Transform your small home office with 10 actionable design tips! From ergonomic furniture to smart storage, create a productive and inspiring workspace effortlessly
A streamlined office is an efficient workspace! Boost your efficiency with our office built-in ideas!rn
Peldon Rose has developed a new office space for Office Space in Town's new serviced office located at Waterloo in London. Peldon Rose’s long-term client
In the changing world of work, it is important to have a good workspace. Many people are now working from home and they need an area that is designed for
Make your own built-in bookshelf that goes above a desk. A beginner/intermediate project that will elevate your space instantly.
Discover inspiration for a dual-purpose room in your home! Design your home office and guest room with our tips, optimizing space for style and functionality.
Remodeling a Small Office Space, Board and Batten, Floral, Feminem, Cozy Office Decor, Blue Floral Wallpaper, Stunning Office Space - Easy DIY Office Shelves
Autumn work outfits don't get better than this. Here's what to wear to the office when the weather starts to change.
These clever and functional command center ideas will keep your home and family organized and firing on all cylinders at all times!
Make your own built-in bookshelf that goes above a desk. A beginner/intermediate project that will elevate your space instantly.
What's the PERFECT king bed rug size? We're cutting right to the heart of it with the ONLY 7 genius tips you need for rug size for king bed!
Home offices are essential in the era of remote work. In a typical 10 by 12 foot room, how can you best arrange your desk, filing cabinets, and other items in this compact space? In this article, discover 11 incredible 10 by 12 office layout designs that will transform your home workspace. Each layout is […]
Let's get social
Small attic spaces with low ceilings can often feel restrictive or remain unused in many homes. However, with a little creativity and thoughtful design, these cozy nooks can be transformed into functional and aesthetically pleasing
Our 3rd Floor design plan is live! Nordic inspired design has this space feeling bright, cozy, and clean.
A mood board is a tool that helps you put all of your ideas together in one place. Interior designers use mood boards to outline...
Having undergone a refresh at the hands of AD100 designer Mark D. Sikes, the beloved filmmaker’s longtime abode is ready for its close-up
Uncover the perfect color matches for olive green paint colors with expert tips on what colors go with olive green. From sage green to beige, black, and red, explore harmonious combinations to transform your living space.
What if the secret to transforming your bedroom into a bohemian retreat was as simple as choosing the right curtains? Often overlooked, curtains are not just
Visite d'une maison historique pimpée par de la couleur et du design, en Grande Bretagne, un bon exemple de modernisation à découvrir !
Hogwarts, Cambridge, mysterious mansions... It's Dark Academia! This very specific moody aesthetic seemed like it might not catch on, but I think the vibe is
Get more from Aira on Patreon
Men have been parceling out little sanctuaries within their homes for centuries, but the last few decades have seen a resurgence in the concept of the "man cave." This dedicated space is where gentlemen either
Being stuck in your house and working from home was the perfect motivation to spruce up my office. I’d had put in some gorgeous Dalmatian print wallpaper in my old office and missed having a room that makes me smile every time you walk in,...
If you want to learn how to enhance and embrace the history and soul of your old home (especially a craftsman house) then you are in the right place.
If you're obsessed with the dark academia interior design style, you'll want to read this! Tons of practical tips to get the DA look in your own home!
There are two choices when faced with an eyesore that is NOT part of the decor plan.1. Hide it so it just blends in and you forget about it.2. Turn it into a st…
145 m2 fully renovated in the 9th arrondissement of Paris: this is the challenge brilliantly addressed by Vanessa Faivre, the interior designer at the head of A&D Vanessa Faivre.
