This post may contain affiliate links, please check out my disclosures page for more info. Thanks! We celebrated Anna’s birthday last Sunday, but today we have two more reasons to celebrate. It has been well over a year since both Yuna and Sakura have arrived. To commemorate this fine occasion, Anna has sewn brand new outfits for the both of them. Matching outfits to be exact. Don’t they just look darling. There is an adorable pink lace trimmed skirt with suspender straps for Yuna, and gathered shorts for Sakura also with suspenders (she means puffy shorts). The ingenious thing is that the straps can be removed to show off the delightful blouses. They have raglan style sleeves and are trimmed with lace and ribbon along the neckline. Anna said they were made from a vintage handkerchief that had scalloped edges. Another handy thing about these blouses is the closure on the back. Makes changing one’s clothing a breeze. I find these yosd sized tops so delightful that I have convinced Anna to produce a sewing pattern and tutorial for the benefit of all. Now let the tutorial begin. Yosd Ball Jointed Doll Raglan Sleeve Top Tutorial Materials needed: Pattern Fabric or a handkerchief Matching thread Basic sewing supplies Thin lace Thin ribbon Snaps or Velcro Something to thread ribbon (large needle, small safety pin, etc.) Sewing machine is optional Some sewing knowledge is helpful If you are a bit of a beginner with sewing I recommend checking out these two video tutorials, they demonstrate some of the techniques you will need to make these tops: Drawstring Tank Tops for Dolls Fitted Dresses for Dolls Here is the pattern, it was designed based on Sakura’s measurements which are listed on the profile page. First you need to cut the pieces as indicated by the pattern. I lined up the bottom of the pattern along the edge of a cute handkerchief, so I could use the pretty scalloped edge instead of hemming the shirt. This is optional but a great idea. Now to start making the shirt, you first pin the sleeves to the front piece as shown and sew. Repeat with the back pieces. Then you pin and hem along the top edge of the shirt, this is your neckline. Next is to pin and hem the sleeves. If you prefer, you can hem the sleeves before sewing them to the front and back pieces. I would especially recommend it if you are sewing by machine instead of by hand. Pin together the front and back pieces, and then sew up the sides of the shirt and the sleeves. It is a good idea to try the shirt on you doll at this step to ensure a good fit. Now it actually looks like a shirt. This is the point where you will hem the bottom of the shirt. Since I used the edge of a handkerchief I get to skip this step. Now for the fun part, embellishing. Pin the thin lace along the neckline. Sew along the top and bottom edge of the lace. This will used as a casing for your ribbon. Use the tool of your choice to thread the ribbon under the lace. Make sure to pin the ribbon at the end to keep it from pulling out. Pull the ribbon out a bit at the center before threading it through to the other end of the shirt. You will tie this bit of ribbon in a bow later, so make sure it is long enough. Now time to take care of the back opening by pinning and hemming the edge. Repeat on the other end. Now we just need to sew on the closure of your choice. Either snaps or small pieces of Velcro. It is a good idea to try the shirt on your doll at this point to adjust the fit. All that’s left is to pull the ribbon to gather the neckline and tie it into a cute bow. Enjoy! Now that the tutorial is done, let us discuss the other pieces. Anna didn’t just make matching outfits for these two adorable dolls. For Yuna, there is this beautiful headband with a wonderful lace bow. The precious little dear has become quite fond of lace, so this hair piece suits her well. It is made using the same techniques from Anna’s doll headband tutorial. “That bow is so cute! It’s as cute as mine, don’t you think? We match now! Do like it? Do you like mine? Do you like it as much as cake?!” “….um…” “Me too!” For Sakura, there is this felt bag. Anna made several delightful bags for myself and Usagi some time ago (see Of Bjd Fashion: Felt Doll-sized Purses Tutorial) and a small one for Yuna (see Of Bjd Fashion: Yuna’s First Outfit with Tutorial), so Sakura greatly wished to have one of her very own. She was so thrilled to receive it. “It looks just like Usagi’s bag, but the bow is better! And it fits me, and it’s pink, and…” Maybe a tad too thrilled. That is all for today, but do not despair. There will be more to enjoy tomorrow with another tutorial to complete the charming little outfits. Until then, be at peace my dear readers. Give it a try: VELCRO® Brand 0.63'' x 30'' Soft &Flexible Sew-On Tape Dritz® Sew-On Snaps Nickel-Asst Size 1/0 2/0 4/0 Dritz Start-to-Sew Kit

Vera Tabray is a Novi Star released with Mimi Merize, her friend, as part of the original Super Nova Line which was released prior to the year long hiatus. Like Una, Vera has a love of all things fashionable. From going shopping to searching for fashions; which she believes she has a talent at due to her third eye. She also believes that she is very popular, so she often heads from one place to the next. She seems to be excitable and perky in comparison to the mysterious and quiet Mimi. She ado

