A while back, I wrote about how to re-work a 12-harness double weave pattern that had a LONG lift plan. What to do when you have just 14 treadles and the drawdown calls for 24? Basically, I shortened the treadling -- using the same twill pattern but ending it at treadle 14 -- and it worked just fine. The photo above shows the piece on the loom. To back up: the pattern was from Marian Stubenitsky's book, Weaving with Echo and Iris. On page 163, she shows a multi-color double weave pattern with four colors in the warp and two in the weft. Since I had a lot of 18/2 superfine merino in my stash, I wound a warp and beamed it on, mainly because I had never woven anything like this before and I was excited to try. There were problems, of course. (Need I say this? I think of every warp as a journey and I always have to work the kinks out at first, even when I have woven the same pattern before.) For instance, the treadling was on a curve, ascending and descending to create the diamond shape you see above. Trouble is, when you're weaving double weave, you have to "skip" a treadle as you reach the point where you reverse order -- otherwise, you repeat a pick and it looks like an error. So, where you would normally weave 6-5-4-3-2-1-2-3-4-5-6, for instance, you can't do that with double weave. The reason being that the odd-numbered treadles are weaving one side of the pattern and even numbered treadles are weaving the opposite side -- and that means the even-numbered side would have a repeat: 6-4-2-2-4-6 with nothing in between the 2's. So you have to skip a pick on that side, weaving 6-4-2-4-6. If you don't follow me on this, suffice it to say that I had to adjust the treadling a bit. And then there were the selvages.... It took me maybe 12 inches of weaving before I got those right. Not easy. And finally, there was the problem of not being able to see the underside of the fabric as I wove. This isn't a problem unless you're weaving double weave, where the bottom layer is different from the top. Many weavers recommend using a mirror attached to the breast beam so that you can see the bottom layer as you weave. Which I should have done. It's a lot easier to correct a treadling error on the loom instead of stitching in a new weft with a tapestry needle once the piece is off the loom. Enough complaining. Here's how it turned out, after plying the fringe and washing (and fulling it slightly). The blue side A closeup The black side, with an iridescence that reminds me of oil in a puddle Thank you, Marian!
Download our e-book! It's free! Old Shale, Variations of an Old and Much Loved Lace Stitch is a stitch dictionary of variations of a single lace stitch. The Old Shale lace stitch has been knitted and modified for ages. It works well on baby blankets, socks, sweaters, shawls, afghans, and anything else that can be knitted. You can download Old Shale on Ravelry at http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/old-shale-variations, which will let you find it easily in your own Ravelry library and keep up with updates. Members of the Wednesday afternoon knitting study group came up with the idea to knit 25-inch samples of 10 different versions of Old Shale to explore and record some of the possible ways to knit this lovely, old lace stitch. We pursued this project for the fun of seeing the samples that could be produced by a group of knitters, all sharing the work of knitting useful swatches. Individually, none of us would likely have ever knit a 25-inch long swatch, or knit 40 variations of one lace stitch. Working together, laughing and talking over coffee, the work was nothing. The product will be useful for many years to come. We hope you will find these variations of Old Shale inspiring and useful in your own work.
Description: Learn to use the clasped weft technique for a unique twist on the classic houndstooth pattern! Clasped weft makes a unique irregular pattern. It looks difficult, but we’ll make…
Learn to Make Blended Batts on a Drum Carder. Blend and Card Wool on a Brother Drum Carder to make Wool Batts for Spinning Yarn, Needle Felting, and Felting Projects.
A blog about Saori hand weaving,sewing clothing from hand wovens and many fiber arts from felting to hand spinning to fiber dyeing.
A blog about Saori hand weaving,sewing clothing from hand wovens and many fiber arts from felting to hand spinning to fiber dyeing.
