Thursday was the first quilt meeting this year. And 45 ladies had come to share this evening together. This evening we had invited Trine Bakke (to the right) to talk about “How to get inspired to get project finished”. And it was so inspiring to listen to her, She had exactly the same philosophy as I, To have a lot of projects going on at the same time, and to always have a lot of “on the go” projects ready to grab. Anne Kjersti from Lappemakeriet had brought a lot of stuff from the shop and we was so eager to get some shopping done. They also showed a lot of inspiration from the shop. Like this ABC wallhanging in Norwegian. We always find a lot of english patterns for this, but then the letters does not compare with the the motif. Like A for Apple is not right in Norwegian, here it is E for Eple (apple), and we have the letter A Ø Å that is not in the english alphabet. Look at this cute pillow. I bought the paper pieces for this one. It is called Carpenter’s wheel (16”). Going to make this by using only fabric from my scrap bag. More inspiration. I have the paper pieces (bought long time ago) for both these projects. Have to look them up now, but where have I stored them??? This is Lappemakeriets BOM for this year. I really love the look of this one. But I have told myself not to buy any BOM before I have finished the one that is laying in a box in my sewingroom. But…….. have to think a little about this one. A lot of inspiration to get from this shop. Thank you Trine and Anne Kjersti for coming to our quiltmeeting. And then there was show and tell. Enjoy the photos. And I have brought my basket quilt to show. Looking forward to baste it and get it quilted. Did I buy something. Of course. The pink fabric to the left is half 30cm. Bjørg and I shared these and I think we have the same project in mind. Will be fun to se how different they will be when we add fabric from our own stash. The light fabrics to the right, I just had to have them. This weekend is going to be spendt in my sewingroom. Minus 20 outside, having my new sewingmachine to explore, new fabrics and a lot of ideas. I feel this is going to be a great weeend. Saying for today:

Official website of Little House on the Prairie® which serves as a home for fans of Laura Ingalls Wilder's classic books and the beloved television show.

Learn how to sew by taking things one step at a time. You'll find everything you need in this article for sewing newbies.

A Must-Have Travel Essential Dubbed the Goldilocks of our collection, The 2 Yard Wrap offers just the right length for those seeking something in between. Featured in PW, this wrap scarf is crafted from the same luxurious fabric as our classic wrap but is made with one less yard to provide a more manageable size. The 2 Yard Wrap's versatility is showcased in the numerous styles displayed by our models. Whether you're using it as a wrap, scarf, or shawl, this piece will complement any outfit and provide added warmth and style. It's a must-have accessory that pairs perfectly with any of our Bleusalt garments. Why You'll Love It: Sustainable Fabric: Sourced from renewable wood Travel Essential: Use it as a wrap, scarf or shawl, you pick Effortless Care: Machine washable and dryable with no shrinkage, making it easy to maintain. Enhance your wardrobe with The 2 Yard Wrap, a blend of luxury, versatility, and comfort. Made in the USA, this piece is designed to add the perfect touch to any outfit. Fit: 2 yards, the dimensions are 44 x 72 inches

