Wide field landscape astrophotography is an impressive form of photography, and it’s accessible to nearly everyone with a camera. Astrophotography has become much easier in the last decade, e…
By David Pierce and Vlad Savov Cameras are everywhere. There’s one in your laptop, two in your phone, and probably a pair in your tablet that you’ve never used. There’s maybe one in your doorbell,...
Being able to correctly read the histogram will help you expose correctly on location but also avoid potential issues in the editing process.
Read about the best photography exposure settings and learn how to read a histogram in order to get the correct exposure for your photo.
Inside: Need camera metering modes explained? Understand your camera’s metering modes and learn how to choose the best DSLR metering mode for amazing images! This post may contain affiliate l…
Inside: Think you can’t take great photos because you don’t have enough light in your house? These tips for low light photography at home will change your mind. Disclaimer: This contains affiliate …
This month's Boost Your Photography: 52 Weeks Challenge - Shooting Modes - has been leading up to this point: full manual mode. Manual mode is far less intimidating than it may appear at first. This post will walk you through the basics of how to use manual mode to your advantage. (Missed out on the earlier shooting mode posts? Catch up by reading about program mode, shutter priority mode, and aperture priority mode.) Manual Mode Manual mode puts you, the photographer, in charge of all of the settings involved in your final image. While this might sound like a lot of responsibility, it is actually only a small step up from shooting in aperture or shutter priority modes. In those modes, you choose two of the three major settings, while the camera chooses the third. (There are, of course, many other settings within your camera, but you can read more about those settings elsewhere in Missed the Shot? Remember Camera Zero.) In manual mode, you choose all three settings: ISO, aperture, and shutter speed. But you are not simply pulling numbers out of thin air. You have two different strategies that you can use when shooting in manual mode: using your light meter or using the 'rule' of Sunny f/16. Each of these options is explained in detail below. Using Your Light Meter in Manual Mode The first option for choosing your settings in manual mode is to rely on your camera's internal light meter. When shooting in any mode other than manual, your camera relies on its light meter to determine the correct exposure for the given composition. When shooting in manual, the light meter still provides an estimation of the correct exposure. (Read more here about correct exposure.) The light meter line graph is visible through your viewfinder when you are shooting. Different camera brands and models will have slightly different displays, but the main idea behind the light meter graph is the same. If the flashing arrow under the line is pointing to zero, it means that the camera's light meter has determined that your composition is correctly exposed. A negative value means that the composition is too dark (according to the light meter) and a positive value means that the image is too bright. This is where you, as the photographer, come into play. You now get to decide how you want to change either the ISO, aperture, and/or shutter speed to get the exposure that you want. You do not have to "agree" with your camera and choose values that will give an exact zero, according to the light meter, but it is a useful guide if you are unsure about which settings to use. Quick Aside about the Exposure Triangle You can find a lot of information and long digressions about the exposure triangle, but the key point is that you can change the exposure value (as recorded by the light meter) for a given picture in one of three ways: you can change the ISO, the aperture, or the shutter speed. (Sound familiar?) Many people picture this as a triangle-shaped graph with all three variables on it, but I have never found that visualization particularly useful. I prefer to think about it situationally. Lets say that your meter says your photograph is too dark by one stop. (Your light meter is pointing to -1.) You can ... Double your ISO (say, from 100 to 200 or 400 to 800), which would increase your exposure by one stop. The trade-off is the possibility of increased noise with a higher ISO value. Open up your aperture (make it wider), say from f/8 to f/5.6 or from f/4 to f/2.8, which would increase your exposure by one stop. The trade-off is a decreased depth of field (amount of the image in focus). Double the time for your shutter speed (say, from 1/250th of a second to 1/125th of a second or from 1" to 2" long), which would increase your exposure by one stop. The trade-off is that a longer shutter speed might not work with a moving subject or a shaky photographer. Some combination of all three. What if you are unsure of where to even start with your settings? That brings us to the other topic I have already mentioned, the "rule" of sunny f/16. Sunny F/16 and Manual Mode Sunny F/16 is such a popular concept in photography, that if you Google it, you can find a plethora of t-shirts and other memorabilia with its diagram. Back in the days of film photographers, you would have to carry around a light meter as an additional piece of equipment, rather than having it handily inside your camera. So this was where the "rule" of sunny f/16 originated. So, here's the rule (or guideline, as it were): if you are shooting on a sunny day, you can set your aperture for f/16 and then set your shutter speed as the reciprocal of your ISO. For an ISO of 100, shutter speed of 1/100th. ISO of 800, shutter speed of 1/800th. Easy. Want to take it beyond sunny days? You can probably guess the rest of the "rules" by the t-shirt above. Somewhat overcast? F/11. Totally overcast? F/8. Bordering-on-dim overcast? F/5.6. Sunset? F/4. And a bonus: super bright snow or sand? F/22. Each of these sets of settings will give you a starting place for your manual photography. But what if you want to shoot outside on a sunny day with a wide open aperture for effect? Rather than do all the math of counting f-stops and converting your aperture changes with how to correspondingly change your shutter speed, may I suggest my favorite method? Guess and check. Switch back into aperture priority mode, dial in your ISO 100 and f/1.8. Hold your shutter down halfway and take note of the suggested shutter speed. Then switch back into manual and dial in those same settings. Now you can tweak your shutter speed as needed, referring to your light meter or histogram as your guide. (Read more about Demystifying the Histogram for help.) Shoot in Manual Mode This week your challenge is to try shooting in manual mode. Take it step-by-step and see how it goes. Find some situations to try out the "rule" of sunny f/16 or one of its counterparts. Try relying on your light meter to get your exposure close and then tweak it to get what you want. You may be surprised at how easy it is to make the jump! Share a link or a photograph in the comments below, or consider joining the BYP 52 Weeks Google+ Community to share your weekly photograph and see what others are capturing. Boost Your Photography: Learn Your DSLR is available from Amazon. Get the most out of your camera with practical advice about the technical and creative aspects of DSLR photography that will have you taking beautiful pictures right away.