Spinning an Alpaca Gradient Yarn Free Knitting Pattern for Handspun Yarn This project was spun on the Schacht Sidekick Spinning Wheel Sometimes the fiber tells us what yarn it wants to make, and sometimes we plan a spin from start to finish. When some local alpaca fiber came my way, I was inspired b
Whether you’re just getting started Needle Felting or have a few projects under your belt, you might discover something new after checking out this list!
Tutorial to teach you the best way for washing wool fleece by hand for spinning, felting, or knitting.
Don't you just love it when your child's school give you exactly 2 days' notice to whip up a fancy dress costume! Yesterday we were told that my daughter's school were going to be having a "Harvest Themed" fancy dress day to raise money for the school. The obvious options were to go as a farmer, scarecrow or milkmaid - none of which we had at home and none of which I could persuade my daughter to go as. Apparently they're not "pretty enough." So here I am, trying to create a pretty Harvest costume out of thin air. I wanted to make an autumnal coloured skirt, which may or may not be decorated with leaves if I manage to find the time from somewhere... (as you can see, I didn't.) The Tutorial I decided to make a kind of layered, floaty tutu, but I wanted it to be slightly different from the kind that is just strips of fabric knotted around a piece of elastic. I wondered if it would be possible to make the strips twist and twirl like falling leaves as they cascaded. To make the skirt you need: - A metre or 2 each of as many different coloured nylon and polyester satin, organza and tulle fabrics you can find. (I live in a small town and so I was limited to just a few shades of habutai polyester, some lining fabric and some bright orange tulle fabric.) I already had a few remnants of other fabrics that I was able to put to use. 2 metres or so of 4cm wide ribbon. Elastic Pattern Pieces Candle lighter Scissors Thread Pins Sewing machine Print out the 3 pattern pieces, cut out the grey shapes and tape them together into one long semi-circular strip. Fold your different coloured fabric pieces up as many times as possible, allowing you to cut out 8 to 10 pieces at the same time. I found the safest way to ensure that all of the fabric was under the pattern piece was to fold it over and under like a concertina. If you have a lot more time than me, you could cut each piece out individually, which would make more economical use of your fabric, giving you a few more strips to work with. In the end I managed to cut 44 pattern pieces out of as many different fabrics I could find. To prevent the fabric edges from fraying and to give the fabric pieces more volume, singe around all the edges with a candle lighter - of course this method is only suitable for nylon and polyester. Never try this with cotton or silk and always do a test sample first over a bucket of water! The net or tulle fabric don't need to be singed as it doesn't fray. The skirt could be made completely out of tulle if you prefer, but you would need a lot more fabric and a lot more layers to get a similar effect. Once you've singed around all of the edges of your nylon and polyester fabric it's time to start assembling the layers. Before you start pinning, work out what your colour pattern is going to be. I had 5 different fabrics, all in varying quantities, so on a piece of paper, I made a note of the order I needed to arrange my fabrics so that I had an even spread of colour all around the skirt. Each piece is pinned to the previous piece at the straight edge. Overlap your pieces so that just a couple of centimetres is left exposed. Continue from left to right, staggering the overlaps until all of your fabric pieces have been used up. Alternate the direction of the curve in the pattern pieces as you work your way along the skirt. Here's a close up of the singed edges of fabric. You can see that the opacity of some of the fabrics means that you don't need nearly as much fabric, as you would with just tulle, to get quite a dense looking skirt. To make the skirt a lot more solid looking I added a circle underskirt to the whole thing. To draw the pattern for my circle skirt I used this ingenious page by the Scientific Seamstress. It's brilliant! It allows you to print out lots of pieces of paper that all tape together to form a quarter circle of concentric circles. I worked out how large the circumference of the inner circle needed to be by loosely measuring my daughter's hips and then adding a few centimetres. From that I worked out what diameter the waist hole needed to be*. This gave me the size of the cut out hole