I think this pattern is widely know but I thought I would share anyway. I like my animals to have some heft to them so I adjusted the normal pattern to reflect that. Good luck. If you are too busy to knit (or don't know how) I am putting is lamb and several horses up on my Etsy page for sale. Just in time for Easter baskets if you like :) . Sewing & filling the animal is what really takes the time. Remember to roll your wool filling around a pencil (very tightly) for the legs and let it come up and be part of the hip bone too - that will make the animal more stable. Don't forget to give him a nice round plump tummy. If you knit a dark animal - don't forget to fill and shape him with dark colored wool.
If you enjoy crafting with natural materials, creating needle-felted animals may be your new favourite hobby. This selection from the book, Sweet & Simple Needle-Felted Animals by Sachiko Susa provides an overview of the process plus some adorable project ideas to get you started.
Dolls are a childhood classic, and even with all the crazy electronics available today, they are still always loved by kids. Crochet dolls free patterns are
I've been wanting to make a Mother Earth figure for our Nature Table for some time now. We have some bendy little wooden people who often...
Wool needle felted sculpture www.birdonwirestudio.blogspot.com
Just in the nick of time, the second to the last day of the exhibition, my quilt/bead buddies and I went to see the show at the La Conner Quilt & Textile Museum. WOW! Sue Spargo's quilts on the 2nd floor just caught my heart, wrapped it up, and sent it to heaven! I've always been attracted to folk art, the whimsical, fanciful, happy, colorful art, which I assume is made by people who are equally whimsical, fanciful, happy, and colorful. While I loved every single one of Sue's quilts, I think this one makes me the happiest. Look at all these little chicks (36 of them!), jauntily dressed in their best, and headed toward a big hoopla somewhere to the left. Sue calls it "a small study sampler," and names it Bird Play #1. Here are some of my favorite players. (I apologise for the shadows on the bottom of each of these detail pictures, caused by my hands and camera, and for the inaccurate colors, especially of the background. Picture them much brighter, more highly saturated colors, and the background is blue, not grey!) Sue's technique of using hand-dyed wool, cotton fabrics, hand-dyed velvet, silk thread, Perle cottons, buttons, and beads to applique and embellish her little chicks (each about 3" high), lends itself so well to creating character. And birds are a great subject for "character," with their colorful plumes, spots, stripes, combs, feet, etc. After making Bird Play #1 in 2013, Sue further developed her techniques in a larger wall quilt called Bird Dance, which is another piece at the top of my favorites list. Once I had admired each of the 30 birds and photographed some of them (see below), I began to notice the background, the way she layered and stitched the background blocks, how they compliment the birds, balancing the entire composition, keeping the birds from appearing to be "stuck" on the background. Pure genius, if you ask me! Although birds lend themselves to folk art and fanciful design better than any other subject matter, Sue also gave her talents to various animals, leaves, flowers, and circles. Here are a few examples to show what I mean. This is Travel Journal, with impressions of Italy, Vietnam, South Africa, and Australia. My favorite animal here is the camel. As you can see in the circle of critters, the camel is upside down. I've left her that way for you to see in detail. As with all of the pictures, you can click on the image to view the stitch details in a larger size. Sue had many small study samplers in the show, several of which were of leaves. Here is a detail from one of them. The machine quilting on all (or most?) of her quilts is done by Janet Joehlin. It's worth noticing because it doesn't compete with the applique at all. One automatically studies the applique first, before even noticing the quilting, which is (in my opinion) exactly as it should be. Many of her quilts also include flowers, another subject that lends itself well to this design style. Here is a detail of one of them. If you've been drooling over the stitches, the bullion loops, the Italian knotted border stitch, the Palestrina knots, the woven picots (bird beaks), etc., if you've been itching to learn them (as I was), there is good news! Sue's book, Creative Stitching, How to Create Vivid, Lively Textures Using 50 of my Favorite Stitches, tells and shows you how to do them with easy-to-follow drawings and photos. It's available in the gift shop at the La Conner Quilt Museum, or through Sue's website, here. Sue also teaches classes. She's teaching 4 one-day classes in La Conner this fall, all of which are already full. But they are taking a waiting list. Guess who is on it?! She teaches around the country and sometimes out of it. Her schedule is here. I have only two regrets: 1. that I didn't get to La Conner at the start of the show, so I could go see it again, and maybe again, posting about it in time for local readers to go see it too, and 2. that I didn't know about her workshops before they filled. Her work makes me happy. I'm happy posting about it. I was happy working with the photos. I am happy just thinking about all those little chicks heading left, bless their little hearts!