I'm about to get as girly as this blog has ever been, guys, so fellas? Yes, you - I know you're out there! Yeah, look, unless you're a guy who likes reading about lady boobs and lingerie, you may want to skip this one. Although I promise to throw in some fun geeky bras every now and then, just to keep it interesting: Handpainted Starfleet Uniform Bra, $35 from SceeneShoes See? Ok, so, the other night I was following a rabbit trail of web links - like you do - and I ended up on this fascinating Reddit forum about bras. And when I say "fascinating," I mean I stayed up until 3AM reading, because holy WOW how did I not know this stuff before? You know how you always hear that something like 90% of women wear the wrong size bra? I'd heard that, too, but never thought much of it. Sure, my bra straps were constantly falling down and the wires were always jabbing me in the sides and I'd been convinced I was just shaped like a mutant for most of my life, but GOSH DARN IT I WAS ONE OF THE 10% GETTING IT RIGHT. Right? Wrong. Did you know that a bra's cup size changes with its band size? So a 34D's cup is a fraction of the size of a 40D's cup? This seems blindingly obvious now, but I promise you I HAD NO IDEA. I think I've just been programmed since my Barbie-playing days that D = ginormous boobs, so I never bothered to think beyond that. "MARVEL-OUS in Black" Bra, $65 from MeganElizabeth31 More stuff I learned: - There are something called "sister sizes," or bra sizes that hold equal amounts of mass. For example, a 34D is roughly equal to a 36C, in as far as how much boobage mass they will hold. Here's a handy visual guide of sister sizes, plus other band-to-bust ratios: It took me about five solid minutes of staring at that graphic to make any sense of it, but once you get it, it's great info to have - especially if you're in-between band sizes like me. - If you bend at the waist to adjust yourself with the "scoop & swoop" method, you can INSTANTLY become at least a full cup size bigger. (Hit that link for some impressive, NSFW before-and-after photos.) I tried this, and I can assure you: it totally works. - There are generally two kinds of breast shapes: full-on-top and full-on-the-bottom. If you're full-on-the-bottom like me, you may have been fooled into thinking a bra's cup size was too large for you, simply because it gaped at the top like so: NOT SO. Some bras are simply made to fit full-on-the-top ladies, while others fit full-on-the-bottom or both shapes. Head over to Bras I Hate for the whole post explaining the two shapes, plus plenty of helpful visuals like that one. This next one is one of my favorite bits: - A lot of armpit flab and folds are actually breast tissue being smashed upward by an ill-fitting bra. Ditto for back folds. So a properly fitted bra could actually eliminate some or all of your arm flab and back folds. (Great example in the 3rd set of photos here.) Here's the most important take-away, though: - The vast majority of women are wearing bras that are too big in the band size, and too small (by far) in the cup size. So after reading this excellent and easy guide for measuring yourself, I decided to measure myself. (It's just two measurements - easy peasy.) Then I plugged in the numbers to the bra calculator she links to and did a quadruple take. Then I went back and measured myself again because there was NO WAY I was the size it claimed. Then I did the numbers manually, using the graph in the same post. Same results. After the third measuring & calculating I finally gave up and decided to just go bra shopping. The proof is in the pudding, right? (Or in this case, the padding?) Ok, so now let's get nitty-gritty, girls. LET'S TALK NUMBERS. For the past few years I've been bumping up my band size, even though my weight has been the same. I could tell something wasn't fitting, what with the wires jabbing me and the gore* floating off my chest, but since I've never had much in the tracts of land department, I figured the band size was the only thing I could increase. So, I went from a 36B to all 38Bs. [*Technical term! That's the bridge between cups at the front. See? I told you I learned stuff!] Today I brought home 4 new bras that fit me just about perfectly. They're way more comfortable than my 38Bs, and they look about a million times better, too. Guess what size they are? 34D. 34 FREAKING D, you guys. And on some of those the cups are a smidge too small, but YOU try finding a 34DD at Ross or Marshall's. (The calculator actually tried to tell me I need a DDD, but since I'd have to order those online I think I'll start with these and reassess in a few months. According to the forum I might need a larger cup size then due to tissue migration, anyway.) How did I go from a 38B to a 34D? Simple. I put the bra on, bent at the waist, and scooped and adjusted until everything was up front and in place. Then I stood upright and goggled at my new found acreage. Believe it or not, I really was adjusting each time I suited up in my bras before - but not with the bending-at-the-waist, "scoop & swoop" method. That part is totally key. Turns out gravity is a powerful ally! You're probably thinking I can't breathe in my new bras, or that they're tight enough to make a Victorian lady gasp. Nope! They're snug, sure, but I can easily fit several fingers under the band. I actually measure exactly 35 inches, so I have to wear the 34s on the last hook - but that's good! See, another thing I learned: you should always buy bras that fit on the *last* hook, so you have room to tighten them as they stretch out over time. Again, that seems so obvious now - so why wasn't I doing it before?! (Because of the sister-sizes thing, I also picked up two 36C bras. They only fit on the tightest hooks, so they won't last as long as the 34Ds, but they're great for now.) Another benefit of the smaller bands: there's not as much weight on my shoulder straps. I'm hoping that means the straps won't be falling down as much, although only time will tell. Rapunzel Bra Top, $48 by ElectricAveCreations (I'm not usually one for frilly bras, but seriously: How cute is this?) Ok, ladies, so now it's your turn: Go measure yourself using this post as a guide. DO IT. Do it now!! Then go try on whatever bra size the post's calculator or graph tells you to. When you first try the new size on, it will feel too tight in the band and too big in the cup. DON'T PANIC. Just bend and scoop, baby! YEAH! (Sorry. Austin Power's moment.) And don't be surprised if your cups runneth over once you straighten up again! Believe it or not, I've only scratched the surface of bra anatomy, so you should really head over to that forum, A Bra That Fits, to explore and learn more for yourself. Check the sidebar for all the basics and more helpful guides like what I've listed here. Then go learn about tissue migration, shallow breasts, how to spot a proper fit, and all the rest! I'm telling you, there's at LEAST enough there to keep you reading 'til 3AM. Oh, and if you're curious how John feels about all this, let's just say he's the one who told me I HAVE to write this post, as a service to all mankind. Ha! He was as skeptical as I was initially, but after seeing my new sizes he's allll smiles. Please share your own experiences/knowledge in the comments, ladies, and let me know if that measurement system works for you! Also, HUGE shout-out to all the lovely contributors and moderators at A Bra That Fits. I'm not a Redditor, so I'll just say it here: You guys rock! Thank you!

