Serging and overlock stitches look complex, but they are super easy to remove. Easy to follow video guide to unlock the secret. Don't just pull!
Introduction to Sergers ✓ Step by Step Guide on Overlockers for Beginners ✓ Tools, Threading, Settings explained ► Start your first Project now!
Learn the 8 different types of serger stitches you can do. Included: close-up stitch photos & beginner-friendly descriptions.
We have all come a long way in our Serging 101 series! In case you missed out on any of the previous serging posts, we have already covered how to set up your serger, how to thread for rolled hems, how to thread for seams, and a few other posts in between. And now today we're going to learn how to serge with knits! One of the things I love about sewing with knits is that they don't fray, so it's not absolutely necessary to serge the edges. However, I have four boys and I'd like their clothes to get a lot of use, so I tend to serge my edges for extra durability. I also sew all of my seams with a sewing machine before serging. It takes just a bit more time and makes them a lot more sturdy. So that two-step method is what I'll show you today! First, the sewing machine. When I sew with knits on my sewing machine, my favorite stitch is the "lightning bolt" stitch, as I like to call it, that you can see circled above. It gives a really strong stitch while still allowing the knit to stretch when it's worn. Please notice that the one I circled is NOT the same thing as a standard zigzag stitch, shown as #10 above. You can use the zigzag on knits too but the finish isn't as nice. My second favorite stitch for knits is the #18 stitch above. It is a straight stretch stitch (at least on my machine) and gives a sturdy stitch but doesn't allow quite as much stretch as the lightning bolt, so it might cause problems with puckering. It is great if the lighting isn't available on your machine though. One thing to note with the lightning bolt stitch is that it does start out strong so it might pull your fabric down with the initial stitches if you're right on the edge of the fabric. I like to start down about 1/8" and that seems to solve the problem. Alright, on to sewing! After sewing the seam with the lighting bolt stitch, your seam will look like the one above! Now you're ready to serge! On my Brother 1034D serger, I set my tension dials all to 4, as you can see in the photo. For your machine you may need to adjust the dials based on the recommendations in your user's manual. For the settings on the side of my machine, I put the first dial at 1.0 if I'm using a low-stretch knit, or up to 2.0 if I'm using a super stretchy knit. The second dial I put at a 4, and the third dial I put just above a 5. I also make sure my knife is engaged. Again, your settings may be a bit different but these work great for my machine. To begin, put the presser foot down and chain off a tail, as shown above. Then line up the edge of your fabric with the appropriate seam allowance. Mine is 3/8" and is marked by the red arrow in my photo. With the presser foot down, begin serging. Be careful not to pull or stretch the fabric as you go because it will cause puckers in knit! Notice that the knife is cutting off the excess fabric where the yellow arrow is pointing. That reminds me of another reason I always sew before serging! Anybody who has accidentally left a pin in the fabric can tell you that when a pin hits the knife blade of the serger it is NOT GOOD! That is a mistake I won't make more than once! I like to have my edges sewn and pins removed before getting anywhere near my serger. As you serge your outfit, if you come to a curve don't panic! Just gently guide the fabric through at a gradual curve. Think about how you drive around a curve in a car - gradually and smoothly, using the line as your guide. When you get to the end of your fabric, simply serge off the edge of it, forming another tail. Cut the threads and you're done! You should now have a neatly serged edge. I aim to have my serger stitching very close to, but not quite on top of, my sewing machine stitches. Now if I stretch out the seam, no threads show through on the outside of the fabric! It is a secure seam that is ready to stand up to a lot of rough-housing from my boys! Aren't these adorable? I love this Space Invader knit I got from Misty over at BWD Fabric and Supplies. This was my first time ordering from her and the quality is fantastic -- not to mention the super adorable prints she has in knits, such as Jack Skellington, Minnie Mouse, and right now she's taking pre-orders for Alice in Wonderland! I have several more of hers that I have in my stash for future blog posts and I can hardly wait! But first I'm going to finish up this super cute outfit I started. Any guesses on what I might be making to coordinate with these little guys? Let's Create! ~ Kristen
How To Sew A Neck Band Into A Stretch Garment. I used to have real trouble until I discovered this foolproof method. Find out more here.