UPDATE November 2019 !!! PDF patterns of my animals are NOW AVAILABLE in my ETSY shop !!! New instant download PDF animal sewing patterns If you are looking to make some of these lovely little mice by yourself then head to my Etsy shop where you can purchase a PDF pattern for these little cuties. The PDF patterns are all detailed step-by-step photo tutorials and they come with a handy stitch guide for hand stitching. Most of the stages can be stitched with a sewing machine too. You can find out more details in my ETSY shop. Here are photos of my very first mice, owls, shrews, teddy bears and lavender hearts, but if you head to BILBERRY WOODS ANIMALS section you can see the whole current collection of animals that I am working into PDF sewing patterns. There are 26 animal characters so soon there will be plenty to choose from! Also if you have a look at other items in the DESIGN PORTFOLIO or SHOP section, you'll see some other items that will be turned into PDF patterns in 2020. But more than that I hope my blog page will give you some inspiration for your own craft projects. Happy Making!! These owls are my original designs and the very first Bilberry Woods animals that I created. They are made from British tweed fabric and filled with recycled polyester and steel pellets. They are as great paperweights. I sold hundreds of these, and the mice and shrews, to Liberty in London and other shops too. In fact, my animals have been sold to over 25 countries around the world!
Star baby in moon pocket. Star baby has been handcrafted from wool felt, the head is a wood bead, measures 5" tall. Moon pocket has been made from wool felt and measures 5" across. Toys crafted of materials like wood, wool, silk, and cotton connect our children with the natural world and encourages creative and imaginative play. This listing is for one star baby in moon pocket. Thank you for looking!
This listing is for an extensive PDF file which contains full instructions for crocheting and finishing off the doll VANIA. The pattern contains a lot of detailed step-by-step photographs along with full pattern instructions and tips for crocheting, jointing and finishing neatly. In addition to textual instructions, there are also crochet charts available in the pattern. Only the shoes, the shoulder bag and the hairband of the doll are removable. All other clothes are fix connected with the doll. This is NO DRESS UP DOLL. Skill level: intermediate to advanced F i n i s h e d S i z e: The doll measures approx. 13.5” or 34 cm. What you will need: M a t e r i a l s: That`s the yarn I used: • CATANIA - Schachenmayr; sport weight yarn, 100% Cotton, 1.76 ounces = 137 yards/50 grams = 125 meters, 13 colors • Fiberfill • Optional: foam hair roller or quilt batting (for more stability) • Optional: Wire (for more possibility of posing) • 2 black safety eyes, Ø 1/4” or 6 mm • Cardboard or plastic for the feet • 2 buttons for the shoes, Ø 3/8-1/2” or 10 12 mm • Decorative button for the shoulder bag, Ø 11/16” or 17 mm • Hair tie • Strong thread resistant (dental floss) for the thread jointing • Sewing thread to sew on the wig and the buttons N o t i o n s: • Hook size US 0 (2.0 mm), US 1½ (2.5 mm), US 2½ (3.0 mm) and US 3 (3.5 mm) • Yarn needles (usual and extra long) • Sewing needle • Sewing thread • Stitch marker • Scissors • Pins • Optional: wooden spoon/chopstick and clamping scissor to simplify the filling • Cutting pliers (if using wire): especially useful for cutting the wire to the desired length. • Flat-nose pliers (if using wire): not mandatory but very useful for bending the ends of the wire Copyright, Carola Herbst, CAROcreated, 2021 All rights reserved All images and designs, including the name and description of this pattern, are the intellectual property of CAROcreated / Carola Herbst. The pattern is for personal use only. The pattern or parts of it (including photos) may be not reproduced, redistributed, resold, translated, published (online or printed), altered, shared or posted (for sale or free) over the internet or offline! You are welcome to sell finished creation using my pattern - in limited serie and handmade by you. Please include a link or reference to my shop www.etsy.com/shop/CAROcreated, if you will list it on internet. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Du erhältst mit diesem Angebot eine umfangreiche PDF-Datei, die eine ausführliche Anleitung für das Häkeln und die Fertigstellung der Puppe VANIA enthält. Die umfangreiche Datei enthält neben vielen detaillierten Schritt-für-Schritt Fotos ausführliche Anweisungen und Tipps zum Häkeln und zur Fertigstellung der Puppe. Neben textlichen Anweisungen enthält die Anleitungen auch Häkeldiagramme. Die Schuhe, die Tasche und das Haarband der Puppe sind “ausziehbar” bzw. “abnehmbar”, alle anderen Teile sind fest mit der Puppe verbunden. Es handelt sich hier also NICHT um die Anleitung für eine An- & Ausziehpuppe. Schwierigkeitsgrad: mittel-schwer F e r t i g e G r ö ß e: Bei Verwendung des angegebenen Materials misst die Puppe ca. 34 cm . MATERIAL: Garn: CATANIA – Schachenmayr (100% Baumwolle, LL 50 g = 125 m), 13 Farben • Füllwatte • optional: flexible Lockenstäbe, Schaum-stoff-Lockenwickler oder Volumen-Vlies (für eine bessere Stabilität der Puppe) • optional: Draht (für mehr Posing-Möglichkeiten) • 2 schwarze Sicherheitsaugen, Ø 6 mm • Plastik oder Pappe für die Fußsohlen • 2 Knöpfe für die Schuhe, Ø 10 12 mm • Dekorativer Knopf für die Umhängetasche, Ø 17 mm • Haargummi • reißfester Faden (z.B. Zahnseide) • Nähgarn zum Annähen der Perücke und der Knöpfe WERKZEUGE: • Häkelnadel 2,0 mm, 2,5 mm, 3,0 mm und 3,5 mm • Sticknadel (normal und extra lang) • Nähnadel • Nähgarn • Rundenmarkierer • Stecknadeln • Schere • Optional: Holzlöffel und Klemmschere zum Stopfen • Beim Verwenden von Draht: Schneidezange (zum Zuschneiden des Drahtes) und Flachzange (nicht zwingend erforderlich, aber sehr nützlich zum Umbiegen der Enden des Drahtes) Copyright - 2021, Carola Herbst Alle Rechte vorbehalten. Verkauf, Vervielfältigung, Tausch und Veröffentlichung (inkl. Übersetzung und Fotos) der Anleitung (einschließlich Veröffentlichung im Internet) sind untersagt. Der Verkauf des nach dieser Anleitung gehäkelten fertigen Produktes ist aber erlaubt. Erfolgt der Verkauf im Internet, bitte einen Link zu meinem Shop setzen (https://www.etsy.com/shop/CAROcreated)
Took a few pictures of my needle felted carnivorous plant from my Mad Science set in Wee Felt Worlds! Still super proud of these little guys.
