Hi everyone, I hope you are all working on colouring those swatches for your colour journals - I know that's what I spent my weekend doing! ...
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I wanted to share some of my favorite Copic combinations for skin and hair with you. Please feel free to print this out, link to it, and sh...
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Hallo bloglezers, ik wil jullie graag opmerkzaam maken op het Colourstockblog. Op dit blog vind je heel veel informatie aan over bijna a...
Back by popular demand. This was posted several times here on my blog, but it has been requested a million times that I repost.. so here it is.. hope it helps. Remember! people are often intimidated by coloring images that have faces. LOL.. it's just paper, if you mess up there is usually a round bin near by to toss it into and start over..... the only way you will bet better at coloring anything is to practice.. trust me, many of my images get tossed to the round file (needs emptied quite often...LOL). Hugs, Jennie
So, versprochen war ein Thema mit Stempeln, hier ist es. Eigentlich auch schon ein Klassiker, aber etwas in Vergessenheit geraten, da Copics und Twinkling H2Os
Learn how to colour reflective Christmas ornaments using Copic Markers. Post features a Stamping Bella rubber stamp & includes step by step colouring guide.
FREE COLOR CHARTS (Not for profit -- please do not sell or offer these as your own creations. Please do not distribute these files to others but instead, link them here to download for themselves. These files are given freely for download from my site only. Thanks for your understanding!) Blank Copic color charts, for you to add your marker colors: (Watermark is only on the preview at left, your download will not be watermarked). 2012-2017 (most current) PDF 1-Pg landscape hand color chart of ALL 358 Copic marker & 24 Spica Glitter Pen colors: Download Copic Blank Color Chart 1PG 2017-Sharon Harnist (NEW: You can find a portrait 2-page version below!) NEW! 2-Pg larger portrait hand color 2017 Copic chart PDF download of ALL 358 Copic marker & 24 Spica Glitter Pen colors -- Larger sized boxes for color swatches, with easier-to-read words, for you to color (watermark is only on preview at left, your download will not be watermarked): Download Copic Blank Color Chart 2PG 2017-Sharon Harnist I'M A BEGINNER, what colors do you recommend getting? This is the number one question I'm always asked, along with "Which colors blend well together?" I put together this chart of...
I have been working on this for some time. I am a visual person and I have accumulated lists and lists of Copic blending families from my favorite guru's but, never could visualize them. One day I was in my LSS... Be Creative in Pitt Meadows, B.C. and Lisa Strahl had hers there. I thought what a wonderful idea! So...I began. I started with 4-1/4 by 5-1/2 but the pages were going to be too small and the book would be too thick so I started over and went with half-sheets. I decided to use my stock of Gina K Pure Luxury as: 1) I was not a fan of the paper (I know people rave about it but, I have way too much trouble blending on it) and 2) It was nice and thick with no bleed-through to the other side....perfect for my book. I got all the paper cut to size, my binding coil at hand, my Cinch ready to bind and I picked up a sheet of heavy-duty acetate/mylar stuff...cut it in half and it was perfect for the front and back protective covers. I started at the internet with digital clip art. I could have stamped it all but, I am such a newbie at stamping and there were so many images to do....I decided to go with digital instead. I searched until I found the images I wanted to represent my swatches....blank faces, hair, flowers, leaves, etc. I created my templates and printed off all my pages.....sat down one night with my Copics and colored the pages in. I split each section by color and representation. I was not concerned with the actual representation of....say a leaf or a barrel but, with the laying down of my color blending families. I am really, really happy with it. I can sit down now...open the book...look for a color family I want...see the main color, the highlight and the shadow....grab my markers and color. No more guessing! Have a wonderful day!
