How to Sew Perfect Scallops. A photo tutorial to help you learn how to sew scalloped edges for the Highland Avenue House.

Stitching in the ditch is a quilting technique, but it’s a good one to know for other sewing projects as well. I don’t use it a ton, but occasionally when I’m making …

This summer dress sewing pattern is inspired by a boho dress I saw on Free People. At full price, I think the dress costs close to $150 to buy, so…

There seems to be some confusion about sewing an inside seam to an outside seam, without puckering one side or the other. I'm posting this, to help all of those…

Stitching lace insertion to fabric is the first technique that we learn when I teach heirloom sewing by machine. This is not a strong application of lace and best used on collars, yokes, or sleeves. Lace insertion is the lace that is straight on both edges. If one side of the lace feels rougher than the other, this is the wrong side of the lace. I have used a contrasting color thread for the photos. Use a fine machine thread that matches the lace and a 60/8 size machine needle. Starch and press the lace and fabric. Using a wash-away marker, mark the lace placement lines on the fabric. Set the sewing machine on straight stitch length of 2.0 and stitch close to the edge of the lace down both sides. I prefer to stitch from top to bottom each time to prevent the fabric and lace from distorting. Turn the fabric to the wrong side, and carefully cut the fabric between the stitching lines, being careful not to cut the lace. Press the fabric away from the lace. On the right side of the fabric, using a zigzag stitch of 2.0 width and 0.7 length, stitch over the previous stitching line. The stitch should "zig" into the lace and "zag" into the fabric. On the wrong side of the fabric, using blunt scissors, trim away the excess fabric. Starch and press the fabric and lace before continuing with your garment. I first started doing heirloom sewing about 15 years ago while doing custom sewing for "Joy's of Smocking" in Decatur, AL. I still love working with lace and fabric!

Now, I promised to write this tutorial to show my Mum how I applied this finish to her top… and others expressed an interest too; thank you so much to everyone else who did… I finally did it, yay 😉 Mostly I would use this…Read More→

"Every child who sews with a will should have a wee birdie to help with his bill."I have long been fascinated with some of the clever inventions of the past, the sewing bird being one of them. The sewing bird, also known as a sewing clamp, hemming clamp, or third hand, was used in the 18th and early 19th centuries to attach one end of a piece of cloth firmly to a table to enable the seamstress to hold her sewing taut with one hand while stitching with the other.(Image Source) Commonly used in the Victorian home, this third hand clamps to a table while the beak holds the fabric to be sewn. Depressing the tail releases the beak enabling the fabric to be repositioned or removed. Before the invention of the sewing machine, clothing, sheets, and other household items were sewn by hand, this handy little clamp was often used for hemming. (Reproduction Sewing Bird for sale at Victorian Trading Company) Early clamps can be traced to the late 17th century. The "sewing bird" came into fashion early in the 18th century. Invented in the Georgian period in England, it was the first device that allowed the material to be moved without having to loosen the clamp. Many were made for the travel trade and were used for advertisements. Most were made of polished and turned wood or iron. Victorian clamps were made of brass, iron, steel and painted wood. (Image Source) In America the first sewing birds were called "grippers." Not used widely until mid-19th century, they became popular as a luxury item, which a young man would present to his intended bride months before the wedding. These were made in many varieties; birds with or without a pin cushion, on a spindle or not, deer, dogs, fish, frogs, snakes, dolphins, cherubs and people. Small thread winders, spool holders, netting hooks and rug braiders were also common. (Antique Sewing Bird) After the invention of the sewing machine the need for grippers was diminished but they were still manufactured as novelties. The Singer Sewing Machine Company produced a few as late as 1980. These original inexpensive novelties of yesteryear are expensive antique collectibles today. (Reproduction Sewing Birds sold at My Secret Shelf) I have seen these marvels in antique stores but don't actually own one, however, I had a need for making my own version of a "sewing bird". I found myself frustrated at always have to run to my sewing basket while crafting when I needed a handy pin, needle, or thread. I began my solution with a faded pale blue feed sack, an old cork/metal bottle stopper, and a vintage iron receipt holder found at a flea market... I sketched a little bird body, tail, and wings onto the feed sack with a Mark-B-Gone marker adding detail lines to the body, tail, and wings, which I then stitched over in brown embroidery floss... After the pieces were stitched together and stuffed, I removed the marker lines with a damp cloth and then used Fabri-tac to attach the tail and wings... I used a strong glue (E-6000) to glue the bottle stopper to the bottom of a small purchased twig and moss nest... And then I glued the bird into the nest, tacking the wings to the sides of the nest... I slipped spools of thread onto the receipt holder and pushed the cork bottle stopper down onto the sharp tip of the holder, then filling my sewing birds nest with needful supplies, like a mini scissor tucked under one wing (These were a gift from my sweet friend Pam and they are so sturdy and cut so well)... A large needle and thimble under the other wing... Pins and needles perch on the back of the bird... A little surprise pocket in the tail conceals a needle threader (I hate to admit that my eyes are just not what they used to the and I actually need one of these now!)... Here is my new sewing bird sitting on the worktable and all ready for service with no more running to the sewing basket! (For more great sewing ideas visit http://topreveal.com/diy-sewing-craft-ideas) They say that necessity is the mother of invention. I truly believe that and I am very happy with how my little version of a handy and helpful "sewing bird" turned out. "Sew", if you could create a needful invention to solve one of your problems, what would it be? ""Blessings, Miss Sandy

