Features: 1.Effortless Knitting: Improve your knitting experience with our pendulum yarn holder, equipped with a smooth spinning top that boasts of magnetic design for seamless stitching. 2.Excellent Design: Our magnetic yarn holder is made of high-grade solid wood with a smooth and shiny surfaces. It's stable, durable, and features a finely polished and spray-painted finish that's resistant to damage. 3.Easy Installation: Our wooden magnetic yarn holder simplifies spool management, making your crafting experience more efficient than ever before. With easy installation, removal, and hangings, you'll have it up and running in minutes- perfect for any knitting project. 4.Widely Used: Embrace the art of knitting with our magnetic yarn holder, a best assistant for crocheting or embroidering, ensuring your artistic creation thrives in tidy harmony. 5.Funny Gifts: Our magnetic yarn holder, a practical solution for knitting enthusiasts, ensures easy access and organization of your yarn stash. A cute and practical gift option for knitting lovers, including mothers, daughters, and grandmothers. Our Spinning Yarn Holder is the perfect accessory for any knitting lover. Made with excellent quality materials, this magnetic yarn holder spins very smoothly and keeps your yarn spool knot-free. Whether you're a beginner or a pro, this spinning yarn holder is a must-have in your knitting kit! Name: Magnetic Yarn Ball Holder Material: wood Style 1 and style 2 Product weight: 300g Packaging weight: 500g Style 3 and style 4 Product weight: 300g Packaging weight: 410g Style 5 and style 6 Product weight:600g Packaging weight: 690g

