Chris of Ella’s Craft Creations shares an excellent method for transferring an embroidery design to fabric. In her needlework tutorial, she will show you one of the easiest ways to …
In this video I show you three different ways to transfer embroidery patterns - including super tricky fabrics like black velvet. I mention a couple of products in this video. One is Sulky Solvy. The other is an iron-on transfer pen or pencil. Both are from Sulky and both work really well. But. . .
And the new portion of needlepainting tips has arrived! This time let's take a look at an “alternative method” of long and short stitching! I stumbled upon this method not a long time ago. Frankly speaking, I've never seen it anywhere before (and I've examined quite a number of sources ever since I began stitching) and only accidentally bumped into it in summer, I think. This method was presented as one of the ways for long and short stitching, but, personally, I disagree to an extent and have my own thoughts on this “method”. But let me share the tutorial first and then we will discuss it :) Tutorial To put it simply, in this method you use 2-3 (numbers are debatable, that's just an example) colors of thread to fill a shape in long and short stitch. Then you add extra colors in between the existing rows of colors. So, for example, you can use 2 colors and then add 1 between them. Or 3 colors and add 2 more, each one between the original “foundation” rows. Let's take a closer look to understand better. So, the first thing we do is actually fill the shape with the long and short stitch using “foundation” colors. As you see, the colors here are pretty far from each other in tints, so the border between them is very evident. I already talked about how hues and tints can affect the shading in needlepainting in this post, so check it out if you haven't yet. Next, we need to add a couple of extra colors to the existing long and short stitching, using the tints that fit in between the base colors. Now, a bit of technical side. You know the importance of keeping the same direction when you work long and short stitch, right? So, to not go astray in your stitches, I recommend working a few guidelines first. And then fill in the gaps between the guiding stitches. Now that your stitches are out on the surface and won't be covered by the next row, make sure to vary them well at the bottom. So, here is our first extra row of stitches. I worked the full row with stitches close tight together as I would usually do in typical long and short stitching. But with the second extra row, I just added stray stitches here and there and let them mix in naturally. The reason why I did the two “extra” rows differently, is to show you how the surface of the stitching looks after adding them. The first extra row now kind of “bulges out”, if you know what I mean. It sticks out and you can see well that the stitches were made on top of the previous layer of stitching. While the second “extra” row lies flat and doesn't stick out in any way. Here's the final result. Let's discuss As it is one of the “methods” of long and short stitching, I felt the need to speak about it. But truth be told, I don't see any real value in it apart from a few occasions. Mainly, when you have a difficult shading project in your mind and you know what the “base” colors would be, but you are still not sure about the additional finer hues you're going to add. Like in painting, when you lay some base colors and then add more and more brush strokes carving out the details. But even in such cases, it is probably more of the situation with the second extra row, where you add some stitches randomly here and there to enrich the palette and smoothen the blending. Which, again, I can hardly call an “alternative long and short stitch method”. Just a simple side technique. Otherwise, if you already know the colors you are going to use, if you have the map of shading planned in your head, I would NOT recommend using this method. The cons are: The extra rows you work will probably stick out. It will be difficult to maintain the direction of stitches through all of the rows. If you went just a little astray in your second and third rows of the “foundation”, it still might be not as noticeable. You can let it slide. But if a new row comes in between the two when they are already not perfectly aligned, it's going to make things look chaotic. Lastly, you simply waste your thread? Why would you need to make longer rows of “base” colors which will be later covered, if you can just go row by row in a more organic way and spend exactly as much thread on each row as necessary. Sorry if this post was not as helpful as you'd expect and doesn't have any new tips. But if you look closely, you can draw some useful conclusions from this article for your needlepainting! I guess the main tip of this post would be to pass by unnecessary “alternative methods”, haha. Not all of the alternative methods are useless, though! Just try things out and analyze, think whether this or that technique is worth it. I was pretty excited to discover this method because I've never met an “alternative way” of long and short stitching. But as I tried it, I realized why it was my first time hearing about that and why I've never seen it before, haha. Or another casual tip: try to maintain an even surface of your long and short stitching by avoiding throwing in a “patch” of closely situated new stitches on top of the existing ones. Maybe my images don't reflect it that well, but when stitches bulge out it is really visible and spoils the smoothness of shading. Okay, I promise to make the next post contain the real tips! Meanwhile, share if you have any troubles or questions about long and short stitching and needlepainting. If I haven't written about it before, I might make a post to help you solve it!
