DIY Crafts and Dollhouses

Here are various kinds of pink flowered doll house wallpaper and border for you to use free for personal use. Have fun! This last one is a sheet of pink daisy border:

Making a quilt for a dollhouse can be something that you love or hate to do, since it will take some detailed hand-sewing or small…

Make a custom board and batten wall for the Ikea Flisat dollhouse. Includes a free PDF download with cut list and gluing template. Beginner-friendly!

Let me start with this thought-there are alot of ways to wallpaper and this is the way I put up wallpaper. The wallpaper I have applied has stayed over 25 years, so I know it works. The wallpaper I like best is the thicker wallpaper. My favorite...

Join my journey in restoring this vintage dollhouse for my daughter! | Frankie's Dollhouse: Doing The Wallpaper!

I'm such a terrible blogger! I have been so wrapped up in just creating, I have been neglecting my duties to share! I just finished up working on my kitchen, and although I forgot to photograph my progress, I did go ahead and make a small cabinet for anyone who may be interested in making their own. These are non-functional cabinets and really pretty easy to make. I will make a future post on how I made the fridge and stove (not the one pictured, I haven't made the one I want yet, but I promise to take pics!) Basic Supplies: 1/8" Basswood sheets (I used 3" wide by 24") 1/2" x 1/16" Strips of Basswood 1/4" x 1/16" Strips of Basswood 1/8" x 1/16" Strips of Basswood Tools for cutting your basswood, I have a mini scroll saw I used mainly, but an exacto knife and straight edge work too Ruler, pencil, paint, brushes...you know, the basics A good glue, I used wood glue and and tacky glue for most of the building. Pokey Clay Tool (Yep, I have no idea what it's actually called) So these cabinets are pretty simple, they are basically just a box with some pretty frills. I started by figuring out the configuration I wanted. I have an extremely small nook to work with so I was trying to make the best use of space without it looking cluttered. To get an exact floor layout, I just laid pieces of copy paper on the floor and taped them together to get the exact dimensions (because who measures?). I then drew out the layout on the paper. I planned on doing my cabinets in 3 sets, the fridge, the corner and the shelf unit that is in the dining area. So taking basic cabinet measurements, I cut out my pieces following my layout. I used 1/8" basswood to build the basic shell, and I knew I would be adding 1/16" pieces to the front, so I accounted for all of that in my cutting. The side pieces were all cut at 1 13/16" W x 2 7/8" H. I cut out a 3/16" deep by 1/4" tall notch for the kick plates along the bottom. The front pieces were cut the width of my cabinet face and only 2 5/8" H to account for the kick plate. The back piece was the total cabinet face length minus 1/4". The measurements on my island were a little different, I made it deeper than a normal cabinet and I was finishing the back, so I took that into consideration in my side piece measurements. I attached the back piece to one of the side pieces, I wanted it in between the side pieces just for appearance purposes. After that was dry, I attached the other side and then the front. To attach the front I flipped it upside down just to get the top flush with the sides. On this example cabinet I did a "fancy" side and a side that wouldn't ever be seen. Since the left of this cabinet won't be seen, I added the first trim piece. This is what makes up the look of the cabinet frame. I used 1/8" x 1/16" basswood strips. If you aren't planning on having either side showing, you can skip the next few steps. If you are planning on both of your cabinet sides showing, don't add any trim pieces to the front yet. Also, do not add the kick plate yet as you see in my photo. (I may have forgotten my own steps lol.) You will want to trim the fancy sides of your cabinet if it's going to be seen. I went with a simple trim here, you can go fancier or you could technically not add any trim either if that suits your fancy. On my kitchen island I added shiplap before doing any trim pieces, I'll add a blurb about that at the end. Once your sides are all complete, you can then add the kick plate on the bottom and trim around the outside of the cupboard front. In the photo above I am getting ready to trim out for the drawer. I kept things simple and went with 1/2" tall drawer fronts. Do not attach the drawer front yet! It's just there to serve as a spacer. Or if you like, you could measure like normal people probably do :) With the spacer drawer front in place, glue down the trim below it and then remove the drawer front. To make larger cabinets that had multiple doors, I added trim only between different door sets. If a door set had two doors that "opened" to the same space I did not use a spacer. Once all the trim facings are on, it's time to paint. I use normal latex paint in a satin or eggshell finish. Usually two coats of coverage is fine. I also painted the front and edges of my drawer front and a long strip of 1/4" x 1/16" basswood to use as my door trims. I painted these separately to keep paint from filling in the edges that I wanted to appear as though it were a real door. Once all the painting is done, I glued in my drawer front and also the pieces for my door. I cut the door pieces with a 45 degree mitre because I prefer that look, but you can straight cut the edges as well. Again, I didn't measure those, I usually just cut one of the ends at an angle and hold it in place and mark the outer edge of my next angle cut. I also tried not to make the drawer and door pieces too tight of a fit, it looks kind of like poo right now, but the next step really helps clean up the edges. I used my pointy clay thingamatool (I'm positive thats the correct term) and using a little pressure scored around the edges. I did this a few times going a little deeper each time. On pieces that were a little tight, like the right side of the door in the photo above, I used either a straight edge as a guide or very lightly started the line. After that is done, I added a small amount of paintable caulk to the door corners, being careful not to get it in the edges of the door. If a little gets in there, I just used my pointy thingamabob again to carefully get it out. I also use q-tips and a damp cloth to get off any excess. Final step is to touch up any paint, especially anywhere you caulked. Add your hardware and counter of choice and you have a custom little cabinet! * Shiplap* If you want to add shiplap to the sides of your cabinets like I did on my island, paint the cabinet shell first and paint the shiplap boards separately. This will give a cleaner appearance without getting paint in the cracks. I found just one quick coat of paint on the cabinet base and sides of the shiplap boards is plenty and I did two coats on the fronts of the boards. I used 1/2" basswood strips for all my shiplap in my house. If you choose to shiplap, I would suggest ship lapping the sides of the cabinet before you start assembling the cabinet base to allow for the extra 1/16" that is being added. Original Post: January 29, 2020

