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I recently discovered the book, Knit The Alphabet, by Claire Garland and couldn't resist knitting up a quick "N-N-K" out of scraps to display on the shelf of my office. I've been a big fan of Claire's designs for years now. (Proof HERE and HERE.) I have always loved her whimsical use of knit stitches to create the most adorable toys and now.. letters! There are so many fun uses for these knitted letters. They would make such a fun decoration for a kid's room. Can you imagine a name strung up over a bed or small letters hanging from a crib mobile? What about a giant first letter of your child's name as a "pillow" on the bed? If I was "super mommy" I would love to knit the whole alphabet to practice making words with my 2 year old. They are just so fun to make and play with.. and squish.

Hey Everyone! I’m back with a new pattern and this one is a special one. The Oh So Boho Wall Hanging was designed and written for bellacococrochet.com! I feel so honored to have been asked to create a design for the blog and I am so excited to be able to now share it on my own platform for you all. When I was first approached by the Bella Coco team to design a pattern for the blog I knew I wanted to do something boho inspired. I had been designing a lot of moon and sun themed patterns up until that point and wanted to start branching out into doing more plant themed designs. For the guest designer patterns the team was looking for a color scheme of cool and pastel neutrals which was right up my alley and only added to the excitement of my initial design ideas. From there The Oh So Boho Wall Hanging was born and it still serves as one of my favorite patterns I’ve designed. To see the original guest post on the Bella Coco Crochet blog click here. I will see you again very soon with a brand new pattern! Happy Crocheting! This post contains affiliate links that support the content on LoveandStitchDesign.com. Each affiliate link has a * beside it. All opinions are my own. Find more information about affiliate links, as well as my Privacy & Disclosures Policy here. Thank you for your support! Pin it For Later! Interested in the pattern and want to save it for later? You can use my Pinterest pin link by clicking here or the image below! You can purchase the Printable PDF on Etsy here! The PDF includes the complete step-by-step pattern so you can follow along on paper, highlighting and making notes as needed. It is a total of 9 pages, including the front and back cover pages. I’ve also included a PDF download of the chart for this pattern. Materials *5.00 mm Crochet Hook Weight 4 Worsted Weight Yarn (yarn I used will be listed below) Dowel Rod or Tree Branch *Yarn Needle *Scissors Yarn Choice For most of my wall hanging patterns I prefer to use a thicker and tighter spun worsted weight yarn. I feel like it gives a lot more definition to the piece and details tend to stand out more. I really don’t focus too much on the texture of the yarn because I steam every single one of my wall hangings, which softens the piece and makes it more flexible and flowy. This is especially helpful for tighter crocheters. The brands I tend to gravitate the most towards are Red Heart Super Saver, Caron One Pound, Loops & Threads Impeccable and WeCrochet Brava Worsted. *KNITCRATE: Get 1 free crate (you pay shipping) and 1 item in the shop for 20% off when you use my code LOVEANDSTITCH at checkout at knitcrate.com. For this wall hanging I used the following yarn: Red Heart Super Saver in Aran Loops & Threads Impeccable in Soft Taupe Loops & Threads Impeccable in Fern Loops & Threads Impeccable in Butterscotch Loops & Threads Impeccable in Putty Loops & Threads Impeccable in Gold Stitch Key (US Terms) Ch = Chain St/sts = Stitch(es) Sc = Single Crochet Color Abbreviations A = Aran ST = Soft Taupe F = Fern B = Butterscotch P = Putty G = Gold Special Notes -The wall hanging is worked in rows. -The wall hanging is worked from the bottom up. -The 1st st of each row should be placed into the same stitch as the turning chain. -The turning chain does not count as the 1st stitch of the row. -The wall hanging is worked in single crochet. -The pattern is written as: # of single crochet stitches (color abbreviation), example: 8 (A) means 8 sc in the color Aran. -The odd rows are the right side rows. Even rows will be the wrong side. -This wall hanging is worked up using the cut and tie color changing method. To learn how to do a seamless color change click here! Dimensions: 10 inches wide x 11.5 inches tall (not including fringe) Gauge: 15 sts x 18 rows = 4 inch square worked in single crochet. Pattern I have created a chart for this pattern for those who prefer to follow a chart instead of a written pattern. The PDF version of the chart is included with the pattern purchase in my Etsy shop. Here is the free online version for you to use. CH 40 in Aran Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 2: 13 (A), 9 (ST), 17 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 3: 15 (A), 13 (ST), 11 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 4: 10 (A), 15 (ST), 14 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 5: 13 (A), 17 (ST), 9 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 6: 9 (A), 17 (ST), 13 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 7: 13 (A), 17 (ST), 9 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 8: 9 (A), 17 (ST), 13 