Have you ever wondered what are the steps for transferring embroidery designs? You have your lovely new pattern, you are excited to get started but – oh heck – how do you actually trans…
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As you probably know, I am very fond of the embroidery technique called long and short stitching, and I hope more and more people fall in love with it and see that it is actually not that scary and not that hard. Well, it is not that easy either and it requires some time and patience to get friendly with it. But it is totally worth it, isn't it? By today I actually have plenty of material on this blog about long and short stitch as well as needle painting. So I decided to gather it all up in this post for easy access! Save it to Pinterest or your browser bookmarks because if I ever write something new on the topic of needle painting or long and short stitch, I will be adding it here :) Long and short stitch tutorial Let's start with the basics. I recommend you going to the long and short stitch tutorial and trying to replicate every step from there. There are some tips at the end of the post, so make sure you check them out as well. Personally, I believe the two crucial points for your long and short stitch to take off are: keeping a consistent direction of stitches varying the "levels" where you start your stitches When there is a certain inconsistency in the direction of your stitches, it usually stands out and breaks the general “flow” of your stitching. Unless, of course, you make a conscious decision to break that flow for a certain artistic purpose. As for the second point... In my personal opinion (which kind of differs from many other artists) is that it is not the length of the stitches per se that should be varying. But rather, the “levels” at which you start the stitches. And this is something I have learnt on my own and found it much easier, to be honest. I speak about it in more detail in my online needle painting course since it is easier to explain in the video while actually showing you how it works. But in short, you can, in fact, keep the length of your stitches the same or they can end at the same level. It doesn't really change anything. The most important is where you start these stitches. And for your blending to be smoother, you need at least 2, but better 3-4 “levels” where you start these stitches. And then make them as long as you like, just make sure they end significantly below the mark for the next row (I will link a separate post on that below, called “getting your rows right"). Now, suppose you already worked the little petal from the tutorial. Congratulations if yours looks the same! If it doesn't that's totally fine, we all need some time to reach that point. I mean, I wrote that tutorial not at the beginning of my embroidery journey, you know what I mean? But let's be real, an exercise like that is quite an isolated practice. The real questions and issues will arise when you actually use it in your practice. And for your practice to go smooth, I have prepared a series of needle painting tips that I will also list below. Long and short stitch practice If you need some ideas on where to actually get this long and short stitching practice while not feeling too lost, I have several Stitch Alongs already completed and ready for you to start whenever you want! The benefit of these Stitch Alongs is that you have detailed step-by-step pictures for virtually every stage of working a design so the visual support is quite strong. (By the way, if you have any suggestions for a new Stitch Along, feel free to drop your ideas in the comments) I will list all the current Stitch-Alongs from this blog in the order of difficulty (from the easiest to the toughest): Cecelia Rose Trish Burr's Pansies Trish Burr's Magnolia If you want more guidance in your learning and prefer video material over pictures, make sure to check out the Needle painting for beginners course. There we work special exercises imitating various realistic situations you can encounter in long and short stitching and all of the material is presented in detailed video lessons. Long and short stitch tips And, like I said, while you start practicing your long and short stitching, inevitably, there will be new questions and confusing moments. I'm trying to cover them little by little and I made a special tag for these posts: needle painting tips. You can go to the tag and check them out there, but for better convenience, I will list all of the posts here (and I will be adding the new ones here too, that's why I encourage you to save it): Color blending tips (color theory and case study on which color combinations work better) Leaves practice (another case study on color combinations) Levels of long and short stitch (a case study on the “levels” of starting your stitches) Diagonal shading (step by step guide) Shading in patches (step by step guide) Shading on shading, is it worth it? (contemplating on one of the ways of multiple-row long and short stitching and looking at the pros and cons) Must watch Youtube tutorials (I wonder if you noticed how much I LOVE visual learning) Importance of correct direction (a case study with examples and tips) Filling a shape with long and short stitching (it can be used as a filler in a solid color too) Secret behind getting your rows right (how to make sure that your rows will correspond to the pattern) Youtube video of a process More layers = better shading? (does the number of rows and colors affect the result of your shading?) So here's your guide! I know this pile of information can be overwhelming but don't get discouraged, okay? Just learn it step by step and continue your practice. You will reach your goal as long as you move even if it is an inch a day. And, most importantly, enjoy! :)
