If you want to sew a sleeveless dress or blouse, you'll want to know how to sew an all-in-one facing. Learn two methods in this video.
Learn how to make a muslin before sewing a garment to test for fit and construction of a sewing pattern.
Sewing Projects for Beginners Understand the basics of sewing and ready to take the leap and sew a garment? Wonderful! When you take that plunge, you open the possibilities to create a garment that fits, in the color and fabric you want. You are taking control of your own wardrobe. Her
FREE DOWNLOAD by Linda Reynolds Learn the techniques used by the top fashion design houses for applying some of the more commonly used couture finishes in garment sewing. You'll find information and how-tos on:
Patterns aren't cheap. Seriously, I was browsing through through the look books at Hobby Lobby the other day and some of them were as much as $20. Tack that on to the price of fabric and other supplies and suddenly sewing your own clothing becomes very expensive. Thankfully, you can make your own patterns using your own clothing that you know to fit well. I'll show you how to make a simple blouse pattern using a top of my own. I used Scotch Postal Wrapping Paper as my pattern paper. I found it at Target for about $5. It gives you 30 feet of paper, so it will last a long time. I used paper because I like to lay my pattern piece down and trace the shape directly onto my fabric. If you think you'd prefer to pin the pattern to your fabric and then cut it out, paper may not be the way to go for you. Muslin fabric is another great material that would allow you to pin the pattern piece to your fabric. It's also nice because it can be folded up and stored away when not in use. Lay your garment down on the paper and determine the middle of the top. Mark right above the collar and right below the hem. Draw a rough outline of one half of the top. When you get to the sleeve, do your best to fold it back so that you just see the armhole. Sketch the curve as shown below. This first pattern piece I'm working on will serve as the back of the pattern. Sketch the outline of the slightly higher, back collar. Stop once you get to the half marks that you previously made. Now you'll need to sketch an outline outside the dotted line to allow for seam allowances. To determine how far apart the rough sketch line should be from the final outline of the pattern you'll need to take what materials you're working with into consideration. For example: The lace top I am using has a stretch quality to it. If I want to use this pattern to make a top with a non-stretch fabric, I will need to make the final pattern outline a good amount wider than my rough sketch. However, if I was using a non-stretch garment to make my pattern I wouldn't have to allow for as much extra fabric. It's always better to have a too big pattern and therefore a too big top than it is to go too small. Don't be afraid to be generous. Extend the outline by about 1.5 inches along the sides and about 1 inch at the armholes and collar. Extend the bottom of the top by several inches to allow for hemming. Cut on the line and fold the pattern over making sure that the crease is on the middle marks you made previously. Trace so that you have a perfectly symmetrical pattern. Repeat the same process for the front piece of the pattern being sure to trace the front part of the collar this time. Now for the sleeves. Fold a piece of paper and position it underneath the garment and the pattern. The fold should be parallel to the top of the sleeve. Trace the curve of the front pattern piece. Leave plenty of extra room for the sleeve to be hemmed. Remember it's better to go oversized than undersized. You can always take the shirt in if it is a little too big. Cut out all of your pieces and press to get rid of creases and you're done! *Update* I recently used this pattern to make this cute little top. Click on the picture for the full tutorial!
Learn how to successfully fit an armhole by using a muslin. Adjust the bust, back, and shoulder—and your armhole almost takes care of itself.
How to Copy a Garment That Fits Perfectly Without Taking It Apart: A friend asked me if I had tried this method to copy a garment. At first I was pretty skeptical because I have copied garments by taking them apart and by scratching off a pattern from clothing that I did not take apart. Either way there are sever…
Learn how to successfully fit an armhole by using a muslin. Adjust the bust, back, and shoulder—and your armhole almost takes care of itself.
The Kaira Cropped Jacket is fully reversible with pockets on one side and coconut shell buttons on both sides for maximum versatility. The garment also features a mandarin collar, and cotton bias finishing on one side to highlight the shape and graphic lines of the seams. Made in Jaipur, India About the Textiles Used: The Kaira Cropped Jacket is made from repurposed Vintage Kantha quilts, and the original patina includes areas of fraying, patches and an age-softened feel. This one-of-a-kind piece features color-blocked patchwork and mixed floral and geometric prints. Fabric Composition: 100% Recycled Cotton Fabric Weight: Medium, soft.
