This stunning Lace Fabric design piece has soft hand feel, It's perfect for weddings, bridal parties, and any events. Shop our large inventory of bridal fabrics. ☆PRODUCT DESCRIPTION : This gorgeous fabric is made on a sheer base with a beautiful flower embroidery throughout. The fabric width is approximately 29" (74cm) Wide. Color: off-white as in picture Material: Rayon, Polyester ☆ PURCHASING INFORMATION: This fabric is sold by the yard and each Qty you enter will represent 1 yard of fabric. If you purchase additional yards... you'll receive one continues piece of fabric. ☆WHOLESALE INQUIRIES: Please message us for wholesale inquiries. ☆ SHIPPING INFORMATION: 1. By China Post, (transport time is about 15-20 working days), the specific time is based on the actual transportation time. The first yard is $7.99 for shipping + $3.5 additional per yard. (Example. 5 yards = $21.99) 2. By international express delivery, (transport time is about 3-6 working days), the specific time is based on the actual transportation time. You can choose express delivery in the shopping list, Or buy the link below. Https://www.etsy.com/listing/649476075/express-shipping?ref=shop_home_active_1 All items ship from ZHE JIANG-CN, Please allow a turnaround time of 1-3 business days prior to shipment of product. Any questions please message me, Thank you. Have a nice shopping !
Learn how to embroider free-standing lace (or FSL) in this beginner machine embroidery tutorial. Learn about stabilizers, designs, and more.
Embrace a wonderful evening in this wondrous formal gown by Terani Couture 1911E9095. Appeals in a sleeveless, asymmetric neckline with fitted bodice designed with leaf embroidery. The back has a zipper closure while the full length skirt forms a mermaid silhouette with a sweep train finish. Strut your stuff in this beautiful long gown by Terani Couture. Model is wearing Champagne color. Find more prom dresses! Style: terani_1911E9095 Details: 100% Polyester, Sleeveless, Sheer fabric, Embroidery, Fitted bodice, Mermaid skirt, Back zipper, Sweep train Length: Long Neckline: Asymmetric Waistline: Natural Silhouette: Mermaid Please refer to our returns and exchanges policy page (click here) for more details..
Lace Embroidered Two-Piece Set: Chic Coat and High Waist Dress Indulge in a captivating collection of women's dresses that exude elegance, sophistication, and timeless style. Our curated selection features an array of silhouettes, fabrics, and designs to flatter every figure and occasion. Whether you seek a graceful maxi dress for a special event or a chic mini dress for a casual outing, our diverse range has something to suit every fashionista's desire. Embrace Versatility with Our Exquisite Dresses: Maxi Dresses: Our flowing maxi dresses epitomize effortless elegance, perfect for formal gatherings, beach days, or simply lounging in style. Midi Dresses: Strike the perfect balance between sophistication and comfort with our versatile midi dresses, ideal for work, weekend brunches, or casual evening strolls. Mini Dresses: Exude confidence and charm with our flirty mini dresses, perfect for parties, date nights, or showcasing your playful side. Explore a Symphony of Fabrics and Designs: Floral Dresses: Embrace femininity with our vibrant floral dresses, adorned with delicate patterns that add a touch of whimsy to your wardrobe. Solid Color Dresses: Make a statement with our sleek solid color dresses, available in a spectrum of hues to suit your unique style. Printed Dresses: Step into the spotlight with our eye-catching printed dresses, featuring bold patterns and unique designs that turn heads. Unleash Your Inner Fashionista: Cocktail Dresses: Elevate your evening attire with our glamorous cocktail dresses, perfect for special occasions and unforgettable moments. Summer Dresses: Stay cool and stylish with our breezy summer dresses, crafted from lightweight fabrics that flatter your figure in the warm weather. Casual Dresses: Embrace effortless style with our comfortable casual dresses, ideal for everyday wear and laid-back outings. Our Commitment to Quality and Style: We are dedicated to providing women with high-quality dresses that not only flatter their figures but also reflect their unique personalities. Our commitment to excellence ensures that every dress you purchase is crafted with the finest materials and attention to detail, ensuring you look and feel your best. Shop with Confidence and Discover Your Perfect Dress: Browse our extensive collection of women's dresses and discover the perfect piece to complement your wardrobe. With our diverse range of styles, fabrics, and designs, you're sure to find the dress that speaks to your unique fashion sense and empowers you to express your true style.