I thought I would show you how to make a simple interior door and jamb from mat board. I took the opening measurement from the Hobby Builder's catalog so this door is standard for today's dollhouses. Once you have learned the method you can make doors of different dimensions. I have bought lots of books from Dover Publishers.com. This book is very good for doors and windows. It doesn't give measurements but the ideas are great. Some examples of the pages. I will begin with the jamb or the frame in which the door sets. The Hobby Builder's catalog listed the opening as 3" wide, 7" high and 3/8" deep. Cut strips of mat board 3/8" wide. Cut at least 40". I am going to be using yellow carpenter's glue through out this tutorial. Cut 4 pieces of the mat board 7" long, that's in the picture above. Glue two pieces together and glue another two pieces together. You now have two pieces 7" long that are double thickness of mat board. Cut from the mat board 3 pieces 2 3/4" long. Glue two of these pieces together. Leave the third piece for later. Cut 1/8" wide strips from mat board, at least 20". Measure and mark on the doubled strips of mat board the center, 3/16" from either side. Glue the 1/8" wide strip along the line. There will be 3/16" left on one side. This is called the "stop". It stops the door so it only swings one way. Here are the three pieces of the jamb with the stop glued on. There are two sides and one top. Pay attention to how I have this laid out. With your craft knife cut off 1/8" of the stop at the top of one side. Do the same thing with the other side. This is what the top of the side should look like after you've made the cut. I am holding the top of the jamb in my hand. The side in on the table. The top fits down onto the side. The stop should line up all around. I have the sides glued to the top. Do you see that the sides are covering the ends of the top? Look at the stop, it is lined up all around. Now, for the third piece of 3/8" wide mat board you set aside earlier, this is the bottom of the jamb or threshold. Measure and mark the center, then mark 1/8" away from that. Use your craft knife to cut on the marks. Cut 1/16" deep. This is the threshold with the cuts made. Use 220 grit sand paper to round off the long edges of the threshold. Glue the threshold to the bottom of the jamb. The stop is in the openings you cut out. Showing another view of the threshold. Please let this dry. I measured the inside of the jamb for the measurement of the door. I left a little play, that's carpenter talk for extra space between the door and jamb. This measurement is 2 11/16" x 6 3/4". Cut this from mat board. This is my cut sheet. I've drawn the door in 1 inch scale and then measured what I need to cut. You will notice I've got my 3/8" measurements together then I've got an oddball 3/4" measurement and then the 9/16" measurements are together. If you are using a table saw or mat cutting system this makes it easy to follow. Set the width once and make those cuts and move onto the next one. You will have all your strips cut to width. All you will have to do is measure for the length and cut. I've got my 3/8" strips cut. I've cut 4 of the 3/8" strips 6 3/4" long and glued them along the sides of the door. I've done this to both sides of the door. Although I have the length written down I usually just dry fit and mark with a pencil where I need to cut for length. I will do this for the rest of the door, both sides. I use my square and craft knife to cut the strips to length. I've got a 3/8" strip at the top, 3/4" strip in the lower middle and a 9/16" strip at the bottom. I do this for both sides. Just a word here, this would make a fine door right now if you want. I am dry fitting and marking for the center pieces, they are from 3/8" strips. I've got the center strips