Voy a empezar reconociendo que con mi entrada de hoy no invento la pólvora, y es que tutoriales para hacer perfumes en miniatura a partir de abalorios o cuentas, hay millones. ¿Por qué se…

Hola, os traigo una nueva publicación, un armario y una cama para un nuevo proyecto, espero que os guste.Pinchar las imagenes si quereis agr...

I thought I would show you how to make a simple interior door and jamb from mat board. I took the opening measurement from the Hobby Builder's catalog so this door is standard for today's dollhouses. Once you have learned the method you can make doors of different dimensions. I have bought lots of books from Dover Publishers.com. This book is very good for doors and windows. It doesn't give measurements but the ideas are great. Some examples of the pages. I will begin with the jamb or the frame in which the door sets. The Hobby Builder's catalog listed the opening as 3" wide, 7" high and 3/8" deep. Cut strips of mat board 3/8" wide. Cut at least 40". I am going to be using yellow carpenter's glue through out this tutorial. Cut 4 pieces of the mat board 7" long, that's in the picture above. Glue two pieces together and glue another two pieces together. You now have two pieces 7" long that are double thickness of mat board. Cut from the mat board 3 pieces 2 3/4" long. Glue two of these pieces together. Leave the third piece for later. Cut 1/8" wide strips from mat board, at least 20". Measure and mark on the doubled strips of mat board the center, 3/16" from either side. Glue the 1/8" wide strip along the line. There will be 3/16" left on one side. This is called the "stop". It stops the door so it only swings one way. Here are the three pieces of the jamb with the stop glued on. There are two sides and one top. Pay attention to how I have this laid out. With your craft knife cut off 1/8" of the stop at the top of one side. Do the same thing with the other side. This is what the top of the side should look like after you've made the cut. I am holding the top of the jamb in my hand. The side in on the table. The top fits down onto the side. The stop should line up all around. I have the sides glued to the top. Do you see that the sides are covering the ends of the top? Look at the stop, it is lined up all around. Now, for the third piece of 3/8" wide mat board you set aside earlier, this is the bottom of the jamb or threshold. Measure and mark the center, then mark 1/8" away from that. Use your craft knife to cut on the marks. Cut 1/16" deep. This is the threshold with the cuts made. Use 220 grit sand paper to round off the long edges of the threshold. Glue the threshold to the bottom of the jamb. The stop is in the openings you cut out. Showing another view of the threshold. Please let this dry. I measured the inside of the jamb for the measurement of the door. I left a little play, that's carpenter talk for extra space between the door and jamb. This measurement is 2 11/16" x 6 3/4". Cut this from mat board. This is my cut sheet. I've drawn the door in 1 inch scale and then measured what I need to cut. You will notice I've got my 3/8" measurements together then I've got an oddball 3/4" measurement and then the 9/16" measurements are together. If you are using a table saw or mat cutting system this makes it easy to follow. Set the width once and make those cuts and move onto the next one. You will have all your strips cut to width. All you will have to do is measure for the length and cut. I've got my 3/8" strips cut. I've cut 4 of the 3/8" strips 6 3/4" long and glued them along the sides of the door. I've done this to both sides of the door. Although I have the length written down I usually just dry fit and mark with a pencil where I need to cut for length. I will do this for the rest of the door, both sides. I use my square and craft knife to cut the strips to length. I've got a 3/8" strip at the top, 3/4" strip in the lower middle and a 9/16" strip at the bottom. I do this for both sides. Just a word here, this would make a fine door right now if you want. I am dry fitting and marking for the center pieces, they are from 3/8" strips. I've got the center strips glued in, both sides. I want to show you something. Do you see the two pencil marks on the top strip? I am measuring for the center. This is an old carpenter's trick, the old carpenter being my husband, HA! You don't have to divide fractions. I'm using a scrap of mat board. Lay your ruler down, it's length is between the 1/16 and 1/8 inch marks. Make a pencil mark at what looks to be over half to you. Remember the measurement, mine is 1 11/16". I am measuring from the left side. Now, I've rotated the mat board and I am measuring from the other side, 1 11/16". I've made a pencil mark. You should be able the "eye" the center without measuring. Use 220 grit sand paper to round off the square edges of the mat board. Don't do the outside edges of the door just the inside of the rectangles you made with the strips. Just a note here, this makes a fine door right now. To imitate the raised panels we will cut from the 9/16" wide strips of mat board 4 pieces 3 1/4" long and 4 pieces 1 1/4" long. Use 220 grit sand paper to round off all 4 sides of these pieces. After you have rounded off the edges glue these pieces into the center of the rectangles of the door, both sides. I've got the door just setting in the jamb. I am using scrap mat board from a framer. Got a good buy on some large pieces for $3.00 and $5.00 a piece. They were discontinued colors. Last time I bought a piece from Michael's it was $15.00! Going to make the trim for the jamb. Cut from mat board a few pieces, enough for both sides of the door, a fat 1/8" wide and 5/16" wide. Glue the fat 1/8" strip to one side of the 5/16" strip. Use 220 grit sand paper to round off the the edges of the strips. I use The Chopper for my mitres. I've made the first cut. I have no trick for you in cutting mitres, I am sorry. It's all in the measuring, measure twice, cut once. Glue the trim onto the jamb, on the outside piece of mat board. Leave the inside piece showing, that's called the reveal. That's why I doubled the mat board on the jamb so we would have something to glue to, even if it is a single piece of 1/16" thick piece of mat board. The jamb is going to be glued into a door opening. I have the trim glued on. Cut two of everything so you have trim for the other side of the door jamb. You will put that on after you have the door and jamb in the opening. I used 180 grit sand paper to sand round one side of the door. This makes it easier for the door to swing with a pin hinge. The rounded side is the side that will have the pin hinge. That's all I use. I haven't gotten to putting real hinges on, yet. I have a small stash of these short thick brass pins, I don't know where I got them from. You can use a straight pin or dollhouse nails for the hinge. Putting the pins in is a little tricky. Place the door into the jamb and mark on the door and jamb, have the marks line up. You want to be 3 /32" from the edge of the door. Your door is 3/16" thick, you want to have the pin in the middle of that. Transfer the 3/32" mark to the top and bottom of the jamb and drill using a tiny drill bit. You don't have to drill into the door, only through the top and bottom of the jamb. The pin will go into the door pretty easily. Insert your pins. Don't worry if you don't succeed on the first try. If you make too many attempts just put glue in the holes, let dry and try again tomorrow. Tigger's on my table. I hope you try this out. I had this made in a couple of hours, that beats waiting for it being shipped. Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . . . . Just Keep Making Minis! TTUL Kris P.S. I added a picture showing one of the pins in the bottom of the jamb or threshold. A pin goes in the top of the jamb, too. The pins are inserted into the side of the door that you rounded off with sand paper. I hope this helps a little more.