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 9: 13 (A), 17 (ST), 9 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 10: 9 (A), 17 (ST), 13 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 11: 14 (A), 15 (ST), 10 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 12: 10 (A), 15 (ST), 14 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 13: 15 (A), 13 (ST), 11 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 14: 12 (A), 11 (ST), 16 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 15: 17 (A), 9 (ST), 13 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 16: 14 (A), 7 (ST), 18 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 17: 18 (A), 7 (ST), 14 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 18: 13 (A), 9 (ST), 17 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 19: 16 (A), 11 (ST), 12 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 20: 17 (A), 1 (F), 21 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 21: 21 (A), 1 (F), 17 (A). CH 1, turn. (39) Row 22: 17 (A), 2 (F), 20 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 23: 19 (A), 3 (F), 17 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 24: 17 (A), 1 (F), 1 (A), 5 (F), 15 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 25: 13 (A), 6 (F), 2 (A), 2 (F), 16 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 26: 15 (A), 3 (F), 2 (A), 8 (F), 11 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 27: 10 (A), 7 (F), 1 (A), 1 (F), 2 (A), 4 (F), 14 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 28: 13 (A), 4 (F), 3 (A), 1 (F), 3 (A), 6 (F), 9 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 29: 8 (A), 5 (F), 5 (A), 1 (F), 3 (A), 4 (F), 8 (A), 1 (B), 4 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 30: 3 (A), 3 (B), 7 (A), 3 (F), 4 (A), 2 (F), 6 (A), 4 (F), 7 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 31: 16 (A), 3 (F), 4 (A), 3 (F), 4 (P), 4 (A), 1 (B), 4 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 32: 7 (A), 6 (P), 2 (F), 3 (P), 1 (A), 5 (F), 15 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 33: 14 (A), 3 (F), 1 (A), 3 (F), 4 (A), 1 (F), 7 (P), 6 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 34: 5 (A), 7 (P), 1 (A), 1 (F), 4 (A), 3 (F), 2 (A), 3 (F), 13 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 35: 12 (A), 3 (F), 2 (A), 5 (F), 6 (A), 7 (P), 4 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 36: 4 (A), 6 (P), 6 (A), 3 (F), 1 (A), 2 (F), 3 (A), 2 (F), 12 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 37: 11 (A), 2 (F), 3 (A), 3 (F), 1 (A), 3 (F), 7 (A), 6 (P), 3 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 38: 3 (A), 6 (P), 6 (A), 4 (F), 1 (A), 4 (F), 3 (A), 1 (F), 11 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 39: 15 (A), 4 (F), 2 (A), 3 (F), 6 (A), 6 (P), 3 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 40: 3 (A), 6 (P), 6 (A), 2 (F), 3 (A), 5 (F), 14 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 41: 14 (A), 5 (F), 4 (A), 1 (F), 6 (A), 6 (P), 3 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 42: 3 (A), 6 (P), 6 (A), 1 (F), 4 (A), 5 (F), 5 (A), 4 (G), 5 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 43: 4 (A), 6 (G), 4 (A), 5 (F), 11 (A), 6 (P), 3 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 44: 4 (A), 6 (P), 11 (A), 4 (F), 3 (A), 8 (G), 3 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 45: 3 (A), 8 (G), 3 (A), 4 (F), 3 (A), 1 (B), 7 (A), 6 (P), 4 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 46: 5 (A), 6 (P), 5 (A), 3 (B), 3 (A), 3 (F), 3 (A), 8 (G), 3 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 47: 3 (A), 8 (G), 3 (A), 3 (F), 4 (A), 1 (B), 4 (A), 7 (P), 6 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 48: 7 (A), 7 (P), 9 (A), 2 (F), 4 (A), 6 (G), 4 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 49: 5 (A), 4 (G), 5 (A), 2 (F), 7 (A), 7 (P), 5 (A), 1 (B), 3 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 50: 2 (A), 3 (B), 19 (A), 1 (F), 14 (A). Ch, turn. (39) Row 51: 14 (A), 1 (F), 20 (A), 1 (B), 3 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 52: 39 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 53: 39 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Fasten off after Row 53 leaving a 3 foot tail. Attaching the Fringe To create the fringe, cut 12 inch pieces of yarn in Aran. You will need 3 strands to complete 1 fringe. To attach the fringe, grab 3 strands of yarn. Use a larger crochet hook and push the hook through the far left foundation chain on the bottom of the piece. Fold the 3 strands in half and loop the middle of the strands onto the crochet hook and pull the loop of strands through the foundation chain about 2 inches. Click here for a video tutorial! Fold the strands through the loop. Tighten to create the fringe. Repeat for every other foundation chain. Trim the fringe to your preferred length. Hanging the Project To attach the project to the dowel rod or tree branch; using a yarn needle, weave the tail over the branch/dowel and back under into the 1st st on the top of the wall hanging. Click here for a video tutorial! Repeat for each stitch along the top of the wall hanging. Knot off and weave in your ends. To hang the project drill 2 small holes on either side of the branch/dowel. Thread the both holes with cotton yarn and knot off both ends. Trim excess yarn. (feel free to use your preferred method of hanging the project) Enjoy! For more crochet wall hanging patterns click here!