in the centre. Onto that I added double the length that I wanted the skirt to be and this gave me the diameter of the circle I needed to cut out. I hope that all made sense! *For reference, the formula for working out the diameter from the circumference is :- Diameter = Circumference divided by Pi Once all of your strip pieces have been pinned together, run a long basting stitch across all of the pieces and remove the pins. Now pin the fabric strips all the way around the edge of the inner circle. If your layered skirt is much larger than your inner skirt waist, use the basting stitches to gather it all in to the same size. By huge coincidence, my over-skirt was exactly the same size as the inner waist hole. To make the waist band, cut 2 strips of ribbon the same size at the waist, with an extra couple of centimetres for folding over. Stitch them together along one of the long edges to form the front and back of the waist band. With the wrong sides together, fold along the seam and press the seam along the right side. With the right sides together, pin the waist band into place, folding over the ends. Stitch the waist band into place. Fold the waistband over to its correct position and pin into place. Stitch the inside of the waistband into place by stitching as close as possible to the bottom edge of the front waistband. Finally, using a safety pin, thread some elastic all the way through the inside of the waistband, try it on and knot the elastic at the point where it fits comfortable but snuggly. There you have one swirly, cascading, floaty skirt, that any 6-year-old girl would love! If you enjoyed this, you might enjoy this:- World Book Day - Lulus spotty bow Up House pom pom mobile World Book Day - cuddly costume props ---------- Please be sweet and share the love. Leave a comment, subscribe to my YouTube channel, like my Facebook page for regular updates or follow me on Pinterest, Bloglovin' or Instagram
Needle felting artist Teresa Perleberg shares some of her needle felting secrets that she has learned over the years felting everyday.
I promised that I would post a photo tutorial and show how I use my Merino Wool Blends to felt a scarf. This is a fun, easy and fast project. Almost instant gratification. What I like about working…
Its so frustrating when you discover a much loved sweater has moth holes - here's my current choice for repairing moth holes in sweaters..
Christmas and New Year are coming and as you might know, the symbol of the upcoming 2018 is a yellow dog. As a kid I loved getting thematic toys as gifts and so my niece does now. My presents are usually handmade so I’ve looked for cute items and found these sweet animals.
As a preface, this blog post has been several months in the making and is one of my longer blog posts. I talk about my experiments, mistakes and learning process in perfecting my technique for spinning chiengora. If you’re just a little bit curious about how to spin dog hair, I've made a short video that summarises my final, start to finish process for spinning dog hair here - If you’d like to learn more, read on... Spinning Chiengora As a spinner, I love trying out new or unusual fibres, and one fibre I've been very intrigued by is dog hair or chiengora (so-called because of its similarity in appearance and texture to angora). There are usually one of three reactions when someone mentions spinning dog hair. People are either repulsed at the thought of wearing something that might smell of wet dog, they just think it’s extremely weird, or they love the idea of having a memento that is made purely out of the fur of their beloved pet. Spinning dog hair is certainly not a recent fad. Items dating back to pre-historic Scandinavia were found to be made from dog hair, and dogs were the main providers of protein fibres to the Native American Navajos before sheep were introduced to the continent. The best dogs for providing fibre for spinning are long-haired, double-coated dogs that have definite shedding phases, when they primarily shed their undercoat. Anyone that has ever owned a double-coated dog knows that underneath the stiff, wiry guard hairs, lie much softer, finer, downy undercoat hairs. It's these finer, hidden hairs that are just perfect for spinning into a luxurious yarn. If you had the dog, the opportunity and the skill, why would you not turn the shed hair into an extremely warm, luxurious yarn, instead of throwing it away? Popular dogs for spinning into yarn are:- Samoyed Siberian Husky Alaskan Malamute Great Pyrenees German Shepherd Dog Norwegian Elkhound Newfoundland Chow chow Old English Sheepdog Bernese Mountain Dog Golden Retriever Collie This is actually my