Here in Kansas, the rapid onset of spring in the last week is forcing out the buds on flowers, trees and shrubs. Yeeeehaw! That's exciting! To celebrate, I thought I'd share a little Stitch Fun tutorial with you, to show you a simple way to embroider a pretty little floral vine speckled with t

Starting today, let's take a look at the stitching technique called “Lattice”! I have 3 lessons planned, with the first one being just the basics. Now, I don't know if you've already noticed, but the terminology area in hand embroidery can be a bit confusing at times. One book calls a stitch “A”, the other one calls it “B”, on the internet you can find articles attributing other names to it... This situation is can be applied to Lattice technique too. Some sources call it just like that: “lattice stitch” or “Lattice work”. That's the name I learned this technique as, so I'm going to be using the same term. However, you can find also stumble upon terms“Trellis work”, “Trellis”, “Laid work”, etc. Essentially, this technique is prevalent in Crewel embroidery (also known as Jacobean embroidery) so if you want to learn more about Lattice, I suppose it is better to dig deeper in that department. I personally take it easy with terminology, for now, and pay more attention to miscellaneous ways of working this stitch. And there are actually LOTS of ways! Today I will only show you the basics. The skeleton of this technique. But next time, you and me, we will explore the vast possibilities of playing with this stitch, and it's going to be a lot of fun! :) Here are some examples of Lattice work in my older projects: From left to right, these are details from Crewel heart, Fall wedding, Snowflake Mandala. The first one looks a little more complicated and fun, doesn't it? The other two are the perfect examples of basic Lattice work. Lattice embroidery lesson Everything is simple! First, you need to make a greed out of your thread. Make a row of stitches, starting with vertical ones, for example. And then lay horizontal stitches over them. Until you have a grid. Now, about this grid... I usually lay it without any thorough measuring, to be honest. Of course, if you are using nice linen, you should be able to count holes in the fabric's weaving between the stitches. It will make the grid even. I normally use cotton, though, and I'm not fond of sitting and measuring every stitch with a ruler so I do it with my eyes. Naturally, it is not perfect, haha. You can see some of the squares that the grid creates, aren't even, But I forgive it to myself :) If you want your grid to be perfect, though, I suggest using a ruler or counting holes! After our grid is ready, we start couching the threads in the place of their intersection. For the basic Lattice, it is enough to do just one diagonal couching stitch to keep the thread in place. Make sure all the diagonal stitches are worked in the same direction, though. The inconsistency in this can influence the look of the lattice quite badly. Be careful! Even with the basics of this technique you can achieve captivating results. For example, you can switch the color of couching thread to create a special effect :) Lattice over satin stitch Lattice work is an open filling by itself. It leaves the background easily visible for the eye of the audience. However, you might want to cover fabric with a particular color and then work the lattice grid over it. In this case, satin stitch or long and short stitch are your helpers. I'm using satin stitch for this example just to show the principle. But I hope you realize that lattice worked over long and short stitching with color blending, would have a bomb look! :) So, first, we work the satin stitch padding for the shape, and then lay the thread grid right on top (sorry for the Minions color scheme, I've only just noticed, haha). Then, couch the threads in the intersections. I used cross stitches here – two diagonal stitches lying on top of each other. By the way, here the order of working cross stitches matters as well. I mean, if you make the first one in a particular manner (for example, first a diagonal stitch from the right to the left, then from the left to the right), then you should continue in the same way till the end. It is actually noticeable when the stitches are different and it kind of rubs the eye when you look at the work. And that's all! It's really easy. isn't it? And it looks very pretty, even if you work it all in the same color! So we finished with the basics, but the most fun is ahead! Next time, let's try different ways of couching threads, as well as different types of grids. You'd be surprised to know how many faces this technique has. That's my favorite part, I can't wait!

Make beautiful bubble painting Hydrangea flowers! Fun DIY dish soap paint recipe. Great kids art activity & easy beginner watercolor ideas!