I discovered copics only in August 2012 and am so glad that I did. They are fantastic markers and some people can colour just beautifully with them (I hope the more I practice the better I get!) Since they come in such a range of colours (and I do have a few now) I have found it hard to keep track of what colours I used for which pictures and what colour combinations I like the best. I found myself (not sure if the word is wasting time, learning or playing :-) ) with my copics for at least 30 mins before I got around to actually colouring my picture because it took me that long to go through my copics and find the best colour combinations I liked for the particular picture I was colouring at the time. So I started a little A5 size book just for my copics where I tried to start keeping track of colours and techniques that I was learning / discovering. Ideally copics need to be used on special card, such as X-Press It blending paper, however, I couldn't find a "book" with just this paper and I was too lazy to go bind my own! So I just bought a plain art diary with 110 gsm card. The copics do bleed through the paper so I either use a scrap piece of card behind the page I'm working on or complete my picture / technique on X-Press It blending card first, cut it out and stick it in my book. Imagine my joy when I discovered that X-Press Graph-X have now released a X-Press It Blending Journal - which is a book full of the X-Press It blending card! Yay! Also, on the Copic Oz blog a Copic Blending Template (get them from this site) has also been released. I have found the templates a fantastic idea. In my Copic book I was just either writing the copic colours down and making a coloured mark below the "number" or stamping a picture, colouring it in and writing down what the colours were. But I have found the template to be one step better, because I can still stamp pictures and colour them in but the template also allows me to show the blend between the colours I used and you can also see the actual colour themselves. Here are some pictures of my journal before I started using the template: As you can see the copics don't blend very well on this plain 110 gsm card. Stamps: Sizzix and Hero Arts Stamp and Die cut set #657852 This tree is one of the digital images you get on a CD when you buy Annie's Attic (Paper Crafts) Copic Colouring Guide Level 2: Nature by Colleen Schaan and Marianne Walker. The colours that I have used are not the same as the ones they show you in the book as part of the tutorial. Stamp: Flourishes "Cherry Blossoms" And now... this is some of what I have created with the Copic Blending Template: Stamp: Sturt's Desert Rose from Flourishes "Bloomin Aussie Florals" I find this sooo much easier to see the difference between the colour combinations and am able to more easily pick which colours I want to use for my pictures. As you can see I have left room for more colour combinations. Stamp: Part of the tree from the Penny Black "Teddy & Company" set Stamp: AnnaBelle Stamps "Ballerina Rose" This is only the beginning :-) Entering this post (showing my use of the copic blending template) in the Copic Oz: Technique Journal #1 Colour Swatches competition to win a free X-Press It Blending Journal! See more of my copic colour combinations and techniques: Skin Colours Colourless Blender techniques Hair Colours More colour combinations Copic combinations added to Journal in 2014 I have also started a Copic page - you can view it here.
Hello everyone!It’s finally time for another countdown day to the new MFT release!? isn’t exciting? For today’s post I’ve decided to think outside (my) box and try using a d…
Here is a very simple technique for rendering bushes, and can be applies to trees, or other plants. I use this technique more for bushes that are in the background, that you don't want to stand out or don't need much detail. Coloring Simple Background Bushes 1. Start by picking 3 colors. One nice thing about greens is that on a plant you don't need to be as careful about following the Natural blending family, as long as you have a light, middle and dark that aren't too different. Leaves in sunlight tend to look more yellow and bright so I usually pick a light YG in the 00's or 10's with a last digit of 0 - 3 for my highlight, and shadows tend to have more gray, so I go with a G or YG in the 60's-90's with a last digit of 7, 8 or 9 2. Think about the plants around your bush. If your bushes are exactly the same colors as your grass they may look a little strange, so I try to vary the two (I talked about coloring grass earlier). Have some bushes lighter and some bushes darker so people can tell they're not the same kind of plant. 3. Choose a highlight. Usually on top or slightly off to one side. 4. Begin Coloring There are few main ways I do bushes, but the ways I'll cover today are Smooth, Scribbling, or Stippling. The main thing to keep in mind is that bushes are irregular. Individual leaves pick up the light from different directions, but if you try to carefully draw every single leaf on a bush you'll go insane. So my methods are for simple coloring that gives the illusion of complexity without the hard work. Smooth Color with your lightest color first. For smooth blends, layer your next color while the base is still wet, add your next darker color, color back over the edges with your light color, then add your darkest color, again going over the edges with your middle and light colors until the edges disappear. For crisp edges between color layers let each color dry completely and don't go back over the edges with a lighter color each time. Too bad this doesn't look very believable- it's just a smooth lump of green, not really a bush. Scribble Scribble the base color on, since the uneven coloring helps accent the roughness of leaves. Then layer on your midtone, again coloring unevenly, and last add your dark. How much or how little of each color is a matter of personal taste. I like this method because I can leave some spots of white- areas that act as natural highlights, and it's much quicker than smooth coloring. Stippled Dot on your lightest color, leaving lots of white, Add dots of your darker color, and finally finish up with your darkest color. If you are using a Ciao or Sketch marker this is the easiest technique, and you have two options. You can have either round dots by mushing your tip straight down, or you can have individual leaves by using the side of the brush marker. Note: scribbled and stippled bushes will draw your eyes more than smooth bushes. Why? The crisper lines and bright white spots attract our attention more than a smoothly colored bush. So if you don't want the bushes to attract as much attention, leave less white areas and make sure the base color is more muted. Then the parts of your picture you care more about will stand out more. Remember also that our eyes are drawn to things with more contrast. If you don't want people to focus on your bushes then color them with less contrast. Also, if you color something in front of these bushes that has super smooth, beautiful blends and then you have scribbled or stippled bushes in the background it will look strange. In this case you've lost your continuity. It's like the bushes were an afterthought. Combo Here I want the feel of individual leaves, but I want them to not stand out as much, so my first two color layers are smooth, then I dotted on the darkest green. Now you get the feel of individual leaves, but it has less sharp contrast than stippled by itself. This technique was very quick, it goes with more foreground elements than scribbled or stippled only, and is not as fake looking as smooth bushes.