Fitting a swayback. It's quite simple to get rid of the folds that are on the back of your dresses if you have a swayback. I'll show you how, step-by-step
These basic sewing skills will help you learn all the basics to start sewing your own clothes. Make the clothing you've always dreamed of!
Today I thought I would share a great way to take your garment sewing to the next level with a grosgrain waist stay. A waist stay relieves...
Children's 2-12; Misses 6-20; Men's 30-42 Smocks have been worn by rural laborers as protective overgarments for hundreds of years. The technique of hand-smocking evolved from the way many of these early garments were fitted, sized, and embellished. English Smocks were most widely worn during the late 18th century. Shepherds donned the sturdy garments while traveling unpaved roads. Butchers, bakers, fishmongers, and farmers wore smocks for work, and many had "best" smocks (usually white) as well, for Sundays, special occasions, and to make a good impression at the annual Hiring Fairs. Today, smocks are favored by artists, craftspeople, and fashionable folk everywhere. Originally a man's garment, the loose-fitting smock is sized for women as well as men. The Round Smock is sized for children as well. The Round Smock is mid-calf length and slips over the head. For children, the smock is knee-length. The Smock Frock has a button-front opening and is tunic length. Both versions may be hand-smocked on front, back, and sleeves, or easily "mock-smocked" by machine with elastic. Instructions and designs for smocking and embroidery are included inside pattern. This is the paper pattern. For the PDF version, go here. Suggested fabrics: Soft medium-weight fabrics with some drape such as cotton, rayon, wool, synthetics or blends in challis, broadcloth, corduroy, or flannel. For an authentic look, choose linen or homespun. Yardage chart (.pdf)
Threads magazine issue 197 examines some top garment fitting secrets from Kenneth D. King's new book, Smart Fitting Solutions: Foolproof Techniques to Fit Any Figure.
Learn how to remove excess ease from sleeve caps-a great tips for sewing sleeves to help achieve a better fit and a smoother look.
Your shoulders are like a clothes hanger: Every top, jacket, and dress you put on hangs from them. If you want your clothes to look better on you than on…
The founder and chief designer of Liesl + Co. Inc., describes a few fitting factors she considers when pattern drafting.
Digital (pdf) knittingpattern of the Fabel Knitwear Maud Blouse. The pdf includes the Norwegian and English version of the pattern. Maud is a romantic blouse inspired by the Edwardian bodices and gowns favored by Queen Maud of Norway. It has a high twisted rib neckline that closes at the back with buttons, and a simple and elegant lace pattern at the bust and cuffs. It is worked top down with tailored shoulder-width, in two strands Mohair Silk. INFO: Needles: 3 mm & 3.5 mm Yarn: Fabel Knitwear Mohair Silk The blouse is knit in 2 strand of Mohair silk held together. Size: (XS) S (M) L (XL) 2XL (3XL) 4XL Bust, aprox: (80) 90 (100) 108 (118) 127 (132) 142 cm Note that this design has no ease. The measurements are not for the finished garment but the size it will fit. Quantity: (150) 150 (175) (175) 200 (200 (225) 250 g Gauge: 20 st(s) = 10 cm
How to Copy a Garment That Fits Perfectly Without Taking It Apart: A friend asked me if I had tried this method to copy a garment. At first I was pretty skeptical because I have copied garments by taking them apart and by scratching off a pattern from clothing that I did not take apart. Either way there are sever…
One of the great joys but also great frustrations of garment sewing is learning how to fit your clothes. Sometimes
how to do a dartless full bust adjustment FBA for sewing patterns using knit fabrics
Let's see … where was I? Oh yes. I had just finished tucking up a good amount of length between crotch and knee on the Burda WOF pants muslin. I've now made that alteration to my pattern pieces and have cut the good fabric. As I mentioned on Sunday, I knew that my extended calves were playing a part in this fitting conundrum. As I was slicing and dicing my pattern pieces, this was confirmed. What that crotch-to-knee tuck actually did was to bring up a wider section of the pants leg to calf level. So, it's not really the length that was the culprit; it was a matter of putting the required width at the proper level. Well, in theory at the moment, because I'm still sewing the pants. Sunday night, I went to bed with some of my fitting books to re-read any info on alterations for full inner thighs and/or knock knees (FiT/KK). (Both body types display the same rear X wrinkles.) In my pile were: Fitting Finesse (Zieman) Fantastic Fit for Every Body (Grigg Hazen) Fast Fit (Betzina) Sewing Pants That Fit (Singer Reference Library) The Perfect Fit (Singer Reference Library) Pants and Skirts Fit for Your Shape (Minott) Fitting Finesse had nothing. Zero. There is some basic info for full thighs, but nothing specific for full *inner* thighs or KK (or bowed legs, which is the