The two main characters of the famous French painting tale, Gaspard and Lisa, are with us as keychain crochet. You must have seen these two famous characters somewhere in your life. This adorable duo now comes to us as a crochet keychain pattern. Gaspard and Lisa will measure 4.5 cm when completed. Their width will […]
This is a PDF crochet pattern for the Cursed Sweater. This is not a finished product, only digital download of the crochet pattern, no refund if mistaken for finished product. Skill level: intermediate color changing This sweater is completely made-to-measure, as a help to calculate the stitches needed, I attached an excel calculator in the downloads. This sweater is made entirely with single crochet (sc) and sc increase/decrease. Downloadables: - PDF: you can find a color changing chart in 1 and 4 page printables, the written description on how to make the sweater for your measurements (with the help of the excel calculator), instructions on colorwork, assembling, ribbing and blocking. - excel version of the chart - excel stitch/row calculator for your measurements Tools and materials. 4.00 mm (US G-6) crochet hook Stitch markers Darning needle Scissors Blocking mat and pins (optional) Category 3 acrylic yarn - 17 colors used in total My yarn choice: Schachenmayr Bravo Originals The sweater can be made with any acrylic yarn for the same result that has similar features: Material: 100% acrylic Skein weight: 50g / 1.75 oz Skein length: 133 m / 146 yards Category: 3 - light weight Recommended hook size: 3-4 mm / 3-6 US Gauge (10x10 cm): 22 stitches x 30 rows
These ideas of fun ways to teach mitosis are fun for both students and teachers. This list includes some classic ideas and few new modern approaches.
Here's a shot of today's work bench, along with a list of the tasks I hope to complete today.
Create a beautiful crochet floral Bible cover with this easy-to-follow pattern and materials list. Perfect for all skill levels.
The colorful wave stitch designed by MyPicot looks amazing when done in more colors. The open and airy fabric created by this playful crochet stitch is perfect or summer crochet projects Whether you’re looking to make a beautiful crochet summer top, a colorful summer shawl or anything else for warm weather, the colorful Crochet Wave Stitch is sure to inspire some really gorgeous projects.
When it comes to real life, these are the things that you need to vote on...
NO PHYSICAL PRODUCT. Finally, a crochet pattern that can help you sleep at night. The Garlic Throw Pillow is guaranteed to ward off evil vampires in your sweet dreams. It is larger than life and versatile- use it as a long body pillow or take a few garlics out of the bag and share a throw pillow with a friend or two! This is a PATTERN only, purchasing this listing is for a digital file of instructions ONLY. PLEASE refer to the two informational sheets of text in the listing's images for complete details on materials, notes, and skill level needed for this project. The pattern is broken up into three parts: the garlic, the mesh bag to hold them, and the bag tag. The garlic is completely crocheted and stuffed, with pattern instructions for an optional stem and roots. The mesh bag is sewn from fabric. The bag tag is a crocheted tapestry, guided with a graph only (no written instructions). The entire pattern is filled with pictures, diagrams, and videos!
Cookie Cat Crystal Combo powers... ACTIVATE! Click on the images below to go to the corresponding patterns. For more Steven Universe-inspired patterns, visit Etsy and Ravelry. For more Steven Universe-inspired patterns, visit Etsy and Ravelry. * This post contains affiliate links.
Crochet patterns may include crochet abbreviations you don't know. In this post you will find a list of more than 140 crochet abbreviations and terms. Crochet abbreviations are a way to shorten the instructions and words within a crochet pattern. For publications that is often important to reduce the pages a pattern takes up, while in other cases it helps readers get an overview of the instructions quicker without too many words.
Who wants to use up some leftover YARN? I know I have been lately! Today I have a HUGE list of free stash-buster crochet patterns for you!
Link easily to this tutorial in your patterns: www.planetjune.com/join After winning the 2011 Flamie Award for Best Crochet Video (Amateur), I feel a little pressure to make my next videos even better, to live up to that honour, especially as I only started the channel last year and have very fe ...