Discover exquisite Chikankari embroidery designs! Explore timeless elegance with intricate designs. Perfect for adding grace to any garment or decor.
Many fiber artists have captured dry, lacy leaves in quilts. They lend themselves so well to lustrous threads and machine embroidery. But, as anyone who has tried to create thread-only designs can tell you, patience and a good water-soluble stabilizer are absolute musts.
Free standing lace is such a neat thing to make with your embroidery machine, but you want to follow these 8 essential tips to do it right the first time.
Material Composition : Natural Fiber Release Date : 2024 Closure Type : Lace Fabric Type : Polyester Age : Middle Age Neckline : Slash Neck Waistline : Natural Sleeve Style : Regular Dresses Length : Ankle-Length Sleeve Length(cm) : Sleeveless Pattern Type : Floral Silhouette : Pleated Style : Bohemian Material : Polyester Gender : Women Elasticity : Slight Strech Fit Type : Loose Product Imformation Material information: SIZE XS S M L XL XXL XXXL 4XL 5XL bust(cm) 84 88 92 98 top length(cm) 38 39 40 41.5 waist(cm) 64 68 72 78 hip(cm) 92 96 100 106 pant length(cm) 99 100 101 102.5 * Note: 1 inch=2.54 cm Size mearsured by ourselves ,so sometimes it has 1-3cm mistakes. Please check the size carefully before you buy ;if you are not sure about size,please contact us first .Thanks!
Size： Width：53inch(135cm) Quantity: One Yard:35"*53"(91cm x 135cm) Color： As the pic Material： Polyester Note： This listing is for One yard.If you order more than one quantity，you will receive your fabric in a continuous piece. There might be a slight difference in the color according PC and Mobile devices!! Need more ideas: https://www.etsy.com/shop/YinoSupplies If you have any question please feel free to convo me
SPECIFICATIONSBrand Name: jancemberStyle: ModernNeckline: O-NeckSleeve Length(cm): short（4-16inch）Train: Cathedral/ Royal TrainOrigin: Mainland ChinaCN: JiangsuDresses Length: Floor-LengthBack Design: Lace UpActual Images: YesWedding Dress Fabric: OrganzaFor Pregnant Women: NoDecoration: AppliquesDecoration: BeadingDec
FABRIC DETAILS: Our Luxurious Broderie anglaise – French for ‘English embroidery’ – is characterised by round or oval patterned cut-outs in a fabric, giving a delicate, lacy effect (although not as delicate as lace itself). The shapes these holes create often takes inspiration from nature, such as flowers and leaves, with open areas of fabric of varying sizes. Perfect for dresses, skirts, tops and children items. DETAILS OF THIS FABRIC: The dimensions of this fabric are 130cm Approx wide and its composition is 100% Cotton, Approx 100 GSM. SAMPLE SIZE: Sample Swatches are free of charge, we are only charging £0.99p to cover our P&P cost, the Sample size is approx 5cm x 5cm to check the quality/design and colour of the fabric. Care Instructions: Manufacturer says: 40 degree machine wash. Medium tumble-dry. We strongly recommend testing a small piece first to be sure. LONGER MATERIAL: Fabric is cut from the roll and multiple purchases will be left in one continuous piece. For example to order 2 metres select 'metre' option and add quantity 2 to the basket. We will then send your fabric as a 2-metre continuous length. ACCURACY: We always try to use pictures to reflect an accurate representation of the fabric to the best of our ability. Please email us if you require more pictures/details regarding the fabric you are interested in. WHOLESALE ORDER: If you would like to order in bulk quantity please contact us, we will provide you with a best wholesale price. ORDER WITH CONFIDENCE: If you are not satisfied with our product, you will get a full refund or a replacement, just let us know! Please email us if you have any questions. Get yours now while they're still in stock.
Learn how to make broderie anglaise lace (eyelet lace) by hand. It's really easy!
