The way to create the "Reverb" effect can be divided into two types: mechanical and electronic, depending on the operation principle. The first and at the same

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There are a host of Big Muff clones and variation, but one of the most sought after clones is the Ibanez OD-850. Like all vintage Ibanez pedals, the OD-850 is just a rehoused and rebadged Maxon design–in this case, the D&S OD-801. While this shares a lot in common with a Ram's Head BMP, it differs greatly in the tone section. Here's Kit Rae's description: Maxon opted to alter the tone stack for this clone, fixing the bass value across the tone pot sweep... The whole high pass and low pass tone section is incorporated into the recovery stage. What this did was to make the bass and treble sides have a more useful range of sounds. The treble side retains some bass across the sweep, so it is not as ear piercing and trebly as a standard BMP when dialed completely to the treble side, nor do the highs seem to be completely removed when dialed fully to the bass side. It kind of makes finding the 'sweet spot' a bit different sounding than the traditional BMP tone stack, but that is what makes this version unique. I've laid this out for more common CBE pinout transistors, where as the C828s of the originals are BCE. This follows the first version released in 1974, and will fit in a 1590B with board mounted pots. Here's the schematic for reference.

The Brassmaster was originally designed for bass and also picked up by guitarists. The circuit is very unique and originals are hard to come by. I was able to lay it out to fit in a 125B with board mounted pots.

I've seen a few designs out there that starve a tube filament to maintain a low voltage and still provide nice results. The Matsumin Valvecaster is one of them. For those afraid to work with tubes due to high voltage (cue Electric Six, "Danger! High Voltage!"), this keeps the power at safer levels. It also allows a 9v battery to be used (or 12V) but will consume them fairly quickly... so an AC adapter is recommended. The design is nice and simple, and for beginning builders it's not too hard to follow the circuit visually. There are a couple of variations floating around, so if you're looking at multiple schematics or diagrams, be aware that they aren't all the same. Other builders have created their own unique pedals based on this design, but the values of the parts are different, so again, be aware ;) Matsumin Valvecaster schematic from hgamps My favorite diagram/illustration was from David Smith. The input and output jacks are included as well as the 3PDT switch to bypass the circuit. David's illustration is intended for a turret board, but if you prefer point to point it's still easy to follow. Be sure to note the orientation of the 3PDT switch, it won't work if it's oriented differently (i.e. twisted 90 degrees). David Smith's diagram offers an easy-to-follow layout Here's another diagram from Stompboxed, it's a little harder to follow but still helpful. Another diagram for reference. You'll probably want to use one of the larger Hammond 1590BB (or Hammond-style) chassis as I don't think trying to shoehorn this into a 1590B would be terribly easy. The 1590BB is available from the usual suspects, Mouser, Digikey, etc. in a variety of powdercoated colors. You can also go to Mammoth Electronics and get some much cooler paintjobs for a few more bucks, or go crazy with some waterslide decals... the sky is the limit. For this project I went with a purple Hammond 1590BB ... you can almost taste the grape looking at it. These are cast aluminum, so you need to treat them a little more gently than something that's extruded (e.g. try to do more drilling on the drill press rather than punching holes). Punching out the holes with a tool can sometimes take away more metal than you anticipated. I used larger Alpha pots in this build as I had them in the work-bin. CTS, Bourns and PEC also make good pots, and if you want to check out surplus, Clarostat and Allen Bradley are also great choices. The ceramic 9 pin tube socket is set against the chassis with a rubber "o" ring which can help quash microphonics. It's overkill for this build, but I had it in the bin. Beltons are cheaper and work great as well. There is a corresponding PCB to be used with CNC tube socket as the solder tabs are quite small to solder accurately. These can be found on Ebay by searching for "9 pin PCB", and Partsconnexion also carries them. The Russian PIO caps are a little on the large side and have metal shells, so they need to be carefully placed so they don't short any leads. They can also be covered with heatshrink. PTFE (teflon) tubing is placed on bare leads to ensure they don't short either. Also space needs to be given to the open-frame Switchcraft 11 1/4" jacks so they don't bump into any parts or wires when being inserted. Using different colored wire during the wiring process can help you visually follow the circuit if it doesn't work upon plugging in for the first time. Having a rat's nest of the same colored wire makes things much more difficult. Valvecaster wired up point to point On top of the chassis a tube shield will be installed to protect the tube from an errant foot. You can find these in a number of anodized colors from Angela.com. I thought the gold looked nice contrasting against the purple. Top of the Valvecaster with Tube Shield off... ...and tube shield on Hope you enjoyed the build process of the Matsumin Valvecaster Effects Pedal. You can see it's pretty easy to build a great effects pedal without a PCB and just a few parts. Remember to use good quality parts like Switchcraft 1/4" jacks, Alpha or CTS potentiometers, etc. to ensure your new pedal lasts a good long while. Please remember that building/modifying circuits can be dangerous to you and/or your surroundings and should only be performed by a certified technician. The owner of this blog and all associated parties can not / will not be held responsible if you attempt a build or modification posted above and cause physical harm to yourself or your surroundings. Many electronics contain high voltages that can kill, and mods, if performed improperly, can be a fire hazard.

