Every year around this time I start thinking of the beautiful blooms in the garden beds throughout the yard. I get anxious for warmer weather, and just thinking of the explosion of color that takes place is exciting. I love to see little sprouts break through the soil and plants breaking their dormancy. The hard work and months of planning and waiting are well worth it. When I organize my garden beds, I plan with several things in mind: Color, texture, form, and hardiness. I love perennials, and most of my beds are filled with these plants, that come back year after year. I like plants that require minimal care and are vigorous. Since I make arrangements each week through bloom season, I also take into account the plant's vase life. By planting early, mid and late spring bloomers, a long bloom season can also be accomplished. Here are some of my favorite beds:
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Mix and match these flower combinations for a gorgeous garden. Their colors, textures, and bloom times offer something for everyone.
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Dietes iridiodes The African Iris, also known as Fornight Lily or Morea Iris, has sword-shaped leaves that grow in a fan-like pattern and beautiful white iris-like […]
W hat I love most about August is the flower catalogs that come in the mail. My all-time favorite catalog is the ones with irises. It's a magical time when bearded irises unfurl their pencil-slim buds to reveal a kaleidoscope of color in spring. Once commonly called flags, these perennials flourish in USDA Zones 3-9, where winter temperatures dip below freezing and allow the plant to go dormant before next year's growth. Next to roses, the iris is my all-time favorite flower. They are fragrant and the blooms have an iridescent quality to them. A serious cottage garden must have irises. Bearded iris is among the most elegant -- and easy to grow -- flowers of spring. Follow our tips for long-lasting, ever-multiplying blooms. Bearded irises are relatively easy garden plants to grow and will give good results with a minimum of care, but like all plants, the better the culture the more magnificent the display. The following instructions are easy to implement and should lead to beautiful iris blooms year after year. Planting Bearded Iris Soil Preparation: Iris will thrive in most well-drained garden soils. Planting on a slope or in raised beds helps ensure good drainage. If your soil is heavy, coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. Gypsum is an excellent soil conditioner that can improve most clay soils. The ideal pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic), but Iris are tolerant in this regard. To adjust the pH of your soil, lime may be added to acidic soils or sulfur to alkaline soils. It is always best to have your soil analyzed before taking corrective measures. When, Where and How to Plant Bearded Iris Rhizomes: For best results, Iris should be planted in July, August or September. It's imperative that the roots of newly planted Iris be well-established before the growing season ends. In areas with hot summers and mild winters, September or October planting may be preferred. Iris need at least a half day of sun. In extremely hot climates, some shade is beneficial, but in most climates Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun. should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward in the soil. Step (1) Build up a small mound of soil in the center of the planting hole. Step (2) Center the rhizome on the soil mound and spread out the roots on either side. Step (3) Firm the soil around the roots. Newly planted rhizomes should be watered thoroughly. Be Patient -- Irises are perennials and require time to grow. New growth may be noticeable within 2-3 weeks and begins with a new center leaf in the fan. Depending upon the maturity of the rhizome and the geographical location, there may or may not be blooms the first Spring. In very light soils or in extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with 1 inch of soil may be desirable. Firm the soil around each rhizome and then water to help settle the soil. A common mistake is to plant Bearded Iris too deeply. Iris are generally planted 12 to 24 inches apart. Close planting gives an immediate effect, but closely planted Iris will need to be thinned often. Plants spaced further apart will need less frequent thinning. Watering Needs of Bearded Iris Newly set Iris plants need moisture to help their root systems become established. Specific watering information depends on your climate and