DIAMOND PADDING stitch knitting pattern. Skill level: Beginner. Only Knits and purls! FREE Written and charted instructions. Oh La Lana!

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TRIANGLES stitch knitting pattern. Skill level: beginner: only Knits and purls. Written and charted instructions. Oh La Lana!

These days most parties have some sort of photobooth set up because people love taking photos! Check out my 28 DIY Photobooth Ideas for inspiration.

Hey Everyone! Hope everyone had an awesome summer! Can you believe it is already September. It was literally June, and then I blinked and now it’s almost October. Now that fall is right around the corner it’s time to introduce a new fall wall hanging. I am so obsessed with those wooden plank signs on the front porches of perfectly decorated houses. With one glance I, in true maker fashion, thought “I could crochet this!” And so I did. Introducing the “Oh So Fall Wall Hanging” crochet pattern. While designing this wall hanging I was so thrilled to remember that I had designed a maple leaf wall hanging for Hobbii Yarn a while ago. These are my favorite patterns to design because as you may well know I am a lazy girl at heart so if I already did the hard work for another pattern I can take full advantage and cruise through the next, lol. Grab a copy of The Maple Tree Wall Hanging pattern here! If you love those adorable wooden signs as much as I do, but dont want to mess around with wood stain and a cutting machine, this is the perfect pattern for you. Happy Crocheting! This post contains affiliate links that support the content on LoveandStitchDesign.com. Each affiliate link has a * beside it. All opinions are my own. Find more information about affiliate links, as well as my Privacy & Disclosures Policy here. Thank you for your support! Pin It For Later! Interested in the pattern and want to save it for later? You can use my Pinterest pin link by clicking here or the image below! You can purchase the Printable PDF on Etsy here! The PDF includes the complete step-by-step pattern so you can follow along on paper, highlighting and making notes as needed. It is a total of 11 pages, including the front and back cover pages. I’ve also included a PDF download of the chart for this pattern. Materials *5.00 mm Crochet Hook Weight 4 Worsted Weight Yarn (yarn I used listed below) Dowel Rod or Tree Branch (cut to size) *Yarn Needle *Scissors *Hand Steamer (optional) Yarn Choice For most of my wall hanging patterns I prefer to use a thicker and tighter spun worsted weight yarn. I feel like it gives a lot more definition to the piece and details tend to stand out more. I really don’t focus too much on the texture of the yarn because I steam every single one of my wall hangings, which softens the piece and makes it more flexible and flowy. This is especially helpful for tighter crocheters. The brands I tend to gravitate the most towards are Red Heart Super Saver, Loops & Threads Impeccable and We Crochet Brava Worsted. *KNITCRATE: Get 1 free crate (you pay shipping) and 1 item in the shop for 20% off when you use my code LOVEANDSTITCH at checkout at knitcrate.com. For this wall hanging I used the following yarn: We Crochet Brava Worsted in Cream- approx. 200 yards We Crochet Brava Worsted in Brindle- approx. 20 yards We Crochet Brava Worsted in Persimmon- approx. 30 yards We Crochet Brava Worsted in Avocado- approx. 15 yards We Crochet Brava Worsted in Canary- approx. 15 yards Stitch Key (US Terms) Ch = Chain St/sts = Stitch(es) Sc = Single Crochet Color Abbreviations CR = Cream CA = Canary AV = Avocado P = Persimmon BR = Brindle Special Notes -The wall hanging is worked in rows. -The wall hanging is worked from the bottom up. -The 1st st of each row should be placed into the same stitch as the turning chain. -The turning chain does not count as the 1st stitch of the row. -The pattern is written as: # of single crochet stitches (color abbreviation), example: 8 (CR) means 8 sc in Cream. -The odd rows are the right side rows. Even rows will be the wrong side. To learn how to do a seamless color change click here! Dimensions: 9 inches wide x 26 inches long (not including fringe). Gauge: 15 sts x 18 rows = 4 inch square working in single crochet. Pattern I have created a chart for this pattern for those who prefer to follow a chart rather than a written pattern. The PDF version of this chart is included with the pattern purchase in my Etsy shop. Here is the free online version for you to use. Begin by chaining 35 in Cream. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 2 – Row 5: sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 6 – Row 10: 10 (CR), 14 (CA), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 11: 19 (CR), 5 (CA), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 12: 10 (CR), 5 (CA), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 13: 19 (CR), 5 (CA), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 14: 10 (CR), 5 (CA), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 15: 19 (CR), 5 (CA), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 16: 10 (CR), 5 (CA), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 17: 19 (CR), 5 (CA), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 18: 10 (CR), 5 (CA), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 19: 19 (CR), 5 (CA), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 20: 10 (CR), 5 (CA), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 21: 19 (CR), 5 (CA), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 22: 10 (CR), 5 (CA), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 23: 19 (CR), 5 (CA), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 24: 10 (CR), 5 (CA), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 25: 19 (CR), 5 (CA), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 26: 10 (CR), 5 (CA), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 27 – Row 30: In Cream, sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 31 – Row 35: 10 (CR), 14 (AV), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 36: 10 (CR), 5 (AV), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 37: 19 (CR), 5 (AV), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 38: 10 (CR), 5 (AV), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 39: 19 (CR), 5 (AV), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 40: 10 (CR), 5 (AV), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 41: 19 (CR), 5 (AV), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 42: 10 (CR), 5 (AV), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 43: 19 (CR), 5 (AV), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 44: 10 (CR), 5 (AV), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 45: 19 (CR), 5 (AV), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 46: 10 (CR), 5 (AV), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 47: 19 (CR), 5 (AV), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 48: 10 (CR), 5 (AV), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 49: 19 (CR), 5 (AV), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 50: 10 (CR), 5 (AV), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 51: 19 (CR), 5 (AV), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 52 – Row 55: In Cream, sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 56: 8 (CR), 1 (P), 5 (CR), 1 (P), 4 (CR), 1 (P), 3 (CR), 1 (P), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 57: 10 (CR), 2 (P), 1 (CR), 2 (P), 4 (CR), 1 (P), 4 (CR), 2 (P), 8 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 58: 8 (CR), 2 (P), 4 (CR), 2 (P), 2 (CR), 6 (P), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 59: 10 (CR), 10 (P), 4 (CR), 2 (P), 8 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 60: 9 (CR), 1 (P), 4 (CR), 9 (P), 11 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 61: 11 (CR), 10 (P), 2 (CR), 2 (P), 9 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 62: 10 (CR), 2 (P), 1 (CR), 9 (P), 12 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 63: 6 (CR), 2 (P), 1 (CR), 2 (P), 1 (CR), 11 (P), 3 (CR), 2 (P), 6 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 64: 7 (CR), 14 (P), 1 (CR), 5 (P), 7 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 65: 8 (CR), 19 (P), 7 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 66: 8 (CR), 20 (P), 6 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 67: 6 (CR), 24 (P), 4 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 68: 5 (CR), 24 (P), 5 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 69: 8 (CR), 4 (P), 1 (CR), 15 (P), 6 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 70: 5 (CR), 17 (P), 2 (CR), 3 (P), 7 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 71: 10 (CR), 20 (P), 4 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 72: 6 (CR), 1 (P), 1 (CR), 2 (P), 1 (CR), 14 (P), 9 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 73: 11 (CR), 13 (P), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 74: 9 (CR), 15 (P), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 75: 8 (CR), 10 (P), 1 (CR), 6 (P), 9 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 76: 8 (CR), 7 (P), 1 (CR), 9 (P), 9 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 77: 9 (CR), 8 (P), 2 (CR), 5 (P), 1 (CR), 1 (P), 8 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 78: 10 (CR), 5 (P), 2 (CR), 1 (P), 1 (CR), 6 (P), 9 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 79: 10 (CR), 4 (P), 5 (CR), 3 (P), 1 (CR), 1 (P), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 80: 12 (CR), 2 (P), 7 (CR), 1 (P), 1 (CR), 1 (P), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 81: 20 (CR), 1 (P), 13 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 82 – Row 85: In Cream, sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 86: 10 (CR), 5 (BR), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 87: 19 (CR), 5 (BR), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 88: 10 (CR), 5 (BR), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 89: 19 (CR), 5 (BR), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 90: 10 (CR), 5 (BR), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 91: 19 (CR), 5 (BR), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 92: 10 (CR), 5 (BR), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 93: 19 (CR), 5 (BR), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 94: 10 (CR), 10 (BR), 14 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 95: 14 (CR), 10 (BR), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 96: 10 (CR), 10 (BR), 14 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 97: 14 (CR), 10 (BR), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 98: 10 (CR), 10 (BR), 14 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 99: 19 (CR), 5 (BR), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 100: 10 (CR), 5 (BR), 19 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 101: 19 (CR), 5 (BR), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 102 – Row 106: 10 (CR), 14 (BR), 10 (CR). Ch 1, turn. (34) Row 107 – Row 111: In Cream, sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (34) Fasten off after Row 111 leaving at least a 3 foot tail. Attaching the Fringe To create the fringe cut 12 inch pieces of yarn in Cream. You will need 3 strands to complete 1 fringe. To attach the fringe, grab 3 strands of yarn in White. With a crochet hook, push the hook through the far left foundation chain. Fold the 3 strands of yarn in half, looping the middle of the strands onto the crochet hook. Fold the strands through the loop. Tighten to create the fringe. Repeat for every other foundation chain. Hanging the Project To attach the project to a dowel rod or tree branch;...