A blog about serging, overlocking, sewing, and other handmade crafts for house and home.
This sewing basic tutorial will teach you how to sew a gathering stitch for perfect ruffles every time.
In this article I want to talk about serger needles. There are so many questions people ask about serger/overlock needles: What Needles Can Be Used With a Serger? Do Sergers need special needles? Are serger needles different? And it’s understandable - sergers/overlockers can be pretty intimidating. So let me try to explain in detail everything you need to know about serger/overlock needles.
Introduction to Sergers ✓ Step by Step Guide on Overlockers for Beginners ✓ Tools, Threading, Settings explained ► Learn more about Sergers today!
Looking for an easy way to finish raw fabric edges without a serger? In this presser foot guide you will find answers to these questions
Overlocker tension. Why is my stitching loop-y? Know how to diagnose and correct thread tension problems on an overlocker.
How to Sew a Flatlock Stitch on your Serger or Overlocker - Flatlock Hem with Serger - Melly Sews
I’ve been asked how to do this by a few people so I thought it was about time I took a few pictures and made up a tutorial. Overlockers are great for seams, especially on knits, but if you don’t secure your threads, they can come undone. There are a few different ways of doing...Read More »
Learn how to adjust serger tension on your overlocker needles and loopers for a perfect overlocked seam finish.
Learn the 8 different types of serger stitches you can do. Included: close-up stitch photos & beginner-friendly descriptions.
I review the Husqvarna Huskylock S15 serger / overlocker. Find pictures & videos of it here. I also say whether I recommend buying it or not (HINT: not really!)
More Learn to Sew Tips and Techniques: Before there were sergers, people who sewed knew how to Finish Seams without a Serger. Learn How to Finish Seams.
Learn the 8 different types of serger stitches you can do. Included: close-up stitch photos & beginner-friendly descriptions.
Serger tension can be tricky for the beginner sewist. But with a little bit of clarity, you’ll know exactly how to turn those dials or knobs to achieve the perfect tension for all of your sewing projects.
Like Jess, I can tell you I am extremely intimidated by sewing with a serger. I'm fairly comfortable sewing with a basic machine but deciding to jump into a project with my serger was entirely out of my element. I'm a big planner and I feel relatively okay doing new things with the wealth of information you can gain by spending a few hours online. Learning the serger has not been so easy. I want to say I read the manual and then immediately started sewing but that wasn't the case. Before I get to an actual project I thought it would be helpful to explain the basic functions of a serger. As you may already know, I received my serger as a birthday gift. My mom bought me a Singer Professional 5 that came with 6 additional presser feet. I was excited and then instantly thought, "wait, what can I do with a serger?" After a lot of reading and no sewing (yet), I think I know what my serger can do. Double Chain Stitch suitable for straight seams also used for decorative chainstitch topstitching effect Double Chain Stitch Two-thread wrapped Edge Overlock (narrow) provides an elegant fine finish to lightweight fabrics when using clear threads the fabric appears to have an invisible edge gives a couture effect and looks beautiful on finer fabrics Two-thread Wrapped Edge Overlock (narrow) Two-thread Overedge (narrow and wide) used as a lightweight seam finish or a lightweight seam less thread is used and does not imprint on the right side of fabric when pressed creates less bulky seams (ideal for sheer or lace fabrics) Two-thread Overedge (narrow and wide) Three-thread Overlock (narrow) most commonly used because of its versatility provides professional seam finish to woven fabrics beneficial in preventing loosely woven fabrics from unraveling offers unlimited decorative capabilities recommended for finishing seams but not reinforcing the seam Three-thread Overlock (narrow) Three-thread Flatlock (narrow and wide) used decoratively to achieve the look of applied trim special decorative threads are used for a textured and dramatic effect also used to serge non-bulky seams Three-thread Flatlock (narrow) Three-thread Flatlock (narrow) Three-thread Flatlock (narrow) Three-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety stretches with the fabric, seam will not break when fabric is stretched ideal for super-stretch knits like those used on swimwear or athletic clothing