Love sea creatures and adore crocheting? Find here free sea amigurumi patterns of whale, turtle, shark, octopus, and many more.

Amigurumi free patterns and step-by-step crochet tutorials... One of the free amigurumi crochet patterns we will share today is the amigurumi Spring Bird, whose photos and design belong to Yulia Zublenko. You can learn how to crochet these bird using the free amigurumi pattern. Thanks to Yulia Zublenko (@julia_zublenko) for this cute bird.

Good pick, Finn! Pattern by Amigurumi Fair, available via Ravelry. More Patterns From This Designer: This post contains affiliate links.

This is 10 Adorable FREE Amigurumi Jungle Animals Crochet Patterns that's easy to follow and very beginner friendly! These patterns are perfect for every child and will be their best friend! Most of the patterns use a soft yarn that's perfect for a baby to cuddle with the animals. I would recommend using a soft

Free amigurumi patterns... You can find interesting ideas, tutorials and crochet tutorials about amigurumi goose here. Lots of amigurumi free crochet patterns are waiting for you.

Introducing our adorable custom crochet pattern doll, perfect for every little girl's playtime adventures! This Amerikan Girl-inspired amigurumi toy features stunning long hair that is sure to spark hours of imaginative fun. Dressed in a charming dress, this handmade doll is lovingly crafted with intricate details and designed to be cherished as a special gift. Whether it's for play or decoration, this delightful crochet doll is a must-have addition to any little girl's collection. Surprise your favorite little girl with this precious gift and watch her face light up with joy! The offer applies to the pattern, not the final product in the form of a doll. The pattern is written in English. All my designs are available at this link https://www.etsy.com/your/shops/Toysbycrochet

Brighten your fall season with a bunch of cute amigurumi pumpkins. You can easily make them in three sizes using our free Halloween pumpkin crochet pattern!

This is a crochet pattern to make this super cute mini ghost. And it's no-sew! There is a full free Youtube tutorial to make this ghost here! Yarn used Hobbii Baby Snuggle in White Other Items used- US G/4.5mm Crochet Hook - 9mm safety eyes - Yarn needle - Poly fill - Stitch markers *Please note that safety eyes are NOT recommended for children under the age of 3 years. Abbreviations and stitches • MR: Magic ring • St(s): Stitch(es) • SC: Single crochet • HDC: Half Double Crochet • BLO: Back loops only • FLO: Front loops only • Inc: Increase (Stitch 2 SC into the stitch) • Dec: Decrease using the invisible method • (...) x n: Repeat instructions in brackets n times • Bobble: Yarn over, insert the hook, yarn over, pull through a loop. DO NOT complete the stitch. Repeat the steps 5 times in total. There should be 11 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all 11 loops on the hook to complete the stitch. Please see the video tutorial for further detailed instruction on this **This pattern uses US Crochet Terms** Pattern R1: 6 SC in a MR R2: 6 inc (12) R3: (SC, inc) x 6 (18) R4: (2SC, inc) x 6 (24) R5-8: 24SC (4 rounds) R9: 6SC, 1 bobble, 10SC, 1 bobble, 6SC (24) Eyes: between R7 and R8, 5 sts apart R10-11: 24SC Mark first and last back loop of R11 with markers R12 (FLO): ([SC, HDC, SC] into 1 st, sl st into next st) x 12 R13: In back loops of R11 (1st and last sts were marked earlier): 24SC R14: (SC, dec) x 8 (16) Stuff R15: 8 dec (8)

Toothless Amigurumi Crochet Toy: Adorable, Handmade Dragon from How to Train Your Dragon, Great for Fans!

Hello my fellow crocheters! Hope you're all well and safe!Since I received a lot of great feedbacks and comments from you, my friends, about my last crochet projects, I decided I would create the ultimate crochet DIY TOOL KIT!A Flat Head Screwdriver and a Blacksmithing Hammer are joining the Power Drill and completing a super cute set!Your little handymen and women in your house will be thrilled to play with these safe and still very realistic toys! Let them choose their favorite colors and crea

Free crochet amigurumi patterns... Great ideas about amigurumi snail and step-by-step crochet tutorial are here. You will have no trouble crocheting the free amigurumi patterns on our blog and you will have a great time.

