A budget-friendly DIY slat accent wall can be created using materials that are affordable and easily available. Here are some steps to consider: Use wood scraps or plywood to create the slats. Cut the slats to size using a circular saw & rip cut Sand the edges and surfaces of the slats to
This recipe might just be the one that changes my mind and makes me intentionally pick up some cauliflower at the store.
With this collection of Sims 4 Moles, you can add some unique skin details to your sim's final look within seconds. Find moles for your sim's face & body!
Preview: Find out the best way to cut felt - easily and precisely. This will be a game-changer for you and your felt craft project will finally look stunning. How many times did you try to cut out felt and it didn’t turn out the way you wanted to? Have you ever wonder what would
Going to sleep under your average, run-of-the-mill, storebought duvet feels nothing like snuggling under an artistic quilt that you or your loved one made for you. With affection. With care in every stitch. With countless hours of skill and dedication.
Teach your students about Frida Kahlo with these easy Frida Kahlo activities. Project ideas, book recommendations, videos and more!
Suiting up for the final frontier isn't just about looks, it's about surviving and working in one of the harshest environments possible. So what exactly is a spacesuit, and what will the spacefaring fashionistas of the future be wearing?
Name: James and Deanna DunnLocation: Los Angeles, CaliforniaSize: 20 feet longType of Home: 2015 Dodge Ram PromasterYears lived in: Less than a year, owned I was pretty proud of myself for decorating my house for Halloween 2020 despite everything happening in the world right now, but Deanna and James have me (and probably many other people) beat with their quarantine project: Turning a 2015 Dodge Ram Promaster into an utterly STUNNING home-on-wheels.
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After 2 days hard work, I finally have something that I could share in here. This new CC has a little problem which looks a little odd in the game, meshes of sleeves and body will cross with each ot…
The city of Bucharest is a must-see for any visitor looking to experience the beauty and history that Romania has waiting. From grand architecture,
Zipper tabs are functional, plus add detail. Learn zipper anatomy and how to reduce a zipper by adding fabric tabs. Details you need to know when sewing.
The Holiday Slipover is a chunky slipover with deep armholes. It is worked from the top down in stockinette stitch. First the back of the yoke is worked, then the shoulders, then the front of the yoke and finally the body. A split rib edge where the back section is worked a bit longer than the front section is worked at the hem. Rib edges are worked at the neck edge and along the armholes at the end, and finished with an Italian cast-off for a neat and lovely finish. Knit a swatch before beginning the project to check if the recommended needle size gives you the correct gauge. Note that three strands of yarn are held together throughout the pattern for a chunky look (two strands of worsted weight yarn and one strand of lace weight yarn). Size guide Holiday Slipover is designed to have approx. 6 cm [2¼ inches] of positive ease, meaning it is designed to be 6 cm [2¼ inches] larger in circumference than your chest measurement. The sizes XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL are designed to fit a chest circumference of 80-85 (85-90) 90-95 (95-100) 100-110 (110-120) 120-130 (130-140) 140-50 cm [31½-33½ (33½-35½) 35½-37½ (37½-39½) 39½-43¼ (43¼-47¼) 47¼-51¼ (51¼-55) 55-59 inches]. Before beginning your project, measure yourself with a measuring tape around your bust to determine which size will fit you the best. For example, if you measure 90 cm [35½ inches] around your bust (or the widest part on your upper body) you should knit a size S. A size S sweater has a bust circumference of 96 cm [37¾ inches], which in the given example would give you 5 cm [2 inches] of positive ease. If you would like a more oversize fit, chose a size larger than you would normally do. Sizes: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL Measurements: Bust circumference: 92 (96) 102 (106) 116 (126) 136 (146) 156 cm [36¼ (37¾) 40¼ (41¾) 45¾ (49½) 53½ (57½) 61½ inches] Back width incl. rib edges: 36 (36) 37 (39) 42 (43) 44 (44) 46 cm [14¼ (14¼) 14½ (15¼) 16½ (17) 17¼ (17¼) 18 inches] Armhole depth: 27 (27) 28 (29) 30 (31) 31 (33) 34 cm [10¾ (10¾) 11 (11½) 11¾ (12¼) 12¼ (13) 13½ inches] Total length: 56 (57) 58 (59) 60 (62) 63 (63) 64 cm [22 (22½) 22¾ (23¼) 23½ (24½) 24¾ (24¾) 25¼ inches] measured mid back incl. neck rib edge Gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 inches] in stockinette stitch on 10 mm [US15] needles with two strands of worsted weight yarn and one strand of lace weight yarn held together, after wash and blocking Needles: Circular needles: 10 mm [US15] / 60, 80 or 100 cm [24, 32 or 40 inches] and 9 mm [US13] / 40 and 60 cm [16 and 24 inches] Materials: 250-300 (300) 300 (350) 350 (400) 450 (450) 500 g Snefnug by CaMaRose (50 g = 110 m [120 yds]) or Alpaca 3 by Isager (50 g = 125 m [137 yds]) or 200-250 (250) 250 (250) 300 (300-350) 350 (350-400) 400-450 g Kos by Sandnes Garn (50 g = 150 m [164 yds]) held together with 50 (50) 50 (50) 50 (50) 50 (75) 75 g Silk Mohair by Isager (25 g = 212 m [232 yds]) or Tynn Silk Mohair by Sandnes Garn (25 g = 212 m [232 yds]) or Tilia by Filcolana (25 g = 210 m [230 yds]) or Brushed Lace by Mohair By Canard (25 g = 212 m [232 yds]) or Kid Seta by Gepard Garn (25 g = 212 m [232 yds]) Difficulty: ★ ★ (2 out of 5) See the classification of difficulty here. The white Holiday Slipober is knitted in Puf by Gepard Garn in the color Råhvid [101] held together with Kid Seta by Gepard Garn in the color Råhvid [406]. The beige Holiday Slipover is knitted in Snefnug by CaMaRose in color Lysbeige [7314] held together with Silk Mohair by Isager in color 6.
Here’s how much you can earn in your state for working behind the register.
The IKEA KALLAX unit is common in many home offices. Here's how to hack the KALLAX into a built in unit for more polished appearance.
DecayClownSims
Another woeful reaction from the group over cross hatching! 'Too hard!' Well, can I just say the results are some of my favourite yet, as you'll see from this endless line-up of favourites. So many to choose from! Bettina Dodson Christina Booth Detta Tea Heidi Cooper Irving, age 6 Jennifer Bell Jess, age 12 Judy Watson Kate Bouman Nicky Johnston Ramona Davey Stephanie Owen Reeder Susan Hall Tanya Hempson Toni Griffiths
2 years ago…We tackled our first major project. Let that fester for a minute, 2 years ago… Here’s what our backyard looked like the first time we saw it ….. Huge ba…
Hi All! This week I finally got back into the swing of things, sewing-wise, and made my very first Emery Dress - finally! I've been saying I was going to do it since it was released last fall! However, I'm glad I waited until after I learned a bit more about fitting. I did have to make several changes to the bodice, although the original form was passable. But that's why we sew, right? Or at least that's one of the reasons - to have a well-fitting garment. I'm going to talk about my fitting changes in a separate post, since they may be helpful to some of you. None of the changes I made were difficult to do, and many of them were changes I've learned I need on pretty much any pattern. But there were some surprises in there. I'm also not going to show you any pictures today of me wearing the dress, as I've just gotten back from a very long walk and don't quite have the energy to take photos! Here it is on a hanger though: I'm very happy with it :-) I got several questions on Instagram about whether or not the fabric is vintage. It is in fact quilting cotton! I believe this print is no longer being produced, but it is called "Boxed Dozen" by Martha Negley. I'd been in love with it for quite a while, and when I came across it on clearance last year on Fabric.com, I immediately bought 4 yards. Instead, today I thought I'd share how I did the lining on my sleeveless dress. I did a little google search and couldn't find any tutorials (on the first couple pages) for lining a sleeveless dress to the edge - most of what I saw was bias binding for the armholes. I'm not a big fan of bias binding, looks-wise; I much prefer pieces that are lined to the edge. But I can never remember how to do it and always have to look it up! So as I was making this dress, I made sure to take pictures of each step to share with you and as a reference to myself in the future. Because I think there will be many more sleeveless Emery dresses in my future :-) Lining to the Edge on a Sleeveless Bodice 1. Cut out your outer and lining bodice pieces, front and back. Stay-stitch the necklines on all these pieces, as per the pattern instructions, and then sew and press the darts. 