I thought I'd get the New Year of 2012 off to an Ackermann's start and post the wonderful Furniture plates they published for the years 1809-1828. Back in the Regency your home fashions were just as important as your personal wardrobe so Ackermann's included nearly as many furniture plates as it did fashions in every monthly issue. I have found these images to be a wonderful treasure trove of digital inspiration and I hope you do too. My favorite of all the Furniture plates have to be the curtains - I love them so much that I devoted an entire blog post to them in November 2011 that can be seen HERE. I even digitally altered many of my favorites for easy use in digital artwork and posted those new creations to my deviantART account so other artists could use them too - I hope you take a look at them both. My top pick for the 1809-1815 furniture plates is this Library Couch from 1811 done in a Regency "Greek Revival" Style Frame for the above image was created by me and can be found on my deviantART account - HERE A bit about Ackermann's for those who are new to my Ackermann blog posts. Ackermann's Repository was a popular periodical, published in England from 1809-1828. It's full name was "The Repository of Arts, Literature, Commerce, Manufactures, Fashion, and Politics" published by R. Ackermann. but it was referred to as simply Ackermann's Repository to keep it simple. These monthly issues were produced with the intention of binding each collection into book form (2 volumes per year) and so the plates in each issue were were numbered accordingly into 3 series; Series 1 ran from 1809-1815 Series 2 ran from 1816 - 1822 Series 3 ran from 1823 - 1828 The repository included a wide variety of entertaining articles including the latest in furnishing trends. Today I'm posting the hand colored furniture plates that were published for series 1 (1809-1815) *** See my previous blog posts from June 29, 2011 - Dec 31, 2011 for other Ackermann images.*** Ackermann Repository Furniture Plates from 1809 - 1815 These hand-colored furniture plates from AR series 1 (1809 - 1815) show the popular and cutting edge in home decor for this time period in England. Those with large disposable incomes would regularly update their home to stay current with the trends just as they regularly changed their wardrobes. However those of lesser means would have use this information as inspiration for adding accents or key pieces to their homes so as to stay in the" mode" as it were. Several styles such as Grecian (neo-classical) and Gothic were considered acceptable styles throughout 1809-1828 so redecorating to stay in fashion could be as simple as recovering existing furniture in a new fabric, hanging new drapes and painting a room an "in fashion" color. These are all things that need to be done anyway from time to time to avoid having a "shabby" home; so when you really think about it, it resembles how many of us may update our home too from time to time. This reminds me it's time to paint my kitchen - giggles. 1809 This was the first year for Ackermann's Repository so the furniture plates they printed were fairly normal home items such as tables, chairs, sofas and ladies toilet sets. There was lots of beautiful gilded wood and some amazing trims. I just love all the trims on the Regency items, be they furniture or fashion. 1809 - Sofa Bed from Ackermann's Repository 1809 - Drawing Room Chair Table and Accessories from Ackermann's Repository 1809 - Chaise Lounge and Window Seat from Ackermann's Repository 1809 - Ladies Secretary and Parlor Chair from Ackermann's Repository 1809 - Library Sofa and Candelabra from Ackermann's Repository 1809 - Ladies Toilet, Fauteuil, Footstool and Chamber Bath from Ackermann's Repository Fauteuil - an 18th century, open-arm, carved relief, wooden chair with upholstered seat. Chamber Bath - A wash basin type of personal bath you would sit in to clean yourself. (not the full immersion type of bathtubs we have today). Here is the full Ackermann's description for the above 1809 Ladies Toilet Ackermann's Description of the Ladies Toilet and Accessories 1809 - Drawing Room Chairs from Ackermann's Repository Ackermann's Repository showed many furniture items in the Grecian style for 1809. Beautiful wood with gilding, rich upholstered fabrics and lovely fringes and tassels. Curtains were also considered part of the furniture plates they published. These are two Ackermann's published in 1809. To see all the Regency curtains from Ackermann's click HERE To me this looks like a leopard spotted curtain and is one of my favorites 1809 - French curtain from Ackermann's Repository 1810 With the first year of publication behind them Ackermann's Repository chose to show some innovative furnishings and contraptions in their second year of publication. A circular movable bookcase, convertible globe writing tables, and even a Regency era invalid chair "wheelchair" was included in the furniture plates for 1810. 1810 - A new innovation - Circular Movable Bookcase from Ackermann's Repository 1810 - Gothic Library Furniture (Sofa, Table, Chair and Footstool) from Ackermann's Repository 1810 - Patent Sideboard and Dining Tables from Ackermann's Repository The above image if for the a Patented Sideboard with Dining Tables. This could be commissioned in any size needed and was made in such a way that the dining tables can be shut up within the sideboard when not in use and the extra table leaves are stored as shown in the middle top drawer of the sideboard. 