Copic 101, all you need to know to get started - Read more from the {creative chick} | shurkus.com blog & more ideas from our "tutorial" section.
Hi, Copic fans! Hallo Copic-Freunde! Today I'm going to show you some colour combinations for hair. There are a lot of combinations yo...
[Werbung wegen Markenerkennung] Hallo Ihr Lieben, wie coloriere ich mit meinen Prismacolor Stiften? Diese Frage habe ich von vielen sch...
Another Monday rolls around, bringing with it a whole new week of possibilities and colour! It seems much better when you look at it that way, right? Positivity through colour! This week I’m addressing a topic that I know many of you have been hoping for: Pleats and Folds. I have used Copic Markers for… Continue reading Marker Geek Monday: Copic Pleats and Folds Step by Step with Colouring Video
mijn creatieve uitspattingen
Hello Crafty friends! I’m back with a new coloring I’ve made with the new MFT stamps Release! The new release is packed with amazing products…and there’s something for everyone! Stamps, Dies and ev…
Copic Marker Underpainting swatches. Real shade is not darker, it's desaturated. To create desaturated color which Copic does not make, we teach online workshops with the underpainting method. Students layer rather than blend. Underpainting creates natural colors found in everyday life. In this swat
Copic Color system Copic has a perfect Color system, no other marker in the market has it. Therefore you are able to get perfect color combinations and blending results. *** Copic hat ein perfektes Farbsystem, wie es kein anderer Marker hat. Damit ist es möglich, perfekte Farbkombinationen und -übergänge zu erzielen. There is the Copic Color Wheel and the color code at the markers. *** Es gibt das Copic Farb-Rad und die Farbnummern auf den Markern. On every Copic marker you find a color name. This is a combination of a letter(s) and two or more numbers. Understanding this code will help you to choose the color combinations you need for your projects. *** Auf jedem Copic Marker befindet sich ein Farbname, eine Kombination auf Buchstabe(n) und zwei oder mehr Nummern. Diesen Code zu verstehen hilft, die Farbkombinationen zu wählen, die Du für Dein Projekt benötigst. In our Swatch book these families are grouped together for easy reference. *** Im Copic Farbbuch sind diese Familie des besseren Überblicks wegen zusammen gruppiert. Color Family *** Farbfamilie The letter at the beginning of your color name (B, BV, V, RV, R, YR, Y, YG, G, E (earth), F (Florescent), *** Dies ist der Buchstabe am Anfang des Farbnamens (B, BV, V, RV, R, YR, Y, YG, G, E (Erde), F (fluoreszierend)) Grays & Blacks: C (Cool Gray), N (Neutral Gray), T (Toner Gray), W (Warm Gray) 100 Black, 110 Special Black gives the name of the color family. Blending colors gives a best results within a color family. *** Grau und Schwarz: C (Cool - Kühles Grau), N (Neutrales Grau), T (Toner-Grau), W (Warmes Grau), 100 Schwarz, 110 Spezial-Schwarz. Diese Buchstaben geben die Namen der Farbfamilie an. Innerhalb einer Farbfamilie erzielt Ihr die besten Übergänge. Color Saturation *** Farbsättigung This is the first digit on a color name. Colors that are 00's, 10's, or 20's will be more vibrant (B05, G16, R29), while colors that are in the 70's, 80's or 90's have more gray added (B95, BG78, G94) and are closer to the neutral/earthy end of the color spectrum. Note: E (Earth) markers don't necessarily follow this rule *** Die Farbsättigung wird von der ersten Zahl im Farbnamen angegeben. Farben aus den 00-, 10- oder 20-Gruppen (z. B. B05, G16, R29) sind intensiver während Farben aus den 70-, 80- oder 90-Gruppen (z. B. B95, BG78, G94) mehr Grau enthalten und nahe am neutralen/erdigen Ende der Farbpalette liegen. Hinweis: E(Erdtöne)-Marker folgen dieser Regel nicht immer. Both jeans are colored with Blue, the first one in the vibrant 00 group and the second one in the darkest 90-group *** Beide Jeanshosen sind mit Blautönen coloriert, die erste mit den Farben der leuchtenden 00-Gruppe, die zweite mit der dunkelsten Gruppe 90. Color Shade *** Farbton The last number tells you how light or dark the shade is. Light colors have a value of 0, 1,2 or 3. Middle tones 4,5 or 6 and the darkest have a value of 7,8 and 9. The more grey is added the more vintage a color will be. You will find them in the markers with a 7,8 or 9 at the end. *** Die