Make a pantograph drawing machine by combining science art and math in this awesome STEM project!

What are the best head drawing methods? Learn about the Loomis Method, the Reilly Abstraction and the Asaro Head and draw better heads faster!

How to make a trace monotype, without a press. This step by step guide outlines trace monotype printmaking techniques, with links to tutorial videos.

Lamassu svg, png, eps, dxf file formats Please note that these are digital files, not physical items. No refunds are issued for downloadable files. Upon purchase you'll be able to instantly download the zip folder that includes all of the above. I've tried to make it as easy as possible to navigate the folders once unzipped. The 4 file formats should allow you to use the designs with various CNC, printing, laser engraving, or other methods/machines etc. Your machine settings will vary, please test. You will need to unzip the file after downloading. Use WinRAR or any unzip app. THE TERMS OF USE Any sharing or selling of these digital files is NOT allowed. However, you are free to sell any finished physical products or items. So get creative and have fun! Please use a web browser (sign into Etsy) to download the files, the Etsy app doesn't allow file downloading

This method reduces the shoulder to match the back, but does not alter the width at the underarm. Draw a line parallel to the grain line down to the level of the front notch. Connect this to notch, ending at the stitching line. Mark the amount of reduction needed on the shoulder seam – point A.

Wrap skirts are great since you can make one that will be easily adjustable to a wide range of sizes. A wrap skirt is also one of the easiest kinds of skirts to make since it doesn't require special closures or elastic to keep it on. You...

A3 print off fine art pencil drawing of Holden VK Commodore "MISCHF" Street Machine . Original artwork completed on Fabriano Bristol smooth art paper with 1 Kuru Toga HB 0.5 mechanical pencil. Limited to 50 copies and hand numbered. Actual print pictured. All images are printed on 250gsm Silk finish white paper If there are any issues with an order, please contact direct to resolve these issues a quickly as possible. The artist/seller has no affiliation with any company, individual or their representative depicted in these images.

Put a fun twist on learning chemical symbols with this “color by chemical symbols” activity! Use it as a fun way to practice matching 20 chemical elements with their symbols, or as a quiz! It’s a great way for students to practice learning their chemical symbols. Students will use a color-coded key to match each element symbol to its name. They will locate each symbol, however many times it appears in the puzzle, and color it according to the key. The elements used in this puzzle are: ◌ Lithium ◌ Beryllium ◌ Boron ◌ Fluorine ◌ Neon ◌ Phosphorus ◌ Chlorine ◌ Argon ◌ Scandium ◌ Titanium ◌ Vanadium ◌ Chromium ◌ Manganese ◌ Cobalt ◌ Zinc ◌ Gallium ◌ Germanium ◌ Arsenic ◌ Selenium ◌ Bromine Need the other symbols? Check out the color by number by Utah Roots! ✰SAVE BIG with the BUNDLE✰ Color-by-Number: Element Names to Symbols BUNDLE This zip file contains PDF files only. If you are having problems opening this zip file, please take a look at this first (Zip File Help). If you are still having problems, don’t hesitate to e-mail me at [email protected]. ♥You Might Also LIKE♥ Color by Number - Element Names to Symbols #2 Color by Number - Element Names to Symbols #3 Science Tools Clip Art Science Tools Clip Art FREEBIE Science Tools Clip Art COLOR ONLY Science Tools Clip Art B&W ONLY Color-by-Number: Classifying Vertebrates Chemical Heart Match-up Game - FREEBIE How to get TPT credit to use on future purchases: Please go to your My Purchases page (you may need to login). Beside each purchase you'll see a Provide Feedback button. Simply click it and you will be taken to a page where you can give a quick rating and leave a short comment for the product. Each time you give feedback, TPT gives you feedback credits that you use to lower the cost of your future purchases. I value your feedback greatly as it helps me determine which products are most valuable for your classroom so I can create more for you. ☺ Connect with Science Girl Lessons Be sure to follow my TpT store by clicking on the green ‘Follow Me’ next to my Seller picture to receive notifications of my new products and upcoming sales. Terms of Use Copyright © Rebecca Valera. All rights reserved by author. This product is to be used by the original downloader only. Copying for more than one teacher, classroom, department, school, or school system is prohibited. This product may not be distributed or displayed digitally for public view. Failure to comply is a copyright infringement and a violation of the Digital Millennium Copyright Act (DMCA). Clip art and elements found in this PDF are copyrighted and cannot be extracted and used outside of this file without permission or license. Intended for classroom and personal use ONLY.