SPINNING TOP BLANKET CAL PATTERN: PART 1: CENTRE CIRCLE PATTERN 5mm hook Aran 4mm hook dk US Terms, UK Terms in brackets COLOURS FOR FIRST 2 CENTRES OPTION 1: Part 1 Centre motif: cloud blue pistachio sage parchment rose spice saffron denim duck egg OPTION 2: Part 1 Centre motif spice saffron pomegranate rose parchment denim cloud blue pistachio gold This will be the final update on colours until next week, giving you all some time to get to the stage of joining the motifs you have made up to round 9 and plus the diamond shaped infills. SPINNING TOP BLANKET MADE FROM THE CUSHION CAL PATTERN Make 4 or 9 Motifs approx. 16" each Stylecraft Aran and Alpaca tweed dk 5mm hook Can be made in DK, but would be smaller Basically you will have 5 that finish with one of the blue/green shades and 4 that finish with the yellow/red shade placed like this COLOURS SEQUENCE FOR 9 MOTIFS TO ROUND 9 1: pistachio, sage, cloud blue, storm blue, pistachio, camel, raspberry, spice, pomegranate. 2: sage, pistachio, parchment, denim, camel, spice, duck egg, rose, gold. 3: duck egg, denim, pistachio, gold, saffron, sage, spice, rose, raspberry. 4: denim, parchment, rose, raspberry, spice, saffron, storm blue, cloud blue, pistachio. 5: rose, pomegranate, spice, pistachio, sage, sea breeze, camel, duck egg, denim. 6: pomegranate, rose, gold, sage, cloud blue, denim, saffron, pistachio, sage. 7: spice, saffron, duck egg, parchment, rose, raspberry, pomegranate, storm blue, sea breeze. 8: saffron, spice, raspberry, rose, parchment, pistachio, cloud blue, denim, cloud blue. 9: camel, storm blue, saffron, spice, pomegranate, gold, rose, camel, saffron. DIAMOND/SPEAR INFILLS If you are keeping up with me and want to keep going them the first colour round of the Diamonds is First circle round 8 Centre circles each of SAFFRON CAMEL GOLD ROSE SPICE POMEGRANATE SAGE DENIM CLOUD BLUE. That is 2 of each colour on each of the 9 centre motifs + 18 for each one PATTERN: finger wrap of 5 wraps Round 1: 12 sc [12dc] into circle (12sts) Round 2: cluster of 2dc [2tr], into each st with ch1 between (12 clusters) Round 3: 3tr [3dtr], into each ch1 sp, (36sts) Round 4: sc [dc], in 2nd and 3rd sts, of group of 3sts, sc [dc] spike st into clusters of round 2. (36sts) Round 5: sc in first st, in any st, bobble st of 3tr [3dtr], in ext st, ch1, sc [dc], in next st repeat to end. (18bobbles, 18sc [dc]) PICTORIAL HOW TO DO BOBBLE ST. att yarn in frost st half make 3tr [3dtr] drawn together with last part of st ch1 sc into next st repeat creating 18 bobble sts, and 18 sc [dc] between Round 6: granny shells of 3dc [3tr] into sc sts, between bobbles (54sts) Round 7: single 'v' st, tr [dtr], ch2, tr [dtr], into sp, between granny shells, repeat. (18 'v' sts) Round 8: double 'v' st, 2tr [2dtr], ch2, 2tr [2dtr], into ch2 sp, repeat (18 double 'v' sts) Round 9: 3dc, [3tr], ch2, 3dc [3tr], into ch2 sp, sc [dc] into sp between double 'v's (18 shell sts). PART 2: Part 2 OPTION 1: Diamond/spear infill spice/rose sage/pistachio sea breeze/saffron pistachio/raspberry parchment/sage saffron spice gold/pomegranate raspberry/denim pomegranate/gold repeat a second time Part 2 OPTION 2: Diamond/spear in fill rose/sage denim/pistachio spice/denim gold/sea breeze saffron/rose pistachio/spice sage/ pomegranate raspberry/camel parchment/saffron repeat a second time DIAMOND/SPEAR SHAPE INFIL TIP: Can i suggest beginners do one with out the join as you go to get the feel of the pattern before trying to join it, but if you feel able to go ahead and join as you go with the first then have fun PATTERN A finger wrap of 5 or 6 wraps ROUND 1: 12sc, [12dc], into the circle ROUND 2: Starting at the outer point, ch6, counts as first tr [dtr] and ch3 point, 1tr [1dtr] into the first st, 1dc [1tr], into the next 3 sts, dc [tr], ch3, dc [tr], into the next st, (side point), 1dc [1tr] into the next st, 1dc [1tr], ch3 1dc [1tr], into the next st (bottom point) 1dc [1tr] in the next st, 1dc [1tr], ch3, 1dc [1tr], into next st, (second side point), complete with 1dc [1tr], in next 3 sts, sl st into the ch 6 loop, to complete NOTE: Use the second ch st on each point to join the diamond/spear to the dip and points of the shells of round 9 of part 1. PART 3: INFILL TRIANGLE...IN ONE COLOUR NOTES: another really simple 2 round motif, join as you go into the point of the diamond/spear shape and the points of the shell stitch. Again try before doing the join as you go for beginners. COLOUR NOTE: THIS TRIANGLE MOTIF SHOULD BE IN ONE COLOUR ONLY so that the 'petals' of part 2 stand out, not as the multi coloured how to pictures look The usual finger wrap of 6wraps ROUND 1: 12sc [12dc], into circle ROUND 2: ch6, 1tr [1dtr], into same st, 1dc [1r], into next 3 sts, 1tr [1dtr], ch3, 1tr [1dtr], into next st, 1dc [1tr], into next 3 sts, 1tr [1dtr], ch3, 1tr [1dtr], into next st, finish with 1 dc [1tr], into last 3 sts, sl st into ch6 loop. JOINING NOTE: replace the middle ch st with a sl st to join to the cushion, so for the first point... ch4 , replace the 5th ch with a sl st, to join, then ch1, 1tr to complete first corner. The triangle sits between each diamond/spear shape of part 2. sl st into the ch3 point of the diamond and the point of the shell st and the second point of the diamond All the triangles of each centre circle in one colour but on each block a different colour Made in Aran it should be at least 16" 40.5cm across PART 4: TURNING THE CENTRE CIRCLE INTO A SQUARE CIRCLE TO SQUARE: Blocked its approx 15-16" square ADDING CORNERS You now have the correct number of sts to divide the circles into 4 sections 4 x 36sts, using stitch markers. 4 colours requires for each circle, each corner in a different colour Add a 4 round granny shell corner to the 4 corner of each circle. You will use 25sts, of the 36sts. Leaving 11sts, unused EACH SIDE. NOTES: These corners are like making the start of a Granny Shell Shawl, you need the ch1 between the granny shells for ease, because it is to go around the curve of the circle. And you need to do a longer st as the first st for each granny shell next to the circle, again for ease, (thats just the first st not the complete granny shell). PREPARING CENTRE CIRCLE FOR CORNERS ROW 1: att yarn in ch3 sp of the first diamond, hdc [htr], in the next 5sts, hdc [htr], in the next 3 sps, (that's the ch3 sp of the triangle), the next ch3 sp, (the diamond) and the ch3 sp of the next triangle making 8sts for each pair of diamond and triangle. repeat hdc [htr], in next 5 sts, and the next 3 x ch3 sps, to the end, sl st to complete. (144sts) Starting at the marker Row 1: att. yarn 3sts from marker, miss 2sts, 1tr [1dtr], 2dc, [2tr], ch2, 2dc [2tr], 1tr [1dtr], in marked st, miss 2sts, sl st into next st, ch3, miss 2sts, sl st into next st, along, turn. (2 granny shells) Row 2: 2dc [2tr], into the sp, between circle and tr, [dtr] of round 1, ch1, 3dc [3tr], ch2, 3dc [3tr], into the next ch2 sp, (point of triangle), ch1, 2dc [2tr], 1tr [1dtr] into the last sp (between the last granny shell and the circle), miss 2sts, sl st into next st (7sts from the marker), ch3, miss 2sts, sl st into next st, along, turn. (4 granny shells) Row 3: 2dc [2tr] into first sp, between circle and granny shell or row below, ch1, 3dc [3tr], into next ch1 sp, ch1, 3dc [3tr], ch2, 3dc [3tr] into next ch2 sp (point of triangle), ch1, 3dc [3tr] into next ch1 sp, ch1, 2dc [2tr], 1tr [1dtr], into last sp, (between circle and granny triangle), miss 2sts, sl st into next st, (10th st, from marker) ch3, miss 2sts, sl st into next st, turn.(6 granny shells) Row 4: Repeat row 3, with the extra side granny shell sl st to complete, cut and weave in ends (8 granny shells) Repeat for each corner all in a different colour Marked st is number 1, so you should finish on the 13th st from the marker each side Leaving 11sts unused on each side PART 5: FINAL JOINING ROUNDS 3 ROUNDS OF GRANNY SHELLS NOTE: Don't forget to do ch1, between each granny shell for ease or it will be too tight and pull up, and 3 ch at each corner. NOTES FOR ADDING GRANNY SHELLS ROUND 1: 4 granny shells on each side of the triangle and 11 sts that will allow 13 granny shells on each side. one in each of the triangle sps, = 4, one granny shell in the space between the granny shell and the circle not into a stitch. 3 in the 11side sts. = 13granny shells on each side ROUND 1: all different colours, 3dc,[3tr], ch3, 3dc, [3tr], in each corner sp, 3dc [3tr], in each 11 side sps, ch1 between each granny shell, sl st to complete. [13 granny shells each side] ROUND 2: all in parchment colour, 3dc, ch3 3dc in corners and 3dc in each of the 12 sps, ch1 between all granny shells sl st, to complete. [14 granny shells each side) ROUND 3: all in blue joining colour, Join as you go round using a sl st after each granny shell to join the squares together, 3dc, ch3, 3dc, in corners, 3dc, in each of the 13sps, ch1 between each granny shell, sl st to complete [15 granny shells each side] FIGURES ABOUT THE YARN USAGE FROM A YARN PACK Some figures to help with your yarn usage: circle up to triangle in fills..........approx. 95g with triangle corners added........approx. 130g with one round of gs added........approx. 145g with two rounds of gs added.......approx. 162g x by the number of blocks you make will give you an idea so far of the yarn usage from an Aran pack with the smaller blanket you could add a couple more gs rounds to each block before joining them together if you wanted. Still a final border stitch to add yet so a 4 BLOCK blanket will use approx. 656g plus say 200g for border leaves enough to make a cushion or two A 9 BLOCK blanket will use approx. 1458g and leave just enough for a small finishing border 4 done, 5 to go....for a 9 block blanket Blocks of 4 or 9 Aran weight or even 12 DK can be joined together to make a fabulous #spinning top blanket Love all the different colours but the top one is my favourite of them all i think... YARN PACK NOTS: 4 Blocks for small blanket and a couple of cushion If using the Yarn pack this is the size blanket you will need to make if you want to make a cushion out of the pack too. The Yarn pack will only make the large 9 block blanket with no cushion each block weighs 155g Having agreed to do probably a little more than I could manage this month, the Spinning Top Blanket, hasn't been completed as quickly as i had hoped..... I now have 6 blocks together and think that 6 blocks would also makes a fabulous blanket too, so now we have 4, 6, 9 or 12 blocks as options for a blanket, all with different uses. BUT WHAT SIZE BLANKET TO MAKE? I don't have a place in the house specifically for this blanket so nothing to guide me... OPTIONS: 4 Blocks: is a gorgeous baby blanket or lap blanket for your knees in a car 6 Blocks: is big enough to wrap around your shoulders or go on the bottom of a single bed or as a sofa throw 8 Blocks: would also make a fabulous wrap blanket or bed runner for the bottom of a double or king size bed. 9 Blocks: would make a big blanket that sat diagonally makes a fab cover for a double/king size bed 12 Blocks: would make a giant of a blanket for a King size bed...although the yarn pack would NOT make this size. My Dilema is to decide which size i actually make...I had thought maybe i would stop at a 6 blocks get it finished and add the border for you all to see and use the other 3 blocks i have part made for a couple of square cushions so that i have a circular cushion 2 square cushions and a throw...... But looking at it wrapped around me i'm thinking the big 9 block blanket is still the one i really would like to complete Using 3 or 4 rows of granny shells to finish each square, the final border rounds will be a simple dc [tr] border in the same colour as the last join as you go round for each square PART 6: FINAL BORDER SPINNING TOP BLANKET BORDER Finally i managed to complete the Spinning Top Blanket... it kept me warm and the boys loved sitting on it and me while i added the last block It's a beastie of a blanket at over 5' square and weighs a ton....a real snuggler. if I had more of the blue i would have added more rounds but no more to be found in my workroom at all...so one round added to the blue granny shells and it finished nothing fancy just wanted the riot of colours contained So in the end the i decided that a real simple border of dc [tr], something to contain all this spinning tops and colours was all i needed for my version, plus i was running out of yarns as i didn't use a yarn pack for mine. If you have a yarn pack and are making the spinning top then any favourite colour you have enough of would work as a simple border to the Blanket...there is a lot going on in this design so it doesn't need anything to fussy to complete it..a wider border in the same colour would be perfect. BORDER PATTERN US terms and UK terms in brackets Aran 5mm hook DK 4mm hook After joining 9 or 12 blocks together a simple round or two of dc [tr], I felt was all that was needed...do more than one if you have enough of your chosen colour but one is perfect. FINAL ROUND CORNERS: 2dc [2tr], ch2, 2dc [2tr], 1dc [1tr], in every st, and every ch sp too, on each side, so per granny shell and sp you should do 4 sts. 1dc ]1tr], in the ch sp, 1dc [1tr], in the sp between the joined blocks thats 2 joined each side If you have done a smaller blanket then do several rows of the same favourite colour from the blanket, all thats needed with a buy blanket like the Spinning top...or have fun and make up your own border Some of the fabulous Spinning Top Blankets that have already been made or are well on their way to completion from group members on Facebook... Sue Pinner's Granny Squares: Blankets, throws, cushions and wraps GROUP HERE All these wonderful hookers and more can be found enjoying my patterns and sharing their makes..its a growing group of over 10,000 members now several more on the Facebook group to see in all their glory Love them all and sorry it took me so long to complete mine. Several options for fabulous borders for you to have a go at and get creative with your own. And mine draped over a chair