letzte Nummer zeigt an, wie hell oder dunkel der Farbton ist. Helle Farben tragen die Nummer 0, 1, 2 oder 3, Mitteltöne die Nummern 4, 5, oder 6 und die dunkelsten 7, 8 oder 9. Je mehr Grau einer Farbe beigemischt ist, desto klassischer (Vintage-Look) wird sie sein. Am besten geeignet sind hier die Marker mit einer 7, 8 oder 9 am Ende. Here is the first jeans colored with the lightest shades from the 90 group and the second with the darkest shades. *** Die erste Jeanshose hier ist mit den hellsten Tönen der 90-Gruppe coloriert, für die zweite Hose wurden die dunkelsten Töne verwendet. Color Group *** Farbgruppe A sequential group of colors within one color family with the same first digit (B91-93-95-97-99) where numbers ending in 0 are the lightest and 9 is the darkest, also called Natural Blending Group. Such a range is perfect for blending. *** In einer aufeinanderfolgenden Gruppe von Farben innerhalb einer Farbfamilie, die die gleiche erste Zahl haben (z. B. B91 - B93 - B95 - B97 - B99) sind die Zahlen, die auf 0 enden, die hellsten und die mit der Zahl 9 am Ende die dunkelsten. Diese Markerfolge nennt man auch eine "natural blending group". Zu Deutsch könnte man das wohl übersetzen mit "eine Gruppe von Farben, die miteinander natürliche Übergänge schafft". Mit einer solchen Reihe an Markern lassen sich perfekte Farbübergänge erzielen. In the unique Copic Color Wheel you will see that the colors with the lowest digit are at the outside of the Wheel and the ones with the highest first digit are near the center, near the grey-tones. You can also see which grey-tone is added to a color family. Download the Copic Color Wheel here. *** Im einzigartigen Copic-Farbrad sind alle Farben mit den niedrigen Nummern am äußeren Rand des Rades angebracht and die mit den höchsten Nummern sind nahe der Mitte angeordnet, nahe den Grautönen. Ihr könnt auch sehen, welche Grautöne einer Farbe zugefügt wurden. Ihr könnt Euch das Copic-Farbrad hier herunterladen. How to pick blending colors: *** So wählt man die Farben, die am besten ineinander überlaufen: To instantly tell if a color will blend evenly with the next darker or lighter shade, choose markers like this: 1. Match the color letters, keeping the color family the same. 2. Match the middle number, this will keep the tone the same. The last number tells you how light or dark the shade is. We advise to choose 3 or 4 markers: · For Highlights, pick a last number with a value of 0, 1, 2, or 3. · For Mid tones, choose numbers 4, 5, or 6. · For Shadows, choose colors with the last number of 7, 8, or 9. Also try to keep a 2 or 3 digit difference between your colors. Using more colors achieves smoother blends. *** Um sagen zu können ob ein Farbton mit der nächst höher- oder niedrigergelegenen Farbnummer einen guten Übergang ergibt, sollten die Marker wie folgt ausgewählt werden: 1. Wählt den gleichen Buchstaben und bleibt in der gleichen Farbfamilie 2. Verwendet die selben "mittleren" Nummern so daß der Farbton derselbe bleibt. Die letzte Nummer sagt aus, wie hell oder dunkel eine Farbe ist. Wir raten, 3 oder 4 Marker zu wählen: ~ für die Highlights im Motiv wählt einen Marker mit der Endziffer 0, 1, 2 oder 3; ~ für die mittleren Töne wählt Marker mti der Endziffer 4, 5 oder 6; für Schatten wählt Marker mit der Endziffer 7, 8 oder 9. Versucht, 2 oder 3 Ziffern Unterschied zu wählen. Je mehr Farben verwendet werden, desto besser werden die Farbübergänge. Blender The Copic Colorless Blender pen/ink. This is ethanol based and is not the same as blender pens from other companies. Used for fixing mistakes, making colors lighter and for special effects. We will come back with tutorials about the use of the blender. *** Der Copic Colorless Blender ist auf Ethanol-Basis hergestellt und ist nicht das selbe wie die Blenderpens anderer Hersteller. Der Copic Blender kann zum Korrigieren von Fehlern, Aufhellen von Farben und für spezielle Effekte verwendet werden. Wir werden bald mit Tutorials für die verschiedenen Verwendungsmöglichkeiten des Blenders zurücksein. Tip: To alter your embellishment like buttons, brads, charms, Rhine-stones use marker with a high last digit, because the Copic ink is transparent. *** Um Embellishments wie Knöpfe, Brads, Charms und Glitzersteine an Euer Projekt anzupassen verwendet Marker mit einer hohen Endziffer, denn Copic-Farbe ist transparent. Hope this will help youto choose the right color combinations, *** Ich hoffe, dies wird Euch helfen, die richtigen Farbkombinationen auszuwählen, Greetings Diny Sprakel My blog: Creadin
