The founder of DLD Brows explains why threading became her favorite and signature technique, and explains all the benefits of eyebrow threading.
Hello Sewing Friends! I'm excited to share my Don't Dread the Thread - July Maxie Mail Subscription Box. This month Maxie is showing us how the use just the right thread for your next sewing project! This is such an awesome box! Let's chat more about the July Maxie Mail Box- What's included: All Threads are by Superior Threads - a quality company that makes fabulous threads and needles! Masterpiece 50 wt. 3-ply Egyptian-grown extra-long staple cotton thread. Designed for piecing, quilting, and sewing. It is certified Egyptian-grown, extra-long staple cotton and designed to create perfectly pieced seams plus has extremely low lint. So Fine! 50 wt. 3-ply polyester thread. Designed for bobbin thread, quilting, and sewing and is lint free! This is the thread I used to learn how to free motion quilt on my home sewing machine. Monopoly - 100 wt. monofilament polyester thread. Designed for invisible applique and quilting. Kimono Silk - Kimono Silk is a very fine, 100% premium multi-filament silk. Ideal for hand and invisible machine applique, detail quilting and lacework. The Bottom Line 60 wt. 2-ply polyester thread. Designed for applique, bobbin thread, and quilting. Sew Complete: 50 wt. 2-ply corespun polyester thread. Designed for sewing and crafting. Vanish Lite: Water soluble thread. Perfect for basting and applique. Brochure and Thread Reference Chart - Resource that explains the different threads and when to use each one. Using the correct type of thread for your project makes your sewing time so much enjoyable as broken thread is no fun! I'm excited to try all these new threads!!!! Which thread are you most excited to try? Don't worry - you can still order the July Box and try all these amazing threads! Unboxing Video: Subscribe here. Be sure to add -- Melanie -- as the referral code to save 10% off your first box! I enjoy receiving my Maxie Mail Subscription Sewing Box each month! I love how Maxie always teaches us a new technique and includes the supplies to make the project! It is truly a "class in a box". The Maxie Mail Subscription Sewing Box is great for anyone who loves sewing and quilting! I love how I can take a class right in my home! Plus the projects are always useful and beautiful! Previous Maxie Mail Subscription Blog Posts June 2019- Woven Stripes May 2019 - Cool Tools April 2019 - Drunkard's Wheel March 2019 - Twiggy Tumblers Pillow February 2019 - Honeypot Celebration Table Runner January 2019 - Island Log Cabins Mini Quilt December 2018 - So Much More Needlebook November 2018 - Mobius Scarves October 2018 - Hexie Zippered Pouch September 2018 - Punched Out Star Pillow August 2018 - Tony Danza Mini Quilt/Pillows July 2018 - Orange Blossom Table Runner June 2018 - Hold it Bins May 2018 - Cool Tools April 2018 - Peppermint Rose Pillowcases March 2018 - Strippy Aunt Josie Mini Quilt/Pillow Have a great day and happy sewing! Be sure to follow me on Instagram @ABitofScrapStuff and here on my A Bit of Scrap Stuff Blog for more sewing fun! Melanie Referral code -- Melanie -- to save 10% off your first box!
THREAD, DON’T DREAD Do you dread to thread? Overlockers or sergers of all kinds have a reputation of being impossible … More
THREAD, DON’T DREAD Do you dread to thread? Overlockers or sergers of all kinds have a reputation of being impossible … More
Every once in a while, your ship will sail right into the dreaded Doldrums of Creativity. Have you been there recently? What I’ve found in my life is that usually when I am in the Doldrums of Creativity, it’s not that I don’t have ideas, it’s that I don’t have faith in my ideas. It’s...
