This is the third in a series being done by Piko America Instead of dating the cars piko has chosen to release a car each year with two Images from the night before Christmas
LEDs - 102 - Use On Board Trains
Dioramen und Modellbau
Driving a N scale train using a N-MOSFET with PWM (analogWrite) to establish the train speed.A Double Pole, Double Throw (DPDT) relay was used to set the di...
The five-carriage train, which is 35,200 times smaller than a real train, nips around an oval route even taking in a ride through a tunnel on its three-quarter inch track.
I've been working on a small mockup to test some ideas for asphalt and street trackage. 📷 (Photos in this post updated by Bill Brillinger from archived images) Original photo: http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i347/Steven_A_S/asphalt4_zps3ea3a39b.jpg /> I used 1mm black craft foam on code 100 track. You can go the full width of the rails and not interfere with the flanges, as long as they aren't pizza cutters. The stuff at Michael's is 2mm (Hobby Lobby's is even thicker), which is fine for roads without track, but for street trackage you'll need to order some 1mm. An eBay seller named Wandy-Foam sells it. 📷 Original Image: http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i347/Steven_A_S/Asphalt2_zpsa56966a2.png The white foam underneath is Readiboard from the Dollar Tree store. While you're there, get some LA's Awesome spray cleaner. Spray it all over the board, wait a minute, and then peel off the paper layers. Do both sides or it may warp. You'll be left with a foam sheet that's a few millimeters thick. I sanded the white foam to give the road a crown. I also sanded in some dips and ruts, though they don't show up very well in the photos. They need to be exaggerated. The paint is water-based craft paint from Michael's or Walmart. You can buy shades of gray paint, but if you want to mix your own, mixing black with white will result in a blueish tint. I mixed black with a light tan (suede) to remove any tint. I dabbed it on using a damp kitchen sponge. Look for a sponge that doesn't have any sort of pattern embossed into it. I also cut the sponge in half, using one half to apply the paint. The other was kept clean and damp and was used to remove paint if needed, such as the dark areas down the middle of the lanes. You want to dab the sponge on something else first, such as a piece of cardboard, to remove some paint (sort of like dry brushing.) 📷 Original Image: http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i347/Steven_A_S/asphalt3_zpsd022e3b8.jpg After the paint is dry, you can create patches and large cracks by tearing the craft foam. If you want fairly straight lines, score the underside of the foam with an X-Acto before tearing it. If you want more irregular lines then don't bother scoring first. To darken the patches I just ran them under the faucet for a minute and rubbed them with my finger to remove paint. Some patches are lighter than the road, so mix up a batch of light gray and dab some onto the patch. For the small cracks I took a straight pin, clipped off the head, and chucked it into my Dremel mototool. I also used the grinding wheel on my Dremel to file a flat spot on the side of the pin point to give it a bit of a cutting edge. Then just etch the cracks into the craft foam. You can control the width of the cracks by how deep the pin penetrates. It helps to have some reference photos when drawing cracks. The street view on Google maps is good for this. You can paint tar lines on some of the cracks with a long thin brush. Use very dark gray instead of black because even tar fades. For the white lines, I didn't want to use decals or chart tape because those would be too perfect for an old worn road. I used masking tape to mask off the lines. I reduced the stickiness of the tape by pressing it to the floor and pulling it up a few times. Even after doing this it took up a little bit of paint which really didn't look that bad. It gave some random wear to the pavement. If you don't want the tape to pull up any paint you should probably seal the foam with clear flat spray paint first. I used the sponge to dab the white paint for the lines. The water in the sponge apparently allowed the paint to bleed a little under the tape making the edges a little messy in spots. I probably should have used a cosmetics sponge for this. Those don't need to be moist to be kept soft. I brushed some real dirt onto road to make it look better. I attached the craft foam to the white foam using spray adhesive. 📷 Original Image: http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i347/Steven_A_S/asphalt5_zpsee3f161d.jpg ETA: I should give credit where credit is due. I originally tried a technique described by Dan Crowley where he brushed tinted plaster on top of craft foam. The rigid plaster wasn't suitable for between the rails, and it didn't really allow for cutting out patches, but it got me to experiment with the craft foam. Steve S
Because of the interest in this project (Details can be found here: https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/sma12-17-channel-configurable-multifunction-5-dcc-decoder-for-servos-12198051 ) more example decoder variations have been added and some start up timing problems have been fixed. The new libraries and examples can be downloaded from here (Updated November 26, 2016): http://mrhpub.com/files/users/geoffbfiles/new-dual-multifunction-decoderv5_4.zip Please see: SMA20 New Low Cost 17 Channel DCC Decoders & Dual Motor,LED, & Servo Control Updated: 6 Ftns/Pin & New Features https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/sma20-low-cost-17-channel-dcc-decoders-ver-6-01-with-soundtriggered-soundstepperdual-motorled-and-12201920 for the latest update information. Installation is the same as described previously. Delete your previous version, replace it with the new one, and load in onto your decoder. Below is a brief description of how I’ve built my new boards followed by a detailed working example for a 7 servo 10 LED configuration that may help people configure their own versions for their particular modeling needs. Also, now check the fourth comment page for the accessory decoder version. Have at it! 📷
Modelismo ferroviario. Model railroad. Modelleisenbahn. Réseau ferroviaire
How to build vines and plant an N-scale vineyard.My Free-moN "Shoo-fly in Sonoma" module is set in the Northern California wine country, so we need some vine...
