My latest photoshoot, inspired by Op Art - Mod asthetic of the 60s - Photos by me Model: Poppy Parker "Checkmates"

https://www.instagram.com/antoinetcouture/ https://tr.pinterest.com/antoinettecouture If you want to pin the patterns and images you can...

Barbie Fashionistas 111 - 2019 African American Blonde Curvy https://www.instagram.com/antoinetcouture/ https://tr.pinterest.com/antoinettecouture If you want to pin the patterns and images you can find on Pinterest under the title of A-01-BARBIE My Couture Barbie made to move

Santa was REALLY good to the dolls, this year....fur-real!!!! The girls are STILL parading around the house in their gifts. With New Year's Eve parties less than a week away, and the start of red-carpet season which starts soon after, a touch of fur--be it a hat made of small pompoms or a full, ankle length coat--is just the thing to add a dash of glamor to your doll's look. Thanks to the modern invention of faux fur and trim sold by the yard, Squares of faux fur sold in craft stores, not to mention furry caps and scarves available en masse at second hand shops, Santa didn't have any problem making lots of furry gear for my entire crew! Moreover, fur coats and jackets are among the easiest articles to realize. And no small animals were harmed in the process. It all starts with a super simple pattern. Again, I used the basic jacket pattern made from the front, back and sleeve sloper which can be lengthened or shortened to suit your taste. You can flare your pattern slightly, but personally, if you're working with long haired faux fur, you really don't need much more than the straight coat pattern. Your sleeves should have straight (not tapered) sides. Though there are few differences in the making of a shearling coat from that of one made of fur, there are a few things should keep in mind. First of all, unlike working in leather, faux fur is essentially fabric, but with a deep pile. You stitch it with your sewing machine or hand sew your garment together with little difficulty. You can choose to line it or leave it unlined. But as with working with leather, trace your pattern on the backside of the fur and do not use scissors when cutting out the pattern. Cut close to the base and gently pull the pattern piece away so as to preserve the long hairs of the fur. There are no special instructions for this basic coat/jacket except to have fun and be sure to choose really fun faux fur. But for those of you who want to line your garment, here are a few suggestions. The reason behind this approach is based on my observations of my mother's old fur coats. There was often a cloth tape around the perimeter, to which the lining was attached. This allowed to cleaners to remove the lining from the fur for cleaning which was then treated by it self. I stitched a 1/2-inch satin ribbon against the hem of the jacket's interior. Around the sides of the jacket, I took the same ribbon and folded it over the edges so that half will lie in the front and the other half at the back. Hand stitch in place.  The lining, using the same pattern as the coat (minus the sleeve) is made, I have used fabric glue to hem it on the sides and bottom. stitched to the ribbon on the sides, but I do not attach to the hem. You can then stitch another strip of ribbon at the neckline. Or you can attach a strip of fur to the inside of the neckline (to fold right side out). Then attach another strip of ribbon at the neckline. Just like mother's coat I have gathered or pleated the ribbon along the curve of the neckline to avoid stress. A shaggy coat is enhanced with a detachable hood. You can also make a jacket (or coat) using fur trim, sold by the yard. For this doll's red/black jacket, I used 1 yard (1 meter) of trim. I began by making my basic jacket, leaving it turned inside out with the seams on the outside. You don't need to line up each strip edge to edge unless the trim has a short pile. You just want to make sure the shag hangs over the next strip of fur. Below is my plot. The grey areas represent where each strip of trim is placed. The cross hairs show the overhang of the fur. I sew this onto the jacket by hand. I sew a strip of ribbon on the edges which is then turned inside of the jacket. Again, I added a leftover rectangle of trim to the neckline for the collar. Here is what the jacket looks like inside and out. I used strips of fabric around the edge. However, if you so choose, you can add a border to border lining instead, stitched by hand. There is also a quick and easy way to make a fur coat for your doll. For that we went to a discount store or vintage shop in search for fuzzy caps made from fur-like yarn. To make this fur cocoon coat, I started off with a cap. Most caps are joined at the crown with crisscross seam. I open these two seams and flatten out my cap. Next, open up the top corners just enough for the doll's arms. Now stitch up the rest of that opening into one single seam. Roll the cuff of the cap back and place on the doll so that the "collar" falls behind her neck. Stick her arms through the holes. By using just the front and back pattern pieces, you can also create a very trendy vest worn over a skirt or jeans! Wait! Don't toss out those scraps!!!! I use every bit of my leftover scarps to trim jackets or coats as well as to create a plethora of accessories. A faux monkey shrug over the Gatsby dress with feather skirt. I had large scraps of fur left over from one of the jackets I made. So, I joined the pieces together and fashioned it into the shrug worn by the doll above. The "asymmetrical" aspect to the joined pieces adds to the charm and originality of the garment. But don't stop there. Lets give the doll a trendy, fur handbag! Just look at what I was able to do with a scrap of fur and one of those plastic Barbie handbags! And look, with a tiny scrap, my doll has now has fur trim (Barbie) boots!!! I took a long strip of faux lamb, and lined it with the same fabric as the doll's suit for this glamorous stole. I simply folded the edges of the lining under and hand stitched it close to the edge of the back of the stole. Scraps of fur can be folded into instant dramatic hats! The hat above was created by shaping the fur into a loop around the doll's head. You can also use fur ball pompoms for hats, too! A few scraps can add a dramatic touch when added as a collar to a suit and topped off with a hat (made from a small rectangle, folded and stitched at the top and back. And don't forget to add a matching stole! It can be as full or as thin (think boa) as you like for the desired effect. We added a bit of a flare to the basic pattern for extra fullness. Message from my dolls to yours? There's no reason NOT to have the coat or accessory of your dreams. Let the fur fly!!!! Follow us on Twitter: @FashDollStylist Somewhere between Downton Abbey and The Great Gasby! The hat on the left was created with a pipe cleaner & a tiny fur scrap. All images and text property of Fashion Doll Stylist. 2013. Please do not reproduce without prior permission. Thank you.

