M, 1848c, British; Cambric, embroidered. Fragment
Color: Dark Grey Melange Lightweight traditional suiting fabric Fitted waistcoat Button front closure Welt front pockets Adjustable buckle back Lined 65% Lyocell 25% Rayon 10% Wool Dry Clean By The Frankie Shop. Imported
In case you come here often, you may have noticed that I spend a lot of time in front of my computer tinkering with the site, adding little buttons and experimenting with HTML, CSS and the stiff Blogger template. As with all newfound knowledge, there is a lot of trial and error going on here. Go, click about, and report any problems with links not working and such. I also take suggestions. Fortunately, my sewing chops are better and I cut a muslin of this housecoat pattern earlier this week. Now, I can hear you ask 'why would I make a muslin of this? It's a checked fleece housecoat, nobody but the mailman will ever see it, so what if the darts are a little high!' But can't you see what I see? Wouldn't B length with the A sleeves make a beautiful, red, warm, winter coat? I need to figure out the ease needed to fit interlining for warmth, how much tailoring I'll be doing, how much longer the ties will be and decide if I am going to keep the gathers at the waist, pleat or do a simple A line. Now that you're seeing what I'm thinking, I'll take suggestions too.
Butterick 6223; ca. 1952; Button-Front Blouse: Sleeves Cut-In-One. (View A) A casual blouse with small rising collar and three-quarter kimono sleeves. (View B) Crop the sleeves short. (View C) Scoop the neckline for an evening look; tuck the blouse into the seasons new skirts. “Quick & Easy" View C made up That's Sew Vintage [insert your photos of this pattern made up] [insert your username, and make sure your preferences allow for people to contact you via e-mail. Do not list your email address
Are you ready to rock out some tailoring, Sew-Alongers? It's time for the exciting stuff! While working on this sample, I remembered just how much I love tailoring by hand. The handstitching can be relaxing and it's fun to pretend you're a bespoke tailor on Saville Row or something. Are you new to tailoring? Welcome! To understand the basic concept, all you really need to know is this: tailoring is the process of applying interfacing, hand stitches, and careful pressing to make your garment retain a certain shape. As you know, fabric doesn't form the beautiful soft folds of a lapel on its own. We're going to coax our fabric into those shapes with a little hair canvas, pad-stitching, twill tape, and basting. Make sense? If it seems like a magical alchemical process, that's because it kind of is. You'll be amazed to see a beautifully rolled lapel form under your fingers as you pad-stitch it! Today, I want to show you the anatomy of your coat front and how to apply the hair canvas to your side panel. But first, I absolutely must thank my teacher Sharon who has taught me a ton and also helped me figure out how to present all this. There are various levels of tailoring, and different methods for all of them. So what Sharon proposed for our sew-along was a sequence of "light" tailoring done by hand. It's not complicated, but it will make a HUGE difference in the way your coat looks and feels. Now, on to the anatomy lesson! Here are the key parts of your coat front. First, the lapel, indicated with a purple arrow here. This area is interfaced with hair canvas and pad-stitched by hand (we'll get to that later this week). As you can perhaps see, I've only just started my pad-stitching. Right below the lapel is the roll line, indicated below with green arrows. This is where your coat folds open into your lapel. Remember when we marked our roll lines? In the tailoring process, twill tape is applied to the roll line, which will help the lapel keep its lovely shape instead of flopping around like a fish out of water. Remember your handcrafted bound buttonholes? A little window is cut in the hair canvas to allow the button to pass through. All that's left is the coat side and the portion of the coat front underneath the roll line. These are marked with the red arrows below. These areas are interfaced with hair canvas, which is basted to the fashion fabric with a permanent uneven basting stitch, which I'm going to go over today. This may seem like a lot to swallow, but have no fear! Today I'm just going to go over the first step: basting hair canvas to your side piece. Let's begin! So cut out pattern piece B (side front) in your hair canvas, following the grainlines. (Note: it's advised that you pre-shrink your hair canvas by spritzing it with water and steam-ironing it. I tried this with mine, and it didn't shrink at all so I'm being bold and not pre-shrinking. But best to take the precaution.) Cut off the hem allowance on your hair canvas; the pattern calls for 2" and that's what I'm doing. This is so the canvas won't be doubled-up in the hem. Now place the canvas on top of your fabric piece and pin in place. Next, draw in your basting lines on the canvas. These are straight lines 2" apart from each other. You don't need to go into the seam allowances with your basting. Mine are the pink chalk lines below. Baste along these lines with an uneven permanent basting stitch (see the video below for instructions). Only grab a thread or two of your outer fabric (you can grab a little more if your fabric is very textured and won't show stitching); you don't want the basting to show on the outside. Here's a video to help you with your stitching! That's all for today, Sew-Alongers. Tomorrow I'll show you sewing the two front pieces together, catch-stitching your seam allowances to the canvas, and applying the canvas to your front piece. Questions and suggestions welcome, as always! P.S. One thing I should mention is that I've decided against the pattern's method of pressing the princess seams to the side and top-stitching them. My fabric is a bit bulky for that and the top-stitching won't show on the textured tweed anyhow. As you'll see in the next installment, I'm pressing my seams open and catch-stitching them to the hair canvas. Think about whether or not you'll want to do the same!
M, 1848c, British; Cambric, embroidered. Fragment
Simplicity 3671; ©1951; Misses’ Cape and Stole: Front ends of stole, Style 1 extend below waistline and have patch pockets at lower edges. Cape, Style 2, is completely faced with contrasting fabric and has a pointed collar. Lower edges of front and back sides are tacked together. Cape edge is turned back to form cuffs. Braid trimmed stole, Style 3, is pointed at back. Purchased tassels are sewn to pointed front ends. Featured in Martin Velvet '52-'53 Fall and Winter Patterns [insert your usernam
Browse pictures of interior and exterior pivot doors for inspiration to add to your own home or building.