This post may contain affiliate links, please check out my disclosures page for more info. Thanks! Anna has finally, finally, kept her promise to me last spring. She made me a new coat!! It is made with a creamy beige colored felt and trimmed with pearl buttons (they’re faux pearl beads!). It is quite similar to the lovely felt coats she made previously, but with some improvements. Such as the adorable lace trimmed collar with matching pockets, and she used my favorite lace as well. I just adore my new felt coat, and Anna made is just for me. ….Hikaru….sigh. Oh, yes. She also made a few more coats for the other dolls, like Momoko here. Her coat is made in the same creamy beige colored felt as mine. There are tiny bows on the pockets, just like a the coat made for Sakura last year. There is a strap on the back, just like mine, that cinches in the waist. Anna made a simple black felt coat for Yuki as well, too simple I must say. No trims or buttons, but at least there are pockets. What’s the point of a coat without decoration? You mean besides keeping someone warm? Anyway, Yuki wanted it that way, and I think it looks great on him. I suppose you are right, but I still believe it needs a little something. “Here Yuki, I asked Anna to make a scarf for you. Do you like it? :)” “…um, yes Usagi…” Good thinking Usagi, a scarf is just the thing we needed. It will add some necessary color. And now this wintery ensemble is complete. Doesn’t Yuki look dashing. It seems Anna didn’t stop at just one scarf. Two tiny red plaid scarves for Shiro and our cat friend. Anyway, we simply can not forget our new doll. She received a coat made from a beautiful shade of blue felt. It is simply trimmed with a tiny blue flower by the collar. Because there may be other ball jointed dolls out there in need of winter clothing. Anna has provided the patterns used to make these coats as well as some details about their construction. I will let her explain. Felt Coats for MSD and Yosd Ball Jointed Dolls Materials needed: Basic sewing supplies Felt, about 2 sheets of craft felt will do. Matching thread Snaps or Velcro Trims of your choice, these faux pearls are great for buttons. Sweater tutorial, see below. Here’s the MSD sized pattern, it was based on Usagi’s measurements which are listed on the doll profile page along with all the other doll’s measurements. Here is the MSD sized boy coat pattern. It is based on Yuki’s measurements. And here is the Yosd sized coat pattern, based on Sakura’s measurements. These coats were actually made almost the exact same way as this tutorial I found for SD sized doll sweaters (I made some patterns here for Msd and Yosd sweaters too.). There are just a few things different, I mean besides using felt instead of socks. For the sleeves, I folded the hem the other way to create a fun cuff look. This is totally optional, but it looks so cute and it actually makes it a little easier to slide a doll hand through. Strange, but true. It might be a little tricky to attach the sleeves to the coat (at step 3) since the felt is a bit thick. After sewing, be sure clip it and trim off the excess fabric to reduce bulk. Sometimes I’m lazy about doing that, but definitely not for this project. At step 7 on the sweater tutorial, it says to hem the bottom and the top (or neckline), but for these coats you first need to pin and sew on the collar along the top edge. Then you can fold down the edge and pin just like you would have done before to “hem the neckline”. This will make the collar stick up, you just need to fold it down like normal when the doll wears it. And after step 9, you can add the back strap if you want. You first pin it on the coat while your doll is wearing it. Pin it so it pulls the sides of the coat together to make it a little more fitted, then sew in place and add beads for “buttons”. Again this is optional, I didn’t bother with it for Yuki’s coat, but it looks nice on the girls’ coats. With different trims and colors, plus your own imagination, you can create a cute coat for everyone in your doll family. That’s exactly right, now everyone here is prepared for the winter. Although, I can’t help but wonder how much better my new coat would be with a matching new hat. Now there is something for Anna to ponder for the future. Yet for now, I am at peace. Give it a try: 9" x 12" Basic Felt by Creatology 4mm Round Pearl Beads, White, 240pcs. 4mm Round Pearl Beads, Cream Colored, 240pcs.

Бьюсь над шарниркой. Идет медленно, мучительно, но верно (точу, режу, шлифую, долепляю, допекаю, подгоняю и так далее). Но с коленными суставами мне пришлось сразиться всерьез, и вчера я одержала полную победу, с чем, собссно, намерена поделиться. Кому не интересно, пролистываем, кому интересно,…

