It’s Perfect for Leftover Skinny Strips! String piecing is great for using up skinny strips of assorted widths, and it’s simple to do. Plus, a number of interesting designs can be created from the process. Combine four of these easy units to create blocks that form diamonds and stars. The result is a stunning quilt …

This textured crochet beanie pattern creates a warm winter hat for men or women! The diamond stitch adds a double layer of warmth.

The most popular covid face mask patterns to sew at home. The 4-sizes face mask patterns has an option to sew with pocket for filter & nose wire.

Hello there, Halloween lovers! Are you already planning this year's decorations? Let's crochet a garland! Which one do you like best?

I'm Lichen This Hat No, really. I'm really, really, REALLY lichen it. If recent years have taught me anything, it's that I am one of about six Americans who would rather eat rocks than watch a televised singing competition. Of course, I do have one odd exception to my music-free reality television preferences, the always-delightful The Sing-Off (I'm also lying when I say it's always delightful - 2014's weird Christmas special was no good. I miss Sara Bareilles). What's my point here? OH YEAH, PUNS! I think I like the show because of the constant and terrible puns that are constantly coming forth from host Nick Lachey's mouth. And, based on the name I came up with for this pattern, I also think the nice folks on TV's best a cappella singing competition program might tap me as a writer if the show ever gets another season. Speaking of this hat, I got the design idea from a strange, ruched-looking entrance way I pass by every day on my way to my kids' schools, but you're just going to have to take my word for it because I've been too lazy to take a picture. I did get a lovely shot of some similarly-colored lichen, though, which made for a better pattern name anyway. You can find that below! Yarn: Malabrigo Mecha (100% Merino Superwash Wool; 130 yards [120 meters]/100 grams); #031 Mostaza - one skein A better view of the back, cute little braid and all! Needles: One 16" circular needle in size US 10, one 16" circular needle in size US 11 needle, one set of double pointed needles in size US 11, and a cable needle (cn) or double pointed needle for cabling Notions: Tapestry needle, 4 stitch markers Gauge: 12 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette on size US 11 needles Which brings us to the pattern! Using your size 10 circular needle, then, cast on 66 stitches loosely, place marker, and join in round. Then we'll work a few edging rows, for which you'll need the following terminology. Remember you can always skip your cable needle, if you'd like. back cross (bc): slip 2 stitches to cn and hold in back; k2, k2 from cn front cross (fc): slip 2 stitches to cn and hold in front; k2, k2 from cn And once you've got that covered, we'll continue like so: I'm also lichen this lichen! Edging Rows 1, 3, & 5: knit until you have 8 stitches left in row, p1, k6, p1 Edging Row 2: knit until you have 8 stitches left in row, p1, bc, k2, p1 Edging Row 4: knit until you have 8 stitches left in row, p1, k2, fc, p1 Knit edging rows 1 - 5. Transfer work to your size 11 circular needle. And then we'll move to the main pattern, which goes as follows. And, as a note, it's important to leave the yarn behind your six slipped stitches loose-ish, but it's not as important as it would be in mosaic knitting, so you don't need to stress about it too much! Anyway, let's work like so: Row 1: knit until you have 8 stitches left in row, p1, bc, k2, p1 Rows 2 & 3: knit until you have 8 stitches left in row, p1, slip 6 with yarn in back (sl6 wyib), p1 Row 4: knit until you have 8 stitches left in row, p1, k2, fc, p1 Rows 5 & 6: knit until you have 8 stitches left in row, p1, sl6 wyib, p1 Knit row 1 - 6 four times, and then knit rows 1 - 4 once more. Now, we'll knit one marker placement row (which will also serve as a decrease row), as follows: Marker Placement Row: k1, ssk, k19, k2tog, place marker, k10, place marker, ssk, k19, k2tog, place marker, k1, p1, sl6 wyib, p1 (62 stitches) Knit this row, and then we'll continue in our decrease as follows: Decrease Row 1: k1, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, p1, sl6 wyib, p1 (-4 stitches) Decrease Row 2: k1, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, p1, bc, k2, p1 (-4 stitches) Decrease Rows 3 & 4: k1, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, p1, sl6 wyib, p1 (-4 stitches) Decrease Row 5: k1, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, p1, k2, fc, p1 (-4 stitches) Decrease Row 6: k1, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you're two stitches before next marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, p1, sl6 wyib, p1 (-4 stitches) Knit decrease rows 1 - 6 once, and knit decrease rows 1 - 3 once more, remembering to transfer work to your dpns once it gets too small for the circulars. Then we'll knit one final row, as follows, during which you can remove any extra stitch markers you may still have in place: Final Row: k2, k2tog, k10, ssk, k2, p1, sl6 wyib, p1 Complete this final row, after which you should have 24 stitches left. Our next step will be to divide our remaining 24 stitches into two groups of 12. We'll do this by knitting the first two stitches of the next row, and then transferring the following 12 stitches to a dpn for grafting. Place remaining 12 stitches on a second dpn (and yes, this means that the end of your row will end up between the tenth and eleventh of those twelve stitches, and not at the end, and those first two knit stitches will be the last two stitches of these twelve). Using the Kitchener stitch, graft these final 24 stitches together. Tuck in ends and block, if desired.