This is a technique that I've been researching for quite some time. So when Sunni approached me about contributing to her Ginger sew-along ,...

White Elephant Happy Family Day, all! We hope you’re up for a safe, fun day with those closest to you, but perhaps you’d like to take a few minutes to yourself to read this week’s Vendor Spotlight. White Elephant…

Updated February 2023. The pattern now includes a separate PDF with row by row stitch counts for all sizes. The Basics Holden is a classic top-down triangular shawl. Inspired by the waves breaking along the shore, the shawl features wavy lace and is finished with a lovely picot edge. This pattern has been professionally tech edited by Heather Zoppetti and has been test knit. The pattern includes both written and charted instructions. Sizing Sizes S (M, L) 49 across x 23 deep (51.5 across x 26 deep, 71 across x 32 deep) in. 124.5 across x 58 deep (131 across x 66 deep, 180 across x 81 deep) cm. Yarn 430 (550, 800) yards/393 (503, 732) meters lace or fingering weight yarn. The small and large versions of the shawl are shown in Malabrigo Sock in Aguas (small) and Cote d’ Azure (large). The medium version of the shawl is shown in Malabrigo Lace in Emerald Blue. Needles US 5 (3.75 mm) for lace version/US 6 (4mm) for fingering version, 40 inch or longer circular needles, or size needed to achieve gauge. Notions Yarn needle, stitch marker(s) if desired. Gauge 18 sts and 30 rows/4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch, after blocking. Techniques Used Knitting Purling Decreasing (k2tog, ssk) Yarn overs Long tail cast on Garter tab Picot bind off

This Zip-Itself zipper coin purse is sewed from 2 simple materials - ribbon and zipper. Get the tutorial on how to sew Zip-Itself zipper coin purse with lining.

Zinck's Fabric Outlet in Berlin, Ohio is a dream come true for those who are crazy about fabric and all the creative possibilities it brings.

If you’re like many women, the standard B-cup of most commercial patterns isn’t enough to, ah, cover your bits without unsightly pulls and wrinkles. But with the popularity of wrap tops…

Here we go! I’m so excited to kick off this series of finger-knitting projects. For the first project, B proffered his largest ball of finger-knitting...

A collection of Mori Girl ( 森ガール) themed and inspired images: http://monmonmori.tumblr.com

Mrs Perkins' horns and other small parts can be tricky to turn and I often hear of people having piles of frayed horns after attempting again and again to turn the little fiddly pieces. I actually find it quite easy...