Image from Threads magazine, issue #117 Don't get me wrong, there's nothing inherently bad about a hook and eye. In fact, they can be quite useful little suckers. My problem is that I dread sewing them on. You'd think I was getting a root canal, the way I avoid them! I'm finishing up another dress based on this pattern that I draped (it's the exact same shape, but with an improved empire line, done in navy with white piping, if you're curious), and it will definitely have a hook and eye. When I saw my teacher Sharon last week, she reminded me that a hook and eye at the top of a back zipper will help the neckline of your dress lay perfectly. Plus, to be honest, the zipper on this one starts a smidge low. So there is no doubt that there will be the sewing-on of a hook and eye in my very near future. But why does it fill me with such dread? Perhaps it's just one of those silly chores that one hates for some reason, the way some people hate dusting or taking out the garbage (and yet they can perfectly tolerate washing the dishes or mopping the floor). I also feel I've never gotten my technique down perfectly. Ever since I saw an article in Threads on the subject which showed a hook and eye perfectly executed with gorgeous little blanket stitches (issue #117, if you're interested, it's a great article), I've felt mine were inferior. Yes, I know I'm feeling inferior to an illustration rather than an actual hook and eye, but there you have it. And then there's the fact that there are hooks, eyes, bars - it can be mystifying! Also, Sharon suggested a hook with a thread chain - have any of you done this? So what's your dreaded sewing chore? Also, any hook and eye tips?
Yo quiero mi pelo asi x3
Layered haircuts work for all hair textures and face shapes. So if you want to find a miraculous solution for your sholder length locks, that's it! We collected dozens of medium layered haircuts to help you choose, read on!
Watch the full interview where we were joined by Don Lett’s who was largely responsible for merging punk rock and reggae in London in the late seventies
Today I am going to talk about the dreaded zipper. I know there are many of you out there who despise them....really they are not to be feared! Honestly, I avoided learning how to install an invisible zipper for a long time because I thought there was some sort of magic that I didn't know, so I continued to put in conventional zippers until I designed the Sabrina Tunic. I decided then and there (this was just LAST SPRING, people!) that I had to learn how because I didn't want that tacky "take a look at where I put in my zipper" thing going on down the back of my new tunic! It isn't that I hadn't put an invisible zipper in before, but you have to think a little differently to get them in correctly, and I let that cloud my judgment....well, I am SO OVER that now, and I can't imagine putting in a regular zipper on any clothing garment anymore. This was the inspiration for this post as well as a recent email conversation that I had with someone asking if my tunics required the installation of a zipper and that she really didn't get along with zippers too well. I encouraged her to master this technique, as it will open doors for you if you can think...."An invisible zipper? Ah, that is no sweat!"....So without further ado.....Don't Fear the Zipper! You will notice in the following photos that I use a regular zipper foot. I HAVE an invisible zipper foot, but I prefer to use my regular one. Why? I learned the hard way that some zipper teeth get along with the grooves in my invisible zipper foot and some don't. What I found was that the length of the zipper teeth vary from one brand to another, making some brands grip too tightly in the foot grooves. For example, my foot works great with Coats and Clark zippers, but not so great with Unique by YKK. I found that no matter what I did (change the stitch length, pull the fabric/zipper combo through), my fabric would pucker...gasp! No amount of ironing made it smooth. This was enormously frustrating, so I taught myself how to use the regular zipper foot with any type of invisible zipper and I haven't look back since. I encourage you to try this if you have experienced this puckering before....or even if you haven't, since most of you have a regular zipper foot and are under the mistaken impression that you have to have a special foot for these things. Yes, it takes practice to get as close as the other foot automatically puts the needle, but you can do it! It is also important to note that you can substitute an invisible zipper for a regular one in just about any article of clothing. Just remember NOT to sew the seam where the zipper will be placed. I also find that it is much easier to sew a zipper into something where not much construction has taken place yet, so for the back of a skirt, I would install the zipper before sewing the side seams, for example. Here goes: 1. Finish the raw edges of the fabric to receive the zipper. 