“I hadn’t looked through the books in ages and the magic of it just all came back.”
“I hadn’t looked through the books in ages and the magic of it just all came back.”
This is a PDF Knitting pattern, instant download! This is such a sweet project to knit up and give as a gift or keep for yourself. A nostalgic hair bow perfect for any occasion. Knit in a fuzzy wool and its wonderful for winter or a light airy cotton and it's perfect for summer days! Very simple pattern- perfect for a new knitter or a fun loving advanced knitter! Sizing: Small (Large) Size of Finished Bow: Small Size: 5.5 inches wide by 7.5 inches long Large Size: 8 inches wide by 8.5 inched long Note: A child age 5 is wearing the size Small in the pattern photos and an adult is wearing size Large. Yarn Requirements: Fingering weight held with a strand of lace weight mohair OR Worsted weight yarn Suggested Yarn: Knit Picks- Capretta- Fingering weight Hobbii Mohair- Lace weight Gauge: 12 sts across by 15 sts tall- measured over stockinette knit flat and blocked Suggested Needles: US 7/ 4.5 mm Notions: Scissors Darning Needle Extras Needed to finish bow: Hair tie OR Hair Clip
Earflap hats are often reminiscent of childhoods past, but kids shouldn't be the only ones who get to enjoy a good earflap knit hat. Relive your glory years with the nostalgic North Shore Hat. With this easy knit hat pattern, you won't even have to sacrifice sophistication for the comfort and joy this knit earflap hat is sure to bring. With easy-to-follow instructions and only the use of the basic knitting stitches, the North Shore Hat can easily be taken on by beginner knitters looking to learn how to knit a hat just in time for the cooler nights ahead. The bulkier yarn and larger needles also makes this project a quick knit, so you'll have your very own earflap hat in no time at all.
This is a PDF Knitting pattern, instant download! This is such a sweet project to knit up and give as a gift or keep for yourself. A nostalgic hair bow perfect for any occasion. Knit in a fuzzy wool and its wonderful for winter or a light airy cotton and it's perfect for summer days! Very simple pattern- perfect for a new knitter or a fun loving advanced knitter! Sizing: Small (Large) Size of Finished Bow: Small Size: 5.5 inches wide by 7.5 inches long Large Size: 8 inches wide by 8.5 inched long Note: A child age 5 is wearing the size Small in the pattern photos and an adult is wearing size Large. Yarn Requirements: Fingering weight held with a strand of lace weight mohair OR Worsted weight yarn Suggested Yarn: Knit Picks- Capretta- Fingering weight Hobbii Mohair- Lace weight Gauge: 12 sts across by 15 sts tall- measured over stockinette knit flat and blocked Suggested Needles: US 7/ 4.5 mm Notions: Scissors Darning Needle Extras Needed to finish bow: Hair tie OR Hair Clip
Augustins no. 8 is a blouse with a nostalgic shape and feel. Knitted top-down on large needles with a straight body and puffy sleeves, the design is simplistic in its construction. The aesthetics of the blouse is highly influenced by its low-cut back as well as the ribbing and picot edges of the collar and the sleeves. The garment has a folded edge at the bottom of the body and a finishing i-cord edge running along the neckline. To highlight the waist and sculpt the silhuet of the blouse, 2 braided ribbons is added in each side. Size : a (b) c (d) e (f). Your bust circumference: 80-85 (85-90) 90-95 (95-100) 100-110 (110-120) cm. Yarn : The blouse is knitted with 3 strands held together. Note that the Mohair is held double. 1. thread: New Zealand Lambswool, G-uld (450 m pr 100g). 2. + 3. thread: Soft Silk Mohair, Knitting for Olive (225 m pr 25g). Gauge : 10 sts x 14 rows = 10 cm in Stockinette Stitch. Amount : Lambswool: 150 (150) 200 (200) 250 (250)g / Mohair: 150 (150) 200 (200) 250 (250)g. Length, measured CF below the neck : 50 (52) 54 (56) 58 (60) cm, or preferred length. Needle size : Circular needles, 8 + 10 mm ( 40 / 60 / 80 cm). Other : Elastic band for the wrist. Method: First, the blouse is knitted back and forth in Stockinette Stitch, whilst increases for the shoulders and sleeves are made. Then, the work is gathered, creating the low-cut back, and from that point onwards it’s knitted in the round. It has a folded bottom edge, whilst the collar and parts of the sleeves are knitted in ribbing with a finishing picot edge. At each side of the waist, a braided ribbon is attached.