Today I bring you a new stitch tutorial. Along with the lesson itself, I thought it would be nice to see where it can be used, so you will also see the process of stitching this little blueberry twig :) To be honest, this stitch fascinated me from the first time I saw it in some pictures a long time ago. But when I tried to learn it, it didn't work so after a while I gave up, haha. Well, not really gave up... It's just that if something is not going right I tend to put it away until a better moment. Looks like a “better moment' came yesterday, because that's when I stumbled upon this video and finally was enlightened on what I did wrong all this time :D Turned out that I did the loops wrong! I thought that the principle of working this stitch is the same as raised buttonhole but it is actually different. So, a little tip before you dive into the tutorial – pay attention to how the loops are formed! And, although I usually give you plain lessons and tutorials of stitches that you can use later however you like... this time I was so excited that I learned this stitch that I decided to practice it one more time by working a tiny miniature with it. So now you have not just a raised cup stitch tutorial but also a blueberry twig tutorial! :) I took a lot of pictures to make this lesson as detailed and clear as possible so the post is going to be long, you were warned! Raised cup stitch tutorial So, first of all, I doodled a tiny twig on my spare “draft” fabric. Then I worked the twig and the leaves. Since it is not the focus of today's tutorial, I decided to not show it step by step. But I used satin stitch for the leaves and a loose split back stitch for the twig. I didn't want to use any textured stitches for leaves like fly stitch or cretan stitch because the berries were going to be textured already... so I kind of didn't want the leaves to steal attention :D Now the fun part starts! How to do raised cup stitch: Step 1: Outline the shape with back stitch. Make your stitches consistent in size and not too big. My shape was rather small so I used 2 strands of thread. If you want to work a bigger shape, consider increasing the number of strands to make it faster and easier for yourself. Step 2: Bring your needle back up between two back stitches. Slide the needle under one of these stitches, bring the working thread over the needle and then tuck it under the shaft. That's how you make the loop correct way. When you practice more, you will probably find out the faster way of doing it. I make these loops with two fingers now, like when you do cast-on stitch :) And then you pull the needle through. Step 3: Repeat this action over each of the back stitches in the outline. And let's call this row of loops the “first floor” of this raised cup. Step 4: Our “first floor” is finished. Now we start doing the same but over the loops below. And, depending on the shape and its size, you will need to work a few of these floors the same way until it will be time to start decreasing the number of loops so that the cup can close. And to do that, simply skip through one loop-base when making a new one, like in the picture above. Since my shapes were small, I actually started skipping every other loop already on the “second floor”. Step 5: Now, there will come a time when your cup will look like this. If you continue working new floors of loops you are likely to get a cone shape and that's not really what we want, do we? So, instead, let's finish it here. I do it like that: slide the needle under a loop on the opposite side and... ...simply insert the needle inside the cup. Just don't pull your needle too strongly to not distort the shape. And here you have it! This is what a plain raised cup looks like. We are making blueberries today so you can add extra dots with french stitches right on top of the cups. This is what the finished twig will look like! I think it's really cute. And I really like the texture... I think I've already mentioned that I'm weak for these types of stitches even though I don't really use them often in my designs. I still like them and inshaAllah will find a way to implement in some way in future works :) In the meantime, here is the Pinterest-friendly stitch tutorial that you can pin and save for later: By the way, this tutorial can be easily adjusted for other berries and fruit too, even just by changing colors. I'm sure you will get some cool ideas! Have fun and stitch away!

Clover Meadow - embroidery PDF Pattern + YouTube video tutorial. (*This is for a digital download, no items will be mailed to you) hoops size 21 сm or 8 inch embroidery size 18,5*18 cm or 7 ⁹/₃₂ * 7 ³/₃₂) expert level This listing contains 2 PDF files: in English and in Russian. In this pattern over 80 pages of instructions, which contain: ~ link to the full YouTube video tutorial (3 parts) ~ list of materials ~ color guide (used DMC floss) ~ stitch guide ~ description of all used stitches ~ images for transfer to fabric ~ many photos of a step-by-step process ~ instructions for framing the finished work into a hoop. This information will be enough for you to complete this design yourself. In case you have any difficulties with any item, please contact me. I will try to help you. Enjoy the process and great results! I would love to see your complete work, please tag me on Instagram under @amity_by. Thank you for your trust and choice of my pattern and my store! ______________________________________________________________________________________________________ Note: - to access these downloads, you must be able to open and read PDF files, - you can print these materials on a printer or track directly from your iPad or tablet. The nature of this product does not provide for refunds or exchanges to any of my PDF patterns ____________________________________________________________________________________________________ The pattern is for personal use only, copying and distribution is prohibited ©️ AmityFloralEmbroidery 2022