1810 - Convertible Globe / Writing Table from Ackermann's Repository 1810 - Comfortable Salon and Library Chairs from Ackermann's Repository 1810 - Sideboard and Dining Room Chair from Ackermann's Repository 1810 - Banquette suite of sofa and chair - furniture for summer or foreign climates from Ackermann's Repository 1810 - Invalid Chair "Wheelchair" from Ackermann's Repository Below is the Ackermann's description for this innovative chair. Ackermann's Repository Description of the Invalid Chair from Ackermann's Repository 1810 - Innovative Library or Bedroom Chairs with Attached Accessories from Ackermann's Repository 1810 - Curtain Designs from Ackermann's Repository 1811 Ackermann's continued to show us more interesting furniture innovations in the 1811 issues. Among them were; a ladies convertible work/game table, a library chair that would flip and become a set of steps and the most interesting Merlin's Chair for invalids. 1811 - Swan embellished Circular Sofa from Ackermann's Repository 1811 - Two Drawing Room Chairs from Ackermann's Repository 1811 - Library Couch from Ackermann's Repository 1811 - Military Couch Bed from Ackermann's Repository 1811 - Ladies Work/Game Table from Ackermann's Repository 1811 - Bookcase from Ackermann's Repository 1811 - Merlin's Mechanical Chair and other ideas of modern transportation. The above chair as it stands was intended as another version of an invalid chair or "wheelchair" as we might call it; however the article that accompanied it also references may possibilities for a design such as this and I found it to be a most interesting read, so I have included it below. The author speculates that it could be powered by a small steam-engine (a Regency motorized wheelchair if you can image that) or that with an alteration in the design the steam powered contraption could be mounted with a small cannon (a Regency personal tank?) or even a new mode of self-moving engine for public conveyance. I just found this fascinating and I hope you do too. Ackermann's Description for the Merlin Chair Above 1811 - Convertible Library Chair/Steps from Ackermann's Repository 1811 - Card/Writing/Sofa Table and Trafalgar Chair from Ackermann's Repository This innovative "gadget" table is a small, square, card table that can be converted into a double reading/writing table so that two persons can sit opposite each other to read or write without being able to overlook what the other - for privacy. And finally by drawing out the ornamental brackets on either end, the writing/reading surfaces flip down so the item becomes a sofa table. Two Window Curtain designs were published by Ackermann's in 1811 as part of the Furniture Plates. 1811 - French Window Curtain from Ackermann's Repository 1811 - French Drapery Design from Ackermann's Repository 1812 Ackermann's Repository showed more traditional items of furniture in their 1812 issues; however some of these items still contained a few fun "extras" to keep them interesting. 1812 - Bed created for the Marquis of Winchester less the family crest and other ornaments. 1812 - Cabinet Piano-Forte from Messrs. Wilkinson & Wornum of Oxford St. 1811 - Library Bookcase and retractable Writing Table 1812 - Ladies Toilette/Dressing Case This was a most intriguing piece of ladies furniture that just could not be explained in a few words so I have opted to include the full Ackermann's description below for your entertainment. Description of the above shown Ladies Dressing Case 1812 - Library Table and Chair by Ackermann's Repository 1812 - French Sofa and Drawing Room Chair by Ackermann's Repository 1812 - French Scroll Sofa and Table by Ackermann's Repository 1812 - Furnishings of Candelabrum, Footstool and Table 1812 - Bookcase by Ackermann's Repository 1812 - French curtain for the Library or Morning Room 1812 - Window Curtain for the Drawing Room 1813 Ackermann's published some fairly ordinary furnishings for 1813; however the Pocock patented reclining chair was a bit out of the norm and though they called it a tastefully classic design I believe I would have skipped the gargoyles had I ordered one in 1813. 1813 - State Bed by Ackermann's Repository 1813 - Patent Fireplace - I used the blue part of the surround to create a frame HERE - see full post HERE 1813 - Cabinet and Dwarf Table (table for library, sitting room or boudoir) Patented Reclining Chair - re-positionable back with double reclining foot-rest and attached table in a classical style. 1813 - A variety of fashionable Footstools 1813 - Antique style Sofa and Table 1813 - 2 chairs 1813 - French Window Treatments and various room accessories There were also about a half dozen "Gothic" architectural plates published in various 1813 issues. (Conservatory, Hall, Library, Staircase, and Bedchamber). Click HERE to see the previous post where those items 1813 Gothic items can be seen. 1814 Chairs seemed to be the theme in 1814, most of the furniture plates for that year included at least one. I'm not sure if it were a new trend to replace one's chairs or if it was simply one of the more economical items in furnishings that could be purchased to update the look of a room. 1814 - Library Desk and Chair 1814 - Convertible Writing/Game Table 1814 - Bookcase with Fold-Away Writing Table 1814 - Table and Chair from Carlton House 1814 - Ottoman Couch 1814 - Bedroom Chairs ( I would not want to sit in one of these too long) 1814 - Hall Chairs (an uncomfortable seat for anyone requested to "wait here" by a servant of the house) 1814 - Parlor Chairs (come and sit for a while but don't stay too long) 1814 - Drawing Room Chairs (oh look at my pretty chairs, sit a while but don't dare lean back) 1814 - Window Treatments 1815 Three window treatments and a decorated room were included as Furniture plates in Ackermann's Repository 1815 issues. 