just a quick note to say merry christmas and a happy new year and i thought i would end on a photograph i picked up yesterday at spitalfields antiques market - in fact, i think it could have had my name on it...... the photograph actually turns out to be a numbered print by the victorian photographer Frank Meadow Sutcliffe - known for his photography of fisherman and sailing ships along the whitby coast. from what i can make out, most of his work was done on large 9 x 7 inch glass plates (which i think was the done deal in those days) - essentially he would carry around a portable darkroom in order to take his photos. wonder what he would think of photography today.
Introducing our BRETON JERSEY. Everyday ease and gently relaxed. Made from our 100% certified, organic cotton in Portugal. A subtle dropped sleeve that doesn't lose shape and structure, and a clean wide neck trim. Finished with a bespoke label from artist Sally Newton. A classic Breton stripe, long-sleeve top.
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Vintage-inspired knitted dolls, a nostalgic addition to any doll collection or decor.
Knit hats for babies and kids are one of the most loved projects for mommies and grandmas, aren't they? Check out these free patterns.
Ever since I was a little girl, I've loved corking. I guess that's why I wrote a book on it! Corking is an unusual name for a really fun craft. This form of knitting has other names, too, such as spool knitting or French knitting. I recently bought a lovely old-fashioned corker: Through the years, I've made pot holders, small rugs, chair pads, bendable animals, hair bands, puppets, scarves and many more items out of my corking. I'm tickled to have another use for it: I've stitched a loopy length onto the top of a wee baby cap that I just finished knitting. What fun! This summer I'll be doing a couple of corking workshops at the Little Red Mitten yarn shop. Details to follow! All the best, Judy Ann
⭑ NOSTALGIC SCALLOPED KNIT CROPPED CARDIGAN ⭑ A SHARED PROJECT WITH JENNY WALTON ⭑ STRUCTURED AND TECHNICAL HANDFEEL ⭑ DEADSTOCK 72% MAKO COTTON 28% ELITE FROM LINEAPELLE, ITALY ⭑ SUSTAINABLY MADE IN CHINA 中国制造
Augustins no. 16 is a sculptural and voluminous blouse with puffy sleeves, ruffles and a draped skirt, which give it a nostalgic feel. The neckline is squared and the upper part of the body is fitted, which is highlighted by the ribbons at the waist. Size : a (b) c (d) e (f) g (h). Your bust circumference : 80 (90) 100 (110) 120 (130) 140 (150) cm. Full length, measured from the shoulder and downwards : 52 (54) 56 (58) 60 (62) 64 (66) cm. Positive ease : This blouse is created to be fitted around the bust, and are therefore without any positive ease. The fit is free from the waist down and at the sleeves. When you’re deciding which size to knit, choose the one which corresponds to your own actual bust circumference. Gauge : 16 sts x 22 rows = 10 x 10 cm in Stockinette Stitch at needle size 6 mm. Needle size : Circular needles 4,5 + 5 + 6 mm ( 40 / 60 / 80 cm). Yarn : The blouse is knitted with 2 types of yarn held together. 1st thread: “Alpaca / Merino / Cotton Fluff”, Sabina Siestø (400 m pr 100g). 2nd thread: “Silk Mohair”, Sabina Siestø (420 m pr 50g). Or, alternatively the following combination: 1st thread: “New Zealandsk lammeuld”, G-uld (450 m pr 100g). 2nd thread: “Soft Silk Mohair”, Knitting for Olive (225 m pr 25g). Amount : 1st thread: 300 (350) 400 (450) 500 (550) 600 (650)g. 2nd thread: 150 (175) 200 (225) 250 (275) 300 (325)g. Other : Thin elastic band (approx 2 mm) for the neckline and waist. The use of elastic band is important for the blouse to obtain the right fit! Work : The blouse is knitted top-down in the round in Stockinette Stitch. First, the top of the blouse is knitted and then, when reaching the waist, increases are made to create the voluminous peplum skirt, which is finished by a folded hem. Stitches for the puffy sleeves are then picked up along the cast on row of the top. The sleeves are worked in the round and each has a broad folded wrist hem, which creates the sculpted effect of the sleeve. Hereafter, stitches are picked up along the neckline to create a finishing i-cord edge and ruffle. Lastly, 2 shaped ribbons are knitted in the round and attached at each side of the top. The blouse is finished by inserting an elastic band into the hem of the waist and neckline.