Zoe Tee from Stacy Charles Fine Yarns is a simple women’s A-line pullover knit in Amelia, a subtly multicolored yarn with a stunning texture that will make your garments stand out. The sweater is a cozy yet lightweight tee you’ll love wearing season after season. Zoe is knit in the round from the bottom up to the armholes, then divided. The sleeves are worked in the round to the armholes, and the rest are worked flat and then seamed. The neck edging is crocheted in the round. The Twisted Barred rib pattern is in written form only. Skill Level: Easy Sizes: S (M, L, XL, 2X, 3X) Finished Measurements: With suggested 0–2” positive ease      Bust – 34¼ (38, 42¼, 46, 50¼, 54)”     Length – 25½ (26, 26½, 27, 27½, 28)” Yarn Requirements: 7 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) balls Stacy Charles Fine Yarns Amelia (40% Silk/ 30% Linen/ 30% Cotton; 50g/137yds) shown in 12 Summer Sun Needles: US 6 (4.00mm) 32” circular and DPNs to get gauge Hooks: US G/6 (4.00mm) Gauge:     21 sts and 30 rows = 4” in stockinette stitch     27 sts and 30 rows = 4” in Twisted Barred rib pattern

SKEINS: 4 skeins of Season Alpaca SIZE: 12 ½ inches x 72 inches long COLOR: Dove Gray

Yarn Notes The Brand 30 beautifully illustrated patterns for 1, 2 or 3 skeins of Noro Yarn. This book is perfect for a first foray into the world of Noro, or for stashbusting!  Patterns include hats, bags, cowls, shawlettes, shrugs, toys, and even a lacy cardigan and empire-waist top. 144 pages, Hardback. "I have come to believe that these yarns are as close to art as we have in the industry. The man behind them is an artist himself, and these yarns are an expression of his spirit rather than just a commercial product." Cornelia Tuttle Hamilton The World of Nature In recent years, the yarn industry has been actively promoting awareness of ecological sustainability, but this concept has been part of the Noro philosophy from the very beginning. The preservation of nature is such an important concept of his business that Mr Noro leaves nothing to chance, personally overseeing every aspect of production from sheep to yarn ball, including all machinery, labelling, yarn bags, boxes and even the garbage that the company produces. All the animal fibres used in Noro yarns are Organic. Most of the wool comes from a special breed of sheep called Polwarth, raised especially for Noro on a non-mulesing farm in Australia. Other fibres from from the Falkland Islands and South Africa, from Organic Farms. The Production Process "Friction, rubbing and heat during processing weaken the fibres in direct proportion to the length of time they are processed. By dramatically shortening this process, we are preventing damage to the enzymes in the fibres and simultaneously profiting the environment." Mr Eisaku Noro Environmental considerations are at the forefront of the dyeing process, with each step being carefully controlled. The natural fibres are dyed using a pH balance that is compatible with the fibres. Noro's modifications to the blowing, carding and spinning processes reap a total energy savings of 46% as compared to typical yarn industry standards. The unique manufacturing process that results in the exceptional colourways and textures have always been closely guarded secret in Japan. Brand Concept Harmonise natural unevenness, asymmetric pattern and complex colour to portray the beauty of the nature. Taking sufficient time to dye yarn Tenderness of materials to preserve their original characters and deliver them into the hands of the crafter “BE FREE FROM EXISTING CONCEPTS AND LIMITATIONS” “PURSUE THE IMAGE IN OUR MINDS” Noro yarns have longer spans of colour in the runs than many other yarns, causing distinctive striping patterns, as well as being spun by hand versus being produced completely by machines. There have been plenty of attempts to imitate the magic of Noro, but in the world of self-striping yarn, nothing compares with Noro.

Whee! I love this one. This is fractally spun. I split the top of half lengthwise and spun half from the end onto one bobbin. Split the other half into fourths and spun each from the end, starting with the same end, onto a second bobbin, then plied the bobbins together. Fiber: Hello Yarn Falklands wool in Orchid Swamp Yarn: sport weight (14 wpi) 2 ply, 366 yards and 4 oz. I did that thing where, when I ran out of yarn on one bobbin, there were only about 8 inches of single on the other bobbin. I do a quiet fist pump/YESSSSS when this happens. This is for socks. Glorious, stripy socks of goodness.

SKEINS: 3 (3, 3, 3, 4) (4, 4, 5, 5) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill SIZES: 34 (37¼, 41¼, 45¼, 49¼) (53¼, 57¼, 61¼, 65¼) TO FIT: 28–32 (31–35, 35–39, 39–43, 43–47) (47–51, 51–55, 55–59, 59–63) -inch chest with 2–6 inches of ease COLOR: Mountain Bluebird

A week or so ago I posted about the self striping yarn that my daughter dyed and then I spun. I was so pleased with how our first attempt at dyeing turned out and I wanted to make a child's scarf so that my daughter could enjoy wearing something that she'd had a hand in making. My original intention was to knit it in linen stitch, which is perfect for scarves, as it forms a stable fabric that doesn't curl and it's pretty easy to remember, which makes it perfect for knitting hundreds of stitches without too much concentration. As a stitch on its own, it's relatively unimpressive, but it really comes into its own when it's worked in a self-striping yarn as the rows are dotted with strands of contrasting colour. However, when I started knitting a tension square in my handspun yarn, it just looked a bit too flat and I couldn't help thinking that the reverse side looked better as it had so much more texture. I just love how the purl stitches show off the handspun yarn and the texture creates shadows and contrast that bring out the colours far more, than on what is supposed to be the right side. I searched and searched for a 'reversible linen stitch' that had purl stitches on both sides, as well as the slipped stitches that carry the colour changes across the rows to get the woven, blended effect of linen stitch. Well if it exists, I couldn't find it, so I decided to work out my own stitch. It's often said that there are no new stitches, as knitting has been around for so long that it's just not possible to design a stitch that hasn't been done before - in fact, many, many years ago, when I was applying to universities to study knitwear design, I was naively showing a swatch of a stitch to my interviewer that I had proudly "invented"; the lecturer rather snootily told me that it's just not possible to invent a new stitch and that there is nothing new in hand knitting that hasn't been done before. So maybe I haven't invented this stitch, but here's my version of a reversible linen stitch, which I'm calling the "Bouclé Stitch" as the texture reminds me of fabric woven from bouclé yarn. My bouclé stitch is based on a moss stitch (US seed stitch) instead of stocking stitch and it's worked over 4 rows instead of 2, over an even number of stitches, as follows - Abbreviations: sl1 - slip 1 yb - yarn to the back, passed between the needles k1 - knit 1 yfwd - yarn to the front, passed between the needles p1 - purl 1 Boucle Stitch Pattern Row 1. *sl1, yb, k1, yfwd. Repeat from * to the end Row 2. * k1, yfwd, sl1, yb. Repeat from * to the end Row 3. *P1, yb, sl1, yfwd. Repeat from * to the end Row 4. *sl1, yfwd, p1, yb. Repeat from * to the end You may notice that the same alternate stitches are worked over two rows, you then switch over to work the remaining alternate stitches. There isn't really a right or wrong side, but if there is, this would be the front... ... and this would be the back. I've nearly finished the scarf and I'll be posting about it soon. So what so you think? Does this stitch already have a name? I'd love to know. Do you think it's really possible to "invent a new stitch", or has it all been done before? Related Posts:- ---------- Please be sweet and share the love. Leave a comment, subscribe to my YouTube channel, like my Facebook page for regular updates or follow me on Pinterest, Bloglovin' or Instagram

Top-down raglan-sleeved cardigan from this handspun yarn.