glued in, both sides. I want to show you something. Do you see the two pencil marks on the top strip? I am measuring for the center. This is an old carpenter's trick, the old carpenter being my husband, HA! You don't have to divide fractions. I'm using a scrap of mat board. Lay your ruler down, it's length is between the 1/16 and 1/8 inch marks. Make a pencil mark at what looks to be over half to you. Remember the measurement, mine is 1 11/16". I am measuring from the left side. Now, I've rotated the mat board and I am measuring from the other side, 1 11/16". I've made a pencil mark. You should be able the "eye" the center without measuring. Use 220 grit sand paper to round off the square edges of the mat board. Don't do the outside edges of the door just the inside of the rectangles you made with the strips. Just a note here, this makes a fine door right now. To imitate the raised panels we will cut from the 9/16" wide strips of mat board 4 pieces 3 1/4" long and 4 pieces 1 1/4" long. Use 220 grit sand paper to round off all 4 sides of these pieces. After you have rounded off the edges glue these pieces into the center of the rectangles of the door, both sides. I've got the door just setting in the jamb. I am using scrap mat board from a framer. Got a good buy on some large pieces for $3.00 and $5.00 a piece. They were discontinued colors. Last time I bought a piece from Michael's it was $15.00! Going to make the trim for the jamb. Cut from mat board a few pieces, enough for both sides of the door, a fat 1/8" wide and 5/16" wide. Glue the fat 1/8" strip to one side of the 5/16" strip. Use 220 grit sand paper to round off the the edges of the strips. I use The Chopper for my mitres. I've made the first cut. I have no trick for you in cutting mitres, I am sorry. It's all in the measuring, measure twice, cut once. Glue the trim onto the jamb, on the outside piece of mat board. Leave the inside piece showing, that's called the reveal. That's why I doubled the mat board on the jamb so we would have something to glue to, even if it is a single piece of 1/16" thick piece of mat board. The jamb is going to be glued into a door opening. I have the trim glued on. Cut two of everything so you have trim for the other side of the door jamb. You will put that on after you have the door and jamb in the opening. I used 180 grit sand paper to sand round one side of the door. This makes it easier for the door to swing with a pin hinge. The rounded side is the side that will have the pin hinge. That's all I use. I haven't gotten to putting real hinges on, yet. I have a small stash of these short thick brass pins, I don't know where I got them from. You can use a straight pin or dollhouse nails for the hinge. Putting the pins in is a little tricky. Place the door into the jamb and mark on the door and jamb, have the marks line up. You want to be 3 /32" from the edge of the door. Your door is 3/16" thick, you want to have the pin in the middle of that. Transfer the 3/32" mark to the top and bottom of the jamb and drill using a tiny drill bit. You don't have to drill into the door, only through the top and bottom of the jamb. The pin will go into the door pretty easily. Insert your pins. Don't worry if you don't succeed on the first try. If you make too many attempts just put glue in the holes, let dry and try again tomorrow. Tigger's on my table. I hope you try this out. I had this made in a couple of hours, that beats waiting for it being shipped. Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . . . . Just Keep Making Minis! TTUL Kris P.S. I added a picture showing one of the pins in the bottom of the jamb or threshold. A pin goes in the top of the jamb, too. The pins are inserted into the side of the door that you rounded off with sand paper. I hope this helps a little more.