Looking for some cute penguin crochet patterns? I have gathered a bunch of cute patterns to try. There are easy and more advanced.

4 x 6 inch print of a cute little wizard cat. He's oh so magical! Each print is printed by hand on watercolor paper with speedball black ink. Due to the nature of the print making process please note that there may be small imperfections on the print. Each print is slightly unique and will vary from the listing image.

BASKET stitch knitting pattern. Skill level: Beginner. Only Knits and purls! FREE Written and charted instructions. Oh La Lana!

I came across these adorable Volksbagon van/buses and had to share! There is a free pattern on Ravelry. I just love the color she used! Made by VelvetKey You can get the free Volkswagon van

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Hey Everyone! I’m back with a new pattern and this one is a special one. The Oh So Boho Wall Hanging was designed and written for bellacococrochet.com! I feel so honored to have been asked to create a design for the blog and I am so excited to be able to now share it on my own platform for you all. When I was first approached by the Bella Coco team to design a pattern for the blog I knew I wanted to do something boho inspired. I had been designing a lot of moon and sun themed patterns up until that point and wanted to start branching out into doing more plant themed designs. For the guest designer patterns the team was looking for a color scheme of cool and pastel neutrals which was right up my alley and only added to the excitement of my initial design ideas. From there The Oh So Boho Wall Hanging was born and it still serves as one of my favorite patterns I’ve designed. To see the original guest post on the Bella Coco Crochet blog click here. I will see you again very soon with a brand new pattern! Happy Crocheting! This post contains affiliate links that support the content on LoveandStitchDesign.com. Each affiliate link has a * beside it. All opinions are my own. Find more information about affiliate links, as well as my Privacy & Disclosures Policy here. Thank you for your support! Pin it For Later! Interested in the pattern and want to save it for later? You can use my Pinterest pin link by clicking here or the image below! You can purchase the Printable PDF on Etsy here! The PDF includes the complete step-by-step pattern so you can follow along on paper, highlighting and making notes as needed. It is a total of 9 pages, including the front and back cover pages. I’ve also included a PDF download of the chart for this pattern. Materials *5.00 mm Crochet Hook Weight 4 Worsted Weight Yarn (yarn I used will be listed below) Dowel Rod or Tree Branch *Yarn Needle *Scissors Yarn Choice For most of my wall hanging patterns I prefer to use a thicker and tighter spun worsted weight yarn. I feel like it gives a lot more definition to the piece and details tend to stand out more. I really don’t focus too much on the texture of the yarn because I steam every single one of my wall hangings, which softens the piece and makes it more flexible and flowy. This is especially helpful for tighter crocheters. The brands I tend to gravitate the most towards are Red Heart Super Saver, Caron One Pound, Loops & Threads Impeccable and WeCrochet Brava Worsted. *KNITCRATE: Get 1 free crate (you pay shipping) and 1 item in the shop for 20% off when you use my code LOVEANDSTITCH at checkout at knitcrate.com. For this wall hanging I used the following yarn: Red Heart Super Saver in Aran Loops & Threads Impeccable in Soft Taupe Loops & Threads Impeccable in Fern Loops & Threads Impeccable in Butterscotch Loops & Threads Impeccable in Putty Loops & Threads Impeccable in Gold Stitch Key (US Terms) Ch = Chain St/sts = Stitch(es) Sc = Single Crochet Color Abbreviations A = Aran ST = Soft Taupe F = Fern B = Butterscotch P = Putty G = Gold Special Notes -The wall hanging is worked in rows. -The wall hanging is worked from the bottom up. -The 1st st of each row should be placed into the same stitch as the turning chain. -The turning chain does not count as the 1st stitch of the row. -The wall hanging is worked in single crochet. -The pattern is written as: # of single crochet stitches (color abbreviation), example: 8 (A) means 8 sc in the color Aran. -The odd rows are the right side rows. Even rows will be the wrong side. -This wall hanging is worked up using the cut and tie color changing method. To learn how to do a seamless color change click here! Dimensions: 10 inches wide x 11.5 inches tall (not including fringe) Gauge: 15 sts x 18 rows = 4 inch square worked in single crochet. Pattern I have created a chart for this pattern for those who prefer to follow a chart instead of a written pattern. The PDF version of the chart is included with the pattern purchase in my Etsy shop. Here is the free online version for you to use. CH 40 in Aran Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 2: 13 (A), 9 (ST), 17 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 3: 15 (A), 13 (ST), 11 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 4: 10 (A), 15 (ST), 14 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 5: 13 (A), 17 (ST), 9 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 6: 9 (A), 17 (ST), 13 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 7: 13 (A), 17 (ST), 9 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 8: 9 (A), 17 (ST), 13 