Our ribbon embroidery festival this month is continuing! After learning the basics of ribbon embroidery, how to start and end the ribbon when you work it, it is time to practice some basic stitches. In fact, some stitches you already know from hand embroidery and have probably already done them with thread. Actually, quite a lot of surface embroidery stitches can be worked with ribbons of smaller width because the scale of the material is similar. But when it comes to bigger and wider ribbons, replicating the hand embroidery stitches becomes impossible save for a few. Also, there are some exclusive stitches, moves, and techniques which are possible to work only with ribbons. We will take a look at a few today and later you will learn more during our festival. Lastly, we will practice few stitches working a pretty little flower :) Straight stitch Let's start with the most basic stitch. It's a straight stitch and we work it by coming up through the fabric at the beginning point of the stitch and then inserting the needle at the point where the stitch ends. Usually, because of the ribbon's width, these stitches will have sharp corners at the beginning and ending points, so it already looks like a petal. You can raise the stitch a little to give it more volume. Like that the stitch becomes more dimensional and doesn't have a sharp corner at the end. Ribbon stitch This one is ribbon exclusive. And one of my favorite! So, you come up to the front of the fabric at the beginning point, lay the ribbon down and pierce it where the stitch is supposed to end. When you pull the ribbon through, the stitch will have these nicely folded edges. My stitch has a sharp corner at the end, but, in fact, it won't necessarily look like that. It can have softer, rounder form at the end. Also, you can change the place of piercing the stitch – to the left side, or to the right side, and then the folding will be more intensive on one side. You can achieve many various looks with this stitch, it is very versatile, so make sure to try it out! Looped stitch Another quite dimensional stitch. Start the stitch by bringing the ribbon to the surface of the fabric at the beginning point and then inserting the needle close to the starting point, right behind/in front of it. This one fits softer ribbons better. I'm showing in satin ribbon like for other stitches, but satin ribbon is just a tad bit more rigid than silk so the stitch stands upright, haha. If you use silk ribbon or a softer satin ribbon, it will lay flat on the surface of the fabric. But even if you only have a satin ribbon you can still make it work if you anchor it with a discreet stitch in thread of the same color, attaching it to the fabric. Lazy daisy Yes yes, this is the ribbon cousin of our beloved lazy daisy stitch. If you're using a narrow ribbon, you can work it exactly like the one we make in thread. However, for bigger ribbons, some adjustments need to be arranged. To be more precise, we need a thread to make the anchoring stitch. You can take the thread in the same color as the ribbon, to make it less evident, or use a complimentary/contrasting color to boost the visual. So what we do, is start the stitch at the beginning point and insert the needle next to it, to the right or to the left side. As you pull the ribbon and give the stitch its desired length and form, take another needle and thread to make the anchoring stitch. So here's how it looks. You can vary the length and the thread color, so it can actually have many different appearances. Twisted stem Naturally, this stitch is not limited only to working flower stems, but still the most common way of using it is for stems and twigs. After you bring the ribbon to the front side of the fabric, start twisting the ribbon on itself. Then insert the needle at the ending point of the stitch. Thanks to the twisting, more often than not, your stitch will bend or curve in some way, which also looks pretty natural for stems. If you want to give it some special form or curve you can use thread to make dsicreet stitches that will hold it in the place and form you need. Practice flower Now, how about working a little flower to practice ribbon embroidery? I couldn't help but use my favorite stitches here, but you can use any stitch you want. Actually, to practice more seriously, I believe it is better to make flowers with each of described above stitches. This way you will get more used to ribbon as your material and will understand its behavior better. For this flower, I used 2 satin ribbons and one organza (the yellow one). The green ribbon is 12 mm, the red one is 25 mm, the yellow one is 4 mm. And the whole flower will take you 10-15 minutes to work. 5 minutes if you already got used to ribbons. As you see from the first picture, the stem didn't want to keep the curve, so I fixed it with a couple of hidden stitches in thread of the same color. They need to be very small to stay hidden though, be careful. And yes, that's a french knot worked in ribbon! You can do that easily with narrow ribbons. The wider ones will present more struggle, but if necessary, it is still possible. Just don't hurry when you do the knots, they require some patience. So, now you know some basic stitches for ribbon embroidery which is quite enough to get you started. Practice, make yourself accustomed to the new material and we will continue our festival in the next post! Stay tuned :)

