This weekend I figured out how to do something that will change my life forever! And I am not exaggerating! I successfully hemmed two pairs of jeans without having to lose the original hem, resulting in jeans that DON'T look like they have been altered! At 5’2” there are very few times that I put on a pair of jeans and they fit perfectly. They are almost always way too long. Over the years I have tried to fix pants by cutting length off and making a new hem, only to have it look so obvious. Sure, a tailor is an option, but adding that extra cost is less than desirable, and I always felt like this was something I should learn to do myself. I recently found a pair of jeans that I loved and couldn’t pass up, but were definitely going to need to be hemmed. Days later I happened upon a tutorial on how to keep the original hem, so I felt like it was as good a time as any to try this out. It worked beautifully and I am not sure there are words that express how exciting this is!! For all of you other short friends of mine, here is the lowdown: Put on the pair of jeans and roll up the cuff to the desired length. Pin it in place. Take the jeans off and measure the length, but do not include the hem in the measurement. Divide that measurement in half and this is the number you will use to pin the final sewing length. For example, I rolled mine up about 4.5 inches (I told you I was short!) and the original hem was about ½ inch. So I was really only working off of 4 inches. I divided that number in half and was left with 2 inches. I moved the amount rolled up, down to 2 inches and pinned it there. Using a thread that matches your jean color, you then stitch right underneath the hem. Try them on before you cut off the excess fabric to double check that the length is correct. Once you cut the extra folded fabric off, iron the hem down. It will barely be visible that there is a seam above the hem, and who looks that closely anyway?! Top shows the original amount that I rolled up (the 4.5 inches), and the bottom shows the amount divided in half and pinned (2 inches) Measuring and pinning around the whole hemline Stitch right below the original hem Finished stitching Cut the excess fabric off Finished! You can't even tell they have been altered!

This weekend I figured out how to do something that will change my life forever! And I am not exaggerating! I successfully hemmed two pairs of jeans without having to lose the original hem, resulting in jeans that DON'T look like they have been altered! At 5’2” there are very few times that I put on a pair of jeans and they fit perfectly. They are almost always way too long. Over the years I have tried to fix pants by cutting length off and making a new hem, only to have it look so obvious. Sure, a tailor is an option, but adding that extra cost is less than desirable, and I always felt like this was something I should learn to do myself. I recently found a pair of jeans that I loved and couldn’t pass up, but were definitely going to need to be hemmed. Days later I happened upon a tutorial on how to keep the original hem, so I felt like it was as good a time as any to try this out. It worked beautifully and I am not sure there are words that express how exciting this is!! For all of you other short friends of mine, here is the lowdown: Put on the pair of jeans and roll up the cuff to the desired length. Pin it in place. Take the jeans off and measure the length, but do not include the hem in the measurement. Divide that measurement in half and this is the number you will use to pin the final sewing length. For example, I rolled mine up about 4.5 inches (I told you I was short!) and the original hem was about ½ inch. So I was really only working off of 4 inches. I divided that number in half and was left with 2 inches. I moved the amount rolled up, down to 2 inches and pinned it there. Using a thread that matches your jean color, you then stitch right underneath the hem. Try them on before you cut off the excess fabric to double check that the length is correct. Once you cut the extra folded fabric off, iron the hem down. It will barely be visible that there is a seam above the hem, and who looks that closely anyway?! Top shows the original amount that I rolled up (the 4.5 inches), and the bottom shows the amount divided in half and pinned (2 inches) Measuring and pinning around the whole hemline Stitch right below the original hem Finished stitching Cut the excess fabric off Finished! You can't even tell they have been altered!