Our Wrap + Turn Short Rows Tutorial guides you through this simple technique so you can shape your knitting with ease and confidence!

Simplicity 7157 Misses Costume Undergarments Turn of the Century to 1925 Vintage Closet Designer Theresa Nordstrom Size: 6 - 8 - 10 - 12 But: 30 1/2 - 31 1/2 - 32 1/2 - 34 Copyright 2002 This pattern is uncut and factory folded. The envelope has tattering and no flap. OR Size: 14 - 16 - 18 - 20 Bust: 36 - 38 - 40 - 42 Waist: 28 - 30 - 32 - 34 Hip: 38 -= 40 - 42 - 44 Copyright: 2002 This pattern is uncut and factory folded. The envelope has tattering and no flap. Purchase includes resealable bag for your pattern's storage and protection. Click on other envelope images for additional pattern details. ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ Click below to view more patterns in my shop: http://www.etsy.com/shop/mbchills

I have a few refashioning projects to showcase this month. One of the things I like about refashioning garments, is that there is usually a story involved. The projects come with a shot of nostalgia. Back in April I previewed a wedding dress I had taken on as a refashioning project. Our bride Jamie really wanted to wear her mother's wedding dress. I don't think she actually liked the dress all that much (and her fiance actively disliked it), but she really liked the idea of wearing something of her mother as she walked down the aisle. Yep, classic 1970's wedding dress: floor length skirt (as opposed to 1960's wedding tea dresses), fitted lace sleeves, high neck lace overlay on top of princess neckline bodice. Jamie's mom looked gorgeous in it: Isn't it funny how context changes everything? The dress looks perfect on Jamie's mom in these photos. I think it's because everything goes together - the hair, the hat/veil, even the flower arrangement. It looks old-fashioned on the dress form, but on Jamie's mom it looks sexy and hip. It's harder to like the dress in a modern context, and it needed some help to work for Jamie. First, even though it had been packed away carefully by a dry cleaner (we had to break the seal to get at it!), it had yellowed a bit in places and was certainly not the bright white color it once was. After researching online, I decided it needed a bath. I removed all the metal bits (buttons, hook and eye, zipper) and soaked it in our tub for 24 hours in cool water. I discovered that our tub will not hold water for that long, so I had to add more water every few hours. This may have helped as the dirty water was replaced by clean multiple times during the soak. And it worked!! Before After (with sneak peek of corset back) I have to admit I was surprised by the results - I was worried that I would somehow damage the dress and I didn't expect it to brighten as much as it did. But there was no other way to do it - it's not like I could cut off a piece of the dress to test it! The second step was to remove the lace sleeves and yokes. I carefully removed the lace applique that vined up from the bust and the back, and picked away the mesh from the bodice. Jamie wanted this preserved in case her own daughter someday wants to incorporate it back into a new design. I love imagining what this dress might become in 30 or so years! Back of lace applique Mesh, lace, and inside of bodice For the third step I needed to tackle the straps. I very luckily had a 1/2 yard of perfectly matching silk satin in my stash. I found a pattern with straps and neckline similar to what Jamie was imagining and made a muslin. Jamie came to try it on so we could tweak it for fit and placement. Muslin fitting Pattern pieces for straps/neckline Now it was time to tackle the back closure. The dress was a titch too small, and Jamie loved the idea of a corset back. I follow the blog Fit for a Queen, in which Mrs Mole tells stories of the brides and wedding gowns she tackles in her alterations business - it's both hilarious and informative. I knew she had added corset backs to a number of wedding gowns, so I wrote to her asking for help. And Mrs Mole delivered: she sent me to a step-by-step photo tutorial she had written up for Sew Much Talent AND gave me guidance on where to buy satin cording. I was so pleased I didn't have to try to figure this out on my own!! Loops sewn from cording and Petersham ribbon Snaps to hold modesty panel in place while lacing Modesty panel backed with cotton for support/comfort, boning to stop it from flopping. All laced up! The ribbon is as close to "Cubbie blue" as I could find. Thank you, Soutache! I found this strange, but the dress bodice wasn't lined and it had no boning for structure. I wanted it to have both, so I made an internal corset from the same pattern (Vogue 2237) I used for the wedding dress I made in 2013, and hand stitched this into the bodice. Finally, all that was left to be done was adding back the lace applique and bustling the back for dancing. Jamie's sister under the dress to learn how to tie the bustles! This was a scary process - I was terrified much of the time that I would both ruin Jamie's mother's dress and ruin Jamie's wedding because she wouldn't have enough time to get another dress. I do like taking on these heart-racing projects every now and again, and every time I finish one successfully I have a little more faith in my ability. But it was nice to have some pants to hem when it was all over! And finally, here are some pictures of Jamie from her wedding day in the finished dress (nothing was ruined!). Isn't she a beautiful bride? Her photographer was Brittany Lynn from Brittany Lynn Studios. I love when I get to see dresses in action, and Brittany is good photographer. Getting tied up (I lent my wedding earrings to Jamie so she would have something borrowed.) Congratulations to John and Jamie! I do like getting to be a part of these transformations!