Aquí les dejo el tutorial de como soldar alambre para rejas, muebles, respaldos de cama, maceteros, salva chispas para una estufa y lo que quieran realizar Materiales Soldador fundente (percloruro férrico) estaño 60/40 de 1 mm alambre del 21 cartón grueso de 3 mm o una madera en desuso cinta de papel, o carrocero diseño pinza rosario para artesanías pincel viejito para colocar el fundente Paso a paso Lo primero que haremos será realizar el diseño del mueble, reja o elemento a soldar y calcarlo en el cartón grueso Luego con la pinza realizaremos los rulos y formas de alambre que luego soldaremos siguiendo el patrón o diseño Lo que más resultado me ha dado es, primero hacer el contorno de la reja sujetar bien el alambre al cartón con cinta de enmascarar, papel o carrocero y tener la precaución de no sacarlas hasta el final. Luego coloco el primer alambre a soldar, si ven en la foto trato de armar la estructura. Coloco el fundente en los dos alambres a soldar (Si buscan en la web verán que fundentes se usan muchos, este lo usaba mi hijo para hacer las plaquetas en una escuela técnica industrial por lo que es económico y fácil de encontrar en comercios de venta de artículos de electrónica para las escuelas. y allí pueden adquirir también el soldador a buen precio. Caliento unos segundos las dos superficies Acerco el estaño y si está caliente fluirá sobre las dos superficies retiro el soldador. Sabremos que se enfrió porque cambia un poco su brillo. Hay que tratar de no colocar el estaño sobre la punta del soldador ya que se quema y la soldadura no es segura. tampoco sobre la cinta de papel o carrocero porque también se quema. Si la punta del soldador está muy sucia, se puede limpiar frotándola con un trapo de algodón, húmedo, no usar fibras de poliester porque se derriten y ensucian más la punta del soldador. Como el material a soldar es alambre, es decir un metal, éste se dilata con el calor y a veces se nos mueve de la posición que queremos que quede, para evitar eso, utilizo una pinza y lo sujeto presionando sobre la base de cartón para que quede en su lugar y derecha la reja, hasta que cambie el brillo y ya esté fria. Se calienta mucho, por ello esperen unos minutos para sacar la cinta y ver su trabajo concluido. Recomiendo empezar con diseños sencillos hasta que le agarren la mano a la soldadura. Otro tip: cuando suelden dos materiales o alambres de distinto grosor, calienten primero el más grueso apoyando la punta del soldador y luego sobre el otro, para que los dos alcancen la misma temperatura y la soldadura salga perfecta. Esta soldadura sirve también para el alambre de cobre pero no para el de aluminio. Les dejo unos videos donde explico el procedimiento. Soldadura de estaño Como hacer un "rulo" Muchas gracias por ver mi blog Cueña.