Embroidered Lace Mini Dress with Puff Sleeves and Ruffle Detail for Women Captivating Styles for Every Occasion Elevate your wardrobe with our exquisite collection of women's dresses, designed to flatter every figure and style. Whether you're seeking a chic sundress for a day out or a glamorous evening gown for a special event, our diverse range of dresses will transform you into the epitome of elegance and sophistication. Discover a World of Dress Designs Our curated selection encompasses a variety of dress styles to suit every taste and preference. From flowing maxi dresses to figure-hugging cocktail dresses, we have something for everyone. Explore our collection and discover: A-line dresses: The universally flattering A-line silhouette flatters all body types, creating a balanced and proportional look. Wrap dresses: Embrace a touch of femininity with our charming wrap dresses, designed to accentuate your curves and exude effortless style. Maxi dresses: Flowing and graceful, maxi dresses offer a touch of bohemian elegance, perfect for balmy summer days or casual outings. Cocktail dresses: Elevate your evening attire with our collection of cocktail dresses, ranging from sleek and sophisticated to flirty and fun. Unparalleled Quality and Comfort Crafted from high-quality fabrics and with meticulous attention to detail, our women's dresses are not only stylish but also exceptionally comfortable to wear. Whether you're dancing the night away or strolling through the park, you'll feel confident and at ease in our beautifully designed dresses. Embrace Your Personal Style Our extensive range of colors, patterns, and embellishments allows you to express your unique personality and fashion sense. From bold prints and vibrant hues to classic neutrals and timeless designs, our dresses provide endless possibilities for creating stunning looks that reflect your individuality. Enhance Your Wardrobe With our vast selection of women's dresses, you'll never be short of options for any occasion. Whether you're dressing for work, leisure, or special events, our dresses will ensure you always look and feel your best. Shop with Confidence We are committed to providing an exceptional shopping experience, offering easy returns and exchanges for your peace of mind. Browse our collection today and discover the perfect dress to elevate your style.
There has been enough interest in my new Tambour project, that I thought I would start putting up some how-tos! It’s not the sort of thing that I can do all in one go, so I will be putting up…
Description Heavy Beaded Embroidery Lace Fabric,Bridal Dress Lace Fabric, Couture Lace Fabric , Wedding Dress Lace , 3D Embroidery Lace By Yard It is perfect for amazing bridal dresses, dress making, bridal wear or wedding gowns. Color: Off-White Net: Off-white Material :beads+sequin + pearls. Wide: 51 Inch (130cm) Price is set for 1 yard/91.5 cm. You will receive the fabric in one continuous piece if you purchase more than 1 yard. If you need more information about the lace please contact us. Please note, there might be a slight difference in the color according to PC and Mobile devices! If you want to check the color and quality, you can order a swatch.
SPECIFICATIONSBrand Name: XCL HeroineStyle: ExquisiteNeckline: boat neckSleeve Length(cm): sleevelessTrain: Court TrainOrigin: Mainland ChinaCN: AnhuiDresses Length: Floor-LengthBack Design: Lace UpActual Images: YesWedding Dress Fabric: Tulle & Radiant Taffeta with LaceFor Pregnant Women: YesDecoration: AppliquesD
On Monday, we looked at some introductory tips and information about stitching on organza. Today, we’ll talk a little bit about the starts and the stops – that is, starting and ending threads when embroidering on sheer fabrics. I’m also going to share some news with you at the end of today’s article – there ...
This Marie Jo Italian panty is playful and sexy. A perfect piece to add to your underwear wardrobe. The embroidery on the bottom is a piquant detail. The panties are cut higher on the leg so they do not pinch. Style# 050-1333 Style: Italian Panty Fabric: 46% Polyamide, 35% Polyester, 12% Elastane, 7% Cotton Design: Embroidered, sheer-back lace panty. Playful and feminine: That’s the perfect way to describe these Italian briefs. The embroidery on the bottom adds extra spice. Fit and Tips: Fits true to size.
Whitework embroidery is a broad category that includes any white embroidery worked on white fabric, but commonly associate the term with specific stitches.
Free standing lace is such a neat thing to make with your embroidery machine, but you want to follow these 8 essential tips to do it right the first time.