Use a BERNINA sewing machine and Edgestitch foot #10, #10C, or #10D to create a simple One-Piece Facing for any slit type opening in a garment.

(Photograph copyright 2015 by Dan Routh) Still life on the green table.

Sewing with knits can be a daunting experience for someone who is new to them, but it doesn't have to be. As someone who took the plunge as a seamstress awhile ago, I recently acquired a new appreciation for working with knits as a designer. Knowledge is key, so before my first knit pattern is released this week, I wanted to share a little bit about my experience of designing a knit pattern. There is a lot to consider when sewing with knits: types of knits, sergers vs. sewing machines, types of needles, stretch percentage, stretch recovery, cutting knit fabric, etc. I'm going to be focusing mostly on stretch percentage and recovery and will provide links to some great resources that cover the other topics. To be honest, when I've sewn with knits in the past, I never paid too much attention to stretch percentage and recovery, I just sewed with fabrics that I liked. The results were overall quite satisfying, although there were a few patterns that caused me to think "Oooo, the size is a bit off on this one.". Never before did I have the eye opening experience that I had last week when I sewed two samples of the same pattern. A very wonderful group of testers had been sewing up my Stellar's Vest pattern, and sending me their results. Through no fault of their own, the results came back ranging from perfect sizing, to very large. How was this happening, when they were using the same pattern and even the same size? I adjusted the sizes in the pattern, and had another set of testers do a second round of testing. The results were better, but still inconsistent. I figured I had better sew up a couple more samples of my own. I sewed Anja a size three Stellar's Vest in the A-line version with some adorable fabric from L'Oiseau called Deerly Beloved. (Side note - I highly recommend everything at L'Oiseau. The quality and service is absolutely impeccable.) Ok, back to my experience. The vest turned out great…the fit was perfect in the chest, armholes were good, everything about it was comfortable and cute. She wore it immediately and wouldn't take it off until bedtime. The next day, we did a little mother-daughter local fabric shopping (something that is getting more and more fun now that she enjoys selecting her own fabric!). She chose some pretty Michael Miller Blossoms 100% cotton knit. It was a great choice as I wanted something that would match nicely with Tobias' vest. I took the fabric home, pre-washed it (a must with knits), and sewed up another Stellar's Vest during nap time using exactly the SAME pattern pieces I used the day before. Nothing changed other than the fabric. Here was the result: What changed? Did my daughter mysteriously shrink from one day to the next? HA, of course, not! :) But the second garment is a full two sizes too big! This is when I realized the importance of not 'winging' the use of my knit fabric. I should've known better, I admit it. But here's the positive that comes out of this experience: I'm hoping to prevent you from making my mistake! The first fabric had a stretch percentage of over 50% and excellent recovery, while the second, around 25% with good recovery. How can you tell with your fabrics? Cut a 4"X4"(10cmX10cm) piece of fabric, fold it perpendicular with the grain line. Download and print this stretch percentage guide with tips for sewing with knits, hold the fabric firmly at zero, and stretch it as far as you can. Alternatively, you can use a ruler using the same principle. Either way, just make sure you do this. It makes a world of difference! DOWNLOAD HERE So now that you know how to determine the stretch percentage, how do you use this valuable information? Well, always read your patterns carefully and only use the fabric type and stretch percentage recommended by the designer. If the pattern does not specify, contact