I made a popsicle stick floor in the attic of my doll house, and I wanted to make it look old and dirty because I'm…

FacebookTweetPinShareEmailLike When it comes to showcasing your wonderful dollhouse creations, the right display can make all the difference. Displaying your ... Read more

Download free doll house wallpaper printables in 1:12th scale and 1:6th scale and change your dollhouse interior on a budget

This vintage Hanse dollhouse gets a renovation! It came to me in disassembled parts, so putting it together was quite an experience. Check it out here!

Make your own dollhouse kitchen cabinets that fit the Ikea Flisat house with this DIY Tutorial! All you need is paper and thin basswood sheets.

Create miniature tile flooring for your dollhouse or diorama using a simple technique of scoring photo paper.

In this post I'll be sharing updates and progress photos of my dollhouse renovation projects ft. a DIY shingle roof and windows.

In this post I'll be sharing the intro to a new dollhouse renovation series and a list of helpful resources for dollhouse miniatures and DIYs. Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. If you make a purchase through a link, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. Welcome to my new

I am finally sharing with y'all the dollhouse I fixed up for my daughter for Christmas! I am sharing how I installed the wallpaper and flooring!

I thought I would show you how to make a simple interior door and jamb from mat board. I took the opening measurement from the Hobby Builder's catalog so this door is standard for today's dollhouses. Once you have learned the method you can make doors of different dimensions. I have bought lots of books from Dover Publishers.com. This book is very good for doors and windows. It doesn't give measurements but the ideas are great. Some examples of the pages. I will begin with the jamb or the frame in which the door sets. The Hobby Builder's catalog listed the opening as 3" wide, 7" high and 3/8" deep. Cut strips of mat board 3/8" wide. Cut at least 40". I am going to be using yellow carpenter's glue through out this tutorial. Cut 4 pieces of the mat board 7" long, that's in the picture above. Glue two pieces together and glue another two pieces together. You now have two pieces 7" long that are double thickness of mat board. Cut from the mat board 3 pieces 2 3/4" long. Glue two of these pieces together. Leave the third piece for later. Cut 1/8" wide strips from mat board, at least 20". Measure and mark on the doubled strips of mat board the center, 3/16" from either side. Glue the 1/8" wide strip along the line. There will be 3/16" left on one side. This is called the "stop". It stops the door so it only swings one way. Here are the three pieces of the jamb with the stop glued on. There are two sides and one top. Pay attention to how I have this laid out. With your craft knife cut off 1/8" of the stop at the top of one side. Do the same thing with the other side. This is what the top of the side should look like after you've made the cut. I am holding the top of the jamb in my hand. The side in on the table. The top fits down onto the side. The stop should line up all around. I have the sides glued to the top. Do you see that the sides are covering the ends of the top? Look at the stop, it is lined up all around. Now, for the third piece of 3/8" wide mat board you set aside earlier, this is the bottom of the jamb or threshold. Measure and mark the center, then mark 1/8" away from that. Use your craft knife to cut on the marks. Cut 1/16" deep. This is the threshold with the cuts made. Use 220 grit sand paper to round off the long edges of the threshold. Glue the threshold to the bottom of the jamb. The stop is in the openings you cut out. Showing another view of the threshold. Please let this dry. I measured the inside of the jamb for the measurement of the door. I left a little play, that's carpenter talk for extra space between the door and jamb. This measurement is 2 11/16" x 6 3/4". Cut this from mat board. This is my cut sheet. I've drawn the door in 1 inch scale and then measured what I need to cut. You will notice I've got my 3/8" measurements together then I've got an oddball 3/4" measurement and then the 9/16" measurements are together. If you are using a table saw or mat cutting system this makes it easy to follow. Set the width once and make those cuts and move onto the next one. You will have all your strips cut to width. All you will have to do is measure for the length and cut. I've got my 3/8" strips cut. I've cut 4 of the 3/8" strips 6 3/4" long and glued them along the sides of the door. I've done this to both sides of the