"Vine Tidy" is in a class by itself among the patterns of the sample book. Not only is it one of a mere handful of stockingnet designs, but it is the sole example of an all-over lace pattern. Rather than an edging or insertion intended as a component in a larger work, it produces a fabric that can be adapted for a wide variety of knitting projects where lace is desired. The ropy vine motifs alternate with trios of zigzagging lines to form a trellis effect. The pattern has a 12-row repeat and is worked on a multiple of 19 stitches for circular knitting, 19 + 12 for flat fabric. You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here. Variations of the pattern can be found in many modern day texts. Knitting Counterpanes: Traditional Coverlet Patterns for Contemporary Knitters by Mary Walker Phillips, for example, includes "Braided Leaf Insert." While designed as a panel, the pattern is essentially the same as Vine Tidy (more about that "tidy" in a moment), the only difference being that the two vines at the center of the insertion, while flanked by trellises on the right and left, are separated from one another by a single eyelet. (photo ©1989 The Taunton Press) Note the scalloped cast-on edge. Worked without a border, the Vine Tidy pattern also has this feature. I have charted the pattern as it would appear in a knitting stitch dictionary, but the instructions in the sample book were written to create a specific household article, the tidy. In some Victorian sources, the tidy is a receptacle of some kind-- a box to set in the bathroom and hold toiletries, a bag to hang from a doorknob and organize mail. Here, however, the tidy is a square or rectangular doily (antimacassar, dresser scarf, placemat, etc.) knit back and forth rather than from the center. Worked across 89 stitches and featuring three repeats of the vine pattern, the tidy includes a stockingnet border, a curious selection given the tendency for the ends to curl up and the selvedges to curl under, as evidenced in the photo. A border of garter or seed stitch would have been a better choice. My sample was knit in fingering weight cotton on 2.25mm needles. With 16 pattern repeats, the finished piece blocked to 11¼" X 17½". In the sample book Vine Tidy was hand-written by our anonymous knitter with no attribution, but I couldn't help but notice that it is identical in every respect (same width, same border, same three vines, everything) to a pattern found in my favorite book in my knitted lace library, Fancy Work Recreations: A Complete Guide to Knitting, Crochet, and Home Adornment published in 1884 (there's that date again!) by Buckeye Publishing Co., Minneapolis, and written by Eva Marie Niles, shown below in the frontispiece. Ms. Niles must have been a lace knitter first and foremost. Although the text covers a wide variety of needlework including crochet, patchwork, embroidery, drawn thread, macramé, darned lace and netting, not to mention crafts such as skeletonizing leaves, splatter pictures, leather work, brass repoussé and others, fully a third of the 433-page work is devoted to knitted designs, mostly lace. An explanatory note at the back of the book cites the Housekeeper, Peterson's Magazine and the New York Tribune as sources for some of the instructions, but adds that "a greater part of the knitting and crochet is original with the author." In this period the technology of reproducing photographs in books and newspapers was advancing, although online sources disagree on the exact date the first of such illustrations appeared. Photographic images in publications may have made their debut a few years before or shortly after Fancy Work Recreations, but whatever the fact of the matter, the process surely must have remained prohibitively expensive for some years, and drawings and etchings continued to be the most common illustrations in needlework books and magazines. The image accompanying Ms. Niles' "Vine Tidy" pattern shows a detail of the design. The swatch is presented with the cast-on edge at the top, in contrast to current practice where stitch pattern photos reflect the conventions of charting, with row 1 at the bottom. Although the drawings are usually notable for their accurate rendering of the smallest detail, note the inexplicable eyelet in each leaf lobe-- there is no yarn over in the pattern at that point. Up next: Untitled Edging
Before published patterns, sample books provided a way for stitch patterns to be collected and shared.
Well yes, it all started with a workshop with Nicki Stewart in preparation for the Fibre Arts New Zealand annual even in Whanganui last week ( and before it’s fully booked, check out the offe…
"Another Insertion" is a chevron motif stockingnet panel with ladder eyelet borders in garter stitch along the sides. The pattern is worked over 13 stitches with an 8-row repeat. You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here. Next time: Narrow Edging
How to make sample stitch book Here’s the method I’ve devised to make the Take it Further Fiber Book and the two volumes of Take a Stitch Tuesday stitch sampler. The Take it Further Fiber Book is my…
Jane Garrett, a skilled lacemaker, spinner, weaver, and knitter, made theses bobbin-lace samples, which are still treasured today.