second attempt at writing a blog post about my experience spinning dog hair, but my original post started to turn into more of a - how not to harvest dog hair - that I decided to wait until an opportunity to spin a better source of chiengora fibre arose. If you're looking to spin your own dog's hair, I would highly recommend taking a look at a forum on Ravelry called - "Spinning Dog Fiber - aka Spinnin' Chien." I picked up a lot of tips on fibre preparation there and a lot of the information I'm sharing here came from the extremely helpful forum members there. Tips for harvesting and storing dog hair Dog hair for spinning should always come from brushings rather than clippings. Ideally, you just want to spin the finer undercoat, so clippings will always contain a lot more guard hairs. Cut ends can also add to the prickly nature of the yarn. If your dog sheds once or twice a year then the best undercoat fibres are brushed out at the beginning of the shedding, as fewer guard hairs are dropped at this stage. Don't be afraid to be selective about which brushings you keep and which you discard. It's much better to have a small amount of luxurious yarn than a large amount of mediocre, itchy yarn. Unfortunately, I don't have a dog myself, but many double-coated dog owners tell me that you get varying qualities of hair from different parts of the dog. Like a sheep or alpaca, you get much softer, finer hair from the back, neck and sides. The legs, tail and stomach yield shorter or coarser hair and so it's better to discard these hairs if you want a more luxurious, wearable yarn. Storing the fibres well is crucial. Make sure that whatever you keep the hair in is breathable - like a paper bag, cardboard box or old pillowcase. Try not to pack it in too tightly as this will increase the risk of it all matting together. --- My first (disappointing) attempt at spinning dog hair Five years ago, we were at a friends' house and I was admiring their pet cockapoo. I flippantly said that I would love to spin its fur - knowing nothing about spinning dog hair at the time. Well, a year later they confessed that they'd been saving all of their dog's hair - in the hope that I would spin some cockapoo yarn for their 13-year-old daughter to knit with. Cockapoo image from Wikipedia Bless them, they'd been diligently putting all the hair into little black dog-poo-bags and knotting them tightly when they were full. They'd tried to get as much as possible into the plastic bags to save space, so the hair was really well packed in. Having read a lot more about spinning dog hair since, I now know that keeping dog hair packed into a plastic bag for long periods of time is really not ideal as the hair can sweat and start to matt over time. Trust me, unwashed-year-old dog hair, kept in a plastic bag is particularly smelly! I also don't think that a cockapoo is the ideal dog for spinning. It's a cross between a cocker spaniel and a poodle and any dog crossed with a poodle is quite likely to be low shedding and single coated, so I was really not off to a good start. Well, I washed it, carded it and spun a knittable yarn, but it was quite clear that any yarn I produced was definitely going to be too itchy to wear. It was just too full of guard hairs and clipped ends that it felt more like string than yarn. I spun enough for our friends' daughter to knit a Christmas stocking for their dog and then disposed of the remaining dog hair as quickly as possible... --- My experience spinning Malamute Last year, a local lady posted on Ravelry, asking if anyone would be willing to spin some long-haired malamute fibre for her. After my failed attempt a few years ago, I really wanted to redeem myself, so I offered to spin a hundred grams or so for her - purely as a learning experience and to add a little variety to my own yarn stash. I told her to save just the brushings and to keep it stored in a breathable container. I now know that I should have also asked her to be a bit more selective about the fibres that she saved - but that was another lesson I learned! Well, she turned up at my door with two pillowcases full of soft, malamute hair. There were probably 500 grams in there - all from one season's shedding! As you can see, there is a real mixture of fibres in there. Just touching it, I could feel that it was so much softer than the cockapoo hair I'd spun previously, but at first glance you can see that there are also a lot of guard hairs in there. Underhairs come in a variety of shades and they're frequently a slightly different shade to the protective guard hairs. At first glance, it looked like these malamute guard hairs were mostly black, or white with