Wondering how to create a food forest or forest garden? Follow these steps to design your own food forest garden and reap the abundance all season.

Planting perennial vegetables lets you plant once and harvest delicious (and unusual) veggies for years to come. Find out about more than 50 plants to choose from, many cold hardy to zone 3, or even colder! #perennialvegetables #permaculture

How syntropic agroforestry and permaculture can increase yields and be the alternative growing method we have been waiting for.

Forest gardens, or food forests, are one of the best ways to grow your own food. Create a permaculture forest garden in your backyard!

Permaculture food forests are autopilot gardens that need little human intervention except in the beginning. Here's how to build one.

"Afristar Foundation utilises Permaculture design systems as the primary methodology of our community development strategy. Permaculture is an optimistic,

Permaculture gardening isn't only for big pieces of property, it can also be implemented in suburban backyards! These six easy backyard permaculture projects for beginners will get you on your way to a mini permaculture paradise!

A permaculture swale is a technique for capturing and storing water in a garden. Learn how to build a swale in the home landscape.

The less work and more productive way to garden

If you’re looking to have a food garden, why not create an edible front yard landscape? Learn how you can create an eye-pleasing design.

Permaculture Design Principles (12 Steps to a More Productive Garden). Check out our guide to the key principles of permaculture, including easy to follow tips.

A food forest can take up half a lifestyle block or be as small as an urban backyard, but the combination of fruit trees, berries, vines and vegetables – and in some cases animals – can create a resilient, self-sufficient garden that will feed you and your family all year-round. When you arrive at the Koanga Institute, hidden in a remote valley an hour’s drive south-west of Gisborne, it’s a wild-looking place. The beds where the Institute’s precious heritage seeds are grown is easily identifiable as a ‘normal’ garden with plants in neat rows, the corn standing in groups, the

Permaculture zones and the elements that are placed into them are chosen according to the amount of labor input those elements require for success.

Forest gardens, or food forests, are one of the best ways to grow your own food. Create a permaculture forest garden in your backyard!

Permaculture is a well-designed garden or landscape where you see the harmony between nature and available resources. In permaculture, we adopt different techniques and principles…

Interested in backyard permaculture design principles? Visit these 13 websites and learn permaculture basics.

Learn about permaculture polyculture gardening. Here are some polyculture examples + polyculture pros and cons. Plants for polyculture beds