What we know as Romanian Point Lace (aka Macramé Crochet, Braidwork, etc.) is usually categorized as a form of “Tape Lace”. A few months ago I came across this book, The Technique of Ta…
At the conclusion of my last post, way back at the beginning of the year, I teased that the final pattern in the 1884 knitted lace sample book would be "worth the wait." Little did I know just how long that wait would prove to be. As it turned out, life came between me and my knitting and I am just now getting back on track. Thanks to all who have hung in there. Our grand finale pattern was published in the newspaper under the title "New Fancy Work" and was submitted by M.M. Niles of East Gloucester, Massachusetts. It appears first among the patterns in the sample book, but I have saved it for last because it is in a class by itself. In the accompanying notes the contributor suggests using it to make a tidy (for more on tidies, see 37. Vine Tidy), but my first thought upon seeing the instructions was "counterpane square." Worked from corner to opposite corner, the design features a raised leaf motif against a garter stitch ground in the lower half of the square and rows of eyelets alternating with reverse stockingnet stripes above. The edges of the lower triangle of each square are rimmed with eyelets to use in sewing four squares together to form a block with the leaves at the center. And when multiple blocks are sewn together, the full pattern is revealed: the eyelet rows come together as nested diamonds. A minimum of four blocks (16 squares) are needed to properly show off the arrangement. Since January I have managed to knit only a single block, so in the interest of expediting this post, the image below is actually a digitally created collage. The rate the stitch count increases varies greatly-- the count rapidly rises in the first 15 rows, remains steady as the leaf motif tapers, and then increases again one stitch per row before reaching 38 at the center of the square. By contrast, the upper half of the square narrows one stitch per row throughout. The disparities make for a rather oddly shaped piece, but it is easily blocked into a uniform square. The 74 rows may seem excessive for what amounts to a little swatch, but since many rows are knit with just a handful of stitches, it is not as daunting as that number may suggest. Only rarely do the sample book newspaper clippings include recommendations for materials, but Ms. Niles has several suggestions for her pattern. First and foremost: "In doing fancy work always use the best materials." She advises using very fine steel double pointed needles, No. 16 in the sizing system of her day, the equivalent of 1.25mm (US 0000) today. For thread she recommends either Morse & Kaley's four-ply No. 10 knitting cotton ("I can recommend this cotton highly. It is manufactured at Milford, N.H.") or Barbaric Drab Linen Thread No. 30. She continues Sixteen of these pieces, or four squares ... makes a very pretty tidy, when bordered with some pretty edge. Line the tidy with some bright color. For a coverlet, the fingering weight cotton and 2.25mm needles I used for my sample would be ideal. The individual squares blocked to 3½" along each side. If used for a project today, some refinement of the pattern may be in order. Although paired decreases are used to taper the leaf, only K2tog is used to shape the upper half of the square where a left-leaning decrease might be preferred along one side. (And while we're at it, I think I would set the decreases in from the edge, slipping the edge stitch, for a smoother selvedge and easier sewing of the blocks together.) The tip of the leaf would also benefit from a change. As written, the leaf narrows by one stitch per side every other row until it is down to three. From there only one stitch is worked off on each of the next two right side rows. The resulting leaf tip lacks definition. The obvious substitution would be a single double decrease. This pattern is so large it would be unintelligible without a powerful magnifying glass if the chart, verbal instructions, notes and photos were laid out on a single page as I have done in the past. So I have divided it up in two parts. You can download the chart here and everything else here. Next week: But wait! There's more!
Several readers have mentioned incorporating the Victorian knitted lace patterns from this blog in their own projects-- selecting one of the sample book's edgings to border a shawl, for example. I think it might be fun to have a venue for sharing photos of these creations. With that in mind, I have set up an 1884 Knitted Lace Sample Book group on flickr. All are invited to join and post photos. Since several patterns share names or were presented as "Untitled Edging," tag your photos with both the name of the pattern and the corresponding number from its blog post to facilitate visitors searching the group photo pool. Please limit contributions to photos of items that use the knitted lace designs from the sample book. I can't wait to see your needlework! * * * * * * * A Regretful Acknowledgment The holidays, general busyness and the quirky way our next anonymous knitter has made notes to herself will delay the launch of patterns from the second Victorian knitting notebook until the new year.