door. Although I have the length written down I usually just dry fit and mark with a pencil where I need to cut for length. I will do this for the rest of the door, both sides. I use my square and craft knife to cut the strips to length. I've got a 3/8" strip at the top, 3/4" strip in the lower middle and a 9/16" strip at the bottom. I do this for both sides. Just a word here, this would make a fine door right now if you want. I am dry fitting and marking for the center pieces, they are from 3/8" strips. I've got the center strips glued in, both sides. I want to show you something. Do you see the two pencil marks on the top strip? I am measuring for the center. This is an old carpenter's trick, the old carpenter being my husband, HA! You don't have to divide fractions. I'm using a scrap of mat board. Lay your ruler down, it's length is between the 1/16 and 1/8 inch marks. Make a pencil mark at what looks to be over half to you. Remember the measurement, mine is 1 11/16". I am measuring from the left side. Now, I've rotated the mat board and I am measuring from the other side, 1 11/16". I've made a pencil mark. You should be able the "eye" the center without measuring. Use 220 grit sand paper to round off the square edges of the mat board. Don't do the outside edges of the door just the inside of the rectangles you made with the strips. Just a note here, this makes a fine door right now. To imitate the raised panels we will cut from the 9/16" wide strips of mat board 4 pieces 3 1/4" long and 4 pieces 1 1/4" long. Use 220 grit sand paper to round off all 4 sides of these pieces. After you have rounded off the edges glue these pieces into the center of the rectangles of the door, both sides. I've got the door just setting in the jamb. I am using scrap mat board from a framer. Got a good buy on some large pieces for $3.00 and $5.00 a piece. They were discontinued colors. Last time I bought a piece from Michael's it was $15.00! Going to make the trim for the jamb. Cut from mat board a few pieces, enough for both sides of the door, a fat 1/8" wide and 5/16" wide. Glue the fat 1/8" strip to one side of the 5/16" strip. Use 220 grit sand paper to round off the the edges of the strips. I use The Chopper for my mitres. I've made the first cut. I have no trick for you in cutting mitres, I am sorry. It's all in the measuring, measure twice, cut once. Glue the trim onto the jamb, on the outside piece of mat board. Leave the inside piece showing, that's called the reveal. That's why I doubled the mat board on the jamb so we would have something to glue to, even if it is a single piece of 1/16" thick piece of mat board. The jamb is going to be glued into a door opening. I have the trim glued on. Cut two of everything so you have trim for the other side of the door jamb. You will put that on after you have the door and jamb in the opening. I used 180 grit sand paper to sand round one side of the door. This makes it easier for the door to swing with a pin hinge. The rounded side is the side that will have the pin hinge. That's all I use. I haven't gotten to putting real hinges on, yet. I have a small stash of these short thick brass pins, I don't know where I got them from. You can use a straight pin or dollhouse nails for the hinge. Putting the pins in is a little tricky. Place the door into the jamb and mark on the door and jamb, have the marks line up. You want to be 3 /32" from the edge of the door. Your door is 3/16" thick, you want to have the pin in the middle of that. Transfer the 3/32" mark to the top and bottom of the jamb and drill using a tiny drill bit. You don't have to drill into the door, only through the top and bottom of the jamb. The pin will go into the door pretty easily. Insert your pins. Don't worry if you don't succeed on the first try. If you make too many attempts just put glue in the holes, let dry and try again tomorrow. Tigger's on my table. I hope you try this out. I had this made in a couple of hours, that beats waiting for it being shipped. Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . . . . Just Keep Making Minis! TTUL Kris P.S. I added a picture showing one of the pins in the bottom of the jamb or threshold. A pin goes in the top of the jamb, too. The pins are inserted into the side of the door that you rounded off with sand paper. I hope this helps a little more.

IKEA Dollhouse hack- Flisat wall shelf. Ideas for making DIY miniature furniture. This easy makeover has tutorials for the projects and links. How to update the roof. Perfect for a kids room!

In this post I'll be sharing updates and progress photos of my dollhouse renovation projects ft. wallpaper, DIY hardwood floors, and kitchen cabinets.