Here's a cool dirty reverb effect by Death by Audio. It uses a Belton brick like many other designs, and offers clean reverb with the gain control turned all the way down. But when you increase the gain, fuzz is infused to the signal. You can mount the Belton brick to the board from the solder-side (best to do this once the rest of the board has been populated). It'll probably be too tall with the brick to fit in a 1590B, but a 125B should work just fine.

Here's one from MXR you probably haven't heard of before. It was apart of their Commande line of plastic boxed effects from the late 80s. They aren't highly regarded because of the plastic, but the circuits were pretty well designed. The circuit in question today is a better design than the DynaComp, offering less distortion and more sustain. It does have a little less compression range than the DynaComp, but also less noise. (And really, who needs that much squish? haha) Couldn't find a demo of this one, but the schematic and discussion can be found here on FSB.

Switching it up this week and doing a Filter Friday. This one could be used for both synth and guitar/bass. It's a cool filter effect based around the LM13600/13700.

Stumbled across the schematic for this compressor and couldn't find a layout for it. So I drew it up. This follows the original red box version, not the black box reissue. It's an optical compressor and apparently fairly subtle. I couldn't find any info on the vactrol used in the original–sockets are your friend. Should be an easy fit in a 1590B.

It's New Years Eve and time for the last layout of 2019 and I'm pretty sure it's the 800th on the blog! So here's the Mostortion. Why is it called that? The CA3260E opamp at it's core is MOSFET based. Unfortunately, this chip has been discontinued, so building a straight clone may be a little difficult, but a regular dual opamp like a JRC4558 or TL072 will work just fine as well. It's pretty similar to a TS10, just with a MOSFET chip and 3-band EQ, which is pretty handy. Schematic and more info here. Should be able to squeeze it into a 1590B.

Here's a compressor design from MicTester. Here's what he had to say about it over on FSB: Do you remember the old-fashioned way of doing bass compression? It used an LDR across the volume control illuminated by an incandescent lamp across the speaker terminals! It was a simple method back in the 60s.... This compressor is almost that simple! It uses a handful of cheap components (I built one for £9 including hardware!), but works really well. Guitarists who've tried it often ask "Is it on?", but miss it when it's off! It's quiet, and has good "squeeze" without the gain-change artifacts you frequently get with transconductance amplifiers or FETs. The LDR should be ~1M in the dark, but almost anything will do. Some of the component values are quite carefully chosen. The input capacitor (15nF - made up of a 10 and a 4.7 if the 15 is unavailable) is chosen to give some frequency shaping, and the interstage capacitor prevents handling noise affecting the compression. Green LEDs are chosen because they most closely match the response of the LDR, but yellow works almost as well. Obviously, the LDR / LED combination should be facing each other, and must be in a light-tight enclosure. I've set up the board with pads for both 10nF and 4.7nF in parallel if you don't have a 15nF cap.