This round yoke pullover with 3/4 funnel sleeves, A-line shaped body and asymmetric hem line is worked top down in the round. The yoke, hem and cuffs are decorated with simple cables and slip stitch chains on the background of reverse stockinette stitch. Double knitted bands accentuate transitions between design elements throughout the garment. Since the yarn it is designed for is made from recycled wool and cotton, its improvised name tells a story of recycling practices in the wool industry. Terms “shoggy” and “mungo” refer to fabrics that were produced from reclaimed wool, cotton or linen. Mungo yarn from Retrosaria is a mix of wool and cotton, which is entirely spun from pre-consumer waste generated by Portuguese spinning mills. It has a rustic feel and look, and speaks to me as a way to support sustainable practices in the industry. You can take a closer look at my sample and discover the design process in this podcast episode. Sizes The pattern is written for nine sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9) to fit 74 (84, 94, 104, 114) (124, 134, 144, 154) cm // 29 (33, 37, 41, 45) (49, 53, 57, 61) in bust circumference with ca. 10 cm (4 in) of positive ease. The sample is shown in size 2 on a 160 cm (5.3 ft) tall model with ca. 84–66–94 cm (33–26–39 in) body measurements. For the finished garment measurements, please refer to the schematics provided. Yarn ca. 270 (300, 340, 380, 425) (460, 520, 550, 600) g of Mungo by Retrosaria, 50% wool and 50% cotton with 220 m (240 yds) in 100 g skein, shown in colourway 11; with an estimated yardage of ca. 594 (660, 748, 836, 935) (1012, 1144, 1210, 1320) m // 648 (720, 816, 912, 1020) (1104, 1248, 1320, 1440) yds. Or any other yarn(s) to match the gauge. Needles and notions A pair of 4.5 mm (US 7) and 3.5 mm (US 4) circular needles with ca. 60–100 cm (24–40 in) cables; spare cables or scrap yarn to keep stitches on hold; a few stitch markers with at least one of them removable; a crochet hook to bind off (any size close to the needle size, optional); a tapestry needle to weave in the ends (optional). Gauge 18 sts & 24 rows in 10 cm (4 in) measured over stockinette stitch worked in the round after blocking on 4.5 mm (US 7) needles. Adjust the needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. Video preview of the pattern

To Start on the 17th January a mini cal making a Cushion Cover Over the years i've made dozens of cushions, so before we start I'm going to share a couple of tips with you. TIPS: 1: Never make a cushi

I was going to put this up last Thursday but somehow it’s already Monday. Not quite sure how that happened! The nice part is it’s now perfectly timed so that you can cast on a fun thrummed project — I just released Cadeautje, the third pattern in the Knitworthy collection. Use a non-superwash wool that feels nice and

Beginner and advanced Spinners LOVE our wool top for Spinning! Longer staple length fibers spins effortlessly into beautiful yarn. You can use this natural white wool as is or dye it easily with any protein dye and even food coloring with vinegar! FAST FREE SHIPPING (USA only)- get started spinning this awesome wool faster!! 1 lb of Beautiful Domestic 56s Wool Top Roving Creamy White color (unbleached) and super soft. Simply Beautiful to look at and handle! Spin Roving, Shep's Natural White Wool, Wool Top, Roving, Fiber, Spin Fiber, Wool Rove, Spinning Wool, Wool For Spinning into Yarn Simply enter the quantity of lbs you want when you buy. We can send in 1lb or if you order more we send in one continuous roving. Retail is $34.95/lb Made from sheep breeds Blackface and Corriedale in eastern half of the United States. Ready for use in spinning and ready to dye too if you like. Staple length 2.5-3.5 inches (60-70 mm). Fiber count 54-56s (28 micron) We ship fast- THANK YOU!

THE TIMEPIECE PULLOVER A follow-up to the Timepiece Cardigan, this garment was inspired by the overlapping histories of horology 
and knitwear. Elegant, lightweight, and versatile, this pullover is a time-traveler, that can look equally at-home 
in a vintage photograph and in a present-day storefront.

 Worked seamlessly with raglan construction and an integrated neckband, this design requires minimal 
finishing after completion. ……. Note that two separate pattern files are included with the purchase of this pattern: (1) The Classic Edition, featuring a standard vertical v-neck. (2) The Nautical Edition, with options for a flamboyant sailor collar or a shorter polo-shirt style collar. Be aware that instructions for these two versions of the pattern differ at the very start and throughout the yoke. So you will need to decide before you start which collar you prefer, and use the relevant version of the pattern! ……. MATERIALS & INFORMATION SIZING Size 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9) measures as follows around chest circumference: 
86cm/ 34” (95cm/ 37.5”, 105cm/ 41.25”, 110.5cm/ 43.5”, 119cm/ 46.75”, 129.5cm/ 51”, 139cm/ 54.75”, 148.5cm/ 58.5”, 160cm/ 64”) YARN designed using WildBrier, from Spinning Yarns Weaving Tales 
suitable for sport to light DK weight yarns, approximately 300m/ 325y per 100g/ 3.5oz
 project requires approximately:
 4 (4, 4.5, 5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6, 6) 100g/3.5oz skeins for cropped length 
4 (4.5, 5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6, 6, 6.5) 100g/3.5oz skeins for full length
 Note: If opting for contrasting stripes along edgings, scrap yarn amounts of additional colour(s) will be needed. GAUGE
 23 sts x 30 rows = 10cm x 10cm in stockinette for main fabric 
 NEEDLES circular needle, 3.25mm (US 3) in diameter, or as needed to meet gauge for main fabric NOTIONS
 removable stitch markers, measuring tape, scrap yarn, 
optional: crochet hook SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
 provisional cast-on, picking up sts, optional: basic crochet chain CONSTRUCTION Starting with the collar, the garment is worked top-down, seamlessly, with compound raglan shaping and integrated Neckband

This pattern is include in the KNITLIGHT II Ebook and can be only buy it in it. Dahlia Tee is inspired by the lushness of dalias, their layers and depths, geometry and freedom. The T-shirt is worked bottom-up, creating a fun and very intuitive texture, once you have joined with the sleeves you work raglan shaping that finishes at the neck. The closing rib finishes the shaping of the T-shirt and you cast off here. It’s also a great opportunity to play with the colors. SIZES 1 (2 ,3, 4, 5) (Final measurements of the garment) with positive ease of between 5 and 12cm at the chest. Bust measurement: 89 (100, 112, 123, 133)cm. MATERIAL Yarn : Soft cotton by LANG YARNS (50g / 120m). Principal color 5 (5, 6, 7, 8). Contrast color 1 ball. Needles: circular 3mm (for cast off only) and 3.5mm needles and 100 or 120cm cable, depending on comfort and size. Other materials: Tapestry needle for sewing, markers. GAUGE 21.5sts x 30 rounds gives 10 x 10cm in fantasy stitch.