the designer and ask, if possible. Or, don't use your best fabric the first time around. You can size up or down depending on the result of your first garment. Stretch recovery is also very important to consider when sewing with knits. When you stretch your fabric, does it return to its original size and shape? Or is it now a little wider than it was before? You definitely want to use fabric that has a very good recovery. This recovery corresponds with the quality of the fabric, after all, who wants to wear a garment that becomes wider each time it's worn? I also prefer my knit fabrics to have some weight and/or a bit of lycra to give them that extra bit of recovery and avoid flimsy, lightweight or sheer knits. Of course, this all depends on the pattern you are using, so keep that in mind as well. In the photos below, it's clear to see which fabric has better recovery. The top one basically stayed the same width after it was stretched, while the second one returned to its original size. You can also feel a big difference between the two; the top one has a slightly, rough texture, and the bottom is soft and smooth. What I failed to do for my testers, was specify the stretch percentage and recovery needed to achieve the best results with my pattern. Incidentally, the fabrics of all my samples had a stretch percentage 50% or more and very good to excellent recovery until the final floral one. So, I think a logical explanation is that stretch percentage and recovery played a pretty major part in the varied results (especially after the first round of testing). Lesson learned! Here are some other tips I find useful to keep in mind when sewing with knits: Use a stretch or ballpoint needle. The rounded tip passes easily between the knit threads by separating them. Press often. When you sew a seam, and it looks wavy, giving it a good press will more than likely fix the problem. Do not pull or stretch the fabric as you sew. This can create those very wavy seams. There is a time and place for stretching, such as when attaching bindings. Follow the directions in your pattern carefully. Want to read more about using knits? Here are some great resources to help you have a positive experience when sewing with knits: Sewing With Knits (Kitschy Coo) Sewing With Knit Fabrics (sew mccool) Sewing With Jersey 101 (Prudent Baby) Tips for Sewing With Knit Fabrics (Oliver + S) Knits 101 (Shwin & Shwin) Working With Stretch and Knit Fabric (My Pattern Designer) Cutting Knit Fabric (Mad Mim) Ask Dana - No Fear. How to Sew with KNIT Fabrics (Made) I'm so glad to have had this experience so I can pass on what I've learned. Knits can be so fun to work with and great for children's clothing because they can be so comfortable and versatile, but it really helps to know how to use them properly. I can't stress enough how important it is to read through your patterns so you can achieve the results the designer intends for you to have. Never again will I blindly use knit fabric simply on account of the colour or pattern. It's worth the time to test out the fabric first so that you can be happier with the results. If you have any tips or tricks that help you have success with knits, please leave a comment and let us know. Thanks!

Loops is the one accessory you have been waiting for: Simple to knit, interesting to look at due to the use of your two favorite colors, and endless possibilities to wear! Fold it lengthwise and pull one end through one of the loops, and you will have a scarf that doesn’t come off. Put the loops on top of each other with a twist, and you will have a cozy pretty cowl. Put your arms through the loops, and you can wear it as a vest. Place the loops on top of each other and pull it over your head to wear it as an attractive capelet. “Loops” is made out of two skeins of a lovely alpaca yarn that will keep you warm and cozy. The knitting itself is simple and in one piece (no seaming), and instructional videos guide you through the provisional cast-on and joining parts.