Clover Meadow - embroidery PDF Pattern + YouTube video tutorial. (*This is for a digital download, no items will be mailed to you) hoops size 21 сm or 8 inch embroidery size 18,5*18 cm or 7 ⁹/₃₂ * 7 ³/₃₂) expert level This listing contains 2 PDF files: in English and in Russian. In this pattern over 80 pages of instructions, which contain: ~ link to the full YouTube video tutorial (3 parts) ~ list of materials ~ color guide (used DMC floss) ~ stitch guide ~ description of all used stitches ~ images for transfer to fabric ~ many photos of a step-by-step process ~ instructions for framing the finished work into a hoop. This information will be enough for you to complete this design yourself. In case you have any difficulties with any item, please contact me. I will try to help you. Enjoy the process and great results! I would love to see your complete work, please tag me on Instagram under @amity_by. Thank you for your trust and choice of my pattern and my store! ______________________________________________________________________________________________________ Note: - to access these downloads, you must be able to open and read PDF files, - you can print these materials on a printer or track directly from your iPad or tablet. The nature of this product does not provide for refunds or exchanges to any of my PDF patterns ____________________________________________________________________________________________________ The pattern is for personal use only, copying and distribution is prohibited ©️ AmityFloralEmbroidery 2022

New month, new stitches! Today and few next days let's take a look at cretan stitch and some of its variations as well as herringbone stitch and romanian couching. I tried to group them together based on the fact that they are often used in crewel embroidery as a filling technique and also they are quite popular for working leaves and similar shapes. Cretan stitch will be quite easy to conquer if you are already familiar with fly stitch and feather stitch because the technique is very similar. So if you forgot them, it's time to refresh your memory and make few practice stitches. Where to apply cretan stitch? From what I noticed, it is a very popular way to work leaves, especially in crewel embroidery. And I actually like using it for this purpose as well! You can see my cretan leaves in this design - they turn out having satin stitch-resemblant sides and braided dimensional “spine” which I think looks lovely. The only nuance is that it probably would work better with simple shaped leaves, you know, without the ragged sides. Another way to apply cretan stitch is to work a border. Crazy quilting, anyone? Add some french knots or lazy daisy stitches on the tips of cretan stitch and it will make a pretty decorative border. You can also adjust cretan stitch's appearance by changing the place of the stitch points... well, it will be clearer after we take a look at how to actually work it. How to work cretan stitch First, we need to make a stitch from A to B. As you see, the B point is situated a bit lower than A. Next, bring the needle back to the front of the fabric through the point C, which is lower than B but closer to A. From C we make a stitch ending at point D, which is, again, a bit lower. And come up through the fabric at point E. Note that both, in this step and the previous one, when we bring the needle up through the fabric, the stitch is under the needle. I prefer the stabbing way of working cretan stitch, but you can also use a sewing method if you want. Just don't forget to keep the thread under the needle when you work it. Here's how you change the look of cretan stitch, making it more open or close. Also, the points C and E from the first two pictures can be situated closer to the edges of the border, or they can be right under each other – all of these alterations will bring forward something new in this stitch. Cretan stitch leaf As much as I'm an advocate of fine embroidery and using primarily 1 strand of floss in the needle, I believe working cretan stitch will be best if you have at least 2 strands of floss, especially when you work leaves. Otherwise, it will a) take a really long time to fill a shape b) will be not as dimensional. Also, I would like to warn, that my way of working cretan stitch is slightly different from the ones you will find in many other resources. So be aware of that and maybe check out some other places to know which method suits you better. I start my cretan stitch leaves with a lazy daisy stitch on top of the shape. After that I make a stitch to one of the edges, coming back to the front right under the lazy daisy stitch (and making sure that the needle is inside the stitch). Repeating the same actions, but now on the other side of the leaf. And the needle appears right on the line of the “spine” again. So, here's how your cretan stitch can look like. As you see, you can give it a gentle curve of the central vein instead of keeping it perfectly straight. Naturally, you can make the filling more open if you wish. Also if you don't like the open space at the tip of the leaf, just make an additional straight stitch there and don't tell anyone :) So, this is the cretan stitch. A very fun and versatile technique suitable for many purposes. If you ran out of ideas how to give your embroidery leaves a new look – cretan stitch would be a great addition to your stitch library :) By the way, here's the Stitch Library with all the stitches covered so far.