If you're new to the needlework world, chances are that there's been a question bugging you for a long time now: which fabric to use for hand embroidery? Fabric is one of the key materials for an embroidery project and will heavily influence the end result, so it is only natural to strive for the best option. However, there are so many nuances and implications to this issue and the choice is so wide, that it might get really confusing. So here are some things that will help you navigate confidently through this matter. Which fabric to use for hand embroidery? Without valtzing around, I suggest us starting with the most important question right off the bat. The answer might surprise you, but that's how it is and I want you to keep it in mind during the whole article. The answer is: ANY. That's right. Theoretically speaking, you can step into a sewing/needlework/quilting store and choose ANY fabric as the base for your needlework project. I mean, there are people who stitch on paper, printed photogarphs and even tree leaves and bark, so... Yeah! The choice might actually be much wider than you'd expect. As a more exact answer, here's a list of fabrics you might want to consider as the base for surface embroidery: linen, cotton, muslin (also called calico in some places), batiste, silk, blends (wool/sillk, linen/cotton, silk/cotton), quilting cotton, organza, twill, some synthetic fabrics (rayon, polyester etc. but I would avoid fabrics that are too stretchy – more on that below). And the list goes on. Basically, you can use any fabric which is strong enough to bear your stitching and which allows a threaded needle to pierce through it. However, there is a catch. While you can use virtually any fabric out there as the base for your embroidery project, some options are more preferable for certain features, or because they fit certain techniques better. Or just because they are the classical options that haven't failed stitchers since long time ago (linen = ❤). It is hard to break it down to one simple formula, but there are ways to narrow down your choices. I don't want to put you in rigid frames, though, and say “take this fabric for such cases and don't use this fabric for such cases”, because even if I do say so, watch someone actually break all of these rules and pull it off successfully. Plus we are talking about surface embroidery here. There are certain fabrics that will not work with counted techniques, drawn thread, cross stitch, etc. But for surface embroidery virtually anything will work except for Aida and other low count fabrics. This article is here to encourage you to explore your choices and have a broad perspective on what might work, to make you comfortable with some fabric related terminology and provide you essential tips on choosing and using fabrics. Terms you want to know Let's increase our embroidery vocabulary by learning some useful terms and keeping it simple. Ground fabric is the fabric you are using as the base for your hand embroidery project. Sometimes when fabric is too flimsy to support the stitching, you might want to use a backing fabric, which is the one you attach from behind to the ground fabric. These two layers makes the base of your project stronger and able to bear heavier stitching. Only ground fabric will be visible, so for the backing one you can choose something simple (and non-stretchy!) like muslin or batiste. You don't need to worry about backing your embroidery if your ground fabric is strong enough, though. Warp – type of thread in the fabric weaving which runs parallel to the selvage, the lengthwise thread. Weft – type of thread that runs perpendicular to the selvage, the widthwise thread. It crosses the warp running over and under it, creating the weaving on a loom. Warp and weft threads can intersect in various patterns (compare linen and twill) and might be of different size and weight, thus the difference in fabrics' appearance and texture. Thread count is the number of threads in a square inch of fabric in both directions (meaning both warp and weft count). In other words, the higher the thread count, the denser is the fabric's weaving. Looser weaving makes the holes in the intersection of threads more apparent which is convenient for some embroidery techniques like counted work or cross stitch, and tighter weaving is more convenient for dense stitching like needlepainting and surface embroidery. Evenweave fabric (evenweaves) is the type of fabric weaving with the same number of warp and weft threads in one square inch, where the threads are also same size and thickness. The weaving forms a balanced, even grid with apparent holes between the threads. Plain weave – the type of fabric weaving where each weft thread goes over and under warp threads alternately. One of the most common types of weaving. These fabrics are usually quite tightly woven, have smooth and even surface, are durable and stable and come in a huge variety from muslin to canvas. Plain weaves can be evenweaved if the warp and weft threads are of the same thickness and come in the same number in one square inch. These fabrics are also called balanced plain weaves. Bias goes diagonally across the fabric weaving. Usually when pulled diagonally, fabrics show the most stretch and distortion, which we need to avoid. So don't pull on the bias when you are stitching. Tips on choosing the right fabric I already mentioned the types of fabrics you can consider for hand embroidery in the beginning of the post, but here are some additional tips on how to choose from this variety of options. First of all, when you only start hand embroidering, I