The Edwardian era is my favorite historical era at the moment 😀 and also the era I know the most about. I try to make all my Edwardian clothes as historically accurate as possible using Edwardian sewing techniques. So I thought I’d write a list about popular Edwardian sewing details and why they were used. … Continue reading 10 Edwardian Sewing Details + Why They Were Used →
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Part of the appeal of watching period shows like Mad Men and Downton Abbey that happen over the course of many years is observin
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Recently I created a puntu vanu (shirred) 16th c. German man’s hemd (shirt) for a SCA competition. I needed to take photo with it on and decided I need an outfit to picture with it. I didn…
Greetings fellow sewists! My name is Sarah and I am a historical costumer and maker of floofy things. I specialize in hand sewing 18th-century gowns using period-appropriate techniques, and you can find examples of these gowns and other costumes that I have sewn on my page @sewlateadoe For those of you who may be…
If you love the look of Victorian sweaters but don't want to knit one: here's my tutorial on how to turn a modern into an 1890s sweater!
Do you want to make your own historical costumes on a budget? These are my 8 tips on how to get started in historical costuming!
PatternMaker Tutorial
Learn how to draft pattern blocks with Pattern Making Basics! A text course with one lesson per day you can start making your own pattern blocks or slopers!
In this short tutorial I'll show you how to mend jeans in the crotch area.
While we've made our newest Onella Blouse free sewing pattern to be paired with our Janet Cosplay, we can't wait to make it again and again this fall.
"SKIRTS. Skirts have generally from two, to two and a half breadths in them, according to the width of the material of which they are made : they are sometimes finished at the bottom with a deep hem, three nails broad, tucks, or worked muslin." - The Workwoman's Guide, 1838 (page 104) Back to blogging after an unintended 7-month hiatus! In this second post for today, I will be documenting how I made a new set of tucked petticoats, and providing a step-by-step tutorial for making your own plain or tucked petticoats, appropriate for 1830s-50s impressions. Believe it or not, I have been making do and mending the same set of mid-19th century petticoats since 2015 (see this throw-back post from the blog archive: 1850s Undergarments). While corsets have come and gone, and my Civil War Era petticoats have already been replaced once, it is past time to refresh the pre-hoop undergarments. With an upcoming "Getting Dressed in the 1830s" later in May, (and an 1840s version already scheduled for 2025), I definitely needed a new, crisp, and presentable set of tucked petticoats, made from my favorite pimatex cotton (which may last another decade!) Historical Inspiration Petticoats (also called "underskirts" or simply "skirts") are often constructed in a similar manner as the outermost or dress' skirt. Layering multiple petticoats adds fullness and body, supporting the dress and creating a soft bell or dome shape, as was fashionable in the Romantic and Crinoline Eras. According to The Workwoman's Guide, published in 1838, petticoats are "made in various ways" and the text continues to offer the following paragraph description on page 104: SKIRTS. Skirts have generally from two, to two and a half breadths in them, according to the width of the material of which they are made : they are sometimes finished at the bottom with a deep hem, three nails broad, tucks, or worked muslin. Sometimes they are bought with cotton runners, woven in them at the bottom, six or eight nails deep, which make the dress stand out, and if the gown is of a clinging material, causes it to hang better. Skirts are generally made with the opening behind, but for elderly persons or servants, it is at the sides, the seams being left unsewed for about four nails from the top ; sometimes they are furnished with pockets on one or both sides ; for a description of which, see Pockets. Skirts may be set on to the body, either equally full all round, plain under the arms, and full at the front and back, or with all the fulness behind. Servants frequently wear their petticoats merely set into a tape round the waist, without any body, and with or without tape shoulder-straps, to keep them up. Under or middle petticoats are also made in this manner. (Aside: I also found the descriptions of nursing petticoats interesting, on page 105, which is somewhat reminiscent of 18th century petticoat construction.) This