Photo above © SusanneS-vV This knit tutorial / pattern is available from Ravelry... Full Post: French Cancan

It took forever, but I finally finished unpicking all that quilting! Now to add a bit of fabric to the backing and it'll be ready for round two.

I have some good news. And, I have some bad news. Good news first: there is no one right way to weave in your ends. So, chances are, you haven't been doing it wrong! Now, the bad news: there are so many different ways to weave in your ends, you might not be doing it the best way either.

Looking for some quilting inspiration? Try these Nine Patch block ideas.

All knitters know how painstaking a task winding yarn is on your poor wrists. There's also a lot dexterity you need to keep the yarn from tangling into a big mess. (This unfortunate mess has happened to me many times.) Craftster.org's multitude of project forums saves the day with a DIY Lego Yarn Winder. Powered by two motors and an RCX unit, this automatic yarn winder is just the excuse we need to go out and buy a new box of Legos. Thanks Leah! Link

Make a scrappy granny squares quilt with this free tutorial. Free quilt pattern for your jelly rolls. Easy beginner friendly jelly roll quit pattern.

Slouchy Spiral Hat Free Crochet Pattern is surprisingly straight forward and very easy to create. It works up quickly in all double crochet stitches.

Als je bijna klaar bent met de laatste toer...sluit je niet met een halve vaste. Je maakt een lange lus en knipt de lus door. When you are almiost done, don't finish your work with a slip stitch. Cut thread before last sc. Met een stopnaald ga je (aan de voorkant van je werk) door het Vtje heen. Use a needle and go through the first V of the beginning of this tour. Dan ga je terug in het Vtje van het draadje. Wacht even voor je de naald er doorheen haalt en kijk eerst even goed naar de volgende foto. Put needle in biginning point thread. Turn your work and look at the nex pic. Dit is de achterkant van je werk. Als je de naald door het Vtje steekt, kun je het draad ook gelijk wegwerken. Go through a couple sc and pull gently. Break thread. Tadaaa ;-) Done^_^

Super fast project great for Halloween or just when you need to be quirky. Thing you need: Worsted Weight acrylic yarn (I used Red Heart Super Saver) Main color and black Size 11 (8mm) needles Yarn needle Scissors Headband: Using double yarn (two strands) of main color CO 2 sts leaving tail of 12 inches Row 1: knit Row 2: k1 M1 k1 Row 3: k1 M1 k2 Row 4: k1 M1 k3 Row 5: k1 M1 k4 Row 6: k1 M1 k5 Row 7: k1 M1 k6 Row 8: k1 M1 k7 (9sts) Rows 9-40: k Row 41: k1 k2tog k6 Row 42: k1 k2tog k5 Row 43: k1 k2tog k4 Row 44: k1 k2tog k3 Row 45: k1 k2tog k2 Row 46: k1 k2tog k1 Row 47: k1 k2tog Row 49: k2tog Cut off 12 inches of yarn and pull through last stitch. Ties: Cut four 24 inch long pieces of yarn in main color Thread two pieces through each end of headband Braid yarn (you should have 6 strands- two from headband and 4 that you just added) Tie off and cut ends evenly Ears 1: Fold headband in half and find were you want to place the ears Pick up 5 stitches Row 1: with double thread *k1 pu1 till you have 9 sts Shown with single yarn, you will be using double Rows 2-5: k Row 6: Switch to double black k Row 7: k1 k2tog k6 Row 8: k1 k2tog k5 Row 9: k1 k2tog k4 Row 10: k1 k2tog k3 Row 11: k1 k2tog k2 Row 12: k1 k2tog k1 Row 13: k1 k2tog Row 14: k2tog Row 15: cut yarn and pull through stitch Ear 2: On opposite side of fold pick up 5 stitches making sure to run the needle the opposite direction (otherwise this ear will be backwards) repeat ear 1 process Weave in ends and you have a fox headband! Optional bow is a simple strip of garter stitch tied in the middle and sewn to ear. Since headband is worked in a garter stitch it will fit kids and adults alike since it stretches. I suggested 40 rows but you may want to make yours shorter or longer. Make them in any color! Do not distribute or publish this pattern in any other form. If you like this pattern and would like to share please link to this blog. Thank you. Feeling Foxy on Ravelry