Originally posted April 14, 2014 Edited January 2016 to add: I am amazed at all of the interest that this post has received since I first posted it! Thank you each of you who have visited my blog. I would like to let you know that I have recently posted new lace books that you might be interested to see. And I would so very much love to hear from you! Feel free to leave a comment or email me. My email is located in the About Me box on the side bar where you can click to see my complete profile. And be looking for me to announce my new You Tube videos that I am working to share with you. I will post a notice on my sidebar when it's up and running! All the best to you in your crafting fun! Hello to you all! I hope this finds each of you doing well, and staying warm again!! Can you believe the weather this year?? We've been trying to slowly get the yard looking nice...no easy task!! But the weather has been lovely...until NOW!! ARGH!! Anyway, on to the tutorial for the lace book. This tutorial is only going to be with pictures, because I have no clue how to make a You Tube video!! Anyone want to let me in on the secret, then I might be able to utilize that avenue! OK...the Lace Book that I made which I showed you completed on my previous post here, was a lot of fun for me to make. It was my first try at a lace book, and I was quite pleased with the result! I began by going to Pinterest and starting a pinboard called Fabric and Lace Collage which you can look at here. I pinned any picture that was related to making books, journals, collages, tags, etc. which utilized laces, fabrics, trims, etc. I wanted a place where I could go to for inspiration, ideas, and how to's. The number of people who make these lovely books and journals and wall hangings astounds me with their ideas, tutorials, and gorgeous images. I wish I could talk to each person and thank them for their time and their willingness to share their ideas!! If you are one of them, then THANK YOU!! To start, I found a You Tube video by Scrappin Happyxo which you can view here. Jeannette gave a list of other tutorials (located in her description box). Her use of cloth napkins and doilies for pages made the base for her book. She clearly explains how she makes her books and the ideas were terrific. I will show you pictures of my own lace book now, and how I continued on her ideas. Please note that I did not copy her ideas exactly, but I did use her basis for pages ideas. I did not use glue to attach any laces to my pages, but I did use it for the flowers on the front (above). Again, great tutorials out there on flower making! Please note: you do NOT need to use fabric napkins for your book, you could use any type of fabric. For this book I used some old thin lovely lace edged napkins as the pages. Between the folds of the napkin I sandwiched two pieces of felt (see below) cut to just smaller than the lace edges, sewing with a machine around the edges to keep shut. I had to pin the felt and napkin "pages" together to keep the felt in place while I placed the rest of my laces etc. on the pages. Below is an example of the beginning of a lace book that I am working on now, as I did not think at the time to take pictures as I started the first book! Using napkins with matching designs made this project easy. First, I folded each napkin into a square so that the prettiest corner was located in the upper right hand corner, and I could open it from right to left like a page in a book. Once the "page" was open, I lowered the inside part of the folded napkin down, then cut pieces of felt for each side, left and right. The felt is pink in the examples below. Fold the lower portion back up, to cover the felt, and align. Below is the napkin with the two pieces of felt inside, and folded together. I am peeling away the decorated upper right portion of the front so that the felt is exposed. Note: If you want the felt to be seen through your design, leave it in place. If you do NOT want the felt to be seen behind your design, now is the time to trim the felt along the design edge allowing the design to be without felt behind it. For this example, I would trim the felt along the folded portion to remove it from the design area. But I decided to leave the pink felt behind the flower motif to show through. Here is the example of the napkin with the felt pieces inside, ready to be sewn around the outside edges. In the picture above I would sew around the bottom left, across the top, then down the right side, making sure the felt stays where it belongs by pinning it in place before sewing. I found it fine to leave my pins in the felt while I worked on the rest of the book, but you can tack it down with thread if you prefer. All napkin pages are now stitched together and the felt inside still pinned. When the napkins are all stitched with the felt inside each "page", I then cut a piece of muslin in a length long enough to be folded like an accordion (folded back and forth, back and forth), with enough left over to go over the front and back of the book. This is a way to attach each napkin page to the next napkin, making the actual book form. This example was a piece of bleached muslin cut across the folded original piece of yardage. The width of the material from the bolt was kept in tact, and a piece approximately 5 inches was used. I eyeballed the cut, and made sure the piece was shorter than both upper and lower edges of the actual napkin pages so that when finished, it would not show (see above). I had 6 napkins to work with, therefore the center of my book was three pages in. I wanted the folds that would be attached to the inside of the napkin pages to be just large enough that I could easily stitch them to the insides of the pages, attaching them to both sides of the pages. One on the left page, one on the right page. These were used between two napkins, making them into the book form. After trying a number of times to calculate the actual size, I found it easier to eyeball it, thinking ahead about how thick I wanted the pages to be, allowing for things I would attach later. I left enough looseness between for what I thought I would need. approximate