Yale, Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library, MS 425, detail of f. 305v. The Fouquet Missal. Bourges, c.1470-1475. Luna, De Sphaera, 15th Century 1501 - From Jardin de Sante - Cubas De Jean The ouroboros is traditionally depicted as a serpent or dragon in the process of swallowing…
This is the time to uncover my big secret of making basket. So I use a very simple yellow wire of 0.4mm width. I use brown acryl paint to get that fine shade of the baskets. If I need an old basket, I use matt paints and chalk powders to cover the shiny surface. The weaving is the same as they use making real size basket.
Albrecht Dürer [German painter, printmaker, engraver, mathematician, and theorist, 1471 – 1528] 4.7 x 3.9 inches watercolor on paper Musee Bonnat, France www.museebonnat.bayonne.fr/index.php Biography: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albrecht_D%C3%BCrer ___ Slight compilation and restoration by plumleaves
Scivias is Hildegard of Bingen's first major work. The 35 images contained in the manuscript illustrate 26 of Hildegard's most vivid visions.
David et Bethsabée
The rule of Akbar & Jahangir saw the great fusion of Mughal-Indian & European Art. The politics of art, and religion gave rise to a secular India.
Your virtual eye on illuminated manuscripts, rare books, and the stories behind them. By Franco Cosimo Panini Editore.
This tutorial came about when I was asked about the thread I used when I made the watering can. It's crochet thread, Coats & Clark, Classic. The miniaturist wanted to weave baskets with it. I suggested using waxed linen, 2 ply. The wicker furniture makers use waxed linen, 3 ply. I purchased some 2 ply months ago wanting to weave baskets but never got around to it. The miniaturist said she couldn't get the 2 ply so I thought I could do the same thing with painted crochet thread. This is the result of a question from a miniaturist and my experimentation. I hope you enjoy it. There's my ball of crochet thread with Delta's Ceramcoat Autumn Brown and Apple Barrel's Golden Brown. I used what I had on hand. The brown glass stain is used to coat the baskets after they are finished, that's just an option. You will need 26 gauge covered wire. I have the kind that is wound with thread. Sometimes it's a little tedious to work with because the thread will unwind. There is a different kind, Fibre-Craft makes it and it has more of a coating. I am told it's easier to work with. She buys it from www.createforless.com. We are going to use mat board for the bottom of the basket. Choose a "basket" looking color and paint the crochet thread and one piece of the covered wire. I just dip my finger and thumb in the paint and run the thread through and hang it up to dry. I cut the thread 24 inches (70 cm) long. It seems an easy length to handle. Four pieces should do for a little basket. Don't forget to paint one piece of the covered wire, too. The next thing to do is find a mould. The ones I used for this project are a cap from my hair spray bottle, I cut the bottom off a Reese's Pieces candy container and I made a mould from odds and ends of Fimo. The moulds should be at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) tall. I like to use plastic because the tacky glue will not stick and I can wipe the glue off. Remember 1 inch equals 1 foot for sizing the basket. You don't want to make the basket too big. You have to fill it after you've made it. A big basket takes more to fill! I made the bottoms from mat board. I traced around the Reese's Pieces container, then drew another line about an 1/8" (4mm) inside the original line. I cut on the new line. For the other moulds I used my circle and oval templates to measure for the bottoms. You want the mat board bottoms to be smaller than the bottom of the mould. Cut the mat board bottom out. See how it's smaller than the bottom of the hair spray cap. We are going to drill holes into the edge of the mat board. (I suppose you could drill into the flat face of the mat board and bend the wire out from the mat board, but I think that would create bulk.) You see my little pin vise drill on the table. This is a good little tool. You will need an UNEVEN amount of holes. We want as many spokes, that's the 26 gauge wire, as we can get into the mat board edge. The circle you see is 7/16" (6mm) in diameter. I have 17 pieces of wire to stick into it. Cut the wire into 1 inch (2.5 cm) pieces, cut one piece 2 1/2" to 3" (63mm to 77mm), that's your handle. After trying to devise a method for measuring where the holes should be I gave up and just started marking free hand. Remember you must have an uneven number. Also, it's better to error on having too many spokes than too few. Use a "T" pin to pierce a hole in the edge. Now, drill a hole, removing paper so that the wire will have a place to be. If you skip this the mat board will be hard to keep together. It will split apart. When you drill, hold the mat board between yours fingers and thumb, squeezing it, almost. You will feel the drill. So, this is what you need to do: Pierce a hole with the "T" pin, drill out the hole, dip the end of the wire into YELLOW WOOD GLUE, get a good amount on the wire and put the wire into the hole. If you are using the wound thread type of covered wire I found if I twisted the wire in the direction that the thread was wound it helped. This twisting kept the thread from unwinding. I've got my first wire in, it's the handle. You see all of my marks? Go around the circle, piercing, drilling, dipping and inserting at every other mark. Be sure you are holding tightly to the circle. When you have half the wire in, place the assembly onto your table and press hard to seal the mat board