Knit yourself a whole flock of tiny chickens with this pattern excerpt from Anna Hrachovec's new book, Teeny-Tiny Mochimochi.

Happy Friday! I love Friday before a long weekend! Labor Day is Monday, everyone can sleep in, there's lots going on and I should be getting a lot of crochet time in too! This month's free pattern is inspired by the recent SUPER iam8bit show in LA. When I was little, the arcade on the square (yes, I'm from a really small town) had Ms. Pac-man. I always wished the in-game Ms. Pac-man more closely resembled the voluptuous technicolor creature painted on the side of the game console. The round yellow ball with a red bow on one side was just a tiny bit less realistic. Ms. Pac-Man Here's what you'll need: Materials: Worsted weight yarn (yellow, red and black) Black felt Polyester fiberfill Tools: Size E crochet hook (or your favorite size) Yarn needle Embroidery needle Craft glue Key: ch: chain sc: single crochet sl st: slip stitch Body: R1: With E hook and yellow yarn, make and adjustable ring. Ch 1, and sc 6 into the ring. Pull ring closed. R2: Work 2 sc into each st around (12) R3: (2 Sc into next st, sc into next st)* rep to end of the round (18) R4: (2 Sc into next st, sc into next 2 st)* rep to end of round (24) R5: (2 Sc into next st, sc into next 3 st)* rep to end of round (30) R6: (2 Sc into next st, sc into next 4 st)* rep to end of round (36) R7-8: Sc into each st around (36) R9: Sc into next 18 st, sl st into remaining 18 st (36) R10: Repeat R9 R11: Ch 18, skip next 18 st, sc into next 18 st (18) R12: Sc into next 18 ch, sc into next 18 st (36) R13: Sc into each st (36) R14: (Sc2tog, sc into next 4 st)* rep to end of round (30) R15: (Sc2tog, sc into next 3 st)* rep to end of round (24)R16: (Sc2tog, sc into next 2 st)* rep to end of round (18) R17: (Sc2tog, sc into next st)* rep to end of round (12) R18: Sc2tog around (6) Fasten off yarn with a slip stitch. Cut yarn tail and weave into last row of stitches, pulling tightly. Set the body aside. Mouth (Make 2) R1: With black yarn, make an adjustable ring, ch 1, sc 3 into the ring, and pull closed (3) R2: Ch 1, turn. 2 Sc into each st (6) R3: Ch 1, turn. (2 Sc into next st, sc into next st)* rep across row (9) R4: Ch 1, turn. (2 Sc into next st, sc into next 2 st)* rep across row (12) R5: Ch 1, turn. (2 Sc into next st, sc into next 3 st)* rep across row (15) R6: Ch 1, turn. (2 Sc into next st, sc into next 4 st)* rep across row (18) After making the two mouth pieces, you will have two semicircles. Seam them together to make one larger circle. Sew the seamed black mouth insert into the opening of the body. Stuff as you close up the last few stitches. Cut two small circles (about the size of a pencil eraser) from black felt. Cut two eyelash pieces from black felt. They should be shaped as shown in the photo. Glue the eyelash pieces to the back of each eye, then glue the assembled eye to each side of the body. Embroider lips onto the body. Starting in the middle of the mouth opening, make several long stitches going to the left and the right. Repeat for the bottom lip. Use black yarn to embroider a beauty mark on one side of the body. A French knot will make quick work of this. Red Bow Tie: With red yarn, ch 4. R1: Sc into 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, ch 1, turn (3) R2: Sc2tog, sc into next st, ch 1, turn (2) R3: Sc into each st, ch 1, turn (2) R4: Sc2tog, ch 1, turn (1) R5: 2 Sc into next st, ch 1, turn (2) R6: 2 Sc into next st, sc into next st, ch 1, turn (3) R7: Sc into each st, fasten off, leaving a long tail (3) Weave long tail through to middle of bowtie. Wrap center of bowtie with yarn tail and then weave tail back into bowtie. Use the yarn tail to sew the bowtie to body. Weave starting tail through bowtie and hide within body. Cute, right? You want to PLAY Ms. Pac-man? Here you go!