5+ months in the making, but I did it! I finally finished this blog post! I’m not going to tell you how much I wanted an office that put off European-esque vibes. I am also not going to give you a lengthy story as to why I decided to tackle this project. Instead, let’s just jump into the tutorial. Because let’s be honest. That’s what you are here for. 😉 But first, before pictures. This is what the office looked like in the listing. This is what the office looked like after we moved in. And this is what the office looked like after a fresh coat of paint. From the first time we looked at the house, I had a vision of what this space would be. Given the fact that I was several months pregnant when we moved in, I knew my vision would have to wait so I settled for a fresh coat of paint until I could bring my complete vision to life. To not lose any of the details I sketched out my vision. I highly recommend doing this. By the time I actually started this project, I had sketched this space out at least 6 times. Looking back, I am glad I had all that extra time to perfect this space because it came out better than I ever had anticipated. My final sketch is shown below. Also, the misshaped books on the sketch is the handy work of our 6 year old. I think he did a great job! Now let’s get into the cost breakdown and supply list. Cost breakdownIKEA Billy Bookcases (4) – $196Wood – $269Paint + primer – $95Paint supplies – $37Appliqués – $26Knobs (pack of 8) – $11Inset hinges – $48Total cost: $682 Materials4 – billy bookcases from IkeaPaint & paint suppliesPrimerPaint of choice (I used Lemon Leaves by Magnolia Home)Angled paint brush4” foam rollers (specifically for cabinets and doors)Blue painters tapeTarpPaint stir sticks If you have a paint sprayer, I recommend using that in place of paint brushes and rollers. However, I didn’t have one at the time (I do now) so I tackled it the old fashioned way. AppliquésRose appliqués above archesRose appliqués on center frame pieces Wood4 – 2 x 4 x 12’3 – 1 x 3 x 8’1 – 1 x 10 x 8’ 2 – 1 x 2 x 8’1 – 1 x 4 x 8’ birch plywood sheet For all frame and visible wood pieces (with the exception of the arches) I used poplar wood. Note, I am not going to give you exact measurements since your space will be different than mine. But I did provide the wood dimensions I purchased/used before cutting them to size. ToolsTape measurePencilLevelSafety gogglesN95 maskImpact driverPhillips drill bitCircular sawJigsawMiter sawOrbital sander80 grit sandpaper (optional)120 grit sandpaper220 grit sandpaper220 grit handheld sand blockLint free clothBrad nailer2” finishing nails1” finishing nailsWood glueWood fillerPutty knifeCaulk gunCaulk Step 1: Remove the baseboards and trim then measure your space. Step 2: Build the base for the bookshelves. I used 2 – 2 x 4 x 12’ for the outside base and 12 – 2 x 4 x 8” planks for the crossbars. I secured the base using 3” exterior deck screws. I also secured the base to the back wall using the same 3” deck screws. I personally like using deck screws as they are easy to work with and I’ve never had to deal with the screws stripping. Tip: I cut the planks to 8” because the outside base pieces were 1 1/2” each which made the frame 11” total in width. That is the same width as the bookshelves. Note, there are a couple of height options. Make sure to get the bookcases that fit your space/look you are going for. Our ceilings are 8’ so we purchased the 79 1/2” ones. That left 16 1/2”, which was plenty of room to add arches. Step 3: Assemble the bookshelves if you have not already. Place them on the frame and determine where you want them to be permanently. Then measure the remaining space. You should really do all the math up front to make sure you buy the right amount of bookshelves for your space. For example, our space in total is 135”. The 4 bookcases are 126” total. That left 9” of space. I couldn’t evenly distribute the bookcases, so I spaced them by 1” on the inside which left 3” on the two ends. Note, I knew I wanted cabinets at the bottom, so I measured the tallest item I planned on storing in the cabinet and based the placement of the shelf nearest to the floor on that. Step 4: Add the backboard insert (that came with the bookshelf) or add your own. Then secure the bookcases to the wall. I used 2 – 2 x 3 x 6’ on each end to create the 3” gap and cut 1” pieces for the center. I had to custom cut the 1” pieces using 1 x 3” scrap wood I had on hand since 1” really means 3/4” when using nominal wood. Tip: Make sure to cut out the outlet holes on the backboards before securing the bookcases to the wall. We had two outlets. I used my jigsaw to cut the holes. If you don’t plan to paint the bookcases or fill in the holes then you can completely skip the next step. Step 5: Determine where you want to put the shelves permanently then fill in the remaining holes. I used light weight spackling paste and a putty knife to fill the holes. After the spackling was dry, I used my orbital sander and 120 