Three-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Four-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety stronger than the Three-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety stitch the additional thread provided added strength to the seam (good choice for knits and wovens) works well when applying ribbing to garment (often seen on cuffs, collars, and waistbands) Four-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Four-thread Safety Stitch alternative to the Five-thread Safety Stitch offers same type of Two-thread Chainstitch used when sewing a medium weight woven fabric because the stitch is less bulky Four-thread Safety Stitch Five-thread Safety Stitch (wide) combination of a Two-thread Chainstitch and Three-thread Overlock stitch Suitable for woven fabrics and provides a durable seam for heavy weight fabrics (denim) Five-thread Safety Stitch (wide) Five-thread Safety Stitch (narrow) same benefits as Five-thread Safety Stitch (wide) Five-thread Safety Stitch (narrow) Cover Stitch (narrow) often seen in ready to wear garments two needles crate parallel rows of topstitching and one looper sews an edge finish on underside Cover Stitch (narrow) Cover Stitch (wide) same benefits as Cover Stitch (narrow) Cover Stitch (wide) Triple Cover Hem professional and creative triple topstitch three needles create parallel rows of topstitching and one looper sews an edge finish on underside ideal for heavier fabrics traditionally used in home decorating adds unique accent for garment constructions Triple Cover Hem Three-thread Rolled Hem used to finish edges of scarves, ruffles, table linens, and some garments suitable for lightweight to medium weight fabrics used for pintucks Three-thread Rolled Hem My serger came with a beading foot (used for sewing on beads, sequins, pearls, and thick cord), a blind hem foot (used for hemming skirts, paints, and other sewing projects in one easy operation), a cording foot (used for sewing piping betwe3en two layers of fabric in one easy operation), an elastic foot (used for inserting elastic into a seam), a shirring foot (used for shirring and gathering), and a taping foot (used for inserting a tape into seams that will stretch easily). Now that I know just what I can do with my serger, I'm excited to start sewing! This week I'll be using my favorite Lil Blue Boo patterns to make some spring clothes for my daughter.
In this post, I will tell you the secret shortcut to change serger threads on your Overlock/ Serger Machine quickly and without errors.
This helpful serger guide was submitted by Sarah from Sewing Parts Online. If you're ever in the market for a special sewing foot, pedal, bobbin, instruction manual, etc. be sure to check out their website. They even have parts for older machines like mine. Sarah hooked me up with some great darning feet! And now she's been kind enough to share this amazing guide with us. Enjoy! ... Learning all the new options a serger brings into your sewing life is a challenging and rewarding experience. I know most of us are intimidated by just the appearance of a serger, let alone figuring out what heck you can do with it! However, with a little time and patience, your serger will add all whole new perspective to your sewing. Successful sewing relies on a great community we all make together, so if you know any special tricks or have a few questions, leave them in the comment section below. Someone may have the same question or your trick might save us all a little more time! Firstly, mentally prepare yourself for a little confusion. When you're learning new serging techniques, you will find yourself adjusting, rethreading, crying, readjusting, switching needles...it's a lot to take in. This is because, just like a conventional machine, your setting have to be altered to fit different stitches, fabric, and thread weight...x4 (or x3 or x2 depeding on your stitch, but we'll get to that later). It takes time, but it does get easier and is well worth it! Secondly, give yourself time to really experiment with your serger before starting any projects. Trying to complete a project and compute all your serger settings will more than likely overwhelm brain circuits and cause spontaneous combustion. For me to understand my serger, I used my manual, library books, and surfed the internet to create a Serger Scrapbook. I tried out each stitch and different techniques one at a time. Once I had a stitch or technique done correctly, I glued the fabric swatch in my scrapbook, recorded all my settings as well as some tips and adjustments for different threads. Because there is so much to learn, having a