style of petticoat - with a full skirt cut from rectangular panels, set onto a waistband, closing at the center back, and finished at the bottom with a deep hem and/or tucks - continues to be worn throughout the mid-19th century until gored skirts return (~1864). I rarely see tapes or shoulder-straps by the late 1840s, which could have to do with the return of the natural waist. Here are two extant examples, one plain and one with tucks, from the Costume Institute's collections at the Metropolitan Museum of Art: Left: Petticoat, 1850s. MET Museum, accession number: C.I.60.11.2 Right: Petticoat, ca.1860. MET Museum, accession number: C.I.37.46.103 Construction Details Now for a tutorial and step-by-step instructions on making your own plain or tucked petticoats for 1830s-1850s impressions, using my own as the examples (see italics): Step One: Measurements & Materials When it comes to choosing materials, I like to use a tightly woven cotton like pimatex because it's crisp, smooth, and durable for many years of wear. Otherwise, look for a quality bleached cotton or linen, while others recommend stiffer materials like cotton organdy. For this project, I ordered 10 yards of 45" wide cotton pimatex from Dharma Trading Co, and then machine washed (to shrink and remove factory sizing), dried on high heat, and pressed the fabric. For measurements, there are several considerations: first, determine the finished length. Ideally, you'll want your petticoat to fall between lower calf-length to above the ankle, and should be 1"-2" shorter than your dress. Measure from waist to hem at your center front, sides, and center back over any addition supports/padding that you plan to wear with your petticoats. You may find that the back length is several inches longer than the front. Use the longest measurement for the next step To your longest length, add the following allowances: Hem allowance: 1/2" turn under + 1"-5" for a deep hem Decorative tucks (optional): each tuck will take up twice as much length; for instance, a 1/2" tuck will take 1" of fabric. So, calculate your number of tucks, and multiply times two. Waistline allowance: if you are enclosing the top of the petticoat, add 1/2" seam allowance. If you are planning to fold over the edge to gauge (cartridge pleat), add 1"-2" allowance. Together, these will be the cut length. For my 5-tuck petticoat, I wanted the finished lengths to be 35" at the center front, and 36" at the center back. Subtracting 1.5" for the waistband from 36", my skirt length would be 34.5". To that, I added 1" for the top, 3.5" for the hem, and 5" (for 5 tucks @ 1/2"deep), making my cut length 44" total. Next, you'll want to calculate the width of your petticoat. For the 1830s-50s, the fullness should be between 120"-140". (Check out Kenna's fabulous hem study here: Hem Circumference Resource). I like to work selvedge to selvedge whenever possible, so I used 3 lengths of the 45" pimatex cotton, for a total ~135" hem. Step Two: Cut & Seam Panels I chose to seam my panels by machine for speed, though straight seams are great for practicing hand-stitching. Finish the seams as you please, which could include flat-felling, overcasting by hand, or serging to prevent raveling. Since I am using the selvages, I just pressed my seams open. Leave at least 12"-15" free at the center back seam for an opening (to help get the petticoat on). If your center back is on a seam, finish the sides with a 1/4" double-folded hem, and reinforce the end of the stitching with a bar tack. Otherwise, you will need to cut the 12"-15" slit, and finish the raw edges with binding, placket, or turning a double-folded hem and reinforcing the end. I used the later method, and finished the bottom with a button hole stitch and thread bar, so the slit would not continue to rip. The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing (page 27) has excellent directions for this "binding slits" technique: The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing (page 27) [Click on image to enlarge] Step Three: Hemming Fold-over and press 1/2", then measure, pin, and stitch your hem. My hem was 3" deep, and stitched by machine. I save the hand-hemming for skirt hems, or anything that would show from the outside. Step Four: Stitch Tucks Tucks are essentially just folds stitched in fabric, which can be as tiny or deep, and spaced as close or far apart as you please. When added to the hem of a petticoat, they serve both a decorative and functional purpose - adding visual interest and helping hold skirts out (so they don’t tangle around the wearer’s legs). Measuring from the hem, I pinned and pressed a fold for the first tuck. I