Ein runder Rücken kann zu Passform-Problemen bei selbstgenähter Kleidung führen. Mit dieser Schnittanpassung sitzt alles perfekt.
Ich zeige Dir, wie ich bei der Strickjacke Minna die Nahttaschen optimiert habe, so dass sie sich sauber und einfach verarbeiten lassen.
Learn how to manipulate darts using the slash & spread and pivot method. It's a very easy technique. Moving darts will soon be like second nature to you!
How to make a sewing pattern bigger or smaller - sewing pattern grading - make a sewing pattern a different size
Today is the fourth installment in the Blackwood Cardigan Sewalong! We are going to wrap up the adjustments portion of the process today with narrow and broad shoulder adjustments. Tomorrow we will ... Read More
Um einen Ärmel zu konstruieren müsst ihr den Armlochumfang von Schnitt des Vorderteils sowie des Rückteils messen und addieren. Das ist...
Today is the fourth installment in the Blackwood Cardigan Sewalong! We are going to wrap up the adjustments portion of the process today with narrow and broad shoulder adjustments. Tomorrow we will ... Read More
A Dart is simply a fold sewn into fabric to help provide a three-dimensional or structured shape to a garment. They are frequently used in clothing to tailor the garment to the wearer's shape. They confine unneeded fullness at the pattern's edge. They can have one or two pointed ends, depending on style. Some people mark in the centre line of the dart, which just indicates the fold line.
An innovative technique for pattern alteration that's simple to understand and easy to do, offering options other techniques don't.
Abnäher nähen - wozu? wo? wie? || Kleine Abnäherkunde || beswingtesAllerlei.de
Erfahre, welche wichtigen Regeln du beim Verändern deiner Schnittmuster einhalten solltest, damit die Änderungen klappen.
Wie du bei deinem selbstgenähten Oberteil die Schultern enger oder breiter machen kannst, zeige ich dir in diesem Blogartikel
Reshaping armholes to facilitate proper range of motion is probably my least favorite thing to do. After setting it all up -aligning pattern pieces along the grain and matching join points- this is…
How to do a full bust adjustment and a small bust adjustment, from patterns with darts to princess seams to patterns with no darts, there's a method here
How to do a full bust adjustment and a small bust adjustment, from patterns with darts to princess seams to patterns with no darts, there's a method here
Today is the second post in a 2 part series on doing full bust adjustments on patterns without any darts. For the first post, we covered a quick and dirty ‘pivot ... Read More
Pattern adjustments are often necessary to achieve a custom fit. Learn to do a high round back adjustment with this photo tutorial. It’s a simple adjustment that can make an enormous differen…
FINALLY! -- IT IS READY! -- WELL, MOST OF IT IS. DISCLAIMER: This is in no way intended to be a complete description of all the different issues regarding crotch fit. It is ONLY a discussion of my own personal journey and the conclusions I have come to. I hope it will help you if you are new at sewing. It sure would have helped me when I was a new sewer. First, you need to watch these two videos so you can learn HOW to make your "fish bowl" (as Phylly calls it). You cannot make the corrections to your pants pattern if you don't have the "fish bowl". #1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iv7F111VHUQ #2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EU-OKoV3PAs The book referenced in the video is: Fitting & Pattern Alteration by Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasband and Della Pottberg-Steineckert As I understand it, this is a college course book. I know Lorraine Henry sells it at her shows. You can google it to find other sources. Phylly and I both have it, and we HIGHLY recommend it. Warning: It is about $100. This tutorial teaches you about the crotch curve information in this book as I have applied it to my patterns. There is MUCH, MUCH more about every kind of alteration and correction imagineable in the book. Now, you need to draw your bowls -- hopefully, you have a bendy curve. By the way, you have to put the three rubberbands on the curve yourself -- they don't come with it. Here is a picture of my bowl next to Phylly's: Here is a picture of Phylly's bowl ON TOP of my bowl. This should show you right away why there is a