Option 1 Multiple Colors Option 2 2 Colors Option 3 3 Colors Click here to download now as a PDF My daughter needed some warm hats for the cold weather we have been having and as I had just bought a whole bunch of yummy super soft merino yarn in ten different colors, she decided she needed a hat in every color and combination possible with green being her favorite, so hence the idea. I wanted a pattern that is easy to customize, to create different looks. Therefore there are simple instructions here as well as several different options for varying the look of the hats. My daughter calls all the hats I am making using this pattern “Lollipop Hats” ... hence the name...her names usually stay over mine. Have fun creating your own combinations using the pattern as a guide. Sizes: XS (S, M, L) To fit head: 41-46 (46-51, 48-54, 51-56) cm or 16-18 (18-20, 19-21, 20-22)” Yarn Required 83 (100, 114, 128) meters or 90 (110, 125, 140) yards of DK wool yarn. (Use either a single color or several). Suggested Yarn: Dia Twist DK by Colour Adventures (100% merino; 229 m/250 yds in 115 g/4.0 oz) Cloud DK by Colour Adventures (80% merino, 10% cashmere, 10% nylon; 211 m/231 yds in 100 g/3.5 oz) Option 1 is shown in Georgin, Citrus, Lemon, Fresh Leaves, Forget Me Not, Blue Bell, and Blush colorways Option 2 is shown in Chilly and Mauve colorways Option 3 is shown in Georgin, Citrus, and Blush colorways Gauge: 21-22 sts per 4 inches in stockinette stitch on 4 mm/US #6 needles or size required to meet gauge. Notions 3.5 mm/US #4 circular needles (30 or 40 cm/16”) 4 mm/US #6 circular needles (40 cm/16") 4 mm/US #6 double pointed needles or long circular for magic looping. Stitch marker Abbreviations k2tog =knit 2 stitches together skp = slip one stitch, knit the following stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. st/s = stitch/es. m1 = make one new st; using left needle from front to back - lift running strand between stitches, and then knit into the back loop of the strand. k = knit. Pattern Instructions Plain Hat Using smaller sized needles (3.5 mm/US 4) cast on 65 (75, 85, 95) sts. Join in the round and knit 8 rounds. Increase Rnd: *K13 (15, 17, 19), m1* repeat to the end of round. 70 (80, 90, 100) sts. Change to bigger needles (4 mm/US #6) and knit until the hat measures 10 (11.5, 12.5, 14) cm or 4 (4.5, 5, 5.5) inches from the rolled up rim or 12.5 (14, 15, 16.5) cm or 5 (51/2, 6, 6.5) inches from the cast on edge. Crown Shaping Rnd 1: *skp, k6, k2tog* repeat to the end of the round. Total 56 (64, 72, 80) sts. Rnd 2-5: knit Rnd 6: *skp, k4, k2tog* repeat to the end of the round. 42 (48, 54, 60) sts. Rnd 7-9: knit Rnd 10: *skp, k2, k2tog* repeat to the end of the round. 28 (32, 36, 40) sts. Rnd 11-12: knit Rnd 13: *skp, k2tog* repeat to the end of the round. 14 (16, 18, 20) sts. Rnd 14: knit Rnd 15: *k2tog* repeat to the end of the round. 7 (8, 9, 10) sts. Break yarn, thread through remaining stitches, and fasten off. If you want to put a pom-pom on top, then leave about 25 cm/10 inch tail to attach it. Weave in any loose ends. Option 1 (multiple colors): Using main color and smaller needles (3.5 mm/US #4), work as for the ‘Plain Hat’ up to the Increase Rnd. You should have 70 (80, 90, 100) sts. Knit one more round in main color and change to bigger needles (4 mm/US #6). Then knit with as many colors you want (see example color sequence given below) until the hat measures 10 (11.5, 12.5, 14) cm or 4 (4.5, 5, 5.5) inches from the rolled up rim or 12.5 (14, 15, 16.5) cm or 5 (5.5, 6, 6.5) inches from the cast on edge. Tip: see the link at the end for a method to weave in ends as you work. Work Crown Shaping as for the Plain Hat. Weave in all loose ends. The hat pictured above used 7 colors. The stripes are organized in the following sequence from bottom up: 8 rnds, *6 rnds, 4 rnds, 3 rnds, 3 rnds, 3 rnds*, repeat * * till the end. Each number of rnds represents a different color. Option 2 (2 colors): Using CC and smaller needles (3.5 mm/US #4), cast on 90 (100, 110, 120) sts. Knit for 4 rnds. Next round: *knit 7 (8, 9, 10), k2tog* repeat to the end of the round. 80 (90, 100, 110) sts. Knit 2 rnds. Next round: *knit 6 (7, 8, 9), k2tog* repeat to the end of the round. You should have 70 (80, 90, 100) stitches. Knit 2 rounds. Next Rnd: Change to MC and knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. The sts were decreased by 1 to give an odd number of stitches for the smooth flow of the seed stitch pattern. You should have 69 (79, 89, 99 sts). Rnd 1: *k1, p1* repeat to the last st, k1. Rnd 2: *p1, k1* repeat to the last st, p1. Repeat Rnd 1 & 2, for 3 times more for a total of 8 rounds. Change to CC and bigger needles (4mm/US#6) k1, m1, knit to the end of rnd. You should have 70, (80, 90, 100) sts. Rnd 1: purl Rnd 2: knit Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 for two more times, then repeat Rnd 1 only. Change to MC and knit until the hat measures 10 (11.5, 12.5, 14) cm or 4 (4.5, 5, 5.5) inches from the rolled up rim or 12.5 (14, 15, 16.5) cm or 5 (5.5, 6, 6.5) inches from the cast on edge. Work Crown Shaping as for the Plain Hat. Once done attach some kind of a decorative button to the garter stitch. Option 3 (3 colors): Using main color and smaller needles (3.5 mm/US #4), work as for the ‘Plain Hat’ up to the Increase Rnd. You should have 70 (80, 90, 100) sts. Knit one more round in main color. Change to bigger needles (4 mm/US #6). With color A knit 5 rnds. Using main color knit for 8 rnds. With color B knit 5 rnds. Using main color knit 8 rnds. And so on until the hat measures 10 (11.5, 12.5, 14) cm or 4 (4.5, 5, 5.5) inches from the rolled up rim or 12.5 (14, 15, 16.5) cm or 5 (5.5, 6, 6.5) inches from the cast on edge. Work Crown Shaping as in the Plain Hat. Weave in all loose ends. Add a pom-pom on top for a cute finishing touch. Click here to see more free patterns from Elena Nodel Click here to see ebooks available to purchase.