your soil, but keep in mind that deep watering at long intervals is better than more frequent shallow waterings. Once established, Iris normally don't need to be watered except in arid areas. Over-watering is a common error. Fertilizing Bearded Iris Specific fertilizer recommendations depend on your soil type, but bone meal, superphosphate and 6-10-10 are all effective. A light application in the early spring and a second light application about a month after bloom will reward you with good growth and bloom. Avoid using anything high in nitrogen, as nitrogen encourages rot problems. The soil type for your area will determine your fertilizer needs. Superphosphate, or a well-balanced fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 10-10-10 or 5-10-10 are recommended. Avoid anything high in nitrogen as it encourages soft growth that is susceptible to disease. Provide a light application in early spring and again a month after bloom . Place fertilizer around rhizomes, not directly on them. Alfalfa pellets (without salt) are extremely beneficial when incorporated in the soil around newly planted irises. Do NOT use Feed and Weed preparations. Dividing Clumps When irises become crowded, usually every three to four years, bloom will decline. At this time, old clumps may be thinned by removing several divisions and leaving a portion of the clump in the ground. A better practice is to remove the entire clump, replenish the soil and replant a few large rhizomes. Bloom Habits Bearded Iris range from the small to the tall, with the shortest of them beginning to bloom as early as late March here in Oregon. The color spectacle continues into April with the emergence of the Median Bearded Iris, followed by the Tall Bearded Iris which begin to fade in early to mid-June. Bloom time for each variety lasts approximately two weeks, depending on the weather. There are some Tall Bearded Iris that bloom early and some that bloom late, so try some of each to lengthen your season by a week or two. Consider some of the smaller bearded Iris, such as the Intermediate and Standard Dwarf Bearded Iris, as you can add a month to the beginning of your bloom season using these. Caring for Your Iris Beds Keep your Iris beds clean and free of weeds and debris, allowing the tops of the rhizomes to bask in the sun. Bloom stalks should be cut off close to the base after all buds have finished blooming. Healthy green leaves should be left undisturbed, but diseased or brown leaves should be removed. Some of my favorite Irises ________________________________________________________________
Mix and match these flower combinations for a gorgeous garden. Their colors, textures, and bloom times offer something for everyone.
Iris are one of the most beautiful and low care flowers that is why they are gardener's favorite and if you are growing them, learn about the iris companion plants.
Bearded iris plants are prone to diseases and pests that damage the leaves. Learn when to cut back irises to keep them beautiful and healthy.
Not really a fan of the iris-folding, but I did this for a commission. The folded pieces are all torn from old magazines and catalogues and I quite like the mish-mashy way they go together.
Do you want to know how to plant Iris bulbs correctly? It is very easy, so let's learn how to plant bearded Irises for the best flowering
Selecting Plant Companions for Purple Plants
Yesterday, I enlarged and printed both the iris and its leaves on fabric then applied some Steam-a-Seam2 Lite (fusible web) to the back so the iris could be fused to the watercolour panel backgroun…
Siberian Irises are such easy, reliable perennials that I tend to take them a bit for granted. I have three different cultivars in my backyard; an indigo blue, a medium purple and a dark inky-blue. I planted them well before I began this blog and started keeping track of plant tags, so I am sorry but I won't be able to identify them for you. The most striking of the three is the deep navy blue iris my Mom gave me. The Siberian Irises you find in most gardens are a hybrid of two species iris; Iris sibirica and Iris sanguinea. The two species plants are found primarily in Central Europe and Asia. They grow in grassy meadows which become flooded by streams that surge with runoff from melting snow every spring. Siberian Irises bloom in mid-spring to early summer (in my zone 6b garden, that's early to mid-June). To be honest, I find their floral display is a bit brief for my liking (approximately 2 weeks) and their foliage can look a bit messy once they've flowered. On the plus side, Siberian Irises flower