First of all, apologies if some of this is a bit awkward to read. It’s my first time using this site so I’m still getting used to the formatting. Secondly, I hope you enjoy this pattern…

Notes: You are working into the chain created for each stem or leaflet unless otherwise noted. I will add more photos and possibly, a video tutorial later. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate…

Hey there, fellow craft enthusiasts! Today, I’ve got something super adorable and sunny to share with you – a crochet sunflower keychain. Trust me, it’s the perfect little project to add a pop of colo

This elegant crocheted wineglass rose is perfect for home decor or thoughtful gifts. Its delicate petals and realistic leaves create a stunning, everlasting bloom. The easy-to-follow pattern is ideal for intermediate crocheters, adding romance to any space.

Free amigurumi patterns... You can find interesting ideas, tutorials and crochet tutorials about amigurumi otter here. Lots of amigurumi free crochet patterns are waiting for you.

It's 2020, so "hustle like the demogorgon is chasing you ..." Get the free pattern via Ravelry, designed by Karina Reinoso. More Stranger Things Patterns: This post contains affiliate links.

In today's Crochet 101 lesson, I'll teach you how to increase and decrease stitches. This is helpful when it comes to working on a variety of projects.

This .PDF CROCHET PATTERN is written in ENGLISH, in STANDARD AMERICAN crochet terms. With this very detailed, intermediate pattern (this is not a pattern for beginners), you can make a seamless, super-realistic stoat in both winter and summer coat and if you skip the black brush-tip for the tail, you can make a weasel too! Size of finished doll: If you use the recommended yarn, your stoat will be 6.3 inch / 16 cm standing. Materials For this crochet animal you’ll need worsted weight yarn (Lètt Lopi) and an E US/3.5 mm crochet hook. You’ll need three colours: white 0051 (1/3 of a 100-yard skein), acorn brown 0053, 1/3 and a little bit of black sheep heather 0052. For the nose you can use the black sheep heather. For the eyes I’ve used 8 mm animal eyes. You will also need fibrefill. A pipe-cleaner to make the tail bendable is optional. The crochet pattern contains An intro with useful info. List of materials, tools and accessories needed. Brand and colour numbers of the needed yarn. A clear and colour coded description of how to crochet and assemble the animal. Pictures and illustrations to help getting everything right. Gauge is unimportant for this pattern. If the pieces are crocheted tightly enough, they will not gape visibly when stuffed. You can make a little test swap to be sure. Here you can find my other patterns: https://www.etsy.com/shop/SonsPopkes?ref=hdr_shop_menu This is my blog with free patterns, extra info and much more: http://sonspopkes.com This crochet pattern is available for Instant Download. When your payment is completed you will receive an email with all the information needed to download your file. This email will be sent to the email address registered with your Etsy Account.

Introducing the Obelisk Pullover—a classic, luxurious textured crochet sweater pattern.Get The Pattern • Purchase this pattern on my website, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, WeCrochet, Annie's Craft Store, and Etsy. • Share your project on the Ravelry project page. • Wanna make it later? Pin it! **note that some links may be affiliate links that allow me to make a small commission at no cost to you; however, this influences my opinion in no way, and I will always express an honest relationship with the pr

*The pattern PDF will be delivered to you via email after purchasing. This henley-inspired pullover is a classic piece you’ll keep in your wardrobe for years to come. The slouchy fit, nautical stripes, and buttoned placket make for a cozy sweater that’s fit for the land or the sea. * Please note that buttons are not included.

These Autumn Pumpkin Wall Hanging Crochet Patterns are a stylish and festive way to spruce up your living space for Halloween or Thanksgiving.

Do you love the alpine stitch? Learn how to make this crochet alpine stitch blanket with this free crochet blanket pattern!

I posted an adorable maple leaf amigurumi pattern earlier this year and when I spotted this maple leaf applique by Ms Premise-Conclusion, I knew I had to post it too. Canada Day is past, but 150th birthday celebrations are happening all year. Get the FREE pattern. More Free Canada Patterns: This post contains affiliate links.

This modification for the Mama Mabel chicken crochet pattern, includes a free pattern for crochet eggs and instructions to create a pocket at the base of the body so they can be tucked inside for safe keeping!