The pattern contains a lot of detailed step-by-step photographs along with full pattern instructions and tips for crocheting, jointing and finishing neatly. In addition to textual instructions, there are also crochet charts available in the pattern. Hat and scarf of the doll are removable. All other clothes are fix connected with the doll. This pattern uses US crochet terms. Skill level: intermediate. F i n i s h e d S i z e: Doll: approx. 12 1/4” or 31 cm. What you will need: M a t e r i a l s: That`s the yarn I used: • Cotton yarn (sport weight yarn - 5 ply) , CATANIA - Schachenmayr / BASIC COTTON - Pro Lana (100% Cotton, 1.78 ounces = 137 yards/50 grams = 125 meters), 14 different colors • Fiberfill • 2 black safety eyes, Ø 6 mm • Cardboard or plastic for the soles • 2 buttons for the shoes - Ø 1/2" or 14 mm • Strong thread resistant (dental floss) for the thread jointing • Sewing thread to sew on the wig, the buttons, the hat band and the flowers • optional: glue N o t i o n s: • Hook size US 1½ (2.5 mm) and US 2½ (3.0 mm) • Tapestry needles (usual and extra long) • Sewing needle • Stitch marker • Scissor • Pins • optional: wooden spoon/chopstick and clamping scissor to simplify the filling Die umfangreiche Datei enthält neben vielen detaillierten Schritt-für-Schritt Fotos ausführliche Anweisungen und Tipps zum Häkeln und zur Fertigstellung der Puppe. Neben textlichen Anweisungen enthält die Anleitungen auch Häkeldiagramme. Die Mütze und der Schal der Puppe sind “ausziehbar”, alle anderen Bekleidungsstücke sind fester Bestandteil der Puppe. Schwierigkeitsgrad: mittel-schwer F e r t i g e G r ö ß e: Die Puppe ist ca. 31 cm groß bei Verwendung des angegebenen Materials. Was sie benötigen: M a t e r i a l: Dieses Garn habe ich verwendet: • Baumwollgarn (Catania von Schachenmayr/ Basic Cotton von Pro Lana), 14 verschiedene Farben (50 g = 125 m) • Füllwatte • 2 schwarze Sicherheitsaugen, Ø 6 mm • Pappe für die Fußsohlen • 2 kleine Knöpfe für die Stiefel - 14 mm • Reißfester Faden (z.B. Zahnseide) • Nähgarn zum Annähen der Perücke, der Knöpfe, des Hutbandes und der Blumen • Optional: Kleber W e rk z e u g: • Häkelnadel, 2,5 mm und 3,0 mm • Sticknadel (normal und extra lang) • Nähnadel • Rundenmarkierer • Stecknadeln • Schere • Optional: Holzlöffel und Klemmschere zum Stopfen Copyright, Carola Herbst, CAROcreated, 2018 All rights reserved All images and designs, including the name and description of this pattern, are the intellectual property of CAROcreated / Carola Herbst. The pattern is for personal use only. The pattern or parts of it (including photos) may be not reproduced, redistributed, resold, translated, published (online or printed), altered, shared or posted (for sale or free) over the internet or offline! You are welcome to sell finished creation using my pattern - in limited serie and handmade by you. Please include a link or reference to my shop www.etsy.com/shop/CAROcreated, if you will list it on internet.
Explore Maria Handmade's 144 photos on Flickr!
