End to end quilting designs are fun ways to personalize quilt projects. Learn how to use them from Designs by Juju and grab a freebie to try!

tutorial on joining the ends of quilt binding

It's important for any quilter to know how to join the ends of binding — no matter the skill level — and we're excited to show you how!

Hello! I've been wanting to do a couple of additions to my original quilt binding tutorial for a while, and I was finally able to take ...

When you’re working with lightweight fabrics, a French seam is often the finish of choice. But if there’s a side-seam vent, you need a way to neatly end the seam…

How to Join Quilt Binding Ends Step by Step complete with video

tutorial on joining the ends of quilt binding

How to join quilt binding ends. Step-by-step instructions for beginners. Everything you need to know about quilt binding.

Wondering How to Finish a Quilt? Top US quilting blog, Diary of a Quilter, features an Easy DIY Tutorial for Finishing and Binding a Quilt. Click here now!!

The first time I made a quilt I wasn't quite sure how to sew on the binding. I spent a lot of time making a quilt for my mom's 80th birthday, and I didn't want to mess it up by doing a poor job on the binding. Fortunately, I have a co-worker friend who is an avid quilter and gave me a super easy way to bind it.

Welcome :) I hope you’ve been well while I’ve been away from the computer. You may recall my little Blog Hop a week or so ago where I managed to over stretch myself and ended up not qui…

Learn how to stitch and flip with this easy-to-follow instructional video. This method uses squares and rectangles to end up with triangular shapes.

Rulers for quilting can be tricky! There are so many out there. Really. There are a lot!!! I sometimes get all caught up on the quilt ruler hype and then end up with these piles

Here are some great quilt games and puzzles. Great for quilting groups, guilds and retreats. Enjoy!

We all want a nice neat finish to the start and end of our sewing rows when we are quilting, so in this video, we show you a way to neatly tie of threads.It's quick, easy and secure, and you don't have the double line created by backstitching at the ends of your rows.Watch the video below to see how to Hide your Quilting Knots(Can't see the video below? You may have an ad blocker installed.)

This tutorial will get you started with unlined pojagi by hand. The seams are completely enclosed, so there is no right or wrong side to the end product.

In this tutorial I’m going to show you how I added a zipper placket to this Frankenbag. A couple of months ago I promised that I’d make a tutorial for adding a placket to this bag. I…

A few of us finally got together to learn the Snippets technique. I had to end it rather quickly but here are some shots! So fa...

Lots of quilters cringe when it’s time to marry the beginning and ending binding strips together with a seam.

Save when you buy the patterns together! This bundle of two digital sewing patterns in a PDF-format includes step-by-step photo instructions and full-size pattern pieces to make a Mini Bunny stuffed animal with set of clothes and sleeping basket. The sewing pattern is easy to follow and beginner friendly. Shop it now and learn how to sew your own dress-up stuffed animal with cosy carrycot!