The My Number One Jumper is a cute, flirty jumper perfect for all ages. Suitable for beginners. This pattern uses basic crochet stitches so would be ideal for anyone new to creating crocheted clothing. The pattern works up quickly and with zero sewing! The pattern will be emailed to you in UK terminology in child sizes (3-6months-5-6years) and adult sizes (XS-4XL). Yarn required: DK (acrylic or cotton) Pattern includes gauge.

Easy crochet raglan sweater. Crochet top-down raglan in one piece with no seaming! Free crochet sweater pattern and video.

This crochet Pikachu will instantly catch your eye with its vibrant colors and playful design. Picture a delightful blend of Pikachu's familiar yellow fur and

Free crochet amigurumi patterns... Great ideas about amigurumi flamingo and step-by-step crochet tutorial are here. You will have no trouble crocheting the free amigurumi patterns on our blog and you will have a great time.

A short sleeve polo shirt with short sleeves. Crafted in a crochet fabric for a summery aesthetic.SKU: BWW02072-124-30

Yogi Bear. Yet another adorable cartoon made during the golden age of cartoons that people can't seem to get enough of. I love Yogi, so I was extremely shocked not to find a single pattern for him anywhere. So being the designer that I am, I made one. And as always it's here for all of you to use for free. Notions: G hook F hook Light Brown and Tan and light Green yarn Small amount of Black yarn Black and White felt Tapestry needle Stitch marker Fiber fill (I always forget to put that on the list) Hot glue gun Body: With LB yarn and G hook, ch 2, sc 6 in second ch from hook. Rnd 1: Inc around Rnd 2: Sc, inc, round Rnd 3: Sc 2, inc, around Rnds 4-9: Sc around Rnd 10: Sc 3, inc, around Rnds 11-13: Sc around Rnd 14: Sc 4, inc, around Rnds 15-19: Sc around Rnd 20: Sc 5, inc, around Rnd 21: Sc 4, dec, around Rnd 22: Sc 3, dec, around Rnd 23: Sc 2, dec, around Rnd 24: Sc, dec, around Stuff. Rnd 25: dec around Fasten off and sew hole closed. Nose: With black yarn and F hook, ch 2, sc 6 in second ch from hook. Rnd 1: Sc around Rnd 2: Inc around Switch to tan yarn Rnd 3: Inc in next 3 sts, sc in rest Rnd 4: ( Sc, inc) 3 times. sc in rest Rnd 5: Sc around Rnd 6: Sc, dc inc, dc 2, sc, sl st 3, sc, dc 2, dc inc, sc, sl st 5. Fasten off and lightly stuff. Sew unto front of head. Legs: (Make 2) With LB and G hook, ch 2, sc 5 in second ch from hook. Rnds 1-5: Sc around Rnd 6: Inc around Rnds 7&8: Sc around Row 9: Sc, ch 1 and turn. Sc 4 across. Rows 10&11: ch 1, sc across. Fasten off and sew to body. Now you should have something that looks like this (Lower right) . If you fold the long skinny part to the left, like the left picture, and sew it in that position you'll have the left leg. Fold it to the right and you'll have the right leg. The tab at the top helps make the leg flow naturally into the body when to sew it. Arms: (Make 2) With LB yarn and G hook, ch, sc 5 in second ch from hook Rnds 1-5: Sc around Rnd 6: Sc, inc around. Sc in last Rnds 7-11: Sc around Row 12: Sc 4, ch 1 and turn Row 13: Sc 4 across. Fasten off and sew to body Ears: (Make 2) With LB and G hook Ch 2, sc, dc 2, sc in second ch from hook. Fasten off and sew to head. Hat: With LG and G hook, ch 2, sc 6 in second ch from hook Rnd 1: Inc around Rnd 2: Sc, inc, around Rnd 3: Sc 2, inc, around Rnd 4: (in back loops only) sc around Rnd 5: Sc around Rnd 6: (in front loops only) [sc, hdc, dc inc, dc 3 in next st, dc, dc inc, hdc, sc, sl st 3] repeat Fasten off. Cut out and glue a strip of black felt to the hat. Collar & Tie: For the tie, (make 2) ch 7 and sl st in second ch from hook and rest. Fasten off. Glue together and then glue to Yogi. The collar is simply a white piece of felt glued to Yogi and over top the tie. I liked the felt because it looks really clean. Eyes and Mouth: There're felt. I'm sure you can figure out the rest. And there you have it. Yogi Bear. Don't forget to contact me if you have any problems with the pattern or any questions. Have fun at JellyStone Park!