size of each accordion fold pinned on the left side of a napkin Starting at the middle of the book, I pinned the center accordian fold to the left side of a napkin (above), then another accordian fold to the right side (below). Matching the width of the previous fold, then using a ruler or straight edge to help make the entire length straight. finger press along the edge, then pin in place on the right side, making two napkins attached to each other with the two folded pieces. I continued pinning folds to the napkins, making the backing of the book from the accordion folds. When the napkins were all attached (pinned), I made any changes that I thought were necessary for the thickness of the book. The extra material left over on the front and back of the book from the accordion folds I pinned in place. It makes a nice "work cover" for while I am handling it so much and saves the extra material to the outside of the book in case I want to use it there. I found out that once it is cut...there is no going back! Then I got out my needle and thread and sewed the whole book together with stitches through the folds into the napkin 'page' and felt. The felt gave me a place to sew into similar to a quilt batting center. I did not want the stitches to show on the other side of the page where I was sewing, so the felt made an easy place to sew to. I used a double row of stitches on each fold, following the exterior of the folds, and leaving a slight bit of material between each fold for the width of each page. It made a very nice way to attach the napkin pages to each other. A final backing or binding of the book will come later. Now. Once the basic book was finished, the fun part of decorating and embellishing comes. PART 2 Can be found HERE This post is long enough! So, get out your old lovelies and try your hand at making a lace book. I am so glad I decided to try one. Let me know if you have any questions! Thank you so much for joining me! I hope you each have a lovely spring (as soon as old man winter gets through with his last huff!!). Blessings, Doni
At the conclusion of my last post, way back at the beginning of the year, I teased that the final pattern in the 1884 knitted lace sample book would be "worth the wait." Little did I know just how long that wait would prove to be. As it turned out, life came between me and my knitting and I am just now getting back on track. Thanks to all who have hung in there. Our grand finale pattern was published in the newspaper under the title "New Fancy Work" and was submitted by M.M. Niles of East Gloucester, Massachusetts. It appears first among the patterns in the sample book, but I have saved it for last because it is in a class by itself. In the accompanying notes the contributor suggests using it to make a tidy (for more on tidies, see 37. Vine Tidy), but my first thought upon seeing the instructions was "counterpane square." Worked from corner to opposite corner, the design features a raised leaf motif against a garter stitch ground in the lower half of the square and rows of eyelets alternating with reverse stockingnet stripes above. The edges of the lower triangle of each square are rimmed with eyelets to use in sewing four squares together to form a block with the leaves at the center. And when multiple blocks are sewn together, the full pattern is revealed: the eyelet rows come together as nested diamonds. A minimum of four blocks (16 squares) are needed to properly show off the arrangement. Since January I have managed to knit only a single block, so in the interest of expediting this post, the image below is actually a digitally created collage. The rate the stitch count increases varies greatly-- the count rapidly rises in the first 15 rows, remains steady as the leaf motif tapers, and then increases again one stitch per row before reaching 38 at the center of the square. By contrast, the upper half of the square narrows one stitch per row throughout. The disparities make for a rather oddly shaped piece, but it is easily blocked into a uniform square. The 74 rows may seem excessive for what amounts to a little swatch, but since many rows are knit with just a handful of stitches, it is not as daunting as that number may suggest. Only rarely do the sample book newspaper clippings include recommendations for materials, but Ms. Niles has several suggestions for her pattern. First and foremost: "In doing fancy work always use the best materials." She advises using very fine steel double pointed needles, No. 16 in the sizing system of her day, the equivalent of 1.25mm (US 0000) today. For thread she recommends either Morse & Kaley's four-ply No. 10 knitting cotton ("I can recommend this cotton highly. It is manufactured at Milford, N.H.") or Barbaric Drab Linen Thread No. 30. She continues Sixteen of these pieces, or four squares ... makes a very pretty tidy, when bordered with some pretty edge. Line the tidy with some bright color. For a coverlet, the fingering weight cotton and 2.25mm needles I used for my sample would be ideal. The individual squares blocked to 3½" along each side. If used for a project today, some refinement of the pattern may be in order. Although paired decreases are used to taper the leaf, only K2tog is used to shape the upper half of the square where a left-leaning decrease might be preferred along one side. (And while we're at it, I think I would set the decreases in from the edge, slipping the edge stitch, for a smoother selvedge and easier sewing of the blocks together.) The tip of the leaf would also benefit from a change. As written, the leaf narrows by one stitch per side every other row until it is down to three. From there only one stitch is worked off on each of the next two right side rows. The resulting leaf tip lacks definition. The obvious substitution would be a single double decrease. This pattern is so large it would be unintelligible without a powerful magnifying glass if the chart, verbal instructions, notes and photos were laid out on a single page as I have done in the past. So I have divided it up in two parts. You can download the chart here and everything else here. Next week: But wait! There's more!