Before we start, an important announcement! I'm having a SALE in my Etsy shop: everything is down 15% until the end of March. Hurry up to make your purchase, especially if you already have my designs in the cart! Now, let's get back to the topic :) When you work long and short stitch, one of your main goals should be the correct direction of your stitches. As long as you achieve that, the surface of your stitching will be smooth, and the blending will be easier. Here are two examples. On the left is what my long and short stitch looks like nowadays, and where I'm paying attention to the direction of stitches. On the right is the result of me channeling my former confused beginner self, where I would easily put stitches in the wrong direction. To get my point across better, here are both of the examples with “guiding lines” drawn over the stitching. Take a closer look yourself, first, and try to see the difference in stitching. {ay attention to the direction of my stitches in both examples. Now, a large part of the improvement is due to practicing, of course. But even when you are a beginner and don't have big baggage of worked long and short stitching, there are still some tips for you! Tips for correct direction of stitches 1. Drawing guiding lines First of all, you can draw the guiding lines right on the ground fabric. Often times, authors of embroidery designs already provide you with directions of stitches in their diagrams. But you can also draw it yourself. I usually draw them myself with a standard pencil because it leaves me with more freedom – I can draw as many guiding lines as I need. And sometimes, the way I “feel” the shape, would be slightly different than how the author sees it so I may draw them differently. And I think that's valid too. If in your mind the “strokes” of stitches lie differently, I would recommend following your guts. It would be easier for you to work because otherwise, you would have a slight dissonance between what you see on the diagram and in your mind. 2. Guiding stitches When you gain a bit more experience, you will probably start choosing only one: either drawing guiding lines, or working guiding stitches. However, in the beginning, you might make use of both, actually. The more detailed is your “planning” of stitching, the less confused you will be about the direction of stitches. Then you start filling the space between the guiding stitches. You can make the guiding stitches for each of the rows of long and short stitching. Another way of working guiding stitches is to use running stitching as your guiding lines. It works just as well. Except, that it would be more convenient to work in 1 color, of course. And if you plan to use several colors to create a blending effect, that might be a problem. Otherwise, if you're using long and short stitch as a filler in 1 color, or if your blending is more “vertical” and you don't mind throwing some colors here and there, then there is no harm at all. 3 Pulling the working thread to find the right direction When you are confused about where you should insert the needle for your stitch to lie perfectly in line with the one from the previous row, you can pull the working end of thread and then insert the needle at the suitable point. I constantly use this method, it's like a norm. And because of that I don't always draw guiding lines on the fabric. This way of pulling thread is quite enough. However, there can be different situations. This method largely suits the situation when you need to lay your stitches along straight lines. But the shape could have some curves, it can be round or oval, and then this method would be less helpful. Nevertheless, it is still a great habit to develop and make use of! So here is the finished result of the heart with “correct” direction of stitches. How about seeing the process of working the other one? Here is me, not using any guiding lines, but just working some stitches over the outline. At first glance, it might not seem too bad. But if you look closer and try to continue the lines of the stitches in your mind, you would notice how some of them are bound to cross. Which is not very good. When you start working the second row, the problem becomes more evident. You see how the direction of stitches is changing all the time? Well, I put myself a goal to complete the shape no matter what, while still imagining myself a confused beginner stitcher, and here is the result. Take a closer look at the stitches' direction to understand the difference with another heart. I mean, it actually isn't that bad. The shape is complete and the colors are there. If you look at it from a distance you might not even notice any problem. But there is still room for improvement too. So, I hope today's tips will be helpful in your next project! Check all the previous posts under the tag “needlepainting tips” for more advice!