I love Gyarados! He's definitely one of my favorite Pokemon (I have a thing for water Pokemon). I really wanted to make a cute little Gyarados crochet pattern, most of the ones I could find were not exactly what I had in mind. So I set out to make my own pattern! But as I went, I realized I had misjudged the size - a lot. I kept going, though. I was really pleased with how he was shaping up, and that's how we ended up with the 40" long Gyarados wonder! I would like to say this pattern is advanced. Also, this post is very picture heavy. You'll need to know double crochet, slip stitch, increase, decrease, front loop only stitching, and triple crochet. You'll also need to know how to crochet in rounds, rows and magic circles. Personally, I wired my Gyarados so he could be posed and placed in different positions. I also needle felted his eyes, but you can easily do felt shapes and glue them on, or sew them on if you prefer. This pattern takes me about three full days of crochet and binge watching Netflix! You can make a regular Gyarados using blue yarn, or make a shiny Gyarados by using red instead! I made one of each, so the photos with the instructions may vary in color. Crochet Terms MR- Magic Ring SC - Single crochet INC - Increase DEC - Decrease DC - Double Crochet TC - Triple Crochet F/O - Finish off DC INC - Increase with double crochet TC INC - Increase with triple crochets SL ST - Slip Stitch FLO - Front loops only Number in "( )" at the end of each line is the total number of stitches that should be on that row Directions in "**" followed by a "x #" should be repeated the number of times indicated. For example : *SC, INC* x 6 (18) = SC, INC, SC, INC, SC, INC, SC, INC, SC, INC, SC, INC = 18 Materials Needed White, lemon, pink, dark teal and blue yarn, worsted weight (substitute red yarn instead of blue, and dark maroon instead of dark teal for a shiny Gyarados) *I use red heart Super Saver brand yarn 3 mm crochet hook yarn needle scissors Needle felting supplies or felt for the eyes, in red, black and white (substitute orange instead of red for shiny) Optional: Clothesline wire, or other wire or any joints you prefer to use in your amigurumi Large Gyarados Pattern Head - in blue (or red for shiny) MR 6 INC in each stitch round (12) *SC, INC* x 6 (18) *2 SC, INC* x 6 (24) *3 SC, INC* x 6 (30) *4 SC, INC* x 6 (36) *5 SC, INC* x 6 (42) *6 SC, INC* x 6 (48) *7 SC, INC* x 6 (54) *8 SC, INC* x 6 (60) *9 SC, INC* x 6 (66) *10 SC, INC* x 6 (72) 36 SC FLO, turn (36) 108 SC - when you reach the beginning of the last row simply continue around. You'll end up with a slope in your round. Do the same thing every time this happens and just continue in the rounds over uneven stitches to create a round. Turn. *5 SC, DEC* x 6 (30) 66 SC (66) 66 SC (66) *SC 9, DEC* x 6 (60) 60 SC (60) *3 SC, INC* x 3, *9 SC, DEC* x 3 (60) 60 SC (60) *3 SC, DEC* x 6, 29 SC, SL ST (54) Turn 17 SC, SL ST (18) Turn 54 SC (54) *7 SC, DEC* x 6 (48) *7 SC, DEC* x 3, *6 SC, INC* x 3 (48) *7 SC, DEC* x 3, *6 SC, INC* x 3 (48) *7 SC, DEC* x 3, *6 SC, INC* x 3 (48) *7 SC, DEC* x 3, *6 SC, INC* x 3 (48) *6 SC, DEC* x 6 (42) 4 SC, 3 DC, 2 SC, 3 DC, 4 SC (16) turn 4 SC, 3 DC, 2 SC, 3 DC, 28 SC (40) 4 SC, DEC over the 3 DC, 2 SC, DEC over the 3 DC, 10 SC, 14 DC, 5 SC, SL ST (41) turn 6 SL ST, 14 DC (20) turn SC 14 (14) turn SC 14 (14) turn SC 14 (14) turn SC 14 (14) turn SC 14 (14) turn SC 14 (14) turn SC 14 (14) F/O Facial Spike A - Make two in blue (red for shiny) MR 4 (4) 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) *INC, SC* x 2 (6) *INC, 2 SC* x 2 (8) *3 SC, INC* x 2 (10) 10 SC (10) F/O leaving a tail for sewing later. Facial Spike B - Make two in blue (red for shiny) MR 5 (5) INC, 4 SC (6) *INC, 2 SC* x 2 (8) 8 SC (8) *INC, 3 