Costuras inglesa o tejana (Flat-felled seams) Tailoring Metods - Sastreria Chaqueta - Confección (Jacket - Easy sewing). Tutotial tejidos transparentes (Sheer fabrics) Iron-on bias cut tape Bolsillos ribeteados con cartera (Welt pockets with flats - Poches passepoilées). Bolsillos ribeteados (Welt pockets). Bolsillos ribeteados para pantalón (Back Welt Pocket Pant). Bolsillos de "ojal" con ribetes cortados al biés (Welt pocket with bias binding cut). Bolsillo de un ribete (Single welt pocket). Bolsillos integrados en las costuras (In-seam pockets). Ojal ribeteado (Bound buttonhole - Boutonnière passepoilée). Ojales de sastre (Hand Buttonholes - Boutonnières tailleur). Tejidos reversibles I (Double-face fabrics I). Tejidos reversibles II (Double face fabrics II). Confección de cintas al biés (Make a bias binding tape). Vivos de adorno intercalados en las costuras (Inseam bias binding tape). Costura "doble" ó costura "inglesa" (Double-Stitched Seam - Coutures renforcées). Desflecados (Fringed embellishments - Embellissements frangées). Cinturón "Couture" ("Couture" Belt - Ceinture "façon"). Cuello de peletería (Fur collar - Col de fourrure). Falda (Easy skirts - Jupe falice). Botones forrados (Covered buttons - Boutons recouverts). Confección tejidos bordados (Sew embroidery fabrics - Tissus broderie). Falda de medio círculo (Half circle skirt - Jupe circulaire). Refuerzo con "percalina" de organza (Organza underlining - Triplure couture). Blusa con escote drapeado (Draped neckline top - Haut à encolure drapée). Alteraciones sobre el patrón (Resize pattern - Redimensionner modèle). Costuras en "esquinas" (Sewing a perfect corner - Coudre un angle parfaite). Cuello "chimenea" drapeado ("chimney" draped collar - Col cheminée drapée). Refuerzo con entretelas termofijables (FBlock Fusing- Triplure entoilage thermocollant). Capas circulares (Poncho - Capes). Falda plisada (Pleated skirt - Jupe plissée). Falda "Portafolio" (Wrap skirt - Jupe portefeuille). Capa corta (Capelet). Rectificaciones patrón (Resize pattern - Redimensionner modèle) Costuras difíciles en zonas redondeadas - Sew in rounded areas Todos los derechos reservados. Está prohibida la reproducción y distribución total o parcial de los textos e imágenes que aparecen en este sitio, así como su traducción a cualquier idioma sin la autorización del autor. Queda prohibida también la utilización por parte de terceros no autorizados. All rights reserved. It is prohibited to reproduce and distribute in whole or in part the text and images that appear here, including in translation in any language, without authorization from the author. It is also prohibited to use this information if obtained from unauthorized third parties.

I don’t know about you, but my kids refuse to use a flat sheet. I’ve tried off and on since they were about 2, but the flat sheet always ended ...

Find out how to add zipper tabs to the end of your zippers. A great way to finish off zippers on the ends of zippered pouches. This tutorial will show you how easy they are to make.

One of the first things you need to learn when you’re new to quilting is how to sew consistent ¼” seams. This is important because it helps you create blocks that all turn out the same size with corners that line up perfectly. When your seams are inconsistent, you might end up with one block that is 12 inches and anoth

This digital pattern shows you how to neatly sew quilted zip pouches. There are seven different sized zip pouches within the pattern, ranging from a small coin purse size to the largest size which fits a standard size laptop. Skill level: Beginner Zip lengths: (closed end zip) 10cm (4’’) 15cm (6’’) 20cm (8’’) 25cm (10’’) 30cm (12’’) 36cm (14’’) Fabric requirements: Based on a fabric width of 90cm (35.4’’) you will need the following amount of each fabric to make all seven of the quilted zip pouches: Outer: 1.5M (1.7 yards) Lining: 1M (1.1 yards) Wadding: 1.5M (1.7 yards) This pattern is a digital download. The pattern and instruction booklet can be printed on a home printer and is compatible with both A4 and US letter paper. An A1 copy shop file will also be included in the download if you prefer to have it printed out on a large scale. The documents are written in English. Your download will be sent to you in your order confirmation email. The file is in ZIP format, once downloaded it should be double clicked to open all the files. It works best to download and print the files on a computer/ laptop not on a mobile phone. Video tutorial: https://youtu.be/3R8B59Iv12A

