"How do I stitch with variegated thread?" I have seen this question asked so many times, and it's about as broad a question as asking, "What should I eat?" Broad questions usually get broad answers like, "It depends," and that's usually the only answer that can be given without asking half a dozen more questions: What do you like? Are you eating to lose weight? Are you eating for comfort? Can you cook? Do you have food allergies? etc., etc., etc. When a stitcher asks, "How do I stitch with variegated thread?" my mind becomes bogged down with questions: What effect are you trying to achieve? What object are you stitching? What type of variegated thread are you using? Are you trying to be frugal with your thread? etc., etc., etc. I've had a post like this in my mind for some time, and I decided to finally put it together after seeing the question asked several times in about a week. This post is intended as a starting point for exploring the many ways variegated threads can be used. It's by no means exhaustive. And of course, the bottom line is that you can do whatever you want, because it's your stitching and all that matters is that you like it. Pretty much everything I say or show you will be qualified with, "It depends," because it does. (Bonus points to anyone who counts the number of times I use that word or some form of it!) Ready? Here we go: Variegated Threads 101! The first thing I want to show you is the different types of variegated threads (from now on, VT for short). These "types" are how I think of the differences in VT. Someone else may classify them differently (or not at all), but for my purposes, this is how I do it. To my way of thinking, there are three basic types: one color high-contrast (122), one color low-contrast (4045), and multi-color. The "one color high/low contrast" threads are exactly what they sound like. In this example, both threads are multiple shades of the same green, but as you can see in the photo below, the high-contrast thread has shades ranging from almost white to dark green, while the low-contrast thread has much less variance in shades. Full Stitch: From what I have seen, the most common way VT are used is by completing a full stitch before moving on to the next stitch, as opposed to stitching a row of the bottom leg of the stitch, and then coming back along the row and stitching the top leg. The conventional wisdom is that this produces a more smooth, gradual color change. In large areas of stitching, it also produces a striped effect. It also uses a lot of thread. Here is an example of what the three types of thread look like when stitched completing a full stitch: In the above photo, you can see why the type of VT makes a difference. In the top example (high-contrast), your range of color is from very pale green to very dark green, while in the middle example (low-contrast), there is much less variance, even in the same number of stitches. This matters a lot if you're stitching a large area. Something else to consider: how gradual or abrupt are the color changes in the VT? You can see in the top example that the color changes are very gradual, while in the middle example the color changes are much shorter along the length of the thread. The high-contrast VT will give you much smoother shading, but over a large area will look much more striped or color-blocked than the low-contrast VT. It depends on the effect you want, and if you want to take the trouble to cut the thread into lengths with matching shading. Half Stitch: When stitching with VT, stitching a row of half stitches and then coming back along the row to complete the stitch (as you would when using non-VT) is considered something of a no-no in certain quarters. I've never bought into this, as with everything else, it depends on the look you want. The argument against it is that it creates a "muddy" look to the stitching and doesn't show off the full range of pretty shades of color in VT. Here's an example of the half-stitch method right next to the full stitch method we just examined: As you can see, in the one color examples the difference is not quite as striking as you may have expected. Clearly this is a small sample size and the effect would be somewhat more pronounced on a larger scale, but if you want or need to be frugal with your thread, the difference might not be great enough to justify the extra thread used for the full stitch method. Another thing to consider is ease of stitching. I'm much faster stitching a half stitch in one direction and completing the stitch in the other direction than I am stitching a full stitch each time. And personally, I think the half stitch method results in a more textured look to the stitches, which I like. But--all together now!--it depends on the look you want. As for the multi-color thread, the half stitch method gives you two-color stitches and a very mottled, subtle look. You still have all the colors, but they're sort of swirled together and softened. Mismatched: This third method is one that I like to do. I'm sure it's not original to me, but I haven't seen it mentioned in the many discussions of VT I've read. The method is simply to mismatch the strands you've cut for stitching. Cut your length of thread, pull out your two strands, and then mismatch them, like this: Then stitch using the half stitch method. Here's the result, next to the two we've already looked at: I love this method for one color VT. You will still see some subtle striping or color blocking in the high-contrast example, but it pretty much eliminates that in the low-contrast example. I used this method on an evergreen tree on my Christmas ornament last year and loved the textured look it gives the stitching. In the multi-color example, you now have four-color stitches (two colors in the bottom leg, two in the top) and the result is a very soft wash of color, almost like a water color. Obviously, this technique will be more successful with some VT than it will be with others. For example, I don't think it would be very successful with a red/white/blue VT, but then again... it depends! Pattern: The final method we'll look at is what I call "pattern" stitching. You don't have to stitch in rows... you can stitch around the outside of the area and work your way in (top), you can start in the center and work your way out, you can stitch in a checkerboard pattern (middle), you can stitch on the diagonal (bottom). Here are a few examples: For the checkerboard pattern, which results in a nice random look, stitch every other stitch in rows top to bottom (or bottom to top): And then fill in the blank spots by stitching in columns left to right (or right to left): So there we have it--my version of Variegated Threads 101! Keep in mind that this post is intended only as a starting point for using VT, and as a quick reference for the next time someone asks, "How do I stitch with variegated threads?" My preferred answer is, "However you want!" but I know as stitchers we like to have a visual on what to expect for results. Hopefully this has been helpful. Remember, it's just floss and fabric... experiment! Happy Stitching!
