A gaping neckline can be a real pain in your finished dress. So here is how you can fix it: Before you start sewing your pattern you must do this important step - MAKE A TOILE/MUSLIN FIRST of the bodice or dress to nut out any fitting problems. That way there will be no tears at the end and another outfit thrown in the corner because it doesn't fit. Ok, so you've made your Toile - now is the time to try it on and see what fitting problems you have with your pattern. The problem I see for this Toile is the gaping front neckline and also the fitting at the bust. But for this lesson I'll just address the gaping front neckline. All a gaping neckline means is that the across chest is too big for you. So the across chest needs to be taken in. Step 1 pin in the excess fabric at the neckline making sure that you continue this down to nothing. It will end up looking like a dart and it should finish around just above the bust. If it goes lower than the bust almost to the waist - then your problem is that you have chosen a size too big for you. Step 2 Now to transfer that amount of excess to your pattern. Measure down to the point where the excess fabric dart finishes. Mark that on your pattern and square a line out to finish at the seam. Step 3 Now draw a line up to the neckline - say half way between the CF and the shoulder. Measure how much needs to be taken out of the pattern and halve it. Mark that amount on the pattern to the right of the first line at the neckline and draw a line back down to the first point. Step 4 Now fold the dart in and secure with tape. This is the time now to redraw the neckline if it needs it. The same amount of excess needs to also be taken out of the front neck facing. And that's it ladies - I hope this has helped one aspect of making an outfit fit your properly. And now you are ready to make a gorgeous new outfit for yourself.
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Do you give your students sentence fixing activities to complete? You know, the ones where you provide a sentence that’s written and punctuated incorrectly, and they have to fix it? Sometimes these activities are referred to as D.O.L. (Daily Oral Language). D.O.L., sentence fixing, or whatever you want to call it is a pretty common way to teach grammar. I have done these exercises with my kiddos, and I actually remember doing lots of them as a student, too. But…bad news, friends! Sentence fixing is not an effective way to teach grammar!! Let me back up a little here. This past summer, I finished packaging my writing curriculum series for first grade and for second grade. My writing units follow a writing workshop model. Each unit focuses on a single genre, and students are often free to choose their own writing topics. I know that some other writing workshop programs really don’t advocate teaching grammar at all, because they don’t view it as an “authentic” part of writing. Which, honestly, I don’t completely agree with. I am not a grammar junkie (it’s not my favorite thing to teach), but the fact is that kids need practice with grammar skills. (By the way, when I say grammar, I am lumping together teaching kids about capitalization, punctuation, parts of speech, etc.) I am all about integrating grammar instruction into authentic writing activities. For example, if you’re teaching kids how-to writing, teach them how to include commas in a list of supplies that the reader will need. However, a minilesson here or there isn’t really enough to give kids the extended practice that they need to master a skill. So when I created my first and second grade writing units, I knew I wanted to include grammar exercises to reinforce the skills taught in the minilessons. When I wrote the grammar exercises, I included lots of sentence fixing practice. Now, I’ve gotta be honest here – the little reading specialist alarm that I have in the back of my mind was going off while I did this. I knew that sentence fixing wasn’t the very best way to teach grammar, but I wasn’t entirely sure what else to do instead to help supplement the grammar lessons in my writing series. So I included sentence fixers in my grammar activities, and I published the units. Fast forward a bit to my district’s reading specialist professional development at the beginning of the school year. One of the topics we touched on was (can you guess?) sentence fixing! The literacy director in my district (who I really respect and admire) shared this document with us. It’s all about why traditional grammar exercises (like sentence fixing) do not work, and what we should be doing instead. Here are my major takeaways from that document and what the literacy director said: – Sentence fixing is not effective for several reasons. First, we want to show our students examples of good writing, not bad writing! Second, it’s not engaging. Third, research shows that using sentence fixing activities does not result in students applying these same skills in their own writing (and that’s what really counts, right?!). – Students need to see examples of good grammar, good use of capitalization, and good