2. Sew the backs to the fronts on both the outer and lining pieces at the shoulder seams. Press these open, and trim the lining shoulder seams in half. 3. With right sides together, sew the lining to the outer at the neckline, starting and stopping 1.25" from the edge. I made a little mark at these positions to make it easier on myself. *EDITED TO ADD: After I made my second Emery bodice, I decided to try understitching the entire neckline at this point, after trimming and clipping the curves, but before sewing up the armholes. Worked great! I didn't do it that way the first time because I was following the directions from the lining book. 4. Starting and stopping at the armhole curves, trim 1/8" off the edge of the armhole on the lining piece only, making it slightly narrower than the outer bodice. They will look like this: 5. Pull the edge of the lining over to match up with the edge of the outer, then sew the armhole seams. 6. Grade the armhole and neckline seams, then clip the curves. However, make sure not to cut away any of the neckline seam at the 1.25" you left unsewn - you'll need it to be there when you install the zipper. 7. Now turn the lined bodice right side out, pulling the back through the shoulder to the front: 8. Once the whole bodice has been turned right side out, give everything a nice press, making sure that the lining is pulled to the inside a bit. This will be really easy to do at the armhole edges, since a bit of extra was trimmed away. It will look like this - just a scant 1/16" of outer fabric showing: Here's the whole bodice so far, pressed and ready to go on: 9. Now, pin the lining side seams and outer side seams right sides together. Sew this as one long, continuous seam: Make sure to have the armhole seam allowance folded towards the outer side, like so: Press these seams open. Now you have a bodice that is completely constructed and lined to the edge, but open at the center back for the zipper installation. 10. Assemble the skirt as per the instructions. Then attach the skirt to the outer bodice only, keeping the lining pulled up out of the way: 11. Finish the entire center back edge on both sides - I like to serge these edges. Still keeping the lining pulled out of the way, install the back zipper as per the instructions. The 1.25" opening you left at the neckline will make this easy to do. Once the zipper is in, you can finish sewing that last 1.25" of the neck seam. 12. Press up the waist edge of the lining 5/8" to prepare for attaching it to the waist. Then flip the lining piece to the outside of the bodice so that the right sides are together. Line up the center back edges and sew the lining to the zipper tape using a regular zipper foot. Note: you don't finish the center back edge of the lining, because you want to minimize bulk here. 13. Trim the corner, and also the remainder of the neckline (not shown here), then turn out the dress to the right side. Give everything a good press, then sew the waist edge of the lining to the waist seam of the dress by hand (or if you prefer, by stitching in the ditch from the right side). Now all you've got left to do is to hem the dress! You shouldn't need to do any understitching, as the trimmed armhole on the lining should keep the lining from peeking out. If you want a little insurance understitching at the neckline, you can do this before closing up the lining in step 13. You won't be able to understitch the whole neckline, but you should be able to do most of the front. Or, you could understitch later by hand if you enjoy doing that - I sometimes do. I'm very happy with the finish I got using this method, which I learned from Connie Long's Easy Guide to Sewing Linings. I hope this will be helpful to some of you too!
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Let the Dahlia Smock Dress see you through the final doom and gloom days of Summer. Designed with soft gathering at the waist to give an oversized swing silhouette; this breathable linen-blend dress is effortless to wear and features sneaky side seam pockets biggest enough for your darkest secret...
Realistic look / HD Quality Image Water Resistant Scratch Resistant Tear Resistant Tapes to the back from the outside Don't see your size? CUSTOM SIZES AVAILABLE. Just order the closest size that is larger and put in the notes at checkout the size you need. If your aquarium is larger than anything listed, please message us for a custom quote. Fast Shipping! * As we sell dozens of unique sizes and these are custom printed please choose your size carefully as all sales are final. If incorrect or defective replacements will be sent at no charge. ** For custom sizes digital proofs are available upon request. Thanks.