I know there are lots of zippered pouch tutorials out there, and they're great, but I haven't found one that explains how to make the ends of the zipper more finished. Once I figured out how to do this, I thought I'd share. This tutorial is more about the zipper ends than it is about the finished pouch. Though I am going to tell you how big I cut everything, you can easily make these pouches any size you want. I tried to take a lot of pictures, but if anything is unclear, please let me know! Supplies: (2) Exterior pieces, I cut mine 8.5" x 6.5" (2) Lining pieces, mine are 8.5" x 6.25" (1) 2"x4" piece of exterior fabric to cover the zipper ends (2) pieces of medium weight fusible interfacing OR fusible fleece the same size as your exterior pieces. The interfacing you use will determine the feel of your pouch. The mid-weight interfacing, I used Decor Bond by Pellon, gives the pouch a bit more stiffness while the fleece will make the pouch more soft and pliable. ***UPDATE Shape Flex (SF 101) is what I use most often now. It bends nicely with the fabric since it's woven. You can also use it in conjunction with Decor Bond or fusible fleece. (1) zipper--Mine is 7" The rule of thumb here is to have your exterior pouch length be 1.5" longer than your zipper. So in my case, the length is 8.5" so I used a 7" zipper. Trim the corners of the fusible interfacing to reduce bulk and fuse to the exterior of your pouch. Trim the ends of the zipper to where the little "stoppers" on the zipper are. Fold the 2"x4" piece of exterior fabric in half lengthwise and press. Open it back up and fold in one side to the crease you just made and press. Repeat for the other side. Fold again along the original center crease and press. Cut the skinny 4" strip in half to create two .5"x 2" pieces. Open up one piece and tuck one end of the zipper in. See what I'm doing? Sew about 1/8" away from the edge next to the zipper. You can try and use pins to hold the tab in place, but I found the piece to be so small that it's easier for me to hold it. Repeat for the other side. This side will be a bit trickier since you will have to unzip the zipper and hold the two free pieces together as they would be when the zipper is closed. Again, you can try to pin, but I get better results (i.e. less shifting) by just holding it. Trim the extra fabric away from the zipper tabs. You should end up with something like this. With your lining right side up, place your finished zipper on top and center it. This is easy to do on your cutting mat--use the ruler markings to make sure it's even on both sides. Place your interfaced exterior fabric right side down on top of the lining. See? Right sides together, sandwiching the zipper in between. There are other ways to attach the zipper to the fabric where you can actually see the zipper while sewing, but I like this method. If you want to do it another way, go for it! Pin in place. You can see in this picture, it looks as if the lining has shifted a bit, but it is just from the pining along the top. The top edge is straight with the exterior, interior, and zipper lined up. I'm not going to lie, this is the trickiest part. Put on your zipper foot, take a deep breath, and sew about 1/4" away from the top edge. You are essentially doing this Stevie Wonder style since you can't see the zipper, but you can feel it! The first 1/2" near the zipper pull is the hardest and you may have to tug on the end or push it through for a bit. Just go slow. Once you make it past the pull, it's really easy. I leave my pins in and sew over them. This, I have found, is critical to keep all three layers lined up. I have as yet to break a needle, but I have broken a few pins. I'd much rather risk a broken pin than bring out my seam ripper because my layers shifted. You should now have something like this. Use your iron to press the lining away from the zipper. Press the exterior fabric down too. To give the exterior a more finished look and to secure the lining from getting caught in the zipper, I top stitch the exterior about 1/8" away from edge near the zipper. I know I'm not using my zipper foot correctly here, but it worked so stop laughing! Truthfully, I'm never sure I'm using it correctly, I just do whatever works to get a zipper attached. Rules be damned! Now it's time to attach your other lining and exterior pieces. You do this the same way you did before only now you have some fabric attached to your zipper. No biggie! Repeat my previous instructions on pining the layers and sewing on the zipper. Remember to top stitch the exterior on the other side, we want your pouch to look pretty! It should look like this now. The next step is super important. Are you paying attention? Don't skip this part! If you've printed this out, highlight this part: OPEN UP THE STINKIN' ZIPPER! You will be cursing yourself and making best friends with your seam ripper if you forget that! We're going to pin the exterior and lining right sides together, but first, we need to sort of fold/smush the zipper toward the exterior. See how I'm pinching it? Pinch it into place where everything is lining up--you can see how the top edges of the exterior fabric would line up if I squeezed them together, right? Pin that little guy in place! Continue pinning around all the edges. UPDATE: You *can* do this step and have the zipper pushed toward the interior, I guess when I made this one I just found this way worked for me to keep things lined up. Since making this tutorial, I find myself always pushing the zipper teeth toward the lining instead. Maybe this pouch was a freak of nature, who knows! Feel free to experiment to find what works best for you! Here's what it looks like all pinned together. Starting in the middle of the lining, about 2" away from the corner, using a 5/8" seam allowance, sew a few stitches and back stitch. We are going to leave an opening in the lining so you need to secure the stitches so your pouch won't come apart when you turn it. I leave the pins in for this step too! When you sew past the zipper/tab area, you may have to pull or push a bit since there are so many layers, just go slow. When you reach the exterior fabric, I sew slightly less than 5/8", more like 1/2", so that the lining will be a tiny bit smaller than the exterior and fit better into the pouch when I turn it. You don't have to do this. You can sew with the same seam allowance around the entire pouch. **update--so you understand, sew very very close to the tab, but not through it. When you get back to the lining side, leave a 3" opening or so for you to turn your pouch. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of either side of the opeing! Trust me, I know this from experience. If you fail to backstitch this bad boy can come part on you--the turning process can be rough on stitches! Hi there! You will soon be pulling the entire pouch through that tiny hole! It's a bit like child birth. :) But first! Clip your corners! Careful, don't clip your stitches! Now push! he he! Push, pull, finangle, shimmey the exterior fabric through the open zipper and then through the hole in the lining. Keep going. It's a messy job. Whew! Now use something pointy, but not sharp, to push out the corners of the exterior fabric. Also use the tool to push out/up the finished ends of the zipper. Wrinkly, but lookin' good! Now iron the lining down a bit. Sew the lining hole shut. My raw edges naturally turned under once I turned it, but if yours don't, just fold them in and press then sew the opening shut. You can hand sew this closed if you care about seeing the stitching, but I don't. It's at the bottom of the pouch, a pouch that is meant to be used, so surely the stuff you put in it will hide the stitching, right? My thoughts exactly! Yay! Tuck the lining inside and...... you're done! See how pretty the ends are? Now, what to put inside?

