Prompted by the arrival of our fabulous 100% linen sheeting range , here's a tutorial to show you just how easy it is to make your own fit...
If you’ve been following along for a while, you may remember this post, but I’ve been getting a lot of French seam questions lately so I figured it wouldn’t hurt to resurrect this tutorial from the blog archives and set it free a second time. I’m first going to do a run through of the french seam and then will show you how to apply it to the armhole. Just a few notes before we begin… 1. french seams are usually best used on light to medium weight fabric. 2. French seams require you to split your seam allowance in two parts. This tutorial is done using a 1/2″ seam allowance, but if you are working with a 5/8″ seam allowance, sew the first seam at 3/8″ and the second at 1/4″. I’ve tried to notate where this applies. With that, lets get to it! Click through to view the tutorial. French Seams on Straight Seams Step 1 | Cut your pieces from your fabric. I only made a half top for this so photographing would be easier, but yours will look normal of course. Step 2 | Sew the sides and shoulder seams with the wrong sides of the fabric together at 1/4″ (or 3/8″ if you have a 5/8″ seam allowance) and press the seam open. I like to do all of the seams at once instead of completing one seam at a time because you are much less likely to end up with one seam backwards. Step 3 | Grade your seam allowance down to 1/8″. Step 4 | Fold and press along the seam so that the right sides are together and stitch at 1/4″. Step 5 | Press both the side seams and shoulder seams towards the back of the garment and this part of the process is over! French Seaming Armholes (and other curved seams) Step 6 | First we will assemble the sleeves, this part is a bit repetitive. Sew the underarm seams with the wrong sides of the fabric together at 1/4″ (or 3/8″ if you have a 5/8″ seam allowance). Step 7 | Press the seam open and grade the seam allowance down to 1/8″. Step 8 | Fold and press along the seam so that the right sides are together and stitch at 1/4″. Press seam towards back of sleeve. Step 9 | Sew a line of gathering threads from the front notch to the back notches. Step 10 | Pin your sleeve and armhole together with wrong sides facing. Begin by matching the underarm seams and notches. Step 11 | Pull on your gathering stitches to ease the sleeve cap into the armhole. Stitch around the seam at 1/4″ (or 3/8″ if you’re working with a 5/8″ seam allowance). After sewing this seam, check for any tucks and remove them if you have any. Step 12 | Press the seam open and grade the seam allowance down to 1/8″. This will be most easily accomplished by cramming a ham or sleeve roll inside your shirt and pressing the seam around that. Step 13 | Fold and press along the seam so that the right sides are together and stitch at 1/4″. Check for any tucks and correct those if you have any. You should now have a french seamed armhole like the one below, congrats! And that’s that! As always if you have any questions leave me a note below and I’ll leave you a reply; I try to respond to all comments. Hope you find this tutorial useful!
Learn how to finish a seam and when to use it with one of these 9 seam finishes. There are different seam finishes for knit and woven fabric.
Gathering fabric is beautiful, but it is also time-consuming. In this article, you will learn the easiest and fastest way to gather fabric. Any kind of it!
Velvet is my favorite fabric for creating a high-style look and I like to use all kinds of velvet for my sewing projects but it can be a little bit tricky sometimes. In this sewing tutorial, you will find 12 must know velvet sewing tips and tricks: how to select patterns to sew in velvet, how to cut velvet, how to determine nap of velvet, how to sew velvet on your sewing machine, how to iron velvet, etc.
Learn How to Make Your Own Patterns - Part One Pattern Making Basics - The Pattern Making Process
Ruching fabric is so easy and can be used in many ways, from gathering up the sides of a shirt to shortening sleeves. How to sew ruching.
Gathering fabric is beautiful, but it is also time-consuming. In this article, you will learn the easiest and fastest way to gather fabric. Any kind of it!
This sewing basic tutorial will teach you how to sew a gathering stitch for perfect ruffles every time.
Drafting and sewing instructions for you to sew a robe - DIY gift for women that can be made in any size out of rectangles
Following on from our NEW invisible zipper tutorial, here's how to attach your zipper to a facing with your sewing machine like a pro! NOTE: This tutorial is demonstrating a side invisible zipper (as
There is no anxiety sewists dread more than the anxiety that comes when you are snipping away at your precious fabric. The saying "measure twice, cut once" is there for a reason. If you cut your fabric incorrectly, it can ruin a project and it can cost you a ton of money. That's why we have this quick guide on How to Cut Fabric. This resource is going to provide you with the basics of cutting fabric for sewing and more. Fabric is not cheap and if you do not know how to cut fabric properly, it can do some serious damage. It is even harder to learn how to pin and cut a pattern on the fabric. You have to cut your fabric to match your piece, ensure that your print is going the right way, and make sure that you cut the right side facing out. Stressed out yet? Don’t worry, sewists. That’s why we are here yet again to help you out. This sewing guide is going to give you the top 5 things you can do to cut fabric perfectly every single time. For more sewing inspiration, sign up for our e-newsletter!