·˖𓆩𓁺𓆪˖· Angels Fly Hoodie ·˖𓆩𓁺𓆪˖· Starry halos surround this biblically accurate angel who has a message for you: y̸̪̒͛o̶̳͓͚̝̺͊̆̽̿û̶̗̯͈̙̜̰͗'̸̛̤̬̬̙̳̻̊̓͋l̴͍̱̾͐͋͛́͝l̴̖͖͚̜͊ ̷̡̦̺͆b̴̹̯̮͎̫̳̎e̶͎̭̗͉͋̒́̐ͅ ̷͕͍͍͙̠͙̇̇̋̋̑o̷̩̭̜̿́́͝k̸̲̬͎̎̏ All designs are original, and all embroidery is done at home with my embroidery machine. The pictures show the design on hoodies in the colour 'dark charcoal' in a size Large. You can choose to have extra embroidery on the sleeves, this costs £5 - You can choose any lyric or quote you like - The space available is a 12cm circle, and the shorter the phrase, the bigger the text - Text will be yellow, unless you choose another colour from the design - Text will be on the right sleeve unless you specify the left sleeve - Text will be the same lower case font as in the design Sizing - If you're between sizes or unsure, measure a hoodie you own that you like the fit of (whilst laid out evenly on a flat surface) across the chest and from shoulder to hem, and compare these measurements to the exact size of the actual hoodies, shown in the size chart. It has a unisex fit. Processing time - 1-2 weeks, since they're made to order and I need to factor in time taken for the clothes to arrive to me from the manufacturer. If you need this for a specific date, please let me know in a note at checkout! Postage - International orders are tracked and signed as standard. If you're ordering more than one item from my shop, I'll combine shipping and refund any shipping overcharges after check out. Care Instructions - Wash at 30℃ with similar colours. Do not bleach, tumble dry or dry clean. Cool iron on reverse. Re-shape while damp. Sustainability and Ethics - 🌿 The hoodie is from Continental Clothing. It is made of 100% certified GOTS organic cotton, by workers paid a living wage, in a factory in India which uses green renewable energy, making the carbon footprint of manufacture 90% lower. 🌿 The viscose embroidery and bobbin thread is produced under European environmental standards in Germany, from sustainably sourced trees, by Madeira. 🌿 Because they are made of plant-based materials, they are vegan and biodegradable, so will not contribute to plastic pollution after use (a huge environmental issue associated with blended polyester fabrics). 🌿 Plastic-free shipping - I use strong recyclable and biodegradable paper mailing bags.
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No tracing!! See the easiest way for how to transfer embroidery patterns without any tracing. Print, stitch, wash away - click through to see it in action.
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Stitch Trish Burr's Pansies in this stitch along. We tackle all the hurdles of needle painting together!
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Serena García Dalla Venezia's work originates from an interest in handcrafts and is carried out in a patient and laborious process. It uses the sum of gestures that are repeated and prolonged through time in order to transform materials as simple as fabric and thread into large sculptural a
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I'm teaching a Free Motion Quilting class starting in April at my LQS, Heartstrings and Heirlooms. I finished up the class sample over the weekend. In the class the students will do larger samples, but I needed a small book of designs to advertise the class. As you can see in the above end view, I used three different types of batting for my sample book - Quilter's Dream 100% Cotton, Hobbs 80/20 (80% cotton and 20% polyester), and a 100% wool. I used a tutorial from a recent Quilting Arts Magazine issue (the February/March 2014 issue) to make my little book. The instructions involved drawing some lines on a piece of fabric, then sewing on the lines with a walking foot to make a larger sheet and baste the layers together. Then you quilt your designs and cut the "pages" apart. The tutorial in the magazine was very good. If you are interested in making a book like mine, I suggest you get a copy of the magazine. Below is a collage of designs I plan to cover in the class. Along the top of each page I wrote the name of the design, the batting type and page number from the book I will be using for the class. In case you are interested, I'm using the book Free Motion Quilting with Angela Waters. It has become my go-to book for quilting ideas as of late.
It’s about time for another pattern roundup post! I love bringing all the indie pattern options for a certain garment type or style together so I can evaluate my options thoroughly. ... Read More
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Ever since my first version of The Hibiscus Robe free sewing pattern, I've wanted to sew ten million more in every decadent fabric I can think of. Ombré charmeuse was dramatic and luxurious, but I can easily imagine cascading chiffon and billowing organza. Maybe even a voluminous faille to turn the robe into a dress? For this redux, I opted for one of my fabric faves: a stunning floral embroidered mesh. From boudoir to bourgeois, this all-lace version of The Hibiscus is sure to bring the drama.
7 ways to make a ruffle, ruffles, 7 ways to make ruffles, ruffle tutorial, how to make a ruffle, making ruffles, ruffle making
Today I'll show you how to stitch a lazy daisy - perfect for making teardrop shapes. Of course they make terrific daisies - like in this robot pattern. I also used a single lazy daisy stitch for the glowing red light at the tip of his antenna. :-) I also used lots of them in
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I am thrilled to have Sarah Vedeler as our November FMQ Expert, for the 2012 Free Motion Quilting Challenge, and deli...
Do you have trouble aligning a left chest design when printing shirts? Learn these quick and easy tips for aligning a left chest design on a shirt. This posts a great "cheat sheet" graphic you can hang by your heat press for reference.