When I started quilting, I had no idea how to do this. My knots would look so ghetto, lol. This may be a no-brainer to a lot of you seasoned sewers out there, but for all of you that’d like a…

Find details, along with resources, tips and tricks by clicking the underlined links below! Week 4 - Quilt Top Assembly Week 3 - Sewing Blocks Week 2 - Seam Allowance & Making Blocks How to Test Your Seam Allowance Week 1 - Cut Fabrics How to Cut WOF Strips How to Chose Fabrics for Getaway Getaway Quilt Along details: WHO: You, me and other quilters from around the world! WHAT: A four week Quilt Along; each week we'll complete a portion of the Getaway quilt pattern and by the end, we'll have a beautifully finished quilt top! Plus we'll share progress and cheer each other on along the way. It's a fun time. :) WHEN: June 10 - July 8 ; information will be saved on our website if you cannot participate at this particular time. WHERE: We'll be sharing weekly QAL content straight to your inbox, so if you're subscribed to this newsletter, you're good to go! You can share weekly progress photos to IG to enter to win prizes. You do not need social media to participate, but you do need a public IG account to enter to win prizes. WHY: Sewing with friends is FUN! Plus I'll be sharing lots of helpful tips for the Getaway pattern. How do I sign up? There's no official sign up. We'll be sending out links to content via this newsletter. You'll need to purchase either a PDF or Printed copy of the Getaway Quilt Pattern. FABRIC REQUIREMENTS KITS We have 6 different Getaway kits to choose from in our shop! Coloring Pages You can find PDF coloring pages here. Getaway is also on Prequilt (free digital coloring pages)!

It was about this time last year I took my third graders outside for a paper airplane competition. We had spent a half hour working in te...