The Blueberry, one of the most perfect fruits! http://www.immortalhumans.com/wp-content/uploads/Blueberry__23651_zoom.jpg Common Name: Blueberries Scientific Name: Species in the Vaccinium genus and the Cyanococcus section Family: Ericaceae (the Heather family) There are so many species and varieties of blueberries available Here is a patented variety of Southern Highbush Blueberry named Jewel. http://www.floridahillnursery.com/images/JewelBlueberry.jpg Common Species: Lowbush/Wild Blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium) Rabbiteye/Southern Black Blueberry (Vaccinium ashei or Vaccinium virgatum) Northern/Alpine Blueberry (Vaccinium boreale) Highbush Blueberry (Northern) (Vaccinium corymbosum) Highbush Blueberry (Southern) (Vaccinium darrowii) Creeping Blueberry (Vaccinium crassifolium) Velvet Leaf/Canadian Blueberry (Vaccinium myrtilloides) Kids love to help pick blueberries - a great way to get kids in Nature http://benhewittvermont.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/blueberry-kids.jpg Description: The Blueberry is one of the most well known fruit around the world. It is highly nutritious, highly flavorful, and used in a variety of ways. Primarily used for its fruit, there are blueberries that can be grown in almost any Temperate Climate around the world. A little work is needed to get their acidic soil needs met, but after that we are left with a moderately long-lived, productive plant needing very little maintenance. Blueberries are on my list of mandatory plants in the Forest Garden. Vaccinium corymbosum http://wisplants.uwsp.edu/bigphoto/VACCOR_.jpg History: Native to North America, blueberries were used my Native Americans for thousands of years before Europeans took this plant around the world. The first cultivated blueberries (Highbush Blueberries) were introduced in Europe in the 1930’s. Trivia: The Bilberry, aka “European Blueberry” (Vaccinium myrtillus) is closely related to the North American blueberry species, but it is not in the Cyanococcus section of the Vaccinium genus, so they are not true blueberries. Bilberries have red flesh unlike the white or light green flesh of true blueberries. “Huckleberry” refers to a plant that is either a true huckleberry in the Gaylussacia or Vaccinium genus like the Blue Huckleberry (G. frondosa) or Red Huckleberry (V. parvifolium). The name “Huckleberry” is often a local name given to plants, typically in the Appalacia area of Eastern North America, that are really true blueberries. "Half-High" Blueberries are a cross between Highbush and Lowbush types. They are very tolerant of cold weather, but reportedly are not too flavorful. Blueberry Tart... enough said! Here's the recipe USING THIS PLANT Primary Uses: Fresh Fruit Cooked Fruit Baked Goods, Pies, Tarts, Pancakes (!), etc. Preserves, Jams, Jellies, etc. Dried Frozen (place washed and dried fruit in a single layer on a wax-paper lined baking sheet and place into the freezer for 20-30 minutes before placing in a container – this will keep the berries from freezing together into one large chunk) Juiced Used as primary or flavoring agent in beers, wine, liquors, cordials, etc. The Creeping Blueberry (Vaccinium crassifolium) is a great, evergreen ground cover http://www.briggsnursery.com/assets/photos/Original/VAC_cWellsDelight.jpg Secondary Uses: General insect (especially bees) nectar plant Wildlife food source Hummingbird plant Ground cover plant (mainly the Lowbush Blueberry in cooler climates and the Creeping Blueberry in warmer climates) Edible Hedging Tea Plant – dried fruit and leaves Dye Plant - purple, from fruit and leaves Yield: 3-8 quarts (3.5-9 liters) or 8-15 lbs (3.5-6.8 kg) per mature plant Harvesting: Late Summer – Early Autumn (July - September). The best fruits are ones that fall from the branch with a little shake. Most blueberries in grocery stores were harvested once the fruit turned blue (and sometimes not even quite blue!). Blueberries to not "ripen" after picked, so harvest the berries when they have been blue for a few days. Storage: Fresh fruits will keep for 1, maybe 2, weeks in a cool, humid location Lowbush/Wild Blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium) is a small, cooler weather shrub http://nhfruitgrowers.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/wild-blue-1.jpg DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT USDA Hardiness Zone: Lowbush/Wild Blueberry: 2-7 (Deciduous) Rabbiteye Blueberry: 7-9 (Deciduous) Highbush Blueberry (Northern): 2-8 (Deciduous) Highbush Blueberry (Southern): 5-10 (Deciduous) Creeping Blueberry: 6-9 (Evergreen) AHS Heat Zone: Lowbush/Wild Blueberry: 8-1 Rabbiteye Blueberry: 7-9, said to “love the heat” Highbush Blueberry (Northern): 7-1 Highbush Blueberry (Southern): No reliable information available Creeping Blueberry: No reliable information available Chill Requirement: Lowbush/Wild Blueberry: 1,000-1,200 hours Rabbiteye Blueberry: 350-700 hours Highbush Blueberry (Northern): 800-1,000 hours Highbush Blueberry (Southern): 150-800 hours Creeping Blueberry: No reliable information available Blueberry bushes in Autumn... beautiful https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinsbP_at5GWfGE7tVcLxMZjaQRHfgVSDhuSnswhBgWIE_fZxQ9UxDUAiukEL4bEc6JGtn2-eUDC9wGmRqgCLZc_cqWXuPTkc57g4uxIWdfnBSbT5yYOIZGOxlyR7ZhOsu8NeJ-P3ljtg92/s1600/FallBB.jpg Plant Type: Small Shrub (including prostrate forms) to Large Shrub Leaf Type: Most are Deciduous, few are Evergreen Forest Garden Use: Shrub Layer, Groundcover/Creeper Layer Cultivars/Varieties: Wide variety of species and varieties available – there will be at least one type well suited to your location. Most blueberries available for purchase are hybrids of multiple species. Pollination: Most are Self-Fertile; however, Blueberries will produce significantly more fruit if another cultivar/variety is in the immediate area. Pollinated by bees and other insects. Flowering: Late Spring-Early Summer (May-June) Life Span: Years to Begin Bearing: 3-5 years Years to Mature Bearing: 6-8 years Years of Useful Life: Average 10-15 years, but some plants have been productive for over 50 years Blueberry flowers attract beneficial insects, like this Mason Bee http://blueberrytalk.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/may-6-2012-011.jpg PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT Size: Lowbush/Wild Blueberry: 18-24 inches (45-60 cm) tall and 2-3 feet (60-90 cm) wide Rabbiteye/Southern Black Blueberry: 6-18 feet (1.8-5.4 meters) tall and wide Highbush Blueberry (Northern): 6-12 feet (1.8-3.6 meters) tall and wide Highbush Blueberry (Southern): 3 feet (0.9 meters) tall and wide Creeping Blueberry: 3-6 inches (7.5-15 cm) tall and spread up to 6 feet (1.8 meters) wide Roots: Relatively shallow and flat. Most have a suckering or stoloniferous growth habit… sending up new plants from underground roots or putting down roots from creeping stems. Growth Rate: Slow Blueberries can be used as an edible hedge Rabbiteye Blueberry (Vaccinium ashei or Vaccinium virgatum) http://www.acuffirrigation.com/files/QuickSiteImages/Rabbiteye_Blueberries.JPG GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT Light: Prefers full sun Shade: Tolerates medium shade, but reducing sunlight also reduces yields Moisture: Dry to moist soils, depending on the species/variety pH: prefers more acidic soil (3.5-5.5) Special Considerations for Growing: The acidic soil the blueberries love can help be maintained with pine needle mulch if available Blueberries can be early-, mid-, or late-season cropping which provides a longer harvesting season Does not tolerate juglone (natural growth inhibitor produced by Black Walnut and its relatives). Consider using another plant as a buffer between your blueberries and walnuts. Propagation: From seed. Up to 90 days of cold stratification may be required. Cuttings are possible but take some skill - softwood cuttings in Summer. Division of suckers are easier and can be taken in Spring or Autumn. Maintenance: Minimal. Cut back the “twiggy” branches at planting to encourage good initial root development. Prune after 3 years or so to open up the plant; blueberries can develop into less productive, thicket-like shrubs if left un-pruned. Yearly pruning of older woody growth will encourage new growth and larger berries. Remember that berries grow on wood that is one year or older, so don’t get too carried away every year. Netting may be required to protect the harvest from the birds If the leaves start to yellow, then the plant likely needs more acid. Concerns: None.