Pebble Passion Love making quilt tops but need help with the quilting?  Try Pebble Passion! This collection has you covered! The collection features 33 unique quilting designs. Choose from an assortment of blocks in multiple sizes. Add borders and sashing designs to finish your quilt.  Just follow these three steps to success: Step 1. Piece your quilt top. Step 2. Make a quilt sandwich. Step 3. Embroidery the quilt designs. Bind the quilt using your preferred method. All designs are available in multiple sizes! - This is a downloadable product, you will receive an email containing a link to download your designs.  Hoop requirements: 5" x 7" or 6" x 10" 33 Unique Designs 71 Total Designs Formats Available: ART, DST, EXP, HUS, JEF, PES, VIP, VP3

A couple of days ago I wrote that Katy, one of my internet friends, sent me a whole pile of needle threaders after I complained about having to sink the thread ends on some huge quilts. One of the comments to that post asked, "what do you mean by sinking the thread ends, and how does a needle threader help?" A good question! If you have begun or ended a line of machine stitching in the middle of your quilt, you have to deal with the two thread ends. Some people backstitch to secure the threads, or perhaps use very tiny stitches as they get to the end of the line, then cut the thread ends off right there. But I have seen too many such finishes that don't look finished at all. The scissors can't reach exactly to the surface of the quilt, so the thread ends stick up in little eyelashes. Or the backstitch didn't really secure the threads, so over time the quilting comes unsewed. I think it's much more professional to pull both ends to either the front or back of the quilt, tie them, thread them into a needle and make the threads disappear between the layers of the quilt. This is time-consuming, of course, even if your eyes are good enough to thread a needle without difficulty (mine aren't). I have used self-threading needles but they tend to shred rayon or shiny polyester thread. It's much easier to just use a needle threader. I should give a shout-out to Robbi Joy Eklow, another Quiltart list maven, who champions an alternative method of sinking thread ends. It really works, and I have used it on occasion but not enough to really get into the rhythm and internalize the method. I'll show you how it works (wish I could send you to Robbi's website, but I can't find this anywhere publicly posted) but as for me, I'm just so happy with all the needle threaders that Katy sent me last year, I'll probably stick with my own method forever. In either case, here's the tutorial: My method -- with needle threader step 1: Insert a needle into the quilt exactly where you want your thread ends to disappear. Run the needle between the layers of the quilt for about an inch, feeling from underneath to make sure the needle doesn't poke through on the back. Bring the needle up to the top of the quilt. step 2: Pop the needle threader through the eye of the needle. Arrange the thread ends underneath the wires of the needle threader. step 3: Using a tweezer, grab the thread ends and pull them up through the wires of the needle threader. Pull on the needle threader to get the thread ends through the eye of the needle. Pull the needle through the quilt to sink the thread ends. Clip off the thread ends where they emerge from the top of the quilt. You will cleverly notice that you could have threaded the needle before you ran it between the layers of the quilt. Yes, but what if your thread ends weren't long enough? We always try to leave plenty of thread when we start or stop, but sometimes things happen. This way you can pull the thread ends through the needle even if they're only a half-inch long. Robbi's method -- with needle and thread step 1: Cut a piece of thread about a foot long. Robbi suggests orange so you can keep that threaded needle in your pincushion forever and find it easily the next time you need to sink thread ends. Double the thread and thread both ends through the needle. Adjust the length of the ends so the loop is longer than the cut ends. step 2: Insert the needle exactly at the point where you want your thread ends to disappear. Run the needle through the layers of the quilt, feeling underneath to make sure the needle does not poke through on the bottom. Bring the needle up about an inch away. step 3: Pull the thread through until only a small loop is left. step 4: Pull the thread ends through the orange loop. step 5: Pull the orange thread, which will carry the thread ends through the layers of the quilt. Trim off the thread ends where they emerge from the top of the quilt.