Dolman sleeves are an easy-sew option when you want more coverage than a sleeveless dress or top without the added time and effort of sewing set-in sleeves. This sleeve type is a feature of both the girl's and women's Pearlie Dress & Peplum Top PDF Sewing Patterns. Some of you have mentioned that you find it tricky to turn and hem the sleeves when sewing your Pearlies, especially at the base of the armhole. If this is your least favourite step (and especially if you are working with a type of fabric that doesn’t allow you to manipulate the area easily) you should definitely give this method a go! In this tutorial, I’ve used a regular machine set on a stretch stitch to sew the side seams of the Bodice. The tight corner would make it hard to sew with an overlocker/serger but you could instead finish each side of the Bodice Front & Back with a zig-zag or overcasting stitch on your regular machine before sewing them together. The shoulder seams, skirt seams and neckband can, of course, be finished with an overlocker/serger as usual. Also, note that the pattern instructions (for the original gathered skirt Pearlie) have you attaching the Skirt Front & Back to the Bodice Front & Back before sewing the side seams. But in this example, having already sewn the Bodice side seams, I’m going to attach the skirt in the round. (Note: if using the circle skirt add-ons for the Pearlie Dress or Top you would, as per the instructions, be attaching the skirt in the round.) Step 1: MODIFY THE BODICE PATTERN PIECES The Bodice pattern pieces have you cutting the hem allowance horizontally out from the base of the armhole in a straight line. Instead of cutting them in that way, “mirror” the shape at the top of the side seam where it intersects with the armhole in a downward facing “v”. You will need to go 1cm (3/8”) down from the intersection. It would be best to do this by tracing off your pattern pieces with the revised shape and using it as your new template rather than just eye-balling it while cutting! Step 2: SEW SHOULDER SEAMS & SIDE SEAMS Sew the shoulder seams, finish seam and press. Sew the side seams using the stretch stitch on your machine. (You could mark the stitch lines with a soluble marker to help with accuracy). Use some sharp scissors to make a small snip half way into the corner of armhole where the stitch direction changes. Press seams out. Step 3: PRESS SEAM ALLOWANCE Press armhole hem all the way around. The photos shows you what it looks like from the inside. Step 4: TRIM EXCESS You can snip off the little bits of excess fabric that peep out from under the hem if you wish. Step 5: READY FOR HEMMING! You can see that the armhole hem allowance is sitting nicely even before stitching. This was our goal here, so YAAY! Your armholes are ready for hemming in your preferred way using a single or twin needle or zig-zag stitch.
Today I'll be showing you my favourite neckline finish for knit fabrics. It's my personal method for sewing knit neckline bindings, and I prefer it to the standard method!
Learn how to make patterns that are reusable and will last longer than a traditional paper pattern. Get tips on how to trace and transfer pattern marks.
How to fix holes or rips in gauze or other light-weight fabric
Using invisible thread can be tricky when working on a quilt project. This video gives a few helpful tips on when to use the thread and the type you should look for.
I love, love, love shirring! It's so easy to do and doesn't require a whole lot of thinking. I've had an awful headache all day and this project was actually soothing. To Practice This You'll Need: sewing machine thread elastic thread big scraps of fabric First, hand wind the elastic...