I am downright baffled by the name of this pattern. Polka Dot Lace, yes. Checkerboard Lace, sure. Even Windowpane Plaid. But Star? I just don't see it. Unsuitable nomenclature aside, this stockingnet lace design produces a triangular fabric suitable for shawls. (I can also see it used as a kerchief or as an insertion for a neckline, creating a spot of openwork over the upper breastbone.) The simple pattern is easy to memorize and might be a good first project for the lace novice. After casting on three stitches and working two rows to get started, the 4-row repeat begins. Every right side row starts with a yarn over that is not worked off with a corresponding decrease and every other RS row ends similarly, resulting in the growth and shaping of the piece. The "star stitch" decrease, symbolized on the chart by an asterisk, reduces every three stitches to two and does not produce a bias fabric like o, k2tog. My doll-size sample was knit with fingering weight wool on 3.75mm needles. I worked 60 rows and the piece blocked to 11¾" wide, 6" long. You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here. Bonus Pattern for Crocheters On the page opposite "Star Stitch for a Shawl" is "Star Stitch. Croched [sic]." It is the lone crochet pattern in the notebook. I am not much of a crocheter and I have not proofed the pattern, so I present it here verbatim and without illustration. (If any crocheters out there try it out, we would love to see your results. You can share photos of your work on the flickr 1884 Knitted Lace Sample Book group page.) A chain of 20 stitches. Without putting the thread over first put the needle into the 2nd chain, thread over, and draw through leaving the two loops on the needle. Do the same in the next 3 chains successively drawing the wool up longer. Having 5 loops on the needle put wool over and draw through all, make 1 chain to hold it. * Put needle into stitch where 5 loops are, draw thread through, put needle into back part of last loop of the star before. Draw through, put needle into the next two chain, just the same, drawing them up longer and thread over, draw through all 5 loops, and make one chain.* Repeat between stars. Next time: Knitted Ruching
In the 18th century, the great textile mills of Norwich produced beautiful sample books that set out their range of wares. A post by historian Erik Kwakkel gathers together some…
At the conclusion of my last post, way back at the beginning of the year, I teased that the final pattern in the 1884 knitted lace sample book would be "worth the wait." Little did I know just how long that wait would prove to be. As it turned out, life came between me and my knitting and I am just now getting back on track. Thanks to all who have hung in there. Our grand finale pattern was published in the newspaper under the title "New Fancy Work" and was submitted by M.M. Niles of East Gloucester, Massachusetts. It appears first among the patterns in the sample book, but I have saved it for last because it is in a class by itself. In the accompanying notes the contributor suggests using it to make a tidy (for more on tidies, see 37. Vine Tidy), but my first thought upon seeing the instructions was "counterpane square." Worked from corner to opposite corner, the design features a raised leaf motif against a garter stitch ground in the lower half of the square and rows of eyelets alternating with reverse stockingnet stripes above. The edges of the lower triangle of each square are rimmed with eyelets to use in sewing four squares together to form a block with the leaves at the center. And when multiple blocks are sewn together, the full pattern is revealed: the eyelet rows come together as nested diamonds. A minimum of four blocks (16 squares) are needed to properly show off the arrangement. Since January I have managed to knit only a single block, so in the interest of expediting this post, the image below is actually a digitally created collage. The rate the stitch count increases varies greatly-- the count rapidly rises in the first 15 rows, remains steady as the leaf motif tapers, and then increases again one stitch per row before reaching 38 at the center of the square. By contrast, the upper half of the square narrows one stitch per row throughout. The disparities make for a rather oddly shaped piece, but it is easily blocked into a uniform square. The 74 rows may seem excessive for what amounts to a little swatch, but since many rows are knit with just a handful of stitches, it is not as daunting as that number may suggest. Only rarely do the sample book newspaper clippings include recommendations for materials, but Ms. Niles has several suggestions for her pattern. First and foremost: "In doing fancy work always use the best materials." She advises using very fine steel double pointed needles, No. 16 in the sizing system of her day, the equivalent of 1.25mm (US 0000) today. For thread she recommends either Morse & Kaley's four-ply No. 10 knitting cotton ("I can recommend this cotton highly. It is manufactured at Milford, N.H.") or Barbaric Drab Linen Thread No. 30. She continues Sixteen of these pieces, or four squares ... makes a very pretty tidy, when bordered with some pretty edge. Line the tidy with some bright color. For a coverlet, the fingering weight cotton and 2.25mm needles I used for my sample would be ideal. The individual squares blocked to 3½" along each side. If used for a project today, some refinement of the pattern may be in order. Although paired decreases are used to taper the leaf, only K2tog is used to shape the upper half of the square where a left-leaning decrease might be preferred along one side. (And while we're at it, I think I would set the decreases in from the edge, slipping the edge stitch, for a smoother selvedge and easier sewing of the blocks together.) The tip of the leaf would also benefit from a change. As written, the leaf narrows by one stitch per side every other row until it is down to three. From there only one stitch is worked off on each of the next two right side rows. The resulting leaf tip lacks definition. The obvious substitution would be a single double decrease. This pattern is so large it would be unintelligible without a powerful magnifying glass if the chart, verbal instructions, notes and photos were laid out on a single page as I have done in the past. So I have divided it up in two parts. You can download the chart here and everything else here. Next week: But wait! There's more!
