A little ripper but not as small as you think at a length of 152mm or 6 inches! It is an essential knife in the kitchen. Like a nimble young roo the Petty knife is small yet packs a punch! But unlike a joey, this knife is no baby! Its size makes it easier for you to wield but as it is made with premium Japanese hard steel it is just as sharp and just as useful. Not to be confused with the paring knife, the Petty knife is a versatile workhouse and is often described as a smaller Chef’s Knife. However, it is so much more as due to its proportions it has a higher size:control ratio allowing you to carry out finer tasks like deboning a chicken. Use: Not to be overlooked, the Petty is one of the most used knives by professional chefs. Its name came from the French word ‘petite’ but its range of use is not at all small, the petty knife can be used for a wide range of tasks that requires more finesse and control. Due to its smaller size the Petty is often used for peeling or cutting fruit, trimming the fat off meat and even tasks like deboning chicken. Our Petty Knife has the same blade profile as the full sized Chef’s Knife so it can also be used for chopping methods like the rapid rocking technique. Its fine tip is ideal for coring fruit. Its shorter blade ensures finer wielding for tasks like removing the silverskin from tenderloins, skinning and slicing fish, and various off-board/in-hand cutting. The Australian Joeys: The term ‘joey’ refers to the young of any marsupial, however it’s most commonly used for a junior kangaroo or wallaby. Female kangaroos have one offspring at a time, at birth they are smaller than a cherry! But with true blue Aussie battler spirit, the little ripper will immediately crawl up its mother’s fur and into her pouch where it will spend the next eight months! The wonders of Mother Nature! As the joey grows its head and feet can often be seen hanging out of the pouch. When joeys are too young to get out of the pouch the mother roo will lick her pouch to remove dirt, urine (and other solids), what a sheila, that’s a true act of maternal love! This knife is small like an ankle-biter with a blade length of 152mm (6 inches). However, in truth like a joey is a compact bundle of muscle, its size is its power, due to its shorter length it is far more flexible and versatile than our Big Red Chef’s Knife. Joeys although small soon grow sharp claws to defend themselves and forage for food. The Big Red Knives’ Petty Knife is the same but crafted with the same Japanese high-carbon VG-10 hard steel and sharped to the same razor-sharpness, this knife is an equal contender to slicing any tomato as its larger Big Red counterparts. A real trooper! JOEY FACT: Joeys is the name of the Australian Men’s Under 17 International Soccer team! Specs: Collection: Big Red Knives Manufacturer: Koi Knives Made in Australia with Japanese steel Blade steel: VG-10 Japanese hard steel core with Stainless Steel cladding Blade length: 152mm Handle wood: All local but varies from wood of olive trees, Shiraz grapevines from McLaren Vale (wine region of South Australia) to specially sourced wood Australian deserts. Handle length: 133mm Aussie Knives by Aussies: “That’s not a knife, THAT’S a knife” now we all know the memorable quote from Crocodile Dundee but his Bowie knife though good for hunting is not ideal for use in the kitchen. In fact, as far as Aussie knives made by Aussies go and in the words of our bladesmith Shannon “there’s nothing like it that exists.” We are a local Australian company of two, Shannon and Ramon. Our story began in the dry Adelaide Hills with our parents, Shannon’s father was a blacksmith and Ramon has an affinity with Japanese culture as his parents met in Japan. Combined with our love for knives, cooking and making things from local materials, we came up with a unique idea of making traditional Japanese knives with an Australian twist. Since then our company Koi Knives have been making knives for several years we have made a range of 12 Japanese knives. However, many have asked us to make a range of Western knives. Initially, we were hesitant as Western knives are made with softer steel, they tend to be less sharp and also blunt quicker. Where’s our true Aussie early settlers’ pioneering spirit we thought? This is not a challenge! This is an opportunity! We decided to give the idea a fair suck of the bottled sauce and a fair crack of the whip. From there we began designing and eventually crafting this new range. Instead of western steels, we stuck with a Japanese hard high-carbon VG-10 steel as the core of the knife but designed with a Western-style grip. Our knife shed as