If you’re looking to have a food garden, why not create an edible front yard landscape? Learn how you can create an eye-pleasing design.

Learn about permaculture polyculture gardening. Here are some polyculture examples + polyculture pros and cons. Plants for polyculture beds

Comfrey fertilizer is considered a powerhouse in the permaculture garden. Here are seven comfrey uses for building healthy soil and growing healthy crops.

An in-depth talk about what hugelkultur beds are and why you need them in your permaculture efforts.

group plants together for specific reasons, encourage them to spread into permanent, self-managing landscapes

Permaculture gardening isn't only for big pieces of property, it can also be implemented in suburban backyards! These six easy backyard permaculture projects for beginners will get you on your way to a mini permaculture paradise!

Learn how to establish a permaculture orchard and make a living out of it by modeling a permaculture pioneer Stefan Sobkowiak.

As you know forests are completely self-sustaining. Interestingly, no one maintains a natural forest, yet they are the most productive part of ecosystems on Earth. …

A permaculture swale is a technique for capturing and storing water in a garden. Learn how to build a swale in the home landscape.

We first heard about Food Forests several years ago and have remained inspired by them ever since. We pretty much dream of the time when we can create our own! After we returned from India, we visi…

In 2015 hebben we een van onze oudste dromen kunnen verwezenlijken door een tuin van 950 vierkante meter te kopen in Twekkelo en onze bostuin op te schalen naar een voedselbos dat op den duur in de…

Today I have 150 plants in my permaculture garden.This is not a complete list of my plants - still working on that, and of course, it is seasonal too.

B ill Mollisons is the founding father of the design system called Permaculture and a voice of sobering clarity. Bill Mollison was born in 1...

Permaculture gardening isn't only for big pieces of property, it can also be implemented in suburban backyards! These six easy backyard permaculture projects for beginners will get you on your way to a mini permaculture paradise!

This backyard food forest hosts a diverse planting of fruit trees and berries, with a mixed-species meadow understory to support pollinators and repair soil. Here's what we did.