recommend using simpler and cheaper materials for your practice. You can find good deals in thrift stores or when sewing/needlework stores run sales. It is up to you to decide on the quantity, but, in my mind, it is better to have 10 pieces of different fabrics so that you can try them and see what feels better, than having a big length of the same fabric which you might get disappointed in and grow tired of. Secondly, for your more serious projects it is better to buy a nice fabric. The rule is: choose the best you can afford. Without getting broke, of course. Narrow down your options and chose the best quality from what suits your budget. Because if there's anything you should invest in regarding your embroidery projects, then it is materials, including the ground fabric. If you have an opportunity to buy embroidery fabrics from specialty stores, it's fantastic! They are designed specifically for needlework purposes, usually have a great quality. Can be rather costly, though, so I would suggest using them for really important projects and not for practice, to not waste the cash. If you aren't able to find any specialty embroidery fabrics in your place of residence and you are wary of ordering it in the web stores then you can try searching good quality cotton, linen or calico (muslin) at sewing or quilting stores. I wouldn't recommend taking fabric that is too sheer and flimsy at first. Because it might not support your stitching well and you will have to back it up and for that you will need to find a backing fabric and preshrink which is a whole round of extra preparations. You want to save your time? Then take the fabric where the holes are not too apparent (the fabric looks smooth) and which is not too leightweight/transparent. Lastly, if you are planning to make something out of your needlework – a pillow, a bag, a table runner – then choose the fabric based on which will work best for that purpose. So, not like “I have this fabric for hand embroidery and I will make a bag out of it”. You can, of course, but bags require a strong material that will withstand constant wearing, dirt, rain and sun, you know. So, choose the material for the bag first, then stitch on it. As long as a threaded needle can pierce it through, it will work. With time you will develop intuitive understanding of what kind of fabric will suit your project the best. But intuition comes from experience and experience comes from practice, so stitch your heart out and try various fabrics until you find “the one” :) Puckering alert One of the worst things that can happen to your finished needlework is puckering. Not want to scare you though! Just going to share some tips that will prevent you from going through this trouble. 1. Be careful with stretchy fabric. If you absolutely need to use this kind of fabric (for example, if you are embroidering on some items of clothing), then use a sewing stabilizer. Otherwise, I would suggest to refrain from using these fabrics as a base for needlework. 2. Put your fabric in a hoop correctly in the following order: the inside ring + fabric + the outside ring. Do it on an even surface of a table, putting the outer ring on directly from above. After putting the fabric in the hoop make sure the tension is high without any sagging. Later, if you notice that the fabric is not as taut anymore, pull it on either sides, but not in the corners! It can cause distortion which ultimantely might lead to puckering. 3. Puckering can also happen after washing the finished needlework if the fabric shrinks too much. Shrinking after washing is common for natural fabrics like linen or cotton, which are also common ground fabrics for embroidery, so you see the tendency. If you want to avoid that – you can preshrink your fabric before you start your embroidery project. 4. After washing your finished needlework iron it and stretch it well. You can stretch it on a canvas, or photo frame, or pin it to a cork board, and leave at least overnight. Now, if I'm to add my personal insight on the puckering thing: I wash almost all of my embroidery works after they are finished and I do it without preshrining my fabric first and I've never dealt with any serious problems. I've only ever dealt with minor puckering, you can see it in the first pictures of the ironing and stretching posts. This minor puckering is very easy to remove by good stretching of the fabric. To conclude this post, if you are starting with hand embroidery my main tip would be just to start. With the materials and tools you already have or you can afford yourself without breaking the bank and bothering too much. Work with simple materials first and advance as you gain more experience, find your style and learn more about your own preferences. What are your tips for choosing hand embroidery fabric? Have you found “the right” one for yourself and what was your journey to it? Share your thoughts! :)
Have you ever wondered how stumpwork artists make those raised sections in some of their work? You know…the sections where the designs form a three dimensional effect. It is all about wires,…