SC* x 2 (10) F/O leaving a tail for sewing later. Facial Spike C - Make two in blue (red for shiny) MR 5 (5) INC, 4 SC (6) *INC, 2 SC* x 2 (8) *INC, 3 SC* x 2 (10) *INC, 4 SC* x 2 (12) F/O leaving a tail for sewing later. Whiskers - Make two in blue (red for shiny) MR 3 - 31. SC 3 (90 SC in rounds) F/O leaving a tail for sewing later Mouth - in black - work in ROWS Chain 14, turn 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) FLO 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) F/O Tongue - in pink MR 6 (6) INC in each stitch round (12) *SC, INC* x 6 (18) *2 SC, INC* x 6 (24) 24 SC (24) 24 SC (24) 24 SC (24) 24 SC (24) 24 SC (24) 24 SC (24) F/O leaving a tail for sewing later Lips - in lemon 5 SC, join last CH to first CH to make a circle of 5 CH (5) - work in rounds now, forming a tube - 71. 5 SC (5) - this equals 350 SC in rounds F/O - Sew the ends together to create a circle. Middle Facial Spike (Center) - in dark teal (maroon for shiny) Stuff as you go! MR 6 (6) *INC, SC* x 3 (9) *INC, 2 SC* x 3 (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) *4 SC, DEC* x 2 (10) 10 SC (10) 10 SC (10) 10 SC (10) 10 SC (10) 10 SC (10) *DEC, 3 SC* x 2 (8) 8 SC (8) 8 SC (8) 8 SC (8) *DEC, 2 SC* x 2 (6) 6 SC (6) 6 SC (6) 6 SC (6) 6 SC (6) 6 SC (6) *DEC, SC* x 2 (4) 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) DEC, DEC (2) F/O Middle Facial Spike (Sides) - make two in dark teal (maroon for shiny) MR 4 (4) 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) *INC, SC* x 2 (6) 6 SC (6) 6 SC (6) 6 SC (6) *INC, 2 SC* x 2 (8) 8 SC (8) 8 SC (8) 8 SC (8) 8 SC (8) 8 SC (8) *INC, 3 SC* x 2 (10) 10 SC (10) 10 SC (10) 5 SC (5) turn SC, DEC, 2 SC (4) turn DEC, DEC (2) F/O, leaving a tail for sewing later Stuff and then sew the two side spikes on opposite sides of the larger end of the middle spike. Teeth - in white - make four and work in ROWS CH 4, turn 3 SC, first SC in 2nd CH from hook (3) 3 SC (3) DEC, SC (2) DEC (1) F/O . Fold each tooth in half, whip stitch up the side. Side Head Fin - begin in blue (red for shiny) - make two MR 3 (3) 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) Keep connected to the skein of yarn. Begin separately in white , work in ROWS for this section CH 11, turn 9 DC, First DC in 3rd CH from hook counts as first DC (9) turn *2 DC, INC* x 3 (12) *3 DC, INC* x 3 (15) *4 DC, INC* x 3 (18) DC INC, 3 DC, 3 SC, 2 DC, DC INC, 2 DC, 2 SC, DC, DC INC, 2 DC (21) turn CH 3 (counts as first TC), 2 TC, 2 DC, SC, 2 SL ST, 2 DC, INC TC, 2 DC, 2 SL ST, 3 DC, 3 TC (22) F/O Take the red piece of the fin and continue SC up the top of the white piece of the fin. Whip stitch the rest of the red piece down the side of the white to complete the fin. Assembling the head: Stuff the main part of the head. Whip stitch the mouth to the head, with the longer part of the mouth facing downward. Sew the tongue into the mouth on the fold, making sure not to go through to the underside of the jaw. Next, sew the lips to the mouth. Take two teeth and sew them to the top of the mouth on opposite sides. Do not sew all the way through the lips. Next, take side spikes A, B, and C. They will be sewn to each side of the head. Spike A will be the top spike, B in the middle, and C closest to the mouth, as shown below. Next, sew the eyebrow spike to the center of the face, just above the nose. Once this is in place, you can needle felt the eyes or use felt to glue or sew the eyes in place. Use red for a regular gyarados' eyes, or use orange for a shiny gyarados. I have seen both red and orange used for a shiny gyarados' eyes. Flip the head over and sew the fins behind the side head spikes. Next, you will have to cut a length of clothesline wire the length of both whiskers plus the jaw. Slip the wire