Hey-o!!! This beautiful Saturday, I'm bringing you a pattern for George the Goose. George came about because a) I've been really wanting to create a toy for my son b) his nickname is goose and c) I've never created a toy in my 15 plus years of crocheting! For some reason I've just never

Hey you! On these pages you’ll find step-by-step instructions to crochet this amazing ship! I hope you like them! Includes one PDF file, 42 pages. Pattern is written in English. I included how to make unusual stitches, it has detailed instructions, more than 60 step-by-step photos and useful introductions plus a link for a support video, explaining how I made the sewing. Size 22cm (hight) , 2.2 mm crochet hook. Difficulty: advanced If you have any questions, message me anytime and I will answer you.

Explore Your Crochet's free patterns blog and discover inspiring ideas to ignite your creativity. Read our post, 'Little Bird Ornament Free Crochet Patterns'.

Free amigurumi patterns... You can find interesting ideas, tutorials and crochet tutorials about amigurumi goose here. Lots of amigurumi free crochet patterns are waiting for you.

Discover the joy of crochet with our list of 30-minute crochet projects for beginners! Plus, video tutorials to help you in every step!

Ok y'all. Here he is. Lugia. I'm sorry that my pics are always crummy, but hey, I'm not a photographer LOL and I'm stuck with really old cameras that don't work unless they feel like it. This doll ain't for the faint of heart. It's better suited to experienced crocheters with a few serious dolls under their belts! He's larger than all the other pokemon I've made in the past and a little more difficult as well. I try to explain everything as well as I can in the pattern instructions, just take it one step at a time and I'll try to help you as much as I can... just post if you have any questions! I've been sick all week, and typing this wasn't easy while feeling so badly, so if you find anything that's wrong, out of place or just plain confusing - that's probably why - and let me know I'll fix it! Ok guys, here goes.... and good luck! :D MATERIALS: WW yarn in white (at least a full skein) medium blue and dark blue G hook Fiberfill Embroidery thread Small pieces of felt in white and black Sewing thread to match colors Yarn Needle Heavy Gauge wire for wings (optional) NOTES: Gauge isn't very important for this project, as long as your choice of yarn, hook and individual tension result in a firm consistent stitch that won't allow the stuffing to show through. Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row. Lugia is one of the pokemon whose original 2-D design is not particularly well suited to 'plushie' form. He will be unbalanced. This doll is probably best designed to be suspended with fishing line or other 'invisible' material from a shelf or ceiling as opposed to 'sitting'. You can try weighing down his backside, but the wing structure will still be a nightmare. Some may be able to construct a wire frame for the inside of the wings that will help hold them out, but the sheer weight of the wings is still going to pull heavily on the sides of the body causing it to deform over time. Typically, I join my rounds when making dolls. If you're more comfortable with using continuous rounds, by all means go ahead, however, in this particular doll you may have some issues with the continuous rounds when working the 'wings'. If at all possible, you should probably join your rounds at least when crocheting the wings in this pattern. Be prepared to fiddle and fuss a bit with constructing this doll. As I said, it's not an easy one to make, but it DOES work. This pattern isn't well suited for a toy that will be 'played with'... it's best used for display purposes only. Lugia's HEAD/BODY and TAIL are all crocheted as a single unit. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8) Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc (12) Rnd 4: 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, 3 sc in last sc (18) Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (18) Rnd 6: 3 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 16 sc, 3 sc in last sc (22) Rnd 7: sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in last 10 sc (24) Rnd 8-12: sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18) Stuff head at this point. Stuff firmly and shape while stuffing (this is your only chance to shape the head, so make sure you're happy with it before going on). Continue stuffing neck, body and tail as you progress through the pattern, just make sure that you have the shape you want as you stuff. The neck needs careful attention, as it needs to be stuffed quite firmly (particularly where it joins the head and the body) in order to keep it from 'lolling' later on. Rnd 14-16: sc in each sc around (18) Rnd 17: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (15) Rnd 18-26: sc in each sc around (15) Rnd 27: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18) Rnd 28: sc in each sc around (18) Rnd 29: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21) Rnd 30: sc in each sc around (21) Rnd 31: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 32: sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 33: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30) Rnd 34: sc in each sc around (30) Rnd 35: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36) Rnd 36: sc in each sc around (36) Rnd 37: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42) Rnd 38: sc in each sc around (42) Rnd 39: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48) Rnd 40-50: sc in each sc around (48) Rnd 51: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42) Rnd 52: sc in each sc around (42) Rnd 53: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36) Rnd 54: sc in each sc around (36) Rnd 55: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30) Rnd 56: sc in each sc around (30) Rnd 57: sc in next 13 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 13 sc, dec over last 2 sc (28) Rnd 58: sc in each sc around (28) Rnd 59: sc in next 12 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 12 sc, dec over last 2 sc (26) Rnd 60: sc in each sc around (26) Rnd 61: sc in next 11 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 11 sc, dec over last 2 sc (24) Rnd 62: sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 63: sc in next 10 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 10 sc, dec over last 2 sc (22) Rnd 64: sc in each sc around (22) Rnd 65: sc in next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 9 sc, dec over last 2 sc (20) Rnd 66: sc in each sc around (20) Rnd 67: sc in next 8 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 8 sc, dec over last 2 sc (18) Rnd 68: sc in each sc around (18) Rnd 69: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 7 sc, dec over last 2 sc (16) Rnd 70: sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 71: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 6 sc, dec over last 2 sc (14) Rnd 72: sc in each sc around (14) Rnd 73: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, dec over last 2 sc (12) Rnd 74: sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 75: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc (10) Rnd 76: sc in each sc around (10) Rnd 77: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, dec over last 2 sc (8) Rnd 78: sc in each sc around (8) Rnd 79: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (6) Rnd 80: sc in each sc around (6) Rnd 81: dec over next 2 sc around (3) HEAD CREST: Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4) Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6) Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8) Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10) Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12) Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14) Rnd 7: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc (16) Rnd 8: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in last sc (18) Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (18) F/O and weave in ends. You can add a tiny bit of stuffing here if you wish to create more of a rounded crest for the head, Or you can flatten the crest and pin in place to back of head in position desired (use photos for help with placement) WINGS (make2): (If you wish to add a wire frame to the wings, you will need to plan that frame to be introduced before crocheting the fingers. I recommend a wire frame that will go from wing tip to wing tip, through the 'body' of the doll. Otherwise, you won't have the needed strength to hold up these heavier wings. If you're going to be suspending the doll in the air, then the wire frame can be omitted, because you can use the strings as a way to 'position' your wings as if in flight) Rnd 1: Chain 7. Sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain across. Turn work and working down the 'unused' side of the foundation chain, sc in the same chain as the last sc of other side, and each remaining chain across. Join to first sc with slip stitch. (12 sc) Rnd 2-6: sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (14) Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (14) Rnd 9: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (16) Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 11: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18) Rnd 12: sc in each sc around (18) Rnd 13: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21) Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (21) Rnd 15: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 17: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (28) Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (28) Rnd 19: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32) Rnd 20: sc in each sc around (32) Rnd 21: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36) Rnd 22: sc in each sc around (36) Rnd 23: sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40) Rnd 24-26: sc in each sc around (40) Do not fasten off. Begin first 'finger': Flatten wing 'end' – matching up your sc stitches. You will be working through only one 'side' at a time, but using both sides for each finger. Rnd 1: sc in next 5 sc. Turn work so that other side is now facing you, sc in next 5 sc of the other side of the wing (what was the last 5 sc of the previous round) and join with slip stitch to first sc of 'finger' (10 sc) Rnd 2-8: sc in each sc around, joining each round with slip stitch in first sc around (10) Flatten end of 'finger'. Working through all layers, 4 sc across, slip stitch in last sc. F/O. Weave in ends. Remaining