Iris Bloom Bonnet First and foremost: yes, this yarn is divine. Simply heavenly. Gorgeous, lovely to knit, and beautifully variegated. But even if you don't have or can't find this particular fiber, you're in luck, because I have a sneaking suspicion that this super fun hat would look great in almost any worsted weight yarn. And if that's not incentive enough to make this hat, then consider this: I actually wrote up two patterns for this little beauty - one version that includes knitting in the round, and one that's made entirely on straight needles. Both begin in the same way, below. Note as of 11/24/15: This hat fits like an adult small. I have adapted the in-the-round version of the pattern for an adult large in the comments below. :) Update February 22, 2021: For some reason, the comments no longer seem to work on this post. Please email me with any questions at [email protected]. Yarn: Malabrigo Rios (100% Merino Superwash; 210 yards [192 meters]/100 grams); #416 Indiecita - one skein This stitch pattern makes me wanna say "yeah!" My kids would be so embarrassed. Needles: One set of straight needles in size US 5, one set of straight needles in size US 7, one 16" circular needle in size US 7, and one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 7 (if you're knitting it entirely on straight needles, you don't need the circulars or dpns) Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette So let's get started! For either version of this hat, we'll be working from the brim of the piece, and we'll begin by working back and forth rather than in the round. As such, using your straight needles in size US 5, cast on 118 stitches loosely. Then work the following rows: Edging Row 1 (wrong side): p2, * k2, p2; rep from * Edging Row 2: k2, * p2, k2 * Knit rows 1 & 2 until the piece measures just over 1" and you've just finished Edging Row 1. Then we'll knit one marker placement row, as follows: Marker Placement Row (right side): k2, (p2, k2) 4 times, place marker, (p2, k2) 20 times, p2, place marker, k2, * p2, k2 * until end of row Complete this marker placement row and switch to your straight size US 7 needles. Then, we'll begin the main pattern, which is Knit-Twist Lattice from page 149 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. To do it, you'll need the following notation: rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right) You can also find videos for these techniques below: And once you've got that down, we'll proceed like so: Row 1 and all odd rows (wrong side): purl, slipping extra markers when you come to them Row 2: ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, * lt, k4, rt * until you have 1 stitch left before second marker, k1, slip marker, ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (114 stitches) Row 4: ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k2, * lt, k2, rt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (110 stitches) Row 6: ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, k3, slip marker, ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (106 stitches) Row 8: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k4, * rt, k6 * until you're 6 stitches before second marker, rt, k4, slip marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (104 stitches) Row 10: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k3, * rt, lt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker, rt, lt, k3, slip marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (102 stitches) Row 12: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k2, * rt, k2, lt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (100 stitches) Row 14: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, * rt, k4, lt * until you're 1 stitch before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (98 stitches) Row 16: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k8, * lt, k6 * until you're 2 stitches before second marker, k2, slip marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (96 stitches) Knit rows 1 - 16. At this point, our pattern diverges - first, I will give instructions for how to proceed with this hat in the round. After that, you'll find instructions for finishing it up on straight needles. So, first, the in the round version: Now that we've finished these 16 rows, you should be about to begin a wrong side row. Instead of doing that, however, we're going to join this bad boy in the round. With that in mind, transfer work to your 16" circular needle in size US 7, place marker, and join in round. And then we'll continue like so: Row 1 and all odd rows: knit, slipping extra markers when you come to them Row 2: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * lt, k4, rt * until you have 1 stitch left before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 