Häkel dir einen lässig sportiven Pullover mit außergewöhnlichem Rautenmuster.

Amigurumi free patterns... You can find interesting ideas, tutorials and crochet tutorials about amigurumi dog here. Lots of amigurumi free crochet patterns are waiting for you.

The swoncho (a mixed shape between the sweater and poncho) has been on my designing list for a couple of years now. And today I am excited to say that I have finally brought this idea to life. Let me introduce – a Polar Swoncho. A comfy and snaggy garment for everyday wear. The pattern is free on my blog below, but if you prefer an ads-free version in one printable pdf file, you can find it HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy. Materials: Scheepjes Terrazzo (70% Recycled Mulesing Free Wool x 30% Recycled Viscose; 50g/175m) You can find Terrazzo via your local Scheepjes shops, and via online retailers: Wool Warehouse* (UK, international shipping), Caro's Atelier* (NL and Europe), Taemombo (US and Canada). Here is the list of the colors and yarn amounts for some colors. As you can see, only 1/2 skein was used for some colors, so you can play around and use less colors for your swoncho. Or go creative and use leftovers from your stash. Yarn A: 741 Cenere (747 Tortora) x8 balls / 13 balls Yarn B: 745 Pergamena (740 Piuma) x1 ball /1 ball Yarn C: 735 Fontana (749 Caffe Nero) x1 ball (21g) / 1 ball (25g) Yarn D: 736 Bolle (746 Sabbia) x1 ball / 2 balls (52g) Yarn E: 720 Sangria (710 Pera) x1 ball (25g) / 1 ball (27g) Yarn F: 712 Sassolino (756 Guscio d'Uovo) x1 ball / 2 balls (57g) Yarn G: 730 Melanzana (748 Cioccolato) x1 ball (30g) / 1 ball (33g) 3mm, 3.5mm and 4mm crochet hook (or the size to obtain correct gauge) Sizes: 1 (2) Size 1 will fit XXS-L Size 2 will fit XL-3X Lower body circumference: 172 (205) cm/68¼ (93¼) in Sleeve circumference at elbow: 28 (42.5) cm/11 (16 ¾) in Gauge for beginning of the yoke: 24 sts x 22 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/ 4 x 4in, blocked (every sc and every ch1 and will count as 1 st) Gauge for lower body: 22 sts x 22 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/ 4 x 4in, blocked (every sc and every ch1 and will count as 1 st) Abbreviations (US terms) beg begin(ning) blo back loop(s) only BOR beginning of the round ch chain stitch cont continue corr corresponding dc double crochet dc3tog double crochet 3 together prev previous RS right side sc single crochet ss slip stitch st(s) stitch(es) sp(s) space(s) yo yarn over the hook pm place marker prev previous WS wrong side Pattern repeats: […] repeat instruction inside […] as many times as indicated in the pattern. *…; rep instruction after * as many times as indicated in the pattern. Pattern notes: The Polar Swoncho (sweater&poncho) is designed in two sizes. It is worked seamlessly top down. First, the ribbing with slip stitches in back loops only is worked vertically, then some short rows are done to raise the back neck. Then the deep and wide mosaic yoke is worked down to separation for body and sleeves. The sleeves are ribbed, and you can make them longer for a cuffed version. Then the lower body is worked in rounds to the desired length and is finished with ribbing. INSTRUCTIONS An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2022. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video tutorials are not allowed. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you! Purchase ads-free printable pdf with Polar Poncho pattern on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE. the file includes all written instructions and link to the video tutorial without ads. Video tutorial: YOKE Beg with Yarn A and 3mm hook. Row 1: Ch7, 1ss in second ch from hook, 1ss in each ch across, turn – 6 ss. Row 2: Ch1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), 1ss blo in each st across, turn. Rep Row 2 until you have 68 (84) ridges (or 136 (168) rows in total). Join short sides of the ribbing with flat zip method on RS and cont working along the long edge of the ribbing. Round 1: Change to 3.5mm hook. Ch1, [1sc in next ridge, ch1] rep around, ss to beg sc – 136 (168) sts counting every sc and every ch1-sp as a st; or 68 (84) sc & ch-sps. Round 2: Ch1, [1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around, ss to beg sc.   