black tips. I later learned that there were also a lot of white guard hairs in there as well. Sorting and washing the Malamute fibre I spent a couple of days sorting the dog fibres. I pulled out the darkest sections as these contained the most guard hairs. I also removed the shorter, coarser hairs, and sections that were overly matted or full of dander as these were not going to be pleasant to spin. I must admit to being quite ruthless, but I quickly learned (from colour, appearance and texture) which fibres were going to be the softest. I'm sure if I was a dog owner as well as a spinner, this process would be much easier as the fibres would be more efficiently sorted at the grooming stage. I also now know that it would be much better to save just the softer hairs from the first brushings - when the dog first begins to shed - as these contain fewer guard hairs. The malamute that donated the hair must have been very well looked after, as the hair was quite clean and smelled only slightly 'doggy'. I decided, however, to wash it anyway. Opening up the fibres as I went, I placed the lighter sections of fibre in a large delicates laundry bag, ready to be soaked. I was intrigued to see how well 'Soak', my favourite wool and delicates washing liquid, would clean the malamute fibres. Soak isn't necessarily recommended for washing pre-spun fibres, but I wanted to minimise agitation of the malamute - which could cause felting, so I thought it was worth a try. I made this animated gif to show just how much dirt came out of what I thought was pretty clean dog hair after three. thirty minute soaks and one rinse. This is the wet malamute fibres after they've been for a gentle spin in my washing machine at 400rpm for 15 minutes to remove a lot of the excess water. I love how you can see the bright whites and soft beiges more clearly now in the underhair. It's winter here in the UK and so I hung my bag of wet malamute fibres on a radiator, periodically checking it and fluffing the fibres out. It took about two days to completely dry. It hadn't been particularly dirty to start with, but now there wasn't the remotest smell of dogginess. A quite serendipitous thing happened too. As the underhairs are so fine and smooth, they became statically charged as they became dryer and dryer. I noticed that the very thickest guard hairs had started to fall out of the laundry bag of their own accord. These are just a few that I picked up off the bathroom floor. You can see here that there are a lot more white guard hairs in there than I anticipated. Shaking the bag repeatedly encouraged a lot more of the thicker guard hairs to either fall out of the laundry bag or just poke out, allowing me to remove them with a sticky lint roller. These are all of the sticky roller sheets I used on the outside of the laundry bag. Removing even more guard hairs When I first started reading the Spinnin' Chien forum, one member described a process of removing the guard hairs by placing the dog hair in a delicates laundry bag and putting them in the dryer with some pieces of foam and fleece. Initially, I thought this sounded quite risky and possibly fool-hardy, but as I could still see quite a lot of guard hairs amongst the fine downy malamute fibres I decided to take the risk. I keep guinea pigs, so I have a couple of densely woven laundry bags designed for washing guinea pig fleeces in to stop the hay and hair from clogging the washing machine. I put my delicates bag full of malamute fibres in my pet laundry bag and stuffed it full of foam offcuts. I zipped it up, crossed my fingers and put it in my dryer for 30 minutes on a gentle heat cycle. This is what the inside of the pet hair bag looked like when I removed it from the dryer. The inside, the foam pieces, and the delicates bag were all covered in guard hairs! I spent a good hour or so with my sticky roller, removing the guard hairs from the inside of the pet bag, the foam pieces and the outside of the delicates laundry bag. Thankfully the malamute fibres hadn't felted in the dryer and I had the softest mound of malamute fibres with just a few finer guard hairs left in. Unfortunately, at this stage it was very difficult to handle as it was so full of static charge that it wanted to cling to everything in sight! A quick spritz over the surface and then a gentle mixing with detangling spray dissipated the static charge straight away. It also made the fibres smell lovely! Spinning Malamute A lot of spinners of chiengora insist that the dog hairs need to be at least 1 and a half inches long. Most dog hair doesn't have the same crimp as wool, it's also slippier and so the shorter fibres have a tendency to shed