First impressions are everything - let's face it. The façade of your home is only as good as the details you carefully choose, taking careful
Dry Creek Bed gardens are a great way to add beauty even in a very arid area. And dry creek bed garden can be used just as effectively in areas with good rainfall - you simply need to select appropriate plants. And you won't need to hire experts for these home improvement ideas.
Image 1 of 26 from gallery of Casa Mezquite / BAG arquitectura. Photograph by Oscar Hernández
Completed in 2019 in Mexico City, Mexico. Images by Onnis Luque. This house is located in a subdivision to the west of Mexico City. Its solution responds to a very strict regulation, which establishes limits of...
Ornately cabled and beautifully tailored, this cardigan inspired by Tyrolean jackets invites a full spectrum of styling choices. Medallion cables climb the fronts, sleeves, and back at a diminishing scale, eventually twining into an ornate braid that takes full advantage of Arbor’s excellent stitch definition. German short rows, transitions in background fabric, and traveling columns of ribbing create flattering lines and a precise fit. Twisted-rib button bands perfected with a picot bind-off are just one example of the delights in this pattern that await the advanced knitter. Designer: Norah Gaughan Collection: Winter 2018
Create these trendy tops using this sewing pattern with such fabrics as charmeuse, broadcloth and crepe de chine. Top A is a mock wrap pullover, fitted through the bust with the front longer than the back. Top B is loose fitting with a collar and long sleeves with pleats.
This is a digital, print-at-home sewing pattern for a ladies' two-piece middy dress. The dress is composed of a blouse made with long cuffed or short sleeves, sailor collar, and optional zipper front neck closure. The skirt has inverted pleats and center front and back and has a belt waistband. Each piece is also designed to be sewn and worn as separates! The pattern is intended for non-stretch fabrics. Rather have a paper pattern? Find that here: https://mrsdepew.com/shop/ols/products/229626246-vintage-sewing-pattern-1940s-ladies-two-piece-middy-sailor-dress-blouse-or-skirt-3156-paper-version 1940s size: 16 34" Bust 28" Waist 37" Hip. One size only at this time. Fabric requirements: See photos. Also included with this pattern is a complete set of 1940s nautical-themed embroidery and motif patterns! The pattern and fully illustrated instructions are in English. Difficulty level: Intermediate. You might also like our 1940s turban pattern. The perfect use of leftover fabric and a great accessory! www.etsy.com/listing/600675193/vintage-sewing-pattern-1940s-turban Copyright 2020 Mrs. Depew Vintage LLC. All Rights Reserved.
About the pattern This top is knitted from the top down and the texture is made up of 2 purls and 1 knit – knitted through the back loop. The neck is worked in the round, followed by the back and front piece knitted separately back and forth on the needle. The back piece and front piece come together in the round while knitting the body. The top is finished off with short rows on the back. Needles 3.00 mm circular needle /US 2.5 circular needle 3.00 DPN / US 2.5 DPN Gauge 26 rows and 34 rows on 10 x 10 cm using Stockinette stitch with 3.00 mm /US 2.5 needles Sizes XS (S) M (L) XL (2X) 3X (4X) 5X Bust cm: 76 (86) 96 (107) 117 (127) 137 (147) 152 Bust inches: 30 (34) 38 (42) 46 (50) 54 (58) 60 Yarn Lille Lerke by Dale Garn (50g=142m) 200 (200) 250 (250) 300 (300) 300 (350) 400 g Other equipment Stitch markers, tape measure, scrap yarn
Learn how to successfully fit an armhole by using a muslin. Adjust the bust, back, and shoulder—and your armhole almost takes care of itself.
Selling Points1.Gender:Men's2.Sleeve Length:Short Sleeve3.Season:SummerSpecificationsGenderMen'sStyleComfortable,FashionOccasionStreetwear,Casual,DailyTops TypeLinen ShirtNecklineCollarFabricCotton And LinenDesignFront PocketSleeve LengthShort SleeveLook After MeWet and Dry Cleaning,WashablePatternPlainSeasonSummerBust (cm)S:106;M:112;L:118;XL:124;2XL:132;3XL:140Sleeve (cm)S:24;M:25;L:25.5;XL:26;2XL:26.5;3XL:27Shoulder Width (cm)S:45;M:47;L:48;XL:50;2XL:52;3XL:54Length (cm)S:73;M:75;L:77;XL:79;2XL:81;3XL:83Listing Date02/21/2023Size ChartINCHCMSizeBustSleeveShoulder WidthLengthS41¾9½17¾28¾M449¾18½29½L46½101930¼XL48¾10¼19¾312XL5210½20½323XL5510¾21¼32¾
This Celtic Wrap is the perfect cover up for chilly days and nights. The cable pattern is intricate yet easy to knit. This versatile accessory can be worn open down the front, or wrapped around your shoulders. It will look equally beautiful worn casually with jeans or dressed up for a special occasion. I love graphing and knitting cables. I have provided instructions for the stitch patterns in both written and graph form. I think a good graph is like a piece of art. I suggest using a wool or wool blend yarn. Finished Measurements • Approximately 42” wide X 58” total length • Back Length to Neck Opening: 26” • Front Length from Neck Opening: 32” Gauge • 32 stitches X 26 rows= 4” over Cable Pattern #4 Materials • 13- 100 gm/210 yd skeins Worsted Weight Yarn Tools • 36” Circular Size 5mm / US 8 Needles, OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE • OPTIONAL Straight Size 5mm/US 8 Needles • Cable Needle • Row Counter • Stitch Markers • Tapestry needle or crochet hook for weaving in yarn ends