Permaculture Design Principles and Practices Nowadays, as the world is inevitably confronted with increasing ecological problems, permaculture, through its principles and methods, becomes the light of faith for those who want to live by nature. Permaculture, the practice of which is based on the integration of biological functions with each other and also providing food and shelter, is considered a parallel approach that could be an alternative to the conventional productive and intensive methods that have come to rule modern societies. Permaculture consists of a set of deeply thought-through design fundamentals. These are the reins that hold practitioners and empower them to construct stable and self-sufficient ecosystems. These principles are not only principles, but the philosophy behind these conceptions inspires us to keep up with the nature around us, which involves our observation, interaction, and adaptation to it. When we come to grips with and act on these tenets, we discover the way to a more sustainable and meaningful way of organizing life. Permaculture is organized around twelve conditions. Observe and Interact: Permaculture targets at the beginning point to establish a very profound appreciation of the indigenous/local environment, as well as its network of interdependent systems. Through its close observation of the prevailing natural patterns, the canvas on which the permaculture designers draw looks for opportunities to harmonize with the surrounding landscape and create integrated systems that function synergistically with the landscape. Catch and Store Energy: Permaculture makes us realize that renewable or non-renewable resources have to be conserved and used properly, and it doesn't matter what types of these resources they are: sunlight, water, or organic matter. Based on this doctrine, they are going to apply such energy sources as solar, water harvesting, and composting systems to minimize waste while aiming to maximize productivity. Obtain a Yield: Although most people associate the idea of permaculture with self-reliance, it is simultaneously understood that a system has to produce on-ground results too. Through the development of systems that reliably give input, these communities would then be able to provide food, energy, or other resources, which would in turn create a thriving, self-sustaining community. Apply Self-Regulation and Accept Feedback: In applying the permaculture principle, practitioners are aware that every action bears any purpose whatsoever, not only the intended outcomes. Many times, the companies may not seem to provide solutions to customers' problems. Remote support is necessary for such issues, and it is the only way they may be able to make adjustments and adapt. Use and Value Renewable Resources and Services: Permaculture solutions provide for the implementation of renewable resources, inclusive of solar, wind, and biomass, as well as finite and non-renewable resources. The principle extends further to support the fact that all ecosystems, starting from the smallest, have countless

Permaculture gardeners look for plants that are multifunctional. These berry bushes can fix nitrogen in the soil while providing edible berries.

Interplanting and underplanting increase yield in small spaces. Interplanting involves growing smaller crops around your larger crops before

I’ve been doing quite a lot of reading about permaculture lately. What is permaculture? The word is derived from permanent agri- (and horti-) culture. Bill Mollison, one of its founding fathers, de…