Yarn 2015 37

A week or so ago I posted about the self striping yarn that my daughter dyed and then I spun. I was so pleased with how our first attempt at dyeing turned out and I wanted to make a child's scarf so that my daughter could enjoy wearing something that she'd had a hand in making. My original intention was to knit it in linen stitch, which is perfect for scarves, as it forms a stable fabric that doesn't curl and it's pretty easy to remember, which makes it perfect for knitting hundreds of stitches without too much concentration. As a stitch on its own, it's relatively unimpressive, but it really comes into its own when it's worked in a self-striping yarn as the rows are dotted with strands of contrasting colour. However, when I started knitting a tension square in my handspun yarn, it just looked a bit too flat and I couldn't help thinking that the reverse side looked better as it had so much more texture. I just love how the purl stitches show off the handspun yarn and the texture creates shadows and contrast that bring out the colours far more, than on what is supposed to be the right side. I searched and searched for a 'reversible linen stitch' that had purl stitches on both sides, as well as the slipped stitches that carry the colour changes across the rows to get the woven, blended effect of linen stitch. Well if it exists, I couldn't find it, so I decided to work out my own stitch. It's often said that there are no new stitches, as knitting has been around for so long that it's just not possible to design a stitch that hasn't been done before - in fact, many, many years ago, when I was applying to universities to study knitwear design, I was naively showing a swatch of a stitch to my interviewer that I had proudly "invented"; the lecturer rather snootily told me that it's just not possible to invent a new stitch and that there is nothing new in hand knitting that hasn't been done before. So maybe I haven't invented this stitch, but here's my version of a reversible linen stitch, which I'm calling the "Bouclé Stitch" as the texture reminds me of fabric woven from bouclé yarn. My bouclé stitch is based on a moss stitch (US seed stitch) instead of stocking stitch and it's worked over 4 rows instead of 2, over an even number of stitches, as follows - Abbreviations: sl1 - slip 1 yb - yarn to the back, passed between the needles k1 - knit 1 yfwd - yarn to the front, passed between the needles p1 - purl 1 Boucle Stitch Pattern Row 1. *sl1, yb, k1, yfwd. Repeat from * to the end Row 2. * k1, yfwd, sl1, yb. Repeat from * to the end Row 3. *P1, yb, sl1, yfwd. Repeat from * to the end Row 4. *sl1, yfwd, p1, yb. Repeat from * to the end You may notice that the same alternate stitches are worked over two rows, you then switch over to work the remaining alternate stitches. There isn't really a right or wrong side, but if there is, this would be the front... ... and this would be the back. I've nearly finished the scarf and I'll be posting about it soon. So what so you think? Does this stitch already have a name? I'd love to know. Do you think it's really possible to "invent a new stitch", or has it all been done before? Related Posts:- ---------- Please be sweet and share the love. Leave a comment, subscribe to my YouTube channel, like my Facebook page for regular updates or follow me on Pinterest, Bloglovin' or Instagram

Corriedale wool (27-30 micron) has a defined, even crimp and is smooth and easy to spin or felt. You can spin a fine to medium woollen, worsted or semi-worsted yarn. Corriedale will bulk after washing and has good elasticity. It is ideal for baby wear, woven, knitted, crocheted or felted garments. 100 gram bags (1 kg bumps available by request). This product is not normally kept in stock, but we are happy to order it in! Ashford products are only available to be shipped to Canadian addresses, and are not eligible for use with discount codes (including codes generated from rewards) unless otherwise stated.

A nifty tool to manage your fiber

The Cloudy sweater is a hip-length style knit with a crew neck and long straight sleeves. The cuffs and hem are with slits. This sweater is worked top-down in Stockinette stitch pattern in raglan using increases M1R and M1L. Neck, cuffs, and hem are worked in a Twisted rib stitch pattern. The collar of the sweater is folded. The sweater body is worked straight, therefore it can be easily made longer and of course, more yarns should be estimated. The Cloudy sweater is a cozy knit which has three decorative lace stitch rows, so the sweater looks very simple and not boring.**Yarn:**Hip knit, Hip wool (100% peruvian highland wool; 50g (1.8oz) = 80m (87 yds)), colour: Cloudy dark grey blend.**Yarn weight (Chunky/Craft/Rug):**9 (10) 11 (12) 13 (14) 15 (16) balls**Gauge:**10cm x 10cm (4’’ x 4’’) = 13.5 stitches x 20 rows in Stockinette stitch after washing.**Pattern includes:**Pattern directions, Youtube video links with QR codes, schematics, abbreviations.

I've been working on the surprise jacket and decided it was a good opportunity to show off a technique I've been meaning to blog about. I hear all the time people avoid doing stripes because they hate weaving in all the ends. But stripes don't have to mean more work at the end if you weave them in as you go. When you are ready to change colors knit the first stitch in the new yarn to anchor it. You want to carry the old yarn and the new yarn along together. Here I am changing colors but it works just as well for starting a new ball of yarn that won't splice. I am a continental knitter primarily, so the first method is how I normally do it. Here is how I run them through my fingers, but you can do whatever is comfortable for you. The new yarn (green) is on the right and the old yarn (brown) is on the left. Now you want to duck under the old strand to pick the new yarn. Knit this stitch as you normally would. On the next stitch, work above the old yarn. You just keep doing these 2 stitches, working alternately under the old yarn and then above it, working 4-6 stitches depending on how slippery your yarn is. Here I'm showing how it works if you are a thrower. Hold the old yarn in your left hand and the new yarn in your right hand as you normally would. It doesn't matter how you hold the old yarn, just keep some tension on it. Insert the right needle in the next stitch. Now pull the old yarn forward, between the new working yarn and the new stitch. Wrap the stitch as normal with the new yarn. Then put the old yarn back behind the needles. This series of maneuvers works 1 stitch behind the old yarn. Now work the next stitch with the old yarn in back. These are the exact same 2 steps as shown above for continental knitting. Alternate working in front of and behind the old yarn for 4-6 stitches. Here is the back of the work, with the brown yarn woven in. I can now just snip it off and move on. On the next row I will weave in the tail of the green yarn, leaving no extra work. This is the same method you can use for trapping long floats when doing colorwork.

SKEINS: Yarn A: 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Line Weight; Yarn B: 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Tussock, SIZE: Circumference At Top: 19 inches; Circumference At Bottom: 22 inches; Height: 14 inches COLORS: Yarn A, Wheat Flour + Yarn B, Cloud Blue

Swing Revival is a two-color crescent-shaped shawl. Alternating wedges of stockinette and garter stitch swing from side to side, creating two halves with very distinct looks. The shawl is worked top-down and finished with a simple lace border accented with garter stitch. The pattern is written with both metric and US terminology. Both written and charted instructions are given for the lace border. Share your project with the hashtags #⁠swingrevivalshawl and #⁠talviknits. PAY WHAT YOU WANT Want to support the sustainability of indie knitwear design? Set your own price for this pattern on Payhip. FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Wingspan: approx. 215 cm / 84¾“ Depth: approx. 45 cm / 17¾“ MATERIALS Yarn Isager Spinni handpainted by Wollsinn (100% wool,
 300 m/50 g, 328 yd/1.76 oz), 2 colors Color A : 1 skein in the colorway Bordeaux Color B: 1 skein in the colorway Schiefer Or single-ply lace-weight yarn in 2 colors Color A for stockinette: approx. 300 m / 328 yd Color B for garter stitch and lace: approx. 300 m / 328 yd Needles 4.0 mm (US #6) long circular needle (80–100 cm /
 32–40”) or size needed to obtain gauge TECHNIQUES USED The pattern uses the following techniques: knitted cast-on and German short rows. A photo tutorial for German short rows is included at the end of the pattern. Ability to work lace from a chart is recommended but written instructions are also provided for the lace border. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS A big thank-you to all my test knitters: kramox, Manna2013, Mintsi, and nikkistamps! ALSO AVAILABLE ON Payhip :: LoveCrafts Swing Revival on kaksivärinen matalan sirpin muotoinen huivi. Huivissa vuorottelevat sileällä neuleella ja ainaoikealla tehdyt viipaleet, jotka kulkevat puolelta toiselle. Huivi neulotaan ylhäältä niskasta alkaen. Viimeisenä neulotaan pitsineuleesta ja ainaoikeasta koostuva reunus, jonka ohje on sekä sanallisessa että kaaviomuodossa. MAKSA MITÄ JAKSAT Haluatko tukea kotimaista neulesuunnittelua? Osta ohje Payhipissä ja päätä itse mitä maksat. VALMIN HUIVIN KOKO Siipiväli: n. 215 cm Korkeus: n. 45 cm TARVIKKEET Lanka Isager Spinni handpainted by Wollsinn (100% villaa, 300 m/50 g), 2 väriä Väri A : 1 vyyhti väriä Bordeaux Väri B: 1 vyyhti väriä Schiefer Tai yksisäikeistä pitsivahvuista lankaa seuraavasti: Väriä A sileään neuleeseen: n. 300 m Väriä B ainaoikeaan ja pitsiin: n. 300 m Puikot 4.0 mm pitkä pyöröpuikko (80 tai 100 cm) tai käsialan mukaan Muut tarvikkeet Päättelyneula KÄYTETYT TEKNIIKAT Ohjeessa käytetään neuloen luomista ja lyhennettyjä kerroksia ns. German short rows -tekniikalla. Ohjeen viimeisellä sivulla on kuvatutoriaali lyhennettyjen kerrosten neulomiseen. Pitsineulekaavion lukutaitoa suositellaan mutta ohjeet pitsineuleisiin on annettu myös sanallisesti. OHJE SAATAVILLA MYÖS Payhip :: LoveCrafts