Fox Cubs cross stitch pattern designed by Kate Meshkova. ATTENTION! Fabric and threads are not included! Cross stitch patterns are intended for personal use only and can't be distributed any way. Стоимость доставки в (Другой город) Рассчитать Подождите идёт расчёт доставки... Characteristics ThemesAnimals, Funny Scene FabricBelfast 32, Aida 14, Aida 16, Aida 18 Size140х106 st. Shades qty11 StitchesFr. knot, Backstitch, Full stitch, Half stitch Product typePDF instant download file Description Read How to Buy Cross Stitch Chart Finished size 140х106 stitches 11 shades of DMC threads are used, including blends Color-Symbol Chart in PDF format, instant download. Instruction is in English. Files: Demand (DMC).jpg (50.5 Кб) Designer: Kate Meshkova
This adorable fox is the latest addition to the animals holding hearts cross stitch pdf pattern series I am building up for my patrons Fox holding a heart cross stitch pdf pattern - Ringcat
"How do I stitch with variegated thread?" I have seen this question asked so many times, and it's about as broad a question as asking, "What should I eat?" Broad questions usually get broad answers like, "It depends," and that's usually the only answer that can be given without asking half a dozen more questions: What do you like? Are you eating to lose weight? Are you eating for comfort? Can you cook? Do you have food allergies? etc., etc., etc. When a stitcher asks, "How do I stitch with variegated thread?" my mind becomes bogged down with questions: What effect are you trying to achieve? What object are you stitching? What type of variegated thread are you using? Are you trying to be frugal with your thread? etc., etc., etc. I've had a post like this in my mind for some time, and I decided to finally put it together after seeing the question asked several times in about a week. This post is intended as a starting point for exploring the many ways variegated threads can be used. It's by no means exhaustive. And of course, the bottom line is that you can do whatever you want, because it's your stitching and all that matters is that you like it. Pretty much everything I say or show you will be qualified with, "It depends," because it does. (Bonus points to anyone who counts the number of times I use that word or some form of it!) Ready? Here we go: Variegated Threads 101! The first thing I want to show you is the different types of variegated threads (from now on, VT for short). These "types" are how I think of the differences in VT. Someone else may classify them differently (or not at all), but for my purposes, this is how I do it. To my way of thinking, there are three basic types: one color high-contrast (122), one color low-contrast (4045), and multi-color. The "one color high/low contrast" threads are exactly what they sound like. In this example, both threads are multiple shades of the same green, but as you can see in the photo below, the high-contrast thread has shades ranging from almost white to dark green, while the low-contrast thread has much less variance in shades. Full Stitch: From what I have seen, the most common way VT are used is by completing a full stitch before moving on to the next stitch, as opposed to stitching a row of the bottom leg of the stitch, and then coming back along the row and stitching the top leg. The conventional wisdom is that this produces a more smooth, gradual color change. In large areas of stitching, it also produces a striped effect. It also uses a lot of thread. Here is an example of what the three types of thread look like when stitched completing a full stitch: In the above photo, you can see why the type of VT makes a difference. In the top example (high-contrast), your range of color is from very pale green to very dark green, while in the middle example (low-contrast), there is much less variance, even in the same number of stitches. This matters a lot if you're stitching a large area. Something else to consider: how gradual or abrupt are the color changes in the VT? You can see in the top example that