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Learn tips and tricks for a making a classic quilt with neat squares and perfectly matched seams with this postage stamp quilt tutorial!

The pattern has been released in Finnish at Taito Magazine 1/2019. SIZES: XS, S, M1 (M2, L, XL, XXL) / Your bust approx. 80, 90, 95 (105, 115, 120, 130) cm, suggested positive ease 0-10 cm on bust. Finished bust circumference: 91, 97, 105 (113, 121, 129, 135) cm The sweater is knitted seamlessly from the top down holding 2 strands, 1 woolen and 1 silk mohair, at the same time. ** You need Yarn: -5, 5, 6 (6, 7, 8, 8) skeins of 100% Finnish wool 
Tukuwool Fingering 
(50 g / 195 m, 213 yd) 
/ 220, 250, 280 (300, 330, 360, 400) g / 860, 975, 1100 (1170, 1290, 1400, 1560) m 
/ 940, 1065, 1200 (1280, 1410, 1530, 1705) yd -4, 5, 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) skeins of lace weight Isager Silk Mohair 
(25 g / 212 m, 193 yd) 
/ 100, 115, 130 (140, 155, 165, 185) g 
/ 860, 975, 1100 (1170, 1290, 1400, 1560) m
/ 940, 1065, 1200 (1280, 1410, 1530, 1705) yd -OR any other yarn that goes to gauge, DK for example. Needles: -Main needle 4 mm (US 6), 40 cm (16”) and 80 cm (32”) or longer, DPNs for the sleeves if you don’t magic loop -Ribbing needle 3,5 mm (US 4) 40 cm (16”) for the neckline, DPNs for the sleeve cuffs if you don’t magic loop -6 stitch markers (1 different for BOR) Gauge: 20 sts x 28 rows = 10 cm / 4” stockinette st using 4 mm (US 6) needle with both yarns held together