Eine Auswahl von 5 handgeperlenen Spitzenapplien/Stücken. siehe Lineal im Bild, um die Maße zu messen. geeignet für Bastel-, Puppenherstellungs-, Scrap-Buchung, Patchwork- und Nähprojekte. Diese Stoffe stammen aus einem persönlichen Archiv der Modedesigner und sind alle ein Einzelstück. einige schöne hochwertige zarte Schnürsenkel. einige der Schnürsenkel wurden in ein Stoffmusterbuch geklebt und können auf der Rückseite Spuren von Kleber aufweisen. Ich vermute das Alter der Artikel vor 2000, sie könnten älter oder neuer sein. 067
the new sample book of our artistic perforated parchment stamping patterns is a catalog of designs for embroidery published by J. F. Ingalls 29 Munroe street...
My long awaited wallpaper sample books have arrived. They are really beautiful and so well made. Although my collection...
I bought this beautiful piece of old patchwork at the Manchester Vintage Textile Fair last weekend. It is made up of tiny black velvet triangles interspersed with coloured silks and prints. These are special days out for me and textile friend Jayne Emma Bone. We share a passion for "old rags" and lunch out. This time we had lunch at the Whitworth Art Gallery, easily found nearby with the help of the SatNav. The next big fair is organised by the Textile Society and is on March 7th 2010 (www.textilesociety.org.uk).
Enjoy this illustrated rare lace book covering how to make Battenberg Point and Lace published over a 120 years ago, written by Nellie Clark Brown and produced by the Priscilla Publishing Company. This rare and classic book covers the following aspects of Battenberg Point and lace making Selection of Materials Braid and Thread Rings Basting and Overcasting Turning Corners Scallops and Loops. Overcasting Cutting the Braid Basting the Rings to the Pattern Fastening the Thread Preparing a Sampler Sorrento Bars. Plain Buttonhole Bar Buttonholed Bars with Pinned Picots Bar with Buttonhole Picot Bar with Two Rows of Dots Raleigh Bars Bar with Picot Made in Bullion Stitch Branched Bars, or Buttonholed Bars Bar with Lace Picot. Point d’Anvers Bars Wheels or Spiders Spinning Wheel Rosettes Insertions Plain Russian Stitch Twisted Russian Stitch Column Stitch Insertion of Single Buttonhole Stitch Insertion of Buttonhole Stitch Insertion with Cones Insertion with Reversed Cones Beaded Insertion or D' Alencon Insertion with Small Wheels. Bars of Point d'Angleterre Insertion with Branches Leaf Insertion Cluster Insertion Network Stitches Single Net Stitch Double Net Stitch Three Stitch Buttonholed Net Stitch Point de Vernise Stitches Petit Point de Venise Point dtEspagne - Spanish Point Stitches Open Spanish Point Spanish Point Spanish Point Spanish Point Insertion Shell Insertion Spanish Net Stitches Double Spanish Net Triple Spanish Net Grouped Spanish Net Venetian or Point de Sorrento Stitch Double Venetian or Cobweb Stitch Darned Figures on Venetian Background Spider or Wheel Stitch Point de Bruxelles (Brussds Point). Point de Bruxelles Point de Bruxelles, "Pea" Stitch Greek. Net Stitch Point Turque - Turkish Point Turkish Point Point de Filet. Net Groundwork. Stitch Point de Filet Bruges Stitch Point cl' Angleterre Point d' Angleterre Rosette Stitch Hour-glasses Net with Rosette Stitch Greek Crosses Point de Reprise Combination and Miscellaneous Stitches Combination Stitches Point de Valenciennes Combination of Brussels Net Fans Woven Rays Diamond Stitch Point de Sorrento Bullion Insertion Knotted Russian Stitch Combination Stitches Connected Needle-made Picots Isolated Needle-made Picots Net or Applique Lace How to Wash Lace This book contains over 43 large pages of classic lace work and is delivered instantly in PDF format. For you to enjoy!
Une collection d'albums d'échantillons, merveilleux mélanges de papier et de tissu. Trésors convoités à Drouot par toutes les grandes maisons de mode et les archivistes privés du textile. Galons d'uniformes prussiens, début XIXe siècle. Deutsches Historisches...
SAMPLE JUMPSUIT. Jumpsuit mit Spitzenoberteil und Puffärmeln und hochtailliertem kaiserlichen Krepp-Jumpsuit. Sample so gut wie neu. – Jumpsuit with lace upper part and puffed sleeves and high waisted imperial crepe jumpsuit. Sample as good as new.