I have found that there are several different techniques and stitches in silk ribbon embroidery that are common to creating many different flowers, baskets, etc. Therefore, I have created a guide for distribution to my students during my silk ribbon classes. Why not share it? So, here you are...if you are needing just some basic guidelines...that are free...you are welcome to print the guide out. You are also welcome to save a copy of the pdf formatted file on your computer. What you are not allowed to do is SALE or ALTER the guide in any way. Teachers are welcome to copy the guide for use in their own silk ribbon classes. No need for special permission, as I have just given that to you and the copyright on each page indicates it is mine. The illustrations are in color, but the guide prints just fine for black/white too. Please do not pass these illustrations and instructions off as your own...they took me days to draw and get written. (Sadly, there are folks who think this is okay...so I have to say this.) And...while I would appreciate you're sharing about my blog...it is not required that you do that in order to use the guide. Follow this link to download the Adobe PDF File: LINK Please let me know if you enjoy it...and perhaps there will be enough incentive to create more freebies like this one. Hugs, Kathy

Ready for the first part of the Stitch Along?? I'm thrilled! Let's get it! Foreword Whenever I start an important piece of embroidery, I experience a short period of anxiety and nervousness. This time, after transferring the pattern, gathering all the materials around me and setting everything up, I was still so anxious that I had to go and have tea with something sweet before I made the first stitch. In case you are going through something similar, let's all let go of the pressure together. Take a deep breath and remember few things: None if us is Trish Burr. Our end results will inevitably look different from the original work, and that's normal. More than that, if you already took the time to check out the instructions and the pattern, you know that they leave plenty of space for personal interpretation and imporovisation. The needlepainting in this design is often done in “patches” of colors, but the areas and exact choice of thread are not marked on the pattern – you need to figure it out yourself by looking closely at the pictures of the original. Another thing I would like you to remember is that I am only showing my process of working it (and I am not Trish Burr, either) which is already a bit different form the origianl (inevitably). You don't have to follow my way of working it with precision. You can, however, take my insight into consideration and adjust the things to how you see them. Lastly, I would like to tell you that 66 people applied for the Stitch Along and everyone has different level of skills, from beginners to seasoned needlepainters. So, when we share the results we are likely to see a lot of diversity, which I think is great! My place will be in the middle between these two groups, as I am not a beginner, but this is only my second time working Trish Burr's design (first was Pansies), and first time working a needlepainting design of this scale. Hope everyone will get enough space to practice their skills, and by the end of the project will learn something new :) Schedule Our schedule will be as follows: Part 1 (May 21): Branch + Stems Part 2 (May 28): Green leaves 1 Part 3 (June 4): Green leaves 2 Part 4 (June 11): Flower Part 5 (June 18): Red leaves and last touches. So, shall we start now?? Branch and stems Every area here is worked using 1 strand of floss. First, let's work the right part of the branch. For this, you need to know stem stitch, back stitch, and satin stitch. 1. Work a row of stem stitch along the bottom line of the branch in thread K, going upwards. 2. When you reach the top turn around and work one more row in stem stitch, close to the previous one. This time, switch the position of your needle – if as you went upwards your needle emerged from above the previous stitch, now make it appear from below the previous stitch. (More on that here: 6 faces of stem stitch) 3. When you reach the bottom, start outlining the edge of the branch with back stitch, filling in the small dark spaces scattered there using satin stitch. They are not marked on the pattern, so you have to check closely the original or my example – I will leave a more detailed picture below. 4. Next, fill the empty space with the rows of stem stitching using thread J, I and H. Going from the darker one to the lighter one. I also used threads J and K to make some random scratches. Just simple straight stitches here and there in a random order. 1. Please note, that I turned my embroidery upside down here because it is easier for me to work it this way. So we start with satin stitch in thread K, leaving random gaps here and there and especially in the part closer to the leaf. (I didn't use any outlining here) 2. Throwing in thread J randomly here and there. Just straight stitches. 3. Now adding the lightest one, thread H. 4. Sometimes the stitches are not full length – you can make a half stitch piercing right through the one below. 1. I don't know how to call this part of the flower, somebody help me. 😅 Anyway, there are little shadows in the right parts of the areas worked with thread K and J and the green part is worked in M. Stem stitch everywhere. 2. The highlight is worked in thread A, again in stem stitch. 3. For the stems, the shadows are worked in stem stitch, thread J. 4. And the rest – randomly used threads L, M and O. I didn't really use N for the stems, but rather for the leaves veins later. But do as you like! I think you can use any of the colors in any order here :) Here are the stems in the end: I might actually add some finishing touches later with thread N. That's all for today! How was that? I know some of you will finish this part quickly, but others don't have much free time, so I think this is a nice dose of stitching for a week :) Looking forward to seeing your results! Make sure to share your impressions and progress below in the comments section, send me a letter or post it on Instagram. I started hashtag #magnoliastitchalong so use it to show your work (also tag me so that I don't miss it)! Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5

