The Latvian Braid is a spectacular knitting technique that creates the look of a twist or rope embedded into your knitting. Unlike the Estonian (or Vikkel/Lateral) braid, the Latvian Braid is worked in a three round process and is typically worked in two colors. In order to function properly using two colors, it must b

Mending knit socks makes them last longer, and using visible mending means not worrying about using matching yarn! This visible mending used swiss darning.

Are you ready to add a touch of creativity to your knitting projects? Look no further than the Undulating Edge Knitting Pattern Video Tutorial by JoannesWeb.rnIn this tutorial, we'll guide you through the process of creating a mesmerizing undulating edge that will undoubtedly make your knitting project stand out.

Laine is a high-quality Nordic knit &, lifestyle magazine for knit folks. We cherish natural fibres, slow living, local craftsmanship, and beautiful, simple things in life. Our intention is to inspire you to gather and share, to be part of a community of like-minded knitters, makers and thinkers from near and fa

Slip-stitch jogless stripes were the subject of a post way back in January 2007. Then in the spring of 2009, Interweave Knits published an jogless stripe article by me which included the 2007 info plus some new info about barberpole (helix) jogless stripes. The article also came with a video. With the two most recent posts, helix stripes and a link to the video have now been added to this blog, and the only part of the 2009 article not yet reproduced are some pretty pictures of slip-stitch jogless stripes. These pictures cover the same ground as the 2007 slip-stitch jogless post--identical info--but these new pictures are prettier. Rather than mess with the original post, I'm putting them into a post of their own--maybe these prettier pictures will shed a better light than the old pictures, even though the process is identical. * * * Slip-stitch jogless stripes General directions:  *On color change rounds, change colors by simply knitting the first stitch of the new color as you normally would knit any stitch. Next, knit the rest of the stitches to the end of the round.  On the next round, slip the first stitch of the new color, then knit the rest of the stitches. On every following round, knit every stitch as usual  Repeat from * every time you want to change colors. Per the illustration below, slipping the stitch at the beginning of the second round (green arrow) pulls that first stitch of the new color up to span both first and second rounds; the last stitch of the previous color gets pulled smaller (orange arrow); and the stitch of the old color in the row below the slipped stitch gets pulled up along with the slip stitch stitch (purple arrow). These forces arrange the stitches into smaller “steps” (black arrows) lessening the contrast between the old color and the new and essentially eliminating the jog. How the slip stitch makes the stripe jogless Jogless slip-stitch stripes come in two types: “traveling” and “stationary.” The actual technique is as shown above, and is the same in both, the only difference is the point at which you change color. TRAVELING stripes Per the illustration below, if you choose to let the beginning of the round travel one stitch to the left with each color change (orange arrow) then every part of every row will be the same height and have the same number of stitches, and these are the traveling stripes. Traveling jogless stripes Here are complete step-by step directions for this type:  On the round before you intend to change colors, insert a stitch marker at the place you intend to change colors.  *On the color change round--slip the marker, then change colors by simply starting to knit with the new color.  On the following round, when you come to the marker, slip it. Then, slip the first stitch of the new color from the left needle to the right needle purlwise (ie: not twisted). Knit all the rest of the stitches of the round.  Knit as many rounds as you desire for the stripe, knitting every stitch. One round before your next color change, shift the marker over one stitch to the left. Make more stripes by repeating from *. Stationary stripes If you choose to hold the beginning of the round in the same place, then in the color-change column (orange arrow) each stripe will be one stitch shorter, and these are the stationary stripes. Stationary jogless stripes Stationary, closeup  Here are complete step-by step directions for this type: On the round before you intend to change colors, insert a stitch marker at the place you intend to change colors. *When you come to a color change round, slip the marker, then change colors by simply starting to knit with the new color.  On the following round, when you come to the marker, slip it. Then, slip the first stitch of the new color from the left needle to the right needle purlwise (ie: not twisted) Knit the rest of the stitches of the round.  Knit as many rounds as you desire for the stripe, knitting every stitch. Make more stripes by repeating from *. Which stripe where?  The advantage to traveling stripes is that every part of every round is the same height; the disadvantage is that the round beginning "travels" one stitch leftward with every color change (illustration 10) Also, with traveling stripes, a faint spiral pattern will develop along the diagonal of the color change. This spiral pattern is more obvious in heavy fabrics and less obvious in thinner fabrics, so the traveling stripes are better for thinner stripes and/or thinner wool.  The advantage to stationary stripes is that the color change remains in the same place; the disadvantage is that at one part of each round, that round will dip one stitch lower. (illustration 12). With thin stripes, and/or in thin wool, you'd soon have substantially fewer stitches along this column, so the fabric might start to "pull" along that column of stitches. However, with thick wool (5 st/in or fewer) and/or thicker stripes, this isn't an issue because knitting stretches enough to solve the problem. Therefore, stationary stripes are best for thick wool and/or thick stripes. -TK