early in the gardening season when not much else is blooming. They are also relatively low maintenance. After weighing all these characteristics, I still think Siberian Irises are well worth having in your garden. Piper among the irises and self-seeded Sweet Rocket (mauve flower). A purple iris in my garden. The Siberian Iris I brought home from my Mom's garden. Here's a quick list of the growing requirements for Siberian Iris: Light Full sun is generally recommended for irises. In my garden, the Siberian Irises get morning sun with light afternoon shade and that seems to suit them just fine. I think this works well because conditions here are on the dry side and they get a break from the scorching sun on hot summer afternoons. In terms of the sunlight levels, it seems to be a delicate balancing act–if there was any more shade, I think my Siberian Irises would struggle to grow and bloom. Soil Siberian Irises flourish in soil that is rich in organic matter. They also prefer soil that is slightly acidic, they are remarkably adaptable to average garden soil. Planting Unlike bearded iris, Siberian Irises don't like to have their rhizomes exposed to sunlight. Instead, cover the rhizomes of bare-root plants with one to two inches of soil. If you purchase a Siberian Iris in a pot, the soil in the garden should be level with that in the pot. Place plants 1.5-2 feet apart. Water them and continue to provide water regularly in their first season. Fertilizer The Canadian Iris Society recommends an application of fertilizer early in the spring that is higher in nitrogen, followed by a balanced fertilizer at the end of the bloom cycle when the plant enters a growth phase. Moisture Fortunately for me, Siberian Irises like moisture in the spring but are adaptable to somewhat drier conditions in the summer. Providing adequate moisture throughout the growing season will, of course, encourage healthier, bigger clumps. If you top dress with a layer of organic matter, it will help conserve moisture and keep the soil cooler for your irises. Pests I have yet to experience a pest problem with any of my Siberian Irises. They seem to be much more resistant to disease than my bearded irises. While I have been lucky, Siberian Irises can sometimes fall victim to iris borer. Adult borers are nocturnal moths that lay their eggs on garden debris in late summer or fall. They hatch into one-inch sized larvae that chew their way into the leaves and eat their way down to the rhizomes. Borer damage is often seen as notched wounds or slimy, wet-looking areas on the foliage. Once they eat their way down to the base of the plant, they begin to hollow their way through the rhizomes. In August, they pupate in the soil and hatch into more adult moths. To deter this pest, keep the rhizomes of your Siberian iris clear of any debris throughout the growing season. Transplanting and Dividing Siberian iris can be left undisturbed for several years. You'll know it's time to divide your clump when fresh growth is less vigorous and there are fewer and fewer flowers. The time to divide older clumps is right after they flower. Over the years, my Siberian Irises have grown into huge clumps–so big I foolishly put off the hard work of digging them up and dividing them. Last spring I finally transplanted smaller pieces to the perimeter of what I hope will be our new pond. Clumps can be as small as 2 to 4 fan divisions. Don't let the exposed roots of your divisions dry out while you dig a new hole. Place them in a shallow bucket of water while you're working. When you plant the divisions, the rhizomes should be about an inch below the surface (slightly deeper in sandy soil). The time you want to spoil your plants with regular watering is right after you transplant the divisions. It will really help them get re-established in their new spot. Keep in mind that it may take as many as 6-8 weeks for them to settle in, so keep a regular watering regime going well into the summer. Growing Siberian Iris from Seed If you would like to grow Siberian Iris from seed, leave a few flowers to mature into seed pods. When the seed heads are ripe (in the early fall), they will open slightly at the top. Shell the seed pods. From here there are different ways to proceed. The easiest method is to sow the seeds directly in the fall. Seeds can also be stored in a cool dry place for the winter. I am going to defer to the experts on the Canadian Iris Society website when it comes to the subject of successful germination because it appears to be quite complicated. Here's a link to their advice. Cultivars Siberian Irises come