was using 1/2” tucks, placed 4” above the hem - which means measuring 5” up from the hem. Measuring the first tuck. Next, stitch a 1/2” away from the folded edge for a 1/2” tuck. Once stitched, press the fold down towards the hem, completing the first tuck. For second tuck, I used the stitch line from the first tuck as my guide (rather than measuring from the hem again). I wanted a second 1/2" tuck spaced 1" from the first, so, my next fold line was 2” above the stitch line. Using a ruler, press and pin the next tuck; then stitch another 1/2” from the folded edge. Adding a second tuck. Repeat the process until all of your tucks are stitched. I put three, 1/2" tucks on one petticoat, and five, 1/2" tucks on the other. Adding more tucks. Finished 3" hem with five (1/2") tucks. Step Five: Balance the Waistline To balance the top edge of the skirt, measure from the hem to waistline, and mark your center front length, sides, and back lengths. For me, this was 35" at the center front, 35.5" at the sides, and 36" at the center back for the longer, 5-tuck petticoat; and 34" CF, 34.5" SS, and 35" CB for the 3-tuck petticoat. Using a fabric marking tool, connect these measurements with a smooth line, and either cut (if you are planning to enclose the raw edges), or fold along this line (if you are gauging/cartridge pleating). While the skirt is still flat, I like to finish the top edges with either hand overcasting or serging to prevent raveling. It can also be helpful to divide and mark the skirt into quarters or eights. Step Six: Gather or Gauge (Cartridge Pleat) To gauge (cartridge pleat), use a strong thread like button twist (I use 6-strand embroidery floss), and stitch two, parallel lines of gathers. You will be sewing through two layers of fabric, and want to start the first row of gathers about 1/4" from the folded, top edge. The second line of gathers should be 1/4" - 3/8" below the first line of stitches. Gauging (cartridge pleating) requires two lines of parallel gathering stiches. Step Seven: Prepare Waistband To make the waistband, you will want to measure your waist over your stays or corset, and then add 1" for overlapping closures, and 1" for seam allowances - this is the total length. For a 1" wide band, cut 3" (including 1/2" seam allowance; for a 1.5" wide band, cut 4" (including 1/2" SA). Fold the waistband in half, right sides together, and stitch around the edges. Turn right sides out, press flat, and stitch the waistband closed. Step Eight: Attach the Skirt Begin by pinning your skirt to the waistband. I like to mark quarters (and eights) on the waistband to line up with the skirt markings. Evenly distribute the gathers across the waistband. Gathers evenly distributed and pinned to the waistband. Pinning gathers, detail. Stitch through each pleat's fold, securing the skirt to the waistband. Every inch or so, I like to do a double stitch through a pleat for extra security. Tie off the gathering threads when finished. To attach the skirt, stitch through the fold of each pleat, whipping it to the waistband. Helpful illustration from The Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing Book II (page 22) Gauged skirt, outside. Gauged skirt, inside. Finished petticoat! Step Nine: Button & Button Hole Closure Add a button and button hole closure (or ties) to finish your petticoat. Pro tip: if you machine stitch your button holes, I like to apply a little fray check around the button hole to prevent fraying, in case I cut threads! I also find this binds the stitching (like glue), and is less prone to stretching over time. Button & button hole closures Enjoy your new tucked petticoat - or in my case, set of tucked petticoats! Completed Project Pictures Here's the 3-tuck petticoat: Here's the 5-tuck petticoat overtop: Tucks at the hem, detail. Have you ever made a tucked petticoat? Share your petticoat project, or if you have any questions on the process, in the comments below! Button closure, detail. Thank you for reading & special thanks to our generous patrons! Like what you see here and want to support the creation of future content, historical costumes, and fashion history programming? Consider joining us over on Patreon with pledges starting at $2/month, and you'll also unlock exclusive content like bonus blog posts and more! Follow @youngsewphisticate on Facebook & Instagram for regular project updates.
Are you wondering how to add lace trim like in earlier times? Learn 6 different vintage ways to insert lace and improve your heirloom sewing skills!
If you love the look of Victorian sweaters but don't want to knit one: here's my tutorial on how to turn a modern into an 1890s sweater!