Learn how to turn handwriting and drawings into an SVG file to make cute gifts on a laser machine or craft machine (Cricut or Silhouette).

I was thinking about what I can do to help all the beginners who are just taking up free-motion quilting right now. I decided to share a ...

There are so many quilts you can make with triangles, or rather triangle squares. I showed you a tutorial on how to make these with my pinwheel quilt, but here is a faster way. I

A trained painter, Cayce Zavaglia creates portraits from wool thread using an embroidery method she developed to mimic the effect of drawing and painting. Her realistic portraits nod to the mechanized precision of photography but also pay homage to handmade crafts with their tactile qualities. Because of her unique embroidery method, Zavaglia's portraits can be viewed as distinct artworks from either side. The clean portraits on the front sides appear fractured and abstracted from the back. Each piece takes about eight weeks to complete, and Zavaglia says that the backs of the portraits have inspired a forthcoming series of gouache paintings. Zavaglia currently has work up in the three-person show "String Theory" on view at Scott White Contemporary Art in La Jolla, CA through June 1. Take a look at some of Cayce Zavaglia's works after the jump.

Here are Zentangle's instructions for the tangle Paradox, from the February 2008 newsletter. Paradox is one of my favorite tangles and I seem to do it rather well. Perhaps those two things are related! :-) I've been asked about it occasionally, how did I do this or that. I thought about doing a video but that's just a bit more than I can take on right now. So I decided to post some tips and ideas here, and hope to make them clear enough. TIPS! TIP #1: The elegant curves show best if the lines are close together. See the difference. TIP #2: Agh! But what if you accidentally leave too much space between some lines? Simple! Just add a line or two between the ones that are too spacey, like this: Then again, never say never. I tried deliberately leaving wide spaces that I then filled with other tangles. You can see the results here. TIP #3: Paradox works best in triangles or squares. It's not bad in a pentagon but gets worse and worse as there are more and more sides. For one thing, the center deteriorates quickly as you move in. Besides, drawing a fairly regular shape with more than four sides, freehand, is quite a challenge. Stick with squares and triangles. TIP #4: There are two looks that can be achieved with Paradox. In my classes I call them "Fans" and "Twists". Here they are: Paradox is essentially a square or triangular spiral. These two effects are obtained depending on which direction you send your spirals. TWISTS: Regardless of whether you spiral clockwise or counter-clockwise, if you spiral in the same direction in every section you'll end up with twists. FANS: To get the fans you need to spiral in the opposite direction from section to section. Starting with squares Starting with triangles If you prefer to be less technical and more intuitive, you can look at what's happening in the section adjacent to the one you want to work in, and note where the lines need to converge and where they need to splay out. TIP #5: Munchin is a tangle that flows particularly nicely placed next to Paradox. Others that could work well this way are Tri-po, Facets, possibly Hibred (scroll down the link). I can also see possibilities for Tripoli (another of my favorite tangles) and Betweed. This is a rectangle divided in three. The red arrows show where the divisions are. AND THEN SOME! THEN SOME #1: Paradox also makes a nice border design. Start with a row of squares or triangles, then decide whether you want fans or twists. THEN SOME #2: An interesting variation is to fill in every other stripe. Don't do this going around the spiral the way you did the tangle. It's too easy to get confused that way. Begin on one side and fill in to the center, then move on to another side. THEN SOME #3: The triangles or squares you use don't all have to meet neatly at the corners. Interesting things happen when they're placed randomly. You can also use a mix of triangles and squares. THEN SOME #4: Sometimes when I'm doing Paradox using squares there's an odd-shaped section, like a trapezoid. (What a great word!) I've found a few ways of dealing with this challenge. One thing you can do is separate that end bit and deal with it on its own. This leaves a triangle and you can fill it in a number of ways: 1) fill the triangle with Paradox with a twist effect 2) fill the triangle with Paradox with a fan effect 3) fill the triangle Munchin style to extend the fan 4) fill the triangle Munchin style in the other direction Another option is to fill the odd shape entirely with Paradox, adding an extra line or two occasionally as you're spiralling around. You need to think about the direction of the spiral in order for the extra lines to fill the proper space. The aim is to get the (temporarily) empty center area looking more like a regular square. THEN SOME #5: Never say never, right? While the classic Paradox is done entirely with straight lines - thus the paradox - it can also be done using curved lines. It takes a little more concentration. THEN SOME #6: If you're feeling confident, here's something to try: partial Paradox! This requires imagining what's not there, but (of course) it doesn't have to be exact or perfect. Here you can see: 1st: a string 2nd: other tangles (Crescent Moon, Florez, Keenees, Prestwood, Tripo), with two sections left blank. The solid green line makes a nice square in the section where I want to put Paradox. Normally I'd draw it in black. Then there's a dotted green line where I need to imagine the far edge of the other Paradox square. 3rd: one and a half Paradoxes and the final section filled with Gingham THEN SOME #7: Paradox in a paradox. See the Paradox section in the lower left of the tile below? Going from the point in the center, there's a Paradox triangle, a Paradox square, and a partial Paradox. In the square section I did Paradox until about halfway in, then, I reversed direction! Cool! Other tangles here: Moving Day, Ninja Stars, Screen - all mine! FINALLY Here's a pencil string, some notes about what I did, and the Paradox result: There are more examples of Paradox in other Zentangle newsletters here (scroll down) and here (scroll down). I was about to throw out all the examples I did for this post when I thought, "Hmm. Let's stick 'em all together and see what happens." So here it is, the all-in-one (minus one) Paradox visual tutorial! HAVE FUN! (and congratulations to anyone who stuck through it to the end!) THIS JUST IN! August 2011: For another take on Paradox, using a two-sided shape (how cool is that!) see the Zentangle blog post for August 26. June 2012: for a cool variation that I call feathered Paradox see my blog post of June 22, 2012 August 2018: See Rick Roberts' post "Paradox Metaphors" here. April 2020: Another variation, Crazy Paradox, here on my blog.