direct fitting opposite of KK). Fantastic Fit for Every Body was another miss. It usually is. I really don't know why I hang on to this book. I've never once used anything from it and some of the advice is just plain wrong, IMO. But I digress. Fast Fit does address the FiT/KK issue: (Click on all the photos for bigger, clear versions.) With the Fast Fit method for KK, I would still have to add width between crotch and knee because my issue is actually FiT, not KK. FiTs still need more width than what you get with this alteration alone. There is another section in this book which illustrates how to achieve that extra width by adding to the inseams, with the length of the addition dependent on how full the thighs are. After that, I would still have to re-establish a vertical grainline, because as you should be able to see, the alteration below angles the original grain outward. I know the Fast Fit method works, as it's the basis for my previous X-wrinkles alteration, here. But I'm fickle, and curious, so I wanted to try something different. ;-) An Anonymous commenter mentioned that I should buy the Singer books instead of the "expensive" Minott books because the Minott info is also in the Singer books. Well, first, I already have both Singer and Minott so acquisition/price isn't an issue. But, the main point of my response to this comment is that while the FiT/KK Singer alteration starts like Minott, the end result is different. Both methods start out by slashing the pattern at the knee and sliding the knee-to-ankle section toward the inseam, as in this section from Minott: In Sewing Pants That Fit, you are never instructed how to true the seamlines after the slash/slide (oops). In The Perfect Fit, this is the illustration and instructional text for truing the seamlines to finish the adjustment: It's an at-first-glance subtle difference between Singer and Minott, but upon further inspection the difference is really quite significant. With the Minott method, the entire leg is shifted toward the center of the body, with the overall width of the pant leg remaining virtually unchanged. This is what I want, pants that have the same cut as the original pattern but which have been adjusted to follow the shape/slant of my leg. The Singer method starts out OK, but the way you are instructed to true up the outseam gaps left after sliding the lower section toward the middle gives you pants that are still centered on the "perfect" leg exactly as before but now they're also wider. Minott trues the outseam from the bottom up. Singer trues from the top down. It makes a difference. So now I'm going to go back to the sewing room and work on finishing those pants to see if my thinking works in practice as well as theory.
A classic fit boxy hoody with contrast rib ruffles at the sleeve cuff and hem. Cuff and hem have elastic for easy in and out of the garment. Made from 100% Cotton, 19oz fleece that was milled locally. This garment is pre-shrunk and garment dyed in Los Angeles. *Garment-dyed clothing items are individually dyed after they are sewn, which can result in subtle color variations. Each garment is unique; color may differ slightly from the pictured item. Regular Length Drop shoulder Full Sleeve Locally milled 19oz Fleece Cut and sewn ethically, in-house in DTLA Fit (Measurements taken from size Small) Total Length: 22 3/4" Chest : 23 1/2" Sleeve (including ruffle) : 20 3/4" Ruffle Length: 3" Alyson is 5'4" and wearing size Small Size Guide Content & Care Self: 100% Cotton, Contrast Rib: 100% Cotton Machine wash cold. Tumble dry low.
You might want to have a fresh pair of undies ready. Just sayin’. I was conferred my PhD last week (or fortnight, or thereabouts-which, by the way, is not the reason for the above suggestion, altho…
The next important step in the sewing proccess is how you lay out pattern pieces. Find out the 4 areas of importance to avoid homemake sewing results.
How to Copy a Garment That Fits Perfectly Without Taking It Apart: A friend asked me if I had tried this method to copy a garment. At first I was pretty skeptical because I have copied garments by taking them apart and by scratching off a pattern from clothing that I did not take apart. Either way there are sever…
Embody: A Capsule Collection to Knit and Sew - empowering makers to create clothes that honor their bodies is at the core of Jacqui’s designing practice, and this shines through in her debut book. Embody consists of three infinitely adaptable patterns — two knitting, one sewing — with bespoke instructions to create customized, perfectly fitted garments designed to be the foundation of any maker’s me-made wardrobe. With included variations resulting in as many as 25 unique pieces from the three cornerstone patterns, this book encourages makers to think of a pattern as the starting point for their own creativity — a skill that will change how they approach any given pattern. Graded for chests up to 64 inches Includes digital download containing print-at-home sewing patterns AND copyshop files 102 pages, soft cover Photos courtesy of Pom Pom Publishing.