With this method, you can line a jacket and finish its seam allowances at the same time.

Includes 13 illustrations Click any illustration to enlarge When using an ordinary chain bind off to cast off a circularly knitted garment, there are several methods of dealing with the last stitches: the gappy default Method 1--an OK method Method 2--a pretty good method Method 3--an excellent method The gappy default: The gappy default is to simply chain bind off all the way around, and then to end the bind-off by pulling the tail yarn (yellow) through the last stitch (blue). In this default method, the knitter simply accepts the gap between the first stitch bound off (green) and the last stitch bound off (blue) as shown on the illustration below. The OK method (method 1) To close the unsatisfactory gap left by the default method, a refinement has been added by many knitters, as follows: 1a: After binding off the last stitch (blue) thread the tail (yellow) onto a blunt tipped, large-eyed sewing needle ("tapesty needle"). Insert the tapestry needle up into the blue stitch from underneath, as if you were pulling the final tail through the last stitch in ordinary chain bind off per the default method. Next, insert the needle from the back to the front, under BOTH arms of the first stitch bound off (green). Illustration 1a shows the tail (yellow) worked through the last stitch bound off (blue), and the needle inserted under the two arms of the first stitch bound off (green). 1b: Th needle, which has been drawn through the green stitch to the front, is then re-inserted into the top of the blue stitch, inserting from the top, downwards, as shown. 1c: This method creates a bridging stitch (yellow) between the last stitch bound off (the blue) and the first stitch bound off (green). As you can see, the bridging stitch actually acts as an additional chain bind-off stitch inserted into the top of the bind off. Truthfully, in thin yarn, this extra stitch (yellow) is unlikely to ever be noticed, but in bulky yarn, that extra (yellow) stitch may cause an awkward bump. The GOOD method (method 2) In order to maintain the pattern of bound-off stitches around the top without inserting an extra stitch, method 2 has you stop the chain bind off one stitch before the end. Thus, the last stitch bound off (blue) stops when there remains one fabric stitch "live" (not bound off) and that is the orange stitch. Specifically: 2a: To work method 2, the first step is to thread the tail (yellow) onto a tapestry needle. The needle is then inserted purlwise into the last remaining live fabric stitch (orange) as shown in illustration 2a, and next inserted up into the last stitch bound off (blue) from underneath. 2b: The needle is drawn through the top of the last stitch bound off (blue) and next inserted from the back to the front, under BOTH arms of the first stitch bound off (green). 2c: The needle, which has been drawn through the green stitch to the front, is then re-inserted into the top of the blue stitch, working from the top downwards, and then inserted knitwise into the top of the orange stitch, as shown below. 2d: As you can see, the result of method 2 is really pretty good. The (yellow) bridging stitch which you have created with the tail yarn is not an extra stitch as it was in method 1: although the yellow stitch was worked with a sewing needle, it is actually a knitted chain bind-off stitch worked into the top of the final live fabric stitch (orange). In fact, this little trick of making knit stitches with a sewing needle is the same idea as the Kitchener stitch (also called grafting). In other words, method 2 grafts the top of the last stitch bound off (blue) to the top of the first stitch bound off (green), while also binding off the last live fabric stitch (orange) all this while following the same path which the other knitted bind-off chains have followed. The EXCELLENT method (method 3) Now circular knitting, as you know, is not actually done in circles. Rather, circular knitting is done in an endless spiral, where each round has no true beginning or end. This means that any method which simply binds the last stitch to the first will create a jog where the level changes. Specifically, the last stitch bound off (blue) is actually one row higher than the first stitch bound off (green) and so there is a little jog where the levels are drawn together: the green stitch is humped up slightly, while the blue stitch is drawn down. For sheer perfection, it is possible to modify method 2 by adding one more refinement to the top of a circular bind off, and this last refinement (method 3) does away with this level change--it eliminates that jog. Normally, the jog of the level change in spiral knitting is smoothed over by simply sliding the first stitch of the round from