crotch curve issue in the first place. How on earth could we use the same crotch curve that comes in the pattern? Even if it happened to fit one of us, it would not fit the other one. I would like to tell you Sure-Fit Design owners that Glenda's way of measuring crotch length with the add 1, subtract 1 system, comes quite close to a very good fit. I wouldn't even mess with this unless your bottom drops below your crotch, or your back crotch is quite long like mine is. It is easy to get depth and length mixed together and not know which to fix. Following is a picture of a brand new pants pattern BEFORE making any corrections to it. (Note: This has nothing to do with Sure-Fit Designs, but I could use an SFD blueprint and correct it the same way.) I have my crotch point lined up with the pattern's crotch point. The first thing I notice is how much higher the waist is than mine. If I just made this pattern up, I wouldn't know it I needed to fix the crotch DEPTH or the LENGTH or BOTH. I would know, however, that they did NOT fit right. I can either shorten the pattern now, or just draw the hipline on it to fix the crotch curve, and shorten the depth later. I think I did both. In this picture, notice how the hipline of the FRONT and the BACK of the paper pattern line exactly up with my BOWL hipline. Also, the crotch line lines up all the way across. Notice how my bottom drops LOWER than the crotch line. I have heard Peggy Sagers say this is impossible, but there's the proof right there. It is very common AND a very good reason crotch curves have to be adjusted! This pictures shows my bowl lined up with the crotch line and the low hip line of the BACK pattern piece. I have matched the hip line of my bowl at the STITCHING line at the hip line on the pattern. HOW did I find the hip line on the pattern???? This was a real issue for me, but so simple. MEASURE IT there on your bowl. Taaa Daaaa!!!! Notice too that the crotch point on my bowl -- NOT the bottom of the bowl -- lines up with the crotch line on the paper pattern. You can see the blue dashed line where I simply traced the bottom of my bowl from the hip line to MY crotch point (where the rubber band was). The book shows several ways to trim the pattern and push it and pull it and slide it and ...... I just traced my shape. Notice in this picture: The PINK original crotch curve of the paper pattern. The BLUE crotch curve made with my bowl. BIG DIFFERENCE!!! Notice in this picture how part of my curve is HIGHER (blue) and part of my curve is LOWER (pink) than the paper pattern's. Notice how much LENGTH (green) I had to add to the back crotch. Notice how my bottom drops BELOW the crotchline. Below is ME in between the CORRECTED paper pattern pieces. You can see I will fit into that curve exactly right. It turned out that there was not much of a correction at all on the front pattern piece, so I haven't shown it with changes. Notice that I simply tapered my new extended BACK CROTCH POINT down to about the knee level, and I curved it in a bit. URGENT AND VERY IMPORTANT TIP: Make very sure you put your inseams together as though you were going to sew your pants together. The front is probably not going to fit the back anymore after that correction. You will have to lower or raise the crotch point on the front so it will sew to the back. In this case, it was only about 1/2" difference. Begin by matching the seams at the BOTTOM HEM edge of the pant and match them going up to the crotch. You will see right away if you need to make an adjustment. I hope I didn't make this sound too complicated. It was VERY complicated for me for a long time. It helps so very much to have a sewing buddy to swap thoughts with. You know what they say: Two heads are better than one! Hugs, Joy
In diesem Artikel lernt ihr, wie ihr Schnittmuster für Blusen, Shirts und Tops an eure individuelle Schulterbreite anpassen könnt.
From the purchases we make to the sewing patterns we use, reducing waste in your sewing practice is possible. Read on to learn about zero-waste sewing patterns, which use 100% of fabric yardage with no scraps or waste. There are many ways to reduce waste in your sewing room: using scraps creatively, buying items without… This post is only available to members.
Sewing vintage patterns from the 1940's, 1950's and early 1960's is fun, but getting the right look often requires sewing methods we don't s...