Back to college this week and starting on a new topic of 'texture'. First we took all kinds of paper and had to think of different ways of scrunching and folding it to produce different textures. I must confess that ever since every time I have had a piece of waste paper in my hand I have been experimenting with different ways of doing this. Waxed paper and foil-covered paper are the most satisfying, closely followed by tissue paper! To make the crinkled tubes we loosely wrapped an object like a ruler or a marker pen with a strip of paper and then pushed the tube hard down on its end on the table to produce the concertina effect. Then we moved on to making textures with calico. This piece involved sewing parallel tucks into the fabric using the machine and then sewing across them in alternate directions. This technique is called 'furrowing' and you sometimes see it on posh cushions. The crinkled piece of calico starts off as twice the size of the finished square, which you draw as a guide on the bottom piece of fabric. You can then either attach it all round the edge and in the centre and then 'furrow' it by eye to draw in the remaining fabric or mark dots on the large square and dots on the underside to match-up. I did it the second way - see photo of back below. The two pieces are joined with a small stab stitch, coming from the back of the piece each time. I probably should have turned the raw edge under on the top to finish it off neatly but I quite like the fraying. Then we moved on to raising the surface up quite high in a kind of 'nipple'. This is made by hand sewing a running stitch in a spiral, following a circle or ellipse and pulling it up tightly. The width of your spiral determines the height of your 'nipple'. You need to use double thread to stop it breaking as you pull it up. I haven't sewn this onto a backing yet as we are being asked to consider how we want to display all these textures in a final item. Homework was to try some gathered circles. Clockwise from top left: a circle, gathered with running stitch, stuffed and sewn down with gather underneath a smaller circle made as above, stuffed and sewn down with gather on top a circle, edge turned under then gathered round a circle of card a circle with edge fringed with scissors before gathering round a circle of card a circle gathered round a circle of card with a smaller one sewn on top, gather side down, finished with a strip of ripped fabric which was further fringed with scissors, gathered and joined around the button as a collar a smaller circle gathered round a circle of card with frayed edges showing - a circle of calico tucked under the gathers to finish off the centre a large circle gathered, stuffed and sewn down, with stab stitch from the back to further quilt it At home I experimented with what happens if you gather up a piece of fabric horizontally and vertically. The result is similar to the furrowing but not as neat. As the fabric is mobile inside the square I have pulled the centre flat. I have been experimenting with sticking foil onto felt. I have these foils from card-making that you stick onto tacky glue and peel away to give a gilded effect. I wondered if they would work on fabric, so I tried with felt as I knew we needed some for our next college class. I first tried with bonding powder but that didn't work - I think the grains of powder went into the fibres of the felt too readily and there was not enough stickiness on the surface. So then I tried fusible webbing (Bondaweb). I fused a piece to the felt with an iron and peeled away the backing paper. Then cut inch wide strips of the foil and randomly applied them with the tip of the iron working one colour at a time. The foil strip was held under a piece of baking parchment to stop the iron sticking to the bare webbing and getting all sticky. I also added some Angelina fibres, which you can just see on the blue piece. I am pleased with the results. We had an extra college class at the weekend where we tackled a big project. We were making a small bag with machine lace edging and machined cord handle. First we made the bag pieces. I cut out a paper template for my bag shape and then cut two from my felt. I deliberately chose the most unpromising looking colour, plus I had some new pale variegated thread to use. On top of the felt I cut out two pieces of lace. The lace had butterflies on it so I chose one with a butterfly showing and one where you couldn't tell what it was for contrast. Finally, a layer of sheer fabric went over the top - I chose a gold twinkle organza. Then we secured our fabric sandwich with free-maching all over and free-machined zig-zag round the edge. On the butterfly piece I experimented with trying to emphasis the shape of the butterfly with my stitching. Then the tricky part of making the machine lace. I pinned my bag front onto a piece of Solufleece (water- soluble fabric) and drew a lace design in pencil around. Then we sewed it with free-maching straight stitch, trying to make sure all the loops joined up, else it would come apart when the fabric was dissolved. Next we were supposed to go over it all again with a narrow free-maching zig-zag to make it more defined. I hadn't appreciated how difficult this would be and so only ended up going round the outer edge and the inner arches of my design. The final stage was to dissolve the Solufleece in hand-hot water and leave it to dry, whilst we made the cord. This was done by free-machine zig-zagging over some lengths of wool, until it was covered. To assemble the bag I sewed the front to the back using a standard straight stitch on the machine, trapping the cord in the seam as I went. Finally, I emphasised the butterfly by giving it antennae in seed beads as there were no antennae on the original lace pattern and I didn't think to embroider any on when I stitched the front. This took about 6 hours in total. I am very pleased with how the choice of colours has come out and the butterfly effect on the front. The lace is better on the right-hand side than the left for some reason, where lots of bits weren't joined up properly. Below is a close-up so you can see the stitches!