SHORT ROWS Short row 1: Ch1, 1sc in next sp (pm for BOR – centre back), [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp] rep 16 (18) times, ch1, skip 1 st, 1ss in next sp, turn. Short row 2: Ch1, skip ss, 1sc in next sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp] rep to BOR, ch1 (pm), skip BOR, 1sc in same sp as BOR, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp] rep 16 (18) times, ch1, skip 1 st, 1ss in next sp, turn. Short row 3: Ch1, skip ss, 1sc in next sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp] rep to 4sc and 3 ch1-sps left before edge of prev short row (moving BOR m up to corr st/sp), ch1, skip 1 st, 1ss in next sp, turn. Rep Short row 3 three more times. Next row (RS): Ch1, skip ss, 1sc in next sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp] rep to last sc before marked BOR sp, ch1, skip 1 st, 1ss to marked sp, turn. Resume working in rounds. Next round (WS): Ch1, 1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st, [1sc, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around skipping the bumps/steps on the edges of the short rows and working sc in same sp as ss; at the same time work (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in any space at centre front, join with ss to beg sc, turn – 68 (84) sc & ch-sps. IMPORTANT! Gauge check: at this point the gauge should be 24 sts per 10cm/4in (slightly stretched or blocked) – to Mosaic Panel 5. INC SET 1 (RS): Ch1, [1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around, ss to beg sc, turn – 102 (126) sc & ch-sps. Next round (WS): Ch1, 1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st, [1sc, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around, ss to beg sc, turn. MOSAIC PANEL 1 Round 1 (RS): Ch1 changing to Yarn B (do not cut Yarn A), 1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st, [1sc, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around, ss to beg sc, turn. Rounds 2-4: Cont with Yarn B and rep Round 1 alternating RS and WS. Round 5 (RS): Ch1 changing to Yarn C (do not cut Yarn B), [1sc in next sp, 1dc in skipped st from 3 round below, 1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around, ss to beg sc, turn. Round 6 (WS): Cont with Yarn C. Ch1, [1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around, ss to beg sc, turn. Round 7 (RS): Ch1 changing back to Yarn B by grabbing it up on WS (make sure the float of yarn does not pull) and cut Yarn C leaving approx. 25cm/10in tail for safe weaving, [1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, 1dc in skipped st from 3 rounds below] rep around, ss to beg sc, turn. Round 8 (WS): Cont with Yarn B. Ch1, [1sc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around, ss to beg sc, turn. Round 9 (RS): Change back to Yarn A (cut Yarn B), rep Round 1. INC SET 2: Ch1, *[1sc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st] twice, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * around, ss to beg sc, turn – 136 (168) sc & ch-sps. MOSAIC PANEL 2 Rep Rounds 1-9 from Mosaic Panel 1 using Yarn D and Yarn E for contrast color. Then rep round 9 once more. MOSAIC PANEL 3 Rep Rounds 1-9 from Mosaic Panel 1 using Yarn F and Yarn G for contrast color. INC SET 3: Ch1, *[1sc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st] three times, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * around, ss to beg sc, turn – 170 (210) sc & ch-sps. MOSAIC PANEL 4 Rep Rounds 1-9 from Mosaic Panel 1. Then rep round 9 once more. MOSAIC PANEL 5 Change to 4mm hook or stay with 3.5mm and work a little looser. The gauge should change to approx. 22sts per 10cm/4in, slightly stretched, or blocked. Rep Rounds 1-9 from Mosaic Panel 1 using Yarn D and Yarn E as contrast color. INC SET 4: Ch1, *[1sc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st] four times, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * around, ss to beg sc, turn – 204 (252) sc & ch-sps. MOSAIC PANEL 6 Rep Rounds 1-9 from Mosaic Panel 1 using Yarn F and Yarn G for contrast color. Then rep round 9 once more. Then rep Round 1 from Mosaic panel 1 – seven more times, alternating RS and WS in the following order of colors: C, A, E, A, G, A, C. INC SET 5: Ch1, *[1sc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st] five times, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * around, ss to beg sc, turn – 238 (294) sc & ch-sps. Cont with Yarn A and rep Round 1 from Mosaic Panel 1 until yoke is approx. 