2. Unzip the zipper and place it face down on the ironing board. Open out the zipper teeth away from the zipper and press it flat. 3. Place the zipper along one side of the fabric, right sides together. I like to start with the piece that will be to the right of the zipper. It does not matter which side you start with. Place the zipper stop about 5/8" - 3/4" below the top edge of the fabric. The zipper tape may extend beyond the fabric edge depending on the brand of zipper. (some have more tape extending beyond the stop than others) Have the edge of the zipper tape even with the finished edge of fabric. 4. Move the machine needle to the FAR RIGHT position and have the needle in the "needle down" setting if you have that. Begin at the top of the zipper, getting as close as possible to the zipper teeth. Backstitch at the beginning and end. Stitch alongside the zipper teeth as far as possible, stopping when stitching becomes difficult next to the bottom of the zipper. 5. Zip the zipper closed and lay it flat against the wrong side of fabric that you just attached. If there are seams that you have passed in the process of stitching the zipper, use a removable marking pencil to place a mark where the seam is located on the unattached portion of the zipper tape. This is very important, as it helps you to line up the zipper to the other piece of fabric and have your seams meet nicely once the stitching is complete. 6. Open the zipper once more and turn all pieces to face right sides up. Line up the remaining piece of fabric to the side of the zipper. Turn under what will be the seam allowance and slip the remaining side of the zipper underneath. This will put the right side of the zipper against the right side of the fabric. Match up the marking with the seam and pin that spot in place. Check the top of the zipper and pin it in place exactly as the other side was sewn. 7. Stitch the remaining side of the zipper in place in the exact same manner as the first side, only move the needle position to the FAR LEFT. Check your work on the right side of fabric to be sure that the seams and upper edges of fabric meet up appropriately. 8. Zip the zipper closed and match up the edges of the seam below. Pin in a couple of places to hold the fabric together. 9. Move the needle position to the FAR RIGHT again and stitch the seam starting at the lower edge. Have the finished edges of the fabric at the 5/8" marking on your throw plate. Continue stitching until you have stitched just slightly past the original stitching for the zipper. This line of stitching will be slightly to the outside of the original stitching. Backstitch. 10. With the wrong side facing up, press the seam open. Turn the piece over and gently press the seam, including the fabric to either side of the zipper flat. 11. Back on the wrong side, stitch the zipper tape that extends beyond the stitching along the bottom to the seam allowance on either side. And that is it! You have successfully installed an invisible zipper! Now all we need is more cowbell...... : ) Happy Sewing!
When you enjoy your holiday, what hairstyle would you like to have? We think that the best answer is the hair with bandana. Bandana is a piece of square cloth. Usually it’s used to wrap the hair or to be made as an accessory of the outfit. Today we will
After all of the behind-the-scenes drama, controversy and supposed spitting, Warner Bros. Don't Worry Darling finally hits theaters this weekend, and it could fare quite well... despite rather dreadful reviews.
Today I am going to talk about the dreaded zipper. I know there are many of you out there who despise them....really they are not to be feared! Honestly, I avoided learning how to install an invisible zipper for a long time because I thought there was some sort of magic that I didn't know, so I continued to put in conventional zippers until I designed the Sabrina Tunic. I decided then and there (this was just LAST SPRING, people!) that I had to learn how because I didn't want that tacky "take a look at where I put in my zipper" thing going on down the back of my new tunic! It isn't that I hadn't put an invisible zipper in before, but you have to think a little differently to get them in correctly, and I let that cloud my judgment....well, I am SO OVER that now, and I can't imagine putting in a regular zipper on any clothing garment anymore. This was the inspiration for this post as well as a recent email conversation that I had with someone asking if my tunics required the installation of a zipper and that she really didn't get along with zippers too well. I encouraged her to master this technique, as it will open doors for you if you can think...."An invisible zipper? Ah, that is no sweat!"....So without further ado.....Don't Fear the Zipper! You will notice in the following photos that I use a regular zipper foot. I HAVE an invisible zipper foot, but I prefer to use my regular one. Why? I learned the hard way that some zipper teeth get along with the grooves in my invisible zipper foot and some don't. What I found was that the length of the zipper teeth vary from one brand to another, making some brands grip too tightly in the foot grooves. For example, my foot works great with Coats and Clark zippers, but not so great with Unique by YKK. I found that no matter what I did (change the stitch length, pull the fabric/zipper combo through), my fabric would pucker...gasp! No amount of ironing made it smooth. This was enormously frustrating, so I taught myself how to use the regular zipper foot with any type of invisible zipper and I