It's already the first remodel, and I only began my dollhouse pursuit a few months ago. The kitchen needed an upgrade, when I decided to move the cooker (thats what they call the fancy European stoves) over between the countertops. After I moved the cooker to the cabinet wall, I moved the bakers rack I made over to the same wall, and hung it above one of the base cabinets. This was the layout before, a simple country kitchen for the servants. Hahah. There is always a running story behind every dollhouse, don't you know. The before layout had the bakers rack over the cooker. Which in real life would be FOOLISH because all the cooking grease and steam would go over all the copper pans and utensils. So I decided to make a European style fancy vent hood to go with the fancy cooker. It was built from balsa wood scraps and a piece of heavy paper for the curved part. Store bought miniature corbels were added to the bottom for that fancy old world flair. I primed the wood with gesso and then I noticed after I sprayed it with the shiny green paint I had used for the cooker, that there were splotchy shiny areas and the paper was mostly dull. It occurred to me that anywhere the gesso had touched the paper, that was where the paint did its proper thing and had a glossy shine. So I went back and primed the paper area of the hood with the gesso, and then sprayed again with the Krylon seafoam green paint. Then I applied "brass" strips to the hood using card stock that had been wrapped in gold metallic paper and tacky glue. They looked awesome!! The thing was FANCY!!! It made the kitchen way more FANCY! But something wasn't fancy at all.... The hanging light was NOT fancy. It was a simple country kitchen light fixture. It had to go. Goodbye tiny copper lantern. Hello big French chandelier! The kitchen also finally got a refrigerator and another bakers rack to hold more copper and our farm fresh eggs. One more look at how amazing it looks from EVERY angle. And.... The Kitchen Aid mixer got upgraded to the copper version like the one in my own tiny real life kitchen. You see that is the fun part. Making things resemble your favorite parts of your home, and then adding FANCY things you WISH you had, but sadly DO NOT. And while I tried to take a few quick pics with my FANCY camera, a little hand snuck in while my eye was firmly resting on the camera. As I snapped the pic, I heard her say in her little voice: "Broken" I popped my head up and saw that she had yanked off the cabinet door. You see the doors and drawers are false fronts and she is very intent on opening and closing anything she can get her hands on. I told her, "Grammy will fix it." And then quickly ushered Reeve right back to her own little dollhouse. It is filled with colorful inexpensive vintage dollhouse parts I have been finding with the help of my sister, Ellen. It is everything a little girl would want. Where she played happily for quite some time, and only broke a few things.
Miniature French Bergere Chair in the Louis XVI Style . This French chair is elegance, the cane work on this chair is incredible as is the reproduction fabrics used. The chair is in a natural wood tone, with gold accents. The 18th Century French Chinoiserie is beautiful. Please not cushions are attached to chair. This listing is just for the chair, other items shown may still be available, as they are sold separately. Measurements in Centimeters: Chair Height: 8.0 CM Width: 6.0 CM Depth: 5.0 CM ****Please READ Buyer Responsibility************** My items are only listed for sale on Etsy, they are not authorized to be listed on any other website. If you have any questions about this item, or anything you have read here, I encourage you to contact me prior to purchasing. Items will be packed and shipped with the greatest care, but please note my responsibility with the item ends when when the item is given to the shipper. I cannot be responsible for shipping delays, how items arrive due to shipper handling, items lost in shipping, or items that are stolen at point of delivery. Please note that free shipping does not cover Signature on Receipt or Insurance. These items are an additional charge, if you are interested in either of these services please let me and I will set up a payment listing for these services. Please make sure your address has been verified by Etsy, shipping delays can happen with unverified addresses. International Clients: Please contact me prior to purchasing, due to COVID-19 there might be shipping restrictions to your country. Also, International shipping is experiencing long delays in customs. If you are purchasing from overseas, expect a 21 to 28 day delay, or possibly up to eight weeks for your item to arrive. NOTE**** This miniature is not a toy, and is not intended for small children or pets, as these pieces can pose a choking hazard.***** By purchasing the item(s), you agree to to the above. American Folk Artist-Thomas Gottlick-Creator of Trianon Petit Miniatures, and Jason Huggins Co-Creator.
TWO miniature wooden dollhouse side/occasional tables. Both sealed and one stained. Larger table is French Provencial and would look beautiful with a gold (or grayish-white finish with gold trim) accent. The smaller table has unique octagon lower shelf with four 'bun' style feet. (Actually, if turned upside down, it could actually be a receptacle for freshly spun wool)! They measure: larger - 1 3/4"H x 2"L x 1 1/2"D...smaller is 1 1/2"H x 2"W x 1 1/4"D. NOTE: I do NOT ship outside the continental U.S. I prefer payment via PayPal (unless another process is approved by me before purchasing).
