This is an ongoing installation work, which seeks to use a large portion of the embroidered flowers in my 'stockpile' of domestic linens - doilies, tea and tray-cloths, tablecloths etc. I began working on these in November 2016, using embroidery hoops (bought in Malaysia in 2008). I was preparing to

Størrelse: XS (S) M (L) XL (XXL) Overvidde: ca 87 (93) 98 (106) 114 (124) cm Hel lengde: ca 53 (54) 56 (58) 60 (62) cm Axilla summer tee strikkes ovenfra og ned med et rundt bærestykke. Den er ikke strikket høyere i nakken. Ermene strikkes til slutt på strømpepinner eller med Magic Loop teknikk hvis du foretrekker det. Axilla summer tee er monteringsfri. Fordi plagget strikkes ovenfra og ned kan lengden enkelt reguleres. Passformen er klassisk med bevegelsesvidde på ca 5 – 10 cm i forhold til ditt brystmål. Før du setter i gang med strikking er det lurt å måle deg selv for å finne ut hvilken størrelse du bør strikke. For eksempel når brystmålet ditt (eller den bredeste punktet på overkroppen din) er 90 cm bør du strikke størrelse M med overvidde på 98 cm. Axilla summer tee is knitted from top to bottom with a round yoke. Knit the yoke according to the diagram to begin with, when the diagram is finished you continue with stockinette stitch. The tee is not knitted higher at the neck. The sleeves are knitted at the end. Axilla summer tee is assembly-free. When knitting from top to bottom, you can easily adjust the length of the tee. The tee has a classic fit with a range of motion of about 5 - 10 cm in relation to your bust size. Measure yourself before you start knitting so you know which size suits you best. For example, if your bust size (or the widest part of your upper body) is 90 cm, you should knit size M which has a width of 98 cm.

Mary "Van Buren" Haynes, (1867-1916)

Farm to Table? For the eco-conscious, a Dutch startup has literally grown a mushroom coffin that will biodegrade in less than two months, putting a new spin to the phrase "ashes to ashes, dust to dust." Dubbed the "Loop Living Cocoon," the fungal sarcophagus is made from mycelium, the thread-like underground structure of mushrooms, and […]

Đáp án giải chi tiết đề minh họa môn Toán THPT Quốc Gia 2017 50 câu dễ hiểu. Nhiều câu hỏi được giải bằng các phương pháp khác nhau giúp học sinh dễ tiếp cận.Với lượng thời gian ngắn, các bạn nên tìm các cách giải nhanh hơn là giải chi tiết

My name is Kathryn♥ I'm proudly Canadian and a down-to-earth wild child. This is a personal blog and a safe place for all. I hope I have enough love in my heart to make you feel at home.

Judy Garfin Born in Edmonton in 1946, Judy Garfin’s world-wide travels, particularly to Thailand, India, the Middle East, and across America, have inspired her finely wrought painting technique. She…

These 4 rolls are circa 1920-1940 likely more towards the 1920’s. Featuring stunning vibrant green foliate/foliage leaves. Roll #1 - 190”+ on the roll, the end was tattered and shortened Roll #2 - 190”+ on the roll, the end was tattered and shortened Roll #3 - 190”+ on the roll, the end was tattered and shortened Roll #4 - 190”+ on the roll, the roll is nearly full however, it does have a rip spanning roughly 10”-15”. Several scrap pieces will also be included. Each roll is signed appropriately and measure 29.5” w with a useable 28.5” inside margins. These are acquired from a 19th century upstate New York estate which still has 20+ rolls hanging in a substantial guest bedroom. Paul Dumas was a Parisian designer and manufacturer of wallpapers and textiles active between 1906 and 1978. Dumas had a studio at 24-26 Rue Notre Dame des Victoires in Paris, and a printing factory in Montreuil-sur-bois, to the east of Paris.Dumas purchased a disused printing factory in Montreuil-sur-bois in 1906, and then built a larger factory on its land in 1913.The factory burned down in 1913, and Dumas had a new one built the same year. Dumas was a designer of scenery and draperies for the fancy-dress balls held by Paul Poiret.[1] The Montreuil-sur-bois factory produced wallpapers for Poiret’s Atelier Martine, Paul Follot, Lina de Andrada, and Lucie Renudaut, among others. Textiles produced by Paul Dumas are included in the collection of the Cooper Hewitt Design Museum.Wallpapers produced by Dumas in included in the collections of the Musée des arts décoratifs de Paris and the Victoria and Albert Museum, London and the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Dumas had a studio at 24-26 Rue Notre Dame des Victoires in Paris, and a printing factory in Montreuil-sur-bois, to the east of Paris. Dumas purchased a disused printing factory in Montreuil-sur-bois in 1906, and then built a larger factory on its land in 1913.The factory burned down in 1913, and Dumas had a new one built the same year. Dumas was a designer of scenery and draperies for the fancy-dress balls held by Paul Poiret. The Montreuil-sur-bois factory produced wallpapers for Poiret’s Atelier Martine, Paul Follot, Lina de Andrada, and Lucie Renudaut, among others. Textiles produced by Paul Dumas are included in the collection of the Cooper Hewitt Design Museum.Wallpapers produced by Dumas in included in the collections of the Musée des arts décoratifs de Paris,and the Victoria and Albert Museum, London and the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