haven't look back since. I encourage you to try this if you have experienced this puckering before....or even if you haven't, since most of you have a regular zipper foot and are under the mistaken impression that you have to have a special foot for these things. Yes, it takes practice to get as close as the other foot automatically puts the needle, but you can do it! It is also important to note that you can substitute an invisible zipper for a regular one in just about any article of clothing. Just remember NOT to sew the seam where the zipper will be placed. I also find that it is much easier to sew a zipper into something where not much construction has taken place yet, so for the back of a skirt, I would install the zipper before sewing the side seams, for example. Here goes: 1. Finish the raw edges of the fabric to receive the zipper. 2. Unzip the zipper and place it face down on the ironing board. Open out the zipper teeth away from the zipper and press it flat. 3. Place the zipper along one side of the fabric, right sides together. I like to start with the piece that will be to the right of the zipper. It does not matter which side you start with. Place the zipper stop about 5/8" - 3/4" below the top edge of the fabric. The zipper tape may extend beyond the fabric edge depending on the brand of zipper. (some have more tape extending beyond the stop than others) Have the edge of the zipper tape even with the finished edge of fabric. 4. Move the machine needle to the FAR RIGHT position and have the needle in the "needle down" setting if you have that. Begin at the top of the zipper, getting as close as possible to the zipper teeth. Backstitch at the beginning and end. Stitch alongside the zipper teeth as far as possible, stopping when stitching becomes difficult next to the bottom of the zipper. 5. Zip the zipper closed and lay it flat against the wrong side of fabric that you just attached. If there are seams that you have passed in the process of stitching the zipper, use a removable marking pencil to place a mark where the seam is located on the unattached portion of the zipper tape. This is very important, as it helps you to line up the zipper to the other piece of fabric and have your seams meet nicely once the stitching is complete. 6. Open the zipper once more and turn all pieces to face right sides up. Line up the remaining piece of fabric to the side of the zipper. Turn under what will be the seam allowance and slip the remaining side of the zipper underneath. This will put the right side of the zipper against the right side of the fabric. Match up the marking with the seam and pin that spot in place. Check the top of the zipper and pin it in place exactly as the other side was sewn. 7. Stitch the remaining side of the zipper in place in the exact same manner as the first side, only move the needle position to the FAR LEFT. Check your work on the right side of fabric to be sure that the seams and upper edges of fabric meet up appropriately. 8. Zip the zipper closed and match up the edges of the seam below. Pin in a couple of places to hold the fabric together. 9. Move the needle position to the FAR RIGHT again and stitch the seam starting at the lower edge. Have the finished edges of the fabric at the 5/8" marking on your throw plate. Continue stitching until you have stitched just slightly past the original stitching for the zipper. This line of stitching will be slightly to the outside of the original stitching. Backstitch. 10. With the wrong side facing up, press the seam open. Turn the piece over and gently press the seam, including the fabric to either side of the zipper flat. 11. Back on the wrong side, stitch the zipper tape that extends beyond the stitching along the bottom to the seam allowance on either side. And that is it! You have successfully installed an invisible zipper! Now all we need is more cowbell...... : ) Happy Sewing!
Everyone has that one special pair of jeans that they love, that hugs their curves perfectly and makes them feel chic and confident. Everyone also knows that heartbreaking feeling when your favorite pair of pants no longer fits, whether due to wear, weight gain, or other circumstances. If the thought of shopping for jeans fills you with dread, don't despair because AllFreeSewing has your back! Learn How to Let Out Pants with this step-by-step guide. We've created an easy-breezy tutorial to letting out jeans and pants so that you can still rock your favorite pair of skinnies or bootcuts in comfort and style. If you're nervous about slicing and dicing your jeans, then this 10-step guide to letting out pants is perfect for you! Yes, you can take in the waist of jeans or expand those jeans, too, without involving a tailor. We've also included some other wonderful sewing tutorials, such as creating a maternity waistband or altering jeans that are either too small or too big. You can even use these tips for sewing jeans from scratch. Stop stressing about shopping for new jeans and embrace your curves with this easy sewing how-to guide for letting out pants. Looking for more? Sign up for one (or more) of our awesome free newsletters!
Basements are dark, moist, spider ridden dungeons the perfect place for scary stories and are notorious for problems, InSoFast can help.
