Poerhouse for my roundhouse. Photo & modeling by Greg Shinnie.
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Has anybody out there modeled a small Fuel Oil Dealer? If so would you be able to post up some pictures. I have built the Walthers McGraw Oil Dealer kit and am having a bit of a issue with how to place the various pieces. The instructions are a bit vague as to what might go where. I have a area that is wedged shaped,and serviced by one siding track which can hold 3 tank cars, but does have room enough for all of the items. I setup the 4 storage tanks in a straight line as opposed to the kits instructions which puts them in a square pattern. Any help and/or pictures would would be greatly appreciated. Richard
Hallo Rolf, sorry dass ich mich erst jetzt melde,aber ich hab momentan höllisch viel zu Tun Also meine Düsengröße ist 0,2 mm,so kann ic
How to lay scatter, from the school of the blindingly obvious. Another tip from Model Railway Engineer.com, the UK's largest model train blog.
A classic way to make tube cargo is by using straws. In this video we´re adding coffee stirrers and paper straps to enhance realism even further.
Hey guys, My 2 x 8 shelf layout of a part of South Brooklyn waterfront is making some progress small as it may be. Each step seems to open up a whole new array of questions…like…I was ready to bite the bullet and order s…
Q. Where can I find instructions for building a really cheap small turntable? A. You’ve come to the right place, my friend. I originally prepared the following article for publication as part of the story of my Gn15 layout, The SAP Line, which features an ultra-inexpensive (practically FREE) small turntable made from a spare CD […]
Follow along as industry pioneer Allen Keller takes you to some of the greatest railroads around the world! Ride the rails with Allen Keller as he visits some of the best builders and their railroads. Hear from experts as they share their modeling tips and helpful hints with Allen Keller as part of his Great Model Railroad series!
BRIAN NOLAN
Patine d'une 141R Jouef. Peintures AK Interactive, MIG Production et Wilder pour reproduire effets de coulures de fioul, d'eau, de graisse et de cambouis.
www.facebook.com/jointlinetrains/An easy technique on how to make super realistic trees for model train layouts, dioramas, table top miniatures, or wargaming...
Custom painting an Atlas turn table and a scratch-built wood train trestle.
Alterung mit Pastellkreiden |
Model Railroader is the world's largest magazine on model trains and model railroad layouts. We feature beginner and advanced help on all model railroading scales, including layout track plans, model railroad product reviews, model train news, and model railroad forums.
Layout view looking west. The grass is a bit taller than in the previous prototype pic, which was taken five years after my era, after they'd cleared off #4 track a bit to allow transload operations there.
Learn how to use real dead leaves to create a realistic ground cover option for your model railroad scenery, featuring Lou Sassi.
I needed a helix to get between levels on my layout but I had other requirements besides diameter and grade. The helix is at the end of a peninsula and I wanted to have track and scenery on both levels on the outside of the helix. This meant the helix needed to support a smooth backdrop as well as upper foam benchwork, track and scenery. Finally, splice plates weren’t feasible because of the grade and the required vertical spacing. The track radius in the helix 28” with a rise of 3.75” between laps (2.13%). I’m using ½” plywood for the sub-roadbed, giving 3 ¼” vertical clearance. I’m not using any other roadbed because of the tight clearance. I’m not concerned about reducing noise in the helix since that will give operators a clue that the train is still moving. The track is glued directly to the plywood with Woodland Scenics Foam Tack glue. Since I wanted a smooth surface on he outside of the helix, I cut circular segments from plywood and used a glued lap joint to join the segments. I used Cadrail to figure how many segments I could squeeze in then laid out the pattern on plywood sheets. Each segment was 5 ½” wide to allow clearance for vertical spacers and range in length from 225 degrees of a circle to fairly short segments. I was able to get all five laps of the helix from only two 4’x8’ sheets of plywood. 📷 To join them I used a router to mill a 2” wide notch on each end, exactly ½ the depth of the plywood. I was surprised how much sawdust you can generate doing this! Once all the notches were milled, I assembled multiple short segments together to form larger segments about the same size as the biggest pieces. I used Tite-Bond III to glue the joints. The smaller segments were sandwiched between two larger segments to make sure they were nicely circular. The joints were clamped overnight to allow the glue to develop full strength. . Aluminum foil was used between layers to prevent the sandwich from gluing itself together. 📷 Note: I did a small test case prior to assembling all the pieces to see how strong the joints were. After setting overnight the joint itself was stronger than the plywood. When I tried to break the joint, the plywood delaminated before the joint gave way. Tite-Bond III is good stuff. The helix was assembled a lap at a time. I screwed down a segment to spacers on the segment below using thin washers as shims to ensure the helix had a very slight super elevation. All the track joints are soldered to make sure no kinks develop. Next I glued the track in place and used masking tape to hold it in alignment. I placed the next segment in position at this time and glued spacers on top of it. The vertical spacers are staggered so I could glue and screw them from below and above. The spacers also hold the shelf brackets for the upper foam benchwork as well as ¾” standoffs for the backdrop. After allowing the Foam Tack and Tire-Bond to set overnight, I lifted off the next segment and screwed the spacers on from below for strength. The holes for the screws were slightly countersunk so the screw heads would not cause alignment problems. The track masking tape was then removed and the track was wired and tested. I ran bare copper 12 gauge wire on both the inside and outside of the helix track to connect DCC feeder wires. After ensuring the track was electrically and mechanically perfect, the next segment was begun. The final helix section has an increasing radius to allow the track to transition to the foam benchwork on the outside upper level. The grade of this section levels off to meet the foam. 📷 Finally, the shelf brackets and backdrop supports were added to the vertical spacers. The backdrop supports are ¾” thick so that most of the shelf bracket did not protrude through the back drop. Notches were cut in the Masonite backdrop to clear the brackets with drywall tape and spackle covering most of the bracket that was visible. 📷 The finished helix is very strong and stable. It’s a shame it’s hidden by the backdrop. People can still climb into the middle to see all the construction if they desire. If I ever decide to have a dispatcher, the center of the helix will make a nice four foot diameter office hidden from the view of the operators. 📷 George Booth Director of Everything, The New Great Western Railway http://users.frii.com/gbooth/Trains/index.htm