Fingers: Attach yarn to first stitch immediately to 'left' of finger just completed. Sc in same stitch as joining and complete same as rounds 1-8 of first finger. For 'thumb'. Rnd 1: Chain 6. Sc in second chain from hook and each chain across, turn and working down other side of foundation, sc in each chain across. Sl St to first sc of round (10) Rnd 2-10: sc in each sc around (10) Flatten end of thumb. Working through all layers, 4 sc across, slip stitch in last sc. F/O. Weave in ends. Pin and sew thumb to wing on underside, just below and between first and second finger. Wings were not stuffed. Wings are attached to side of body near base of neck as shown. Just pin for now. LEGS (make 2): Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 6: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (27) Rnd 7-9: sc in each sc around (27) Rnd 10: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24) Rnd 11: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (21) Rnd 12: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18) Rnd 13: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12) Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (12) Stuff leg moderately. Leave opening. F/O weave in ends. FOOT (make 2): Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 5: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (21) Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18) Rnd 7: sc in each sc around (18) Rnd 8: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (15) Rnd 9: sc in each sc around (15) Rnd 10: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12) Rnd 11-12: sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 13: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (9) Stuff foot moderately, but not too much. Just enough to allow it to hold the shape you desire. Using white thread, create the 'toes' by taking three large whipstitches over the 'ends' of the feet. Go back and do the same with black thread to create the 'toes'. Sew the foot to end of leg as shown. BELLY DECORATION: Using medium blue: Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40) Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48) Begin points: Row 1: Sc in next 8 sc, turn (8) Row 2: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc of row, turn (6) Row 3: dec over first 2 sc, sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc of row, turn (4) Row 4: dec over first 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc, turn (2) Row 5: dec over 2 sc (1) F/O. Weave in end. Attach yarn to first stitch to immediate left of point just made, sc in same stitch as joining and complete second point same as for first: Attach yarn to any stitch along side of plate. Sc in same stitch as joining, and evenly around outside – using three sc in the tip of each 'point'. Join with sl st to top of first sc made. F/O and weave in ends. Pin to body over chest/stomach area. PLATES ALONG BACK (make 10): Using darker blue: Chain 7. Sc in second chain from hook and each chain across (6) Rows 2&3: sc in each sc across (6) F/O and weave in ends. SPIKES ON TAIL: Using darker blue: Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (3) Rnd 2: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (4) Rnd 3: sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc (5) Rnd 4: sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (6) Rnd 5: sc in first 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (7) Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (7) F/O and stuff very lightly. Pin to tail as shown. EYE FEATHER (make 2): Chain 11. Slip stitch in second chain from hook, sc in next 2 chs, hdc in next 2 chs, dc in next 2 chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, slip stitch in last chain. Turn work and working back up the other side of the foundation chain: slip stitch in same ch as last slip stitch, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next 2, hdc in next 2, sc in next 2, slip stitch in last. F/O and weave in ends. Pin to head as shown in photos. ASSEMBLY: All parts need to be pinned to the doll's body before sewing any on. With a doll this large, it's really important you get everything just the way you want it :D Figuring out the part placement isn't very hard (especially after what you've been through already LOL), just refer to the photos and get everything the way you want ! Then you can sew it all down. Eyes are cut from pieces of felt in the shapes shown. Mouth is embroidered on last. Lugia and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo. This pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (September 2010). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Update: jetzt auch in Gr. 80/86 Du kaufst eine detaillierte Strickanleitung für diesen Romper in den Größen Newborn bis 68 und 80/86 Der Romper hat den großen Vorteil “mitzuwachsen“ Die Anleitung ist anfängertauglich ;-). Du solltest rechte, linke Maschen und Zunahmen stricken können. Die Art der Zunahmen wird dir in einen Video erklärt (Videolink) Du benötigst ca 70g, 130g Wolle mit einer Lauflänge von 400m/100g. Wollempfehlung Merino/ Seide von blida_design oder vergleichbares Garn Stricknadel und Nadelspiel der Stärke 4 Die Anleitung ist in deutscher Sprache. Die Fotos (s. o.) sind teilweise von Blida_design, teilweise Kundenbilder. Vielen Dank dafür