together. Now, begin again, piercing, drilling, dipping and inserting until you have all the wire in. Press on the mat board again to seal. I like to leave this to dry, if not over night at least several hours. If you don't let this dry adequately the wire spokes will twist while you are weaving causing you headaches. I wanted to show you how the mat board sealed around the wire spokes. After your bottom/spokes assembly is dry you can paint it a "basket" color. Leave this to dry. I don't understand why this picture chose to load in sideways but it did. I can't seem to get it turned so we will just have to be satisfied with it! Center the bottom of the basket onto your mould. Fold the wire spokes down around the mould. You will have to do this at the edge of your table because of the long handle wire. Lift your basket off the mould and tacky glue the end of the painted crochet thread to the bottom. Press the basket back onto the mould. Begin to weave, over, under, over and under. Pull tightly and the basket will begin to grip the mould before you know it. Second row begun. Over, under, over and under . . . . You see, I haven't even gotten up the side and the basket is staying on the mould by itself. I am holding the hair spray cap. Try to keep your weaving even. Every so often set the basket up at eye level and check. If you find you are high on one side use your tweezers to push the thread down. This will only move 2 rows at the most, so check often so you can keep everything looking nice. Doesn't hurt to unweave if you need to neaten things up a bit. You are going to run out of thread. Weave under with the thread that's running out. That's the original thread end you see on the right. Place a new end behind the spoke your ending thread is coming out of and just continue to weave. You will trim the ends off when you finish the basket. I usually weave until I have a 1/2 inch (13 or 14mm) high sides. This is a 6 inch (15.5 cm) basket in life-size. I don't like them too deep, then I have to fill it! See my ends where I started new thread? Carefully PUSH the basket off the mould. If you pull, the basket comes off and then you squeeze the basket misshaping it. If you do this, put the basket back on the mould to reshape. Trim the ends of the thread close to the weaving. Trim off the spokes close to the weaving. Don't leave any wire sticking up. Don't cut your handle off. Use the painted wire for the rim. Bend the wire around the mould. Cut the wire, leaving a little extra, maybe a 1/4" (6 or 7mm). Slip the wire off the mould and straighten it. Apply tacky glue to about 1/2" (13 or 14mm) to start. Start winding the thread around the wire. Continue to wrap the thread until about 1/2" (13 to 14mm) is left of the wire. Apply tacky glue to this end and wrap the thread to the end of the wire. Bend the wire rim around the mould to shape. Place the basket back on the mould and apply tacky glue to the edge. Press the rim down on top of the basket. Trim the ends so they butt, apply glue to the ends. The rim is glued on the outside of the handle. Hold this until the glue tacks and is holding the rim to the basket. Carefully push the basket off the mould. Use small clips to hold the rim together until the rim is dry. To get the length and shape of your handle right, find a cylinder to shape it around. I am using a 7/8" (22mm) dowel here but you could use anything around the house. Trim the handle to the top of the rim. I threaded the crochet thread onto a large eyed needle, a tapestry needle. I want to sew a "X" at the base of the handle. I inserted the needle from the inside of the basket and came out right under the rim. I crossed the thread over and behind the handle. There's the "X". Apply tacky glue to the end of the thread inside the basket. Don't cut the thread that the needle is on. Start wrapping the handle with the crochet thread. Wrap the thread until you have about 1/2" (13 to 14mm) left. Apply tacky glue to the wire and finish wrapping the handle. The handle has been wrapped, don't cut the thread. I didn't even take the needle off while I wrapped the handle. I am going to need it to sew another "X". Apply tacky glue to the rim and press the handle down onto the rim. When the handle has dried sew another "X" on this side of the basket. Trim off the extra thread and apply tacky glue to the end. Touch up any paint you might have missed. I have some little plastic clamps I bought when I first go into miniatures. I know Hobby Builders still carry them. They come in handy for this type of thing. This is the basket made with the Reese's Pieces candy container. These are the baskets made from my Fimo mould. This is the basket made from the cap of my hair spray bottle. I am showing the difference between the baskets that I painted with the glass stain. I painted BOTH baskets with the golden brown, I painted the one on the right with the glass stain, too. I really like this one. This is also showing the glass stain effect. Both baskets were painted with the autumn brown and the one on the right was painted with the glass stain, too. I hope you have fun trying this out. I think you be very happy with your finished baskets. I will have the item number for the Fibre-Craft wire for you with the next post. I have something else to share, how to make a fly swatter. I will try to have it posted tomorrow. Have fun, expand on it, make it better, just keep making minis!!!
Scivias is Hildegard of Bingen's first major work. The 35 images contained in the manuscript illustrate 26 of Hildegard's most vivid visions.
These famous Hildegard of Bingen quotes illustrate the broad spectrum of her contribution to humanity. Her creative power resonates from each one.