into one of the whisker "tubes", and then through the jaw underneath the fins. Slip the other whisker onto the other side of the wire. Whip stitch the ends of the whiskers to the jaw to keep them in place, and bend the wire into "S" shapes. The head is complete! The body: Underbelly and back- Complete the underbelly in yellow, and the back in red or blue based on shiny or regular gyarados. CH 5 and turn First SC in second CH from hook, 4 SC (4) *INC, SC* x 2 (6) *INC, SC* x 3 (9) 9 SC (9) 9 SC (9) 9 SC (9) *SC, DEC* x 3 (6) *INC, SC* x 3 (9) *2 SC, INC* x 3 (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) *2 SC, DEC* x 3 (9) *SC, DEC* x 3 (6) *SC, INC* x 3 (9) *2 SC, INC* x3 (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) *2 SC, DEC* x 3 (9) *SC, DEC* x 3 (6) *SC, INC* x 3 (9) *2 SC, INC* x 3 (12) *3 SC, INC* x 3 (15) 15 SC (15) 15 SC (15) 15 SC (15) 15 SC (15) 15 SC (15) 15 SC (15) *3 SC, DEC* x 3 (12) *3 SC, INC* x 3 (15) *4 SC, INC* x 3 (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) *4 SC, DEC* x 3 (15) *3 SC, DEC* x 3 (12) - Repeat lines 35 - 46 *3 SC, INC* x 3 (15) *4 SC, INC* x 3 (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) *4 SC, DEC* x 3 (15) *4 SC, INC* x 3 (18) *5 SC, INC* x 3 (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) *5 SC, DEC* x 3 (18) *4 SC, DEC* x 3 (15) - Repeat lines 58-71 four more times *4 SC, INC* x 3 (18) *5 SC, INC* x 3 (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) *5 SC, DEC* x 3 (18) F/O for the underbelly. Continue for the back. 18 SC (18) *5 SC, INC* x 3 (21) *6 SC, INC* x 3 (24) *7 SC, INC* x 3 (27) *8 SC, INC* x 3 (30) *9 SC, INC* x 3 (33) *10 SC, INC* x 3 (36) *11 SC, INC* x 3 (39) *12 SC, INC* x 3 (42) *13 SC, INC* x 3 (45) *14 SC, INC* x 3 (48) *15 SC, INC* x 3 (51) 15 SC, DC INC, 8 DC, TC INC, TC, 7 DC, DC INC, 16 SC (54) 17 SC, DC INC, 2 DC, 6 TC, TC INC, 7 TC, 2 DC, DC INC, 17 SC (57) F/O Tail Fin Middle - in blue (red for shiny). Stuff as you go! MR 6 *INC* x 6 (6) *INC, SC* x 6 (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) *DEC, SC* x 6 (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) *DEC, 4 SC* x 2 (10) 10 SC (10) 10 SC (10) *DEC, 3 SC* x 2 (8) 8 SC (8) 8 SC (8) 8 SC (8) *DEC, 2 SC* x 2 (6) 6 SC (6) 6 SC (6) *DEC, SC* x 2 (4) 4 SC (4) *DEC* x 2 (2) F/O Tail Fin Sides - in white, make two CH 2, turn SC (1) INC (2) *INC* x 2 (4) *INC, SC* x 2 (6) 6 SC (6) *INC, 2 SC* x2 (8) 8 SC (8) *INC, 4 SC* x 2 (10) 10 SC (10) 10 SC (10) *INC, 4 SC* x 2 (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) *INC, 5 SC* x 2 (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) SC, 2 DC, TC, DC, SC, 2 TC, SC, DC, 2 TC, DC, SC (14) SC, DC, 2 TC, DC, SC, 2 TC, SC, DC, 2 TC, DC, SC (14) F/O SC in red up a side of a white tail fin piece (as shown below). You will then attach it to the larger part of the middle piece and SC 3-4 stitches to the other side. Then SC down the side of the other fin. Then whip stitch the fins to the center piece to create one tail. Back Spots A - Make 8 in yellow CH 5 turn 4 SC (first SC in 2nd CH from hook) (4) 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) SC, 2 DC, SC (4) F/O Back Spots B - Make 8 in yellow CH 4 turn 3 SC (first SC in second CH from hook) (3) 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) SC, DC, SC (3) F/O Back Spots C- Make 8 in yellow CH 4, turn SC 3 (first SC in second CH from hook) (3) F/O Back Fin 1 Part 1- Make four in white MR 3 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) INC, SC (4) *INC, SC* x 2 (6) *2 SC, INC* x 2 (8) F/O Back Fin 1 Part 2 - Make two in white MR 4 4 SC (4) INC, 3 SC (5) INC, 4 SC (6) 6 SC (6) 6 SC (6) *INC, 2 SC* x 2 (8) 8 SC (8) 8 SC (8) *INC, 3 SC* x 2 (10) 10 SC (10) 10 SC (10) 10 SC (10) Join two