our HMS Endeavour, we hit the shores of our expedition with this new set of Aussie knives. The first and finest truly Australian knives are crafted here locally by your two local blokes. We sought to pay homage to our land and our native animals with this set. To create a truly unique and Australia product the shape and form of each knife was modelled after a specially chosen iconic native animal which we also emboss onto the steel at the end. Blade: The core of the blade is made entirely of VG-10 is a type of Japanese hard steel, it is cutlery-grade steel with a high carbon content containing 1% Carbon, 15% Chromium, 1% Molybdenum, 0.2% Vanadium, and 1.5% Cobalt. The ‘G’ in VG-10 stands for Gold, as an indicator of the premium standard of quality. This core is then sharpened to razor sharpness and then cladded with the same steel for protection and longevity. After this, we smelt three layers of sandblasted stainless steel on the top section of the blade for a gun-mental steel finish. The sandblasting also on a practical level provide micro air cavities which prevent vegetables from sticking to the blade while cutting. The final result is like the Australian landscape in a blade, from the scorching sands to shimmering shore: from the spine, the darker sandblasted steel tapers down from the grind line to reveal shiny stainless steel before a dancing line glints off the clad edge to the razor-sharp cutting edge. Handle: These Aussie knives are part of our Full Tang Clan. Full tang is when the steel of the blade runs all the way through the handle instead of Partial Tang where the steel might end partway through. Full tang allows for more force to be applied without a risk of the knife snapping at the bolster (the base where the blade transitions to the handle). Our knives are very sharp so less force would have to be applied in any case, however, we chose the full tang design in keeping with the aesthetics of Western knives and to set this collection apart from our Japanese Koi Knives. Functionality was designed into the handle with different grips in mind to fit ambidextrously and snugly in your hand. When using a "Handle In Hand Grip" the bevel contours seamlessly from fingers to palm. When using the "Pinch Grip" the smooth transition from handle to blade forms a great comfortable position to pinch the knife. One of the elements we are most proud of is our signature resin-infused handles crafted with local woods. Each handle is one of a kind and cannot be replicated. All the wood is sourced locally, typically in South Australia’s wine region and varies from the wood from olive trees to Shiraz grapevines, however we have even gathered Gidgee wood from the Simpson Desert. These handles are made with resin in a range of different colours, we feel very strongly about pairing certain colours to the animal that inspired the knife. Maintenance: After each use: Simply wipe down in warm soapy water, dry and place on a knife rack away from humidity. Job done! Long term maintenance: Big Red Knives are made with a VG-10 Japanese steel core and therefore has a higher carbon content than the average Western kitchen knives. This lends the knives their particular long lasting sharpness, however they also like to be kept dry when not in use and should not be exposed extensively to heat, hot water or ambient high humidity. They should most definitely never be put into the dishwasher or other such nonsense. Each knife was made with love, so please take care of them for us! Sharpening: Knives made with a VG-10 Japanese steel core are harder at the edge, this means less honing is needed but should instead be professionally sharpened and ideally with a whetstone. Depending on frequency of use, the knife may need to be sharpened by a professional every 3-6 months for most people. We have an extensive list of sharpeners we can recommend in every state if you’d like to contact us. Handle: Similarly, the handle was crafted with resin and coated with a polish that also should not be soaked in hot water. Extended exposure to hot water may damage the polish on the handle that is the protective shield for the wood and resin. Over the years, if the handle starts to look a bit dull a small amount of furniture polish may be used to buff back the shine. For more information on knife maintenance please see our page: https://www.koiknives.com/pages/maintenance
Read my Esee Knives Review here. I cover everything from the underrated Esee CR2.5, to the RB3, JG3, PR4, their larger 6HM, and more.
Of our more than 1,000 plant-based recipes, these 25 are among the most popular ever. Try one of these healthy vegan recipes today!