grit sandpaper to sand all the bookcases. Sanding the bookcases before priming + painting is critical when using these bookshelves. They are crazy inexpensive because they are made out of particle board with a laminate casing. That means no sanding and priming will result in the paint easily scratching and ultimately peeling off. After sanding everything, I wiped the bookcases clean with a damp lint free cloth. Step 6: Make the arch template. I had to make two templates since the 2 arches on the ends had wider outer frames. Actually, I made 5 total. See below. Tip: I used the cardboard boxes the bookcases came in to create a template. I wasn’t 100% sure what I wanted them to look like. After cutting 4 different styles I ultimately went with the classic arch. I cut the cardboard to the size I needed the actual arch. I tied twine to a pencil, found the bottom center of the cardboard, held my finger down on the twine, traced the arch, then used a box cutter to cut out the arch. There are also tools out there designed to give you the perfect arch. I chose to do it the hard way. 😅 Step 7: Cut the arches out using a jigsaw. I used a new wood blade with 12 TPI. I cut the 4 x 8’ birch plywood sheet into 4 sections with my circular saw first. Then used the arch template to trace onto each of the 4 pieces. Note: You should wear safety goggles to prevent debris getting in your eyes. Step 8: Secure a 2 x 4 to the ceiling directly above the bookcases using 3” exterior deck screws. The 2 x 4 is what you will secure the arches to. You’ll want to use a level to make sure the 2 x 4 is flush with the bookcases. Step 9: Sand the arches using an orbital sander and 220 grit sandpaper. If the area where you cut the arches is a little rough, use 80 grit sandpaper to level it out then 220 to give it a smooth finish. Step 11: Cut the frame pieces. Step 10: Secure the arches to the 2 x 4 and bookcases using a brad nailer with 2” finishing nails. I cut the bottom frame piece first to use as a guide for the vertical trim. I sanded it with 220 grit sandpaper, then secure it before measuring and cutting the remaining frame pieces. I used 1 – 1 x 8 x 12’. There was a small gap at the bottom, so I used 1” half moon trim to hide it. I secured the bottom frame piece where it was level with the bottom shelf of the bookcases for a smooth transition. I then cut the remaining frame pieces. I had to custom cut the 2 outer frame pieces to 3 3/4” wide using 1 – 1 x 10 x 8’. I used my circular saw. I used decorative trim I found at Lowe’s for the ends. This is what the bookcases looked like after adding all the trim. If you are adding cabinet doors you’ll need to cut 1 x 2” pieces to size to secure along the lip of the bottom shelf. Because the shelf sits a little more inside the bookcase I had to use paint stir sticks to ensure the 1 x 2” trim pieces sit flush with the rest of the frame. If you do not plan to add doors, you can skip this step. Step 12: Sand all the frame pieces with 120 grit then 220 grit sandpaper for that ultra smooth finish. I secured the frame to the shelves and base using my brad nailer and 2” finishing nails. Step 13: Add wood filler to all cracks, crevices, and nail holes. Allow the wood filler to dry then sand with 220 grit sandpaper. Step 14: Use caulk to seal the space between the ceiling and frame as well as any visible gaps. Step 15: Prime everything and allow the primer to dry overnight. I cannot stress this step enough. Step 16: Paint the bookcases. I applied two coats of paint total. Allowing the first coat to dry before applying the second coat. I went with Lemon Leaves by Magnolia Home in Eggshell finish. Tip: Lightly sand in between paint coats with a handheld 220 grit sand block for that ultra smooth finish. Step 17: (Optional) Prime, paint, and secure the wood appliqués to the bookcases where desired. To secure them you’ll need wood glue and then a brad nailer with 1” finishing nails. I used THESE appliqués above the arches and THESE appliqués on the center frame pieces. Step 18: Style your new shelves! After waiting for 2+ months we finally got an electrician here to install THIS overhead light. Isn’t it a dream? I filled the shelves with things that I love. Old and new books, candles with character, a portrait of a horse, an original painting of flowers, a photo of my dad, Linnea candles, plants, and moody vases. For those wondering, I built the desk. Tutorial coming soon! For video content and BTS on this project visit my Instagram @acarriedaffairdesigns I saved all my stories to my story highlights titled “Office built-ins” For the tutorial on the DIY shaker style cabinet doors click HERE. I linked some of the items I used to style the shelves below + the chair. And that’s a wrap! For those that have been asking for this tutorial, I am sorry it took me 5 months. Hopefully you find this inspiring to create a space that you love. For more DIY follow me on Instagram @acarriedaffairdesigns Until next time friends. Xo Shop This Post