This little technique has saved me hundreds of dollars! I'm not even kidding. My alterations place charges $25 for a jean hem using the original hem. Ouch! I'm only 5'2 so you can imagine the dent this can make in my wallet. I have tried the whole fold the jean over and stitch as close to the seam trick and, to be honest, I hate it! While inspecting a friend's jeans who had just had them altered, I figured out the trick. This may look daunting, but, believe me, it's not. It's really quite simple once you get the hang of it. The five most important tools needed to accomplish this task are: a seam ripper a ruler of some sort to measure. My favorite, by far, is the sewing guage. A must! Jean thread. I get my thread from JoAnn's. The only thread I ever buy from there is Gutermann's. They have three different colors of Jean thread. I have all three and I wish they had even more of a selection. Oh I wish they had really light blue. A pair of scissors and, lastly, you will need to pull out that trusted sewing machine! Measuring is the MOST important part of this project. Please, please make sure you measure right. You will need to try on your jeans with the tallest shoes you will wear them with. Fold them up where you want them and remove them to do the pencil marking. With this sort of hemming, you will cut your jeans off at exactly the length you wish them to be. If you are unsure, always go a bit longer. Once you cut, you cannot add more length. Be careful!! The best way to mark your jeans is to figure out, in inches, the amount you would like cuttoff. I then measure all of the way around from the bottom of the jeans. This is how it looks once you have marked completely around the jeans. I do not draw a line, but you can if you want. Pick up your scissors and make a tiny slit right on one of your markings. This is about how big I make my slit. Slide your scissors into the slit and cut around the jeans, kind of like dot to dot, but slit to slit. Once you've completed cutting around the jeans, pick up the cut off part and cut down the jean, I usually do this by the seam. Cut down until you are about a half inch away from the top of the original hem, as pictured. I then cut all of the way around the jean, 1/2 inch away from the top of the hem. This is how the hem now looks and it's almost ready to reattach. Before we can reattach, we must rip out the original stitching. Do this by sliding your seam ripper under the stitch and sliding it up and out until the thread snaps. This is how the hem will now look after all of the stitches have been removed. This can kind of be a bugger sometimes. Especially on the two, thick seams on the sides. The above picture is of the piece right side out. You now need to flip the hem inside out, as pictured. Take your jeans and the orginal hem and lay the jeans on your lap. I then cut two slits on either side of the thick seam. Just slit it and stop at the top of the fold. The reason I do this is because when I fold the jeans over again, as I will show you in the next picture, I don't want to have to stitch through that thick area of the jean. Open up your hem, as pictured above. Unfold it one time and leave the second fold that is under my thumb in the picture. Now take your hem and fold the cut side over to match up to the bottom of the other fold. You will then take your jeans and lay it on top of the piece you just folded over, matching it up at the crease of the bottom of the hem. I really hope this makes sense. This is the jean layed on top of the fold and then you will fold the piece that is under my thumb over the top of the jean. This sandwiches the jean in the middle of the hem. Pin this is place. Do this all of the way around the leg, making sure you have the right seams matched up at the sides. This is how it will look from the outside. And this is how it looks from the inside. Once you have pinned completely around, you are ready to sew into place. I have to have my machine on the highest tension and make sure you have an extremely thick needle or it will not be able to make it through the thick seams. I usually begin right before the thickest piece. Begin stitching and make sure you back stitch before you continue on. As you stitch through the very thick seam, go very slowly. I have to go stitch by stitch. I cannot just press on my pedal, but I tap one stitch at a time, just through that really thick part. Make sure that you are stitching close to the edge of the hem. I line my jeans up with the inside edge of the first, slender tab on my foot, as pictured above. This places the stitches in the perfect position. Just play around with it until you figure it out. Remember, if you mess up on this part, you can always take it out and start over. You will probably have to too. I did, but once I had done it once or twice, I can do it no problem! Stitch completely around the leg, back stitching at the end, and this is the end result. A professional hem that you did all on your own! Please excuse the ugly cushion. I really do plan on recovering them in the future. Please let me know if something doesn't make sense. This is very hard to explain. Easy to do, but hard to explain.