from the yarn. It's not unusual for chiengora spinners to blend the dog hair with wool or alpaca to make it easier to spin, with less shedding, but the purist in me wanted to spin 100% malamute. Looking through my malamute fibres, I noticed a wide range of staple lengths and textures. Some were as long as three and a half inches, but most of them were between one and a half and two and a half inches. I knew that I was going to have to spin a much tighter yarn than I was used to, to ensure that the fibres held together well. In my first attempt at spinning malamute, I tried to hand-card the hair. Unfortunately the shorter, fluffier fibres rolled themselves into little neps, I eventually gave up on carding the dog hair and just fluffed it up and spun it from the cloud. A cloud of malamute fibre After consulting the members of the Spinnin' Chien forum, I was advised that my wool carders really weren't suitable for dog hair, and experienced chiengora spinners use cotton carders that have much finer, more densely spaced teeth. This was the first malamute yarn I spun. It's a 2ply, spun from the cloud. I was relatively pleased with it, but you can see that there are an awful lot of slubs in there, and as it's spun from the cloud, it's quite untidy and very much a woolen-spun yarn. I use an e-spinner, which doesn't really lend itself well to the stop-start and varying speeds required when spinning from the cloud, so next, I decided to attempt a more worsted-style fibre preparation. I wasn't about to invest in expensive equipment for what may be a one-off project, so I decided to try and build my own simple hackle out of inexpensive dog combs and a table clamp that I've had for decades. I managed to find three of these combination dog combs at Pets at Home. They were half price at £4.75 each. They have two densities of tines and the more closely spaced teeth are perfect for preparing my fine malamute fibres. I taped them together with double-sided sticky tape and then clamped them in my tabletop clamp with the finer teeth sticking out. I made a little 2 minute video to show my technique for aligning my malamute fibres to make a kind of lightweight top. Basically, I teased and opened up the malamute fibres, drafting them open with my right hand and then lowering them onto the dog combs with the more open fibres to the right of the teeth. Once my dog comb was half full, I carefully drafted out the fibres into a top, discarding the shortest and most knotted fibres that remained on the comb at the end. I then halved the length of fibres a couple of times so that I had a mix of long and short fibres on top of each other and then I drafted the four lengths into one length of fibres. Here are my sweet little nests of malamute fibre that are so much easier to spin on my Hansen Minispinner as they require far less effort to spin at a constant speed. There are still quite a few little neps in there, but you can see the fibres are now much more aligned. Spinning my prepared malamute fibre was so far more relaxing after it had been drafted out. I spun a high twist, fine single with the intention of chain plying it later. Please take a look at my video on pre-chain plying singles - Before plying I left my singles to rest for several days for the twist to relax a little so that it was easier to manage. Here are the first two malamute yarns that I spun. The top one is the very first yarn that I spun. It's a two-ply and was spun from the cloud. The bottom one is chain plied and was spun from drafted, combed fibres, prepared on my home made hackle. I love how much more definition the lower one has and I'm sure it would be much more comfortable to wear, having fewer guard hairs and less of a halo. I did actually spin a third yarn (the first in this picture) where I pulled out every guard hair by hand, but that was just too ridiculously labour intensive. I would not recommend it! As a thank you to the dog owner that provided me with the malamute hair, I knitted these little hearts that she could keep as a memento - along with enough yarn for her to knit herself some wrist-warmers or a hat. I've still got a lot of malamute left to spin for myself - maybe I'll try dyeing some next year. Chiengora is 80% warmer than sheep's wool so it'll be perfect for next winter's accessories! This blog post contains Amazon affiliate links to similar products that I purchased myself to prepare and spin the chiengora yarn. If you click through and purchase anything, I may receive a very small percentage of the purchase price. At this point, I normally suggest similar related blog posts, however, my list of spinning-related content is becoming a little