scrapbook is an easy and fast way to recall information. While learning, I would limit myself to a couple hours of serging at any one time and just walk away when you feel the urge to break something. Give yourself time to learn in a stress-free environment and don't judge yourself if you mess up. It gets better! A few things to remember: Use good quality thread. Back away from the bargain bin; it will only end in tears. Sergers have fast moving parts and inferior threads cannot keep up. Maxilock and Toldilock are great options. Do whatever you can to ensure the thread is feeding evenly and consistently off the spool. Any wiggling will cause hiccups in your stitch. I have had to stuff my thread spools to secure them tightly. The thread nets are also very helpful. Use the Stitch Finger as a guide for sewing. Keeping an eye on the Stitch Finger (or the needle when the Stitch Finger is on R) will prevent the material from getting wrapped around the Upper Looper. Love thy Tweezers! I literally cannot thread my machine without tweezers. Tweezers also help if you are trying to detangle thread that wraps up where it shouldn't. Keep those pins far, far away from the cutting blade and the needles. You know how on your conventional machine you can get away with sewing over a pin or two? Not on your serger. You can always use basting spray to secure your fabric. If you must use pins, place them three inches away and parallel to the blade. Oil every 15 hours of serging and dust frequently. That cutting blade makes one heck of a dust pile. If a thread breaks in the upper or lower loopers, I rethread both of them in order just to be safe. Remember to keep your manual handy. I know we all hate trying to read manuals, but they really are a helpful reference. Here we go! Construction A four Thread Overlock stitch is ideal for constructing your projects. It'll finish the edges and hold your fabric securely. This is your basic starting point. You can serge in twill tape or ribbon into the seam to prevent stretch (like in shoulder seams). However, I recommend reinforcing heavy activity areas of clothing on your sewing machine after you have serged (like the crotch area of your pants). I have felt the wrath of not securing this area on a conventional sewing machine...in public. Settings for four Thread Overlock on Muslin using Regular Serger Thread: Left Needle- 5.5 Right Needle- 5.5 Upper Looper- 4.5 Lower Looper- 4 Length- 2 Differential- 1.0 R or S- S Blade- Engaged (Can you spot the spelling error? Thank goodness for spell check!) Corners Serging an outside corner is basically serging a straight line. You can't pivot the material as you would on a conventional sewing machine. You simply serge a 3 inch chain past the end of the fabric, lift the needle and presser foot, and reposition your fabric to serger another straight line. The ends of the chain get secured in the stitch. Serging an inside corner requires you to bunch the fabric in to a straight line and serge normally. Don't worry, your fabric won't stay bunched. Try to get your line as straight as possible. Curves The trick to serging curves is all about control. Make sure you have a firm hand on the fabric and are controlling the feed with purpose. Try to slowly serge until you get the hang of it. Circles To successfully serge a circle, you need a starting point. Cut out a one inch long notch in the edge of the circle. The notch depth should be equal to your finished edge. So if I am cutting off 1/4 an inch, my notch will be two inches long, 1/4 inch deep. Just like serging a curve, maintain control of the fabric. You may find it helpful to draw your hem line and follow it as your serger. I always find it helpful to watch the needle(s) as I serger. Flatlocking Consult your maunal and adjust as needed. The trick is to have no tension in the needle and high tension in the loopers. Also, you want to examine your stitch finger and make sure the thread is hanging about 1/8 an inch past the edge of the fabric to ensure the fabric will lay flat when pulled. I especially love flatlocking with nylon thread in the upper looper. Here are my settings for three Thread Flatlocking with Nylong thread (on muslin fabric): Left Needle- 4 Right Needle- - Upper Looper- 5 Lower Looper- 9 Length-2 Differential- 1.0 R or S- S Blade- Disengaged We see flatlocking often on active wear, but it also adds a great decorative element. With the wrong sides of the fabric together, you get the serging stitch in the right side of the fabric. But if you serge with right sides together, you will get a cool ladder stitch on the right side of the fabric. This is great for weaving