This romantic cropped pullover with a round yoke and blouse-like balloon sleeves features a floral colour work pattern running around the yoke and along the hem. Inspired by the invisible movements of flowers in search of light. The design comes with a rather unusual construction. The yoke is worked from a provisional cast-on bottom up in the round, whereas the body and sleeves — from the provisional cast-on top down. An alternative to knit the yoke top down, if that’s your preferred way, is also provided in the pattern. 🖤 Sizes The pattern is written for nine sizes 1 [2, 3, 4, 5] [6, 7, 8, 9] to fit 74 [84, 94, 104, 114] [124, 134, 144, 154] cm /29 [33, 37, 41, 45] [49, 53, 57, 61] in bust circumference with ca. 3–6 cm (1.25-2.25 in) of positive ease. For the finished garment measurements, refer to the graph. The sample is shown in size 2 on a 160 cm (5.25 ft) tall model with ca. 84–66–94 cm (33–26–39 in) body measurements. 🖤 Yarn Main colour: ca. 275 [300, 350, 400, 450] [550, 600, 650, 700] g of Lopi Einband held double, 100% Icelandic wool with 250 m (273 yds) in 50 g skein, shown in shade 9075 (pecan heather); with an estimated yardage of 1375 m //1499 yds [1500//1635, 1750//1908, 2000//2180, 2250//2453] [2750//2998, 3000//3270, 3250//3543, 3500//3815]. Contrasting colour: ca. 55 [65, 75, 85, 95] [115, 125, 135, 150] g Ethno Natura 500 Vivchari, 100% Ukrainian wool with 500 m (545 yds) in 200 g skein, shown in shade 213 (raspberry); with an estimated yardage of 138 m //150 yds [163//177, 188//204, 213//232, 238//259] [288//313, 313//341, 338//368, 375//409]. Or any other yarn(s) to match the gauge (sport/Dk weight). 🖤 Needles and notions A pair of 3.5 mm (US 4) and 4.0 mm (US 6) circular needles with 60–100 cm (24–40 in) cables for the yoke, body and sleeves; a pair of 3.0 mm (US 2.5) needles for the ribbing on the cuffs and maybe neck; a crochet hook to work the neckline edge and provisional cast-on (any size close to the needle sizes) and a tapestry needle to weave in the ends (optional), at least 4 stitch markers, scrap yarn for provisional cast-on. 🖤 Gauge 20 sts & 25 rows in 10 cm (4 in) measured over stockinette stitch worked in the round after blocking on 3.5 mm (US 4); 21 sts & 21 rows in 10 cm (4 in) measured over colour work worked in the round after blocking on 4 mm (US 6). Adjust the needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. · Instant PDF with written step by step instructions. · Knitting skill level: Intermediate. · Incl. US terms. · Language: English + all listed on the cover photo Patterns are a final sale, due to their digital nature they cannot be returned or refunded. © 2021 Tetiana Lutsak

Can't get the bullion knot right? Read this post to know which needle you need to use, an alternative (and easier) way to work bullion knot and the possible mistakes you might be making.

The Tulip quilting motif is a feminine, floral design that works with any size quilt block. Pattern Type: Block Pattern Style: Geometric, Floral Suggested Stitch Height: 10" and up Formats Included: BQM CQP DXF HQF HQV IQP PAT PLT QLI SSD

Years ago, I wrote a series of articles on hand embroidered writing. The articles take you step-by-step through different embroidery stitches that work well for embroidered writing. Today, we’re going to add a stitch to that list – particularly, a stitch known today as the “Quaker Stitch” because it was formulated to work as the ...