Continuando com a partilha de experiências e conhecimentos e depois de imensos pedidos para mostrar o passo-a-passo das fadinhas, feltradas com agulha (needlefelting), cá fica a minha tentativa... deu muito trabalho e, como é óbvio, não se conseguem mostrar todos os pormenores! Só ao vivo, com paciência e depois de muitas tentativas e dedos picados, se vai conseguir realmente perceber toda a magia desta lã de merino. Mas espero, que com este passo-a-passo já consigam aventurar-se a experimentar e acima de tudo terem a percepção do trabalho envolvido na construção de uma simples fada ! Esta é uma das formas que executar as fadinhas, mas existem outras. Esta não é certa nem errada, foi aquela que aprendi a fazer (com a Maria Carmo, da Loja Bolas de Tons) . Aproveitem e experimentem ! Agradeço que não reproduzam as imagens sem a minha autorização :) Material: - agulhas de feltrar (uma de tamanho grande (L) pode dar, mas é natural que possam parti-la, por isso aconselho a terem mais do que uma) - e se puderem comprem também uma agulha de tamanho fino; em alternativa a terem 2 agulhas de tamanho diferente, podem comprar o tamanho M, que já dá para quase tudo; - esponja para feltrar; - lã de merino (mecha de lã) - eu prefiro a lã penteada em banda. Em cor de pele e pelo menos mais 2 ou 3 cores para fazer as saias da fada; - limpa-cachimbos (para os braços); - fio de nylon (cerca de 50 cm para uma fada); - agulha grossa (com buraco suficiente para passar o fio de pesca), que servirá para enfiar o fio na fada (pode ser tipo arraiolos, mas com bico dá mais jeito); - alicate pequeno, também pode ser útil. Bola / Cabeça Passos 1 e 2 - Com um pouco de mecha (podem ser desperdícios - vão perceber que ao fim de algumas fadas, já sobram restos de lã que dão perfeitamente para as cabeças), enrolem e piquem no fim de enrolar tudo. Passos 3 e 4 - Piquem e piquem... (se preferirem no início, com a ajuda de outra agulha, para não se picarem, mas sem fazer muita força, porque podem parti-la), tentando ir dando forma de uma bola. Passos 5 e 6 - Com mecha de cor de pele, enrolem mais um pouco de lã e piquem até formar a bola para a cabeça, até atingirem o tamanho desejado (para uma fada média, cerca de 3 cm) mas sem que se veja a cor de dentro (se esta for diferente da cor de pele). Para estes primeiros passos utilizem a agulha grossa (mais larga), onde ainda não é necessário fazer modelação pormenorizada e não há problema de se notarem os furos da agulha na lã. Verão que produzem mais depressa. Quem quiser experimentar, pode utilizar os suportes de multi-agulhas (há para 4 e 6 agulhas). Há quem não goste de os utilizar por não se adaptar ou porque o risco de se picarem é maior! Eu utilizo sempre! :) Cabeça / Pescoço Passo 7 - Com uma mecha de cor de pele, com cerca de 20 ou 25 cm de comprimento, retirem duas mechas muito finas da parte lateral da mecha principal. Passos 8 - Estendam uma das mini-mechas da esponja e coloquem perpendicularmente a mecha mais larga. Apertem com um nó de forma a fechar a mecha larga a meio do comprimento. ATENÇÃO: a mecha quando se pega perto do local a apertar não se desfaz (é forte), mas se a prenderem com os dedos longe do local do nó, vão perceber que ela desfaz-se logo. Passo 9 - Coloquem a bola previamente executada no meio da mecha já apertada, segurem com força de modo a que a mecha fique bem estendida e prendam com o dedo. Passo 10 e 11 - Coloquem a outra mini-mecha entre o dedo que segura e a própria mecha e vão enrolando. Primeiro com a parte da mini-mecha de um lado e depois finaliza-se com a do outro lado. No fim pica-se ligeira mas firmemente para prender o pescoço. Passo 12 - Depois destes passos executados, irá ficar como ilustra a figura. Braços Passo 13 - Necessita de duas mini-mechas de cor de pele, com cerca de 20 cm de comprimento e um limpa-cachimbos. Passo 14 e 15- Comece a enrolar uma das mechas a cerca de 2 ou 3 cm de uma das extremidades. Enrole até ficar com cerca de 0,5 cm de limpa-cachimbo sem lã, mas com o cuidado de ir sobrepondo a lã, não deixando a cor do limpa-cachimbo à mostra. Passo 16 - Dobrem o limpa-cachimbos de forma que na dobra fique sempre cor de pele. Passo 17 - Continuem a enrolar com cuidado e sempre com a lã esticada, tapando o remate da dobra e até acabar a lã, como se mostra na figura. Passo 18 - Repetir os passos anteriores para a outra extremidade. Passo 19 - Retirem duas mini-mechas da cor que querem para os braços com cerca de 25 cm de comprimento(se quiserem fazer uma fada de manga curta ou manga cava, continuem os passos seguintes com lã cor de pele. Ou podem optar por colocar duas cores na manga ou enrolar um fio de lã fino, para fazer uma espiral. Passo 20 - Comecem a enrolar uma das mini-mechas, um pouco antes da mão da fada (sempre com a lã esticada e não enrolada). Passos 21 e 22 - Quando chegarem à zona do "punho" comecem a enrolar para trás (sempre com o cuidado de tapar