First, the fun news. There's a new sewing studio opening up nearby and I've been asked to teach a serger workshop. Beehive Sewing is a...

I'm going to show you how to do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on the armhole princess seam of the Jasper in two posts.

Hi friends! After a few days of being really sick i finally feel good enough to stare at the computer again and share this DIY. Somewhat recently my camera bag was stolen (luckily JUST the bag, not my camera) and I was bummed since I would have to re-buy but I also saw it as an opportunity to get a better (read: cuter) one. I often would not bring my camera places because I didn't want to carry around a camera bag with my purse and whatever else.. Either that or wrap egg crate or scarfs around my camera and stuff it in my purse. Neither were cutting it for me. I looked online and i found some good non-traditional camera bags that look like purses, but all of them were well over $100 and up to $300.. (if you put all the purses i've ever bought in my life together it still wouldn't come close to that total). Procrastination eventually lead to an idea in the back of my head of just making one myself. And after christmas I found the ideal shape/size purse at target on clearance. I got the rest of the supplies at joann fabric and made it in a night, while watching the beauty and the beast blu-ray. This purse probably wouldnt have been my first choice if I were just picking it out as a purse, but it looks a million times better than any plain camera bag so i'm very pleased! And it all cost less than $20. (Edited to add updated pictures and note: December 2011 p.s. This has held up surprisingly well.. i've been using it for exactly a year now. I use it daily and have also taken it on MANY trips and its still in great condition.. no wear on the padding, no tears or anything. easily one of the most useful and fun projects i've done!) a better picture of the inserts out of the purse ^ --------------------------------- and a photobooth picture to show my camera inside Here we go, I'll try to explain this the best i can.. You'll need: a purse/bag - i wanted something very specific..ie: just tall enough for a DSLR, just wide enough for the camera to sit flat, a tapered top so its easy to carry, zipper closure, room to fit other lenses and camera equipment and also room for a small wallet and other everyday things. 3/4 inch foam - 1/4 yard 1/2 inch foam - 1/4 - 1/3 yard, depending on how many inserts you want. 1 yard of fabric to cover foam - you might not need a whole yard, but i wanted to make a whole bunch of extra inserts just in case some get lost. Velcro - one package should do Opt: velcro glue I measured the inside of my bag, and decided i wanted foam on all sides (bottom, both long sides and both short sides). These are the measurements i used for my foam, yours will probably be different but overall it should be around the same size. Bottom pad: 13 1/2" x 4 3/8" using 3/4" foam Short sides: 4 1/2" x 4 3/8" (make 2) Lens dividers: 7 1/2" x 3" (make atleast 3) Straight divider: 4 1/2" x 3 1/2" (make 2) Long side pads: 10" x 4 1/2" (make 2) Now, use all these foam pieces as a pattern for the fabric, adding about an inch to all sides for seam allowance. Cut two pieces of fabric for each foam insert (obviously!).. Note: For the lens divider, add 2 inches to the short ends so you have little flaps to sew velcro onto. Decide where you want your velcro and cut to size and sew onto right side of fabric. Now, sew three sides of the fabric, and stick the foam in, making a pillowcase type thing for the foam, then fold in and pin the opening closed and sew shut. (Alternately, you could use velcro glue to glue the velcro anywhere you wanted to save you some trouble.. but i opted to sew my velcro on) When you are done sewing all your pieces together use velcro glue to put velcro on the inside and bottom of the purse to keep your main foam pieces in place. Add your dividers and you're set. If you have ANY experience sewing you can definitely do this, and even you don't, i bet you could. I just made it up as i went along and made it work and it turned out extremely well! There are so many little parts to it, it can seem overwhelming but it was actually super easy and quick. I have a hard time explaining things like this all at once, so if you have any questions, feel free to email them to me. [email protected]

A look at ways to stay toasty! A picture tells a thousand words... after trying to drop hints to people, I realized Flickr members have pictures to illustrate these concepts. A lot of these methods are traditional, simple, cheap, and give immediate results. Also see How to stay Hot (1), and How to stay Cool (in summer) Thanks for letting me add these photos to this gallery!