I am sharing 10 free Jelly Roll Patterns with you today that are my favorites from around the internet. Beautiful patterns that aren't complicated!

Image source *Thanks to ddarimont for coining the phrase. Oh, the fun I've missed! Only today did I find out that the US Olympic Committee wrote a cease and desist letter to Ravelry due to their planned Ravelympics which, apparently, "denigrates the true nature of the Olympic Games". Oh, really? It is all too silly for words anyway. There should be a limit as to what type of words you can copyright. Ravelympics may sound too much like Olympics, but if anyone should own this trademark it's the Greek, as far as I'm concerned. They'd be far better off as well at the moment. If you have a Ravelry account, you can read up on the entire matter here. This may also be of interest, and you can find a few very angry knitters on the US Olympic Team's Facebook page. I have no patience for such stupidity.

Knitting for babies is such a tradition. If baby is born in those chilly Winter months, it makes so much sense to knit for them. Now my knitting skills are limitd. I could probably manage a blanket and a scarf and that would be it. But I know knitters with greater skills than I could...Read More »

Extreme crochet brings a smile to my face. Via sarahlondon

Note: 1. More Free Patterns can be seen along the sidebar (on right side), or you can use the Free Patterns label to view all posts. 2. Fr...

A small triangular shawl with an easy lacy border, the Oaklet is a pretty little accessory that you can wear around your neck or across your shoulders. In the size shown, Oaklet uses about one skein of fingering weight yarn. It’s worked on relatively large needles for extra drape, and the pattern is easy to modify.

6/13/2013 UPDATE: MY FRIENDS! Thank you for coming by to visit this post! When I peruse my stats (because I am a statistician, that is what I do), this post always has a bazillion people clicking…

Well I did it. I made my own pattern. I was inspired when I made a Kittyville hat for my nephew. I altered the Kittyville pattern by using a 2x2 rib at the bottom instead of a seed stitch. The hat was black and yellow and was intended to look like Batman. The ribbing reminded me of the yellow paper that you put cupcakes into when you bake them. So I came up with this hat. Here's the pattern for a three year old hat. Enjoy! I used leftover worsted-weight pink, yellow and red yarn. You'll need size 8 circular (16") and double pointed needles. Cast on 80 stitches with the yellow yarn. Work 2x2 rib for 3 inches. Change to pink yarn work *Knit 3, Knit one into front and back* for entire round, ending with 100 stitches.Work until piece measures 5 inches from cast on edge. Then you start the decreases. *Knit 8, Knit 2 together* for entire round (90)- Knit next round *Knit 7, knit 2 together* for a round (80) - Knit next round *Knit 6, knit 2 together* for a round (70) - Knit next round *Knit 5, knit 2 together* to end (60) - Knit next round *Knit 4, Knit 2 together* (50) - knit next round Switch to double pointed needles. *Knit 3, knit 2 together* for one round (40)- Knit next round *Knit 2, knit 2 together* (30) - Knit next round *Knit 1, Knit 2 together* (20) *Knit 2 together* to end of round (10) Break yarn, draw yarn through remaining stiches and secure inside hat. Make a red pompom and attach to top of hat. Ding! The cupcake hat is done!