the color changes are very gradual, while in the middle example the color changes are much shorter along the length of the thread. The high-contrast VT will give you much smoother shading, but over a large area will look much more striped or color-blocked than the low-contrast VT. It depends on the effect you want, and if you want to take the trouble to cut the thread into lengths with matching shading. Half Stitch: When stitching with VT, stitching a row of half stitches and then coming back along the row to complete the stitch (as you would when using non-VT) is considered something of a no-no in certain quarters. I've never bought into this, as with everything else, it depends on the look you want. The argument against it is that it creates a "muddy" look to the stitching and doesn't show off the full range of pretty shades of color in VT. Here's an example of the half-stitch method right next to the full stitch method we just examined: As you can see, in the one color examples the difference is not quite as striking as you may have expected. Clearly this is a small sample size and the effect would be somewhat more pronounced on a larger scale, but if you want or need to be frugal with your thread, the difference might not be great enough to justify the extra thread used for the full stitch method. Another thing to consider is ease of stitching. I'm much faster stitching a half stitch in one direction and completing the stitch in the other direction than I am stitching a full stitch each time. And personally, I think the half stitch method results in a more textured look to the stitches, which I like. But--all together now!--it depends on the look you want. As for the multi-color thread, the half stitch method gives you two-color stitches and a very mottled, subtle look. You still have all the colors, but they're sort of swirled together and softened. Mismatched: This third method is one that I like to do. I'm sure it's not original to me, but I haven't seen it mentioned in the many discussions of VT I've read. The method is simply to mismatch the strands you've cut for stitching. Cut your length of thread, pull out your two strands, and then mismatch them, like this: Then stitch using the half stitch method. Here's the result, next to the two we've already looked at: I love this method for one color VT. You will still see some subtle striping or color blocking in the high-contrast example, but it pretty much eliminates that in the low-contrast example. I used this method on an evergreen tree on my Christmas ornament last year and loved the textured look it gives the stitching. In the multi-color example, you now have four-color stitches (two colors in the bottom leg, two in the top) and the result is a very soft wash of color, almost like a water color. Obviously, this technique will be more successful with some VT than it will be with others. For example, I don't think it would be very successful with a red/white/blue VT, but then again... it depends! Pattern: The final method we'll look at is what I call "pattern" stitching. You don't have to stitch in rows... you can stitch around the outside of the area and work your way in (top), you can start in the center and work your way out, you can stitch in a checkerboard pattern (middle), you can stitch on the diagonal (bottom). Here are a few examples: For the checkerboard pattern, which results in a nice random look, stitch every other stitch in rows top to bottom (or bottom to top): And then fill in the blank spots by stitching in columns left to right (or right to left): So there we have it--my version of Variegated Threads 101! Keep in mind that this post is intended only as a starting point for using VT, and as a quick reference for the next time someone asks, "How do I stitch with variegated threads?" My preferred answer is, "However you want!" but I know as stitchers we like to have a visual on what to expect for results. Hopefully this has been helpful. Remember, it's just floss and fabric... experiment! Happy Stitching!