Comparing your chest, waist and hips to a pattern sizing chart is a no-brainer to select your size, right? However, there is a crucial fit point that you may be overlooking. One that really makes or breaks your fit: the shoulder width. Garments that fit well in the bodice but have saggy shoulders, just look a little sa
Today we’re going to talk about creating removable knee pads and we will be adding a gusset to the Jutland Pants! I’m adding both of these features to the heavy work pants I’m making for my Uncle. My inspiration is the brand of pants my Uncle likes to wear (Kühl) which always include a gusset. Creating Removable Knee
Good Morning All!!! Playing around with darts is something I have enjoyed from the first moment I began to learn anything about pattern drafting. I'm sure you've seen pictures like the one below, interesting, but intimidating for sure. The picture gives ideas, but no instruction about how to actually move the darts around. It also seems rather dated. But, take a look at the picture below, a lovely vintage Vogue pattern, right out of the 1940's. The dress was lovely then and now. Now take a look at this dress. Same idea as above, but with a very modern take. Here's another idea on creating dart interest. Notice that the darts are actually sewn so that they show on the outside of the garment. The middle dart radiates to the bust point, but the other 2 are above and below the bust. Here's another idea of creating interest with darts. Once again they are sewn to the outside of the garment, and extra interest was added by inserting leather. To create the skirt below, the darts were incorporated into the princess seam lines. The darts along the outside panels offer nothing more than interest. The dress below shows how the darts of the bodice were divided and then formed to radiate from the waistline over the bust. The design was repeated in the skirt where the skirt waist darts were rotated to the side seam and then flared out over the hips. Here's another lovely example of radiating darts creating interest with this Decades of Style pattern. With the dress below, all of the darts were rotated to the shoulder and developed into tuck of flange, which works beautifully with the draped back. Below is a wonderful example of darts that create an illusion of fit. The top is a Marcy Tilton pattern. There is a slight amount of fit at the waistline, but the darts give the illusion of more fit than there actually is. Here's the flat drawing of the blouse. Just a lovely use of dart manipulation. You can find the pattern HERE if you are interested. It's a style that would look great on just about every body type. Here's another fabulous use of dart rotating. Darts were rotated to create the princess seam line and then moved into the neckline. A dress that at first looks very simple is really quite complicated. Great design! The dress is from the Reem Acra Spring 2013 collection. The entire collection, although 2 years is old, is lovely wand well worth a look. If you would like to give rotating darts a try, just google "dart manipulation" and you should be able to find how it is done. It's basically quite simple. Get a basic bodice, draw in a line where you would like a dart to be, cut on that line and then close up the existing dart. Like magic a new dart will open up! Hope your week is off to a lovely start! Rhonda
Hello ... is it me you're looking for? Well poke me in the eye with a seam ripper. I can't believe it's been over 2 1/2 months since my last blog post! I blame in part seasons 1-3 of 'The Walking Dead'; what is it about a zombie apocalypse that is so freaking addictive? But mainly I have been a very busy lady. Here's a quick catch up: I just got back from vacationing in Italy (amazing!!) with a six month old child (wow) and bought myself a lot of stunning Italian leather and lace I'm currently a judge in the fabulous 'Super Online Sewing Match' hosted by Sew Mama Sew which is absolutely inspiring. Check the competition out if you haven't already! I'm also involved with another exciting upcoming project which I can't tell you about yet, but I'm so looking forward to. Oh how sneaky! I'm taking part in the Handmaker's Factory Miette Cardigan Knit-A-long and you should too! Yeah that's right, I knit now; like a boss. I've made a bunch of clothes that I will be posting about soon. Just completed a short course in Pattern Making and absolutely loved it! I am a little bit in love with Kate the teacher who knows her shiz. And finally, you may have noticed that my blog has been given a bit of a make over! Tutorial: How to move a dart One of the simple and effective things that I learnt and loved from my recent course in Pattern Making, is how to move darts and and create design lines without cutting and slashing your pattern. It amazes me how easy this is. Maybe you have a bodice you want to make out of lace and the darts are in a position that interupts the flow of the lace pattern. This tutorial will show you how to move that dart to where ever you choose. Things you'll need: Bodice pattern piece Tracing paper Pencil and eraser Ruler Awl Tracing wheel One Long Island Iced Tea - for pattern making inspiration Really old nail polish job. Wow my nails look ah-maz-ing Let's Do This Summary The images below show the original pattern with two darts, and our final pattern with the darts moved into one at the side. Tracing your original pattern 1. Get your bodice front pattern piece. Trace off a copy if you don't want to mark your original. I have drawn mine onto a piece of cardboard for more stability. Note: My pattern piece doesn't have seam allowance added yet. I find it easier to see the true shape of the pattern without getting confused with allowances. 