Con láminas y cajas de cartón grandes podemos elaborar diversos juguetes y juegos, entre ellos modelos de muebles que pueden servir para ...

powder room, vanity, sink, toilet, cricut, maker, bathroom, beach house, bungalow,

1- Pasar las plantillas a un cartón y cortarlas. El respaldo se dobla por las lineas hacia adentro, el segundo respaldo debe ser un poqui...

Usa palitos de madera y crea pequeños muebles, perfectos para muñecas y otros juguetes. Puedes hacer una gran variedad de muebles, como mesas, sillas, camas, estantes, libreros, armarios y gabinetes. Es una manera muy divertida de pasar el tiempo con niños pequeños, ya que esta actividad es tan sencilla que es apropiada para cualquier edad. […]

This is the chair from the Vintage Kitchen, I have several pictures of this room box on the blog, one picture is in the July 29, 2009 posting. I've been asked to make a tutorial for this chair several times, I avoided it because it's tricky. Even now, when I made the samples for you I held my breath when the bending began. I didn't have another piece of aluminum if this failed. I am making the table next month so you will have a matching set. This set is in my full-size kitchen, so I took the measurements from it and converted to 1 inch scale. This chair uses 3/32 inch aluminum tubing. I used to get it from Micro Mark, they only sell by the box of 15 now, at least that's what their web site listed. Now, if your first try at bending this chair is successful, consider yourself lucky, but 15 pieces is way too many unless you are using this as a club project. I have found a site that sells the K & S Engineering aluminum tubing in smaller amounts, www.hobbylinc.com They sell 3/32 inch aluminum tubing in a package of 3 for 1.59, I would purchase 2 packages, just in case. For the table you will need 1 package of 1/16 inch aluminum tubing, 6 pieces for 1.59 and 1 package of 1/8 inch aluminum tubing, 3 pieces for 1.89. Look under "building supplies". Of course, if you have a hobby shop that specializes in models and trains they might have this tubing. I used basswood for the seats and backs on the original chairs. If you have access to a scroll saw and can cut the wood, I would use the wood. The seat is 3/32 inch thick basswood and I sanded the saddle into the seat. The back is cut from 1/16 inch thick basswood. After I cut out and sanded the edges round I dampened the back and let it dry over a glass, something that had the right size bend. I held it in place with rubber bands. Let this dry overnight. Then I painted with Rustoleum white oil base paint. For this tutorial I am using mat board for the seats and backs. I mentioned earlier, if you are successful on the first try consider yourself lucky. This goes fast, you'll have a chair in no time, if your bends are correct. Don't try to move the bends too much, aluminum only bends once. I don't use the "tube benders". They are more trouble than they are worth. We will make a bending jig. You'll need a scrap of wood, a piece of a 2 x 4 or maybe a piece of plywood, at least 1/2 inch thick. On a piece of paper draw your chair shape. Use a square. From top of back to seat is 1-1/4 inches; back of seat to front 1-1/4 inches; top of seat to floor 1-3/8 inches and the last measurement is 1-1/16 inches. Now, round off the corners, I did this freehand, if you want to use a circle template, go ahead. Cut this pattern out and glue it to your scrap of wood. Next, you are going to need some brads. These are small nails with NO heads. Mine are probably 5/8 inches long. The picture above is my original bending jig from maybe 10 years ago, never throw out your jigs or forms, you will need them again. See the little brads? Yes, they look like nails, but you can't have heads on them or you won't be able to get the tubing off after you've bent it. Carefully hammer the brads into the wood on your rounded lines. Do you see how mine are very, very close together? You have to do this so the tubing won't crimp. This is your first bending jig for the chair, you have one more to make. On another piece of paper draw an "L" with your square, each leg is 9/16 inches long. Round it's corner also. Glue this piece to the scrap of wood also, glue it about 10 or 12 inch away from the first pattern. Carefully hammer the brads onto the rounded line. Again, this is my original jig with all of my notes. You see I made some mistakes the first time, and when you see me bending you will notice that I had the two jigs too close together. To keep the tubing from crimping insert a wire large enough to fill the inside of the tube. I had 18 gauge covered wire on hand. I had to unravel the thread on it, but it fit into the 3/32 inch tubing just fine. The tubing is 12 inch long. Use your craft knife and with the wire inserted, cut the tubing to 11-1/16 inch. I am cutting the tubing. Cut the wire a little shorter than the tubing. Straight pins are used to cap the ends of the tubing so we need room for those. We are ready to bend. Hold the tubing at the top of the jig, the tubing is going to want to move away from the brad, hold onto it. Please forgive the picture quality, I had help. I've made the first bend at the back of the seat. THEN, I moved the tubing so that it is on top of the second bend's brads, look carefully and you can see this. In this picture you can see how I moved the tubing to be on top of the second bend. I've made the bend and I am down to the bottom. I've made the third bend. I am marking on the tubing a line to indicate the end of the pattern. I've removed the chair and now it's on the next jig. The mark you made should be at the first brad. This is a picture from the top and I am bending around the brads. I am marking the tubing again indicating the end of the pattern, this is also the center back. At this point you could cut the chair at the center back, it's much easier this way, but you have a seam that would have to be glued. I've repositioned the chair. Can you see the chair on the right, the center back line is matching the one on the pattern? We are still looking at everything from the top. I've made the second bend for the bottom of the chair. Now it gets complicated! I do not know how to explain this, but here goes . . . take a straight edge, your ruler, but it's got to be flat and thin, that's why I have mine turned over, push it against the curve and make a mark on the other side of the chair's tubing. This is not exact, this is going to be your trial chair. Remember, you can cut the chair at the center back. I've gone back to my first jig, see the chair is standing up on it's bottom. I've lined up the mark I made with the first brad. After I made the first sample chair, I found that I needed to move the chair back, maybe a 1/16 inch from the brad. We are still looking from the top. The back bottom of the chair is on the left and I am beginning the bottom bend. Yes, it's not on the same plane, we are going to twist the second side into position. Are you sure you wanted these instructions? I've continued around the brads. REMEMBER, to move the tubing after the second bend so that it's under your brads at the back of the seat. If all went well you should be ending at the beginning mark on your pattern. Carefully lift your chair off of the jig. Carefully twist the other side of the chair into position. You have one try at this. Here are my two samples, and my original chair. You can move the aluminum tubing a bit, but don't worry it to death, it will break. All of this just takes minutes to do. Transfer the patterns at the top of this posting to a program that you can change sizes in. When you get the 1 inch square to measure 1 inch, you have the patterns correct. As I mentioned earlier, if you have basswood and can cut it, use it. If not we are going to use mat board for this tutorial. I bent the chair back using a form, this is a circular Altoids tin. Wrinkles will appear on the surface of the mat board. To cover them, because it very hard to get rid of them, cut a piece of paper or card stock to fit over the front of the back after it's bent. This should be a lot easier than trying to sand and paint them out, like I tried to do. Glue the paper with yellow carpenter's glue while the back is in it's bent position. Hold until set. Find some straight pins with large heads, or you can punch circles to cover the open ends of the tube. I had some small nails I used for the samples. I sanded the edges half round and then gave everything a coat of Delta's PermEnamel Gloss Glaze to seal. Let dry. A picture showing the half rounded edges. I painted the mat board with Delta's PermEnamel white paint, several times, sanding with 320 grit paper in between coats. We are trying to imitate metal so we want a very smooth surface. After you are satisfied with the surface give everything a coat of Delta's PermEnamel Gloss Glaze. I glued the backs and seats on with instant glue, be careful of your position, you don't have much time to reposition. Yes, this chair is a little daunting, but you can do it, just take a deep breath!! I will be posting the table next month. Have fun, expand on it, make it better, Just keep making MINIS!!!!!