Sewing with knits can be a daunting experience for someone who is new to them, but it doesn't have to be. As someone who took the plunge as a seamstress awhile ago, I recently acquired a new appreciation for working with knits as a designer. Knowledge is key, so before my first knit pattern is released this week, I wanted to share a little bit about my experience of designing a knit pattern. There is a lot to consider when sewing with knits: types of knits, sergers vs. sewing machines, types of needles, stretch percentage, stretch recovery, cutting knit fabric, etc. I'm going to be focusing mostly on stretch percentage and recovery and will provide links to some great resources that cover the other topics. To be honest, when I've sewn with knits in the past, I never paid too much attention to stretch percentage and recovery, I just sewed with fabrics that I liked. The results were overall quite satisfying, although there were a few patterns that caused me to think "Oooo, the size is a bit off on this one.". Never before did I have the eye opening experience that I had last week when I sewed two samples of the same pattern. A very wonderful group of testers had been sewing up my Stellar's Vest pattern, and sending me their results. Through no fault of their own, the results came back ranging from perfect sizing, to very large. How was this happening, when they were using the same pattern and even the same size? I adjusted the sizes in the pattern, and had another set of testers do a second round of testing. The results were better, but still inconsistent. I figured I had better sew up a couple more samples of my own. I sewed Anja a size three Stellar's Vest in the A-line version with some adorable fabric from L'Oiseau called Deerly Beloved. (Side note - I highly recommend everything at L'Oiseau. The quality and service is absolutely impeccable.) Ok, back to my experience. The vest turned out great…the fit was perfect in the chest, armholes were good, everything about it was comfortable and cute. She wore it immediately and wouldn't take it off until bedtime. The next day, we did a little mother-daughter local fabric shopping (something that is getting more and more fun now that she enjoys selecting her own fabric!). She chose some pretty Michael Miller Blossoms 100% cotton knit. It was a great choice as I wanted something that would match nicely with Tobias' vest. I took the fabric home, pre-washed it (a must with knits), and sewed up another Stellar's Vest during nap time using exactly the SAME pattern pieces I used the day before. Nothing changed other than the fabric. Here was the result: What changed? Did my daughter mysteriously shrink from one day to the next? HA, of course, not! :) But the second garment is a full two sizes too big! This is when I realized the importance of not 'winging' the use of my knit fabric. I should've known better, I admit it. But here's the positive that comes out of this experience: I'm hoping to prevent you from making my mistake! The first fabric had a stretch percentage of over 50% and excellent recovery, while the second, around 25% with good recovery. How can you tell with your fabrics? Cut a 4"X4"(10cmX10cm) piece of fabric, fold it perpendicular with the grain line. Download and print this stretch percentage guide with tips for sewing with knits, hold the fabric firmly at zero, and stretch it as far as you can. Alternatively, you can use a ruler using the same principle. Either way, just make sure you do this. It makes a world of difference! DOWNLOAD HERE So now that you know how to determine the stretch percentage, how do you use this valuable information? Well, always read your patterns carefully and only use the fabric type and stretch percentage recommended by the designer. If the pattern does not specify, contact the designer and ask, if possible. Or, don't use your best fabric the first time around. You can size up or down depending on the result of your first garment. Stretch recovery is also very important to consider when sewing with knits. When you stretch your fabric, does it return to its original size and shape? Or is it now a little wider than it was before? You definitely want to use fabric that has a very good recovery. This recovery corresponds with the quality of the fabric, after all, who wants to wear a garment that becomes wider each time it's worn? I also prefer my knit fabrics to have some weight and/or a bit of lycra to give them that extra bit of recovery and avoid flimsy, lightweight or sheer knits. Of course, this all depends on the pattern you are using, so keep that in mind as well. In the photos below, it's clear to see which fabric has better recovery. The