bem o limpa-cachimbo mas não deixando zonas com mais lã porque isso iria deixar zonas mais grossas no braço. Passo 23 - Repetir os passos anteriores para a outra extremidade. Passo 24 - Coloquem o arame dos braços, abrindo ao meio a mecha que sobrou da cabeça, junto ao pescoço. Segurem firme com o dedo e com uma mecha da cor dos braços, enrolem na diagonal, começando por cima e traçando nas costas e à frente. Enrolem até acabar a mecha e piquem onde esta acabar, para prender. Ups! Dei conta que saltei para a foto 25, mas a sequência esta certa! Primeira saia Passo 26 - Preparem uma mecha grande (com cerca de 30 cm - dependendo do tamanho da fada que pretendem), da cor para a base da saia (ou corpo da fada). Eu defendo que o branco fica sempre bem com todas as outras cores, mas também já vi e fiz fadas com outras cores de base, que ficaram muito bem. Preparem, além da mecha grande, mais 4 mechas adicionais de branco, com cerca de 12 ou 15 cm de comprimento. Passo 27 - Abram a mecha a meio, na zona média do seu comprimento. Passo 28 - Insiram a mecha da cabeça na abertura executada anteriormente, como mostra a figura e até à zona dos braços. Passos 29 e 30 - Piquem a lã, segurando com a outra mão o corpo da fada (será mais fácil). Vão picando e rodando, de forma a picarem de todos os lados. Passo 31 - Para a saia da fada não abrir, piquem com a agulha (fina, se tiverem), com cuidado e pouca força, de forma a juntar as duas partes separadas. Passo 32 e 33 - Com as mechas mais pequenas, comecem por colocar uma de cada vez, dos dois lados, trás e frente, picando para prender debaixo dos braços. Tenham o cuidado de ir abrindo a mecha (não em demasiado), mas para ir ocupando o espaço onde falte mais lã. Esta é grande diferença (truque ou segredo :) ! ), para as fadas que ficam mais "magras". Ao colocarem estas 4 mechas vão dar volume ao corpo da fada e comecem desde esta altura a dar forma (de gota ou funil). Primeira e segunda cor / Cinto Passo 35 - Preparem uma mecha de lã da cor que querem para a primeira saia. Da mesma foram que fizeram para o branco. Passos 36 e 37 - Desta vez, em vez de colocar a mecha por baixo, vão enfiá-la pela cabeça da fada e para prender, vão picar debaixo dos braços, tentanto fazê-lo sobre uma linha seguida. Piquem à frente, atrás e de lado. Podem colocar a fada na extremidade da esponja com o braço de fora, porque ajuda a picar na zona debaixo dos braços sem os dobrar. Passos 38 e 39 (falta a foto 38) - Quando picarem, vão verificar que debaixo dos braços, mesmo abrindo a mecha com a ajuda da agulha, poderá faltar cor para tapar todo o corpo branco. Se isso acontecer, devem arranjar mais um pouco de mecha, pegando na lã mesmo na ponta da mecha e puxar apenas com a pontinha dos dedos. Para assim retirarem mesmo uma mecha com pouca quantidade de lã. Coloquem estes bocados de lã debaixo dos braços e piquem, reforçando bem para não se soltarem. Quando se pica a saia/corpo branco e as outras cores, devem picar de forma segura e profunda, permitindo que a agulha entrelace as fibras da lã, ultrapassando as diversas camadas, na zona da cintura. Escolham a segunda cor para a saia de cima, e repitam todo o processo da 1ª cor. Deverá ficar com se mostra nas fotos 40 e 42. Passo 40 - Para executar o cinto torcido tricolor, preparem mechas das cores que preferirem com cerca de 15 cm - permitirá dar 2 voltas à cintura da fada, mas podem dar apenas 1 volta (em princípio ficará melhor utilizar as cores da própria fada, mas isso depende dos gostos). Passo 41 - Com a agulha piquem de forma a prenderem as três cores à esponja e comecem a enrolar, com o cuidado de deixar as 3 cores à mostra, esticando sempre. Passo 42 - Comecem por picar o início do cinto ou atrás ou debaixo de um braço. Depois vão enrolando na cintura da fada e a própria lã. Quando acabar piquem nas zonas de transferência das diferentes cores. Vão ver que não se notará e permite que se fixe bem à cintura da fada. Se quiserem podem fazer apenas com uma cor (cinto normal). Para isso basta preparar uma mecha, começar a picar debaixo de um dos braços e ir enrolando até acabar a lã e tentar voltar a picar, para finalizar, debaixo de um dos braços ou atrás, para não se notar. No fim destes passos, dobrem os bracinhos, dando a forma que quiserem. Eu prefiro que fiquem como estão na imagem, nem muito abertos nem muito fechados... harmoniosos. Cabelo e trança Passo 43 - Preparem um pequena mecha da cor que querem para o cabelo. Passo 44 - Coloquem a mecha em cima da cabeça da fada. Passo 45 - Neste exemplo, fiz risco ao lado na fada. Mas podem fazer risco ao meio ou de outra forma. Comecem a picar, segurando firmemente com a outra mão (cuidado para não se picarem!), até à parte de trás da cabeça. Passos 46 e 47 - Com cuidado vão picando o cabelo de um dos lados, esticando-o, na zona do pescoço para segurar o cabelo de lado, puxando para trás, para rematar no fim. Passo 48 - Repetir o mesmo para o lado contrário. À frente ficará estranha, podendo até tapar grande parte da cara. Passo 49 - Com a agulha, mas com cuidado, vão enfiando para dentro e dando forma ao penteado, tendo em conta a cara que imaginam para a fada. Passo 50 - Preparem uma mecha, com metade da largura da mecha original, para a trança. Passo 51 - Prendam a mecha, picando na esponja. Passos 52 e 53 - Comecem a fazer a trança, tendo atenção para não apertar demasiado, nem a deixar muito "gorda". No fim, piquem umas 2 ou 3 vezes apenas para prender. Passo 54 - Com a ponta de uma mecha (mesmo pequenina, uma "farripa"), comecem por picar para prender, para fazer o "elástico" para prender a trança. Passos 55 e 56 - Enrolem e piquem com cuidado, de preferência com a agulha fina, para não sair muita lã do lado contrário. No fim de enrolarem toda a mecha, finalizem com poucas picadas, mas prendendo bem. Trança e flor enrolada no cabelo Passo 57 - Coloquem a trança na parte da frente da fada, para terem noção do enquadramento e do comprimento. Segurem-na no braço. Passo 58 - Comecem por picar no ombro, mas nas zonas de entrelace da trança, para não se notar. Continue a picar até "dissolver" a lã do início da trança, na parte de trás da cabeça, disfarçando o mais possível. Convém que a trança não tenha muita lã no início, pois será mais difícil disfarçá-la na parte de trás. Há quem faça a trança directamente da mecha do cabelo. Eu acho que assim é mais fácil e não fica menos perfeito. Passo 59 - Preparem uma mecha muito, muito fina, para a flor enrolada para o cabelo. Passo 60 - Enrolem bem com os dedos, vão ver que irão formar rolinhos de lã. Depois de bem enrolada a lã, já não se desfaz. Passo 61 - Com a agulha (depreferência a fina), piquem as flores ao cabelo da fada. Eu nesta fada, juntei rosa e verde, para fazer as flores enroladas. Podem ter de fazer 2 ou 3 florzinhas destas, porque para prender ao cabelo, vão ficar meio escondidas. Fio de pendurar Passo 62 - Preparem cerca de 50 cm de fio de nylon e uma agulha grossa, com buraco largo. Passo 63 - Façam um nó na ponta, unindo as duas extremidades do fio. Passo 64 - Enfiem a extremidade contrária ao nó no buraco da agulha, sem dobrar muito o fio, para não marcar. Passo 65 - Espetem a agulha nas costas da fada, passando por trás do cinto, apanhando bem o corpo da fada. Passo 66 - Antes de puxarem o fio até ao fim, passem a agulha pelo meio da volta do fio, perto do nó, como na foto. Passo 67 - Depois de puxarem o fio, já bem preso, espetem a agulha na zona da "nuca" da fada, de forma a que saia na zona central da cabela em cima, para que depois de pendurada a fada fique direita. Passo 68 - Irá ficar como nesta fotografia. Passo 69 - Ao longo da construção da fada, devem continuar a dar forma à fada. Pendurem-na pelo bico de baixo segurando com uma mão e picando ligeiramente com a agulha. Rodando e picando... Asas Passo 70 - Preparem um mecha com cerca de 10 cm de comprimento e outra muito fina (mas larga) em cor constrastante para coloca em cima. Passo 71 - Apertem com a mão ao centro da mecha e coloque a mecha nas costas da fada. Passo 72 - Piquem com a agulha L, de forma profunda e firme, seguindo uma linha. Por vezes irá sentir o fio de nylon, por isso tento evitá-lo, para não partir nenhuma agulha. Passo 73 - Depois de bem picadas, as asas ficarão bem presas. Com a ajuda da agulha, endireitem-nas. Passo 74 - Vista de frente, depois de estarem as asas colocadas e penteadas. Passo 75 - Vista da fada pendurada e finalizada. Notas: Há quem coloque nas fadas laca fixadora. Eu recomendo que tenham atenção se o fizerem. Não coloquem o spray junto à fada, pois esta irá ficar pegajosa. Mantenham uma distãncia de cerca de 20 cm (pelo menos), este fixador irá ajudar a manter a forma da fada, muito embora elas fiquem mais bonitas, com a lã natural. Se com a viagem do envio ou depois de algum tempo guardadas em caixa, podem ficar deformadas. Basta que com uma mão segurem no fio e com a outra a moldem novamente, empurrando-a para cima, tentanto darem-lhe a forma arrendondada que tinha no início. Tendo em conta que são executadas em lã 100% merino (ovelha) com o tempo e se estiverem colocadas em zonas de calor, podem feltrar naturalmente, aumentando de volume. Não estranhem, é normal. Podem voltar a penteá-las com a agulha. Se acharem que ficaram com pó (natural!), podem soprá-las com a ajuda de um secador de cabelo, sem temperatura (frio) e com pouca potência. Espero que aproveitem e que tenham gostado do tutorial das fadinhas. Deu bastante trabalho e continuo a dizer que aprender ao vivo com alguém é sempre preferível, mas como já inúmeras vezes me pediram para tentar mostrar, cá fica! Pensem que com a partilha todos ganhamos... os conhcecimentos devem ser transmitidos, porque também foi assim que aprendemos :) e ao guardar tudo para nós, ninguém ganha! Bjos para todas :) e agora deêm asas à vossa imaginação !