Create an awesome automatic phase pedal for your guitar effects using this 1977 guide from the magazine Everyday Electronics (December 1977 issue).

There are now 4 version of the OCD. The latest has a few guitarist I know wondering what was wrong with the last version, so if you're looking to go back to the original circuit, this layout is for you. The OCD one of the most respected overdrives out there. Derived from the Voodoo Drive, it uses two 2N7000 mosfets for clipping. I opted to make the tone pot offboard to allow a little more freedom with pot placement in the enclosure. Might not be a bad idea to use long leg pots for the Drive and Volume pots.

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Got a request for a flanger effect, and hadn't seen many layouts for the John Hollis Ultra Flanger (that didn't have tiny thin traces anyway), so I thought I'd give it a go. For the record: flangers are hard. I knew from the get go this one wouldn't fit in a 1590B, but it will fit nicely in a 1590BB. There's empty space at the top corners you can cut into to fit around the screw posts in the corners of the enclosure if you need to. Here's the schematic and here's what John had to say about the circuit: I was originally going to develop a minimum part count version of the EH Electric Mistress. Instead I went for a something with the versatility of an MXR flanger and the extra wide sweep that the A/DA flanger was known for. It needed an extra chip to get the wide sweep but it's worth it. Current consumption is very reasonable at around 2 to 8 milliamps dependent upon clock frequency. Update Aug. 3, 2016: Fixed the connections from the MN3007 to CD4049. Note jumper under CD4049.

The Faux Spring Reverb, like many pedal reverbs is based around a Belton reverb module. Originally it used the BTDR-1 (which is massive), but in this layout I've adapted it for the newer and smaller BTDR-2H. I've also simplified the power section a little, and used a TL071 for the second IC. In the original a TL072 was used, but only used half of it. Here's what Brian has to say about his design: The great thing about the Faux Spring Reverb is that it retains the Analog base tone, doesn’t send your signal through digital/analog converters and back again (wrecking your tone completely) allowing you to be as springy as you like without your sound becoming lifeless, dull and… well, bad. With the tone control, you can control your sound completely and have your reverb be as bright as day, or dark as night… As lively and bright as a small hall, or as deep as the biggest cathedrals. Edit: I realized this afternoon that the Depth pot would hit the Belton brick, so I've changed it to a 9mm pot and it will clear the brick. The whole thing will be really snug, but it should be doable.

Here's the Pitch Pirate with board mounted pots. Like the Deluxe version, the LFO is designed to be grounded when the effect is turned on (hence the pad at the top of the board). Just use the true-bypass wiring diagram in the General Layout Notes and leave out the LED wiring. Then just connect the corresponding pads on the board to the lugs of the switch. The on/off indicator LED (pads at the top of the board) is connected to the LFO ground so that will turn on and off (and show the rate) with the LFO. It'll fit just fine in a 125B with top mounted jacks, but will also fit in a 1590B if you wire the pots off board (or maybe with long leg pots mounted to the component side? YMMV).

Got a request for this one. It's a effects loop buffer that's a solid-state version of the Dumbleator effects loop buffer. It's equipped with an internal charge pump that converts a +9v supply to +33v. Very useful for keeping your effects loop free from signal-loss. Since it runs at a much higher voltage than most effects, make sure your components are rated at at least 50v. Also the 10Ω resistor off the +9v pad should be 1/2 watt or higher.