"Knitted Lace (Wide)" is aptly named. It is over twice as wide as its nearest challenger among the edgings we have seen to date. I have knit all of the samples with the same fingering weight cotton on 2.25mm needles. Each of the other edgings has fallen into one of three groups: just under 1", 1¼"-1½" and 2"-2½". By comparison, Knitted Lace (Wide) comes in at a whopping 5¾"! The design has two rows of faggoting alternating with two rows of single eyelets along the upper edge, and garter stitch triangles separated by multiple diagonal rows of eyelets running down into the saw-tooth lower edge. The stitch count steadily rises from 31 to 47 before the added stitches are bound off in the final row of the 34-row repeat. The bind-off is achieved by knitting two stitches together, replacing the stitch on the left needle and repeating the process until only the original 31 stitches remain. You can download the full-size chart, verbal instructions and notes here. I absolutely love the selvage created in this pattern. I have always slipped the first stitch of every row, thinking that the best option for a neat selvage. But here you knit to the last stitch of each row and bring the yarn forward before slipping it. The result resembles a line of knit stitches running up the side of the piece, not unlike a bound-off edge. So exquisitely even, definitely a technique after this perfectionist's heart! I can see that this method will loom large in my future for any project not knit in the round. Like Making Knitted Edging and Another Pretty Pattern before, this design was submitted by S.G.H. of Monmouth IL for publication in the newspaper. Next week: Parisian Lace
Please Note: Does not contain illustrations of knitted patterns! Only punch cards PDF! File Type: PDF Format - 1 ZIP instant download file. Ebook only, not paper book. 22 lace (lace, fine lace, thread lace patterns) punch cards for knitting machine Brother in PDF. 24 stitches Punch Card Patterns. The width of the printed sample must be 142 mm for the punchcard to be read correctly by the machine. For all holes on the punch card, only the centres are marked. It's not as visual, but more convenient to work with. Check the printer settings. Make sure that the printer is set to 100%, full scale, or no scale. Do not select "shrink to fit" or "fit to page." The pattern will print on multiple pages, which is fine. Patterns need to be printed Portrait style. WinRar download: https://www.win-rar.com/download.html?&L=0 or https://www.7-zip.org/ To extract right-click on the selected one or more files, click the "Extract To" button at the top of the WinRAR or WinZip window. NOTE: You must to download all the files to unzip them!
A textile inspired by the light and textures found in Aldeburgh in Suffolk. A mix of hand and machine stitching, blogged about here su-livingontheedge.blogspot.co.uk/2012/09/a-textile-for-a...
These terrific images appear in a book of textile samples (swatches) produced by the Robert Maison, based in Paris, France. A label on the inside of front cover notes: “Maison Robert, Victor Ducroquet, gendre et successeur, no. 78312.” The mounted illustrations are chiefly watercolor drawings of textile designs, numbered 4495 to 4735, but without … Continue reading "A Glorious Book of French Textile Samples (1863)"
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~ My Personal Use License is included with this art! You can use it for personal or nonprofit projects ONLY. For all Business, Professional and For Profit Use you MUST purchase the appropriate license at www.mandyartmarket.com. Learn more about licensing my art here: http://www.mandyartmarket.com/terms Download a free test sample of this set at http://www.mandyartmarket.com/free-lace-digital-frames ~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~ This pretty collection of Green digital lace borders is perfect for decorating cards, digital scrapbooking, wall hangings and lots more! The digital format of these images allows for them to be printed on anything from paper to fabric, or used digitally with no printing at all. Color coordinates perfectly with other art in my Green color theme. - Intricate lace patterns are perfect for digital design - Great for designing cards, wedding invites and wall art - Crisp, clear PNG clipart and vectors included - Includes 16 single sided borders and 16 double sided borders - Spectrum of green shades - Lots of coordinating art available in my Green color theme - More shapes and colors available in the Mixed Lace series! All Green digital lace borders included in this set have transparent backgrounds, making them easy to pop in anywhere you need them. This set of Green digital lace borders can be used digitally or in print. Incredibly useful for creating greeting cards, party invitations and decorations, crafts, wall art, scrap booking, greeting cards, stickers, t-shirts, wall art, print-on-demand fabric, web design and anything else you can think of. Time to get creative! Each set of Green digital lace borders is about 12 inches when printed at 300 dpi (print quality). ~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~ **Download is 3 zip files which include:** - 32 PNG clip art files (about 12 inches each @ 300 dpi) - 1 AI vector art files (for Adobe Illustrator CS5 and above) - 1 EPS vector art files (for other vector software) Please note: backgrounds and text on the cover images is for display only. They are not included in the download files. ~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~ **Like this art? More colors and styles are available in my Mixed Lace series!** See them here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/AmandaIlkov/search?search_query=style1005 **Like this color?