I'm back with another Small is Beautiful profile! This week I want to introduce you to the super-talented Jim Henkens. I first discovered Jim's gorgeous food photography via A Boat, a Whale & a Walrus , the cookbook he shot for Seattle chef, Renee Erickson. When I found out he owned an ev
Rainbow Steak Knives by master French knife craftsman Claude Dozorme marry contemporary style with time-honored quality. Two options available: Set of 6: Six rainbow hues across the spectrum. Set of 12: A colorful palette that spans the entire rainbow. Founded in 1902, Dozorme manufactures heirloom-quality knives utilizing ancestral and avant-garde techniques. In the tradition of cutlery that originated in the French village of Laguiole, these knives have curved handles. Handcrafted in France out of carbon stainless steel and acrylic. Hand wash only. Each Rainbow Steak Knife measures 8.5h x .375w x .5"d
Anyone who carries a small knife in their pocket or purse finds many situations when it comes in handy. With stable wood grips and two folding blades (1-1/2 and 2”) this small folder takes up very little space. Very well made yet inexpensive, it’s a real value. You’ll be glad you have it at hand. Two (for yourself and one to share) is even better. Product Specs/Dimensions Knife Length (in.) 6" Blade Length of Small Blade (in.) 1-3/4" Blade Length of Long Blade (in.) 2-1/8" Handle Length (in.) 4" Folded/Closed Length (in.) 3-5/8" Blade Material Stainless Steel Handle Material Pakkawood Individual Items 15T02.01 Garrett Wade Pocket Knife $19.00 Decrease Quantity Increase Quantity Subtotal: $19.00 Add to Wishlist Add to My Wishlist Create New Wishlist
A simple way to make butternut squash shine as a main event. It's simple but beautiful, a great one to serve at a dinner party to feed a crowd
We spoke to experts and used each Deba knife to fillet both large and small fish—evaluating agility and durability.
This Kitchen Safety Crossword Puzzle covers the basics like not using water to put a grease fire, unplug small appliances before cleaning, never leave sharp knives in a sink, and use oven mitts to carry hot items. Answer key is included. ...
El Método Teacch es un excelente método para trabajar con los autistas, ya que ha dado resultados positivos a estos niños , al ser materiales muy atractivos
Classic doesn't have to mean boring. Perfect meatloaf should be tender, juicy and packed with savory flavor. Extra points if it's brushed with a sweet/tart glaze. This is a dish that's equally adept at making your kids jump for joy as your (adult) dinner guests.
In every home, I feel like the owner's bedroom is always the most neglected because let's face it, no one really sees that room except you. BUT, hello, we see it literally every day, so shouldn't we love our own space?! Exactly one year after I finished tiling our kitchen and our hall bathroom, I decided I needed to do just one last tiling project in our home--our bathroom! Check out my past tiling projects below // DIY MODERN FARMHOUSE TILED KITCHEN WALL & BACKSPLASH DIY MODERN FARMHOUSE BATHROOM WITH TILE WALL & DARK GROUT I know there have been talks that subway tile is on its way out, but newsflash, it's classic, and it will never go out. It has been a classic style for over 100 years. Besides, it matches the rest of my house, so I went with a similar style that we did in our hall bathroom, and toned it down a bit in order to make it more spa-like for our own personal retreat. I was able to save a little money on this room's refresh because I pulled a lot of the same decor from our hall bathroom into our bathroom. We couldn't find anything else that we liked to represent our personal style better than we already achieved in the hall bath, so much so that we bought the same exact shower curtain. haha! That was our sign to move everything into our bathroom and give the hall bathroom a refresh just for Bentley! For this project, we went with the same grout color as our kitchen. We love, love the dark grout in our hall bathroom, but oh my gosh is it the absolute worst to work with, and it is far less forgiving when you're not a professional tiler. Except, I've tiled three rooms so far, so y'all think I can be a pro-tiler now?! Whose house am I going to first?! haha! Okay, I've made you wait long enough...here's the BEFORE. I seriously can't believe we were okay with our bathroom looking like this for the past two years. Get ready for the tiling process. I'll share a few tips & tricks throughout the process, too! For the first time in my DIY career, our vanity countertop was level. Because it was level, I based my tiled wall off of the countertop backsplash that's attached. I tiled 4 tiles up just like I did in the hall bathroom to keep them cohesive. As you're doing the last row of tiles on the top, you'll want to