Click HERE for the $1.99 large print, ad-free, pdf Pattern! Hey you! I'd like to begin this post by giving you all a little prengancy BUMPdate! For those
"How do I stitch with variegated thread?" I have seen this question asked so many times, and it's about as broad a question as asking, "What should I eat?" Broad questions usually get broad answers like, "It depends," and that's usually the only answer that can be given without asking half a dozen more questions: What do you like? Are you eating to lose weight? Are you eating for comfort? Can you cook? Do you have food allergies? etc., etc., etc. When a stitcher asks, "How do I stitch with variegated thread?" my mind becomes bogged down with questions: What effect are you trying to achieve? What object are you stitching? What type of variegated thread are you using? Are you trying to be frugal with your thread? etc., etc., etc. I've had a post like this in my mind for some time, and I decided to finally put it together after seeing the question asked several times in about a week. This post is intended as a starting point for exploring the many ways variegated threads can be used. It's by no means exhaustive. And of course, the bottom line is that you can do whatever you want, because it's your stitching and all that matters is that you like it. Pretty much everything I say or show you will be qualified with, "It depends," because it does. (Bonus points to anyone who counts the number of times I use that word or some form of it!) Ready? Here we go: Variegated Threads 101! The first thing I want to show you is the different types of variegated threads (from now on, VT for short). These "types" are how I think of the differences in VT. Someone else may classify them differently (or not at all), but for my purposes, this is how I do it. To my way of thinking, there are three basic types: one color high-contrast (122), one color low-contrast (4045), and multi-color. The "one color high/low contrast" threads are exactly what they sound like. In this example, both threads are multiple shades of the same green, but as you can see in the photo below, the high-contrast thread has shades ranging from almost white to dark green, while the low-contrast thread has much less variance in shades. Full Stitch: From what I have seen, the most common way VT are used is by completing a full stitch before moving on to the next stitch, as opposed to stitching a row of the bottom leg of the stitch, and then coming back along the row and stitching the top leg. The conventional wisdom is that this produces a more smooth, gradual color change. In large areas of stitching, it also produces a striped effect. It also uses a lot of thread. Here is an example of what the three types of thread look like when stitched completing a full stitch: In the above photo, you can see why the type of VT makes a difference. In the top example (high-contrast), your range of color is from very pale green to very dark green, while in the middle example (low-contrast), there is much less variance, even in the same number of stitches. This matters a lot if you're stitching a large area. Something else to consider: how gradual or abrupt are the color changes in the VT? You can see in the top example that the color changes are very gradual, while in the middle example the color changes are much shorter along the length of the thread. The high-contrast VT will give you much smoother shading, but over a large area will look much more striped or color-blocked than the low-contrast VT. It depends on the effect you want, and if you want to take the trouble to cut the thread into lengths with matching shading. Half Stitch: When stitching with VT, stitching a row of half stitches and then coming back along the row to complete the stitch (as you would when using non-VT) is considered something of a no-no in certain quarters. I've never bought into this, as with everything else, it depends on the look you want. The argument against it is that it creates a "muddy" look to the stitching and doesn't show off the full range of pretty shades of color in VT. Here's an example of the half-stitch method right next to the full stitch method we just examined: As you can see, in the one color examples the difference is not quite as striking as you may have expected. Clearly this is a small sample size and the effect would be somewhat more pronounced on a larger scale, but if you want or need to be frugal with your thread, the difference might not be great enough to justify the extra thread used for the full stitch method. Another thing to consider is ease of stitching. I'm much faster stitching a half stitch in one direction and completing the stitch in the other direction than I am stitching a full stitch each time. And personally, I think the half stitch method results in a more textured look to the stitches, which I like. But--all together now!--it depends on the look you want. As for the multi-color thread, the half stitch method gives you two-color stitches and a very mottled, subtle look. You still have all the colors, but they're sort of swirled together and softened. Mismatched: This third method is one that I like to do. I'm sure it's not original to me, but I haven't seen it mentioned in the many discussions of VT I've read. The method is simply to mismatch the strands you've cut for stitching. Cut your length of thread, pull out your two strands, and then mismatch them, like this: Then stitch using the half stitch method. Here's the result, next to the two we've already looked at: I love this method for one color VT. You will still see some subtle striping or color blocking in the high-contrast example, but it pretty much eliminates that in the low-contrast example. I used this method on an evergreen tree on my Christmas ornament last year and loved the textured look it gives the stitching. In the multi-color example, you now have four-color stitches (two colors in the bottom leg, two in the top) and the result is a very soft wash of color, almost like a water color. Obviously, this technique will be more successful with some VT than it will be with others. For example, I don't think it would be very successful with a red/white/blue VT, but then again... it depends! Pattern: The final method we'll look at is what I call "pattern" stitching. You don't have to stitch in rows... you can stitch around the outside of the area and work your way in (top), you can start in the center and work your way out, you can stitch in a checkerboard pattern (middle), you can stitch on the diagonal (bottom). Here are a few examples: For the checkerboard pattern, which results in a nice random look, stitch every other stitch in rows top to bottom (or bottom to top): And then fill in the blank spots by stitching in columns left to right (or right to left): So there we have it--my version of Variegated Threads 101! Keep in mind that this post is intended only as a starting point for using VT, and as a quick reference for the next time someone asks, "How do I stitch with variegated threads?" My preferred answer is, "However you want!" but I know as stitchers we like to have a visual on what to expect for results. Hopefully this has been helpful. Remember, it's just floss and fabric... experiment! Happy Stitching!