Video tutorial how to carry an extra color for Tapestry Crochet by Pattern-Paradise.com #crochet #tutorial #colorchange #tapestrycrochet
Are your hats too tight? FIx it with this stretchy crochet ribbing and the free Ultimate Guide to Sizing Hats! Perfect fitting beanies every time!
This list of the Best Free Crochet Apps will get those creative juices flowing, and help to keep them flowing!
Hey there and Happy Friday! Coming at you with an instant gratification project! This project is PERFECT for festival season, markets, gifts and all the things. Continue reading for the free pattern.This beginner friendly project works up in about 10-15 minutes. Don't worry if you've never used the crochet i-cord technique before. It's surprisingly easy! If you can make a chain and draw up a loop, you can make this project!The pattern includes materials list with links, video support and writ
This pattern is for a life-sized anatomically corect human skull, intended to be made as part of my complete anatomical skeleton pattern, the patterns for which I'm gradually releasing - click here for the latest post in this series (you can see the older ones by scrolling to the bottom and clicking 'older posts'). This particular post focuses on the assembly of the skull and you will need to have already created all the bones. I have published these as 3 separate patterns: 1. Mandible and teeth 2. Larger bones 3. Smaller bones The bones required are: mandible, maxillae (left and right), temporal (left and right parts 1 and 2), frontal, occipital, sphenoid (all 3 parts), nasal bone, nasal conchae (x2), vomer, zygomatic bones (left and right), ethmoid bone, and 2 lacrimal bones Difficulty: Medium - difficult The assembly itself shouldn't be too difficult, but I've given it this difficulty level based on the fact that the creation of the bones can be rather challenging. You wiill need: A 1mm crochet hook Rico essentials #10 crochet cotton ain white and silver/grey Polyester toy stuffing A darning needle A pair of scissors Skull bones from each of the 3 patterns linked above. For the skull: First take the zygomatic bones and maxillae. Sew these together as shown in the photos below. Face M of the zygomatic bone should be sewn to face Z of the maxilla. The orbital surface of the zygomatic bone should be folded back and sewn to the top edge of face Z (i.e. the edge where the cast-off sts are located) Sew the nasal bone between the maxillae, as shown in the photos below. The cast-on and cast-off ends of the nasal bone should be sewn to edge N of the maxillae, making sure that it curves up into a bridge shape. You then need to sew the maxillae together by sewing faces M of each bone to each other. You will need to sew along both the top and bottom edges of this face. This shows how the section you've just made intersects with the jawbone. Next sew the vomer between the 2 maxillae, as shown below (the cast-on edge should be at the bottom, sewn to where faces M meet). The curved edge of the vomer (where the sc2tog/sc3tog sts are) should be facing the front of the skull. You now need to sew the nasal conchae to the sides of the nasal cavity, as shown in the images below. Sew the long side adjacent to the corner where you fastened off (circled) to the inside of the nasal cavity, about 1/3 of the way from the base. The piece should be sewn horizontally so that the cast-off edge is closest to the front of the skull. Fold it over and sew the other edge in place - it should form a sort of loop at the front, as shown in the photos below. top-down view After being folded up View from the side You now need to attach the ethmoid bone to the head. First sew the cast-on edge of the perpendicular plate to the top of the vomer (so that the end where you fastened off is pointing towards the front of the head). Then sew the front tip of the perpendicular plate to the centre back of the nasal bone. The dotted line shows the seam between the vomer and perpendigular plate. top-down view Sew the lacrimals to the skull. They should be sewn so that half of them articulates with the back of the nasal bone, and the other half with the maxillae, as shown below. Sew the front edge (i.e. the one closest to the front of the face) of the orbital lobe to the back of the lacrimals, and the lower edge to the maxillae, just behind where you attached the lacrimal bones. The blue line shows the seams between the ethmoid bone (E), lacrimals (L), and maxilla (M) The next step is to attach the frontal bone. Sew the middle section between the eye socket dips to the centre front edge of the nasal bone, as shown below. You then need to sew the end (face F) of each zygomatic bone to the frontal bone, at the outer edge of where the eye socket dips are located. We will now move on to assembling the larger bones of the skull. The images below show which piece all parts of the larger bones connect to. Note that these are intended as guidelines only - it's oka if you find that your