Want to give your quilting some added texture and depth? Try machine quilting with 12 wt. thread! It's not difficult, but there are 5 secrets you must know.

a blog about fabric, patterns, quilting, toys, sewing, craft, travel and life in Australia

Learn all about sewing binding on a quilt with our in-depth hands-on tutorial. We'll show you how to calculate binding, make binding for a quilt, and how to finish binding!

Learn how to start hand stitching without a knot at the end of your thread creating a neater, smoother finish. You can use this for any hand stitching.

Zipper tabs are functional, plus add detail. Learn zipper anatomy and how to reduce a zipper by adding fabric tabs. Details you need to know when sewing.

There are many options when adding binding to your quilt....I have had a lot of success using a French Binding and here is the method I use. To begin I measure the perimeter of my quilt top and add 10 inches to that measurement...that will be the amount of binding I will need to cover the quilt top. I cut my strips 2.5 inches (from selvedge edge to selvedge edge)... Sew the strips together by placing two strips perpendicular to each other and right sides facing...draw a line from the top left corner to the lower right corner. Stitch on the drawn line....and trim away the excess fabric.... Stitch all strips end to end in the same manner. Once all the strips are stitched together - press lengthwise wrong sides together.... Open the strip up and... Take the top right hand corner of your binding strip and bring the corner down to meet the bottom of the strip... Fold the strip together again...this will become a pocket a little later. You will begin and end stitching at this point. I usually begin adding the binding to the quilt top about 1/3rd. of the way in on one side of the quilt. Place the raw edge of the binding strip to the raw edge of the quilt top... Begin sewing (1/4 inch seam allowance) with the binding open. Mark with a pin 1 inch past where the bottom of the folded corner meets the binding strip. Stitch from the top of the binding to the pin - which is marking the 1 inch mark. Now fold the binding together again and begin stitching again at the point where you ended stitching at the 1 inch mark.... Now you have created the pocket where the end of the quilt will be tucked in! Continue stitching until you are a 1/4 inch from the corner of the quilt...then stop and take the quilt out of the machine. Fold the binding straight up.... Then fold the binding back down. Start stitching again a scant 1/4 inch from the corner. Now the binding will be added to the next side of the quilt. Repeat this for all four corners of the quilt. Once the 4th corner is complete....and you are nearing the pocket ( beginning of the binding)...line the remainder of the binding up with the point where you began stitching the binding (both layers of binding).... Cut the excess tail of binding to this point....now slip the tail into the pocket... Stitch from the where you stopped to the point where the binding is stitched together with both layers....fold the binding over to the back of the quilt and stitch by hand. I hope this is clear...and helpful....just drop me a line if you have any questions :) Mary

This quilt tying tutorial shows how to tie a quilt with yarn or embroidery thread. Quilt ties is an easy and fast way to finish a quilt.

All batting is not alike, and it can make or break your final quilt. Never get the wrong one again and bring this resourceful, pocket-sized guide to batting with you to the store! Small but mighty, Know Your Battings will help you choose appropriate batting, use it correctly, and avoid common mistakes so you end up with a perfect quilt every time! Containing over 50 pages of terminology definitions and charts listing retailer batting names, finishes, roll widths, stitch spaces, recommended quilting comments, and so much more, you won’t want to start another project without this guide! Author Krista Moser is a professional machine quilter, pattern designer, quilt maker, and instructor, and offers classes, tutorials, and patterns on The Quilted Life via her website www.kristamoser.com.

When you’re working with lightweight fabrics, a French seam is often the finish of choice. But if there’s a side-seam vent, you need a way to neatly end the seam…

I’ve been asked how to do this by a few people so I thought it was about time I took a few pictures and made up a tutorial. Overlockers are great for seams, especially on knits, but if you don’t secure your threads, they can come undone. There are a few different ways of doing...Read More »

Here is a helpful technique from Beth Ann Doing for self-binding a quilt. Binding a quilt is something quilters either love or hate. Personally, I like it because it means my piece is almost done…