Hi everyone! I had some request about a hair tutorial so today I will show you my way of colouring hair step by step. Here´s an image I drew with a black pencil, sorry about the poor quality of it.. I don´t have the technology to make it into a clean digi ;p You can use this image as you want. Copics needed: E50, E53, E57, E49. The only thing to practice is THIN LINES!!! First color a SMALL part of the hair with E50. Then make quick light-handed strokes with E57 following the shape of the hair. Don´t try to make the lines even! Some are long, some are short! Narrow ONLY THE TIP of the darker lines with E53 (don´t try to blend anything just continue the line to make it narrower and longer) New strokes with E49... I made them too thick here =p try to be more light-handed ;) Soften the tip of the dark strockes with E57. (Don´t worry if it doesn´t look good now, you can always get back to it in the end) Great! Let´s colour another part of the hair. Same thing, start with E50 and make some strokes with E57 by following the shape of the hair. Continue narrowing the tip of the lines with E53. E49 And soften the dark lines with E57 and the tips with E53 if needed. Now another area =) E50 and E57 following the shape of the hair... so toward the ponytail! Then the same lines with E49 And soften with E57. New area! E50 and E57 following the shape of the hair toward the ponytail. E49 Soften with E57 And soften ONLY the tip of the line with E53 Now another area! First E50 then strockes with E57 following the shape. E49 Soften with E57 and E53... You can play with the strokes until you are happy with it! So more E49 and E57 ;)) The ponytail! Same pattern... E50 and E57. E49 Soften with E57 and then only the tips with E53 Almost finished! The rest of the ponytails.. That´s it! Hope this helped =)
Let’s talk about choosing Copic green colors. Greens are a color that Copic doesn’t do well; I’m not particularly sure if it’s not the color’s fault – they’re a bear to mix yourself. Or maybe they’re a frog, not a bear! This fun new Frog set from Art Impressions just makes me laugh so hard […]
Hoi allemaal, Wil je het boekje kopen via mijn Esty store Besasseld Mocht je iets vinden wat niet klopt of of als je wat mist kun je dit laten weten via [email protected] You van buy it at my Esty store Besasseld If you find something that is not right or if you miss something on these pages, please let me know at [email protected] Lots of fun with colouring Hugs, Download link for Blank Copic Colours page 01-02 with watermark
1. First stamp your image using copic-friendly ink of choice - I prefer Memento Tuxedo Black ink (or print out image if using a digital image). The image I am using is a digital image from Some Odd Girl that I cropped for a tutorial/class on coloring hair. She is called Alice Mae. 2. I start with my darkest color. In the sample below I used E25 as my darkest color. Color the deepest shadows and roots using a very light flicking motion or feathered stroke. Your strokes should always begin at the darkest part of the hair and brush outward. You should also color in the same direction as the strands of hair. 3. Take your next darkest color or your mid-tone, in this case E31, and very lightly flick from about a third of the way into the darker color toward the "highlight", covering part of the strokes you already colored. 4. At this point, I go back to the darkest color (E25) and darken up the edges again using the very light flicking motion. 5. Then I go back in with mid-tone, E31, and blend the E25 edges out using the very light flicking motion. You could be done at this point if you prefer a lot of highlights or white space. For this class or tutorial, I chose to continue on with another step. 6. For the final step I used the lightest color, in this case E50, to lightly blend out the mid-tone color E31. Again I used a very light flicking motion starting about a third of the way into the mid-tone color and flicking into the lightest area. I used very little of the E50 to blend. 7. I finished coloring the entire head of hair using the same technique throughout. If you have any questions, please let me know. Hope to see you all coloring again real soon! Marcy