No Knots! I have a few pet peeves about sewing but my biggest one is tying knots. I have that little bitty sense of dread everytime I have to do it - partly because I can't see up close as well as I used to and partly that I like to make several knots and I hate the angst I have over trying to match them up so they're on top of each other. Anyway, here's a nice little technique for handsewing to do away with knots :) #1 double your length of thread/floss and thread the *tails* through the eye of the needle; this leaves a loop at the other end of your thread #2 starting from the back of your fabric, bring the needle up through the fabric to the front side but do not pull all the way through - leave the loop of your thread on the backside #3 push the needle through to the backside, leaving a small space between your original stitch and this new one #4 *this is a picture of the backside* after pulling the thread through from the front put your needle through the loop on the back #5 *this is a picture of the backside* now pull your thread firmly and you are ready to begin stitching! No Tails! One of my other pet peeves? Little thread tails poking up through your work ;) I use this technique on my softies/stuffies/stuffed toys. #1 okay, you've finished sewing up your seams and you've created a knot on the outside of your work #2 with the tail still attached, reinsert your needle as close as possible to your last stitch and then bring your needle up as far as possible from that stitch (basically the length of the needle but you can scrunch your fabric up on the needle so it will go further) #3 it should look something like this #4 now pulling the thread taut, scrunch the fabric up against your last stitch, then snip the thread close to the fabric and let go #5 voila! no peek-a-boo tails! I hope this helps some of you and my directions are clear enough. I'll permalink it in a side column for future reference.
Whether your face is square, oval, round, heart-shaped or oblong, there's a style out there to bring out your features.
Today I am going to talk about the dreaded zipper. I know there are many of you out there who despise them....really they are not to be feared! Honestly, I avoided learning how to install an invisible zipper for a long time because I thought there was some sort of magic that I didn't know, so I continued to put in conventional zippers until I designed the Sabrina Tunic. I decided then and there (this was just LAST SPRING, people!) that I had to learn how because I didn't want that tacky "take a look at where I put in my zipper" thing going on down the back of my new tunic! It isn't that I hadn't put an invisible zipper in before, but you have to think a little differently to get them in correctly, and I let that cloud my judgment....well, I am SO OVER that now, and I can't imagine putting in a regular zipper on any clothing garment anymore. This was the inspiration for this post as well as a recent email conversation that I had with someone asking if my tunics required the installation of a zipper and that she really didn't get along with zippers too well. I encouraged her to master this technique, as it will open doors for you if you can think...."An invisible zipper? Ah, that is no sweat!"....So without further ado.....Don't Fear the Zipper! You will notice in the following photos that I use a regular zipper foot. I HAVE an invisible zipper foot, but I prefer to use my regular one. Why? I learned the hard way that some zipper teeth get along with the grooves in my invisible zipper foot and some don't. What I found was that the length of the zipper teeth vary from one brand to another, making some brands grip too tightly in the foot grooves. For example, my foot works great with Coats and Clark zippers, but not so great with Unique by YKK. I found that no matter what I did (change the stitch length, pull the fabric/zipper combo through), my fabric would pucker...gasp! No amount of ironing made it smooth. This was enormously frustrating, so I taught myself how to use the regular zipper foot with any type of invisible zipper and I haven't look back since. I encourage you to try this if you have experienced this puckering before....or even if you haven't, since most of you have a regular zipper foot and are under the mistaken impression that you have to have a special foot for these things. Yes, it takes practice to get as close as the other foot automatically puts the needle, but you can do it! It is also important to note that you can substitute an invisible zipper for a regular one in just about any article of clothing. Just remember NOT to sew the seam where the zipper will be placed. I also find that it is much easier to sew a zipper into something where not much construction has taken place yet, so for the back of a skirt, I would install the zipper before sewing the side seams, for example. Here goes: 1. Finish the raw edges of the fabric to receive the zipper. 2. Unzip the zipper and place it face down on the ironing board. Open out the zipper teeth away from the zipper and press it flat. 3. Place the zipper along one side of the fabric, right sides together. I like to start with the piece that will be to the right of the zipper. It does not matter which side you start with. Place the zipper stop about 5/8" - 3/4" below the top edge of the fabric. The zipper tape may extend beyond the fabric edge depending on the brand of zipper. (some have more tape extending beyond the stop than others) Have the edge of the zipper tape even with the finished edge of fabric. 