in ribbon or yarn or beads. Spread or Two-Thread Converter Talk about a great way to save thread! A spreader, also known as a two Thread Converter, fits into the upper looper, making it think it's working when it's not. The same technique for sewing a three thread flatlock applies to sewing a two thread flatlock. Remember to let the fabric hang over. I find it most accurate to follow the stitch finger as I serger. I aim to have the edge of the fabric meet with the inside edge of the stitch finger. I keep my eyes glued to that and I get the best results. Inserting Spreader (Pardon my dust) Settings for two Thread Flatlock using a Spreader (serger thread and 100% medium weight cotton fabric): Left needle- - Right needle- 1 Upper Looper- Spreader Lower Looper- 5 Length- 2.5 Differential- 1.0 R or S- S Blade- Disengaged Rolled Edges Rolled edges are so beautiful! Especially with decorative threads and on lovely sheer fabrics! Rolled hems are the stitch of choice for light-weight decorative fabrics, but require a few extras to be successful. Regarless of the stitch width, I recommend using some form of stabilizer on the lighter fabrics. You can use water soluble stabilizer or ribbon. I have actually heard of people using plastic wrap to secure the stitch of super delicate material. If you don't have any stabilizer available, you can simply fold the edge on itself and serger. You just need to go back and trim the extra fabric that's left over. Settings for Rolled Hem on Muslin using regular serger thread: Left Needle- - Right Needle- 3 Upper Looper- 9 Lower Looper- 9 Length- F Differential- 1.0 R or S- R Blade- Engaged Settings for Rolled Hem with Nylon Thread on Muslin: Left Needle- - Right Needle- 2 Upper Looper- 2 Lower Looper- 5 Length- 2 Differential- 1.0 R or S- R Blade- Engaged Remember, you will have to adjust your settings to accommodate for fabric weight and the type of stabilizer you use. Gathering You can buy a Gathering Foot for your serger, but it can be done with the general purpose foot, it just needs a little tweaking. I found I get the best definition using lighter fabrics, but you can increase the volume of your gathers by simply manually pulling on the needle thread after you have serged. Settings for Gathering with Nylon Thread: Left Needle- 5 Right Needle- - Upper Looper- 4 Lower Looper- 3 Length- 4 Differential- 2.0 R or S- S Blade- Engaged You can adjust the width as you please. Lettuce Edges A lettuce edge is an awesome decorative edge! You will get the best results from ribbed knits because they have a great stretch and bounce back quality. I tried a lettuce edge on other knits and wasn't pleased with the results nearly as much. The trick is to stretch the material from front to back as much as you can. Really pull on the fabric to get a great lettuce effect. You aren't going to hurt your machine. Slowly sew until you get the hang of it. Keep a firm grip and control the fabric. Settings for Lettuce Edges on Ribbed Knit using Embroidery Thread: Left Needle- - Right Needle- 2 Upper Looper- 2 Lower Looper- 6.5 Length- 2 Differential- 0.7 R or S- R Blade- Disengaged Making Waves There are a couple of ways to make your stitches look like waves. To create a wave look within your stitches and the create a wave effect with multiple rows of stitches. Wave Illusion within the Stitch: If you own a Babylock machine, you have a wave stitch built in. For the rest of us, you will need to do it manually. First, start with your manual's recommended settings for a three-Thread Overlock and make slight adjustments to fit your thread and fabric weight. User your left hand to guide the fabric. With your right hand, loosely hold lower looper thread between your pointed figner and thumb. Count 1-2-3 out loud and sqeeze your finger at the intervals beween each second. So you are literally pinching the thread for a millisecond as it comes off the spool. This takes a lot of practice. I'm still working on my precision. Settings for Manual Wave Stitch on Muslin using Nylon Thread: Left Needle- 5.5 Right Needle- - Upper Looper- 3.5 Lower Looper- 4 Length- 1 Differential- 1.0 R or S- S Blade- Engaged Wave Illusion on Fabric: To create a wave look on your fabric, you serge multiple parallel lines using a shortened three-Thread Overlock Stitch. It looks best when you use decorative thread in the Upper Looper and thread matching your fabric in the Lower Looper. Then, on your conventional sewing machine, you sew a grid of alternating lines that intersect the serged lines. For example, you serge five parallel lines one inch apart. Then you go to your conventional sewing machine (match your