punctuation, and they need opportunities to apply these skills to their own writing. We need to point out how and why published authors choose punctuation marks in the context of real texts. We need to talk to them about why published authors follow grammar rules and what effect it has on us, as readers. And we also need to give our kids opportunities to go try out grammatical structures, different punctuation, and capitalization in their own writing. Basically, kids need to see and use grammar in real contexts. Okay. So as you can imagine, I started feeling a teeeensy bit guilty about all those sentence fixers in my writing units. Our literacy director did point out, however, that doing some sentence fixing is completely fine – we just need to show kids examples of correct spelling, punctuation, and grammar before we ask them to fix incorrect usage. With that in mind, I’ve revised the grammar/language arts exercises in all of my first grade and second grade writing units. I still do have some sentence fixing in those exercises, because I know that kids do need to practice their editing skills. However, I created a format that forces kids to take note of examples of correct usage in correctly written sentences, and only then are they asked to fix an incorrectly written sentence. Here’s an example from Second Grade Unit 5: The first two sentences use possessives correctly. Circle the apostrophes. Then, fix the last sentence. That is Michael’s tennis racket. Courtney’s book is on the floor. Fix: I saw Elizabeths tablet on the table yesterday. This particular activity is timed so that the day after you teach a minilesson on possessives, this grammar exercise follows up with further practice. This is intended to honor the idea that kids need to practice grammar skills in context (i.e. during the minilesson and writing workshop time) but also provides them with follow-up reinforcement. In addition to this type of exercise, I’ve also included a variety of quick activities that are designed to be engaging and cover Common Core language skills. These exercises (like “find the pattern”) also expose students to examples of well-written sentences. There is a quick daily grammar exercise for each day in each unit, which is more than enough for the entire school year! So, if you own one of my first or second grade units (or the bundles), you will see that when you log into your Teachers Pay Teachers account and click on “My Purchases,” there is red text below the unit(s) that says “Newly Revised Re-Download.” This just means that you can redownload the unit for free and check out the changes I’ve made (and I certainly hope you will consider using the new activities with your students!). Thanks for bearing with
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Let op: deze aanbieding is voor een HAAKPATROON om de afgebeelde pop te maken en NIET VOOR EEN KLAAR ITEM Dit is geen verkleedpoppatroon. Dit patroon is beschikbaar in de ENGELSE, FRANS, NEDERLANDSE, SPAANSE, ITALIAANSE en DUITSE taal. Deze aanbieding is voor een uitgebreid PDF-bestand met volledige instructies voor het haken en afwerken van de pop DAWN. Het patroon bevat veel gedetailleerde stap-voor-stap foto's, volledige patrooninstructies en tips voor het haken, naaien en netjes afwerken. Naast tekstuele instructies zijn er ook haakdiagrammen in het patroon beschikbaar. Muts en sjaal van de pop zijn afneembaar. Alle andere kleding is vast verbonden met de pop. Dit patroon maakt gebruik van Amerikaanse haaktermen. Vaardigheidsniveau: gemiddeld tot gevorderd. Afgewerkte maat: Pop: ca. 12 1/4” of 31 cm. Wat je nodig zult hebben: M a t e r i a l s: Dat is het garen dat ik heb gebruikt: • Katoenen garen (sportgewichtgaren - 5-laags), CATANIA - Schachenmayr / BASIC COTTON - Pro Lana (100% katoen, 1,78 ounces = 137 yards/50 gram = 125 meter), 14 verschillende kleuren • Vezelvulling • 2 zwarte veiligheidsogen, Ø 6 mm • Karton of plastic voor de zolen • 2 knoppen voor de schoenen - Ø 1/2" of 14 mm • Sterk draadbestendig (tandzijde) voor de draadverbinding • Naaigaren om de pruik, de knopen, de hoedenband en de bloemen aan te naaien • optioneel: lijm N o t i o n: • Haakmaat US 1½ (2,5 mm) en US 2½ (3,0 mm) • Tapijtnaalden (gebruikelijk en extra lang) • Naald • Stekenmarkering • Schaar • Pinnen • optioneel: houten lepel/eetstokje en klemschaartje om het vullen te vergemakkelijken Copyright, Carola Herbst, CAROcreated, 2018 Alle rechten voorbehouden Alle afbeeldingen en ontwerpen, inclusief de naam en beschrijving van dit patroon, zijn het intellectuele eigendom van CAROcreated / Carola Herbst. Het patroon is alleen voor persoonlijk gebruik. Het patroon of delen ervan (inclusief foto's) mogen niet worden gereproduceerd, herverdeeld, doorverkocht, vertaald, gepubliceerd (online of gedrukt), gewijzigd, gedeeld of gepost (te koop of gratis) via internet of offline! Je bent van harte welkom om een voltooide creatie met mijn patroon te verkopen - in een beperkte serie en handgemaakt door jou. Voeg een link of verwijzing naar mijn winkel www.etsy.com/shop/CAROcreated toe, als u deze op internet vermeldt.