one needle to the next, thus forcing it to span two rows. (This is the trick behind eliminating the jog in jogless stripes). However, simply slipping a stitch at the top of the work would result in the bar behind the slipped stitch perhaps showing on a rolled edging (as you know, a rolled edging exposes the purled side of a stockinette fabric, so that the bar behind the stitch slipped across would show). Therefore, we've got to find another trick to reduce the height level between the first stitch bound off and the last stitch bound off (blue) and the trick we'll use in this case is to knit into the stitch below. Here's how: 3a: Begin this method by knitting a stitch into the stitch below. (Click here for further information on knitting into the stitch below.) In this case, the orange stitch above has been knit into the purple stitch below. Both of these stitches are then caught onto the same holder (in this case, the coil-less safety-pin illustrated). The chain bind-off now proceeds in the ordinary manner beginning with the following (green) stitch. (Note that as you start the chain bind off, it's important not to draw up the running yarn too tightly. If you skip ahead to step 3e, you'll see that it is necessary to leave a moderate amount of slack in the orange stitch. How much slack? In this, as in so many things in knitting, use makes master.) 3b: The bind-off proceeds around the garment, and comes back to where it began, stopping when the stitches on the holder are reached. The tail (yellow) is threaded onto a tapestry needle, and inserted purlwise into BOTH stitches on the holder, the orange and the purple. This step ends when the needle is inserted up into the last stitch bound off (blue) working from underneath, upwards, as shown. 3c: The needle is drawn out through the top of the blue stitch, and next inserted from the back to the front under BOTH arms of first stitch bound off (green). 3d: The needle, which has been drawn through the green stitch to the front, is re-inserted into the last blue stitch, working from the top, downwards, as shown. The needle is then inserted knitwise into the orange and purple stitches, as shown. 3e: As you can see, knitting the orange stitch into the purple stitch helps eliminate the jog. Leaving a moderate amount of slack in the orange stitch back in step 3a means that this orange stitch has enough play to stetch across the change of level. Also, because this orange stitch was knitted into the purple stitch below it rather than bing slipped, there is no slipped yarn acorss its back to show on the purl side of a rolled edging. As in method 2, the green and blue stitches are connected by the yellow bridging stitch, which also binds off the remaining live stitches (orange and purple). As to which method to use, the choice is obviously yours. My own usage is as follows: On a toe-up sock top, method 1 (the OK method) is fine--the yarn of a sock is so thin that the extra chain stitch squeezed in will never show. Plus, trying to work method 2 or method 3 means working a sewing needle in the correct sequence through very small stitches indeed--a job which would certainly require me to get up out of my chair and hunt out a pair of magnifying glasses. On a bulky hat brim, method 2 is the method I would use: The slight jog would look better to my eyes than the doubled bulk of method 3. However, on the bound off edge of a garment knit circularly in the range of 5 st/in to about 6.5 st/inch, I would certainly choose Method 3, the excellent method, especially if the garment has a rolled edge. Done correctly, method 3 simply will not show--it is even hard to find if you go hunting for it with your glasses on. Of course, there is always a rascal in paradise, and so it is here. With all three of these methods, the tail remains loose and has to be worked in. For this, I personally would pull off the tapestry needle, re-thread the tail yarn onto a nice sharp needle, and skim in the end. For a rolled edge, I'd skim on the stockinette (front) face of the fabric, just in the first row down, where the skimming would be hidden by the roll of the fabric. * * * This post is part of a series. The others in this series are: Ordinary chain bind off, part 1: binding off along a straight edge Part 2a: binding off in the middle of a fabric--starting the bind off Part 2b: binding off in the middle of a fabric--ending the bind off * * * --TK You have been reading TECHknitting on: Casting off circular knits.

Yesterday, I talked about Cornucopia shawls, and why I dropped the term “vortex shawls” and using this one instead. Let’s

Separate stitch patterns separately to create a new look

You know what's frustrating? Making a flower for a hat and loving it enough to sew it onto the hat only to wish you could replace it later....