Since my last scenery update several people commented on my rock face and how I did it so I will do my best to explain how it was done, Fist a couple of photos of the rock face in question. 📷 📷 I start off with a cardboard lattice which is my preferred method for all of my scenery, a good fame to support it is also needed if you are planning on tall vertical scenery. 📷 📷 I then cover the cardboard lattice with cut up paper towels dipped in runny plaster, I try to over lap them by 50% so that by the time I have finished the whole area has two layers. This is where good framing is important as once the water from the plaster soaks into the cardboard it can weaken the cardboard and it will collapse making a big mess ! In the areas where I am just going to apply grass or other scenery products I also apply a layer of sloppy plaster to give a nice solid scenery base but for the areas that are to have rockwork added I just use the paper towels, if you plan ahead and know where your rocks are going to go you can leave the area of lattice bare and attach the rocks straight to the lattice. I use both Plaster of Paris and casting plaster, I use Casting plaster because it is cheap, I use this to dip the paper towels in and for the final scenery shell. Plaster of Paris is used for the rocks as it has a better finish when dry and is easier to shape and carve latter on. I use two different types of molds for the rockwork, First is a latex rock mold made by a local manufacturer - Scenic Textures. The first batch of molds they produced were very similar to home made molds made with Woodland Scenics Latex but now they use a thicker black rubber similar to Woodland Scenics molds. It is the first type that I used on this layout and I found them easy to work with, the second is Woodland Scenics rock molds but I only use their molds if I can blend them into the other molds to create unique rocks, one thing I have learnt is there is nothing worse than someone looking at your layout and saying "I recognize that rock so and so has the same one on his layout ! Spread the plaster over the mold and then press it onto the lattice or dry plaster. Be sure to soak the dry plaster with water prior the placing the wet plaster onto it otherwise dry plaster will soak up all the water from the wet plaster before it dries and it wont bond together, I find this best done with a spray bottle. When the rock mold starts to get warm and the plaster feels firm carefully remove the mold by lifting one corner and gently peel it off. I usually do three or four molds at a time and leave them for a day before commencing. The next step is to blend the rocks into lattice or plaster soaked paper towels. For the lattice I use plaster soaked paper towels pushing them into the edges of the rock and overlapping the dry plaster soaked paper towels already there. when they have dried I then rub a thicker mix of plaster over them to blend it all together. For the plaster soaked paper towels i just rub plaster over them to blend them together. Once everything is dry after two or three days I carve the rocks to blend them in together and to make them more natural looking. Painting and weathering the rocks plus adding the scenery materials to come in part 2 📷 The three woodland Scenics rock molds I used. 📷 Locally made latex rock molds.
The creation of HIntock Branch explained, the philosophy of the modeler, and the practical steps for turning an idea into reality.
The Green Mountain Railroad is a freight and tourist line in upstate Vermont that uses former Rutland Railroad trackage. Learn more about the line here.
Subscribe to never miss a video! || https://gwr.co/YT-SubCheck out the GWR favourites! || http://gwr.co/YT-FavsLocated in Hamburg, Germany, the Largest model...
A model train utilizes light fixtures to make its way through the living room
Re: Show your old Lionel comic ads
Creating realistic cliffs and rock formations in miniature is surprisingly difficult but with these techniques and a bit of time anyone can do it.
Seaboard
Train Table built by Mr Chuck Utes .Most trains circa 1950.Great sound , Green GG One Electric, Steam Trail Blazer 4.6.2.,Hudson 4.6.4., Northern 4.8.4, Atla...
Danke, Henk. Verladung beim Güterbahnhof: 50 591 mit ein gemischter Güterzug kommt an Schwarzburg vorbei: Das Aussicht üb