Bottom whorl drop spindles, as their name suggests, differ from the high or top whorl spindles by the fact that the whorl is situated in the lower part of the shaft, giving it a low centre of gravi…

Sabine is seamless; knitted from the top down with eyelet detailing on the flared sleeves and hourglass shaped back. It drapes beautifully worn loose, or wear it tied or fastened with a brooch. Knitted with very little yardage, it's an affordable way to wrap yourself in luxury. See it on Ravelry NOTE:  PATTERNS ARE PDF

Hali is available as my personal pattern on the 1st of March. -Leeni Hali means a hug in Finnish, and the pullover is like a warm hug from a friend on a chilly day. It’s a bit oversize so you can layer your clothes with a blouse and jeans and feel comfortable. The funnel neck gives the pullover a contemporary look even though the stitch pattern is quite timeless. Can you see how the stitches are chained to each other – just like us? The sweaters is worked top down seamlessly. Sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8) Finished bust circumference: 89 (97, 105, 113, 121, 129, 137, 141) cm / 35 (38.25, 41.5, 44.5, 47.5, 51, 54, 57)” - recommended to be worn with 7-11 cm / 2.75-4.5” of positive ease at the bust. Yarn Main yarn: Tukuwool Fingering (100% Finnish wool; 195 metres / 213 yards per 50 g) Held with: Isager Silk Mohair (75% kid mohair, 25% silk; 212 metres / 232 yards per 25 g) 800 (1015, 1130, 1210, 1330, 1443, 1560, 1680 metres / 874 (1110, 1235, 1323, 1454, 1578, 1706, 1837) yards of each yarn. Sample shown is knit in colourways Tukuwool Fingering Sake and Isager Silk Mohair 63. Theresa wears a size 3 with 12 cm / 4.75” of positive ease. Needles 4 mm / US 6 circular needle with a cable length of at least 80 cm / 32” (or needle size to obtain gauge) 4 mm / US 6 double-pointed needles (or needle size to obtain gauge) 3.5 mm / US 4 circular needle with a cable length of at least 80 cm / 32” (or needle 2 sizes smaller than main needle) 3.5 mm / US 4 double-pointed needles (or needle 2 sizes smaller than main needle) Gauge 20 sts x 28 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4” (in the round, in stockinette stitch, on larger needle, after blocking) Notions • Blocking tools (blocking mats, t-pins, blocking wires) • Cable needle • Darning needle • Stitch markers • Tape measure Contributors • Photography, Hair & Make-up: Melinda Dela Costa • Model: Theresa Sindy • Tech Editing: Marina Skua