Ultimate Kirtle Pattern Lady Asrune Russtikus-dotta Pennsic [email protected] Kirtle: (Kyrtel) is a fitted tunic-like dress with variations found from the 1350s all the way up to 1650s. It was a staple of the medieval wardrobe.The Kirtle was worn by all different classes of women all over Europe. Typically, a chemise, or underdress, is worn underneath. An overdress such as a “houplandie” or “cotehardie” would be worn on top when needed. The kirtle acts like a bra. The body of the dress can be 2, 4, 8 or more pieces. They can be lined, or not. They can have long, short, or no sleeves. They can have a waist seam, or not. They can be laced or buttoned, on the side or in front. They can be elaborate or simple, heraldic or plain. In short, there are a lot of options to work with when it comes to Kirtles that are all “period,” and can be made with just one pattern! The Pattern (Draping method) Fabric- Linen (most common), Silk, or Wool. Leather is also period, but rare. Avoid synthetic fabrics. You will need 3-8yds of fabric to make a kirtle. You will need 1-3yds to make the pattern. American Size Yards for dress Yards for pattern Size 2-6 3-4 1 Size 8-14 5-6 2 Size 16-24 6-8 3 Before you start- Make sure you have · Lots of pins! · 1-3yds of linen (the lighter the color the better, so you can write on it) · Scissors · A sharpie or fabric marker · A friend to pin you up · And a good bra on Step 1: Take your measurements Bust (A) Waist (B) Hip (C) Sleeve (H) Upper Arm (O) Wrist (N) Waist to floor (K-M) 1. Divide you Hip measurement (C) by 4, add two inches and cut 4 rectangles of fabric of that width. This should make four large bits of fabric, that combined are large enough to cover your back and front. They should be long enough to cover your bottom. Hip/4 + 2in = Rectangle width 2. Pin 2 rectangles together to form the back of your pattern. Pin the other 2 together to make the front. 3. Get a friend to center and pin the back and front pieces together at the shoulders on you. 4. Have you friend pin the sides closed, being careful to keep both sides even. You should look like this: 5. Pinch the fabric on the pined “seams,” to tighten the fabric around you and re-pin. Work slowly, be careful to keep the sides even, and the front and back centered. 6. Tighten the shoulder until you feel “lifted”. You should look something like this: 7. Get a sharpie or fabric marker, and mark: l Your natural waist line. (An easy way to do this is hold a string around you, it will automatically go to the smallest part of your waist.) l Where you want your neckline(s) to be. High(neck), low(normal), and sexy (boobs) are the three I usually mark. TIP: if you leave the neck high, you can use this pattern for a doublet too! l The joint where your arm meets your shoulder. This is where your sleeve should start. 8. Trace all the pinned seams on both sides with your marker. Make sure you get front, back, sides and shoulders, both sides. 9. Remove all the pins. 10. Compare the two front pieces and the two back pieces by laying them out. There will be slight differences between them. Chose the front and back you like best, or try to mediate between them. This will be your final pattern. 11. Cut the pattern out, leaving 5/8in (or whatever you like to use) seam allowance. 12. Put your name, the date and your seam allowance on the pattern. Label back and front and viola! You’re done! The Sleeve 1. Make a “T” with your Sleeve measurement. One line horizontal. One line vertical. 2. Center your wrist measurement at the bottom. 3. Center your Upper arm measurement at the top. 4. Add seam allowance 5. Measure 1 in down and 2 in up from the top of your “T” and draw a curve OR… 6. Better yet, take a piece of string, measure the sleeve hole on your new made pattern and cut to the exact length on string. Then move the string to fit a curve like the one above on your horizontal “T” line. The Chemise Use the same pattern as you did for the kirtle, but cut it on the bias for more stretch and no closures. If you don’t have the fabric to do this, then add 1-3in to the width of the pattern. You may also want a slightly looser sleeve. Modifications: 1. You can shorten the sleeves, simply cut off the sleeve pattern where you want it. 2. You can add gores to make a fuller skirt. I usually add 4 gores; front, back, and sides, for the full “princess effect” 3. You can also make it into more pieces, this makes a more fitted garment and can help when you have narrow fabric width. It also serves to allow you to add more gores. (think princess seams) 4. Adjust the neckline shape. 5. Use buttons instead of laces, you’ve got a cotehardie! TIP: wrap pennies in bits of scrape fabric from your dress for the perfect buttons! 