1815 - French Cottage Bed and Chair 1815 - French Sofa, tables and lamp with globe for argand gas light 1815 - Table, Rack and Chair for an Artist or Collector 1815 - Furniture for a Music Room 1815 - Dining and Drawing Room Chairs 1815 - Sofa, Worktable and Candelabrum with argand lamp globe for gas light 1815 - Items that could display artwork such as embroidery or ladies drawings according to the full description in AR 1815 - Furnished French style Bed Chamber including draperies 1815 - Curtain for the Library 1815 - Drawing Room Window Curtain - similar to that in the French Bed Chamber 1815 - Draperies I hope you have enjoyed my start to the New Year with the first of 3 posts showing the Regency era furniture plates from Ackermann's Repository. If you are like me there will be items here you love and others that make you wonder "what were they thinking" but all in all I have to say most of the items are quite beautiful even though many of them did not look very comfortable. I guess that factor alone would have made you want to get up and move around rather than to become a couch potato. Join me again next time for the furnishings in Ackermann's Series 2 (1816 - 1822) Thanks for visiting me here at EKDuncan.blogspot.com If you have enjoyed seeing these images from Ackermann's Repository and would like the opportunity to see and read an original for yourself they are are available on line at www.archive.org Click HERE then choose the volume you are interested in. You can then see and read them online or download them to your computer for future reference. Enjoy!

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Miss Jane Porter apparently wore a Fichu. The Fichu, the chemisette—false sleeves... these are little fripperies that can change the look of a gown dramatically. When you are into costuming, you can spend a lot of time sewing gowns and amassing a massive wardrobe of gowns simply because you want a variety of options. Sometimes having the right accessories can really change up looks that you already have. The fichu comes in a variety of forms. Its purpose, as was the chemisette, was to fill in the neckline and to add a little je-ne-sais-quoi to your clothes. Some pretty chemisettes. A chemisette is a small 'dickie' of sorts; a sleeveless, or sometimes sleeved light-fabric blouselet that was put on before the gown as a neckline filler. Some were simple, some quite elaborate. A fichu serves a similar purpose, but is not an actual shirt. It's a piece of fabric wrapped around the neck and shoulders to cover and also highlight the decolletage of the wearer. It is my experience, looking at the images of extant garments over the years, that items of Regency clothing, although similar in silhouette and style, were often constructed quite differently by different people. As people are today, they were also back in those days, imaginative, inventive and thrifty. They would use and reuse fabrics, and they would find ways to make their items particularly special. Since the only thing that was mass produced were the fabrics, there’s no end to the variations in construction. The Fichu is a perfect example of how the simple act of filling a neckline became a sort of competition of creativity, starting with the thickly ruched necklines of the early Regency to the froo-froo ruffled collars of the late Regency. They are really indispensable necessities for any regency wardrobe, and lend a touch of authenticity that wearing just wearing a gown cannot achieve. This is a different application of a fichu (left). Tied 'round the neck, in front of the arms and then around the waist. It is also a coloured fichu. All you really need is your imagination, some very nice sheer fabrics and laces, and a couple of hours if your good in order to make some little accessories that will change your gown’s appearance completely. Fichus were worn underneath the bodice and over the bodice. They varied in shape from a rectangle to a triangle. Some covered the exposed neckline, while others only served to dress the existing neckline. Some were long, others were just slips of laced netting. In portraits, you see a variety of opacities in fabric, from the sheerest of the sheer, as delicate as dragonfly wings, to only slightly transparent, densely woven laces and embroidered nets. A lovely post about fichus with some lovely extant examples. The trick is to decide what looks you want for yourself, and then using the very basic shapes to construct those desired items. For chemisettes; there are a few patterns available where you can construct the basic garment, and then build upon it in lace and ruffles and such. Sense & Sensibility (Regency Underthings Pattern includes 2 styles of chemisette) Rocking Horse Farm Early 19th Century Gown (includes a chemisette) Regency Neck Ruffs were often added on over chemisettes. Here are some tips on how to make