I have had a fabulous reader write in and ask for some tips on getting better shots indoors. This is a great question, and it’s a challenge that faces all of us – whether a professional…
Phoenix Area Family Photography
Inside: Need camera metering modes explained? Understand your camera’s metering modes and learn how to choose the best DSLR metering mode for amazing images! This post may contain affiliate l…
I've been reading photographers' discussions on various external flash accessories. These are updated comparisons for 6th edition of my textbook, "Photojournalism: The Professionals' Approach." For these tests, the subject remained at the same distance from the background, and the flash was located nine feet from the subject. Pictures in the left column were taken inside. Those in the right column were taken outside. From top to bottom, the Indoor/Outdoor comparisons are for: Direct Flash Bouncing the flash off a ceiling Fong diffuser Lumiquest Omnidome Through a softbox Off an umbrella Through an umbrella Outdoors or in a large ballroom or gymnasium, all the accessories work less well at softening shadows. Inside, light scatters off many surfaces. Outside, the scattered light rays coming from the accessories have few surfaces to bounce off. Notice, in the outdoor series, that the shadow behind the model is darker in almost each situation. All accessories are subject to the same laws of physics. Ken Kobre - www.lightscoop.com Lightscoop® is a device that bounces the pop-up flash in most dSLR cameras.
Loop lighting is flattering to just about any subject. It can give a portrait subtle depth and interest while still maintain a well lit and bright look.
What is aperture in photography? Aperture is the size of the lens opening that allows light to pass and reach a camera's image sensor.
Skin Color RGB Mastering skin tones in photography is no easy feat, but there are some simple steps you can take to help you on your way. From accurate white balance to editing by numbers, here are some ways I go about maintaining accurate skin tones no matter the
Don't let the terminology trick you. The term "small aperture" refers to the physical size of the lens opening...
Have you ever taken a photo of a wonderful moment and then felt disappointed that it didn't turn out? If so, here is a Photoshop tutorial to show how you can transform an ordinary picture into a dream.
Inside: Need camera metering modes explained? Understand your camera’s metering modes and learn how to choose the best DSLR metering mode for amazing images! This post may contain affiliate l…
Learn the best camera settings for food photography: freezing and blurring motion, controlling depth of field and light with natural and artificial light.
Phoenix Area Family Photography
Looking for photography styling tips? These 11 tips will take your amazing photography to the next level. From lighting to prop placement and more!
Skin Color RGB Mastering skin tones in photography is no easy feat, but there are some simple steps you can take to help you on your way. From accurate white balance to editing by numbers, here are some ways I go about maintaining accurate skin tones no matter the
A abertura do diafragma é um dos elementos que compõe o tripé da fotografia. Descubra o que a abertura altera na sua imagem!
Photography sheat sheets for amateurs, ranging from manual camera settings to your rights as a photographer.
In this short article I am going to help you to read your histogram better and help you to use it more effectively as a part of your shooting.
One of my absolute favorite things to do in Photoshop is to play with lighting effects. Whether that be to make something glow, create a spotlight sort of
If the idea of incorporating flash into your photography work strikes fear in your heart, this is a must read article for you! The ability to use a portable electronic flash can do wonders for your wo
I took a few semesters of photography in college, and we went over darkroom, aperture, lenses and lighting, etc. However, since we got our new camera last year, I have yet to sit down and read the manuel on how to work a DSLR. Its a whole new world I need to master. {Pinterest via Just
Tips about food photography lighting, hacks, props, styling and mindset.
33 Free Tutorials for Photoshop, Lightroom, and ACR. Perfect for photographers who want to learn more about photo editing.
One of the most noticeable differences between portraits taken outside using natural light as opposed to artificial light is the background. Images using artificial light tend to have darker backgrounds. This is crucial in catching the eye of the viewer and allows him or her to focus on the subject. This article is a guide in achieving this look using natural light only. In
Learn how to take pictures of your house for magazines, blogs, Instagram, and more with these five tips for photographing interiors.
Due to the popularity of my post on switching from shooting RAW to JPEG for my images, I thought I best create one where you can see my Fujifilm JPEG settings. These are much like using presets in Lightroom but you are applying them to the image there and then. The below settings are the ones I use everyday and were developed through my time in Singapore, Chiang Mai and Bangkok. At first, in Singapore, I wasn't so good. I kept changing my mind on how a photo should look so I kept switching JPEG profiles. However, by the time of my last stop in Bangkok, I was much more settled. Now, I choose the setting and leave it.I cannot however take the full credit. My Fujifilm JPEG settings were created through researching other Fujifilm shooters; most notably Kevin Mullins and Ritchie Roesch. Whilst Kevin focuses on weddings and Ritchie on emulating classic film looks, I thought I would see how JPEGs fare for travel photography.
Night Time Photography is so much fun when you use these Night Photography Settings. Includes a free cheat sheet for your camera bag.
If light conditions are changing fast and you don't have time to keep on top of shutter speed, aperture and ISO, auto ISO might be the answer