"How do I stitch with variegated thread?" I have seen this question asked so many times, and it's about as broad a question as asking, "What should I eat?" Broad questions usually get broad answers like, "It depends," and that's usually the only answer that can be given without asking half a dozen more questions: What do you like? Are you eating to lose weight? Are you eating for comfort? Can you cook? Do you have food allergies? etc., etc., etc. When a stitcher asks, "How do I stitch with variegated thread?" my mind becomes bogged down with questions: What effect are you trying to achieve? What object are you stitching? What type of variegated thread are you using? Are you trying to be frugal with your thread? etc., etc., etc. I've had a post like this in my mind for some time, and I decided to finally put it together after seeing the question asked several times in about a week. This post is intended as a starting point for exploring the many ways variegated threads can be used. It's by no means exhaustive. And of course, the bottom line is that you can do whatever you want, because it's your stitching and all that matters is that you like it. Pretty much everything I say or show you will be qualified with, "It depends," because it does. (Bonus points to anyone who counts the number of times I use that word or some form of it!) Ready? Here we go: Variegated Threads 101! The first thing I want to show you is the different types of variegated threads (from now on, VT for short). These "types" are how I think of the differences in VT. Someone else may classify them differently (or not at all), but for my purposes, this is how I do it. To my way of thinking, there are three basic types: one color high-contrast (122), one color low-contrast (4045), and multi-color. The "one color high/low contrast" threads are exactly what they sound like. In this example, both threads are multiple shades of the same green, but as you can see in the photo below, the high-contrast thread has shades ranging from almost white to dark green, while the low-contrast thread has much less variance in shades. Full Stitch: From what I have seen, the most common way VT are used is by completing a full stitch before moving on to the next stitch, as opposed to stitching a row of the bottom leg of the stitch, and then coming back along the row and stitching the top leg. The conventional wisdom is that this produces a more smooth, gradual color change. In large areas of stitching, it also produces a striped effect. It also uses a lot of thread. Here is an example of what the three types of thread look like when stitched completing a full stitch: In the above photo, you can see why the type of VT makes a difference. In the top example (high-contrast), your range of color is from very pale green to very dark green, while in the middle example (low-contrast), there is much less variance, even in the same number of stitches. This matters a lot if you're stitching a large area. Something else to consider: how gradual or abrupt are the color changes in the VT? You can see in the top example that the color changes are very gradual, while in the middle example the color changes are much shorter along the length of the thread. The high-contrast VT will give you much smoother shading, but over a large area will look much more striped or color-blocked than the low-contrast VT. It depends on the effect you want, and if you want to take the trouble to cut the thread into lengths with matching shading. Half Stitch: When stitching with VT, stitching a row of half stitches and then coming back along the row to complete the stitch (as you would when using non-VT) is considered something of a no-no in certain quarters. I've never bought into this, as with everything else, it depends on the look you want. The argument against it is that it creates a "muddy" look to the stitching and doesn't show off the full range of pretty shades of color in VT. Here's an example of the half-stitch method right next to the full stitch method we just examined: As you can see, in the one color examples the difference is not quite as striking as you may have expected. Clearly this is a small sample size and the effect would be somewhat more pronounced on a larger scale, but if you want or need to be frugal with your thread, the difference might not be great enough to justify the extra thread used for the full stitch method. Another thing to consider is ease of stitching. I'm much faster stitching a half stitch in one direction and completing the stitch in the other direction than I am stitching a full stitch each time. And personally, I think the half stitch method results in a more textured look to the stitches, which I like. But--all together now!