These little needelfelted gnomes are my favourite gift for the little people in my life (and some of the bigger people too!) They are quite easy to make, and have so much character. Use them in storytelling, for play, or as a little pocket friend to whisper secrets to! They make a lovely Valentine's gift, with the hearts needlefelted onto their tunics. These little gnomes are made in the same way as the ones featured in the Trille de Bois Waldorf School Tapestry. Love Gnomes: Materials: 0.2 ounces wool batting/roving in 4 colors: hat, skintone, tunic,leggings small amount of wool roving for boots ( optional) small amount of wool/mohair locks for hair and beards pipecleaner felting needle and sponge (a good kitchen sponge will work) sewing needle and thread Finished, the Love Gnomes stand about 6 inches tall. You can make them taller or smaller by adjusting the length of the pipecleaner, and the amount of wool you use for the legs. Divide the skintone wool roving, so you have small long strips, about 0.5 inch wide and 6-8 inches long. Cut the pipecleaner to measure 8 inches. Fold in the ends of the pipecleaner so they meet in the middle. Using a very small amount of roving, wrap wool around the folded end of the pipecleaner. Start wrapping about 0.5 inch from the bend, and wrap around to 0.5 inch past the bend. The more evenly and securely we wrap on the wool, the easier our finishing is, so take your time with each step! Fold the bend in the pipecleaner tightly, and wrap remaining wool around the folded end . This gives a really nicely finished hand, with no wire ends exposed. If the hand looks too heavy or lumpy, just unwrap it, and start again with a smaller amount of wool. It's always better to work with less wool, and add a few more layers if necessary, than to have too much wool, and need to needelfelt indefinitely to get the size you want! Repeat on other side for the other hand. Wrap a small amount of tunic color around arms, Start at one end of the arms, and wrap the wool around until you reach the other hand. As you wrap, pull on the wool roving a little, and as you near the end you will just be left with a few fibers. You will probably be able to wrap evenly to the other hand, then start wrapping back towards the middle to finish. Wrap these last fibers around tightly and the wool will hold itself in place. Once the arms are wrapped, roll them gently in your hands to secure the wool ends. Take a piece of your leggings color wool, about 4 inches by 6 inches, and roll it up tightly. Needlefelt over the leg, remembering to turn it over and work on all sides so it stays round. Leave about 1 inch at one end fluffy, to attach to the arms. Wrap the fluffy end of each leg around the middle of the arms, passing the extra wool around towards to middle, between the legs. This gives a little extra body shaping. Wrap some some tunic colored wool around the legs, just under the arms to start to build up the body shape. Wrap the wool over one shoulder, then under an arm, and back up and across the body, in a criss-cross pattern. Then wrap again just around the body under the arms, until it is nice and plump! The body will come down in size with needlefelting. Start to needelfelt the body. Felt all over, always turning to keep the shape rounded. Felt under the edge of the tunic to make it stand out a little from the legs. Felt under the arms to attach the body to the arms, and pull the body into a tunic shape. Using the strips of skintone wool roving, roll up a ball that is about 1.5 inches in diameter. Roll as if winding a ball of wool, keeping the surface as even as possible. If you find a little bit sticking out, roll the next wrap so that the bump is covered. Needelfelt lightly over the whole head, keeping the round shape. You can either needelfelt the whole head until it is the right size, or you can gently wet felt it. I like to do this in order to get a nice smooth surface for the face. Optional wetfelting: Apply a drop of natural dishsoap to the head. Hold it in the palm of one hand and very gently roll it with the other hand, not pressing or squeezing. After a minute or two you'll feel a felted skin on the surface, now roll more vigorously for another 2 minutes and rinse well under running water. Shape it into a nice round head and set aside to dry. Sew the head onto the body. You could needle felt, but I like to sew it to be sure it is well secured and ready for play! I sew through the body then through part of the bottom of the head, and work in this way around the whole head twice- I want to be sure it isn't going anywhere! At this moment the little doll comes to life! Select a piece of hat colored roving, that measures about 4 inches long by 2 inches wide. Wrap the roving around the head, keeping the face clear and covering the whole back of the head. Try to wrap it into a cone if possible, but this is not essential as we can needlefelt it into shape. Felt in lines from the head to the point of the hat. This will secure the wool for the hat, attach the hat to the head and begin the basic shaping. Shape the top by felting, working around the hat until you get it to nice tip. Felt the brim of the hat by needling up along the edge between the face and the hat wool. This helps define the face and tidies up any woolly fibers remaining there. Wool locks are great for hair and beards as they have all that natural crimp and curl. You can also use wool roving or yarn. To attach a beard, take a small amount of wool roving, or locks. Lay the fibers out, half over the face and half over the body. Felt along the chin line to attach. Then fold the top locks over, and felt along the chin line to hold in place. This gives the most natural beard look! To attach long hair, try the beard method but attach the wool along the hat line along the back. For short hair, just needelfelt a little wool roving, locks or yarn all along the underside of the hat. Check the face for an extra shaping required, A little extra needlefelting around the temples is usually good. For the boots wrap a small amount of wool around the bottom of the leg. Needelfelt all over. To shape the boot, needle felt only in a line about 0.5 inches up from the bottom, this will make a fold in the foot.Once the fold is in place, turn the boots and shape as you go. Do some felting on the bottoms of the boots to give a good sole (Because all the gnomes have good soles!). If you aren't using a separate boot color, use the same process as above without adding the extra wool. This will still make the foot shape at the bottom of the legs. I don't usually add faces to my gnomes, but if you'd like to- this is my method- it makes a nicely shaped eyes and mouths, without having them indented into the face. Use only a few fibers of wool, and needlefelt them in, only partially, and only in one spot. Don't pull your felting needle out all the way-just needle in the one spot. You'll see the wool fibers shortening as they get tucked into the skin. Leave a tuft sticking out. Clip off the tuft of wool fibers, as close into the skin as possible. Ta-daa! Use this method for the mouth also, but felt in a short line, maybe three needle widths across. If you want a little smile, felt the middle of the mouth downwards, toward the chin. Clip off any extra fibers. Needle felt a little heart onto the gnomes tunic, and then, if you haven't already, decide to which special person your little love gnome will be giving his heart! I'm giving away two finished Love Gnomes or 2 kits for making your own. Please leave a comment below to enter. I'll draw two names on January 25th, and the winners can each chose either the kits or the finished gnomes. Good luck! Enjoy! Fiona
Il y a quelques mois, lors d'une soirée entre copines, nous avons craqué sur un tuto permettant de réaliser de petits personnages en tricot. L'explication était super claire et simple, et m'a permis de créer Myrtille : Emballée par le résultat, j'ai...