Get more from nimu1326 on Patreon

Want to add authentic detail to your dollhouse or miniature room? Try hand-crafted wainscoting made with cheap coffee stirrers, some elbow grease, and a bit of paint!

These are the parts I purchased I am making lights for the Sunflower Farmhouse, I wanted the look of oil lamps and just a more custom look in general. I wanted to try a LED lighting system but I really don't know much about it other than it it seems less expensive and it appears to give you more options. I've seen it being used mostly in trains and models but I have seen it in a few dollhouses. I thought I would give it a try to make my own and see if I could light the whole house with LED lights. So this post is for people like me. If you have tips please share. I ordered my LED lights from Evan Designs, I ordered the wire stripper they sell too. My regular wire stripper is too large for these tiny wires. I watched Evans Designs YouTube videos and I called them to ask for more information before I placed my order. The person I spoke to was very helpful. This bag contains the mega chip lights, which is the largest chip not bulb light they sell. I chose warm color instead of the white. This is what one mega chip light looks like, its very small and flat, despite it's name To test its brightness, I twisted the wires from the light to the ones from the battery adaptor together. Make sure you order or have a separate single battery or adaptor to test your lights. This was not permanent otherwise I would have used shrink tube to cover the exposed wires. Match the exposed part of the wires color to same color (red to red, etc). And make sure you twist them in a spiraling motion stretching out down the length of the exposed wire, one wire over the other underneath without the plastic coating. My light didn't work at first because the exposed wire of red color touched and made contact onto its self along with the opposite black color wire. I bought the battery adaptor with an on/off switch Here is a picture of it on I played around with the lights and the jewelry to get an idea of the possibilities. Hobby Lobby had a jewelry 50% off sale and these are some of the glasswork I bought for the lights. You can use almost any kind of glue right on top of the LEDs, you can use hot glue on the larger lights. I would not use supper glue on glass because it might fog it up. The top served off by unscrewing it I put the megs chip inside through the opening I wanted to see if the light would shine through these This is how bright they looked with the craft room light on, the magnifying effect seemed to make it bigger and brighter This set of bottles was a good value because it came with chains, which you can use in your lights. These reminded me of the flame shape bulbs used in a Chandelier I would use this in a modern house or a larger room because of the bottle. The openings were too small on the bottles below for the mega chip. So I ordered the smaller nano and pico chips to fit the bottles with the smaller openings. I also order the dollhouse/miniature light kits them offer. The business card is great, you can use the size chart to find the the light size or shape, that will fit in the opening of your project.

A modern dollhouse and miniatures blog by Kristine Hanna

Recreate the past with these vintage dollhouse newspaper and magazine template scans. For convenience, these miniature decor printables are pooled and complied into one simple page.

Having accidentally fallen into the world of doll's houses when buying a present for her new baby, self-confessed interiors nerd Lucy Clayton found herself thoroughly hooked. Here she recounts her family's journey through their first (but not last) miniature design project, complete with architectural advice from Ben Pentreath, roof repairs by a real builder, and pints of champagne on the dining table

In this post I'll be sharing updates and progress photos of my dollhouse renovation projects ft. a DIY shingle roof and windows.

I’m not gonna lie, we’ve removed (or demolished) a miniature staircase or two. However, in the case of the Long Farmhouse, we had so much space to work with that we actually installed one for once! I know, I know…don’t faint.

Good morning! Here is my attempt at a tutorial for how we made the cabinetry for our dollhouses. You can read more about the dollhouse kitchens here. You can also check out our highlights section on Instagram from pictures and to keep up with the room we are working on now (the study).Read More

Read the tutorial and learn how to make this stacked bead, scalloped rattan floor lamp in 1:12 scale.

Ikea Flisat dollhouse hacks to turn your Flisat dollhouse into the dollhouse you always dreamed of. Simple ideas as well as detailed makeovers.

For centuries, dollhouses were less of a toy in the corner of the playroom, and more of a work of art.

Learn how to make faux kitchen cabinets out of paper for a 1:12 dollhouse.

Learn about a few different ways to update your dollhouse walls and floors.