** See all of my coordinating Green colored art here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/AmandaIlkov/search?search_query=colorGreen ~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~ This art is available in even more colors on my website. Visit www.mandyartmarket.com/series/mixed-lace for more. Even more coordinating art may be available in this color theme on my website. Visit www.mandyartmarket.com/color-theme/green for more art. Like my work? Find freebies, coupons, tutorials and more from Amanda Ilkov on my blog: www.mandyartmarket.com/blog Sign up for my newsletter, and get freebies, special offers and news about my digital art. No spam, I promise! Sign up here: www.mandyartmarket.com/signup/ ~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~ style1005 Keywords: lace borders vector, lace borders vector, lace borders vectors, lace borders clip art, lace borders clipart, lace borders graphic, lace borders graphics, lace borders illustration, lace borders design element, lace borders digital image, lace borders digital art, lace borders digital image, lace borders hand drawn, lace borders royalty free, lace borders modern, lace borders simple, lace borders pretty images, lace borders scrapbook, lace borders scraps, Green lace borders vector, Green lace borders vector, Green lace borders vectors, Green lace borders clip art, Green lace borders clipart, Green lace borders graphic, Green lace borders graphics, Green lace borders illustration, Green lace borders design element, Green lace borders digital image, Green lace borders digital art, Green lace borders digital image, Green lace borders hand drawn, Green lace borders royalty free, Green lace borders modern, Green lace borders simple, Green lace borders pretty images, Green lace borders scrapbook, Green lace borders scraps, digital lace vector, digital lace vector, digital lace vectors, digital lace clip art, digital lace clipart, digital lace graphic, digital lace graphics, digital lace illustration, digital lace design element, digital lace digital image, digital lace digital art, digital lace digital image, digital lace hand drawn, digital lace royalty free, digital lace modern, digital lace simple, digital lace pretty images, digital lace scrapbook, digital lace scraps, digital scrapbook borders vector, digital scrapbook borders vector, digital scrapbook borders vectors, digital scrapbook borders clip art, digital scrapbook borders clipart, digital scrapbook borders graphic, digital scrapbook borders graphics, digital scrapbook borders illustration, digital scrapbook borders design element, digital scrapbook borders digital image, digital scrapbook borders digital art, digital scrapbook borders digital image, digital scrapbook borders hand drawn, digital scrapbook borders royalty free, digital scrapbook borders modern, digital scrapbook borders simple, digital scrapbook borders pretty images, digital scrapbook borders scrapbook, digital scrapbook borders scraps,
How to make sample stitch book Here’s the method I’ve devised to make the Take it Further Fiber Book and the two volumes of Take a Stitch Tuesday stitch sampler. The Take it Further Fiber Book is my…
PDF ebook - Instant Digital Download 103 Teneriffe Lace Work Designs and Instructions On Stitches. If you have any interest in Teneriffe Lace Designs, then this is a great book to have in your collection. The original edition of this Rare Book was printed in 1920 By TH. de DILLMONT. 33 pages Teneriffe lace is a kind of work long known in Southern and Central America under the name of Brazilian or Bolivian lace. It is an imitation of a kind of needlework practised in Spain in the XVIth and XVIIth centuries and known as "Sols" (Sun lace). Originally "Sol lace" was made on a linen ground and ranked as "openwork on linen". Little by little, however, a change took place in the method of working it and what we now in Europe call "Teneriffe" lace is no longer made on a linen foundation but is properly speaking a lace. ****====================================================**** My Personal 100% Guarantee To You If you Buy this Book and after reading it, You feel that You did not get Your Money's worth from it, Message me and I will cancel your purchase and Refund Your Money. And You Can Keep The Book as My Personal Gift To You. ****====================================================**** This scarce antiquarian book is included in our special Rare Books Recycled Series. In the interest of creating a more extensive selection of rare historical books, we have chosen to Digitize this title even though it may possibly have occasional imperfections such as missing and blurred pages, missing text, poor pictures, markings, dark backgrounds and other Digitizing issues beyond our control. Because this work is culturally important, we have made it available as a part of our commitment to protecting, preserving and promoting the world's rare works of literature that would not normally be available. ====================================== This Book is intended for education and informational purposes only. Our modification and restoration process of this book, has resulted in our creating a new work (restored or annotated or improved work), that gives us a clear and novated copyright to this modified version. ====================================== Shipping is FREE via Instant Digital Delivery: This is a digital item. It is an electronic document (e-Book) in a PDF Format and is viewable on any computer with Adobe Reader, which can be downloaded for Free from Adobe.
Il y a des jours où, lorsqu'on déniche un petit trésor pour quelques euros, on se dit qu'on s'est levé du bon pied... Sometimes, when I find treasures for a couple of euros, I think that it's a lucky day... Joli cahier plein d'exercices de crochet...