8849 votes and 268935 views on Imgur: The magic of the Internet

I am 5'2" necessitating LOTS of hemming and shortening of pants, skirts, and dresses. I just can't find anything the right length. If you've ever priced the cost of professional seamstresses (and add in the time it takes to get your clothing back), it costs a fortune to have everything you buy hemmed. I learned years ago how to hem pants and skirts, but jeans always gave me grief. A couple of years ago my older sister showed me a pair of her jeans that she had hemmed professionally, and it was easy to see how it was done. The difference is that jeans typically have a worn edge. The hem is decorative, so cutting that edge off to shorten them takes away part of the character you're paying for. So I developed a tutorial for hemming jeans the way professional would. Hope you find this helpful! What you'll need: sewing machine dark thread to match the jeans iron straight pins measuring tape scissors The Process: You'll need to measure the desired length of the jeans. The easiest way I've found to do this is to have the person stand on a chair and scoot back so the heel of their shoes is even with the edge of the chair. It might be helpful to note that you definitely need to have them wear the shoes they'd typically wear with the jeans. I prefer to hem the jeans to the ground. So, using a safety pin or water-soluble marking pen, mark the desired length (in my case, where the shoe ends and the chair begins). Next, measure the amount you'll need to shorten them from the edge of the current hem to the mark you've made. In the jeans in this tutorial, they needed to be shortened 2 1/2 inches. Lay the jeans flat on a hard surface, and measure up the desired length (2 1/2 inches here) from the stitching on the current hem. Since the current hem will remain in place, that half inch or so will also remain. So, if you measure from the edge of your jeans, they'll still be a half an inch too long after hemming. Make sense? Now place a straight pin to mark. Next you'll fold the edge of your jeans up into a cuff matching the current stitching to just above the pin like this. Pin in place. To check your accuracy, divide your total amount needed to shorten (2 1/2 inches for me) by 2 (equalling 1 1/4 inches in my case). Measure from the fold to just under the current stitching making sure this amount is half of the amount you need to take it in. Next, keeping this length consistent, pin all the way around the cuff. Measure as you go to make sure you're still consistent. Repeat these steps on the second leg. When both legs are securely pinned, move the pants to your sewing machine. Carefully stitch in the ditch just along the fold of the current hem. Make sure to get as close to this fold as possible being careful not to sew on top of it or across the current stitching. Stitch all the way around backstitching where you stop and start. Repeat this step for the other leg. Remove your jeans from the machine, and turn the cuff up to the inside of the leg like this. With a steaming hot iron, press this new seam from the inside all the way around each leg. Now turn the pants inside-out revealing the new cuff on the inside of the leg. Using super sharp scissors, cut the cuff about a quarter inch from your stitching. Turn the jeans right-side-out, and iron again if necessary to reveal your finished hem. Easy, and your seam is almost invisible! As always, please feel free to comment with questions, and I'll do my best to answer.

Many people end up with jeans that are too long in order to get them to fit correctly in the waist. However, when jeans are shortened, the new hem doesn't usually look quite as polished as the original one. To retain the authentic and stylish look of your jeans when shortening them, reattach the original hem.

It was created with the motif of jeans, which were established as a fashion for young people in the 1960s. It reproduces the details of authentic selvedge jeans from that time. These jeans allow you to enjoy the fun of growing your own jeans from one wash. - Inspired by jeans, which has become established as a fashion for young people in the 1960s. - Relax Tapered Fit - 13.5oz SDA Original Japanese Selvedge denim - Plain pocket oversea version 100% Cotton Made in Japan. size chart size waist inseam ferry Hem width 27 69.5 78.0 28.5 15.0 28 72.0 78.0 29.2 15.5 29 74.5 78.0 29.9 15.5 30 77.0 78.0 30.6 16.0 31 79.5 78.0 31.3 16.5 32 82.0 78.0 32.0 17.0 33 84.5 78.0 32.7 17.5 34 87.0 78.0 33.4 18.0 36 92.0 78.0 34.8 19.0 The sizes above are the actual measurements of the product. Depending on the characteristics of the product fabric, there may be an error of around a few centimeters.

I am short. There is no other way to put it. I’m barely 5′ tall. I think I’ve only bought two pairs of used jeans in my life that were already hemmed to my length…ever……

The Backstory I am short. All the jeans I buy are too long for me. But I sew. So I thought I could cut off the excess length and rehem the ...