Be inspired to up your embroidery skills with these 10 amazing embroidery designs! Whether you’re an expert or beginner, you can’t deny the craftsmanship in these embroidery designs.

Let's continue learning how to stitch dimensional flowers! This time we will take a look at cast-on stitch and how to use it to work pretty floral motifs. First of all, cast-on stitch is quite similar to bullion knot both in way of working (well, just to some extent) and in ways of using. So, if you don't know yet what is a bullion knot and how to work it, I recommend checking the linked post. By the way, choosing a needle is one more reason why cast-on stitch and bullion knot can be considered distant cousins. As you know, bullion knot requires using Milliners needle, or a needle remotely similar (yes, there are suitable ones, I've used some) with a long thin shaft and narrow eye. The same goes for cast-on stitch. Although the loops aren't wrapped around the shaft as tightly as in the case with bullion knot, still, Milliners needle or its substitutes will serve greatly to make the process as smooth as possible. Today we will learn how to work cast-on stitch and see two ways of making flowers with its help. Cast-on stitch tutorial So, first, you need to make a stitch from one point to another, the distance between these points determining the length of the stitch. Then bring the needle up in the same hole from where it first emerged (or the one next to it if it is hard to bring the needle up without catching the thread with your needle's tip). Actually, in some tutorials, you will see the needle lying on the surface of the fabric, but I find it easier when it stands upright. Now the trickiest part of the whole process. Making a loop. For that, bring your finger under the working thread and then make a rolling motion, bringing the fingertip down. When you do that, the working thread stays wrapped around the finger, forming the loop. Unfortunately, I couldn't take the picture of the movement as one of the hands was occupied by the camera. But here is a nice youtube tutorial: video tutorial. Basically, this is the essential part of the process. If your cast-on stitch doesn't work, you might be doing something wrong in this step. So be careful! 1. The loop around your finger will look like that. Look closely how the thread crosses there. 2. Now slide the loop down the needle's shaft. 3. Pull the thread, so that the loop sits on the shaft comfortable and cozy. 4. Then add as many loops as you need on top of each other. The number of loops can be different, depending on the shape of the final stitch you want to achieve. Fortunately, if you work the stitch with the needle standing upright – you don't really need to count the loops. Just bend the needle down a little and compare if it fits the length of the stitch. The more loops you cast on the needle, the more arched will be the stitch. 5. When you decide that the number of loops is enough, pull the needle through them. 6. And anchor your stitch at the ending point of the stitch. Here is the final look of the cast-on stitch. A couple of tips: In step 4 you can notice the forming of a rib, which is also most likely to start spiraling. This is not very good. I mean, it is not really harmful for the stitch per se, but if you pull the thread before adjusting the rib in one straight line, you will have some trouble with fixing the stitch and giving it a proper look. So, remember: before pulling the needle through, adjust the loops so that the rib is one straight line. You might notice that sometimes the rib of the cast-on stitch is a little wavy, and sometimes it is absolutely even. The “wavy” thingy happens when some loops have a larger gap between each other than the other ones. I caught an example so look at the picture below. This gap makes results in the “wave”. If you don't want any waves you need to adjust every loop, making sure all of them sit evenly on the shaft. And if you like this wavy effect, you can allow yourself to be sloppier when casting the loops and not mind the difference in the gaps. The arrow shows you the gap between the stitches that results in a little wave in the final stitch. Also, note how the rib forms a straight line here. Now, if you cut the distance between the starting and ending points of the stitch but keep the higher number of loops... You will get a very arched tiny stitch. Doesn't it remind you of a flower petal? Add a couple more and get a pretty flower :) Cast-on stitch rose And now the star of this post: the gorgeous cast-on stitch rose! 1. Outline the shape of your future rose and divide the circle into 5 parts. The first stitch will start at the point 1 and end at point 3. Note that you need to skip one point! 2. The next stitch, or petal, starts at point 2 and ends at point 4. Note that the start of the stitch is situated inside the curve of the previous stitch, somewhere in the middle of it. 3. The last petal starts at point 5 and ends at point 1, behind the first stitch. If needed, you can bend the first stitch a little to open more space. 4. For the next “level” you can use 4 points like the ends of a square. Again, as you stitch, skip one point every time, and start the petals in the middle of the curve of the previous one. 5. The four points strategy creates a very pretty spiral! 6. You can fill the small space in the center with tiny arcs of cast-on stitch, like I demonstrated before. That's all! Hope you enjoyed and will try to incorporate this stitch in your next project :) And we are going to learn one more stitch for a dimensional flower this week. I wonder if you can guess which one? 🤔