A bush cherry that can grow in most places... perfect! http://i1.treklens.com/photos/9996/nanking_cherry.jpg Common Name: Nanking Cherry Other Names: Manchu Cherry, Chinese Dwarf or Bush Cherry, Downy Cherry, and many more. Scientific Name: Prunus tomentosa Family: Rosaceae (the Rose Family... includes all cherries, plums, peaches...) The small, sweet cherries have soft hairs on them. http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3210/3059035003_81b67bc4f0_z.jpg Description: Nanking Cherry is a medium to large, multi-stemmed shrub from China that produces small, shiny, red berries with a juicy, true cherry flavor – it is a true bush cherry. It can produce in almost any growing condition, tolerates some shade, is very resistant to diseases, tolerates drought, and because it is much smaller than a full cherry tree, it is easier to protect the tasty fruit from hungry birds. Prunus tomentosa - M. Smith, 1908 (Curtis's Botanical Magazine, vol 134) http://www.plantillustrations.org/ILLUSTRATIONS_HD/6919.jpg History: A native to the central hills of Asia, Nanking Cherry has been cultivated for centuries. Introduced to Britain in 1870 and to the U.S. in 1892. Trivia: Nanking Cherry fruit is usually bright red, but pink and almost white fruited plants exist. Nanking Cherries do not reproduce true to type… meaning that each fruit contains a seed that will grow into a shrub that resembles the parents, but may be shorter, taller, wider, thinner, and produce fruit that may taste better or worse or ripen to a different shade of pink to red. Lee Reich (gardening author) showing how easy it is to harvest Nanking Cherries. http://georgeweigel.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/reich.picking.nanking.cherries.jpg USING THIS PLANT Primary Uses: Fresh eating Fruit juice Dried Fruit Leather Preserves, jams, jellies, etc. Baking – pies, tarts, etc (need to be pitted first) Cooking – great for making sweet/savory sauces Alcohol – primary or as flavor addition to beers, wines, cordials, liquors, etc. Vinegar – primary or as flavor addition Pickled - unripe fruits One report of flower buds being edible after cooking Secondary Uses: General insect (especially bees) nectar plant Food source for wildlife (especially birds) in Summer Windbreak hedgerows Beautiful, fragrant flowers (pink buds and white petals) in the Spring Dark grey-green dye from fruit Some, but not many, medicinal uses have been reported Yield: 12-15 lbs per bush Harvesting: Late Summer (July-August). Fruit is about half an inch (1.2 cm) in diameter. Pick when the fruit is fully colored and juicy. Remember there is a pit (seed) in the center. Storage: Fresh fruit does not store well and is best eaten fresh – within a day. The fruit’s stem stays on the shrub leaving a hole in the top of the fruit allowing juice to leak out… which it will readily do. Can be dried after pitting. Beautiful, fragrant flowers that attract beneficial insects are just one great thing about this plant. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/jlhamann/new%20album/CherryBushSmall.jpg The pink blossoms turn to brilliant white as they mature. http://farm2.staticflickr.com/1023/4723435212_80ec21c283_z.jpg DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT USDA Hardiness Zone: 2-7 AHS Heat Zone: 7-1 (very heat and cold tolerant) Chill Requirement: Likely, but no reliable data can be found as to the specifics Plant Type: Medium to Large Shrub Leaf Type: Deciduous Forest Garden Use: Shrub Layer Cultivars/Varieties: There used to be a large number of named varieties, but many have slowly been lost over the last 100 years. Mostly non-named seedlings and a few named varieties are available. Pollination: Partially Self-Pollinating/Self-Fertile – will produce better (more and larger fruit) when planted with other varieties of Nanking Cherries Flowering: Spring (April-June). I’ve seen conflicting statements about Nanking Cherry’s susceptibility to late-spring frosts. Both sources are very reliable, so I can only assume that different plants exhibit different traits. Life Span: Years to Begin Bearing: 1-3 years Years to Maximum Bearing: 2-4 years Years Between Large Crops: 1-2 years Years of Useful Life: 15 years PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT Size: 5-10 feet (1.5-3 meters) tall and wide Roots: Fibrous tap root, medium depth, may produce suckers Growth Rate: Medium The summer leaves of the Nanking Cherry are rather non-descript... https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmgaOAmbG15Q-_xeJaf3NqwMPeACv2h4Eb_AvWpZoIO6EJEa69sbjjzmWEnam_dk5X5M_PGXTeRcJGrwHNQ9eVTSOfv7tDiScphkrZkXh57jTAbUH3jfHTO_K5jZRfrNqoT-XcrYWdpfM/s1600/NankingonBush.JPG ...but the Spring flowers and almost black branches in Winter make this an attractive plant. https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_wlGENYr4PfMwn6L8OJt04-jYyFnz1Ch4A64sMIjBycmQmyRxhPPeZLS5Fwf3F19YDCHs6K2vjqy3ZO0By8raJDk8abR_QdUqSfWrWa8SXD6sPLwbl7bnIGSuPMS2mzZXK2tFUw9atjV5/s1600/DSCN1255.JPG GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT Light: Prefers full sun Shade: Tolerates light shade, reports exist of Nanking Cherry still being productive in deep shade Moisture: Medium, but can tolerate some droughts pH: most species prefer fairly neutral soil (6.1 - 7.0) Special Considerations for Growing: Does not tolerate juglone (natural growth inhibitor produced by Black Walnut). Do not plant near Black Walnut or its relatives. Propagation: Almost exclusively from seed. Seeds require 2-3 months cold stratification for germination. Can be propagated through cuttings. Can be propagated through layering in the Spring. Maintenance: Minimal. Can prune in the center for good air flow and light penetration, but it is not needed. Some plants can develop “branch dieback” which is either a fungal or bacterial infection. Some growers will cut out diseased branches, but it will rarely kill the whole plant. If the plant seems to producing less than in years previous, a severe pruning (up to cutting back to the ground) may trigger a quick and productive rejuvenation. Concerns: Poisonous – Leaves and seeds contain a precursor to cyanide (large amounts need to be eaten for this to be toxic). Ribs with Maple Whisky and Nanking Cherry Barbecue Sauce here's the recipe: http://dinnerwithjulie.com/2011/08/16/grilled-ribs-nanking-cherry-recipe/

I feel like I could write a bit more on the subject of hazelnuts, I am working on a rather large writing project that I hope to have completed soon. In the meantime here is a little information on …