There has been enough interest in my new Tambour project, that I thought I would start putting up some how-tos! It’s not the sort of thing that I can do all in one go, so I will be putting up…
Please refer to the Missy size chart Enter the hall with grace and beauty in Elizabeth K GL1368. This dress features a bateau neckline and long sleeves of sheer fabric adorned with lace embroidery. A sophisticated t full-length look glides to the floor with grace. This Elizabeth K definitely parades the elegant and classy style. Style: elizabethk_GL1368 Details: Long sleeves, Lace embellished, Bateau neckline Length: Long Neckline: Bateau Waistline: Natural Silhouette: A-Line Please refer to our returns and exchanges policy page (click here) for more details..
Stitching lace insertion to fabric is the first technique that we learn when I teach heirloom sewing by machine. This is not a strong applic...
Embellishments can really add to a garment. I knew I wanted to add beads on the peplum portion of this dress, and I assumed that I would b...
Off White Spiderweb Sequins Lace Fabric, Bridal Lace Fabric, Wedding Dress Fabric Wide : 130cm. Price is for 1 Yard long. We will ship in one piece continue without cutting if you order more than 1 quantity. Very beautiful and romantic. It can be used for boho wedding dress, bridal gowns, tops, garment fabric, skirts, curtains, table cover and etc... We offer special discounts for designers and wholesale orders! About the shipping, If you select shipping by general shipping, usually needs about 7-20 Office days, some country need more time. If need fast shipping pls message me will motify express freight for you, fast shipping such as dhl, fedex, ems and etc... the delivery time just around 3-7 working days, also some country need more time. More styles pls click our shop, https://www.etsy.com/shop/lacejamila?ref=seller-platform-mcnav Please don't hesitate to contact us if you have any questions!
Selling Points 1. Neckline: V Neck 2. Design: Lace Specifications Specification Gender: Women's, Style: Stylish, Modern, Occasion: Daily, Work, Tops Type: Blouse, Neckline: V Neck, Fabric: Polyester, Design: Patchwork, Lace, Sleeve Length: Long Sleeve, Elasticity: Micro-elastic, Look After Me: Machine wash, Top Length: Regular, Pattern: Solid Color, Season: Fall, Spring, Shirts size Listing Date: 08/28/2024, Photos Size Chart Inches Centimeters Size Fit EU Size Fit UK Size Fit US Size Sleeve Length Bust S 36 8 4 69 62 95 M 38 10 6 70 63 100 L 40 12 8 71 64 105 XL 42 14 10 72 65 110 2XL 44/46 16/18 12/14 73 66 115
Another way of filling a shape in your embroidery pattern :) Lots of pictures below, you were warned! So, the stitch of this month is detached buttonhole! Or, rather, the technique of this month, because actually, this stitch has some variations and the name can even be extended to a technique common for stumpwork (which will hopefully be covered in one of the next posts). But I digress. If you are not familiar with a regular buttonhole stitch, check out these posts first: Buttonhole stitch basics Buttonhole stitch variations Buttonhole stitch as a filler Buttonhole stitch tip I recommend trying it out on a spare piece of fabric first, at least the basic one, to get used to the way it is worked. Although, you can actually work detached buttonhole without any preparation! Now, let's start the lesson because it is quite long as it is. Detached buttonhole type 1: loose I'm working this one with 1 strand of floss. First, we need to outline the shape. I used chain stitch, but other line stitches will do just as fine: back stitch, stem stitch, split stitch will suit this purpose. Now, if you strive for perfection, you might want to work the stitches evenly on the left and right sides. In this case, they will serve as a sort of mark. I'm usually the one to take it easy, so my stitches aren't perfectly aligned, they only serve the purpose of being an outline. Because of that I don't have marks and have to rely on my intuition, but I don't really mind, haha. We begin the first row of detached buttonhole the following way: bring the needle up through the fabric at one side of the shape, a little under the top, then slide the needle through one of the stitches of the outline vertically with your tip going downward. Notice how the working end of the thread is being tucked under the needle tip at this step. Pull the needle through, forming a loop. Keep it loose enough, don't pull too tight. But also, keep it in shape, you know? Well, you will get a hang of it once you try! Keep making stitches the same way and don't forget to slide your needle under the top stitches with its tip down and with the working thread tucked underneath. After you make the last loop, insert the needle on the other side of the shape, a little