Cardigan for dolls 12-12,5” and 16-16,5” tall 1 skein wool/soya or bamboo or cotton 3,5 mm (US 4) needles or size necessary to obtain correct gauge 1 button gauge: 20 st x 32 rows = 4” x 4” in stocking stitch
Small stuffed squirrel of felt. About 7 centimeters in height. Pattern of the squirrel. Pieces. No seam allowance. Sew the darts ...
In this bucket hat making guide, we’ll show you how to elevate your teddy bear’s wardrobe by crafting a stylish hat for your cuddly companion.
So remember the weaving we did at craft last week? This morning I've been weaving a bit more and made this ~ It is quite small and there is a tiny baby asleep inside... maybe he might be a Christmas child, tho he would need a mother, and a father and a whole bunch of animals plus those wise men...hmmm The wee girl quite likes it, I could just give him to her. If you would like to make a little basket or something similar it is quite simple: You will need something to weave; this one is made using seagrass but you could use rope or thick twine too. For the stitching I used 8 ply mohair wool but again whatever you have that is strong and flexible will work. This little basket above used about a metre of seagrass (i think..) So, last week Sonia showed us the lazy squaw stitch and I asked her permission to take a few pictures to put here but they are not very clear, sorry. For a round basket, thread a length of yarn onto a blunt wool needle then hold your yarn and seagrass together with their blunt ends opposite and overlapping an inch or so. Start wrapping the yarn around the seagrass so it covers the yarn that you lay down to begin... It will be around 16-18 wraps (depending on your yarn) then you will need to coil the wrapped seagrass really tightly and hold it (this sounds a bit easier than it actually is) Ok, loop your yarn up over the coil, take the needle and thread it through the centre hole, do it again - you are aiming to secure the centre of your basket with these stitches. Now you can start weaving ~ The lazy squaw stitch is worked at a couple of short wraps and a long stitch.Wrap the thread over and around the loose seagrass twice, then wrap over once more putting your needle between the centre of the coil and back out on the inside. Work around the circle in this fashion except on the second and subsequent rounds your long stitch goes into the row beside/below the one you are wrapping. These are not very clear instructions.. but it will start to look like this When you get to the end of your length of yarn or you want to change colours weave the yarn between the twisted seagrass strands (you can just see it in this picture) to add a new length weave from the long end of seagrass back toward where you left off. Both the ends will be wrapped and woven into the basket with the stitching. To make little handles, bend up a section and wrap as many times as you need to, then bend it back to the basket edge and make a long stitch on either side. To finish off your basket split and unwind the sea grass. Trim off the strands on a diagonal then wrap and stitch weaving it in gradually overlapping the row below. I did a quick google search and found this site which has lots of interesting bits of information and possibly clearer instructions ~ the lazy squaw stitch is toward the bottom.
Here is what we made at the preschool this week. I have long been enchanted by Salley Mavor's use of milkweed pods for her wee folk, so I knew immediately when I stumbled across this beautiful post at Twig and...
Also known as a Duduza Doll – simple starter project! pics via pinterest
It's the question I get asked over and over: where can I get wool for my appliqué ? Many people ask me about finding quality supplies for their hand-stitching projects. To help answer those questions, I am starting this blog series, In Search of Supplies. Today I’m covering the search for wool to use in your next applique project, with a focus on new wool. (Look for a post about vintage wool in the future.) In the meantime, I want to take you through the main kinds of wool that I use in my work,
Copyright 2009 Denise Ferragamo By artist Denise Ferragamo. Check out my blog for more information about me and my work - iktomiclay.blogspot.com
I love felt stars, especially pointy ones, and I love sewing wool felt with the blanket stitch. I must admit; however, stitching points is not my favorite part of creating a holiday ornament. The more I make, though, the better I get :)
cross stitch embroidery, technical