4. Move the machine needle to the FAR RIGHT position and have the needle in the "needle down" setting if you have that. Begin at the top of the zipper, getting as close as possible to the zipper teeth. Backstitch at the beginning and end. Stitch alongside the zipper teeth as far as possible, stopping when stitching becomes difficult next to the bottom of the zipper. 5. Zip the zipper closed and lay it flat against the wrong side of fabric that you just attached. If there are seams that you have passed in the process of stitching the zipper, use a removable marking pencil to place a mark where the seam is located on the unattached portion of the zipper tape. This is very important, as it helps you to line up the zipper to the other piece of fabric and have your seams meet nicely once the stitching is complete. 6. Open the zipper once more and turn all pieces to face right sides up. Line up the remaining piece of fabric to the side of the zipper. Turn under what will be the seam allowance and slip the remaining side of the zipper underneath. This will put the right side of the zipper against the right side of the fabric. Match up the marking with the seam and pin that spot in place. Check the top of the zipper and pin it in place exactly as the other side was sewn. 7. Stitch the remaining side of the zipper in place in the exact same manner as the first side, only move the needle position to the FAR LEFT. Check your work on the right side of fabric to be sure that the seams and upper edges of fabric meet up appropriately. 8. Zip the zipper closed and match up the edges of the seam below. Pin in a couple of places to hold the fabric together. 9. Move the needle position to the FAR RIGHT again and stitch the seam starting at the lower edge. Have the finished edges of the fabric at the 5/8" marking on your throw plate. Continue stitching until you have stitched just slightly past the original stitching for the zipper. This line of stitching will be slightly to the outside of the original stitching. Backstitch. 10. With the wrong side facing up, press the seam open. Turn the piece over and gently press the seam, including the fabric to either side of the zipper flat. 11. Back on the wrong side, stitch the zipper tape that extends beyond the stitching along the bottom to the seam allowance on either side. And that is it! You have successfully installed an invisible zipper! Now all we need is more cowbell...... : ) Happy Sewing!
Ruh roh. It's time for one of my most inexplicably dreaded parts of beginning a sewing project (well, besides tracing, cutting an...
Medium-length layered hairstyles are the best of both worlds, meaning long and short cuts. They offer all the same vibrancy of a short, trendy cut with a
THREAD, DON’T DREAD Do you dread to thread? Overlockers or sergers of all kinds have a reputation of being impossible … More
A comprehensive list of products for retwisting locs that will not cause build up or flaking and a few of my favorite products for retwisting locs.
Ruh roh. It's time for one of my most inexplicably dreaded parts of beginning a sewing project (well, besides tracing, cutting an...
This listing is for 1 made-to-order hair cuff in the color and style of your choice. If you would like to purchase more than one, please choose the appropriate quantity in the drop-down menu. These wire wrapped spiral hair cuffs comfortably wrap around your hair and can be tightened to "lock" in place. The hair cuff will be sized to have a 5mm hole, but they are flexible and can easily be resized to your desired width. Great for any hair; they look great in dreads and braids but dreadlocks are NOT necessary to wear them. Use the options in the drop-down menu to choose the size of the piece you would like, and whether or not you would like me to include beads in the design. In the "Personalization" field or in a note while you are checking out, you can indicate what type of metal you would like your haircuff to be made of (silver-plated, brass, or copper) and the color of any beads you would like if you choose to include beads in your item. If you have any trouble doing so, don't worry, I will contact you for the details once I receive your order. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Check out this 30 second video showing how easy it is to use these haircuffs! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSLTU0PSZj4 Interested in purchasing more than 5? I offer bulk discounts! Message me so we can discuss! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Join my email newsletter to instantly receive a 20% off coupon for your order! *Links leading out of Etsy are not clickable.* Copy and paste into your browser: http://eepurl.com/ic-Zkr
Ruh roh. It's time for one of my most inexplicably dreaded parts of beginning a sewing project (well, besides tracing, cutting an...
Jewellery - Ancient Hearts Dreads - Morrock Moon Everything else is second hand Instagram (please don’t delete caption)
Looks like we just came home from a fun vacation doesn't it. These are popular in tourist areas and many young girls get them on summer t...
THREAD, DON’T DREAD Do you dread to thread? Overlockers or sergers of all kinds have a reputation of being impossible … More
We're told to accept our post-baby bodies. But what if those jelly-tummies are actually an undiagnosed medical problem with a fairly simple fix?
THREAD, DON’T DREAD Do you dread to thread? Overlockers or sergers of all kinds have a reputation of being impossible … More
By Rebecca Langford
Discover 25 stunning medium bob haircuts for women, perfect for all hair types. From classic to modern styles, explore cuts with layers, bangs, soft waves, and more. Ideal for fine, thick, straight, and curly hair, find the perfect shoulder-length bob to suit your look and personality.