From the Swallowtail Garden Seeds collection of botanical photographs and illustrations. We hope you will enjoy these images as much as we do.

A while ago I did a tutorial on entrelac, a great way to knit a modular-type of garment with blocks of alternating colors. Now I decided it was time to do a tutorial on entrelac in the round.When working entrelac in the round you're basically just excluding the side triangle, which may be a godsend for some. Entrelac is definitely easier when worked in the round. But, I recommend everyone learn entrelac flat first. It might seem counter intuitive, but when you learn how to knit entrelac flat, and then learn it in the round it will just feel like doing it a little differently. If you learn in the round first, and then decide you also want to learn how to work it flat, it will feel totally alien and be extremely confusing. Materials: I'm using US size 8 Takumi Clover needles, with a 12 inch cable. The size of you needle and cable really depends on your yarn, and the pattern. My yarn is a cream and light pink color of Berella's "4" yarn. Step 1: Cast on a multiple of 8 stitches to fill up your needle. The blocks and base triangles we'll be working, just like my flat tutorial, will be worked over 8 stitches. It provides a nice even number that's not too large, but not so small that the slipped stitch edges are hard to identify. We're going to be working the base triangles identically to how you work the base triangles in a flat piece of entrelac. If you're working on an entrelac hat, you will probably have done a set number of ribbed rounds or something similar. I'm just picking up and just knitting the entrelac. Step 2: Building the Base Triangles 1. Knit 1 stitch 2. Turn your work around, and purl the stitch you just knit. Note: Some patterns and instructions on entrelac will slip the first stitch of each row, including this very first stitch. I personally do not do this because I've found that knitting the first stitch provides a more "stable" triangle for me, after knitting it once I slip purlwise for the rest of the triangle. If you want to slip this stitch and then purl, that's fine too. 3. Turn work. Slip 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch. 4. Turn work, purl back to start. (By start, I mean back to the start of this base triangle, or, in other words, back to the first original stitch that you're slipping.) 5. Turn work, slip 1 stitch, knit 2 stitches. 6. Turn work, purl back to start. 7. Turn work, slip 1 stitch, knit 3 stitches. 8. Turn work, purl back to start. 9. Turn work, slip 1 stitch, knit 4 stitches. Continue in this way, adding 1 more stitch of the set 8 every time you turn to knit. Once you have 8 stitches on the right hand needle, you will stop. Do not turn and purl. You're now done with that base triangle, and you will just pretend for the time being that it doesn't exist anymore. Begin the next triangle on the next set of 8 stitches in the same way as above. Continue your way around the needle, picking up the 8 stitches of each base triangle. At this point it looks like you have an awkward, mushy crown on your needles. Now we're basically going to be filling the little loops formed between each of the triangles with the right slanting diamonds. Step 2: The Right Slanting Diamonds Like I said, there are no side triangles in entrelac worked in the round! Yay! We just get to move on to the central diamonds. This first diamond might throw you off, it's a rebel without a cause, and it wants to be different than all the other diamonds, it wants to be special. The first diamond will be picked up with the right side facing you. All the other diamonds will be picked up with the wrong side facing you, and there's a special maneuver to begin the other diamonds as well, but we'll worry about that later. Because you've been slipping the first stitch purlwise, you should have a very neat little edge of "v's" to pick up from. You'll be inserting your needles between each of the "legs" of this v, and picking up a new stitch with your alternating color. In this case, that's white. As I said, you'll be picking up from the front for this diamond. Insert the right hand needle into the "v" at the base of the last triangle (the one you just finished knitting), with alternating color behind, loop and pull the new white stitch onto the left hand needle. Continue this way, picking up a total of 8 stitches. Now it's time to begin forming the first diamond. Row 1: Purl 7, purl the last white stitch, p2tog (1 white and 1 pink) together Row 2: Turn and knit across the 8 stitches. Row 3: Turn, slip 1 stitch, purl 6, p2tog Row 4: Turn and a knit 8. You'll keep working this way until the pink stitches (or whatever color you're using) are decreased away. Once you have purled the final pink stitch with the white stitch, you will stop. Don't knit back across. It's time to pick up 8 new stitches. This time, and for all the rest of the diamonds this round, you'll be picking up with the wrong side facing you. To begin, yarn back and insert you right hand needle into the first slipped stitch and pull yarn through. (If you're having trouble, this is shown on my original entrelac tutorial, located here: Entrelac Part 1 and Entrelac Part 2) Pick up a total of 8 stitches. Now bring your yarn back to the front, and slip the last white stitch you just picked up onto your left hand needle, and purl it together with the first pink stitch. Row 1: Turn, knit 8 stitches. Row 2: Turn, purl 7, p2tog. Row 3: Turn, knit 8 stitches. Row 4: Turn, purl 7, p2tog. Just as before, continue this until all your pink stitches are gone, on the last p2tog do not turn and knit, just pick up 8 more stitches and do it all again. That's it for now, folks! The rest of the tutorial, for the left slanting diamonds and the ending triangles should be in tomorrow! If you have any questions, email me at [email protected] Also - if you like my tutorials, maybe you'd like to donate a dollar (or more!) for my little yarn fund (which doubles as my Addi needles fund, sigh, maybe someday), which of course will be used for more tutorials! Donate Here. No pressure of course, everything here will remain free. Edit: I would like to put a very special thank you out to Kay Green for being my first donation. I really appreciate it, thank you for the very special night.