Laid work is a great way of quickly creating a solid fill for a large area of your embroidery. Read on for tips and inspiration.

The Peking Knot is a traditional Chinese embroidery stitch not often used in modern embroidery. This simple stitch creates a … Read More

Colonial knots are so versatile and I use them a lot in my embroidery. They look great in clusters of knots. But at the same time can add delicate details as single knots to all type of designs such as flower centres or to dot your I’s. Finishing and securing your Colonial Knot. If you

Today's tutorial is VERY beginners-friendly! So if you are still a little nervous to take up stitching, this little project would be a great start :) It is also not tied up to a pattern. On the contrary, you can build this starry sky yourself in a way that you like the most. Or use any of these stars as a doodley motif in another project. And if you are a beginner and want to know the basics first, you can start with the following posts: how to start thread, how to end thread and others in the “Guide to embroidery” tag! And without further ado, let's start. There will be lots of pictures ahead! So, the first star is this easy 5-point star. I quickly doodled it up on the fabric with a chalk pencil. And to work it you just need to make straight stitches for all of the edges. As easy as it can be. And it looks kind of cute, doesn't it? :) Now, if you want to fill it in, you can do that with parallel stitches slanted in the same angle as one of the edges. You can place these stitches as densely as you want. In my case, I decided to take it easy and leave some space between them. If you want to add an extra “tail” to the star to show that it is moving, you can use one of the line stitches to do that. I used split back stitch here when you come up through the fabric a step down the line and then insert the needle in the previous stitch. Alternative stitches that you can use for these lines: stem stitch, back stitch and regular split stitch. At the end of the tail, the lines interrupt so you can leave some space between these tiny stitches. I'm actually still moving in a “back stitch” way here, moving backward, but you can work it as a running stitch. Falling stars, falling stars everywhere. And we have a rising star! :) Another easy way to stitch a pentagonal star is to make longer stitches connecting the five points. The finished one! There are also 4-pointed stars with soft, bending sides. They are easy to work too, we just need to use fly stitch technique. Make a stitch at one of the peaks and end it in another peak, then come up through the fabric in between these two points while tucking the working end of the thread under the needle tip. Pull the needle through and anchor the stitch. Repeat for the other sides to get a star like this :) Now, a criss-cross star! Make a vertical stitch, cross it with a horizontal one, and then add two diagonal stitches. Doesn't it remind you of the northern star? In fact, you don't have to make the first two stitches so long, If you make all of the stitches approximately the same length, it will look very cute too! Lastly, you may want to add just little dot-like stars, which are also a very pretty way to work starry skies. For that, you can use french knots. For a very small dot use 1 strand of thread and 1 wrap around the needle. For bigger knots, you can make 2 wraps (3 wraps is usually too much), and the more strands you use, the more dimensional will be the knots. And if you want to create a scattering of little stars, use seed stitch. You can grab even just 1 fiber of fabric with your thread if you want to make these little guys extra tiny. And that's about that! Now you can make your own starry sky using these tutorials. Isn't that one of the easiest ways to make a decorative hoop for your home? :)