50cm/20in measured on front down from neck opening (should be just below elbow). Work last round on WS. SEPARATION for BODY and SLEEVES Separation round (RS): Ch1, 1sc in next st, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp] rep 45 (53) times for half back, ch7 (13), skip 55 (81) sts for one sleeve, 1sc in next sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next sp] rep 91 (106) times for front, ch7 (13), skip 55 (81) sts for another sleeve, [1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st] rep 46 (53) times, ss to beg sc, turn – 380 (452) sts for lower body counting both ch-bridges. LOWER BODY Round 1 (WS): Ch1, [1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around treating every underarm ch as one st, ss to beg sc, turn – 190 (226) sc & ch-sps. Round 2: Ch1, [1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around, ss to beg sc, turn. Rep round 2 until lower body is approx. 20 (25) cm/7¾ (9¾) in measured down from the underarm, or 2cm shorter than desired length. Then proceed to ribbing. Ribbing for lower body Work horizontally (side to side) around the bottom of the body with 3mm hook. Row 1 (RS): Ch8, beg in second ch from hook, 7ss, 1ss in next sc lower body, turn – 8 sts. Row 2 (WS): Ch1, skip ss worked on lower body, 7ss blo, turn – 7 sts. Row 3 (RS): Ch1, 7ss, 1ss in next sc lower body, turn – 8 sts. Row 4 (WS): Ch1, skip ss worked on lower body, 7ss blo, turn – 7 sts. Rows 5-8: Rep Rows 3-4 twice. Row 9: Ch1, 7ss blo, 1ss in next sp on lower body, turn – 8 sts. Row 10: Ch1, skip ss worked on lower body, 7ss blo, turn – 7 sts. Rep rows 3-10 around. Join short sides of ribbing with flat zip method, fasten off. SLEEVES (both alike) With RS facing you, attach Yarn A with ss in a central space in the underarm. Round 1: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1sc in same sp as join, ch1, skip 1 st, [1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around, ss to beg sc, turn – 31 (47) sc & ch-sps. Round 2: Ch1, [1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around, ss to beg sc, turn. Rep round 2 until sleeve is approx. 13cm/5in measured from underarm. Proceed to Ribbing. Ribbing for sleeves Work horizontally (side to side) around the bottom of the body with 3mm hook. Row 1 (RS): Ch32 (or more if you prefer a cuffed sleeve), beg in second ch from hook, 31ss, 1ss in next sc of lower body, turn – 32 sts. Row 2 (WS): Ch1, skip ss worked on lower body, 31ss blo, turn – 31 sts. Row 3 (RS): Ch1, 31ss, 1ss in next sc of lower body, turn – 32 sts. Row 4 (WS): Ch1, skip ss worked on lower body, 31ss blo, turn – 31 sts. Rows 5-8: Rep Rows 3-4 twice. Row 9: Ch1, 31ss blo, 1ss in next sp on lower body, turn – 32 sts. Row 10: Ch1, skip ss worked on lower body, 31ss blo, turn – 31 sts. Rep rows 3-10 around. Join short sides of ribbing with flat zip method, fasten off. Purchase ads-free printable pdf with Polar Poncho pattern on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE. the file includes all written instructions and link to the video tutorial without ads. Congratulations! Your Polar Swoncho is now finished! Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.

Gör något användbart av de sista metrarna garn.

We gather the best crochet men sweater patterns here; you can benefit from these ideas to add a stylized touch to your hubby's wear.

Först och främst vill jag tacka alla som hört av sig med trevliga kommentarer och mail angående mina virkade ugglor, det är alltid roligt med positiv respons på det man gör. Flera har hört av sig och undrat över om jag inte vill dela med mig av mönstret. Jag har virkat mina ugglor efter eget huvud och inte haft något färdigt mönster, nu har jag äntligen tagit mig tid att skriva ner hur jag har gjort. Jag blev inspirerad av Fru Persson på Pälsärmen söta små ugglor, om ni inte redan har tittat in till henne så gör det, hon bjuder på massor av härlig inspiration. Till alla er som vill virka en egen uggla, efter ett mönster, kommer här ett uggletutorial. Ett uppdaterat nytt ugglemönster hittar ni HÄR OBS! Att tänka på när man virkar efter mina mönster Varsågod att använda mina mönster fritt. men glöm inte att ange mig som mönster designer och att länka till den här bloggen. Det hade också varit roligt att få se era resultat, så skicka gärna en länk eller bild! Kommentera gärna om det finns frågor kring mönstret, eller om något fel upptäcks. Till en uggla som blir ca 20 cm hög har jag använt mig av 1, 1/2 nystan ljusgrått Tilda garn från Svarta Fåret plus lite mörkgrått, vitt, svart och orange. Virknål nr 3 Virknålar och Tillbehör Börja med att virka de bägge vingarna. Virka 17 luftmaskor. V 1: Vänd och stick ner virknålen i andra maskan. Virka varvet ut med fasta maskor och avsluta med en luftmaska. (16 fm ) V 2.