4: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * lt, k2, rt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 6: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, k3, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k4, * rt, k6 * until you're 6 stitches before second marker, rt, k4, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * rt, lt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker, rt, lt, k3, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 12: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * rt, k2, lt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 14: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * rt, k4, lt * until you're 1 stitch before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 16: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k8, * lt, k6 * until you're 2 stitches before second marker, k2, slip marker, knit until end of round Knit rows 1 - 16, and then knit row 1 again, removing extra markers when you come to them. Now it's time to begin the decrease portion of the hat, which goes as follows: Row 1: knit Row 2: * k10, k2tog * (88 stitches) Rows 3 & 4: knit Row 5: * k9, k2tog * (80 stitches) Row 6: knit Row 7: * k8, k2tog * (72 stitches) Row 8: knit You will probably want to switch to your dpns about now... Row 9: * k7, k2tog * (64 stitches) Row 10: * k6, k2tog * (56 stitches) Row 11: * k5, k2tog * (48 stitches) Row 12: * k4, k2tog * (40 stitches) Row 13: * k3, k2tog * (32 stitches) Row 14: * k2, k2tog * (24 stitches) Row 15: * k1, k2tog * (16 stitches) Row 16: * k2tog * (8 stitches) Knit rows 1 - 16, clip your yarn tail, and thread through final 8 stitches. Pull tight, thread to inside of hat, and knot. And now skip to the verrrrrry end of the post (right above the pictures), for the last bit of instructions. And while you in-the-round knitters are doing that, I'll finish up with the straight needle knitters. So if you're working on straight needles, pick up here! Last I left you, you had just finished knitting 16 rows in pattern with decreases. You're going to be continuing in much the same fashion at this point, except without the decreases. So let's proceed like so: Row 1 and all wrong side rows: purl, slipping extra markers when you come to them Row 2: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * lt, k4, rt * until you have 1 stitch left before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 4: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * lt, k2, rt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 6: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, k3, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k4, * rt, k6 * until you're 6 stitches before second marker, rt, k4, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * rt, lt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker, rt, lt, k3, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 12: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * rt, k2, lt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 14: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * rt, k4, lt * until you're 1 stitch before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 16: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k8, * lt, k6 * until you're 2 stitches before second marker, k2, slip marker, knit until end of round Knit rows 1 - 16 and then knit row 1 again, removing extra markers when you work it. Now it's time to begin the decrease portion of the hat, which goes as follows: Row 1 (right side): knit Row 2: * p2tog, p10 * (88 stitches) Row 3: knit Row 4: purl Row 5: * k9, k2tog * (80 stitches) Row 6: purl Row 7: * k8, k2tog * (72 stitches) Row 8: purl Row 9: * k7, k2tog * (64 stitches) Row 10: * p2tog, p6 * (56 stitches) Row 11: * k5, k2tog * (48 stitches) Row 12: * p2tog, p4 * (40 stitches) Row 13: * k3, k2tog * (32 stitches) Row 14: * p2tog, p2 * (24 stitches) Row 15: * k1, k2tog * (16 stitches) Row 16: * p2tog * (8 stitches) Knit decrease rows 1 - 16, and then thread final 8 stitches to a scrap of yarn to hold for later. Beginning from where you stopped doing decreases in the original pattern (and where the in-the-round knitters switched to the round), seam hat. When you reach the top, pull seaming thread through final 8 stitches and pull tight. Thread to inside of hat and knot. And now, for both in-the-round and straight needle knitters, we'll wrap up like so: Make 2 roughly 6" yarn tassels (instructions here) and attach to bottom corners of hat. Tuck in ends. Finally, if you completed this hat in the round, you may want to knot together the two stitches where you joined this hat in the round - although it should be fine structurally either way, knotting them will prevent them from pulling apart when this hat is worn. And let's face it - with a hat this cute, you're going to be wearing it a LOT.