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 9: 13 (A), 17 (ST), 9 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 10: 9 (A), 17 (ST), 13 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 11: 14 (A), 15 (ST), 10 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 12: 10 (A), 15 (ST), 14 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 13: 15 (A), 13 (ST), 11 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 14: 12 (A), 11 (ST), 16 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 15: 17 (A), 9 (ST), 13 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 16: 14 (A), 7 (ST), 18 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 17: 18 (A), 7 (ST), 14 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 18: 13 (A), 9 (ST), 17 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 19: 16 (A), 11 (ST), 12 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 20: 17 (A), 1 (F), 21 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 21: 21 (A), 1 (F), 17 (A). CH 1, turn. (39) Row 22: 17 (A), 2 (F), 20 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 23: 19 (A), 3 (F), 17 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 24: 17 (A), 1 (F), 1 (A), 5 (F), 15 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 25: 13 (A), 6 (F), 2 (A), 2 (F), 16 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 26: 15 (A), 3 (F), 2 (A), 8 (F), 11 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 27: 10 (A), 7 (F), 1 (A), 1 (F), 2 (A), 4 (F), 14 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 28: 13 (A), 4 (F), 3 (A), 1 (F), 3 (A), 6 (F), 9 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 29: 8 (A), 5 (F), 5 (A), 1 (F), 3 (A), 4 (F), 8 (A), 1 (B), 4 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 30: 3 (A), 3 (B), 7 (A), 3 (F), 4 (A), 2 (F), 6 (A), 4 (F), 7 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 31: 16 (A), 3 (F), 4 (A), 3 (F), 4 (P), 4 (A), 1 (B), 4 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 32: 7 (A), 6 (P), 2 (F), 3 (P), 1 (A), 5 (F), 15 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 33: 14 (A), 3 (F), 1 (A), 3 (F), 4 (A), 1 (F), 7 (P), 6 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 34: 5 (A), 7 (P), 1 (A), 1 (F), 4 (A), 3 (F), 2 (A), 3 (F), 13 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 35: 12 (A), 3 (F), 2 (A), 5 (F), 6 (A), 7 (P), 4 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 36: 4 (A), 6 (P), 6 (A), 3 (F), 1 (A), 2 (F), 3 (A), 2 (F), 12 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 37: 11 (A), 2 (F), 3 (A), 3 (F), 1 (A), 3 (F), 7 (A), 6 (P), 3 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 38: 3 (A), 6 (P), 6 (A), 4 (F), 1 (A), 4 (F), 3 (A), 1 (F), 11 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 39: 15 (A), 4 (F), 2 (A), 3 (F), 6 (A), 6 (P), 3 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 40: 3 (A), 6 (P), 6 (A), 2 (F), 3 (A), 5 (F), 14 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 41: 14 (A), 5 (F), 4 (A), 1 (F), 6 (A), 6 (P), 3 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 42: 3 (A), 6 (P), 6 (A), 1 (F), 4 (A), 5 (F), 5 (A), 4 (G), 5 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 43: 4 (A), 6 (G), 4 (A), 5 (F), 11 (A), 6 (P), 3 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 44: 4 (A), 6 (P), 11 (A), 4 (F), 3 (A), 8 (G), 3 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 45: 3 (A), 8 (G), 3 (A), 4 (F), 3 (A), 1 (B), 7 (A), 6 (P), 4 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 46: 5 (A), 6 (P), 5 (A), 3 (B), 3 (A), 3 (F), 3 (A), 8 (G), 3 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 47: 3 (A), 8 (G), 3 (A), 3 (F), 4 (A), 1 (B), 4 (A), 7 (P), 6 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 48: 7 (A), 7 (P), 9 (A), 2 (F), 4 (A), 6 (G), 4 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 49: 5 (A), 4 (G), 5 (A), 2 (F), 7 (A), 7 (P), 5 (A), 1 (B), 3 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 50: 2 (A), 3 (B), 19 (A), 1 (F), 14 (A). Ch, turn. (39) Row 51: 14 (A), 1 (F), 20 (A), 1 (B), 3 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 52: 39 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Row 53: 39 (A). Ch 1, turn. (39) Fasten off after Row 53 leaving a 3 foot tail. Attaching the Fringe To create the fringe, cut 12 inch pieces of yarn in Aran. You will need 3 strands to complete 1 fringe. To attach the fringe, grab 3 strands of yarn. Use a larger crochet hook and push the hook through the far left foundation chain on the bottom of the piece. Fold the 3 strands in half and loop the middle of the strands onto the crochet hook and pull the loop of strands through the foundation chain about 2 inches. Click here for a video tutorial! Fold the strands through the loop. Tighten to create the fringe. Repeat for every other foundation chain. Trim the fringe to your preferred length. Hanging the Project To attach the project to the dowel rod or tree branch; using a yarn needle, weave the tail over the branch/dowel and back under into the 1st st on the top of the wall hanging. Click here for a video tutorial! Repeat for each stitch along the top of the wall hanging. Knot off and weave in your ends. To hang the project drill 2 small holes on either side of the branch/dowel. Thread the both holes with cotton yarn and knot off both ends. Trim excess yarn. (feel free to use your preferred method of hanging the project) Enjoy! For more crochet wall hanging patterns click here!