I am short. There is no other way to put it. I’m barely 5′ tall. I think I’ve only bought two pairs of used jeans in my life that were already hemmed to my length…ever……

This little technique has saved me hundreds of dollars! I'm not even kidding. My alterations place charges $25 for a jean hem using the original hem. Ouch! I'm only 5'2 so you can imagine the dent this can make in my wallet. I have tried the whole fold the jean over and stitch as close to the seam trick and, to be honest, I hate it! While inspecting a friend's jeans who had just had them altered, I figured out the trick. This may look daunting, but, believe me, it's not. It's really quite simple once you get the hang of it. The five most important tools needed to accomplish this task are: a seam ripper a ruler of some sort to measure. My favorite, by far, is the sewing guage. A must! Jean thread. I get my thread from JoAnn's. The only thread I ever buy from there is Gutermann's. They have three different colors of Jean thread. I have all three and I wish they had even more of a selection. Oh I wish they had really light blue. A pair of scissors and, lastly, you will need to pull out that trusted sewing machine! Measuring is the MOST important part of this project. Please, please make sure you measure right. You will need to try on your jeans with the tallest shoes you will wear them with. Fold them up where you want them and remove them to do the pencil marking. With this sort of hemming, you will cut your jeans off at exactly the length you wish them to be. If you are unsure, always go a bit longer. Once you cut, you cannot add more length. Be careful!! The best way to mark your jeans is to figure out, in inches, the amount you would like cuttoff. I then measure all of the way around from the bottom of the jeans. This is how it looks once you have marked completely around the jeans. I do not draw a line, but you can if you want. Pick up your scissors and make a tiny slit right on one of your markings. This is about how big I make my slit. Slide your scissors into the slit and cut around the jeans, kind of like dot to dot, but slit to slit. Once you've completed cutting around the jeans, pick up the cut off part and cut down the jean, I usually do this by the seam. Cut down until you are about a half inch away from the top of the original hem, as pictured. I then cut all of the way around the jean, 1/2 inch away from the top of the hem. This is how the hem now looks and it's almost ready to reattach. Before we can reattach, we must rip out the original stitching. Do this by sliding your seam ripper under the stitch and sliding it up and out until the thread snaps. This is how the hem will now look after all of the stitches have been removed. This can kind of be a bugger sometimes. Especially on the two, thick seams on the sides. The above picture is of the piece right side out. You now need to flip the hem inside out, as pictured. Take your jeans and the orginal hem and lay the jeans on your lap. I then cut two slits on either side of the thick seam. Just slit it and stop at the top of the fold. The reason I do this is because when I fold the jeans over again, as I will show you in the next picture, I don't want to have to stitch through that thick area of the jean. Open up your hem, as pictured above. Unfold it one time and leave the second fold that is under my thumb in the picture. Now take your hem and fold the cut side over to match up to the bottom of the other fold. You will then take your jeans and lay it on top of the piece you just folded over, matching it up at the crease of the bottom of the hem. I really hope this makes sense. This is the jean layed on top of the fold and then you will fold the piece that is under my thumb over the top of the jean. This sandwiches the jean in the middle of the hem. Pin this is place. Do this all of the way around the leg, making sure you have the right seams matched up at the sides. This is how it will look from the outside. And this is how it looks from the inside. Once you have pinned completely around, you are ready to sew into place. I have to have my machine on the highest tension and make sure you have an extremely thick needle or it will not be able to make it through the thick seams. I usually begin right before the thickest piece. Begin stitching and make sure you back stitch before you continue on. As you stitch through the very thick seam, go very slowly. I have to go stitch by stitch. I cannot just press on my pedal, but I tap one stitch at a time, just through that really thick part. Make sure that you are stitching close to the edge of the hem. I line my jeans up with the inside edge of the first, slender tab on my foot, as pictured above. This places the stitches in the perfect position. Just play around with it until you figure it out. Remember, if you mess up on this part, you can always take it out and start over. You will probably have to too. I did, but once I had done it once or twice, I can do it no problem! Stitch completely around the leg, back stitching at the end, and this is the end result. A professional hem that you did all on your own! Please excuse the ugly cushion. I really do plan on recovering them in the future. Please let me know if something doesn't make sense. This is very hard to explain. Easy to do, but hard to explain.

Hey guys. So, some of you have asked how I hemmed my denim skirt by myself while keeping the factory-edge look. I've got bad news and good...

**warning: this post is mostly for short people** Mrs. Stephanie Court from Barefoot in the Kitchen was kind enough to lend me the following post. Contessa Court is a very accomplished seamstress, but I can personally verify that this technique is friendly and approachable (just like Stephanie). Follow these steps and soon your pant hem…

Many of you asked about the jeans I wore in last week’s DIY so I thought I’d share the far too easy steps to achieve the same look. They were inspired by a pair of Vetements,…

The Backstory I am short. All the jeans I buy are too long for me. But I sew. So I thought I could cut off the excess length and rehem the ...