Let's learn a bit of needle lacing :) The art of needle lacing is one of the most fascinating for me. These intricate patterns created (usually) with fine thread look so fragile but elegant at the same time. The respect I harbor for the masters of this craft is humongous! You have to have really great patience and perseverance to design and produce the masterpieces that they do. As for me, unfortunately, I haven't plunged deeply into this art yet. I've practiced only the two versions and still struggling big time with one of it (you will see in the pictures below, haha). Related posts: Detached buttonholebasics Detached buttonhole onirregular shapes However, I felt the need to share these quick tutorials even if they are not perfect so that those of you who discover a special interest in this craft, could practice it and, I'm sure, get much better than me! Knotted detached buttonhole This is the one that I struggle with! It isn't that complicated in the steps you have to take to work it. The most complicated for me, personally, is to keep the tension of thread and the loops consistent: you can adjust the knot to go a bit higher or lower according to your preference, which affects the sizes of the loops making them smaller or bigger, and, accordingly, changes the size and the shape of the arc between the loops. Well, let me show you my attempts first :) The first step is identical to the basic detached buttonhole: you slide the needle under the outline of your shape in the vertically downward direction, and tuck the working end of the thread under the tip of the needle. As you pull the thread, the loop will start forming. At that moment, slide the needle behind the loop and over the working end of the thread. Start gently pulling the thread and see how the knot is forming. At this point, you can usually adjust where the knot will be paced – a bit higher or lower. It will decide on the size of the loop and how deep or shallow the arc between the loops will be. Your knot should look like this. When it comes to the second row, you can repeat the steps the same way just mirror the direction from which you slide the needle behind the needle. Or, you can start the second row from the same direction as the first one (from left to right in my case). It will affect the appearance of the lace (the direction in which the loops are “looking” will be the same), but it kind of eats thread and also I don't like thread stretches that can't be anchored or grounded anywhere, so that's why I'm reluctant to that, even though appearance-wise it will probably look neater... well... Anyway, that's my version of knotted detached buttonhole. Let me emphasize the fact that it is “my version” because it looks awkward due to my struggles, however if you put more practice into it, it will definitely look much much prettier! I actually really like the potential of this lace, so hopefully, I will be able to conquer it at some point! Double looped detached buttonhole This one is much easier and looks really pretty! Basically, all you need to do is work the basic detached buttonhole BUT with a special way of placing the loops. You place 2 loops beside each other (if you're using back stitch or chain stitch for the outline, then place 2 loops under one stitch. Then skip some space, and then place the 2 loops close to one another again. Look how pretty! And it is quick enough for you to not start feeling frustrated by a tedious process. (I do feel that way with the previous variation). Now, I brought to you 2 variations, but the world of needle lace is much much richer and there is an abundance of techniques many of which use detached buttonhole stitch. There is a vintage embroidery encyclopedia by Thérèse De Dillmont with free access to read it online. You can find it in this list here under the number 18. If you don't like reading it from the Archive, you can go to this site where the book is typed in with all the pictures. This chapter on the art of needle lace is what I would like to bring your attention to. The pictures for each technique are quite eloquent, so feel free to play with your needle and thread, and who knows, maybe you will discover a new talent or passion! :)

This week we are drawing a flat floral frame entirely in Procreate! Read on for the free color palette, brushes used and simple process!

5 Embroidery Dandelion Free Pattern Tutorial – If you’ve ever longed to create your own embroidery dandelions, then look no further! This free embroidery pattern is brought to you courtesy ... Read more

The triangle (or wedge) brush has become my favorite tool for graceful florals because they complement pointed pen work so well. In this class, we will learn how to use it to achieve graceful leaf shapes, and petal shapes. Through a series of exercises, we will explore the feel and technique used to

A watercolour by internationally renowned artist, botanical illustrator and author, Philippa Nikulinsky AM is one of the many delights of the WA Museum Boola Bardip. This work is the result of an approach by the WA Museum in 2019 to see if Philippa was interested in creating a painting of WA wildflowers, particularly from Kwongan […]