“I don’t want to spin mud” - This is a very common phrase uttered amongst hand spinners and it refers to the frustrating phenomenon of buying the most beautiful, multi-coloured blend of fibres, and then spinning a yarn from it that, from a short distance, looks like a murky brown or dirty grey colour. I’ve done it myself. I bought three hundred grams of World of Wool’s Fairytale blend called “Over the Rainbow” and took it away on holiday to spin. Image copyright World of Wool It’s gorgeous, and if I’d spun it using a drafting or preparation method that would have kept those colours separated, I would have achieved a beautifully variegated yarn… Unfortunately, I blindly drafted it all and then spun it from the end using a short forward draw. My resulting yarn came out a slightly disappointing dirty green colour. I achieved this muddy result due to optical blending - when two or more small areas of colour are repeated, very close together, the eye doesn’t perceive them as separate colours, but instead blends them together. Plotting the colours from Over the Rainbow on a colour wheel If I’d actually stopped to think about it, basic colour theory would have told me that any blend that contains colours from all the way around the colour wheel will inevitably turn out to be just a little bit brown or grey, if it’s not spun with the intention of maintaining larger areas of each colour, so that the eye still sees each shade in its original hue, when it’s spun and plied into the final yarn. Helpfully, World of Wool lists the individual colours in the Over the Rainbow blend. When you see them separated out like this, it’s not surprising that my finely drafted singles ended up a dirty green colour. Without the red, I probably would have got a fresh green, but throw in its opposite colour and things begin to turn brown. Since my first and only experience of “spinning mud,” I’ve been very cautious to only buy blends made from analogous shades - colours that sit relatively close together on the colour wheel, so that if they were all mixed together you wouldn’t get grey or brown, but a heathered, richer shade of the sum of all the colours. I’ve been playing it safe. Well, my fibre preparation skills have improved quite a bit over the last few years, and so I’ve decided to play around a little and experiment with a few different methods of spinning a multi-coloured blended top. Since the unfortunate incident with the Over the Rainbow fibre blend, I’ve learned that the two most popular methods deployed to avoid spinning mud are to either spin from the fold, or to tear off strips so that you are spinning from a reduced number of colours. I’ve got a couple of other methods that I’d like to try, but basically, I’m just going to have fun playing around with coloured fibres to see what I come up with. I’ve had the idea for this post for some time now, and when I was taking a look at the secret “Mill Members” page of John Arbon Textiles I found the perfect fibre blend for this project. This is “Midsommar” by John Arbon. It seems to be made up of turquoise, black, orange, red, and a tiny dash of yellow and white. Just the fact that it contains quite a bit of both turquoise and orange tells me that there’s a good chance that my yarn will end up brown if I’m not careful. A quick way to get an idea of what kind of optical blend I would get is to blend the colours digitally beforehand… The central rectangle selection of the fibre image has been blurred in Procreate … and yes, it looks like there is a very good chance of ending up with a dull grey/brown. This could be challenging. Each single will later be chain-plied with relatively short chains to finish it, as this is the easiest way of increasing the chance of getting the different colours to pool with themselves. The control - lashing onto a hackle I’m going to begin by intentionally blending the fibres together by randomly throwing them onto my hackle and then dizzing off a thin roving. This will give me a yarn with quite a thorough blend of colours, and it will be useful to compare my later yarns with. If I were to draft out all of the blended top, and then spin from the end, I imagine that I would get a very similar colour effect. Here’s the hackle blended yarn. It’s quite an attractive, heathered brown shade, and I love how, when you look closely, you can see the turquoise and orange shades. However, there’s no denying that it’s a long way from the bold, contrasting blended top that I started with. Control yarn knitted sample #1 Spinning from the end, without pre-drafting With my first method, I drafted from the very tip of the blended top. Normally, I would predraft my fibres, but that would only thin out each colour, forcing me to spin from all of the colours at the same time. Working from undrafted top allowed me to spin for a while on the individual colours, before moving onto the next colour along. It took a little more concentration, but I think it was quite effective. I love the tweedy subtlety of this yarn - the orange and turquoise flecks are dotted around the mostly warm brown background. Control yarn and yarn spun from the end of undrafted top. #2 Spinning from the fold To spin from the fold, I pulled off a small section, that was just 10-15cm long. (I did try longer lengths, but the fibres tended to bunch up in my hand after a little while.) I then opened up the top and spread it across my index finger so that I could see as many of the different bands of colour as possible. I then spun from the centre of the fibres, effectively spinning the blended top from the side, so that the colours were mostly spun one after the other, rather than combined with each other. The resulting yarn appeared to be the most colourful, with the most barber poling, and the least colour mixing of all of the yarns. As I'd pulled off a shortish length of blended top, it also gave me the shortest individual lengths of colour variegation - which explains why there is so much more barber poling in this yarn than in any of the others. I can definitely see why this is a popular method for avoiding optical blending, as it was very little extra effort, once I’d worked out my preferred technique. Control yarn and yarn spun from the fold Personally, I think this spinning method would look better with a blended top that is made up of analogous shades as the colour changes were much more sudden in the knitted sample, than in any of the others. It is still a very pretty yarn though. Here's a video of me 'spinning from the fold' in a little more detail. #3 Splitting the top vertically into a reduced number of colours, and then breaking each section up to distribute it throughout the yarn The Midsommar top, was really quite well blended, which made splitting it vertically challenging. My goal was to split the blended top into sections that contained just one or two colours, but unfortunately, some of the colour sections were so thin that I was either spinning from sections that barely needed any drafting, or it just wasn’t possible to divide it into sections that wouldn’t turn brown. It was also a little more effort than the previous 2 spinning methods. It did give me quite long sections of colour though, compared to some of the other spinning methods. Control yarn and top split vertically yarn This yarn felt much more designed than the previous yarns. Although I spun the colours randomly, for speed, I could have arranged them into a gradient, or had longer or shorter colour changes if I had a specific project in mind. This method definitely has a lot of possibilities. This was one of my favourite yarns, so I made a video of how I made it. #4 Drafting onto a blending board and then spinning from 3 rolags. In this method, I drafted the fibre onto the blending board, trying to keep each coloured layer the same. I then pulled off 3 rolags from the blending board, drafting them off as I rolled. In retrospect, I think it was quite optimistic of me to hope that carefully putting down 4 layers of fibre on top of each other would ensure that all of the individual colours would stay together during spinning. As you can see, they mostly merged together, with the odd pop of colour here and there. Control yarn and 4 layers drafted onto a blending board yarn The resulting yarn was quite subtle, with the odd fleck of colour on a mostly brown background. #5 Drafting thickly onto a blending board and then spinning from 1 large rolag After realising that adding lots of thin layers resulted in a lot more blending of colours, I decided to try something slightly different. This time, I only slightly drafted the fibres onto the blending board in just a couple of layers. I then pulled all of the fibre off in one, large rolag. Whenever I've seen anyone using a blending board in the past, I've always wondered why they don't pull off just a single rolag, instead of splitting it into two or more. I'd never tried it myself, but as this was definitely a time to play and experiment, I decided to give it a try to see what difference it made. The resulting rolag looked like it had so much potential and promise, but sadly, it was probably the least fun to spin. The fibres, being wound thickly, took much more effort to draft. It was also impossible to stop the colours from blending as they all seemed to want to be drawn out of the centre of the rolag at once. If I were to class any of the yarns as a fail, this would be it. Control yarn and yarn spun from a single, fat rolag There is a hint of orange in the cast-on edge, and the odd pop of colour here and there, but it's overwhelmingly brown. It was an interesting learning experiment, but I won't be trying it again. #6 Opening up the top so that the individual colours lie next to each other in a single layer, and then drafting off four rolags Well, we learn so much more from our mistakes than our triumphs, and for my third attempt at using the blending board, I worked out a method that really worked for me. I'd already learned that the more layers I draft onto the blending board, the more likely they are to blend together during spinning, so this time I decided not to draft the fibres on at all. I simply opened up the blended top so that I could see as many of the individual colours as possible, broke it off and then carefully attached it to the blending board with my blending brush. Having already learned that one thick rolag was definitely not a good idea, I drafted off four separate, thin rolags. The thin rolags were a little more delicate, but the fibres drafted smoothly from them, the colours blending from one to another easily. This turned out to be one of my favourite yarns, not just in appearance, but by how easy it was to prepare and spin. It was a joy, and I ended up spinning more of this yarn than any of the others. Control yarn and yarn spun from a single, undrafted layer Aesthetically, it's quite similar to the yarn that was spun from the fold, but the colours are just a little bit more muted and the colour changes appear a little less sudden. #7 Opening up the top so that the individual colours lie next to each other in a single layer on the blending board, and then drafting off with a diz After my success with a single undrafted layer, I decided to see the difference dizzing the fibre off would make. The fibres were laid down on the blending board in the same way as method 6. Just in this animated gif, you can see that several colours are being pulled off at once, which is definitely going to result in a lot more optical blending. This was one of the more subtly coloured yarns that I spun. Control yarn and yarn dizzed off from a single layer There's a definite place for this understated yarn, and the pops of colour add interest to what is still quite a reserved yarn. #8 Opening up the top so that the individual colours lie next to each other in 3 layers on the blending board, and then drafting off with a diz The only difference between this and the previous yarn is that I laid the fibre on the blending board in 3 layers - attempting to colour match as I laid down the fibre. The fibre for this yarn was a little easier to diz off as it was laid more thickly on the blending board. Control yarn and yarn dizzed off from 3 layers It's still quite similar in appearance to the previous yarn, there are just slightly more areas of colour. #9 Tearing out each individual colour and arranging it in a gradient on the blending board, then drafting off 4 rolags This was by far the most time-consuming method of avoiding optical blending, but I think it's one of the most attractive. As the Midsommar blend was really quite well blended, I found myself pulling off very thin strands to arrange them on the blending board in such a way that they wouldn't all merge into brown. I did actually fill the blending board with a gradient twice - the second time took significantly less time than the first, so I imagine that this is a technique that would get quicker with practice. Having learned that thinner rolags are better for preventing colour blending, I pulled off four quite delicate, but very attractive rolags to spin from. Looking at the singles on the wheel, I love how the colours are very distinct and transition beautifully from one to the other. This resulting yarn looks like it might have been spun from a hand-painted top - but for a fraction of the price! Control yarn and yarn arranged in a gradient on a blending board Here, you can see that this yarn, unsurprisingly, has the longest of all the colour repeats. Like the yarn split vertically, this method has a lot of potential variations. This video shows me separating out the colours in a little more detail - ----- Gosh, I’ve learned so much, just allowing myself to play with fibre this past couple of weeks. I would highly recommend it! I’ve also fallen back in love with my blending board, now that I’ve learned different ways of using it to avoid spinning mud. As you can see, I've made four videos of the techniques that I think worked best, and you can find them, and other fibre-to-yarn videos on my YouTube channel here. If you've found this post useful, please pin it to Pinterest - it makes a big difference and really helps other spinners find it too. At this point, I normally suggest similar related blog posts, however, my list of spinning-related content is becoming a little unmanageable... If you'd like to read more blog posts about spinning and fibre preparation, please take a look at this page here where you will find links to all of my spinning and fibre articles. Thank you for reading, and happy spinning! Some of my Other Spinning Related Posts Spinning into Focus Linear Blending a Gradient Hackle Blending a Long Gradient Blending and Spinning a Rainbow Yarn 2 Ways Chain-Plying at the Wheel Versus Making a Chain-Plied Ball How to Measure Handspun Yarn Using an App Free Handspun Yarn Labels Spinning Dog Hair DIY Hackle DIY Mini Wool Combs 3D Printed Modular Lazy Kate Yarn Gauge Reference Tool for Hand Spinners Testing the Electric Eel Wheel Yarn Counter Prototype Spinning Supercoil Yarn Using Waste Fibres Unbiased Review of the Daedalus Sparrow Testing the LWS Autowinder for the Electric Eel Wheel 6 Spinning a Complex Fractal 3 Ply Yarn ---------- Please be sweet and share the love. Leave a comment, subscribe to my YouTube channel, like my Facebook page for regular updates or follow me on Pinterest, Bloglovin' or Instagram

The Spins Cardigan is an instant wardrobe staple. With its cropped fit and popped collar, you’ll wonder how you lived so long without it Materials: - 1 pair of 8 mm circular needles, 24” cord - 1 pair of 6 mm circular needles, 24” cord - 5 (5) 6 (6) 7 (7) 8 (8) 8 skeins of 100g/100m Suggested Yarns: - Wool and the Gang, Alpachino Merino - Drops, Andes - Malabrigo Yarn, Chunky - We are Knitters, Squish Yarn - Cascade Yarns, 128 Superwash - Lion Brand Yarns, Hue and Me - Any Bulky weight yarn - Cascade Yarns, Baby Alpaca Chunky - Sandnes Garn, Kos Yarn, held double Measurements: XS: Width - 18” Length - 12” Sleeve - 16” Small: Width - 20” Length - 13” Sleeve - 17” Medium: Width - 22” Length - 14” Sleeve: - 18” Large: Width - 24” Length - 15” Sleeve - 19” XL: Width - 26” Length - 16” Sleeve - 20” 2X: Width - 28” Length - 17” Sleeve - 21” 3X: Width - 30” Length - 18” Sleeve - 22” 4X: Width - 32” Length - 19” Sleeve - 22” 5X: Width - 34” Length - 20” Sleeve - 22” This pattern is suitable for beginners! You should be familiar with stockinette stitch! This pattern uses the following techniques: picking up stitches, increases, and knitting in the round. I’ll be posting tutorials on my instagram! Check on my instagram @karas.knit.eng and the tag #TheSpinsCardigan for more images!