bones line up slightly differently to what's indicated below. Frontal = blue Parietals = pink Occipital = red Temporal part 1 = light green Temperal part 2 = dark green Sphenoid=orange Zygomatic = purple Image S (sphenoid) Image T (temporal) Image P (parietal) Image F (frontal) Image O (occipital) Start by sewing the 2 parietal bones together, along the seam shown in pink in image P. You should then sew the occipital lobe to the back of the parietal lobe, sewing along the lines marked in pink in image O and red in image P. The next step is to attach the temporal bones to the parietal and occipital bones, as shown in the images below, attaching the corresponding sides shown in images O, P, and T above. We'll now return to the front section of the skull. Lay out the section you've already made sew that it's facing downwards, as shown below. The first step is to attach the greater wings of the sphenoid. Place them on top of the maxillae, as shown below. The pterygoid plates (circled in yellow) should be sitting flat against the maxillae below the rest of the wing. Don't sew them into position yet. Place the body of the sphenoid between the greater wings, as shown below. The sides of the body should be in line with the botton edge of the felt section on the greater wings. Sew the edge of the felt section of the wings to the base of the tube of the body. This is shown by the yellow lines in the image below. Place the sphenoid back on the frontal section, as shown below. Sew the sphenoid to the back of the skull. Sew the edge of the orbital surface of the sphenoid (where the line of stitching in the middle of the felt is) to the inner edge of the zygomatic bone. The cast-off edge of the orbital surface should then be sewn to the back edge of the frontal bone. Sew the lesser wings to the back of the frontal lobe, as shown in the photo below. You now need to sew the front of the head to the back. Start by positioning the frontal lobe between the left and right perietals, then sew these plates together. Pin the base of the occipital just behind and below the sphenoid, and pin the greater wings of the sphenoid to the edge of the temporals, as shown in the photos below. Sew along the line shown in light green in photo S. Sew the cast-off edges of the sphenoid to the frontal bone. Note that this shouldn't be sewn to the cast-off edge, the idea is just to close up the hole and hide the felt underneath (it should be sewn to the curved orange lines on image F above) The underside of the bone should now look as shown below. Place the 2nd part of the temporal bones in the holes either side of the occipital bone. Sew these in place according to the colours shown in photo T2 above. Sew the pterygoid plates to the back of the maxillae so that they lie flat, as shown below. Sew the tip of the occipital bone to the body of the sphenoid, then sew up any remaining holes that exist between the bones. Stuff the skull, then sew tips of the the temporal and zygomatic bones together as shown in the photo below. Sew the jaw in place. You can either do this directly or with the proper joint capsule and ligaments. For the joint capsule (make 2): With a 1mm hook and grey #10 yarn ch6 Row 1: sc in the 2nd chain st from hook and each of the next 4 chain sts. ch1, turn (5sc) Rows 2 - 12: (11 rows) sc in each st. ch1, turn Row 13: sc in each st Fasten off Sew the 2 ends of this section together to form a tube, then sew one end of this tube to the top of the jaw. Sew the other side to the temporal bone For the lateral ligament (make 2): With a 1mm hook and grey #10 yarn ch12 Row 1: sc in the 2nd chain st from hook and each of the next 10 chain sts. ch1, turn (11sc) Row 2: sc in each st Fasten off Sew one end of this to the temporal bone, just in front of where you attached the joint capsule, and the other to the tip of the jaw, in front of the joint capsule For the sylomandibular ligament (make 2): Ch11 Row 1: sc in the 2nd chain st from hook and each of the next 9sts Fasten off Sew one end of the ligament to the styloid process of part 2 of the temporal bones and the other to the bottom of the inner face of the jaw, as shown in the images below. For the sphenomandibular ligament (make 2): Ch14 Row 1: sc in the 2nd chain st from hook and each of the next 12 chain sts. ch1, turn (13sc) Row 2: Slip9, sc3, ch2 Row 3: Sc in 2nd st from hook, sc12 Fasten off Sew the flat end of this to the temporal bone, just behind where you attached the joint capsule. The other end (with the 2 points) should be sewn to the inside back of the jaw, about halfway down. That's all from this pattern - I hope you've enjoyed it! If you have any questions please email them to [email protected] and I'll do my best to answer them asap. If you want to keep up to date with what I'm currently working on the best way is to follow me on my Instagram. As always you're very welcome to sell finished products but please don't re-post this pattern or claim it as your own. Thank you!