The Met, 1897-99 (via) - an excellent start to a fabulous Steampunk ensemble. My favorites are the original gowns that unknowingly have that Steampunk flavor. I haven't been working on my wedding gown. I'm quite terrible and maybe lazy, but I just haven't felt like it.

Crafts, DIYs, food, green living, backyard sustainability

Knit Like a Viking With Nalbinding - How to Do the Oslo Stitch: Nalbinding (also spelled naalbinding, nalebinding, nalbindning and other variants) is an ancient fabric construction technique that predates knitting and crochet by some 2000 years. This video shows you how to do the Oslo stitch, which is the simple…

but this is absolutely how I prepare myself for sewing: How about you? Thanks, mom, for sending this. Off to put my lipstick on!

Have you always wanted to learn to sew? Do you know that you can easily teach yourself to sew? You can! Follow these 5 tips and you can save your family thousands

High rise loose fit pants. The Crew Pants are worked top down and are seamless. They match the other patterns from the Crew series, enabling you to mix and match. Size XS (S) M (L) XL (XXL) Measurements The pants fit a waist measurement of 63-67 (67-72) 72-77 (77-83) 83-89 (89-93) cm Inner leg length: 80 (80) 81 (81) 82 (82) cm Recommended needles Circular needle 4 mm (60 cm) Circular needle 5 mm (60 cm) Accessories Elastic band 4 cm: 63 (68) 73 (79) 85 (91) cm Gauge 18 sts and 25 rows with needle 5 mm in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm The gauge should rather be closer to 19 sts than to 17 sts. Yarn Peer Gynt from Sandnes Garn Color 3021 100 % Norwegian wool (50 g / 91 m) 600 (650) 700 (750) 800 (850) g held together with Tynn Silk Mohair from Sandnes Garn Color 3021 57 % mohair, 28 % silk, 15 % wool (25 g / 212 m) 150 (150) 175 (200) 200 (225) g Yarn substitution 2 strands of Arwetta held together with 1 strand of Tilia, both from Filcolana cover: @krealau

A reference guide on how to sew with knit fabrics. Tips for sewing with knits, along with resources and books about knit fabrics.

The Sobi Belt PDF pattern is a wrapping obi-style belt that wraps and ties at the waist. It can be made to be reversible, and has a video sew-along to help you make it! The Sobi Belt looks great worn with the Sumekko Dress, or any other outfit. Sizes 6 - 22.

This is a digital sewing pattern for a Fan-Skirt or Umbrella Skirt around 1890. The Fan-Skirt or Umbrella Skirt became fashionable around 1890. The simple but versatile cut, features a narrow waistline, flaring out at the hem keeping the balance with the gigot sleeves, fashionable at that time. Skirts were kept simple, to build a contrast with the rich decorated waists. The hem was supported with an extra layer of buckram or other stiff fabrics, cut on the same shape like the hem, or a straight strip pleated into shape. The skirt is fitted around the hips with darts and has a deep box pleat at the center back, hiding the placket. Pockets at the side seams can be made optional. The skirt pattern is suitable as well for day dress as for trained evening dresses. Consider more yardage for a trained skirts and using striped fabrics – see cutting information. Firmly woven and heavy fabrics optionally can be sewn as single layer. Flatline light and soft fabrics like taffeta or sateen at least with a medium weight cotton fabric. To save time and money sticking lots of sheets together, the pattern of the back part comes shortened. Many of my customers made shortened versions of this skirt for everyday wear. The skirt can be worn with or without a corset. Also suitable for steampunk costumes. →→WHAT YOU RECEIVE←← This is a DIGITAL pattern (PDF), you can download both size ranges and languages after payment has been confirmed. The pattern comes with detailed and illustrated sewing instructions in English and German. It is a multi-size sewing pattern, you can choose between Sizes US 8-18 (EU 34-44) and Sizes US 20-30 (EU 46-56). A seam allowance of 5/8" (1,5cm) is included in my patterns. The pattern is ready to be printed out on DIN A4 or US Letter. Format DIN A0 to be printed at a plotter / copy-shop comes with a second email at no additional costs. →→HOW MANY PATTERN PAGES TO PRINT←← The sewing pattern itself consists of: Size US 8-18 (EU 34-44): 30 pages A4/US letter or 1 1/2 A0 Size US 20-30 (EU 46-56): 32 pages A4/US letter or 1 A0 →→PATTERN INFORMATION←← Recommended fabrics: Fashion fabric: (Silk-) taffeta or satin, sturdy fabrics, velvet Lining (optional): light to midweight cotton fabrics Hem interfacing: (hair) canvas, stiff linen fabrics, buckram Yardage: Size US 8-18 (EU 34-44): Fashion fabric: 4.4 yds. 55“ wide (4m 140cm wide) With train (12“ / 30cm): 5.7 yds. 55“ wide (5,2m 140cm wide) Lining: see fashion fabric Hem interfacing: 1-2yds. (1-2m) depending on fabric width Twill tape for hem and waistband: 6yds. 3/4“ wide (6m 2m wide) Hooks and eyes Size US 20-30 (EU 46-56): Fashion fabric: 4.4 yds. 55“ wide (4m 140cm wide) With train: 6yds. 55“ wide (5,5m 140cm wide) Lining: see fashion fabric Hem interfacing: 1-2yds. (1-2m) depending on fabric width Twill tape for hem and waistband: 7yds. 3/4“ wide (6m 2m wide) Hooks and eyes Bustle pad: Fashion fabric: 1 yd. 55“ wide (4m 140cm wide) Batting: 1 yd. 55“ wide (4m 140cm wide) Twill tape 3/8“ (1cm) wide: 1yd. (1m)