A silk shirt for her and a Yohji inspired cotton shirt for him. Whether it's for the Ken doll or just for Barbie, nothing is more quintessentially chic than the all time fashion staple....the shirt. For the Ken doll, this item opens the possibilities to create countless casual and urbanwear gear. For Barbie, it's a wonderful summertime garment that always looks fresh and never goes out of style. That said, keep in mind that unless you make a coat with very deep sleeves, the doll won't be able to slip anything else on over her shirt. This is primarily why I feature largely sleeveless dresses. When I have examined the clothes Mattel provides for Ken, even his wedding suit is a 3-in-1 trompe l'oeil costume like that worn by Chippendale strippers. (Richard was so kind as to point this out to me.) Today's posting focuses on the basic shirt for both sexes of dolls. Rather than mark Ken for slopers, I took the easier route by duplicating the shirt delivered with Ken by tracing off the shirt pattern (see Trace of Style) to make a basic toile. Add pieces of fabric with tape to introduce new proportions to your pattern. The original shirt was smaller and shorter than the proportions I desired . After duplicating it, I put it on the doll, being sure to mark the CF and CB lines. For adding volume or length, slash your toile where you want more fullness or length, then add more fabric, taping it in place. Once you are happy with your new proportions, mark where the new seams, hemline, armhole or neckline should be. Remove from the doll to create a new pattern. Cut this pattern out in fabric. Pin together and try on the doll. If it still needs adjusting, add or subtract fabric. It is very important this pattern is correct because all other styles will depend on how well this draft fits. I made a couple toiles before I was happy. Create half a pattern so that both sides will be symmetric. Mark the CF, CB, all seams and style details on your toile. Create half a pattern for symmetry. Check that side seams are equal in length. I had some problems with the collar. So I waited until I had sewn the toile together, then measured the neck hole to ensure a proper fit. My front placket is the edge folded twice over to the front, then stitched in place. If you don't want a placket, fold it to the underside and stitch. Unless you are doing something fancy with the cuff, sew it onto to edge of the sleeve before you sew the underarm of the sleeve. A well fitting shirt with just the right amount of volume! I'm featuring two types of sleeves for the girl doll. The first is a simple dress shirt, like the kind you would wear with a suit. An easy to make simple "dress shirt." Trace off the front bodice sloper. Ignore the dart. Measure 1/4 inch on the right of the CF line. From the neckline measure 3 1/2 inch and drop the new line. Straighten the seam under the arm so that drops perpendicular to the hem. From the bottom line, make a mark roughly 1/4 inch up. Now draw your curve at the bottom. For the back sloper, measure the length of the underarm length of the front pattern to get the proper length for the back. Also note where you shortened it on the side for the curve. In this blouse, I am not adding a collar. Instead, I've made a facing by drawing a line 3/8 inch away from the neckline at the back. For the front draw this line so that it looks like that in the illustration. Trace the front facing. Flip. Then add this piece to the front pattern along that new center line. I've used the regular sleeve. The final pattern is featured below. This makes for a nice blouse. However, if we want to create the women's version of the men's classic shirt, we'll need the next draft. The oversize shirt pattern features a deep, dropped shoulder sleeve, a cuff and a back yoke if you so desire. The chic of a crisp linen shirt over a halter top and jeans. Begin with the front sloper. Again, ignore the dart. I decided to add quite a bit of length, so I dropped the center line by 5 inches from the neckline. At the neck shoulder tip, draw a straight horizontal line equal in length from the shoulder tip to the underarm line (see close up) minus 1/4 inch. Measure 1/4 inch down from the underarm tip and mark. Now draw a vertical line straight down to the hem. At the front, add 1/2 inch to the right of the CF line. Make a curve at the underarm. Decide how deep you want the side curve for the tails. Mine is marked to start at 3/4 inch up from the hem. Draw your curve. Take your sleeve sloper and measure out from the cap to the wrist minus 1/4 inch. Draw a horizontal line from the new shoulder tip of the oversized shirt pattern and another from the underarm tip. Join with a vertical line. Draw a diagonal line from the underarm point to the mid-point of the vertical line (at sleeve hem). This will result in a squared off triangle. Trace this off and add to the top to get the sleeve. For the back, flip your front shirt pattern. Line up the back sloper to this pattern. You will maintain the neckline of the back sloper but trace off the rest of the front pattern. If you want a yoke, simply place a horizontal line at the point you want it. Here, I've place my slash line 1/4 inch down from the neck. You will add seam allowance and stitch these two pieces back together. You can also decide to leave the back in a single piece. For cuffs, create a rectangle: measure the length of the sleeve at the hem, add 1 inch. Fold in half horizontally and press. Sew onto the hem of the sleeves before preceding. If you have opted for the yoke, sew this to the back bodice, press. Baste together and stitch the front and back patterns along the shoulder line. Next, stitch the sleeves to the bodice while everything is still flat. Fold over to the wrong side of the garment and stitch the sleeves along the under arm and down the side seam of the shirt. Measure the neckline and create your collar. Create a rectangle the same width of your neckline plus 1/2 inch (or more). Add seam allowance. The complete pattern should resemble the one pictured here. You can use all different types of fabrics. Bulkier ones or leathers will yield you a shirt-jacket. By lengthening this pattern and adding a self belt, you have a "shirtwaist dress." Follow us on Twitter: @FashDollStylist All images and text property of © Fashion Doll Stylist. 2013. Please do not reproduce without prior permission.

’m sculpting my second ball-jointed doll and I’ve decided to document all the process! A few years ago when I was just trying to understand how ball-jointed dolls actually work, there was almost no information about the topic. Now, people are sharing a little bit more on Instagram or Facebook groups

Выкройка и пошив рубашки.Рубашка часть 1Подойдёт всем:Кенам Маттел - фешенистас, с телам... Смотрите полностью ВКонтакте.

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