A pamphlet of one hundred embroidery stitches

Chain stitch embroidery examples and how-to’s! You'll love these simple ideas to try it out and the full designs too.

If you’re a hand embroiderer, a quilter, a textile artist, or a crafter, you’ve probably run into situations where you could add words, text, and lettering to your projects. Hand embroidery is an excellent way to personalize gifts, household objects, momentos, quilts, journal covers – just about anything! Writing with your needle and thread can ...

Couching is the process of using embroidery stitches to stitch a cord (or yarn or decorative thread) to the surface of your fabric. It's a fun way to add some nice dimension to your work and it can give you a really unique effect. Give it a try! If you want to couch using your

Working the chin on my little red fox is proving a little difficult! Find out why, and have a look at my progress on this little guy.

Are you familiar with turkey work? Turkey work, also known as ghiordes knot, is an embroidery technique that can be used to created a fluffy piled clump (for lack of a better word!) anywhere you want one on your embroidery. The technique is used a lot in stumpwork, but it can also be used in ...

And here is one more stitch you can use for working dimensional flowers! It probably will be the last stitch in the series of “dimensional flowers” tutorials. If you missed any of the previous ones, you can catch up in the links below: Spider web rose + ribbed spider web stitch Looped blanket stitch rose + Turkey stitch flower Cast-on stitch rose Naturally, there are many more techniques and stitches but I guess it is already enough for working a simple but pretty bouquet or a filed of realistic wildflowers. Maybe we can even work something together someday :) But first, let's finish our series by learning woven picot stitch. Woven Picot tutorial 1. To work this stitch you will need a sewing pin. Insert it in the fabric so that the bit of the fabric it picks up corresponds to the place and height of the future stitch. Then come up through the fabric at the starting point to the side of the pin. Pass the working thread behind the pin and end the stitch on the other side of the pin. 2. Bring the needle up again, this time closer to the pin's shaft, as close to the middle between the previous two points as possible. And pass the working thread behind the pin again. 3. Now we start weaving motions. Slide the needle under the first string, over the second one, and under the third one. 4. Next time, needle goes over-under-over. Keep changing the motions of weaving when you move from one side to the other. 5. Make sure the horizontal rows of the interlacing are placed evenly with no gaps and holes. 6. As you reach the bottom, finish your picot by inserting the needle back in the fabric. When your picot is complete, remove the pin. At first, your picot might be standing upright, but you can adjust it the way you want. You can even anchor it to the fabric, using the little loop that stays on top after the pin is taken out. You can also achieve other appearance with this stitch. For example, a narrow base + a longer body + pulling the thread tighter at the top when weaving... ... can result in a longer and sharper-tipped shape. Here is an example of a simple flower with woven picot-worked petals. Only after working it, have I realized that it reminds me of water lily, haha. I didn't really have any certain plant in my mind when I worked it, it was just for practice :) So, now you have quite a bunch of techniques for making dimensional flowers. Hope you include some of these in your next project!