At last, we return to our dressmaking skills! Stocking boots are super simple way to create near flawless footwear for the doll. It involves combining the stocking pattern with a shoe element and sole. But it is only for use with STRETCH fabrics! (The next project will address boots made with non-stretch materials.) If you don't want to buy lots of fabric, consider buying socks or knee length stockings! This tutorial is shorter than the others because, other than the length or the shape of the toe, there aren't any real modifications you can make. The design is as simple or complex as the choice of color, pattern or the material you use. But the possibilities are still limitless. You can create a multitude of looks from edgy vinyl to glamorous sequins so long as the fabric you choose stretches! When I first started out with this project, I began by making soles for my existing stocking boots (made to be worn over existing Barbie shoes). My first thoughts were to simply glue soles onto the bottoms of these jersey stockings. Having owned this type footwear in my own wardrobe, I should have known better. With nothing to control their feet, the dolls feet slipped off the soles underneath the jersey. With my own boots, there was a vinyl structure, not only to maintain the shape of the toe, but also to hold the foot to the shoe! It's the same for the doll.. Begin by making a stocking pattern specifically modified for this project. Before you get started, be sure to prepare your insoles (2 sets) and an outer sole. 1. Using cotton jersey (from an old T-shirt, for example), stretch a portion over and around the doll's leg, pinning it together along the center of the back. 2. Take a soft lead pencil and mark where the pins are on both sides. 3. Mark the front center line of the leg as well. 4. Remove this from the doll. Refine the lines then create your pattern. Fold it in half along the center line then refine the side edges so that your pattern is symmetrical. 5. Using the pattern from the previous post, place it over the toe of your pattern to change the toe to a point. You are not obliged to do this. You can leave this step out and opt for a more natural toe. 6. Add seam allowance to finish the pattern. 7. Be sure to make notes on the finished pattern as to what the pattern is and which type of doll it is for. 8. For this boot, I have used the material from a knee-length stocking (I bought at the Dollar Store). Cut out your pattern. Also cut out the interfacing we used in the last (backless shoe) project. (It's that tiny white triangle you see near the toes of my stockings. I have placed it at the same point I did on the shoe. Glue in place. Note: as long as your fabric is opaque, it doesn't matter what color the interfacing is. However, if you are using lace or a sheer, we have another suggestion further down in this post. 9. Curl the part of the toe with the interfacing around a sharpened pencil. 10. Sew the stocking down the back seam 11. Turn each stocking right side up and place them on the doll's legs. 12. You do not need to line the insoles for your boots. Put a layer of rubber cement on the bottom of of one set of insoles. Gently place the insole on the doll's foot with the glued side facing up. 13. Put a little rubber cement around the edges of the stockings. Try to keep from getting it onto the doll's feet. But don't worry if you do because rubber cement rolls off quite easily! 