If you have been crocheting for a while now, you have probably designed some of your own pieces and thought about sharing those designs with the rest of the maker community. I think it’s a very natural progression for a crocheter to want to try their hand at designing and I say GO FOR IT! … Continue reading How To Write A Crochet Pattern | What To Include
Ever wonder how to use stitch markers when it comes to your crochet projects? This how to use stitch markers in crochet page includes a crochet tutorial video and also includes the perfect outline of not only when you can use stitch markers, but also the different kinds you can use as well. What is a stitch marker? It is an item used to keep track of your work in either crochet or knitting so that you can take a break, focus on your current row, or break up sections as needed. It's also known as a place marker and the items that can be used is numerous (which is why we're explaining many of the options on this page). This is a super helpful crochet stitch markers tutorial for beginners that are looking to start more complex projects or those crocheters who have never tried to use them. Stitch markers have a fantastic number of uses so learning how to use them can be super beneficial in your next crochet project! Why use stitch markers? Why do you need stitch markers? Stitch markers are optional but they are incredibly helpful when crocheting certain projects. Using them keeps you organized, on track, and prepared for the next step. Below, you will find several reasons to use crochet stitch markers. You can use them anytime and for any project.
Learn how to make realistic hearts with this crochet heart pattern! This pattern is a great introduction to making plushies because of the simple shapes !
How do YOU add a border in crochet? There is ONE thing I do before all else - no matter which border I'm using. Let me show you my trick!
The Short Stories crochet cardigan pattern is a women’s top down everyday crochet cardigan, perfect for layering, written in 9 sizes.
Are you ready to up you skills and try some challenging advanced crochet patterns? You will find a great list of tricky crochet patterns to get your crojo moving.
I have the ultimate trick for you all - you're gonna love it!
Change colors and switch yarn without the awkward look of a slip stitch and chain with this standing double crochet video and tutorial!
Have you ever wondered what a multiple is in a crochet pattern? In this tutorial, I explain what it is, why it's important, and how to figure out your own!
Are you looking to spice up your Sims 4 bathroom? Look no further! I've got an amazing selection of Sims 4 bathroom CC to fill up your CC folder.
For many crochet business owners, crochet product pricing is the biggest stressor and it’s the question I receive most as a crochet business coach, “How do I price my crochet so I make money but my customers don’t have to pay exorbitant prices?” Take a Deep Breath OK, before we get started I want you...
Letters you can use that can be crocheted into a project.
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Remember to save this post for later because it includes all the 2016 Crochet alongs I could find online. This post includes free patterns.
Just getting started with sewing? You'll love this roundup of easy sewing projects for beginners including pillows, blankets, a dress, and more.
Learn how to surface crochet with this surface crochet photo tutorial. Included is my tips and tricks for success with this stitch!
How to Fix a Snagged Sweater: Fix your snagged sweater easily with this quick tutorial. I snag my sweaters all the time because I have a velcro attachment on my backpack that always catches on to my clothes. No matter where you are you can quickly fix this using tools you have o…