spike 1 and one spike 2 together by SC around 26, with the tallest spike in the middle. (26) DEC, 7 SC, DEC, 3 SC, DEC, 6 SC, DEC, 3 SC (22) 22 SC (22) 22 SC (22) 3 SC, INC, 9 SC, INC, 8 SC (24) F/O Take the other two spike part 1's and the other spike part 2 and repeat steps 14-18. You should end up with two three grouped spikes that are identical. Back Fin 2 - in white MR 4 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) *INC, SC* x 2 (6) 6 SC (6) F/O Begin another spike separately MR 4 *INC, SC* x 2 (6) *INC, 2 SC* x 2 (8) 8 SC (8) Join the first spike with this one by SC 14 (14) *DEC, 5 SC* x 2 (12) 12 SC (12) *2 SC, INC* x 4 (16) *7 SC, INC* x 2 (18) 18 SC (18) *INC,8 SC* x 2 (20) 20 SC (20) SC to the corner of the taller spike (about 12 SC) F/O Begin another spike separately MR 3 INC, 2 SC (4) INC, 3 SC (5) INC, 4 SC (6) 6 SC (6) 6 SC (6) *INC, 2 SC* x 2 (8) *INC, 3 SC* x 2 (10) Join to the main spikes with SC 30 around (30) 30 SC (30) DEC, 8 SC, DEC, 18 SC (28) SC around to opposite corner (about SC 8) F/O Begin another spike separately MR 3 3 SC (3) INC, 2 SC (4) 4 SC (4) *INC, SC* x 2 (6) Join spikes with 34 SC (34) DEC, 5 SC, DEC, 25 SC (32) 32 SC (32) F/O Back Fin 3- in white MR 3 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) INC, 2 SC (4) 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) F/O Begin a new spike separately. Make two. MR 4 4 SC (4) *INC, SC* x 2 (6) F/O Join one of the smaller spikes to the first larger spike with 10 SC (10) DEC, 6 SC, join the second smaller spike beside the smaller spike with 15 SC (15) 15 SC (15) F/O Assembling the body: Begin with the back piece. You will be sewing all of the back spots to the back piece. Begin at the tail. There will be two spots on each bump of the body. Place the spots at the decrease of each bump right before the next. Use the photos for placement help if you need it! You will place the spots about one stitch away from the edge. The smallest ones, back spots C, will be placed on the first four bumps of the body. The next four bumps will have back spots B, and the four bumps after that will have back spots A. Place the belly and back together with edge matching up starting at the tail. Whip stitch up one edge. Next, you'll need to cut a piece of clothesline wire twice the length of the body, and twist the two ends together to form an oval. Place this inside of the body, and finish whip stitching up the other side of the body, stuffing around the wire as you go! This will allow you to pose the body in those great gyarados waves! Once the body is stuffed, you can whip stitch the tail fin to the tail of the body. Now focus on the nape of the neck. You'll fold back the extra portion of the back towards the rest of the body, and then tuck in each side where the flap angles downward. Use the photo above to help with shaping! Now take spike one of the Spike 1's you made and sew it in the very middle of the folded back portion of the body. This is the spike that goes directly behind gyarados's head. At this point you can also tack down with matching yarn the folds in the flaps. I usually use two points on each flap for tacking it down. You can now sew on the rest of the spikes to the body! The second spike 1 will go on the second bump from the head, directly behind the spike you just sewed on. Spike 2 will go on the fifth bump from the head, and spike 3 will go on the third bump from the tail tip. All you have to do now is sew his head onto his body! And congratulations! After days (weeks, months) of toiling and crocheting, you have your own amazing gyarados! I'd love to see pictures if anyone else completes him! I also tried my best to edit and be thorough, but if you find an error in this pattern please let me know!