Are you ready to make the easiest quilt ever? If so, read on to see how I made this easy quilt with no measuring or pattern required!

We all have them. Those jeans that we USED TO be able to wear. Those jeans we WISH we could still wear. I admit I am guilty of keeping a bunch of jeans I wore in college. Ten years and two kids later, and there is very little chance that I will ever be able to wear them again, even if they were, by some odd chance, to come back in style again. Since I have serious problems getting rid of perfectly good clothes, there is a simple solution: make the jeans fit by adding a side panel that provides a little more room. Let's start with the jeans we are going to refit. These jeans are pretty great, with the exception, of course, that they are about 2 sizes too small. On the plus side though, they are in great condition, they have the right length inseam for me, they have a button fly (which I love), and they are boot cut, so I won't have to add any additional width at the bottom to account for tapered jeans. They're also FREE, having been in my attic since I got pregnant with my 6 year old. Incidentally, if you're not a denim hoarder like me, you can also do this with any pair of old jeans from the thrift store. In this economy, who wouldn't love to be able to walk into a store, pick up pretty much any pair of second-hand jeans in the store and know they could make them work?The first thing to do is to rip out the outseams with a seam ripper. I do this exactly the way your sewing instructor told you NOT to rip out seams. I put the seam ripper between the two sides of denim and cut the threads. Since the jeans have been sewn together with a chain stitch, you should be able to get enough play to just pull and rip without ripping a hole in the denim....and heck, it's quicker. Cut all of the stitching on both sides from the beginning of the waistband to the hem. At the hem, tear out the stitches a few inches to either side of the seam and unroll the hem around the outseam. Once your seams are ripped out, remove the stitches and left over thread pieces. Do NOT press the jeans after doing this. At the waistband, cut the waistband straight up from the seam. At this point, measure the outseam of the pants INCLUDING the extra fabric from the unrolled hem, but NOT including the waistband. This will be measurement A. Additionally, measure the width of the waistband. Then, try on the pants. Yes, post rip. Now you can get them on. The way I like to do this is by running a belt through the belt loops and tightening it so it hits at my waist. Straighten out the jeans so the seams are in the right place and measure how much space there is between the outseams. Measure in a few different places along your hips, thighs, and waist, and be sure to measure on both sides. One measurement will be the largest. Use that one to give you an idea of how wide your side panels will have to be, as you can see in my picture here. I need about 4" at the lower hip. For the panel I need to make, I will add 1" for seams and an additional 1" for comfort, for a total of 6" of width. This will be measurement B. Note: this is a good time, if you want to, to add any appliques, embroideries, or other embellishments to your jeans. Now, you know how large the side panels of your pants will need to be. (A long, by B wide). The easiest way to do this is to cut a single piece of fabric to that measurement. I, however, tend to prefer to make a patchwork panel for the sides of my jeans, so that is what I will be showing. I start off by laying out the patches for my pants to get a good idea of how they will look. I then sew the patches together. Since the patches are cotton, and cotton is lighter weight than denim, I like to also add a lining piece of fabric for the inside of the jeans. This adds weight and also increases the durability of the panels. For the waistband, I take a piece of fabric the width of the panels and twice the length of the waistband plus 1" for seams. I fold the fabric lengthwise and place the raw edges lined up with the top of the panel going into the side of the pants. If you are using a lining piece, line this piece up also, matching the wrong side of the lining to the wrong side of the panel with the waistband piece on the outside, sandwiching the panel piece. Additionally, I like to have a small piece of heavy duty elastic to add to the inside of the waistband. This helps pull in the waist from the comfort inches I added into the pants earlier. I cut a piece of elastic 1" smaller than the actual measurement I needed from the pants when I measured them (for me this is 3"). If you prefer not to have elastic in your waistband, make the waistband the actual width you needed added to your jeans plus 1" for seams, and taper out from the waistband measurement along the sides of the panels until you get to the full width of the panels at approximately 3-4" below the waist. I prefer the elastic because it allows for "fat days" and slight weight fluctuations. Line up the elastic with the center of the waistband, pin right sides together, and sew your side panel onto your jeans. The easiest way to do this is to have the jeans on top going through the sewing machine, and sewing right along the old seam line. The jeans should still have a slight fold where the old seam was. Just slowly follow along in this. No worries about the different coloration from the dyeing of the denim showing,and the jeans will automatically press to the side after stitching so they lie flat.You will need to be careful when sewing around the rivet. Just go slowly and make sure you don't try to actually sew it. It should be off to the side, but in some jeans it is close. Once you reach the hem, you may have some fabric left--cut that off straight across. Then sew on the other side of the panel, again with the jeans on top. Stop right before you hit the waistband on the way up, pull the elastic through the casing, and sew everything together. It should look like this when you are done: Repeat with the other side. Once the side panels are all sewn in, I like to finish the seams. This will keep them from unraveling. I have a serger so I just serge the edges of the seams, just as they were before I ripped out the side seams of the jeans. If you don't have a serger, you can zig-zag along the raw edge, or you can use an over cast stitch if your machine has one. For the hem, re-roll the jeans back to how they were originally rolled. The panel will start to roll for you. Just follow that roll all the way across, top stitch following the old hem seam, and you are done. To troubleshoot length: If your jeans are NOT the correct inseam length, there are a few ways to work through this. If the pants are too short, measure how much additional length you need. you can either cut off the hem, and sew a length of fabric onto the bottom for this extra length as an easy fix, or you can use this more complicated method: After opening the outseam, but before measuring for the needed length of the panel, cut the measurement of the additional length you need above the hem plus one inch off the hem off the jeans. For example, if you need 3 extra inches, cut your jeans off 4" above the factory hem. With the jeans open, sew a strip of fabric that is the extra length you need plus 1" for seams onto the bottom. Then sew on the hem of the jeans. Finish the jeans as above. Try on your new jeans and give yourself a pat on the back. One other trouble shooting tip: If your jeans are tapered at the ankle, you can counter that by tapering the bottom of your side panel so the bottom of your jeans is nice and straight...and along those same lines, if you like flares, just flare the panel as much as you want. Above all, feel free to experiment! Another great thing about these jeans: If you get tired of the way they look, or if you lose or gain weight so they no longer fit again, you can just rip out the panels and start all over again! Good luck and Enjoy your new wardrobe! -Angela http://coquiainjelfire.etsy.com/