Below is a tutorial on how to shirr with elastic thread. Before we begin, I must mention that this is a compilation of shirring techniques which I have learned from 3 specific resources: Portabellopixie, Craftstylish, and Heather Ross's book Weekend Sewing. And away we go....... Supplies ~ 1 spool of elastic thread ~ matching thread (must match your fabric) ~ fabric (i used Robert Kaufman's Kona Cotton Celery) ~ 1/4" elastic (optional) Instructions 1. Finish the upper raw edge of the bodice. I like to finish it by making a casing for a 1/4" elastic band. If you have 2 separate pieces (bodice and skirt) sewn together, you can turn the seam allowance into a casing for an additional band of elastic at the waist line. Simply finish the raw edge of the seam allowance and sew the edge of the SA to the bodice. After I have shirred the fabric, I then thread the elastic through the casing. This helps maintain and reinforce the shape of the garment. For now, just make the casing or finish the raw edges. You may want to mark your shirring lines on the fabric before you begin. Its recommended to mark every 1/4" to 1/2". I use my sewing foot to mark it (eyeball it), which works just fine for me and eliminates a step. If you are going to mark your fabric, mark the right side of the garment (visible side of the garment). Also, use tailors chalk, disappearing fabric ink, or some sort of erasable mark. 2. Wind the bobbin by hand with the elastic thread. It is very important not to stretch the elastic thread as you wind it. This is why you must do it by hand. There can not be any tension in the elastic thread. 3. Insert your bobbin into your sewing machine as you normally would. 4. Pull up the elastic thread as you normally would for regular bobbin thread. 5. I like to shirr with my walking foot. If you do not have a walking foot, then a regular foot will be just fine. With the right side of your garment facing up (elastic thread should be on the side that will not be visible on the completed garment), begin to take a few stitches, then back stitch to secure your thread. Stitch from one end to the other. 7. When you get to the end of your first row of stitches, back stitch and clip the threads. Turn the garment and begin sewing your next row the same way you did the first row. Another option (which is quicker) is when you get to the end of your first row of stitches, lift the presser foot, move the fabric over so that the needle is positioned over the next row. Lower the presser foot and needle. Pivot the fabric. Begin sewing the next row of stitches. Always back stitch when you come to the end of the elastic thread and make sure you have enough thread to complete a row. You may notice your first couple of rows don't gather as much as you'd like. Don't worry. As you continue to stitch more rows, your garment will gather more. 8. When you have completed shirring/smocking your garment, spray it with water. You will see your garment gather up nice and tight. Press your garment gently. Do not smooth the iron over the garment. Lightly press the gathers. 9. Thread your elastic through the casing/casings. 10. Stitch the elastic band ends to the garment. That's it! You're a shirr genius! Happy Creating =) Jamie Update: The Honey Girl Dress/Top sewing pattern (shown above) is available at Phat Fabric. Here's the link.
There are lots of ways to sew a bias binding to finish a garment, so I've put together a series of tutorials to walk you through three of my favorite options! You'll see...
Sleeve designs can be a little bit intimidating. Drafting them is kind of a science on its own, and it’s hard to imagine what shape you need to start with if
How to make a sewing pattern bigger or smaller - sewing pattern grading - make a sewing pattern a different size
Say goodbye to those annoying tiny t-shirt holes with this quick and easy repair!
Finish transparent edges with this simple-to-sew couture technique.
Whoever made up the phrase ‘I can’t even sew a straight line!’ didn’t know what they were talking about because sewing a straight line is one of the hardest things to master. I’ve been sewing for too
Beginner sewing refashion tutorial for how to add fabric to a shirt to make it bigger with a full photo walk through
Would you like to know how to sew an invisible zipper fast and simple? Are you intimidated by sewing the invisible zipper? Let me show you the fastest and easiest way to insert an invisible zip that eliminates the need for pins and basting. You don’t need to fumble with pins, baste the zipper or press the zipper teeth flat before starting. This technique will help you to eliminate common problems and get professional results that you will be proud to show off.
Want to learn how to put eyelets in fabric? This step by step tutorial will have you putting eyelets into fabric in no time. #sewing #eyelets #sewingprojects
Sharing step by step instructions for how to sew a hole, rip or tear in your clothes, making your favorite tee or pair of jeans last longer.
Essential Hand Sewing Stitches. Running Stitch. Backstitch. Blanket Stitch. Whip Stitch. Cross Stitch. Pickstitch. Catchstitch. Invisible Stitch
How to sew a curved hem? Well it depends! I've made a few videos explaining different techniques for sewing around curves.
Watch this quick video to walk you through the steps to get a really clean finish on side vent/split hem like on the Terra Tunic and Boyfriend Cardigan.
Learn how to make a gathered ruffle with this step-by-step tutorial including video.
HOW TO SEW A ROUND HEM: Learn how to create a great easy round hemline on your garments with this tutorial. Check this sewing tutorial here
I have a lot of shirts and dresses where the armhole is just too big or wide. Here's a tutorial to fix those large armholes.
It's that time of year when velvet starts making its triumphant comeback with holiday dresses for girls of all ages. Get tips from the pros who can sew it best.
Sewing piping can add a professional touch to the edges of cushions, bags, quilts and clothing. Learn how to sew piping for beginners.
Today I will walk you how to sew the elastic waistband on the Arden Pants, including inserting the elastic, and topstitching the waistband.
Learn how to finish a seam and when to use it with one of these 9 seam finishes. There are different seam finishes for knit and woven fabric.