CIU Challenge QAL We wanted to check in with everyone who is participating in our CIU Challenge QAL. We hope you are all having fun with the CIU blocks and challenging yourself to come up with something you love! I've had a blast challenging myself to come up with a new design. Here is my latest creation. I'm making four of these HUGE blocks and sewing them together to create my end design. The border was an after thought yesterday and I love how it really sets off the block design! I did up a sample of what blocks I used from the CIU pattern and where they go to create my design. I used the Churndash, Sawtooth, Ninepatch and Curvygeese blocks. You can see above, where they go in my design. I'm using beautiful "Cherie" fabric from Frances Newcombe with Art Gallery Fabrics. Sherilyn is having so much fun with the Challenge that she has started another quilt and here is her first block. Gotta love that Flea Market Fancy!! Remember to share your WIP's with us on our Flickr Group and also #ciuchalleng on IG. Now for the Giveaway! For a chance to win 3 Sew Kind of Wonderful PDF patterns, leave a comment telling us your favorite color combination right now. That's it!! We will announce the winner Saturday morning. Happy Quilting! Jenny, Helen and Sheriln

Courtesy of Chef's Table star Alex Atala, this latest home cooking recipe is one you gotta add to your rotation immediately.

In hoping that some of you may want to explore pojagi style patchwork as well, I thought it would be helpful to post tutorials on the two types of seams that I have been using in creating my pojagi pieces. I've broken with tradition and have chosen to machine stitch these panels, but remember, pojagi is traditionally done by hand, so feel free to use these methods with hand stitching, too! The first tutorial is how I made the seams on my previous panel shown in the post below. The second tutorial is what I used on my most recent panel, shown in the post above. (It probably would have been much more helpful had I used two different colors of fabric... sorry about that!) Tutorial #1: Note: This is a non-traditional method, but it offers a unique way of creating seams and in my opinion, has a more utilitarian/work-cloth look and feel. It has fewer steps then the second approach, but is actually a bit more time consuming to do. 1. Place 2 pieces of fabric, right sides together, lining up the top edges. Sew a 1/2" seam allowance. 2. Press seam allowance open. 3. Fold both raw edges of seam allowance in and under. Press flat with a hot iron. 4. Stitch both folded edges of seam allowance down. (I used a zig zag stitch, but you can use a blanket stitch, or a straight stitch... or what ever rocks your boat!) This is what it looks like on the other side. (Technically this would be the "right' side.) Tutorial #2: Note: This method goes faster the the first method and offers a more traditional pogaji look. I adapted it from a tutorial that I found on mairuru. You can see her hand stitched version here 1. Position 2 pieces of fabric, right sides together, with the bottom fabric raised 3/8" higher then the top fabric. 2. Using the top edge of the top fabric as a guide, sew a 1/4" seam allowance. 3. Fold extended edge of bottom fabric over the top fabric, lining up the fabric edge to the stitched seam. Press with a hot iron. 4. Flip the top fabric upwards, so it is now on top of the folded seam allowance. Press flat. 5. Flip the 2 fabrics over and you will see your stitched line and the folded flap of the seam allowance. 6. Staying as close to the folded edge as possible, stitch the seam allowance down. You have now completed one seam. As you can see, there are two stitched lines on this side... ... and one stitched line on the other side. (Technically this would be the "right" side.) Hope this makes sense!

a pile of old mismatched buttons! I sewed and sewed and sewed....

The original "This Took Forever™" woven labels! Affix these to your handmade projects and let them know it wasn't just made it with love, it also took forever to make. There are four woven labels per pack. 4, pre-cut, sew-in labels.  each label measures 3" long x 5/8" wide ends are heat-sealed so they won't fray The other messages you see are available here!

Getting Started: Supplies!! ~Let's go shopping!~ The most important of sewing tools, of course, is T he Sewing Machine . My humble Singe...