unmanageable... If you'd like to read more blog posts about spinning and fibre preparation, please take a look at this page here where you will find links to all of my spinning and fibre articles. Thank you for reading, and happy spinning! If you enjoyed this, you might like to take a look at some of my other spinning-related blog posts - 9 Different Ways of Spinning a Multicoloured Blend While Trying to Avoid 'Spinning Mud' Spinning into Focus Chain-Plying at the Wheel Versus Making a Chain-Plied Ball Blending and Spinning a Rainbow Yarn 2 Ways How to Measure Handspun Yarn Using an App Free Handspun Yarn Labels DIY Hackle DIY Mini Wool Combs 3D Printed Modular Lazy Kate Yarn gauge reference tool for hand spinners Testing the Electric Eel Wheel Yarn Counter Prototype Hackle Blending a Long Gradient Linear Blending a Gradient Spinning Supercoil Yarn Using Waste Fibres Unbiased Review of the Daedalus Sparrow Testing the LWS Autowinder for the Electric Eel Wheel 6 ---------- Please be sweet and share the love. Leave a comment, subscribe to my YouTube channel, like my Facebook page for regular updates or follow me on Pinterest, Bloglovin' or Instagram
Obviously I couldn't wait to try the technique myself... so here's how to weave pibiones (the word, in Sardinian dialect, means grape) Warp and weft are the same, while the extra weft is thicker. I think I like best the monochrome version, where the design resulting from the contrast between plain weave and the little grapes is not so obvious. The diameter of the stick goes according to the thickness of the weft - just like knitting. Normally the stick is made of metal, but at that moment I only had a wooden needle available! Step 1 :: according to your design, count the warp threads and wrap the extra weft on the stick. This is a bit tricky, as the tension of the extra weft on the stick has to be even in order to get pibiones of the same size, but it only takes a bit of practice. Step 2 :: once you finish a row, secure it with a pick of plain weave (here traditionally there would be 3 picks of plain weave between one row and the other). Leave the needle in place. Step 3 :: remove the needle and get ready for another row, following your design!
Weaving Landscapes (or just curves) This is something I posted to Ravelry, at the request of a mod who had seen some of the Work In Progess (WIP) pictures. Process post! Someone suggested I do one …
How to Felt Wool - Nuno Felting Method is Part 3 of my Wet Felting Technique Series. Basic Wool Felting, Cobweb Felting and Lattice Felting
In this guide, I cover how to finish your felted edges, during the wet felting process. I also provide tips on how to prevent uneven edges that have become wonky or wavy, and 8 ways to fix them if they do occur.
Snabbstickad muggvärmare med mönster i rött och vitt och mjuka pulsvärmare för handlederna. Stickbeskrivningarna hittar du här.
Hello! This tutorial has been updated (as of April 2013) Please click here for the new version *************************************************************** This tutorial will show you how to make a 3D felted pod using a resist. A resist is usually a piece of...
It is easy to limit your record keeping to numbers. But it is when you keep physical records – samples and swatches – that the real fun begins.
Learn to Needle Felt a Picture – Super Easy Tutorial! #Learn to paint with wool with this detailed needle felted picture tutorial suitable for beginners onward and featuring my favourite Herdwick sheep.
Rain Wilds takes its name from the literary fantasy series The Rain Wilds Chronicles by Robin Hobb. It’s a magical place fed by a dangerous river and an abundance of trees big and strong enough to hold a civilization. The top is a loose and comfortable garment with lace that reassembles streams and
We made it! This is the last pattern in our Sea Creature Keychain Collection, Scuttles the Crab! You can check…
By Jamie Marie Chan After I watched Becky Stern's Ask Craft video about plying yarns, I was inspired to try plying some of my scrap commercial yarns
ROVING OR COMBED TOP Is there really a difference? Yes, there is a distinct difference between roving and combed top. Let me break it down...
Scouring Wool correctly without felting it. Step by step instructions for how to scour or wash raw wool and other animal fiber
I recently purchased some wonderful Gotland locks from Zara (Tuulikki Rooke) in Sweden. I know that quite a few others from the forum purchased some as well. But it seems everyone is holding back f…
Andrew Salomone used my electronic knitting machine to make this identity-preserving balaclava: The balaclava is knit from cotton yarn and the design is