--it depends on the look you want. As for the multi-color thread, the half stitch method gives you two-color stitches and a very mottled, subtle look. You still have all the colors, but they're sort of swirled together and softened. Mismatched: This third method is one that I like to do. I'm sure it's not original to me, but I haven't seen it mentioned in the many discussions of VT I've read. The method is simply to mismatch the strands you've cut for stitching. Cut your length of thread, pull out your two strands, and then mismatch them, like this: Then stitch using the half stitch method. Here's the result, next to the two we've already looked at: I love this method for one color VT. You will still see some subtle striping or color blocking in the high-contrast example, but it pretty much eliminates that in the low-contrast example. I used this method on an evergreen tree on my Christmas ornament last year and loved the textured look it gives the stitching. In the multi-color example, you now have four-color stitches (two colors in the bottom leg, two in the top) and the result is a very soft wash of color, almost like a water color. Obviously, this technique will be more successful with some VT than it will be with others. For example, I don't think it would be very successful with a red/white/blue VT, but then again... it depends! Pattern: The final method we'll look at is what I call "pattern" stitching. You don't have to stitch in rows... you can stitch around the outside of the area and work your way in (top), you can start in the center and work your way out, you can stitch in a checkerboard pattern (middle), you can stitch on the diagonal (bottom). Here are a few examples: For the checkerboard pattern, which results in a nice random look, stitch every other stitch in rows top to bottom (or bottom to top): And then fill in the blank spots by stitching in columns left to right (or right to left): So there we have it--my version of Variegated Threads 101! Keep in mind that this post is intended only as a starting point for using VT, and as a quick reference for the next time someone asks, "How do I stitch with variegated threads?" My preferred answer is, "However you want!" but I know as stitchers we like to have a visual on what to expect for results. Hopefully this has been helpful. Remember, it's just floss and fabric... experiment! Happy Stitching!
This little fox is 'slylish' as ever! With his beautiful Art Nouveau frame, he makes quite the impression. Indeed, he is pawsitively charming! PRACTICAL INFORMATION: This design uses 12 DMC colours and requires no backstitching. Difficulty: beginner to intermediate. Fabric used in the image: 16ct Aida by Permin of Copenhagen, 'Summer Khaki'. The pattern is 103 stitches wide x 112 stitches tall. On count 14 fabric, the design is 7-1/2 inches wide x 8 inches tall, or 18.7cm wide x 20.3cm tall. To calculate this pattern's size with any other count than 14, use an online cross stitch calculator. The pattern also contains measurements for 16 and 18 count Aida. The PDF file contains: - Front page with image of the finished pattern (stitched). - Dimensions and sizes. - Beginner tips & tricks. - Colour key with DMC threads. Note: if you purchase this item you will receive a PDF file with the pattern. You will NOT receive a fully stitched version of the pattern, nor a kit with supplies. All NeedleLot Designs cross stitch patterns are meticulously crafted by hand. Every stitch is individually placed. I devote special attention to each design, carefully selecting colors and testing each pattern for accuracy and readability. I deliberately avoid any and all automated design methods and conversions. Thank you for supporting independent artistry! Trouble finding the pattern after purchasing? Please consult: https://help.etsy.com/hc/en-us/articles/115013328108?flash_digest=e5c015cd2c4e0b7096864aaf037995a452457a8d&segment=shopping Happy stitching! \ (•◡•) /
Mini Fox Terrier 2 cross stitch pattern... This mini counted cross stitch pattern of a Fox Terrier was created from a photograph. Only full cross stitches are used in this pattern.