Today's tutorial is VERY beginners-friendly! So if you are still a little nervous to take up stitching, this little project would be a great start :) It is also not tied up to a pattern. On the contrary, you can build this starry sky yourself in a way that you like the most. Or use any of these stars as a doodley motif in another project. And if you are a beginner and want to know the basics first, you can start with the following posts: how to start thread, how to end thread and others in the “Guide to embroidery” tag! And without further ado, let's start. There will be lots of pictures ahead! So, the first star is this easy 5-point star. I quickly doodled it up on the fabric with a chalk pencil. And to work it you just need to make straight stitches for all of the edges. As easy as it can be. And it looks kind of cute, doesn't it? :) Now, if you want to fill it in, you can do that with parallel stitches slanted in the same angle as one of the edges. You can place these stitches as densely as you want. In my case, I decided to take it easy and leave some space between them. If you want to add an extra “tail” to the star to show that it is moving, you can use one of the line stitches to do that. I used split back stitch here when you come up through the fabric a step down the line and then insert the needle in the previous stitch. Alternative stitches that you can use for these lines: stem stitch, back stitch and regular split stitch. At the end of the tail, the lines interrupt so you can leave some space between these tiny stitches. I'm actually still moving in a “back stitch” way here, moving backward, but you can work it as a running stitch. Falling stars, falling stars everywhere. And we have a rising star! :) Another easy way to stitch a pentagonal star is to make longer stitches connecting the five points. The finished one! There are also 4-pointed stars with soft, bending sides. They are easy to work too, we just need to use fly stitch technique. Make a stitch at one of the peaks and end it in another peak, then come up through the fabric in between these two points while tucking the working end of the thread under the needle tip. Pull the needle through and anchor the stitch. Repeat for the other sides to get a star like this :) Now, a criss-cross star! Make a vertical stitch, cross it with a horizontal one, and then add two diagonal stitches. Doesn't it remind you of the northern star? In fact, you don't have to make the first two stitches so long, If you make all of the stitches approximately the same length, it will look very cute too! Lastly, you may want to add just little dot-like stars, which are also a very pretty way to work starry skies. For that, you can use french knots. For a very small dot use 1 strand of thread and 1 wrap around the needle. For bigger knots, you can make 2 wraps (3 wraps is usually too much), and the more strands you use, the more dimensional will be the knots. And if you want to create a scattering of little stars, use seed stitch. You can grab even just 1 fiber of fabric with your thread if you want to make these little guys extra tiny. And that's about that! Now you can make your own starry sky using these tutorials. Isn't that one of the easiest ways to make a decorative hoop for your home? :)

I love ombre. Whether it’s on a dress, or on a wall, I just love the effect. And for a while now I’ve been mulling over the idea of creating an ombre embroidery sampler. (I should add h…

Also known as: bullion stitch, caterpillar stitch, coil stitch, knot stitch, post stitch, worm stitch, Puerto Rico rose, grub knot This is an interesting stitch used to make simple motifs. I would say that this is an ‘elongated’ knot which can be...

A simple, step-by-step tutorial for satin stitch. This common stitch used for filling shapes adds big splashes of color and the end result is a shiny, smooth raised surface that looks like satin.

Stem Stitch is my favorite hand embroidery stitch, because it is so versatile and so attractive. The poor stem stitch doesn’t get the attention it is due, in my opinion – most folks tend to stitch lines today using backstitch, running stitch, and chain stitch, more than they do with stem stitch. But stem stitch ...

Check out this list of embroidery stitches that work great for filling areas. From the obvious satin stitch or chain stitch to more unique stitches.

Learn how to do fell stitch to stitch the edges of applique, jacket linings, and ribbons. This simple felling stitch gives a strong edge.