The Old Norwegian Cast On is similar to the common long-tail cast on method but involves a few extra steps. Those who are familiar with the German Twisted Cast On might recognize itas the same cast on method with a (literal) small twist. We recommend being intimately familiar with the longtail cast on before attempting this method. Making this cast on in an even gauge creates a stretchy edge that resists curling, which is great for knitting socks, hat brims, and other fitted knit items. However, this cast on method also uses more yarn, so make sure you have a very long tail before you begin! With this tutorial, you'll learn easily how to cast on for knitting with an insanely handy method.

Закрытие петель краев и планок техникой 'I-CORD'

This week I’m going to walk you through 6 types of sweater armholes and what they have to do with your body, starting with the bust.

Whenever I do the KNITerviews, I get really geeked about sewing with knits which makes me want to add a few extra posts to help get people started sewing with...

Herringbone stitch is a very simple stitch. When herrigbone stitch is use in a curve design, the re sult is more attractive than doing it on a parallel line. The pictures below will describe the sequence step by step to do herring bone.If anybody needs more details, please writeto me. Step 1: Step 2: Step 3: Step 4: Step 5: Step 6: Step 7: Step 8: Step 9 : Herringbone:

I have been knitting for a long time, but I still sometimes have problems with binding off too tightly. I think it’s because I’m in a rush to finish, so I don’t take the time to d…

Do you want to learn how to crochet? I've put together all the info you need to get started in one place - grab your yarn and a hook and follow along!

Find out how to create a lettuce hem on your garments using a regular sewing machine.

Hey crafty gals! I hope the weather is as nice where you are as it is here in Melbourne. I have all the windows in my house open and I am just soaking in this fabulous 70 degree weather with a refreshing crisp breeze. There's nothing like it! I hope you have checked out the Patterned Paper Wreath Remix--what a great way to welcome Spring! (Depending on what that little Groundhog sees tomorrow, I suppose.) I received a few questions about the embellishments on the wreath so I thought I'd give ya the instructions on how to make 'em. First of all, the pattern for that oh-so-sweet flower is not a Crafty Girl original--it came from a blog called A Little Birdie Told Me. It's a great tutorial for beginners as it has lots of pictures! The leaves, though, are result of playing around and because I'm a new crocheter, my "pattern" may not be correct in terms of jargon, but I think you'll get the picture. ; ) Start with a chain of 14. Then in the second stitch from your hook, make one sc going through the top half of the chain (all stitches will only go through one side of the chain--see pictures below to see what I mean). 1 hdc in each of the next two stitches, and then 1 dc in each of the next two stitches. Chain one, then 1 tr in each of the next three stitches. Chain one, then 1 dc in each of the next two st, 1 hdc in each of the next two st, 1 sc in the last stitch. Chain two and repeat the same pattern, working up the other side. This picture illustrates how to work your crochet into half of the chain. You'll work into the other side of the chain when you work your way around. Here's a visual of how I wrote the pattern in my trusty graph-paper notebook that goes absolutely everywhere with me: Yeah. As I was writing this, it occurred to me that newbies should not be writing crochet patterns. Hope it makes sense to you in some capacity!

How to use a twin needle – double needle sewing I use my twin needles on my regular sewing machine mostly for hemming stretch fabrics, and therefore I prefer Klasse’ Twin Ballpoint Needles Size 80 – 4.0mm. The universal twin needles they sell at Joann sometimes work and sometimes don’t – like when I was sewing...Read More

Les aiguilles de Mamet. 112,053 likes · 29 talking about this. Site de partage et d' entraide Gratuit . Mes créations sont avec tutos, les photos " via " sont des

I’ve been playing. Obsessing, really. I broke out the Indigo and started to experiment this week. I wanted to try the Shibori tie-dyeing process using all natural dyes. You see, Indigo is kind of…

So here we are… Our final week! I have enjoyed making this Crochet-A-Long with all of you so much!! I love the way it turned out and I sure hope you do to!! Let me know what you think!! Beatrice Ryan Designs Crochet-A-Long Afghan~Completed This week we will be doing our edging… It is a […]

Here are five points that are helpful to know about hand embroidery needles: 1. Types: Different embroidery needles do different jobs. There are several commonly used embroidery needles. Embroidery (or “crewel”) needles have sharp points and slightly elongated eyes. They’re used for crewel work and most surface embroidery where piercing through the fabric threads is ...