thread to the fabric), sew five more parallel lines that cross over your serged line. You alternate the direction you sew to create the wave look. Basically, you are sewing a grid. Settings used on the Serger on medium weight fabric using decorative thread in Upper looper: Left Needle- - Right Needle- 5.5 Upper Looper- 4 Lower Looper- 4 Length- 1 Differential- 1.0 R or S- S Blade- Disengaged Blind Hem Yes, it can be done! This works great in place of a cover stitch on knits. Start with a Flatlock. Adjust your settings to match your fabric and thread. Fold hem to the wrong side of fabric, then back over to the right side of the fabric. For a truely invisible hem, extend the raw edge past the fold and stitch on the extended hem edge (1/4 inch part), allowing the machine to just barely catch the fold. Sew slowly and keep your eye on the needle to make sure it is catching the fabric. Match your needle thread with the color of your fabric. Setting for Blind Hem on muslin using Nylon thread (increase tension in upper looper for regular thread): Left Needle- - Right Needle- 1 Upper Looper- 4 Lower Looper- 4 Length- 4 Differential- 1.0 R or S- S Blade- Disengaged I hope you found this article helpful and good luck with your serger!
HOW TO USE A SERGER: Free eBook SERGER SCHOOL Vol. 1: Serger Basics, Techniques & Tips Learn all about sergers and all that they can do to help your garment sewing. Download a free ebook
Mastering the overlocker, and learning new skills
Like Lorna at http://bangerlm.blogspot.co.uk/2007/01/do-it-yourself-serger-how-to.html I did something unspeakable to my overlocker. Whi...
There are many sewists out there who swear by sergers, and it's no wonder why! Similar to a sewing machine, a serger is used to sew pieces of fabric together, but it does so with a twist. Not only does a serger stitch fabric, but it also cuts off extra fabric and seals in hems with an overlocking stitch, all at once! By using this one-stop-shop machine, you can cut your sewing time in half and produce projects that look professionally sewn. See only some of what you can do with this page full of serger basics and 15+ Serger Sewing Projects! Your stitches will be stronger than if you use a sewing machine and your hems will be protected against fraying. In short, a serger is a godsend for the sewing process. Itching to try out a serger yourself? Whether you want to know more about what a serger is, how to operate one, or to find free serging patterns, this collection has something for you! In this list, you'll find everything from a guide on serging 101 to patterns for couture fall accessories. If you'd like to know more about sergers, read our guide, Is a Serger the Same as an Overlocker? You don't have to scour the internet for serger patterns anymore. We've done the heavy lifting for you so that you can get to sewing designer-level pieces right away. Click any link below, and your serger will do the rest! Plus, we're sharing advice from our readers who use sergers to help you before you buy or as a beginner. Sign Up For More Free Patterns >>>
Looking for an easy way to finish raw fabric edges without a serger? In this presser foot guide you will find answers to these questions
I love the internet! I posted on Facebook to ask the question if there was a quick settings guide for my serger (it seems like I'm always spending more time getting the tension right then actually using the machine!) Most responses were that you need to make one yourself. (Booooo!) But I did find some helpful posts of other bloggers that have the same model and listed their settings. I included the settings and their blog posts on the downloadable and printable chart but you may find that your machine works better at a different tension setting. To download the pretty version with shaded tables, click here! To download a print friendly version, click here! (They are the same....after I made the pretty one I thought maybe people wouldn't want to waste their ink for all the dark gray space!) There's a ton of information out there - my sheet does not give all the details on your machine since my goal was just to have a quick guide available. Honestly, sometimes I feel information overload when I start to read about everything my machine can do! LOL! I just want a pretty finished edge on my garments but maybe one day I can do all the fun bells and whistles! Hope you find it useful!
Do you want a finished overlock stitch for your seams but don't have a serger? Learn how to finish your seams using four different methods.
Master sewing garments with stretch and jersey with these simple garment techniques with an overlocker.