-6: Vänd och virka fasta maskor, avsluta varje varv med en luftmaska V 7: I början på varje varv hoppar du över den förstas maskan så att arbetet minskar en maska på bredden för varje varv 15, 14, 13 och så vidare tills det endast återstår 3 maskor. (varje varv avslutas som vanligt med en luftmaska) Virka fasta maskor runt vingen, för att slippa fästa lösa trådar så passa på att virka in dem någon cm, man håller trådarna bakom arbetet liggandes vid kanten och virkar under och runt dem. När man har kommit ner till till de sista 3 fasta maskorna på vingen virkar man 2 fasta maskor i den första, 1 fast maska och 2 fasta maskor i den tredje. Klipp bort trådarna på baksidan och fäst den sista tråden. Ugglekropp: lm = luftmaskor fm = fasta maskor. virka 2 lm V 1: 6 fm i andra lm från nålen V 2: 2 fm i varje fm - 12 m V 3: 1 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm, upprepa varvet ut = 18 m V 4: 2 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm, upprepa varvet ut = 24 m V 5: 3 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm, upprepa varvet ut = 30 m V 6: 4 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm, upprepa varvet ut = 36 m V 7: 5 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm, upprepa varvet ut = 42 m V 8: 6 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm, upprepa varvet ut = 48 m V 9: 7 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm, upprepa varvet ut = 54 m V 10: 8 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm, upprepa varvet ut = 60 m V 11: 9 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm, upprepa varvet ut = 66 m V 12: 10 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm, upprepa varvet ut = 72 m V 13: 11 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm, upprepa varvet ut = 78 m V 14: 12 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm, upprepa varvet ut = 84 m Sätt en markör ( en liten garntråd går också bra) så att du vet var varven börjar och slutar. OBS! Man virkar hela tiden runt utan att virka en lm i början av varje varv. Flytta upp markören efter varv 14 Nu virkar man 26 varv runt om utan ökningar. Nu är det dags att virka fast vingarna. Ta ena vingen och virka med den i arbetet i 16 fm Virka 26 maskor. virka fast den andra vingen med 16 fm. Virka 26 fm. På det första varvet, efter det att vingen har blivit ditsatt, virkar man ihop femte och sjätte m varvet ut och på det följande varvet virkar man ihop fjärde och femte m varvet ut. Om man vill ha små "fjädrar" på ugglans mage broderar man små stygn med jämna mellanrum Fortsätt att virka runt i ytterligare 21 varv. Ögon: virka 2 lm i vitt garn V1: 6 fm i andra lm från nålen V2: 2 fm i varje fm - 12 m V3: 1 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm upprepa varvet ut = 18 m V4: 2 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm, upprepa varvet ut = 24 m V5: 3 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm, upprepa varvet ut = 30 m V6: virka runt om 30 m, avsluta med en smygmaska i nästa fm, från föregående varv, ta av garnet, lämna en ca 30 cm lång tråd. Virka 2 lm i svart garn V1: 6 fm i andra lm från nålen V2: 2 fm i varje fm - 12 m V3: 1 fm, 2 fm i nästa fm m, upprepa varvet ut = 18 m avsluta med en smygmaska i nästa fm, från föregående varv. Lämna en ca 30 cm lång tråd. Vill man ha en större pupill virkar man bara något varv extra, pröva dig fram tills du känner dig nöjd. Sy fast de svarta cirkeln mitt på den vita. Om man vill att ugglan ska blunda broderar man små stygn. Placera nu ögonen på ugglans kropp så som du vill ha dem. Sy fast ögonen. Avsluta med att sy två små stygn i ytterkanten av det svarta. Så här ser det ut inne i ugglan, lämna trådarna som blir kvar inne i kroppen. Brodera näbb. I botten på ugglan använder jag mig av plastgranulat, det ger ugglan lite extra tyngd och balans. Plastgranulat hittar man hos Virknålar och Tillbehör Fyll med vadd och virka ihop ugglekroppen. Klipp av tråden och fäst den med ett par stygn. Klipp till 5st ca 30 cm långa garntrådar i olika färger. Med hjälp av virknålen hämtar man upp dem som en ögla och trär igenom trådarna så att det blir en knut längst ner "örontoffsarna" är klara. Nu är ugglan klar. Vill man ha ugglor i mindre storlekar är det bara att minska ner på lm till vingarna och virka färre fm. Minska även ner på varven, ugglan blir då så stor som du själv vill ha den. Jag tror att jag har fått med allt men det kan hända att jag kanske missat någon detalj, hör av dig om du undrar över något. Lycka till. Till er som precis har börjat virka och till alla er som har virkat i många år vill jag varmt rekommendera Stora boken om virkning En bok för alla som gillar att virka. "Du kommer ständigt att återkomma till den här boken för att få svar på alla dina frågor om virkning. Här förklaras olika tekniker och vilken utrustning du behöver".