This is a digital draft-at-home pattern for a lovely and timeless pair of French panties with a waist yoke and optional ruffles at the leg openings. Fabric: this pattern requires approximately 1 meter (about 1 yard). This is a pattern from a French pattern drafting system fairly similar to the Lutterloh golden rule patterns. You will be able to draft a pattern to your exact size from the miniature pattern template and specially designed rulers. To draft any of these special patterns to doll, children, and adult sizes is easy. Rulers are available to draft the pattern as small as a 5 1/2" bust/hip to as large as a 60" bust/hip and the pattern will be scaled perfectly every time. ALL RULERS ARE INCLUDED AS PRINTABLES WITH THESE PATTERNS. You may also be interested in our collection of lingerie sewing books and resources. Don't have a printer? Not a problem! We offer a printing service Add-on for these patterns. Simply add the printing service to your cart along with this pdf pattern. (You will still need to draft your pattern using the printed tools - we do not offer a drafting service at this time.) The pattern includes basic markings and notches that show you how they fit together, and indications such as dotted lines for cutting on the fold. I have included several pages of drafting instructions that I have translated from the original French personally. The illustrated instructions show you how to easily draw your pattern pieces from the miniature pattern template using your special ruler. These patterns were marketed originally to both home seamstresses and professionals alike and assume that you have a basic understanding of clothing construction. The original patterns DO NOT include any sewing instructions. To sew these, you should have a basic understanding of how pattern pieces should fit together. The pattern pieces are illustrated in such a way that you can see how they are supposed to be sewn to each other. DIFFICULTY LEVEL: These patterns might be a bit difficult for the beginner but an intermediate level home seamstress will most likely have little trouble. For a complete tutorial on drafting your pattern including photos, check out this blog post. QUESTIONS? Check out our draft-at-home patterns FAQ page which included video tutorials! What you will need: Paper (I use large tracing paper but butcher paper, muslin fabric, wrapping paper etc all work great!) Pencil It's that simple! No special tools are required! Measuring band type: Class B If French is your first language and you would prefer a copy of the instructions in French instead, please let me know. I would be happy to send that too!

These well-crafted carry-all and eyeglass cases blend elegance and function. For more knit crafts, get Martha's Guide to Knitting— it’s the exclusive resource for knitters of all skill levels.

Description from designer: From our postbag we know that innumerable kind-hearted people knit my dolls and toys to raise much needed funds for charity and other worthwhile causes. With this charity aspect in mind I have designed The Rainbow Babies as the first new and exclusive free pattern on our website. Ideal as fund-raisers, these sweet Babies are quick to knit and each one only requires 25 grams (less than 1 ounce) of yarn and the same amount of stuffing. The doll measures just 17cm (6.75in) high without the cap. The feet, legs, body and head are knitted in one piece and the ‘babygrow’ garment is part of the doll. The only separately knitted pieces are the arms, cap and scarf. You can make pink or brown Babies, but be sure to choose lovely bright colours for the rest of the design, in keeping with the rainbow theme. For extra play value I have also included a cosy rainbow pocket. Popped inside the pocket, every doll becomes part of the RAINBOW! The pocket measures 8cm by 9cm (3in by 3.5in). With your help I hope the Babies will create a beautiful RAINBOW all around the world.