in a wide range of colours; blue, purple, white, yellow, white, orange-brown and warm shades of pink or reddish-purple. Here's a quick look at some irises just to give you an idea of the wide range of colors available: Iris Sibirica 'High Standard' Iris Sibirica 'Strawberry Social' Iris Sibirica 'Ranman' Iris Sibirica 'Royal Herald' The Canadian Iris Society has a list of plant sources for both Canada and the US (scroll down a little when you get to the Society's webpage). Most nurseries will offer a limited selection in the spring. Mail-order sources offer the biggest array of plants but sadly, for those of you wanting to plant irises this spring, most of these companies do not ship until the fall. Companion Plants Siberian Irises look quite nice in groups of two or three complementary colors. Other companion plants should bloom mid-spring, like full sun to part shade and average to moist soil. A Siberian Iris (right) combined with a dark blue Salvia (centre foreground), a hardy geranium (lower left corner) and Centaurea hypoleuca 'John Coutts' (see in detail below) at the Royal Botanical Garden in Hamilton. Knapweed, Centaurea hypoleuca 'John Coutts' is a clump-forming perennial that has lavender-pink flowers and deeply cut grey-green leaves. It is quite happy in poor to average garden soil (it may require staking in rich soil). Deadhead the flowers to encourage reblooming. Attractive to butterflies. Full sun. Height: 50-60 cm (20-23 inches) Spread: 45-60 cm (18-23 inches). USDA zones: 3-9. An unknown type of Siberian Iris paired with a Ligularia and Allium 'Purple Sensation' Top row from left to right: Hardy Geraniums (Cranesbill) The short, rounded shape of hardy geraniums makes them a nice perennial to grow at the feet of a Siberian Iris. Full sun to part-shade. Lupins have tall floral spires in shades of pink, lavender, purple, red, maroon and white. They like full sun to light shade and moist, well-drained soil. Read more here. Columbine is a short-lived perennial that have an array of flower forms and colors. Full sun to light shade. Read more about them here. Bottom row from left to right: Hardy Salvias have vertical flower spikes on a bushy clump of grey-green leaves. Full sun and average to moist soil. Lady's Mantle, Alchemilla mollis has soft green foliage that sparkles with raindrops and sprays of chartreuse flowers. Full sun and average to moist soil. Peonies have big round blooms that contrast nicely with the smaller flowers of a Siberian Iris. Full sun and soil with average moisture. Siberian Iris (lower right) with Salvia (spikey navy flower in the middle), Crambe Martinia (lower left) and Knapweed, Centaurea hypoleuca 'John Coutts' (behind the metal bench). Some gardeners will tell you Fumitory is a nuisance self-seeder, but it is easy to pull out where unwanted. It makes a nice companion at the foot my Siberian Iris. Plant type: Perennial Height: 2.5-3.5 ft Spread: 2-2.5 ft Flower: blue, purple, white, yellow, brown, orange shades and warm shades of pink or reddish-purple Bloom period: Spring Leaf: Silvery blue-green to fresh green Light: Full sun/ light afternoon shade Growing conditions: Moist, rich, somewhat acidic soil Move or Divide: In spring after they flower Problems: Iris Borer USDA Zones: 3-8 I think you'll find the Siberian irises are a wonderful addition to the garden mid-spring. Bookmark this post with a PIN.
Vigorous, Iris pseudacorus, commonly known as Yellow Iris, is a herbaceous perennial with eye-catching bright yellow flowers, 4 in. wide (10 cm), adorned with a brown or violet veining on each fall. Sitting atop sturdy, upright, branched stalks, the flowers create a very striking display. Each flower stalk bears up to 4-12 flowers. The foliage of erect, sword-shaped, gray-green leaves is equally attractive and remains good-looking through the entire growing season. Blooming in great abundance from late spring to early summer, the flowers are followed by large seed pods.
Check out this great guide for planting and caring for your Irises. These hardy flowers are great for low maintenance gardening.
Irises are easy-to-grow perennials with flowers in nearly every color of the rainbow. Discover the most popular irises including tall bearded irises, Siberian irises, Japanese irises, Dutch irises and more. Learn all about planting and caring for iris flowers, plus find 11 elegant irises for your own garden.
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Some plants are long-term givers in the garden—flowering their socks off from spring right through to the last days of autumn. Others burst forth in a brie