top one basically stayed the same width after it was stretched, while the second one returned to its original size. You can also feel a big difference between the two; the top one has a slightly, rough texture, and the bottom is soft and smooth. What I failed to do for my testers, was specify the stretch percentage and recovery needed to achieve the best results with my pattern. Incidentally, the fabrics of all my samples had a stretch percentage 50% or more and very good to excellent recovery until the final floral one. So, I think a logical explanation is that stretch percentage and recovery played a pretty major part in the varied results (especially after the first round of testing). Lesson learned! Here are some other tips I find useful to keep in mind when sewing with knits: Use a stretch or ballpoint needle. The rounded tip passes easily between the knit threads by separating them. Press often. When you sew a seam, and it looks wavy, giving it a good press will more than likely fix the problem. Do not pull or stretch the fabric as you sew. This can create those very wavy seams. There is a time and place for stretching, such as when attaching bindings. Follow the directions in your pattern carefully. Want to read more about using knits? Here are some great resources to help you have a positive experience when sewing with knits: Sewing With Knits (Kitschy Coo) Sewing With Knit Fabrics (sew mccool) Sewing With Jersey 101 (Prudent Baby) Tips for Sewing With Knit Fabrics (Oliver + S) Knits 101 (Shwin & Shwin) Working With Stretch and Knit Fabric (My Pattern Designer) Cutting Knit Fabric (Mad Mim) Ask Dana - No Fear. How to Sew with KNIT Fabrics (Made) I'm so glad to have had this experience so I can pass on what I've learned. Knits can be so fun to work with and great for children's clothing because they can be so comfortable and versatile, but it really helps to know how to use them properly. I can't stress enough how important it is to read through your patterns so you can achieve the results the designer intends for you to have. Never again will I blindly use knit fabric simply on account of the colour or pattern. It's worth the time to test out the fabric first so that you can be happier with the results. If you have any tips or tricks that help you have success with knits, please leave a comment and let us know. Thanks!
Tutorial: Adjust bust apex on a sewing pattern Even though your measurements may match those on the sewing pattern, the shape of your bust may not. And that can affect the fit of your garment. You
Learn how to successfully fit an armhole by using a muslin. Adjust the bust, back, and shoulder—and your armhole almost takes care of itself.
Before you actually get to sewing a garment, you need to transfer the pattern markings to your fabric. Properly marking the darts and sewing them as indicated can make all the difference in achieving a well-fitting garment. So what's the best way to mark darts? Here are three popular options.
Not all bodies are the same shape, so it's natural to need to do a small adjustment or two to get the bodice sitting nicely. It is easy to alter a
Designed for movement and rest. The Elysian Bodysuit is the soft layer you’ll want to reach for everyday. It is a long sleeve bodysuit with a scoop neckline, curved seaming under the chest, and two cuff options. The style lines on the Elysian make it perfect for mixing and matching colours and patterns. Whether you’re walking the dog, curled up with a book on the couch, or dancing the night away the Elysian is there for you. Skill Level : Intermediate Recommended fabric: Designed for knits with at least 50% cross grain stretch and 4 way stretch. This means that your fabric needs to be able to stretch on both the lengthwise and crosswise grain. Options include our Waterfall Viscose Jersey Knit or Organic Cotton Jersey Knit. Fabric requirements: Please see last image for details This is a multi-size paper pattern in an envelope, including sizes XS - 7X, please see image for sized details. All seam allowances are 1.6cm unless otherwise stated.Photo credits: Friday Pattern Company
"I like contouring because it’s easy and it can save you a whole load of construction trouble if you do it right. I’ve had times when I haven’t contoured and I’m left with a whole load of excess fabric that I can’t get rid of, rendering the garment unwearable and it’s annoying! This tutorial will probably make a lot more sense if you watch my more in-depth tutorial on contouring! It’s not a prerequisite, but it will help."
Create the ultimate fit! Learn the couturier secrets behind high-quality fit with tips & tricks for mastering the moulage sewing technique.