Photos of my Malabar Spinach Common Name: Malabar Spinach Scientific Name: Basella alba, Basella rubra Family: Basellaceae The tender leaves and shoots of Malabar Spinach are great fresh! Description: Malabar spinach is not actually related to spinach at all. It is a heat-loving, vining, perennial plant with heart-shaped leaves from the tropics and sub-tropics. It is often grown in more Temperate Climates as a heat-loving annual substitute for spinach. It is considered a succulent (a plant that stores water in their leaves and stems), and it is used much like spinach, although I believe the taste is not very similar when raw. Although when cooked, it does indeed taste like spinach. It is said that Malabar Spinach has a mucilaginous texture. This has a lot of negative connotations. I think a better word is "slippery". It actually has a very pleasant mouth feel to it. I would describe it as crunchy and juicy when raw. The taste is slightly peppery with a bit of a citrusy flavor with hints of earthy spinach to it. Apparently, the red stemmed version (Basella rubra) is more mild in flavor than the green (Basella alba). I have only grown and tasted Basella rubra, so I cannot speak from experience on the all green version. As I said above, once cooked, it tastes much like spinach, maybe a little stronger. History: The name, Malabar, likely refers to the northern areas of Kerala state in India. This at least is fitting, since it is thought that Malabar Spinach originated in India (although some research suggests Indonesia). It is a very popular green vegetable in India, Southeast Asia, China, and Africa. Trivia: This is a great salad green replacement when the temperatures soar in the summer and our lettuces are wilting and ready to bolt. Malabar Spinach is very high in vitamins A and C. Malabar Spinach is high in calcium and iron. Malabar Spinach using my fig tree as a trellis. USING THIS PLANT Primary Uses: Fresh - Young leaves and the top 5-8 inches of shoots can be eaten raw. Used in salads. Cooked - Older leaves should be cooked as they have a rougher texture. It is more like spinach in look and flavor when cooked. It holds its shape a lot better than spinach when it is cooked. Can be substituted for cooked spinach or chard. Secondary Uses: Thickening agent. Here is where the "mucilaginous" part of Malabar Spinach is very helpful, kind of like okra, in soups, stews, and curries. The red-purple juice from the berries can be used a a food dye and ink - it will stain! Yield: Higher with more heat and with more pinching off of shoots and flowers Harvesting: Whenever you want! Storage: Should be used immediately. Does not seem to store well for more than a few days after picked. The deep red vines and pink flowers contrast beautifully with the dark green leaves. DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT USDA Hardiness Zone: Killed by frost, although some report established plants can withstand 5 F (-14 C). Plant Type: Vine Leaf Type: Deciduous Forest Garden Use: Fast growing, heat loving annual vine in Temperate Climates. Perennial vine in Sub-Tropical, Tropical Climates, heated greenhouses, or possibly as a potted indoor plant. Cultivars/Varieties: Basella alba is all green. Basella rubra has red stems, is prettier, and is likely just a variety of Basella alba. Flowering: Mid-Summer Malabar Spinach is a fast growing vine. PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT Size: 5-6 feet in a summer, easily. Up to 12 feet in a long summer, and some report up to 30 feet if grown as a perennial. Growth Rate: Fast if there is heat. Large plant in 8-10 weeks. Older leaves are a great cooked spinach or chard substitute. GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT Light: Prefers full sun Shade: Tolerates light shade (about 50%), but grows much slower Moisture: Medium pH: Prefers fairly neutral soil (6.1 - 7.8) Special Considerations for Growing: Give it something to grow on (trellis or tree) and your yields will be higher, easier, and free from dirt. Propagation: Pretty easily grown from seed. Some will recommend soaking the seed in water overnight to improve germination rates, but I have not found that to be necessary. Seems to prefer direct seeding when temperatures remain above 60 F (15 C), but I have transplanted with success. Seeds can be saved from ripened fruit (small dark purple berries) - clean and dry the seeds. Malabar Spinach is also easily grown from cuttings as it roots easily. Maintenance: Minimal. Cut back severely to keep it in check if you live in a frost-free zone. If there are no nematodes, then this plant has almost no pests. Concerns: If you live in a frost-free area, this vine can grow like crazy. Some may call it invasive. Reportedly susceptible to nematodes. Reportedly susceptible to a fungus that destroys the leaves and can infect beets and chard as well.

Planning a fruit tree guild will yield long-term benefits to your food forest. Here's how to plan your fruit tree guild for a healthy and beautiful orchard.

A fruit tree guild is a permaculture technique for disease-resistant, high-yield gardens. Learn more about this style of growing fruit trees that thrive.

Permaculture food forests are autopilot gardens that need little human intervention except in the beginning. Here's how to build one.

Nitrogen-fixing plants are scattered throughout out food forest in Florida 9b. We use them as chop and drop to add extra nutrients to our soil.