It’s no secret that I love botanical prints. But I really, really love botanicals with black backgrounds. Jamie’s store, Furbish MSL It seems like black botanicals are sort of hard to come by? I searched eBay and etsy and then I moved to Amazon. There I stumbled across this book about Mary Delaney. It sounds...

Plates (part col'd) in portfolio

Jill Bliss, an artist living on a small island in the Salish Sea in the Pacific Northwest, is fascinated by the incredible variety of mushrooms that

Lim Zhi Wei (aka Limzy), is a Malaysian artist and photographer based in Singapore. Born in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia, she moved...

Erin Endicott is a contemporary American artist working in textiles.

Catholic veiling, the history of veiling in God's revelation. Jewish and Catholic history of veiling. Liturgical veiling, women veiling, & veiled prayer.

A vivid arrangement of summer flowers in the garden including Roses, Anemones and Clematis.

Oil painting on Canvas One of a kind artwork Size : 100 x 120 x 3cm (unframed) Ready to hang Signed on the front Style : Expressive and gestural Subject : Abstract and non-figurative Large abstract and expressive painting. Inspired by Impressionism, Monet and gardens in Giverny. Oil on canvas. Stretched canvas. Unframed. 100x120cm Lilia Orlova-Holmes is Artfinder's best selling artist. Her paintings are in many collections around the world. Please note, Your order may be subject to import duties and taxes, which are applied when the delivery reaches that destination. I have no control over these charges, and I cannot predict their amount. You will be responsible for the payment of any such import duties and taxes. Please contact your local customs office for further information before placing your order.