The Dalliance Glove is a fingerless glove sewing pattern that features fabric folds buttoned to the fully lined glove. These flirtatiously fun gloves can be made with a knit or woven fabric. A charming way to keep your hands warm! The PDF pattern includes instructions, illustrations, glossary and full size pattern pieces. Also included with the pattern are tips on how sew with knit fabrics on a home sewing machine. To view the fabric requirements, simply click on the second picture. There is no need to enlarge any of the pattern pieces. It's all there, ready to be made as soon as you print the pattern! After payment has been confirmed, an email will be sent letting you know that your pdf pattern is ready to download. This email is in addition to the purchase confirmation email. A "Ready to download" button will appear on the Purchases and Receipt page. Licensing information is available if you would like to make this pattern for resale. Convo me if would like more licensing information. More patterns are available in my etsy shop. Thanks =) www.prettyditty (my shop)

Make you own, get a free pattern designed by Ali Hogg! Made and shared by Shoshana aka byebluemonday. SUGGESTED MATERIALS - KnitPicks: This post contains affiliate links.

Step 1: To edge the first block, join with sc in any corner, ch 3, sc in same sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-sp) around with (sc, ch 3, sc) in ea...

What do you make for a little girl having a snail-themed birthday? You sew a stuffed snail, of course. With soft, snuggly flannelette for the shell.

Hello. I'm an unemployed coal miner with a ton of time on my hands-and not a lot of money. In order to keep busy and/or sane, I have really developed my creative side. I spend a large portion of my idle time in my back room that my mom recently dubbed "The Laboratory". I have wanted to share my creations for some time and have finally braved the woes of my windows vista inhibited computer to bring to life my first contribution. This is my "debut flake", a first appearance. I hope you like it. The pattern is free, all I ask is that you don't sell the pattern. Debut Flake size 30 ( I used DMC cebelia) #14 steel hook Round 1. 6 sc in a magic ring. Join in 1st sc w/ sl st. Round 2. ch 14 (counts as dtr and ch 9) in same sc as join. [ch 9, dtr in next sc] 4 times. Ch 9, sl st in 5th ch of beginning ch 14. Round 3. Ch 5 (counts as dtr). *dtr in next ch, tr in next ch, dc in nect ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in next ch, dtr in next ch* dtr in next dtr** . Repeat from * to **around, ending at last *. Sl st in top of beginning ch 5. Round 4. Ch 1, 2 sc in same st as join. *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc*. Repeat from * to * around. Join w/ sl st in first sc. Round 5. Sl st in next 8 st. (you want to be in the st above the hdc on the left side of the sc from round 3). *ch 21, sk the next 12 sc, sl st in next 3 sc*. Repeat from * to * 5 times, ending with 1 sl st in next sc.(middle sl st is directly above sc from round 3). No join. Round 6. Sl st in next in next sc, ch 1 sc in same st. * Ch 12, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in next 7 ch. Ch 10, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in next 6 ch. Ch 9, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in next 5 ch. Ch 21, sl st in 1st ch. Ch 7 sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in next 5 ch. Sl st 2 remaining ch of ch 9. Ch 8 sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in next 6 ch. Sl st in remaining 3 ch of ch 10. Ch 9, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in next 7 ch. Sl st in remaining 4 ch of ch 12. Sl st in top of sc.* Sl st in chain 21 space. Ch 1, sc in same space. 9 sc in same space, ** sc into 11th ch of ch 21. Ch 13, sl st in 1st ch. Sc in 11th ch. 10 sc in same ch 21 space. Sc in middle sl st.**[ Repeat from * to *, in next ch 21 sp do 10 sc, repeat from** to **] 5 times. Join w/ sl st to first sc. End off. Weave in ends. To Finish, pin snowflake onto dense cork board or a cardboard box covered with tinfoil or plastic wrap. The big diamonds are pinned in 5th, 10th, and 15th ch; while the small diamonds are pinned in the 3rd, 6th and 9th chs. For starching I like to use liquid starch. The stitches and luster of your thread are more visible this way. You may use glue or fabric stiffener if desired. I usually paint my stiffener on with a brush after my snowflake is pinned. However you may dip your snowflake in a plastic Ziploc with your preferred stiffener, and after blotting off excess with a paper towel, pin out your snowflake. I hope you enjoyed my free crochet snow flake pattern. Check back because there are more free patterns to follow. Including some valentine flakes, and other projects too- not just snowflakes. Be sure to let me know if there are issues or you need any help with my pattern.