I belong to a fabulous Facebook group called Linocut Friends: a very talented and generous group of people, always encouraging newbies and sharing new tips and tricks. Well, recently it was discovered by one of our members, that a little die-cut machine called the XcutXpress works very well as a small tabletop press! In the following (rather lengthy) step-by-step, I share my very positive experience with it! (links at the end) For years, I've been enthralled with pysanky, the art of wax-resist egg dyeing used by Ukrainians on their Easter eggs. Some examples have a lovely simplicity, while others are exquisitely ornate. I even bought a pysanky kit years ago, but was quite intimidated by it. I recently decided to do my own humble little version of pysanky on this reduction linocut of an Easter egg, using repeated motifs, etc. It took quite a few sketches to get to this first stage on tracing paper...I was going for natural elements (sky to earth) and trying to create some interesting patterns. I used these wonderful mounted lino blocks from McClain's. The lino cuts like butter and you can order it mounted—the fabulous thing about this mounting is that they set the lino in a bit from the edge. so you can grab it while inking and printing without touching inky edges, etc.! I used these wonderful mounted lino blocks from McClain's. The lino cuts like butter and you can order it mounted—the fabulous thing about this mounting is that they set the lino in a bit from the edge. so you can grab it while inking and printing without touching inky edges! Because I wanted that repetitive pattern to be almost abstract in its shapes, (and being fairly proficient in Adobe Illustrator from my days as a graphic designer), I then "drew" it in Illustrator. This is also a great way to explore color choices, line thicknesses etc. And, especially when you're planning a reduction print, it really helps to plan the whole process in Illustrator or Photoshop, where you can separate out layers, etc. I wanted a really accurate transfer to the lino block, so instead of using tracing paper, I printed it on my laser printer and placed it face down on the lino and ironed the back with a warm iron. It took a few tries but it did work! And the toner residue didn't create any problems with inking later. (And before we go further, I want to mention that I rather like the occasional stray mark here and there on a linocut print. I am not striving for perfection here. Good thing, huh?) Some of these are be out of chronological order, as I want to show the printer set-up at this point. I won't go into elaborate detail about the printer itself, as others have done that much more thoroughly, but I will share a few initial points of interest: The prices are already climbing. I got the last one on Home Shopping Network a couple of weeks ago at $99.99 plus tax and shipping. They're more than that now, but still WAY below the price of a tabletop etching press. It may look like a plastic handbag in the photos, when it's folded up, but it's actually quite sturdy and heavy. You're limited to prints that are 8.5"wide. Adjusting the pressure knob on top is everything. Play with different settings and papers before you do any "real" printing. This is a quick shot I took of my initial "play" session when I unboxed it last week: To keep the block in place, and to keep the rollers from having to go up and down over the block, I made a frame out of balsa pieces from the art supply store, cut to the desired lengths and affixed to the bases with foam tape. (I