2. Find your bust point on your pattern and make a mark there for your reference. The bust point is drawn in blue, and the original darts I have drawn in red. Tip: If your pattern doesn't have the bust point marked, hold up the pattern piece on yourself or on a dress form and mark with a pen the fullest point of your bust. This will be your bust point. Generally the darts are pointed towards the bust point. 3. Draw a circle around the bust point with a radius of 3cm. You can see mine in green. Note: The length of the radius is up to you, generally the smaller circle is for a smaller bust and the larger for the fuller bust. See that lovely circle we just made around the bust point? That's our no-go dart zone. This will make sense soon. Positioning your new dart 4. On your pattern piece draw a line where you would like your dart to go. Your line will need to start from the edge of the pattern piece and finish at the bust point. I have done mine in pencil. Tip: If you are moving a dart to a side seam, draw the line on an angle and not horizontally which is more flattering and looks more pleasing to the eye. 5. Place your pattern piece on top of a large piece of blank tracing paper. Mark on your tracing paper where your bust point is. Starting at the line you have just drawn you are going to trace your pattern piece in one direction, until you come to your first pre-existing dart. Tip: Keep the pattern piece as steady as you can to avoid distorting the shape. Place a weight over the centre if it helps. Closing off the original darts In the next steps we are going to remove the original darts and create our new dart. 6. Once you come to your first dart, mark a notch at the first dart leg for your reference. Using your awl at the apex of your dart carefully pivot your pattern piece until the second leg of the dart lines up with the notch of the first leg. Tip: If you don't have an awl, you can use a sharp pencil or the point of a fine pair of scissors to act as your pivot tool. See how the pattern piece has now moved?! You have just closed off that dart! 7. Continue tracing around the pattern piece until you come to you next dart and repeat the process. Once you have no more darts on your pattern, continue tracing until you come to your dart line that you drew on to your pattern piece and stop. Completing the new dart 8. Remove your pattern from the tracing paper and have a look! See that big open gape, that's your new dart! (almost) 9. With a pencil and a ruler, draw in your dart legs going all the way into the bust point. Remember your no-go dart zone? Make a mark at the edge of the bust circle (3cm away from bust point), making sure that it is centred between the two openings. 10. Draw your two dart legs from that new apex to the openings on your pattern piece. This is your new dart! Depending on how close the base of the dart is to the bust point, will determine how long or how wide the dart is. But don't worry, the dart value is still the same. Tip: Both dart legs should be exactly the same length, so get your ruler and make sure they are the same. 11. Now you will carefully fold one of the dart legs to meet the second so that the dart is closed off. Score the new dart legs with a pen or pencil to make it easy to fold. Tip: The direction of the dart is up to you, but generally the bulk of the dart is folded towards to the centre of the garment. Tip 2: By folding your dart you're making the piece 3D. To make it easier to fold, place the apex of the dart on the corner of a table. 12. If traced correctly, your two dart legs should meet so that it becomes one continuous line. With your tracing wheel, trace over the dart edge where the bulk of the paper is folded under. 13. Open up your pattern piece. The dots on your pattern made by your tracing wheel is the finished shape of your dart. Trace over it with a pencil. Tip: If you don't have a tracing wheel, use an awl or the edge of a pair of scissors to mark along the line instead. 14. Add your seam allowance to your pattern piece and you're done! You now have a new bodice with your measurements, but with the dart in a different spot! 15. It's Long Island Iced Tea time - you're done! What do you think guys? Are you going to give this a go? Have fun with your new patterns! 1. Starting the knit-a-long 2. Fabric splurge in Italy 3. My finished knitted sleeve 4. Harry and I on the beach in Italy.
Learn how to sew a long sleeve raglan sweatshirt with this easy to follow sewing tutorial and free pattern in size L.
If you want to use a pattern that is too small, or too big, you need to know the way garments differ in proportion from one size to another.
Before you begin your pattern cutting journey, it's really important that you know the difference between pattern blocks and sewing patterns
Today is the second post in a 2 part series on doing full bust adjustments on patterns without any darts. For the first post, we covered a quick and dirty ‘pivot ... Read More
Today on the blog we are talking about how to perform a Full Bust Adjustment on a princess seam bodice like the Karri dress pattern.
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Дневник adelaidaivi Виртуальный дневник adelaidaivi Темы:Проще простого: йод, хвойный отвар и лавровый лист. Бабушкины рецепты., Пирожки из "уникального" теста!, Как касторовое масло помогае...
Today is the fourth installment in the Blackwood Cardigan Sewalong! We are going to wrap up the adjustments portion of the process today with narrow and broad shoulder adjustments. Tomorrow we will ... Read More