Product information Brand:: Hobbii Material: Stainless steel/Aluminum & TPR Sizes: 0.5 - 10.0 mm ( P-10.5 ) Length: 13 - 13.7 cm (5.1 - 5.4") Color: Varies according to size

About Our DesignerSuppliesPattern Details Are you ready to cozy and comfy in the cooler seasons? This sweater will bring that to life for you. Created using just 2 simple stitches, packed with simple textures, will make you sailing through this like a breeze. It’s like sitting on the couch with a nice fresh cup of coffee and cuddling with a blanket, just pull on this sweater and it will do that charm for you, giving you that toasty warm feature you get with your favorite blanket. This will be your new favorite item. Wear this out on those cooler mornings to grab your favorite drink or any adventure your heart is set on. This will be your new favorite paired to any outfit or just taking the day to relax. This sweater is totally Unisex making it for anyone, to enjoy the warmth this will provide. ABOUT OUR DESIGNER My name Colt. I am based under the spacious blue skies of Wyoming, in a small old mining town. I am the maker and designer behind MM_Crochet17. I started crocheting back in 2016, after Thanksgiving, I was taught by Mother-In-Law. Shortly after that, I taught myself how to read patterns and venturing into a wide range of stitches, even taking on advanced stitches as a beginner. In 2017, I designed my first pattern and haven’t stopped since than. My biggest inspirations, are from my memories and nature. I enjoy making accessories, home decor and garments. Plus, I have a love for simple stitches, puff’s and those bold popping stitches. Follow Colt Instagram | Pinterest | Website | Facebook | Ravelry SUPPLIES Yarn: Worsted Weight 4 such as Furls Wander Yarn (sample uses: Red Heart Yarn Super Saver in Grey Heather and White) Approximate Yardage: 1300-1400 (1400-1500, 1500-1600, 1600-1700, 1700-1800, 1900-2000, 2000-2100, 2100-2200) Hook:Furls Streamline Swirl H/5mm or hook to obtain gaugeTapestry Needle (for weaving in ends)Tape Measure Scissors Stitch Markers Product Tag (optional) PATTERN DETAILS Skill LevelBeginner + Gauge15 stitches x 14 rows = 4” square Alternating between HDC and Camel When testing gauge in pattern, R3-16. R1: Ch17, in the 3rd ch from HDC and HDC in each remaining ch. (15)R2: Ch1 and turn, Camel in same stitch and in each remaining stitch. (15)R3: Ch2 and turn, HDC in same stitch and in each remaining stitch. (15)R4: Ch1 and turn, Camel in same stitch and in each remaining stitch. (15)R5-R14: repeat R3&4. Take your tape measure and measure your square, to see if it is 4”. If not either go up or down a hook size. Sizes/Measurements 2-4” of ease between each size Small — Width: 24.25” (fit chest size of 34”-36”) Length: 23.75 Medium — Width: 27” (fit chest size of 38”-40”) Length: 27”Large — Width: 29.75 (fit chest size of 42”-44”) Length: 30.25”X-Large — Width: 32.5” (fit chest of 46”-48”) Length: 33.5”2X — Width: 35.25”(fit chest size of 50”-52”) Length: 36.753X — Width: 38” (fit chest size of 54”-56”) Length: 40”4x — Width: 40.75” (fit chest size of 58”-60”) Length: 43.25”5x — Width: 43.5” (fit chest size of 62”-64”) Length: 46.5” Crochet Stitch Abbreviations Ch: chain R: row SC: single crochet HDC: half double crochet Camel: camel stitch Slst: slip stitch WS: wrong side RS: right side DEC: decrease BLO: back loop only FO: fasten off YO: yarn over (): stitch counts and notes Sk: skip **: to be repeated Special Stitches Camel Stitch: since we are working in turning rows, this stitch is created using a sc in the 3rd loop that is on the front side of the stitch, below the 1st loop. With locating the loop on the front side of previous stitch, insert your hook into the stitch, YO, pull up a loop, 2 loops on your hook, YO, pull through both loops to complete your stitch. SCDEC: this stitch created by using up a set of 2 stitches, insert hook into indicated stitch, YO, pull up a loop (2 loops on your hook), insert your hook into next stitch, YO, pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook), YO and pull through all loops to complete your stitch. HDCDEC: this stitch is created by using up a set of 2 stitches, YO, insert your hook into indicated stitch, YO, pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook), YO, insert