used the shallower "cutting pad" of the 2 bases that come with the machine, so that the overall height would fit through the press.) Jumping a bit forward, this photo shows the last layer set-up (I had a few prints on longer paper, so I added a balsa block above the lino.) This also shows my new Ternes-Burton pins: I don't know why I EVER tried to register any other way. Period. So, back to the first layer: I cut out everything that would remain white (the paper color), and printed the yellow layer. I used Caligo Safewash Relief inks. Yes, they dry slowly, but nicer ink makes a huge difference, and it really takes a very thin layer of ink to get full coverage. I own the 3 process colors, (which are a bit transparent) and their opaque white. If mixing colors isn't your thing, they have a lovely selection. Nicer gouges (I received these Pfeil gouges for Christmas) make a huge difference too. Pricey, yes, but I figure they more than pay for themselves: I didn't have one throwaway print in the bunch! The tabs from the Ternes-Burton system make it easy to hang the prints to dry, using string and paper clips. I waited 3 days between layers on this project. Next, I carved away everything that would remain as yellow, and printed the blue-green. I never get tired of lifting that paper and seeing the result! I didn't take a photo (sorry!) of my "sandwich" as I ran it thru the press. I would attach the paper's tabs to the pins, lift it up, slide the block in, lower the paper and lay the felt on top. Time to carve the last layer (an almost-black blue-green). Because it was pretty detailed, I needed to use tracing paper and a graphite stick to check my work as I went. And here they are! Not a bad one in the bunch....I mean, edition, of 14. * * * * * Paper: I sampled a number of different papers on this project; in a future post, I will share my thoughts on their performance. * * * * * Feel free to leave any questions in the comments—I know that this was a very quick overview of this process; here are a few very helpful links: Watch videos by Colin Blanchard: the "pioneer" in linocut printing on an Xcut: https://youtu.be/oRmAgpzslnU https://youtu.be/pbgT_Xjyoz4 The machine: https://www.amazon.com/docrafts-Xcut-Xpress-Die-Cutting-Machine/dp/B00GFM3NII The carving tools (I have Set C): http://www.pfeiltools.com/en/products/linoleum-an-block-cutters/set-of-6-linoleum-and-block-cutters.html The lino block I used: http://www.imcclains.com/catalog/blocks/linocut.html The ink I used: http://www.imcclains.com/catalog/ink/Caligointro.html Ternes-Burton registration pins and tabs https://www.ternesburton.com/

Linotype: The Film is a charming, entertaining and incredibly fun tale about an obsolete machine.

Lino printing with a Sizzix machine. Tips and inspiration for using a Sizzix machine to print with linoleum.

This line drawing of a gymnast doing the splits has been hand drawn and digitised. It uses two colours, one for the gymnast and another for the leotard. The design has approximately 2,460 stitches, depending on the format used. Measurements: Height: 134.8 mm Width: 171.3 m Available in the following formats - .10o, .dst, .exp, .hus, .jef, .pec, .pes, .vip, .vp3, .xxx Please note, this is an electronic embroidery design and requires an embroidery machine and a method to transfer the file from your computer to the machine. You will be able to download the file with the design once purchase and payment are complete. The files come in zipped format and when you download the file you will need to unzip it on your computer.