finish it off with a tile edging trim. I opted for black so that it would match our fixtures and match the hall bathroom. Pro Tip: When tiling behind the toilet, be sure to apply your tile adhesive to each tile vs the wall. The easiest way to tile behind the toilet is to remove the tank. There's minimal mess and it's super easy to reattach. This is also where one of two tricky tile cuts came into play. I had to use my wet saw to cut out a notch in one of the tiles in order for it to fit in line with the vanity backsplash and fit under it as well. Once I got that one cut out of the way, it was smooth sailing on down behind the toilet. At the base of the toilet, there is a slight gap between the bottom tile and the baseboard, but I'd rather have a slight gap that I paint white than cutting tiny slivers of tile. I did tiny slivers of tile in the hall bathroom, and it was so much work for not a lot of reward. Plus, it's down so low behind the toilet and trash can that literally no one ever sees it. Up next: Tiling above the shower surround. I went back and forth between tiling above the surround or leaving it the drywall. In the end, I am so glad that I decided to tile it. I never realized how wet the wall was getting from the shower and steam, so tiling the wall has not only made the space beautiful, it is serving as a wall protectant as well. Pro Tip: Find the center of the wall and draw a line going up the wall. You'll be able to line the edges of the tile to the line or mark the center of the tile with a permanent marker and line that up to your wall line. One thing above the shower surround that I did not get so lucky with was the leveling. It was off by almost half an inch in some places. The left side dipped lower, so I placed the right side tiles first so that I could create a level line. I started the right side tiles in the exact center of the wall because I wanted a full tile to be at the bottom center and tile from there. I found it best to have a slight gap between the bottom tile and the shower surround in order to create a level line and a less noticeable gap going across. I checked the level of the tiles every couple of tiles so that the tile adhesive would still be movable in case it was off for some reason. As I made my way to the right side of the shower, I was able to maintain a level line with minimal gaps. Once I got to the far side, it was time for a piece of tile edging. I used a white bullnose for the sides of the shower in our bathroom--mainly because I had them on hand from our last tiling project, so it kept us below budget! Pro Tip: Use painter's tape to help keep the tile edging in place until the tile adhesive fully dries. The only annoying cuts I had to make above the shower surround was a rounded cut so that the tile could fit perfectly around the showerhead, and then the bottom left row. All of the bottom left row needed to be trimmed ever-so-slightly to keep the tiles level going around. Keep in mind that trimming a tile 1/4 to a 1/2 inch won't be noticeable, but uneven grout lines will. Always, always keep your grout lines level. I kept checking the level as I went across again, and this is when I noticed I was going to have about a 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch gap at the top as well since the bottom was so unlevel. I recently discovered a foam backer rod that I was able to cut to size to help fill in that gap. This allowed me to be able to caulk right over it, and boom, problem solved, and no one will ever know...except all of you reading this. So, shh! Don't tell anyone else my secret. In the photo above, you can see the gap before it was filled in. It's totally noticeable when you can see the gray paint above, but once it's filled in white, you can't even tell. Once all of the tiles have had a couple of hours to dry in place, it's time to grout! Chris helped me tape off the ceiling since I was just ever-so-slightly too short to reach, and then I was on my crazy merry way. There's something so intense about grouting. Do you ever need an adrenaline rush? Grout some tile. You have to get grout into every bit of the tile grout lines, attempt to not make a complete mess, and grout the wall (and in my case, walls!) all before the grout seizes and is completely useless. Chris came in to help me with the sponging process since it's such a meticulous part of the process. I wanted to make sure both of us were keeping an eye on perfecting the grout lines, filling in any missing grout gaps, and he also helped get the top rows sponged for me since I could barely reach them. Thankfully my parents were in town while we did this project, so Bentley was downstairs with them while we grouted! Pro Tip: Purchase the matching grout caulk so you can fix any gaps or perfect a grout line. This came in handy to