We have talked about making miniatures from trash to treasure projects before, but it got a bit to long. So today we are starting part 2.

os enseño unos enredos (que os pueden servir)esto es un asa de una garrafa de aceite se corta el asa y la he pintado (el color a gusto de cada cual) se hace una plantilla de cartón,por la parte de dentro se forra de tela ,o cualquier material y se encaja y pega por atrás ¡¡mirar que cama tan maja¡¡ con una cadena se puede hacer ,casi de todo se sacan los eslabones y otro cabecero dorado ,además tiene mil formas distintas según lo imajines ,se pega muy bien con loftite 2 eslabones,un trocito de fieltro y un trocito de papel de plata un joyero,una polvera,o simplemente una caja de adorno ya veis tapón de espumoso y clip de los chinos se pega en circulo(los hay también de otras formas) y tenemos una mesita para la terraza una etiqueta de ropa,es de cartón duro yo hice un cabecero y quedo muy aparente ,pero también lo he utilizado de marco de espejo para la tienda Dior,de verdad que una vez echa la cama era resultona . y por hoy ya esta bien como siempre os digo son prototipos segurisimo que si os ponéis lo mejoráis mil besos para todos y gracias por dedicarme un ratito de vuestro tiempo

Dicen que la necesidad es la madre del ingenio, pero una previsión meteorológica nefasta para el fin de semana se le acerca bastante. Así que sin perspectivas de salir mucho de casa (al final la co…