a neck ruff: Historical Reproductions' Neck Ruff Tutorial Elizabethans were not the only ones who thought lace-ruffs were the pinnacle of fashion. Neck ruffs got more elaborate as the late Regency wore on. fashions were getting frillier and frillier. As for the Fichu, it does not necessarily require a pattern to make one. You can build them right on your dress-form or you can just use general measurements and cut them from there. Depending on how much you want full you want your ruching around your neckline, you can adjust the width of the fabric accordingly. Your key measurement points are your shoulder width, and the distance between the back of your regency waistline and the front. If you’re going to wear it on the outside of your gown, then you can make the ‘lapettes’ as long as you want them to be. I’ve seen lots of images of older women with fichus on their shoulders with panels that hang down the front the full length of their dress. It’s very pretty. I'm slightly crazy about the hat, I must say. Here are a few styles of Fichu I’ve seen in either fashion plates, costume mining in adaptations or portraits. These drawings are open for interpretation, because again, these were made individually and to a person’s tastes. You can add and subtract from the basic shape to your heart’s delight. Each image has a number. Below all the examples is a key with the very basic shaping of the chemisette drawn out on it. Keep in mind, I measured these based on my body--there is NO substitute for your OWN measurements. If you don't have a dress-form, then measure it on yourself. And measure twice, cut ONCE. If you make something too short, you can always add lace edging, or ruffles--it's not a science, it's all about creativity. If you use the foundation shapes and measurements, they sky is the limit in what you can do from there. The simplest form of fichu. A rectangle, ruched and then tucked. Another rectangle, with a cut for the neck. The tuckable triangle. The triangle worn on the top of the gown. With long 'lapettes' in front. I've seen these made to the length of the dress. This can be made, and set with drawstrings to set the shape and gathering. Recommended fabrics for Fichu (as a strong recommendation I suggest you try to stick to silk and cotton products) : Cotton or silk netting. Voile. Batiste Organdy (although it can be crunchy and stiff but it works wonders for ruffled collars) Silk or cotton gauze Cotton Lawn (please pardon my hasty, and quite awful drawings!)

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Regency romance fiction often has an incident or event taking place in a country inn in England. The first thirty years of the nineteenth century saw the growth of such hostelries as the rise of coach and post-chaise travel expanded and peaked. I really like to read contemporary descriptions which help inspiration for writing. The first is by the English writer, George Borrow. ...an army of servants... was kept; waiters, chambermaids, grooms, postillions, shoe-blacks, cooks, scullions, and what not, for there was a barber and hair-dresser who had been at Paris, and talked French with a cockney accent...Jacks creaked in the kitchens turning round spits, on which large joints of meat piped and smoked before great fires. There was running up and down stairs, and along galleries, slamming of doors, cries of "Coming, sir," and "Please to step this way, ma'am," during eighteen hours of the four and twenty. Truly a very great place for life and bustle was this inn. The next description is from an American writer, Henry Tuckerman. The coffee room of the best class of English inns, carpeted and curtained, the dark rich hue of old mahogany, the ancient plate, the four-post bed, the sirloin or mutton joint, the tea, muffins, Cheshire and Stilton, the ale, the coal-fire and The Times, form an epitome of England; and it is only requisite to ponder well the associations and history of each of these items to arrive at what is essential in English history and character. The impassable divisions of society are shown...the time-worn aspect of the furniture is eloquent of conservatism; the richness of the meats and strength of the ale explain the bone and sinew of the race; the tea is fragrant with Cowper's memory, and suggestive of East India conquests; the cheese proclaims a thrifty agriculture, the bed and draperies comfort, the coal manufactures; while The Times is the chart of English enterprise, division of labour, wealth, self-esteem, politics, trade, court-life, "inaccessibility to ideas" and bullyism. I can think of a few inns still existing today which still embody most of the above and where, as you walk in, the ghosts of the past seem thick in the air about you. The top print shows the west country mails at the Gloucester coffee house, Piccadilly, an engraving after James Pollard, and the second shows a bedroom at an inn from Eugene Lami's Voyage en Angleterre, 1830. Jane Odiwe

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The following lists of incomes and expenditures can be found in A New System of Practical Domestic Economy, published in London in 1823. The book contains more estimates than the ones below. I removed the estimates that I felt were redundant thus upsetting the numbering sequences. Sorry. The estimates increase per annum income. The final list … Continue reading "Cost of Living in the Regency Era"