Yarn Notes The Brand 30 beautifully illustrated patterns for 1, 2 or 3 skeins of Noro Yarn. This book is perfect for a first foray into the world of Noro, or for stashbusting!  Patterns include hats, bags, cowls, shawlettes, shrugs, toys, and even a lacy cardigan and empire-waist top. 144 pages, Hardback. "I have come to believe that these yarns are as close to art as we have in the industry. The man behind them is an artist himself, and these yarns are an expression of his spirit rather than just a commercial product." Cornelia Tuttle Hamilton The World of Nature In recent years, the yarn industry has been actively promoting awareness of ecological sustainability, but this concept has been part of the Noro philosophy from the very beginning. The preservation of nature is such an important concept of his business that Mr Noro leaves nothing to chance, personally overseeing every aspect of production from sheep to yarn ball, including all machinery, labelling, yarn bags, boxes and even the garbage that the company produces. All the animal fibres used in Noro yarns are Organic. Most of the wool comes from a special breed of sheep called Polwarth, raised especially for Noro on a non-mulesing farm in Australia. Other fibres from from the Falkland Islands and South Africa, from Organic Farms. The Production Process "Friction, rubbing and heat during processing weaken the fibres in direct proportion to the length of time they are processed. By dramatically shortening this process, we are preventing damage to the enzymes in the fibres and simultaneously profiting the environment." Mr Eisaku Noro Environmental considerations are at the forefront of the dyeing process, with each step being carefully controlled. The natural fibres are dyed using a pH balance that is compatible with the fibres. Noro's modifications to the blowing, carding and spinning processes reap a total energy savings of 46% as compared to typical yarn industry standards. The unique manufacturing process that results in the exceptional colourways and textures have always been closely guarded secret in Japan. Brand Concept Harmonise natural unevenness, asymmetric pattern and complex colour to portray the beauty of the nature. Taking sufficient time to dye yarn Tenderness of materials to preserve their original characters and deliver them into the hands of the crafter “BE FREE FROM EXISTING CONCEPTS AND LIMITATIONS” “PURSUE THE IMAGE IN OUR MINDS” Noro yarns have longer spans of colour in the runs than many other yarns, causing distinctive striping patterns, as well as being spun by hand versus being produced completely by machines. There have been plenty of attempts to imitate the magic of Noro, but in the world of self-striping yarn, nothing compares with Noro.

An attractive draped cardigan that suits any shape. Worked from the top down in one piece. The pattern includes 2 versions that differ only in the way the edges are made. The EASY VERSION requires knowledge of basic CO on and BO methods. The I-CORD VERSION produces a more polished edge, and uses i-cord CO and i-cord BO for all edges. Instructions for both are provided in the pattern.Choose a dk or sport weight yarn that has a recommended gauge of 22-24 sts/10 cm, and drapes well for example, contains some silk, bamboo or alpaca.Yarn requirements: XS (S, M1, M2, L1) [L2, XL, XXL] metres: 950 (1050, 1150, 1250, 1350) 1400, 1500, 1600 yards: 1030 (1140, 1250, 1350, 1460) 1520, 1625, 1735

….. GAN {Irish: without}
 What does it mean, when we define a thing by something it lacks? In many languages, including Irish and Russian, the term for vest translates roughly as ‘without sleeves.’ I still remember how, as a child, this turn of phrase made me feel sorry for the humble sleeveless garment! But later I found this idea - of something being missing - quite evocative. It was as if the focus on the sleeves’ absence became almost a presence in itself. 

 When it comes to this vest design, the ‘without’ is not a drawback; it is an invitation. Ask yourself: What can I wear this garment with? And let the possibilities ignite your imagination. Designed as a ‘trend-neutral’ vest, Gan is infinitely adaptable to accommodate a variety of aesthetic preferences and body proportions. The main pattern instructions will produce a classic, semi-cropped vest with a scoop neckline, standard-depth armholes, and edgings that end just beyond the shoulders. A choice of plain or eyelet ribbing is provided for the finishing. The Appendix offers additional instructions for adapting the pattern to current trends, including: a tall neckline, extra-deep armholes, tunic-length bodice, split hem, ‘winged’ armhole edgings, and more. You can make a collection of quite different-looking vests according to this one pattern! Note: This is an updated re-release of a pattern which was originally published in March 2018 by S-Twist Wool under the name San Fhoraois, and again in January 2020 by Yarn Vibes. As the designer, I have now published it here independently. ….. MATERIALS & INFO Sizing Size 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) measures as follows around chest circumference: 84.5cm/ 33.75” (91cm/ 36.5”, 102cm/ 41”, 111cm/ 44.5”, 120cm/ 48”, 129cm/ 51.5”, 138cm/ 55”, 146.5cm/ 58.75”, 153.5cm/ 61.25”, 162cm/ 65”) Gauge
 main fabric: 18 sts x 24 rows = 10cm/ 4” x 10cm/ 4” in stockinette
 edgings: 20 sts x 28 rows = 10cm/ 4” x 10cm/ 4” in 2x2 rib, blocked flat Yarn
 suitable for DK to Aran weight yarns, approximately 150-200m/100g (164-220y/3.5oz) 
 requires: 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) 100g skeins Needles 
 Needle A: circular needle, 4.5mm (US 7) in diameter or as needed to meet gauge for main fabric
 Needle B: circular needle, 3mm (US 3) in diameter or as needed to meet gauge for edgings

 Notions
 stitch markers, tapestry needle, scrap yarn, (optional) 2 stitch holders Special Techniques
 provisional cast-on, picking up sts from selvage edge, (optional) basic lacework Construction Worked seamlessly, from the top down, with contiguous shoulder construction; bodice is worked in the round. (Note: what appear to be seams in the photos are faux seams; this is not a pieced garment). This pattern includes a schematic with measurements. This pattern includes a chart for the optional eyelet rib edgings. ….. SAMPLES INFO The green sample with plain edgings and the pink sample with eyelet edgings were knitted with Höner och Eir Nutiden, held double. The mauve sample with ‘winged’ edgings was knitted with Studio Donegal Aran Tweed. It was made by the woman modelling the garment. The dark tweed tunic-length sample with tall neckline was knitted with Studio Donegal Aran Tweed. It was made by the woman modelling the garment. All samples are Size 3, modelled with 10-15cm/ 4-6” of ease.

Nana's Favorite Dishcloth Pattern is a simple kitchen dishcloth with an easy-to-memorize repeat that knitters of any skill level can work up. Knitted dishcloth patterns like these are perfect for scrubbing off dishes because the purl bumps on both sides allow for plenty of grabbing and friction. The best yarn to use for this knit dishcloth pattern is cotton, since it easily absorbs water and is washable, so you can use it again and again. Since this kitchen dishcloth is so versatile, you could knit up a bunch in the colors of your kitchen!

SPINNING TOP BLANKET CAL PATTERN: PART 1: CENTRE CIRCLE PATTERN 5mm hook Aran4mm hook dkUS Terms, UK Terms in bracketsCOLOURS FOR FIRST 2 CENTRESOPTION 1:Part 1 Centre motif:cloud bluepistachiosag

Everyone has their go-to or workhorse cast-on. More often than not it can be a Knitted cast-on or a Long-Tailed cast-on; or perhaps the Cabl...