Beautiful and realistic crochet pigeon. This would make a lovely gift or interior design item for a pigeon lover. Approimately 7 inches tall x 8.5 inches in length. Hand-made by myself in a non-smoking home. The head is worked in a soft wool & silk mix in a lovely gradation of colours. Other parts of the pigeon are in wool, cotton, acrylic and polyester yarns. The pigeon is fitted with safety eyes and filled with polyester. Read more

Skirt "Beatrix" DETAILS - Fabric: 100% thin weight linen (130-150gr/m) Сertificate Oeko-Tex Standard 100 - Two side pockets - Fastens on button and hook - elastic band on the back SIZING are shown in the picture in the gallery If you want to order individual parameters - please choose the options "size" - "Individual" Petticoat "Suffragette" in white or black DETAILS - Fabric: 100% medium-weight cotton - Adjustable by tightening - Production time: 21-28 days Within 3 days after the order, our manager will contact you to clarify the parameters so that your order fits you perfectly. If you do not answer within 3 days, we will sew according to the parameters you initially selected. In case of changing the parameters, when the item has already been sewn, you need to pay an additional 10% to the cost of altering it. Thanks for understanding Production times - 20-21 days. Thank you for understanding If you want to order a larger size or individual parameters - please choose the options "size" - "Individual". Please write your parameters in the comments. DELIVERY Worldwide delivery. Every parcel has a reliable package and is sent by Ukrainian Post The shipping period depends on the country of destination usually it takes: - EU: 5-8 weeks - USA: 4-5 weeks - Canada: 6-10 weeks - South America: 6-12 weeks - New Zealand, Australia, Japan: 6-8 weeks - Other countries: up to 8 weeks If you want to order express delivery, please write to us first. Thanks We can also offer express mail services for an additional fee. To do this, please write to us in private messages. thanks !!! Please note that actual colors may vary depending on your computer and phone resolution and monitor / phone screen color restrictions !!! Also, the color may appear slightly brighter or more saturated because the monitor is backlit, but in reality the fabric is not backlit. Consider this, please Please note - I am not responsible for possible customs taxes that your country takes on parcels. Before ordering, check the maximum amount of goods that can be bought and shipped to your country without customs duty. If the order amount exceeds the amount of customs duty, but you want me to indicate a lower price for the goods - please write to me about this before paying for the order. If you have any questions regarding this item, just message us. Thank you for your attention to our shop!

Treadle sewing machine belt replacement can be a bit tricky, don't let it stop you from using these amazing people powered sewing machines.

Sarah demonstrates how to print the appliqué shapes on the stabilizer and how to use them for machine appliqué.

10 летних нарядов, которые не нужно шить! | thePO.ST

Size: 8"x8" Description: Vintage sewing machine scene in soft pastels A bit of nostalgic still life perfect for a crafty sewing room. Premium acid-free, archival paper, which has a matte finish and will last a lifetime. It will be shipped in sturdy, moisture-resistant packaging. This print is available in other sizes by request. See my Profile for available sizes and prices. http://www.etsy.com/shop_policy.php?user_id=5123158

Augustins no. 22 is a large and nostalgic hair bow, with a wonderfully soft texture. Measurements, ribbon before tied in a bow: approx 70 cm x 6 cm. Gauge : 20 sts x 28 rows = 10 x 10 cm in Stockinette Stitch at needle size 4 mm. Needle size : 2 x circular needles 4 mm (60 cm). Yarn : The ribbon is knitted with 2 threads. 1st thread: Merino, Knitting for Olive (230 m per 50g). 2nd thread: Soft silk mohair, Knitting for Olive (225 m per 25g) Yarn amount: 1st thread: 25g. 2nd thread: 12,5g. Other : 1 elastic hairband. Worked: The ribbon for the bow is knitted in the round in Stockinette Stitch. At each round, decreases are made to shape the ends of the ribbon. To finish the ribbon, the 3-needle bind off method is used, before shaping the bow and attaching the hairband to it.