caulk between the top of the shower surround and bottom tile, in the gap between the tile edging, and in fixing bubble holes after the grout had dried. I also wanted to mention one other DIY expert call out. I'm not a tiling expert by any means, but I know when a wall is unlevel and there's no way that I'll be able to fix something. As I was tiling down the vanity cabinet, I knew that creating a perfect line was going to be impossible for one reason only. The freakin' wall is crooked. If I wanted to fill in the tiny gap of tiles, I would have had to trim a tile to less than 1/4 inch, and quite frankly, that's just not safe on a wet saw nor did I want to go through all of that trouble. I picked up a white primed and painted trim piece from our local hardware store and secured it in place with humidity-resistant Gorilla Glue and bam, gap is gone and the side of the cabinet looks perfectly finished. The last part of any DIY project is caulking seams. I caulked along the sides of the tile edging to close the gap between the wall and of course at the ceiling. I didn't get a picture of the foam that I put in the gap at the top, but that is what the gray line is that I'm caulking. Also, remember caulk is flexible, so as the caulk fully dries, it may shrink a bit. For me, I have to go back once more to recaulk the top line in a few weeks. This also happened in our kitchen, and with one last simple swipe of caulk, it's perfect again. Homes shift, materials shrink and expand, and I think that's not talked about enough. If you see gaps in between caulk lines or woodwork, it's not always due to poor workmanship...it's just a part of being a homeowner. Now that I've shown you my third tiling process...it's time for the reveal! Drum roll, please... What do you think?! Not too shabby for a two-day project and we are obsessed with our new bathroom. This just goes to show that you can make a huge impact on your space with a weekend and around $200! Shop My Post! Tiling Essentials JavaScript is currently disabled in this browser. Reactivate it to view this content. Bathroom Decor JavaScript is currently disabled in this browser. Reactivate it to view this content. Home Updates JavaScript is currently disabled in this browser. Reactivate it to view this content.
Japanese knives are world-renowned for their craftsmanship. Learn about the different types, how to care for the knives, and where to buy them.
Din knivs nye bedste ven. Samlet af små stykker af teak end korn får hver skærebræt et unikt mønster i forskellige lys og mørkebrune nuancer. Teak indeholder naturlige olier, der er resistente over for fugt og bakterier, og de opadgående fibre på endekorn absorberer påvirkningen fra knivbladene sublimt. Dette sikrer en top-notch holdbarhed-både med hensyn til selve tavlen og de knive, der bruges på det. Bestyrelsen har indbyggede greb i hver ende og en saftrille, der samler væsker og smuldrer, før de skaber problemer.Materiale: Teak Ende KornMål: LxBxH 56x35x4 cm
Wooden Karambit: This is tutorial on how to make your own wooden knife, or in this case karambit.
Introducing the Laguiole gentleman's knife - the perfect accessory for your purse or small pocket. With a sleek 2.2/8" / 5.8 cm blade, this compact penknife offers the utmost convenience and practicality. From cutting strings to opening packages, removing staples, and tackling everyday chores, this versatile tool has got you covered. Like all Forge de Laguiole knives, this gentleman's knife is meticulously handcrafted in the village of Laguiole. Renowned for their unparalleled quality, Forge de Laguiole knives surpass all others in the market today. Moreover, each miniature work of art is crafted by the same artisan, ensuring pride in every finished piece. Fact! Situated in the village of Laguiole, Forge de Laguiole is home to approximately 100 employees and stands as France's most distinguished Laguiole knife producer. What's Included Penknife Branded gift envelope Warranty certificate Full-color manufacturer pamphlet Warranty & Repairs Support Free Shipping Free one-location Engraving Forge de Laguiole knives are shipped the same business day from Florida when ordered by 2 PM Eastern time. UPS delivery can be expected in 1 to 3 business days, depending on the destination. International shipping options are available at checkout. Specs. Blade: 2.2/8" / 5.80 cm long - 2 mm thick made of Stainless Steel. Handle: 7 cm (2.75") Plates & bolster: 1.2 mm thick brass plates and 4 mm thick solid brass bolsters. Weight: Approx. 20 grams (0.7 oz.)
Try a little something different with this easy recipe for Thai-Style Halibut using Thai flavors with fish from Market Street.
This wholesome, oil-free Vegan Sauerkraut Strudel (Krautstrudel) brings all those amazing German savory flavors together in a delightfully easy roll.