your hook into next stitch, YO, pull up a loop (5 loops on your hook), YO and pull through all 5 loops to complete your stitch. Notes US Crochet Terminology is used. This pattern is worked in turning rows. Ch’s at the beginning of the rows, don’t count as a stitch. When doing your Border Ribbing, place 2 stitch markers in the next 2 stitches where your Slst’s will be placed, for easy finding. Pattern is worked in 2 rectangle panels, seaming them together, making the sleeves on both sides and the lastly doing the neck collar. Your HDC are worked on the RS and Camel stitches are worked on the WS. The sleeves can be made short sleeved, 3/4 long sleeved or you can keep them full lengthen sleeved. This clearly in your preference. This sweater has more of oversized feel, making it like you’re wearing a blanket. Panels (make 2) RS R1: ch 93(100, 107, 114, 121, 128, 135, 142), in 3rd Ch from hook HDC and HDC in each remaining Ch. (91, 98, 105, 112, 119, 126, 133, 140) WS R2: Ch1 and turn, SC in same stitch and in each remaining stitch. (91, 98, 105, 112, 119, 126, 133, 140) RS R3: Ch2 and turn, HDC in same stitch and in each remaining stitch. (91, 98, 105, 112, 119, 126, 133, 140) WS R4: Ch1 and turn, Camel in same stitch and in each remaining stitch. (91, 98, 105, 112, 119, 126, 133, 140) RS R5: Ch2 and turn, HDC in same stitch and in each remaining stitch. (91, 98, 105, 112, 119, 126, 133, 140) R6-129: Repeat R’s 4&5. Size Small: stop on RS R59. Size Medium: stop on RS R69. Size Large: stop on RS R79.Size XL: stop on RS R89. Size 2X: stop on RS R99. Size 3X: stop on RS R109Size 4X: stop on RS R119. Size 5X: stop on RS R129. Carry onto the last row listed below, to finish your panel. WS R60: Ch1 and turn, SC in same stitch and in each remaining stitch. (91, 98, 105, 112,, 119, 126, 133, 140) (Stop here for Size Small) WS R70: Ch1 and turn, SC in same stitch and in each remaining stitch. (98, 105, 112, 119, 126, 133, 140) (Stop here for size Medium) WS R80: Ch1 and turn, SC in same stitch and in each remaining stitch. (105, 112, 119, 126, 133, 140) (Stop here for size Large) WS R90: Ch1 and turn, SC in same stitch and in each remaining stitch. (112, 119, 126, 133, 140) (Stop here for size X-Large) WS R100: Ch1 and turn, SC in same stitch and in each remaining stitch. (119, 126, 133, 140) (Stop here for size 2X) WS R110: Ch1 and turn, SC in same stitch and in each remaining stitch. (126, 133, 140) (Stop here for size 3X) WS R120: Ch1 and turn, SC in same stitch and in each remaining stitch. (133, 140) (Stop here for size 4X) WS R130: Ch1 and turn, SC in same stitch and in each remaining stitch. (140) (Stop here for size 5X) FO and weave in your ends. Now… let’s move onto the ribbing along the bottom. Border Ribbing This is for all Sizes. Attach your yarn in the bottom right corner facing you with a Slst and Ch17. R1: SC in the 2nd Ch from hook and in each of the remaining 15 Ch’s, Slst in same stitch as your join and over in the next stitch. (16) R2: Turn, Sk the 2 Slst’s, SC in the next stitch, SC in BLO of the next 14 stitches, SC in the last stitch. (16) R3: Ch1 and turn, SC in same stitch, SC in the BLO of the next 14 stitches, SC in the last stitch, Slst over the next 2 stitches. (16) R4: Turn, Sk the 2 Slst’s, SC in the next stitch, SC in BLO of the next 14 stitches, SC in the last stitch. (16) Repeat Rows 3&4 until the you reach the end. You will have the same amount of SC rows in your ribbing as you do stitches in your rows of your panel. FO and weave in your ends. Now… we will move onto seaming up your sweater. Seaming This is for all sizes. After completing both of your panels, you will want the WS facing you and RS facing inward, count down 25 rows from the top of your sweater, place a stitch maker her (you will leave 25 rows un-seamed, will create the armholes). Then, place a stitch marker in 7th stitch of the bottom ribbing. Repeat this on the other panel as well. Line up the 2 panels, choosing any seam of your preference, seam up the sides of your sweater, repeating on the other side as well (I used the SC seam, because it has a stronger hold). Weave in any loose ends. Tip: you don’t have to create the slit on the ribbing like I have done, you can seam it all up. Keep your sweater facing this away, don’t turn inside out yet. Move onto shoulder seaming. Shoulder Seaming This is for both sides of the sweater, to make it even. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch on the top row of your panels. Measure approximately 8” across the top and place another stitch marker. Repeat on the other side. The space left between the 2 center stitch markers will be the neck opening. You can adjust the opening to make it wider or smaller, as long as the number of stitches for the neck opening is an even number. Using your preferred seaming method, then, seam up your shoulders between each set of stitch markers. Now, turn your sweater back inside out, with your WS facing in this time. Now, move onto attaching your sleeves, which are worked onto the sweater. Sleeves (2) This is for all sizes. Repeating on the other armhole. You will be working in turning rows, with a Slst to join, and before turning you ch before beginning next row. RS R1: attach your yarn with a Slst on the left side of the underarm seam in the HDC row, HDC in the same stitch, *HDC in the SC row, HDC in the HDC row,* repeat that up till you have 1 row left, HDC in the last SC row, Sk the top seam, HDC in the SC row, *HDC in the HDC row, HDC in the SC row,* repeat that down, ending with 1 row left this would be the last HDC row place a HDC here, Slst to first stitch to join. (52HDC) Ch1 and turn WS R2: Sk the Slst, SC in the next stitch and each stitch around. Slst to first stitch to join. (52) Ch1 and turn RS R3: Sk the Slst, HDC in the next stitch and each stitch around. Slst to first stitch to join. (52) Ch1 and turn WS R4: Sk the Slst, SCDEC in the next 2 stitches, camel around until 2 stitches remain, SCDEC in the last 2 stitches, Slst to first stitch to join. (50) Ch1 and turn RS R5: Sk the Slst, HDC in next stitch and in each stitch around, Slst to first stitch to join. (50) Ch1 and turn WS R6: Sk the Slst, Camel in next stitch and in each stitch around, Slst to first stitch to join. (50) Ch1 and turn RS R7: Sk the Slst, HDC in next stitch and in each stitch around, Slst to first stitch to join. (50) Ch1 and turn WS R8: Sk the Slst, Camel in next stitch and each stitch around, Slst to first stitch to join. (50) Ch1 and turn RS R9: Sk the Slst, HDC in next stitch and each stitch around, Slst to first stitch to join. (50) Ch1 and turn WS R10: Sk the Slst, Camel in next stitch and in each stitch around, change to 2nd color before completing last stitch, Slst to first stitch to join. (50) Ch1 and turn R11-60: repeat R’s 9&10. On the tenth row, make sure you are switching colors between MC and CC. Once you complete R60, you don’t need to change your color at this point. R61: Sk the Slst, Slst in next stitch and in each remaining stitch around, Slst FO and weave in your ends. Now, you can move onto the other sleeve. After completing your 2nd sleeve, Now… we will move onto the Neck Collar. Neck Collar This is for all sizes. Here, I haven’t given any stitch counts for the other sizes, as the stitch count will be based on your liking from how you seamed your shoulders and left the opening for your neck. Attach your yarn with a Slst in the stitch before the shoulder seam, as it blends well with the layout of the design. R1: Ch1, SC in the same stitch where you attached your yarn, SCDEC in the 2 stitches where you ended your seam (skip the seam), SC in each stitch across until you get to one stitch before the next shoulder seam, SCDEC in the stitches where you ended your seam (skip the seam), sc in each stitch across, Slst to first stitch to join. R2: Ch1, Slst in the same stitch and in each stitch around (make sure you make your Slst’s are loose as will be going back into them to create the ribbing), Slst into the beginning Ch1 of the row. Don’t FO. Neck Ribbing This will used for all sizes. R1: ch7, sc in the second ch from your hook and in each remaining ch, Slst in the first stitch and second stitch, TURN (6) R2: sk the 2 Slst’s, sc in the next stitch, sc in the BLO of next 4 stitches, sc in the last stitch, CH1 and TURN (6) R3: sc in the 1st stitch, sc in the BLO of next 4 stitches, sc in the last stitch, Slst over the next 2 stitches, TURN (6) R4: sk in the 2 Slst’s, sc in the next stitch, sc in the BLO of next 4 stitches, sc