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One of the problems I face with many patterns is neck gape on commercial patterns. It can be on the front, on the back, or even both. Some people might ask, "Well did you choose your pattern by your high bust measurement?" Yes, I did. My high bust measurement is about 34" which is a size 12 Big 4 pattern (McCall's, Butterick, Simplicity, and Vogue). My front width measurement also corresponds to a size 12 as per Nancy Ziemen's recommendation for pattern size in her book Fitting Finesse. So why do I get neck gape? I think it's because of my narrow shoulders and hollow chest, paired with my full C-cup bust. A logical solution for many people is simply to drop down a pattern size and perform an FBA (full bust adjustment) and adjustments further down. For some reason, there is a negative association with altering the neck and shoulders, and IMO, it really is one of the easiest places to alter a pattern with many styles. It's simply the way I prefer to alter patterns for my figure, although it seems contrary to what most will recommend. Therefore, when I buy sewing patterns, even though I use the correct size for my figure, I often end up with neck gape. This is quite an annoying problem, yet such an easy and simple fix. I am going to show you two (I have three total however) methods today that I use to remove neck gape on patterns. The first is VERY simple, the second is a little more work, but targets the exact area. I don't use one exclusively, it really depends on the pattern and how much gape needs to be removed. If it is small amount and depending on the pattern style, I use the No. 1. If the amount to be removed is more than a 1/2", I use the second method. The two methods are: 1. Shifting the pattern's center front 2. Dart and Tranfer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- METHOD NO. 1: Here is a miniature sample of a pattern front with the bust apex marked as a dot. The pink construction paper is the "pseudo" fabric. The pattern's center front (CF) is placed on the fold. Let's say I have a small amount of neck gape that I want to remove, not more than a 1/2". What I'm going to do is shift the top, CF of the pattern over to the right, off the fabric fold a 1/4". Yes, I did say a 1/4". Remember, this is only half the pattern. A 1/4" will actually be a 1/2" removed from the entire front neckline. The 1/4" shifted over to the right is illustrated in the picture below. Notice the fold of fabric under the pattern is marked with a broken line. That broken line will now become the new CF. I will mark a new grainline marking and cut off the excess as shown below. This will complete Method 1, and very easy method to remove neck gape. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- METHOD NO. 2 This method is a more precise method, targeting the exact area of the neck gape when it is more than a 1/2", and transferring that excess somewhere else. That "somewhere else" in my sample below is a bust dart, although it could be rotated anywhere on the bulging block (anywhere around the bust apex). First, here is a picture of my sample pattern front: Next, I draw two lines: one from the area of the neck gape to the bust apex, and one from the side seam to the bust apex as shown below. After drawing these two lines, I cut them with a scissors *almost* to the bust apex, leaving a hinge of the pattern right at the bust apex. In the picture below, notice how I am lifting the upper piece that has been slashed on both lines. It doesn't lift up completely because of the "hinge" at the bust apex. Now I will slide the lifted piece over to the right, let's say 5/8" inch for this example. This will remove a total of 1 1/4" of neck gape. Yeah, that would be a lot. But it happens sometimes. Notice in the picture below, when I shift top of the pattern over to the right to remove the gape, a new dart forms at the bust. OR...if you have an existing bust dart, it will make your existing dart bigger. The broken line represents the amount that is removed. Next, I will true the neckline and fill in the new bust dart with tissue as shown below. That completes Method 2. Both are different methods that basically accomplish the same thing--removing that annoying gape. This method can also be used on the back bodice as well. I usually remove back neck gape and transfer it to a shoulder dart or convert it to a princess seam by transferring the neck gape excess to both a waist and shoulder dart combo. Hope this helps in your quest to remove neck gape :) !
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You know those grammar errors your students make in 4th and 5th grade and are still making in high school? Yes, those.