Here are some ideas on how to work quotes and monograms in hand embroidery! I don't embroider quotes and phrases that often but there are some universal tips that you can use for that *wink wink*. Handwriting style Handwriting can be elegant, sometimes quirky and at times sharp and rash. But either way, you will most probably need to work a fine line and your stitch should flexible enough to be able to bend in tight curves. So, from the family of line stitches, I would recommend stem stitch, split stitch, back stitch and chain stitch. Split back stitch will work too. Here I used back stitch with 1 strand of floss in the needle. This stitch is flexible enough to be worked in curves and swooshes and the line it creates is thin and delicate. I used cotton as the ground fabric in the picture above, it has a very tight weaving so the stitches stand out one from another quite clearly. But if you use a softer fabric like linen, it will be easier to create a smooth line and it will be more difficult to tell individual stitches apart. Also, you can whip back stitch like in the picture above. It will hide the individual stitches and make the line completely undivided. If you choose chain stitch for working the lettering, make sure to check out these tips for better chain stitch. They include recommendations on edges, corners and seamless joining of two lines :) Bold lettering Quotes and phrases in this style can be worked in satin stitch like in the picture above. I used 2 strands of floss, made an outline in back stitch and then covered with satin stitch – it created some volume. If you want to make the letters even more dimensional, try padded satin stitch. By the way, the design in this example is available as a freebie! Also, here is a monogram I worked a couple years ago in satin stitch. Here I used only 1 of floss, so it wasn't as dimensional, but thanks to that it fits nicely under glass in a frame, haha. It was a present for my Mom :) Calligraphy This writing style usually combines bold and fine parts in letters. However, working these elements separately in different ways (like back stitch for fine lines and satin stitch for bold parts) is risky and doesn't really guarantee a nice result... pulling it off would be rather challenging. There are other good alternatives though! Here stem stitch is used for both fine lines and the filling. You can work the outline of the letters in this stitch first, and then fill the bold parts with parallel lines of stem stitch. These quotes are available as PDF tutorials in my Etsy store. Another way to fill the bold part is to use long and short stitch. I don't really have an example of a letter worked like this, but the example above is quite close to how it would look like. Read the tutorial for this technique to use it correctly, and as for the finer lines, you can use stem stitch with it too. I stated the options for fine stitching with 1 strand of floss of thread. However, you can actually work calligraphy with back stitch, and this choice is quite popular nowadays. Outline the letters with back stitch in 2 and more strands of floss, and then fill the bold parts with parallel lines. Lastly, for dots in letters like i you can use french knots, and for circumflex you can use fly stitch. Hope this adds some inspiration for the next project! If you have any extra ideas, leave in the comments below! :)

How to make a paper poppy using your cutting machine or just scissors #paperflower #paperpoppy #papercraft #papercutting

Learn how to seed stitch in hand embroidery, and how to shade with seed stitching

Whether you're an experienced illustrator or a complete beginner just picking up a pencil, the world of floral drawing offers endless possibilities for self-expression and creative exploration. Grab our free pretty flower drawing templates at the end!

Oh, let’s have some Stitch Fun today, shall we?! Several years ago, I wrote an article about why it’s important to play with your embroidery stitches now and then. My views on that haven’t changed, not a jot or a tittle. Playing is necessary with any craft, hobby, or art. When you play around – ...

Learn fern stitch with this simple, step-by-step tutorial including variations and tips. Stitch along with the FREE fern pattern.

This tutorial shows how to use acrylic paints and create a watercolor effect on peonies and mason jars. Lots of tips and ideas.

This pattern is simple. you do not need advanced skill levels to make it. But you must know the basic crochet stitches and the ability to add wire to a crochet project. The PDF pattern comes with a detailed video tutorial to guide you through the crocheting process. Happy crocheting! Materials Needed: Premium Yarn: Soft, durable, and in the perfect hues to replicate the natural charm of crochet flower. Specialized Hook: Ergonomically designed for a comfortable grip, ensuring seamless crafting sessions. Iron Wire: Malleable yet sturdy, it gives the perfect structure to your crochet flowers, making them stand tall and proud. Flower Rod: for assembling your bouquet, giving it a professional, cohesive look. Hot Melt Glue: for assembling the flowers.

Hey Babes! 👖✨ Ready to amp up your jeans game? Imagine turning your plain denim into Insta-worthy fashion statements! We're talking about adding cool patches, cute quotes, or funky designs to make your jeans uniquely YOU. It's like customizing your style with every stitch – express yourself, one denim masterpiece at a time! Let's dive