Adorable Crochet Whale Amigurumi Idea - perfect for handmade gifts and cuddly sea-inspired playtime companions!

It's been a long time since I've come across something so unique! Get the pattern from El Duende de los Hilos via Etsy. This post contains affiliate links.

Free crochet amigurumi patterns... Great ideas about amigurumi dolphin and step-by-step crochet tutorial are here. You will have no trouble crocheting the free amigurumi patterns on our blog and you will have a great time.

Free amigurumi patterns... You can find interesting ideas, tutorials and crochet tutorials about amigurumi otter here. Lots of amigurumi free crochet patterns are waiting for you.

Các cách sáng tạo làm các đồ vật đơn giản, đồ trang trí, cách tận dụng đồ đạc cũ, chỉ những vật đơn giản mà bạn đã có một món đồ handmade ý nghĩa.

Looking for Wednesday Crochet Patterns? Crochet Wednesday and Enid's snood, Wednesday checkered sweater, lace collar and Wednesday amigurumi dolls.

Hello amigurumi lovers and beautiful visitors, I wanted to share the free amigurumi patterns for you here. In

It's here! My final commissioned pattern, Farmyard Goats, is now available to purchase! Farmyard Goats is a mix-and-match pattern that lets you choose the options you want, to make many different types of goat: Ears - floppy, upright, or none? Horns - long and curved, shorter, tiny nubs, or ...

Today`s post is all about our love for crochet dragons! These creatures fascinate us all. Come meet your next favorite amigurumi dragon!

This cheeky little chicken is soft and huggable, making a perfect gift for your favorite chicken lover! This is a low-sew pattern, that’s quick and easy to work up and perfect for beginners. It makes a great crochet pattern for anyone! This listing is for a digital PDF PATTERN ONLY. This is NOT a finished product. This is a CROCHET Pattern written in ENGLISH ONLY and uses standard US terms. Refunds are not available on this item. FINISHED SIZE: Approx. 5”/12.7 cm tall HOOK: 8mm YARN: Super Bulky Weight / Category 6 This chicken crochet pattern, (also known as amigurumi) includes step-by-step instructions with detailed photos so you can create your own beautiful handmade toy. This is an instant download, so there are no shipping costs. You will receive your PDF pattern as soon as payment is completed, so you can get started right away! This pattern is suitable for beginner crocheters. If you're not familiar with the terms and steps in this pattern, check out the Crochet Basics tutorials on my YouTube channel for helpful guidance. Also feel free to reach out to me though Etsy or on instagram @oakandmarlow. All patterns, designs and photographs included in this document are property of Oak and Marlow. Contents may not be sold, distributed or transferred to any other person. This pattern is for personal use only. Handmade items produced with this pattern may be sold as long as credit is given to the designer - Oak and Marlow Copyright 2022.

Crochet a cute and easy bass fish with this FREE amigurumi crochet pattern! Visit our site for hundreds of free crochet patterns!

It has been a very very wet summer here in Edmonton. So much rain. Nearly every day. It's making us all feel a little water logged. But you know, you can always look on the bright side and use it as inspiration! So I've been thinking about sea creatures a lot lately. Fish of all