This tutorial came about when I was asked about the thread I used when I made the watering can. It's crochet thread, Coats & Clark, Cl...
http://vk.com/wall85261366_3839 Эта фигурка изображает легендарную личность: Огюста Шарля Жозефа Флао де ля Бийярдери (1785-1870), французского генерала и дипломата... Флао имел репутацию одного из величайших соблазнителей во французской армии. Современники описывали его как…
Les vivants et les morts dans les sociétés médiévales (SHMESP 2017) : appel à com’ https://t.co/QQB3iPjnCR
The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City is one of my all-time favorite art museums ever. I would happily live there if they had dormitories (c'mon, living with art? I'd be on that in a heartbeat), and have spent many hours browsing through their expansive collections. Knowing that what the public sees on display is only a tiny fraction of their collection, even with a museum as big as the Met, sends my little art-loving heart swooning. I'd love to see what's in the store rooms; wouldn't you? So, I'm not surprised that this month's challenge piece, an illuminated page called The Conference of the Birds, from the manuscript of the Mantiq al-Tayr of Farid al-Din Attar, calls the Met home. After multiple visits, there are still rooms I haven't been in, the museum is that large. I'm glad that I get a chance to see The Conference of Birds now, though. Isn't it just gorgeous? According to the info page, this particular piece of art is over four hundred years old. Four hundred years old, and the colors are still so vibrant! Mind blowing. Speaking of those colors, rich azure blues, periwinkle, and soft khakis are the first colors that I see. Looking closer, other colors appear, too - a surprising touch of orange and various browns and taupes. I'm definitely loving the deeper blue of the background, but that pop of orange makes me smile. So unexpected! What colors do you see? What colors do you plan to use this month?
‘Beauty Revealed’ is a self-portrait by the American artist Sarah Goodridge (February 5, 1788 – December 28, 1853). Descendants of US Secretary of State Daniel Webster (January 18, 1782 – October 24, 1852) say Goodridge painted it for him. Why is unclear. But we can guess. Robert Remini, in his book Daniel Webster: The … Continue reading "The First ‘Sext’ – Sarah Goodridge’s ‘Beauty Revealed’ (1828)"
Francesco Clemente (born in Naples March 23, 1952) is an Italian and American contemporary artist. Influenced by thinkers as diverse as Gregory Bateson, William Blake, Allen Ginsberg, and J Krishnamurti, the art of Francesco Clemente is inclusive and nomadic, crossing many borders, intellectual and geographical. Dividing his time between New York and Varanasi, in India, he has adopted for his paintings a vast variety of supports and mediums, exploring, discarding, and returning to oil paint, watercolor, pastel, and printmaking. His work develops in a non linear mode, expanding and contracting in a fragmentary way, not defined by a style, but rather by his recording of the fluctuations of the self, as he experiences it. The goal is to embrace an expanded consciousness, and to witness, playfully, the survival of the ecstatic experience in a materialistic society.
In the winter of 2010/2011, De Nieuwe Kerk in Amsterdam will present highlights from one of the world’s most renowned collections of Islamic art. Passion for Perfection will include some 500 objects from the collection of Professor Nasser D. Khalili. From 11 December 2010 to 17 April 2011, De Nieuwe Kerk will glitter with richly illuminated Qur’ans and manuscripts, paintings, gold, jewels, textiles, ceramics, glassware, lacquerware, metalwork, and wood carvings.
Matteo da Milano Breviario di Ercole I d’Este (foglio che raffigura David salmista) (1502-1505) miniatura su pergamena; 34 x 25 cm Zagrabia, The Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters, Croatian Academy of...
This illuminated and illustrated Arabic manuscript of the Gospels by Matthew (Mattá), Mark (Marquṣ), Luke (Lūqā), and John (Yūḥannā) was copied in Egypt by Ilyās Bāsim Khūrī Bazzī Rāhib, who was most likely a Coptic monk, in Anno Mundi 7192 / 1684 CE. The text is written in naskh in black ink with rubrics in red. Painted floral composition ending the preface to the Gospel of Matthew. To explore fully digitized manuscripts with a virtual page-turning application, please visit Walters Ex Libris.
Da Costa hours [1515] - Morgan Library - September
Ronan-Jim Sévellec @Galerie Basia Embiricos
See: bibliodyssey.blogspot.com/2013/11/embellished-matriculati... courtesy of www.e-codices.unifr.ch/en & www.ub.unibas.ch/
Love my new purse [BnF, Fr. 143, 15th c.]
(Fonte: Buzzfeed)
С фантазией у средневековых художников было всё хорошо. Им просто было фантазировать ни тебе интернета, ни телевизора, ни тиражных книг с их штампами и готовыми шаблонами. Маргиналия из Маастрихтского Часослова. Первая четверть XIV века. Нидерланды, Льеж. Британская библиотека.…
The Voynich Manuscript has not yet been decoded. The Voynich Manuscript is a Medieval Codex with unusual drawings, and the meaning of the Voynich Manuscript has remained hidden because it has not been decoded since its discovery in Medieval times as well as in the period following the re-discovery
Through the elements to the beyond