Can anyone on this planet find the perfect pair of jeans? There are so many things to look for in a perfect pair of jeans. First, there’s the waist. And then the fit in the legs. And then the fabric stretch. And ah man, now you have to choose from boot cut, skinny jeans, trouser …

Two months ago I found a pair of jeans that I loved, but of course were way too long for me. I'm 5'1, so naturally I have a difficult time finding pants that fit my

Copyright-All Rights Reserved I'm thrilled to say that my blog post Hem Jeans Fast and Easy has become very popular. In fact I'd say that it has turned into sort of a forum about hemming jeans. I never thought in a million years that that post would be so helpful to people all over the world and I want to thank everyone for sharing tips and giving great advice on the subject. Thanks to everyone who left uplifting and positive comments! There were a lot of concerns and questions about fraying and a few great solutions to that problem. I thought I would try a few sewing methods mentioned in the comments since my mom needed some new pants hemmed. Here we go! *Update - We now have a video tutorial here! Zig Zag Stitch- Here we do everything exactly the same as in the original post but we go further. Add a zig zag stitch just below the seam you just sewed to help prevent fraying. (Keep in mind that any extra fabric below the zig zag stitch will fray, but once it the fray reaches the zig zag stitch it won't continue.) Cut off the extra fabric, fold over, and iron flat. You could leave it at that or go to the next option... Zig Zag Stitch and Top Stitch- Hem the pants just like the original post says, add a zig zag stitch just below the seam you just added. Cut off the extra fabric, fold over, iron flat, and... top stitch. This secures the zig zag stitch portion to the pant and prevents it from ever flipping up after you wash it. You won't have to iron after washing either. Just make sure the thread matches perfectly and keep your line straight and even. Here's what it looks like with the top stitch. When you put them on you can hardly tell there was any alteration. *If you don't like this look then just tack the sides up. Fray Check- This one was thrown out by a lot of people. This is the fastest and easiest way to prevent fraying. Just apply the fray check after you sew your first straight seam and cut off the extra fabric. Click the picture of the fray check to buy it at amazon. Use a Serger- I don't have a serger, but this would be a great method to use. Instead of cutting off the extra fabric, serge it. This prevents fraying and it cuts at the same time. Fabulous! Thanks again to everyone for your words of wisdom! Love you all! Stephanie