below the top level, mirroring what you did in the first step. Now come up through the fabric on the same side and repeat all the steps except that now you will be anchoring your loops on the ones from the row above. Keep going! By the way, for weaving techniques like this it is always better to use a needle with a blunt tip to avoid picking on thread fibers. I was too lazy to search for one in my stash though, so I just moved the needle with the needle eye down. If you look closely at the loops from different rows you will see the slight difference in how they are formed. It is because we change the direction with every row. But the difference is very difficult to notice without looking closely so we can make this sacrifice in order to save thread, right? It will not work for the other type of detached buttonhole though.... When we finished, we need to anchor the last row. For that, make a loop like you would normally do, tucking the working end of thread under the needle, and then slide the needle under one of the stitches from the outline. It will anchor the loop to that stitch. Keep doing the same with the rest of the loops in the last row. Anchored well! The result. Well, not perfectly neat, but it is a practice so I didn't really sweat over it, haha. I actually used this detached buttonhole for the leaves in this pattern! You can see that it can be worked for irregular shapes as well. Going to be a little challenging, but you just need to calculate the way place your rows. Detached buttonhole type 2: close woven The order of work for this is almost the same, the core movements are identical – we just add one more element. For this shape, I'm using 3 strands of floss, to make the weave even more close and dense. If I worked it with 1 strand of floss it would be a little more airy, but I wanted to show how to get that “heavy” effect. So, work an outline for your shape, I used back stitch here. Then, come upwards through the fabric at one side of the shape and insert the needle at another side on the same level. You are making a giant straight stitch this way, which lies horizontally on the fabric. And then, on the same side where you inserted the needle last time, you will come up a little below that bar, and make a loop. The loop is worked almost the same way as before: the needle sliding downward through the stitch above, except that the needle also goes under the bar before you tuck the working thread under it. So, remember: under the stitch above, under the bar, but over the working thread. This way, you are trapping the bar stitch inside your loop. And then you can continue working the full row repeating the previous steps. When you reach the other side, you need to make a new bar and start another row of detached buttonhole. So, basically, you always start on the same side. With this type of weaving and this thickness of thread, if you start a new row of loops from another side, the difference will be more visible. It is not that likely to start from the other side, though, because you always come back to the same one after making another bar, anyway. But I'm telling this in case your thread ends and you want to continue from the other side. The difference in loops will be clear! Now to the topic of anchoring the loops. I have two suggestions. Here, as you are working the last row of loops, you can slide under the outline stitch as well. So, the order will be: under the loop above, under the bar, under the stitch from the outline, over the working thread. It will create a sort of an edge. Another way is to work the last row of stitches completely (I cut it in half here just to show you what it would look like), and then anchor every loop like you would do with a fly stitch. This is how it can look like. You can also anchor it right over the outline stitches! I used the first method to save thread because it was about to finish, haha. It can be worked even closer, actually. To the point that the background hardly peaks through at all. For that, make your loops shorter – I skipped every other back stitch when I was working the first row, but you can make a loop for each one. So, here are the new ways you can fill your shapes in embroidery. One is an open filling, like lattice, the other is... semi-solid, I would say? It will depend on how closely you work it and how thick your thread will be! Oof, congrats if you made it till here! See you at the next tutorial! :)
Here’s a video tutorial for the seed stitch used in hand embroidery. This is a very simple filling technique! Seed stitch looks great when it’s worked either in a uniform pattern (as it is in the video) or when it’s worked randomly. Some photos of seed stitching are also included. Seed stitch adds not only ...
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