Fox Cubs cross stitch pattern designed by Kate Meshkova. ATTENTION! Fabric and threads are not included! Cross stitch patterns are intended for personal use only and can't be distributed any way. Стоимость доставки в (Другой город) Рассчитать Подождите идёт расчёт доставки... Characteristics ThemesAnimals, Funny Scene FabricBelfast 32, Aida 14, Aida 16, Aida 18 Size140х106 st. Shades qty11 StitchesFr. knot, Backstitch, Full stitch, Half stitch Product typePDF instant download file Description Read How to Buy Cross Stitch Chart Finished size 140х106 stitches 11 shades of DMC threads are used, including blends Color-Symbol Chart in PDF format, instant download. Instruction is in English. Files: Demand (DMC).jpg (50.5 Кб) Designer: Kate Meshkova
THIS IS ONLY A PATTERN!!! THIS IS NOT A FINISHED CROSS STITCH PROJECT!! This pattern is for instant download. I will NOT be sending anything to you. This is the downloadable pattern ONLY, there are no supplies included. You must purchase cross stitch fabric and floss separately, as well as any other supplies you may need. This pattern is for HAND stitching, NOT embroidery machines! ***There are absolutely NO refunds on downloadable patterns. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me.*** All PDF-files you can easily read using Adobe Acrobat: http://get.adobe.com/reader/ Finished size depends on the thread count of the fabric you use. The most common sizes are shown in the pictures for each pattern. This picture is also included in the download for your future reference. If you wish to use a different thread count fabric, to find out the size of fabric you need, simply divide the number of stitches across by the thread count of the fabric. Do the same with the number of stitches down. These numbers are also included on the reference picture. All pages are watermarked, as shown in the sample pattern pictures included in the shop listing. This watermark in no way impedes the reading of the graphs, as apparent in the pictures. **By submitting your order, you acknowledge that you have read the description of the item you are purchasing and have read my shop policies and agree to them.*
Black and white charts found at: http://witchwolfwebcreations.blogspot.com.au/2011/06/foxe...
Free amigurumi patterns... You can find interesting ideas, tutorials and crochet tutorials about amigurumi fox here. Lots of amigurumi free crochet patterns are waiting for you.
This construction worker cross stitch pattern is the latest addition to pixel people series I am building for my patrons. You can find the pattern here
Free Sewing Tutorial - The Little Prince's Fox - create your own fox from Antoine de Saint-Exupéry's The Little Prince - photo tutorial
CLICK HERE FOR INFORMATION ON HOW TO ORDER ANY ONE OF THESE PATTERNS Prices listed are in Canadian Dollars. If interested in using a d...
Cute Baby Fox Graphghan PatternSingle CrochetGraphghanLarge Toddler Size160 x 160 Stitch4 ColorsGraph & Full Written PatternRecommended YarnsSingle File Digital DownloadThis is a digital download of a graphghan pattern for single crochet/cross stitch/ diamond painting pattern.The pattern comes with written line by line instructions as well as a graph.The final stitch count is provided, as well as Yarn Brand and an estimated amount of it needed .The instructions are for right handed but if you're left handed you can add an extra row at the beginning of your work so row 1 in the pattern will be your row 2, row 2 in the pattern will be your row 3 etc ( or you can read the rows backwards)Size 160 stitches x 160 rows using 4 colorsThe finished size of the graphghan will vary depending on the hook size and yarn. But the size is estimated for an toddler size throw blanket with an average 4sc x 5 rows = 1 inch square gaugeThis listing is for pattern only- not a finished graphghan.Pattern Copyright ©2020 The Wooly Duck***"Copyright includes PATTERN AND THE ORIGINAL ARTWORK. Please do not sell, change, share a copy or reproduce in any way. All photos are also copyright protected and may not be used unless I give you written permission.All of my digital patterns are intended for personal , non-commercial use only'By purchasing these patterns you agree to the terms above.
"Back to school bear" is a counted cross stitch pattern. The size of the pattern is 80 x 82 stitches (15 x 15 cm for 14/28ct, 13 x 13 cm for 16/32ct), DMC 26 colors DIGITAL PATTERN INCLUDES: * Pattern with a color or black and white design template * Backstitch or no backstitch * Floss legend Please note this product is a PDF files. No fabric, floss, or other materials are included in the listing. Sorry no refunds, Items are digital which make refunds not possible. If something is wrong like an error or wrong pattern just let me know and I will do my best to fix it. For personal use only. Copying, selling or giving to any third parties is strictly prohibited. All copyrights are owned by Pakhomova Viktoriia.