Last post of 2014. Happy New Year, everybody! Here's the early 80s DOD FX55 Distortion, without the original switching circuit so you can wire it for true bypass. The original used a TL062 dual op-amp, but the 2nd half of it wasn't in the signal path all, so I went with the single TL061. The off-board wiring pads aren't as neat as I'd like, but I wanted it to fit in a 1590a. You could fairly easily use this same layout to make the DOD FX50 overdrive with the following mods: • Change the 1k resistor to 4.7k • Change the 3.9M resistor to 1M • Place a 1n capacitor between lugs 1 and 3 on the Level pot

Here's a simple, fairly low parts count chorus based around a PT2399, designed by Rick Holt (aka Frequency Central) from the DIYStompboxes forum. I've drawn 2 versions, one with board-mounted pots, and one off-board pots. The 2nd IC (NE5532 in the layout) can be any dual op-amp (a TL072 works well), just socket and experiment. The board is fairly large, so you might want to use long leg right angle PCB mount pots and mount them from the component side to save space. Here's a quick sound sample.

Here's a really simple "transparent overdrive" circuit that was a must have a couple years ago. People compared it to the Klon and Timmy drives. Originals use paper in oil caps, which some claim sound better than modern film or ceramic caps. That's a debate for another time though. I've drawn it up so you can use big mojo caps, or with more common caps for a much smaller footprint. Both versions have a couple tweaks. In the mojo layout, I've added a pull down resistor after the gain pot to try and eliminate footswitch pop. In the smaller layout, I've added some optional clipping diodes (which I think really improve the sound of this thing), and power filtering and polarity protection.

I'm so excited to share with you my newest TPT product! I'll be teaching a human body class this upcoming semester at our local co-op. I needed a human body project for kids in my class that will allow them to organize and store the information we learn. I came up with this file folder

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Got several requests for this one. Basically, it's small preamp to plug into a mobile device for use with apps like iRig. Pretty simple circuit. Shouldn't be hard to fit in a 1590a or even smaller since you don't need to include a footswitch.

Got a request for this one. It's another Timmy knockoff with a couple extra low value caps and a weird resistor array leading to the Bass control.

Here's one of the most classic effects of all time, the Cry Baby wah-wah from Dunlop. The big red thing in the layout is the Fasel inductor, and there's room on the board for a pull down resistor at the input if you need it, I just didn't include it in the drawing. What else is there to say? Just build it!

Here's a weird one for you–the Shin Ei Octave Box. It's apparently an all analog clean octave down effect. I'm not going to pretend to understand how it works, but there are a lot of transistors. Originals used 2SC644 and 2SC666 transistors, which I think were in the massive TO-3 package. I've drawn the layout for more modern replacements, BC547s and a BC557. Other transistors like the 2N3904/06 or 2N5088/87 would probably work as well. Socket and experiment with what you have on hand.

Got a request for this one. It's an interesting variation of the Tube Screamer circuit, but with a lot of changes and modifications. There's an optional boost switch you can include if you like that's not apart of the original. If you don't want to include it, just don't populate the 270Ω resistor and 2.2uF connected to the Boost Switch 1 pad. Here's the schematic for reference.

Here's the Klon again. I wanted one with board mounted pots and for a smaller enclosure. You might be able to fit this in a 1590B with low profile jacks, but it will easily fit in a 125B. It's designed for 9mm PCB mount pots, though it might be difficult to find the dual-gang Gain pot. Look for Alpha part number RD902F-40-00. I've removed a few components that were apart of the stock bypass switching for the sake of space, so you'll want to use your true bypass method of choice with this one.

Here's another BJF designed circuit: the Sky Blue Overdrive. There are 4 controls: Z adjusts input impedance, Distort. controls gain, Texture adjusts the hard clipping, and finally the Volume. It uses 3mm LEDs in the feedback loop of the opamp, and then JFETs for hard clipping.

For Fuzz Friday, here's the original Fuzz War from Death by Audio. It's essentially 5 gain stages going into a Big Muff-esque tone stack, into a clipping stage and a final gain stage. Here's the schematic for reference. Original models have the Fuzz control as a trimmer internally, but I've laid that out as an external control for more versatility. Pots can be board mounted using right angle PCB mount pots and it should fit in a 1590B (though personally I'd put it in a 125B).