Platonic Solids Garland from Minieco You don't have to be a math lover to love this fabulous polyhedron garland. Of course, if you are a math girl than you will appreciate the bright and colorful platonic solids even more. You can mix and match the cubes, icosahedrons, tetrahedrons, octahedrons, and dodecahedrons of you can pick one shape and just add a rainbow of colors. The printable 3 dimensional shapes also make fun boxes to hide treats in if you aren't looking for a garland idea. You can get the printable templates to make the platonic solids and directions for making this polyhedron garland over at MiniEco.

Ever since I began experimenting with waves in my weavings, I can’t seem to get enough of them. I love the fluidity and beauty that curves can create. So today, I’m popping in to share 5 wavy weaving techniques that you can add to your own weaving projects. Fun and quirky, waves are a great way to jazz up your weaving repertoire. (If you are brand new to weaving, don’t worry, I’ve got you covered with several links to tutorials that will help you along the way). Some of the techniques I’m sharing today are new on the blog. And I’ll show you exactly how I did them. Others, I’ve shared elsewhere. In these cases, I’ll refer directly to the post where I’ve provided a step-by-step tutorial. Either way, you’ll be learning how to create each and every technique. Let’s get started! MATERIALS loom (see how to DIY your own here) white cotton yarn (for your vertical/warp thread) yarn varieties of your choice (for your horizontal weave) bent weaving needle long weaving needle (like this 5-inch one) scissors For some variety, I added the items below, but they are totally optional: natural wooden beads copper nuts lace ribbon 5 WAVY […]

Free botanical Watercolor Eucalyptus print to download

Are you looking for an easy baby dress pattern or beginners baby romper pattern? OhMeOhMySewing on Etsy is a great place to start!

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