in the last stitch, CH1 and TURN (6) Repeat R’s 3&4 around the neck. You will end with R4, you won’t CH1 and TURN. FO and leave a long tail for seaming. Turn your sweater inside out. Use any seaming technique to bring the 2 ends of the neck ribbing together (I used the Slst seam to bring them together), to close them, going in the 6 stitches on both sides. FO and weave in your ends and remaining ends. Make sure you block your new sweater. Thank you for making this sweater with me. Excited to see what colors you are going to choose. Love this gender neutral sweater? Check out these other patterns! Polcinigo Poncho by Rebekah Haas Balsam Alpine Cowl by Lorene Eppolite

Aujourd'hui nous avons décider de mettre en ligne un modèle doudou au tricot gratuit afin de vous suggérer des idées une fois votre pelote et vos aiguilles en main.

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Akua Lezli Hope Southern Finger Lakes New York United States of America http://www.akualezlihope.com http://www.zencrochet.blogspot.com The Southern Finger Lakes Region of New York State includes urban areas but is predominantly rural, full of farms, fields and woodlands. There are many species in our lands. The work includes red cardinal that sparks winter views, the black bear that lumber near my home, deer for the many that graze near and sometimes run past parked cars, and the ever-present squirrels. The maple and oak leaves stand for two of our indigenous trees, the tree represents my beloved native catalpa, whose heart shaped leaves and fragrant flowers appear each year outside my front door. Our currency included a 5-cent piece that used to bear the image of a bison — the American buffalo, and though they didn’t run in this region, its iconic head is included in this work.

You’ve seen or sewn zippers in many of crochet garments yourself which is like sewing a zipper into a sewn garment. But it still can be both difficult, complicated. Did you ever try to attach a zipper in crochet way as above. It looks much natural and is a great technique for us yarn lovers […]

Carinissimo poster con due tenere mele Felpa squalo per bimbi.. troppo simpatica Anello con casetta montagna e albero ...

För några år sedan fick jag ett par superfina och väldigt praktiska grytlappar av käraste Ingbritt. De är dubbelvirkade och jag har använt ...

This week, I gathered some scrap yarn and had some fun making crochet wind spinners. These are easily made in an afternoon and add a little bit of fun to the back yard. I was looking through random videos on YouTube and stumbled upon (as you do) a tutorial on how to make the spinners. If you'd like to see the video, I'll link it up to the end of this post. If you're a person who likes to read the instructions, I'll add here how I made mine so you can have a go at making one too... and so I can reference back to this in future. Start with a 3.5 hook and just some regular 8 ply yarn. You don't need a lot of yarn, especially for the first couple of rows. I've found it best to leave longish tails on both ends of the spinner until you decide where and how you want to hang it. In this pattern, we don't turn the work at the end of the rows. Cut and start fresh at the beginning of each row. I used the same white yarn for the first two rows, then yellow, green and finished with blue (in the spinner pictured above). Chain 75 and tie off. (At this stage, go back and tie a little knot on your starting yarn tail so that you know the starting point). SC to the end of the row and tie off. Crochet 2 DC into each space of the previous row and tie off. Crochet 3 DC into each space of the previous row and tie off. SC to the end and tie off. Feed through and trim the yarn tails, except for the first and last ones. One side will be used to hang some sort of weight (eg. beads or a tassel or pom-pom etc) and the other side will be where it's hung from. Arrange (in a stack) your spinner so that it's a nice even corkscrew shape. Add your weight to the bottom tail - this is where I added a tassel as I didn't have any large beads. Now hang up your new wind spinner somewhere in the garden and enjoy. Here's the link to the video that I watched to make the first spinner.

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