X-Files / Fox Mulder / David Duchovny Counted Cross Stitch Pattern: Instant Digital Download, PDF Pattern Create this Agent Mulder cross stitch yourself using a digital download pattern. Give it as a gift or decorate your own room! This listing is for a counted cross stitch pattern only (no materials). Upon purchase, the PDF pattern will be available for you to download. PDFs includes: - Color block pattern - Black and white symbol pattern - Color symbol pattern - List of thread colors (DMC) - A quick "getting started" guide SIZING -Dimension of the pattern 105 (W) x 107 (H) stitches -Finished Dimensions of aida 18 ct aida - 5.8 x 5.9 inches 14 ct aida - 7.5 x 7.6 inches 10 ct aida - 10.5 x 10.7 inches -Suggested Round Frame Sizes 18 ct aida - 10 inches 14 ct aida - 12 inches 10 ct aida - 16 inches See my pinterest board for cross stitch basics, materials, and finishing ideas! https://www.pinterest.com/hoopdreamsstudio/ If you have any questions or comments, please message me and I'll get back to you as soon as possible. Purchased PDFs are for personal use and not for resale.
Add custom colors and embroidery to your hand or store-bought knits--and cover up colorwork or striping mistakes while you're at it--with this handy duplicate stitch tutorial!
Want more beautiful, free patterns? Sign up for our newsletter and follow us on Instagram @EweKnitTO so you never miss a pattern! Find the kit here! This pattern is featured in North 40: Baby Sweaters & Accessories Vol. 1 Designed by Claudia Q for EweKnit. Description Looking for a sweater for your special little guy? Here is a circular yoke pullover, worked from the bottom up, especially for him, but also suitable for a little girl. The pattern is written in 5 sizes, with a keyhole opening in the back neck for the baby sizes. Techniques Used Must know how to knit and purl in the round, work single increases and decreases, and be comfortable working with 2 colours at one time. Will be working stranded knitting in 2 colours from charts. Duplicate stitches are worked on the knitted fabric after the knitting. Pattern Notes A yoke sweater worked in the round from the bottom up and in one piece in 5 colours with 1x1 rib edgings in 5 sizes. Two-colour stranded knitting patterns are placed in the yoke. The baby sizes have an opening in the back, so the top of the yoke is worked back and forth to create a keyhole neckline. Buttonholes are written for both sides of the band to allow for wear by either gender. Cover the left hole with the button for a boy, and the right hole for a girl, or work only the required buttonhole. Baby sizes are marked with square brackets, children’s sizes in curly ones. Finer details of the foxes’ eyes are worked using duplicate stitches. The sleeves are worked on a smaller-sized needle to have the same gauge as the stranded knitting. Size To fit 3 – 6 mo, 9 – 12 mo, 18 – 24 mo, {Child 2, Child 4} Sample shown in size 9 – 12 mo. Materials Yarn DARUMA Genmou 100% Merino Wool 151 m / 165 yd per 50 g / 1.75 oz ball MC: 2, 2, 3 {3, 4} balls CC1, CC2, CC3, CC4: 1 ball each Colours used in Sample: 5 – Sea Glass, MC 11 – Bark, CC1 3 – Twig, CC2 2 – Almond, CC3 18 – Ginger, CC4 Needles 4.5 mm (US 7), or size to get gauge, dp and circular needles: 40, 60 and 80 cm (16, 24, and 32 inch) dp needles 1 – 2 sizes smaller for sleeves, aim for the stranded knitting st gauge 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook (optional) Notions Waste yarn to hold sts 2 flexible stitch holders (optional) Stitch markers Yarn needle Baby sizes only: 1 – 18 mm/ 3/4-inch button, matching sewing thread for button For pattern support: [email protected]
Want to make a fox scarf for one of your kids? It makes a great present! Check out the free pattern to make your own fox scarf.
This is a set of intarsia charts for a collection of colourful tropical fruits - watermelon, avocado, pineapple and an orange. Great for the kitchen, child's bedroom décor, or anyone who enjoys fun and colourful designs!These squares can be used for all sorts of wonderful projects such as part of a blanket, bunting, or unique wall art! It is also a great way to use up scraps of yarn.Knitted in stocking stitch following the chart from bottom to top, and from right to left. If knitted in DK yarn with 4mm (6 US, 8 Old UK) needles the finished squares will measure approx 20cm x 20cm.I have included some simple instructions on how to add a border, or ribbon holes if you want to use the squares for bunting.