This is a SEWING PATTERN! Not a completed garment! Also please read the pattern back carefully and compare your measurements to the pattern sizing! Every pattern maker's sizing can be different! Don't 'assume' your pattern size and order the wrong item! Butterick B6285 OOP Gertie Retro Wrap Top & Flared Skirt Sewing Pattern (Two Sizes: A5 6-14 / E5 14-22) New/Uncut (now Out of Print) - Now Replaced with - Simplicity S9288 - Same Sewing Pattern / Same Size Options / New Pattern Company! Fitted, self-lined, wrap top has tie ends. Note: No provisions provided for above waist adjustment. Pleated skirt (cut on crosswise grain) has waistband, side pockets and narrow hem. A, B: For moderate stretch knits only. Two Size Options/Variations available: Size A5 - Sizes: 6 - 8 - 10 - 12 - 14 (USA Small - Large) Size E5 - Sizes: 14 - 16 - 18 - 20 - 22 (USA Large - XL) New and Uncut Original Retail Price: $19.95 & $21.95 ***************** Tired of sellers that can’t be bothered to take the time to write a proper and CORRECT item description and provide detail photographs of their items? Check my store and feel secure knowing that the item you buy from me will arrive “As Described”! · Reminder: You are buying a SEWING PATTERN – NOT a completed garment! Also does not come with fabric or ANY other notions necessary to sew this garment!!! · All sewing patterns are NEW or As-New – Uncut & unused, complete with instructions... but can (especially OOP patterns) have normal minor cosmetic imperfections to the envelope, such as store ink or pen markings, folds, wrinkles & tears or signs of age. As originally purchased from manufacturer. Stored with care in a smoke-free household. · Vintage Out-of-Print (OOP) patterns, depending upon their age and rarity, may have more moderate to significant defects or imperfections to the envelope. Including retail ink marks on envelope, tears and partial losses (like missing envelope flaps), but are complete and Uncut – unless specifically stated otherwise. ~ ~ ~ Check our other auctions and our new eBay store to see all of our other Victorian/Edwardian, Fantasy, Cosplay, Gothic and Steampunk and other Costume sewing patterns! Overseas buyers welcome! Please check our eBay Store to see all of the sewing patterns and other items available this week. We don't cross-post every item we sell also on eBay UK or Auz, but we will be happy to internationally ship any pattern that we sell! Every year, USPS raises its domestic and overseas mail shipping rates again, and significantly – My Overseas package mailing cost for a pattern to Europe just increased by about an additional $4. I’m not happy about this either, but I have discounted combined shipping for multiple purchases! Also using online postage it costs me almost as much to mail to Canada as anywhere else in the world! Reminder: it costs the same postage to ship three patterns internationally for the cost of just one! ~ ~ ~ Rules of the Road: · We’ve been buying and selling on eBay for over twenty years now but this is a hobby, we are not professionals. If there is a problem – LET US KNOW ASAP and we will try to resolve the situation to everyone’s satisfaction. · We try to take multiple detail photos of items to improve the buyer’s appraisal of the item and describe items to the best of our ability. Email us if you have any questions before you bid! o Photos and scanned images are illustrative to provide the buyer with the most detail and creative ideas possible for this pattern – in some instances, some or all pictures were not taken by me. I assume any pattern images found via Google are either ‘Fair Use’ or in the public domain. If I have used a copyrighted image in error, let me know and I'll either provide appropriate credit or remove it. · Yes, we will happily do combined shipping of multiple purchased items for significant savings - upon request. eBay should automatically calculate a combined shipping discount, but contact us if it doesn’t · In order to reduce as much as possible, the shipping costs to the buyer, our items are normally shipped out for US buyers via online eBay/USPS First Class Mail and without insurance, unless the buyer requests otherwise. International buyers can track shipment via their Customs online tracking number, but remember a delay in customs of up to a FULL MONTH is possible - and entirely and completely beyond my control! Customs fees are also the sole personal responsibility of the buyer!! · Returns cheerfully accepted within two weeks of receipt only if we have made a serious mistake with the description (pattern noted as being uncut was actually cut - or instructions were missing). Refund amount to only include the original purchase + shipping cost, not return postage. · Buyer’s remorse is not an acceptable reason to request a refund! Note: I have a screwy work schedule and sometimes have to make sudden out of town trips or work crazy hours six or seven days a week. This unfortunately means that while sometimes I can mail out your pattern within a few days, usually it will be slower - up to a week or occasionally even longer. I am also usually unable to get to our post office more than once a week My current usual mailing days are Monday & Tuesday. I also can only check store email a couple of times a week, at best. Send me a separate email via Contact Seller if you require expedited shipping!
Learn how to make a muslin before sewing a garment to test for fit and construction of a sewing pattern.