This is not my pattern. It was written by Steven Wyckoff of www.wyldscallyns.com, and I found it here on Ravelry. Unfortunately the pattern no longer exists anywhere on the internet, so I am posting it here as found originally. It's just too cute to be taunting so many people on the internet with no pattern. Take it away, Steven! Little Cuttlefish: The example cuttlefish was done using a 4.00 mm (US G6) hook, blue worsted weight Lion Brand Wool Ease, and 3/8 inch safety eyes. You will also need a tapestry needle (to sew the head onto the body) and some sort of stuffing. Feel free to use a different hook, yarn, or eyes if you prefer. I use the notation “[some stitches] x 3” to mean repeat the [some stitches] three times. Here are other abbreviations that I am using: sc = single crochet inc = increase ch = chain sl = slip stitch blo = back loop only single crochet. This should leave an extra bar on the outside of the critter. hdc = half double crochet (yarn over, hook through stitch, yarn over, pull through all three loops) 3bauble = Basically you will do three double crochets that all go into the same stitch, and then are closed off with a single, final pull-through. I guess that is [y/o, hook through stitch, y/o pull through, y/o, pull through 2 of the loops, leaving two on the hook] x 3 y/o pull through all four loops at once. This should make a bit of a bump but won’t be an increase or a decrease. The body and head are done in the round, and I like to start with a magic loop. Body: The trick here is that your increases should be coming from the sides, not spread evenly as you would for a sphere; we’re trying to make a creature that is shaped more like an almond than a ball. The body should be worked in the round. Row 1: Using magic loop, sc 4 (4 stitches total) Row 2: inc in each sc from row 1 (8) Row 3: [inc, sc 2, inc] x 2 (12) Row 4: [inc, sc 4, inc] x 2 (16) Row 5-6: sc 16 (16) Row 7: inc, sc 6, inc, sc 8 (18) Row 8-9: sc 18 (18) Row 10: inc, sc 7, inc, sc 9 (20) Row 11-12: sc 20 (20) Row 13: inc, sc 8, inc, sc 10 (22) Row 14-15: sc 22 (22) Row 16: inc, sc 9, inc, sc 11 (24) Row 17-18: sc 24 (24) Row 19: [dec, sc 8, dec] x 2 (20) Bind off Fringe: Work slip stitches along the surface of the body about where your increases are coming from. I had to kind of take what I could get as far as keeping it straight and even. I used the last row of 24 as my starting and ending point. Once you have a base of slip stitches to work from, double crochet one row all the way around. For my fringe I did about 1 double crochet per slip stitch, but if you want a more ruffly fringe you should do more. 3-5 double crochet per slip stich would be much more ruffly. Head: This will be a more traditional circular increase but one of the rows is going to be a whole bunch of tentacles. When that happens you will be chaining off into the abyss and then working your way back to form the tentacle/arm. Working in the round again Row 1: Using magic loops, sc 5 (5) Row 2: blo 2 in each sc from previous row (10) Row 3: [inc, sc 1] x 5 (15) Row 4: sc 4, , x6, , sc 3 (15) Row 5: sc 15 (15) When you get to the tentacles/arms, work into the back loops of row 3, making sure the arms are on the outside of the critter. Row 6: sc 5, 3bauble x2, sc 1, 3bauble x2, sc 5 (15) Row 7: sc 15 (15) Bind off : chain 10 out away from the head. Then turn and work back: sl 2, sc 3, hdc 4. Once you get back to the head, slip stitch to the front loop only of the stitch you would have been working into if not for the tentacle. The back loop will be left for the next row to work into. This whole thing should use one stitch from the row below but leave a long tentacle hanging off. : chain 10 out and slip stitch 10 back with the last one being into the row below. Use safety eyes and attach them on the outside of the bumps created by the pairs of baubles. I put mine between the two baubles but you can feel free to put them wherever looks the cutest. Once the eyes and fringe are in place, stuff both parts and sew the head onto the body. That’s it! While I have crocheted a number of things without a pattern, this is the first time I’ve tried to formulate my ad-libbing into a pattern someone else could follow. Let me know if you find any mistakes and posts pics of your FOs! I will be sharing mine soon, so keep an eye out for that and show me yours too! Limpet x

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"The less you want, the more you love." Please note, Woodstock is a free pattern, Snoopy is a paid patern. Get the FREE pattern via Ravelry, designed by Amigurinos softies. Get the SNOOPY pattern via Etsy, designed by Amigurinos softies. More Patterns From This Designer: This post contains affiliate links.

Each complete kit forms part of the 'Edward's Menagerie' collection of amigurumi crochet soft toys designed by Kerry Lord from TOFT. This amigurumi pattern is crocheted in Toft's luxury British wool DK yarn and makes perfect gifts for children and adults alike. THIS COMPLETE KIT CONTAINS: • TOFT’s luxury British wool DK Yarn • a printed postcard pattern • toy stuffing • TOFT branded 3mm crochet hook • wool needle for sewing up • a small black thread to sew on the eyes and any other facial features.  VITAL STATS: When finished and in the sitting position your DK animal will be approx. 18cm tall. SKILL LEVEL: 1 - Complete beginner: Bunny, Labrador, Sheep, Elephant,  2 - Easy: Duck, Hippo, Unicorn, Seagull, Cat

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