14. Get as much of the stocking onto the bottom of the sole. Gluing the uppers to the sole is simply to help keep the stocking in place while you secure it with the next step. 15. With needle and thread, gently pull the two sides together and sew. You want to adjust the fabric on the top of the foot so that everything is smooth and well fitting and the toe looks good. 16. Now take your super strong glue and add a generous amount to the bottom of the stocking and to one side of mid-sole. (Do not use rubber cement for this step because it will come apart later on!) 17. Glued edge to glued edge, place the mid-sole onto the bottom of the stocking. Press well and use your "rolling pin" to ensure the two sides are firmly glued in place 18. Set aside, and if you haven't made them yet, prepare your soles. 19. Voila, the finished shoe! Here they are in stretch velvet. For this fabric, you don't have to turn down the edge at the top. And again, the same pattern in a silver metallic stretch fabric. This pair of light silver stretch lurex was made early on, using the polymer clay for the soles. I created platform soles and because it is difficult to get the heels nice and smooth, I added a coat of silver glitter! If you are using polymer clay and not happy with the results, remember this....Glitter Is Your Friend!!!! Here is the most recent version of the same boot I made in dark gold lurex using the epoxy clay for the soles. (I glittered the toes with a contrasting tone of gold.) With the epoxy clay I am able to get much finer results than those with the polymer clay. Awhile back, I saw these stocking boots in an Italian fashion show. How pretty are these!!! I made them using a wide stretch lace trim. It is especially important to use interfacing around the toes because not only will the feet slip, the doll's toes will peak out in between the stitches. So you will have to decide whether you want the toe to be solid or sheer. If you want to maintain the sheerness of the stocking straight through to the toes, I recommend using clear vinyl. Instead of the triangle we have been using, I use the pattern we created in the previous post. This is because I don't want to glue this down. On the other hand, you can sew this in place with the same color thread as the stocking. You can make any length boot you desire. I made knee-highs. Here, I used stretch sequins. I made the decision to glitter the soles and heels. (Again, these were made using polymer clay for the soles.) These dark silver stretch lurex knee high boots are a great compliment for both daywear and eveningwear. I also glittered these soles and heels. Since the lurex is dark silver, I painted the heels and soles black then added silver glitter. I wanted to do end this post with a spectacular pair of boots, but each piece of fabric I picked up was something other than stretch! You cannot use your stocking pattern for non-stretch fabrics because 1) it won't fit and 2) the doll wouldn't be able to get in and out of her footwear. So instead of dedicating the next tutorial to creating one-piece pumps, I decided we would make boots using non-stretch materials. Coming up next: Shoe Biz 6-Giving Her the Boot! This begins with the pattern I made several years ago for spats and, instead of slipping it over an existing shoe, turning it into a real boot. Again, it is a simple pattern with a couple of options. While we work on getting the next tutorial up, have a good time making stocking boots. See you back here real soon! Follow us on Twitter: @FashDollStylist Like us on Facebook: @FashDollStylist We're also on Pinterest: @FashDollStylist And of course, we are on Instagram: @fashiondollstylist All photos and text property of Fashion Doll Stylist. 2019. Please do not reproduce without prior permission and please always credit us.

Free Barbie sewing patterns to sew amazing outfits for the plastic fashion dolls. These doll clothes patterns can be customized in a variety of sizes.