6. Try hand sewing your button holes by pushing a hole through the linen and working your way around, you’ll be surprised how easy it is! (on that note, try to avoid using metal grommets, they were not used on dresses in period) 7. Cut the pattern off at the waist and make a doublet! How you can use your kirtle pattern drawings by Heather Morgan for this class, all right reserved Kirtles in History (in broad sweeping terms, not an end all be all) Kirtles begin to appear in the early 1300s all over Europe. The fashion seems to have started in the north and worked its way south to Italy by 1400. Like all fashions Kirtles are first worn by the upper class only, but work their way down to the lower classes fairly rapidly. 1350-1400: The most commonly seen kirtle style from this time has short sleeves, a wide scoop neckline, no waist seam and closes in the front, usually with laces. Solid colors. (This style of Kirtle stays in fashion up until the 1450s with the lower classes of women.) 1400-1450: Long sleeves become more common. Wide scoop neckline, no waist seam, closes at the front usually with laces. They were mostly of solid color, but can also be found in heraldic styles (such as quartering), cloth of gold, and other patterned fabrics. 1400-1450: the neckline seems to narrow into a closed scoop or a “V” shape, and side closures become more popular. We also start to see the sleeveless kirtles, often with detachable sleeves. So you can “dress up” your look. 1450-1500+: brings the waisted kirtle into vogue. At first, the skirts attached to these kirtles were pieced skirts that were wider at the hem and narrowed into the waist. However, there is a rapid progression to gathered and then pleated skirts. The waisted kirtle is used in many forms, for many styles all the way into the 1650s. Kirtles in Action Front laced, classic Kirtle. Notice the fake sleeves. German style, the yellow kirtle is likely a side laced kirtle with a wide square neckline. The overdress or kampfrau uses the same pattern with a scoop neckline and a closed front lacing or hooks. waisted square neck sleeveless Kirtle, working class . Notice the wide lacing. Two short sleeved working class kirtles. The left is a looser pull over gown, the right kirtle is front laced with a wide scoop neckline. You get a good look at the Chemise here too. Waisted Kirtle Waisted Kirtle with short sleeves and box pleats Split Skirt Wide front lacing and cloth of gold underskirt with metal eyelets Heraldic Kirtles Bi-colored Kirtle. Alternative Pattern theories: The Quick and Dirty Geometric Method-Some people will swear by this method as the “most period” due to its simplicity, and there are some extant examples....but there are extant examples of other styles as well. It is a perfectly wonderful way to make a early period kirtle, it is NOT however form fitting enough to be a bra substitute. In my opinion it's a less flattering method as a result, but great for looser wear-around-the-camp dresses. 1. Fold you fabric lengthwise. 2. Divide your Hip measurement by 4 use that for width of rectangles 3. Cut either 2 large rectangles (leave the fold), OR 4 smaller rectangles (cut on fold)* 4. Cut 4 gores, the height of your waist to floor (W-F) measurement, and width desired. 5. Cut 2 rectangular sleeves the width of your arm-2 +1 in. 6. For long sleeves, make sleeve as long as arm-1 + 1in, and narrow to wrist + 1in 7. Cut 2 diamond shaped gussets 2-4in across. *if you would like a front lacing kirtle, you must cut at lease the front into 2 pieces. Measure and draft Method 1. Patterning the good old fashion way! Instead of draping, take all of your measurement form the first chart and plot them out on graph paper. Continue as before. This method is great if you don't have a buddy. If you measure very carefully, you'll get something very close to the form-fitting Kirtle like you would get from draping. I find that this method doesn't always produce the support that I want, and generally has more wrinkles but they still look nice!
~ Circa/Date: 1974 ~ Details: SAILOR PANTS ~ Size/Measurements (Inches): ~ Size: 28 ~ Waist: 28″ ~ Hip: 38″ (inches) ~ Please Note: ~ You are buying a ‘Professional Digitally Reproduced’ copy of this sewing pattern. Copied from the original sewing pattern. Produced in Full Scale Pattern Pieces ready to cut with full instructions […]
Download this free corset pattern and start constructing your own corset pattern now - Also, view our video tutorials on corset making.
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Simplicity 9544; ©1971; Young Junior/Teen's Jiffy Mini-Dress and Short Shorts: The mini-dress with back zipper has high round neckline, short set-in puff sleeves gathered with elastic casings and slit below center front seam. The short shorts have elastic waistline casing. V. 1 features optional rick-rack trim. V. 2 has embroidered eyelet edging. V.3 is trimmed with novelty "love" trim. Vosa Style Emporium Sz 12 Patterns from the Past Size 9/10 [insert your photos of this pattern made up] [inser
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In this short tutorial I'll show you how to mend jeans in the crotch area.