Cool like that: a perfect crew-neck tank you’ll reach for repeatedly. She has a variegated-rib knit that feels both nostalgic and modern. 100% Peruvian pima cotton Classic variegated-rib knit with a soft, luxurious handfeel Made in Peru Body length: 22 ½” Machine wash
NOW IN STOCK SHIPPING FROM LOS ANGELES Crafted with care in the style of nostalgic elegance, the Elena Handbags Retro Artsy Twist Cotton Knitted Bag is a timeless accessory to carry you through any occasion. Made of natural cotton, this handmade and retro-inspired bag ensures a sophisticated style, perfect for any fashion connoisseur. Size: 10in x 9in Strap drop length: 12.6in Interior: Linen lining, zipper closure, inner pocket Please clean carefully with mild soap or toothpaste. Do not machine wash. Do not bleach. Do not iron. Designer Style ID: 8474 Retro Artsy Twist Cotton Knitted Shoulder Bag, Hand Woven, Fashion Casual Bag, Gift for Her, Women's Woven Bag
What could be better than wrapping your feet in snug, squishy garter stitch? This is a very simple pattern that any beginner could easily tackle, while its nostalgic appeal and endless adaptability make it a fun project for even the most experienced knitter.
Some of my wonderful knitting friends over on the KNITFreedom Ravelry group have wondered how to do a stretchy invisible bind off on 2x2 ribbing. I was just as curious, since many of my projects use 2x2. Our amazing teacher, Liat, has taught us how to do this on 1x1, but it's not so simple with 2x2. So, after being directed to a website with this technique by a fellow member, I decided to demonstrate it here! The goal is to change the 2x2 ribbing to 1x1 ribbing so that we can actually do the invisible ribbed bind off. To do this, we must reconfigure the order of the stitches on the needle. You are basically flipping the 2 middle stitches of the K2, P2 pattern, working with 4 stitches at a time. You will knit the first stitch of the pattern. In the picture below, I have just knitted the first stitch: Now, you slip the next stitch (we’re in pattern here, so this is the second knit stitch of the 2x2 ribbed pattern). I was having trouble with the stitch dropping, so I used a locking stitch marker to grab it off the left needle, and just let in hang in front of the work: Then we purl the next stitch, which is the first purl stitch of the pattern: Now we put the slipped stitch back on the needle. See, this is kind of like cabling; we’re basically flipping the positions of these two stitches on the needle: Now we knit this stitch. Notice that we are knitting knitted stitches and purling purled stitches. We just have to alter their order on the needle to make the new 1x1 ribbed pattern. And finally, we purl the last stitch: Now, look at the end result. You can see how the row of stitches that are on the needle are 1x1 now. And now you can proceed with Liat’s invisible ribbed bind off! And here it is now that I have finished the invisible ribbed bind off:
Cool like that: a perfect crew-neck tank you’ll reach for repeatedly. She has a variegated-rib knit that feels both nostalgic and modern. 100% Peruvian pima cotton Classic variegated-rib knit with a soft, luxurious handfeel Made in Peru Body length: 22 ½” Machine wash
Cotton Candy ShawlDesigned by Rachel BrockmanAn oversized shawl is one of our favorite things. Getting lost in the soft comfort of the yarn and delicious colors reminds us of a nostalgic sweet treat. The aptly named Cotton Candy Shawl is wonderfully fun to make. Simple garter stitch allows you to focus on the modular construction and gorgeous Donnina yarn. The bright shades and color blocking mean you can wear this beauty year-round.SIZESOne SizeFINISHED MEASUREMENTSWidth: 42”Length: 62”MATERIALSFibra Natura Donnina (100% superwash extrafine merino; 50g/180 yds)224 Navy (A) – 1 ball210 Sweet Pea (B) – 3 balls201 Vanilla (C) – 2 ballsNeedles: US size 7 (4.5 mm) 24” circular or longer (to accommodate large number of sts) or size needed to obtain gaugeNotions: Tapestry needle, stitch markersGAUGE19 sts x 38 rows = 4” in garter stSave time, check your gauge.PATTERN NOTESThis shawl is is knit modularly, beginning with a mitered square. Stitches are then picked up along the side of the square for each wing of the shawl. Each wing is decreased at a different rate. Finally, stitches are picked up along the side and bottom for a contrast-color edging. A diagram is included to help you visualize the construction.The Cotton Candy Shawl is available as part of e-book Sweet Treats, and as a free pattern download.