This tutorial shows you how to make a cute stumpwork snail. Stumpwork is an embroidery technique where the design is raised, which would add nice texture to your work.

Years ago, I wrote a series of articles on hand embroidered writing. The articles take you step-by-step through different embroidery stitches that work well for embroidered writing. Today, we’re going to add a stitch to that list – particularly, a stitch known today as the “Quaker Stitch” because it was formulated to work as the ...

Chain stitch is a must-have in your embroidery vocabulary! These valuable tips will show you the way to work curves and corners, join the ends and save the thread as you chain stitch.

In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to embroider a bee. Using 3 basic stitches, you can make a cute and simple bumble bee. You could even add a few running stitches to trail behind...

How are you enjoying your time without buzzers and beepers in your hands? Mighty relaxing, isn't it? Now maybe you're remembering ...

This type of pattern darning will give you an equally good reverse side, if not the same. It is used on fabrics that are used on both sides, like towels and napkins. Here we have to be careful about how to choose the pattern and go about...

Let's have a look at the different ways this beautiful technique is taught. With a look at Tanja Berlin's technique through online learning, the RSN Certificate method, and finally, Jan Kerton from Windflower Embroidery.

Milliners needles, also known as straw needles, are a specialized type of sewing needle designed for specific needlework tasks, such as millinery work, pleating, and ribbon embroidery. These needles are characterized by their long, slender body, round eye, and sharp point, which allow for smooth and precise stitching on various materials. Available in a range of sizes, milliners needles accommodate the diverse needs of needleworkers and cater to a variety of projects. The elongated shape of milliners needles is particularly suited for tasks that require multiple thread wraps, such as creating loops or knots. This design feature allows the needle to pass smoothly through the wrapped threads without snagging or distortion. Additionally, the round eye of the needle easily accommodates a range of thread types and sizes, providing versatility in project applications. The sharp point of milliners needles ensures clean penetration of fabric and other materials, making them suitable for working with a wide array of textiles, including silk, cotton, and synthetic fabrics. This precision makes milliners needles an ideal choice for delicate work and detailed stitching, where accuracy and finesse are paramount. When selecting these needles, it is essential to consider the fabric and thread types being used, as well as the specific techniques being employed. Smaller needles are better suited for fine materials and delicate work, while larger needles are more appropriate for thicker fabrics and heavier threads.

The chain stitch is a versatile hand embroidery stitch that can be used to outline and to fill spaces. It’s a fun stitch to work, and always looks great! The chain stitch is probably one of the most common embroidery stitches, and adapted to all different techniques, even lace making. The chain stitch works very ...

Embroidery pattern with step-by-step photo tutorial. If you do not require a full guide and just want the pattern to trace, please visit my Instagram @needlessdesigns . :) [ About ] This is a digital PDF embroidery pattern that will teach you 14 beginner embroidery stitches that are very commonly used in the art of embroidery. Once done, you can keep the piece as a reference guide for your future embroidery projects. :) PDF comes with photo guides and detailed steps to guide you in the right direction. Project teaches a variety of different beginner friendly embroidery stitches and their common uses. Perfect for those looking to learn embroidery! [ Recommendations ] Recommended for beginners who want to get into the hobby of embroidery. Recommended minimum hoop size is 6.7 inches (17 cm). [ PDF Includes.. ] - List of materials - Tips on how to transfer pattern - Both normal and mirrored versions of pattern - Explanation of each stitch and when to use them (with examples) - Stitching legend and photo guides to follow [ Policy ] There will be no refunds, exchanges, or cancellations as this is an instant digital download. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me. :) You can follow me on Instagram at @needlessdesigns for any future patterns and updates! Remember, you can find help and resources online and on Youtube if you need help getting started. Thank you! :) The original beginner embroidery sampler guide as seen on Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/Embroidery/comments/min3of/i_made_a_little_reference_piece_for_my_future/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3