This little technique has saved me hundreds of dollars! I'm not even kidding. My alterations place charges $25 for a jean hem using the original hem. Ouch! I'm only 5'2 so you can imagine the dent this can make in my wallet. I have tried the whole fold the jean over and stitch as close to the seam trick and, to be honest, I hate it! While inspecting a friend's jeans who had just had them altered, I figured out the trick. This may look daunting, but, believe me, it's not. It's really quite simple once you get the hang of it. The five most important tools needed to accomplish this task are: a seam ripper a ruler of some sort to measure. My favorite, by far, is the sewing guage. A must! Jean thread. I get my thread from JoAnn's. The only thread I ever buy from there is Gutermann's. They have three different colors of Jean thread. I have all three and I wish they had even more of a selection. Oh I wish they had really light blue. A pair of scissors and, lastly, you will need to pull out that trusted sewing machine! Measuring is the MOST important part of this project. Please, please make sure you measure right. You will need to try on your jeans with the tallest shoes you will wear them with. Fold them up where you want them and remove them to do the pencil marking. With this sort of hemming, you will cut your jeans off at exactly the length you wish them to be. If you are unsure, always go a bit longer. Once you cut, you cannot add more length. Be careful!! The best way to mark your jeans is to figure out, in inches, the amount you would like cuttoff. I then measure all of the way around from the bottom of the jeans. This is how it looks once you have marked completely around the jeans. I do not draw a line, but you can if you want. Pick up your scissors and make a tiny slit right on one of your markings. This is about how big I make my slit. Slide your scissors into the slit and cut around the jeans, kind of like dot to dot, but slit to slit. Once you've completed cutting around the jeans, pick up the cut off part and cut down the jean, I usually do this by the seam. Cut down until you are about a half inch away from the top of the original hem, as pictured. I then cut all of the way around the jean, 1/2 inch away from the top of the hem. This is how the hem now looks and it's almost ready to reattach. Before we can reattach, we must rip out the original stitching. Do this by sliding your seam ripper under the stitch and sliding it up and out until the thread snaps. This is how the hem will now look after all of the stitches have been removed. This can kind of be a bugger sometimes. Especially on the two, thick seams on the sides. The above picture is of the piece right side out. You now need to flip the hem inside out, as pictured. Take your jeans and the orginal hem and lay the jeans on your lap. I then cut two slits on either side of the thick seam. Just slit it and stop at the top of the fold. The reason I do this is because when I fold the jeans over again, as I will show you in the next picture, I don't want to have to stitch through that thick area of the jean. Open up your hem, as pictured above. Unfold it one time and leave the second fold that is under my thumb in the picture. Now take your hem and fold the cut side over to match up to the bottom of the other fold. You will then take your jeans and lay it on top of the piece you just folded over, matching it up at the crease of the bottom of the hem. I really hope this makes sense. This is the jean layed on top of the fold and then you will fold the piece that is under my thumb over the top of the jean. This sandwiches the jean in the middle of the hem. Pin this is place. Do this all of the way around the leg, making sure you have the right seams matched up at the sides. This is how it will look from the outside. And this is how it looks from the inside. Once you have pinned completely around, you are ready to sew into place. I have to have my machine on the highest tension and make sure you have an extremely thick needle or it will not be able to make it through the thick seams. I usually begin right before the thickest piece. Begin stitching and make sure you back stitch before you continue on. As you stitch through the very thick seam, go very slowly. I have to go stitch by stitch. I cannot just press on my pedal, but I tap one stitch at a time, just through that really thick part. Make sure that you are stitching close to the edge of the hem. I line my jeans up with the inside edge of the first, slender tab on my foot, as pictured above. This places the stitches in the perfect position. Just play around with it until you figure it out. Remember, if you mess up on this part, you can always take it out and start over. You will probably have to too. I did, but once I had done it once or twice, I can do it no problem! Stitch completely around the leg, back stitching at the end, and this is the end result. A professional hem that you did all on your own! Please excuse the ugly cushion. I really do plan on recovering them in the future. Please let me know if something doesn't make sense. This is very hard to explain. Easy to do, but hard to explain.

Not only does hemming your jeans prolong the life span of your clothes, but you look less like a college sophomore circa 1998. ??

This iconic high rise straight leg jean has a raw hem and a structured, vintage denim feel. Finished in a dark indigo faded wash, this flattering pair is sustainable and soft, thanks to a cotton and Tencel™ fabrication. A hint of elastane offers minimal stretch. Item Details: High Rise Straight Leg 11" front rise 15" back rise 16.5" knee 15.5" leg opening 28" inseam Fabric Content: 77% Cotton, 22% Tencel™, 1% Elastane Fit Details: We find that the New York Jeans run true to size. Made under fair working conditions in Turkey.  Mavi is a company built on quality, innovation, passion, and respect for people and nature. Established in Istanbul in 1991, they create eco friendly denim, that uses less energy, water, and chemicals, and is made with sustainable materials. Mavi believes a better future starts with our value chain. They provide a work environment where people are respected, differences are embraced, and talent and culture are nurtured.

The Backstory I am short. All the jeans I buy are too long for me. But I sew. So I thought I could cut off the excess length and rehem the ...

how to use the original hem on your designer jeans and hem like a professional, sewing tutorial, easy hemming fixes

**warning: this post is mostly for short people** I never think of myself as short (I'm almost 5'3'') until I stand next to someone oth...

The Backstory I am short. All the jeans I buy are too long for me. But I sew. So I thought I could cut off the excess length and rehem the ...

black wool-silk blend fine knit corset style draped detailing sweetheart neck long sleeves with ribbed cuffs signature Orb logo embroidery at the front curved hem front button and zip fastening closure_type: press stud fastenings, collar_type: exaggerated point collar, waistband_type: drawstring elasticated waistband, material: cotton-linen blend, sleeve_length: short sleeves, neckline: v-neck