Il lavoro degli altri può essere una importante fonte d’ispirazione e ci aiuta a crescere. Nel web ci sono tantissimi miniaturisti talentuosi ed è stupefacente vedere quello che riescono a cr…
For those of you that have ever done any derelict digging of their own on the net, it's likely you would have come across a photograph of this room with its impressive circular stained glass window and the decaying leather armchair sat facing it. This is the Chateau de Pont Remy Somme, also known a
Gregory Paul
French artist Marc Giai-Miniet packs hidden stories and scenarios into small and elaborate dioramas, a craft that he has been pursuing since the 1990s. This month his work is on display at New Yor...
My French Dollhouse, The Petite Maison, is a work in progress. The exterior is looking so much more French now! This is the dollhouse how I found it at the consignment shop. It was nicely built from plywood, with the exterior painted, but not much else. When I saw it, I thought the roofline looked very French, and I could modify the house to give it that Frenchy look. I also knew I needed to replace the railing system that was on the little roof deck area. ( Inspiration: a real French Chateau) Notice the roofline, which is similar to my dollhouse. A big part is accessorizing the dollhouse interior to give it the French flavor with rustic yet fancy, shabby and cottage, and of course luxe elements that I dream up in my head. The more I add to a room, the better it looks, yet dollhouse decorating (for me) runs a fine line of being cluttered and too much if one overdoes it. The salon (living room) is feeling quite nice now, with the lived in details of a tote bag with magazines, some flowers on the table, a candelabra with pretty little shades that give the room extra dose of personality. An old piece of lace, trimmed to be a mantel scarf over the marble, some flowers and a vase, magazines on tabletops, these are the little details that make a mini house a real looking home. This brass candelabra is a common one that many miniaturists buy, as it is affordable. I darkened mine up to look tarnished, then I made some shades to turn it into a lamp. This is the pattern I created to make shades. I add the glue to the tab section when I attach it. Curling the shade pattern around a pencil helps to give it a rounded dispostion which is helpful too. I cut up a gift bag that had pretty patterns and used the checkered part to make the gingham look I wanted. Then I stuffed a little piece of packing peanut foam inside the shade so it could sit on top of the candle and not fall. It looked so charming on the vintage bombe chest I found on Etsy. After I made the shades, I tried to make hatboxes using the same gift bag paper. These little things are hard for me to make, and I imagine it will get easier. They add the old fashioned details I want for the bedrooms, and I will be making more. There is much to do, and the house is evolving. I found some pieces at a thrift shop, and added them to the "music room". A very nice white overstuffed sofa, and some mahogany pieces, that will be customized to fit my style. I am obsessed with working on the house, and am getting much pleasure creating and finding things for my Petite Maison. Winter has finally arrived with an arctic blast and snow and ice.... The nice thing about dollhouse decorating is one can stay inside and survive the long winter quite happily!
NYC. 28.
Today, I will show you how to make a daybed for your 1/12 scale dollhouse. You will need: -1/16" x 4" x 24" bass wood(http://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Wood-Crafting/Unfinished-Wood/1/16%22-x-4%22-x-24%22-4%22-Wide-Basswood-Sheets/p/29804) -All purpose glue(I use Aleene's) -Paint -sandpaper -craft knife/box cutter -legs(I used stair spindles. You can use any 1/8" dowel.) First, let's cut the wood. I used a small box cutter. A craft knife works too. You need a back piece and bottom piece(same size): 6 1/4" x 2 3/4". The 2 side pieces are 2 7/8" x 2 3/8". And the bottom rail is 1/2" x 6 1/4". Lets make the back of the bed a little more interesting by cutting a nice detail at the top. I cut 2 1/8" from the side and 3/8" from the top. Now the sides of the bed will be even with the back where they meet at the corners. I drew a line all around the back and 2 sides 1/4" from the edge. I'm going to cut a channel all around to make a nice groove detail. I used the Xacto knife to cut and lift the wood. Don't cut too deep. We only want to take off one layer of wood. Remove the wood inside this little channel you cut. Sand inside the groove. Also sand all the edges of your sides and back pieces of the day bed. It's now time to glue the bottom of the bed. I marked all the pieces to make sure the bottom will be straight. I drew this line 1/2" from the bottom. We'll be using the 1/2" rail we cut out earlier in the front of the bed under the bottom. Glue everything together. I glued the bottom to the back first and then each side. Lastly, I glued the 1/2" rail to the front, under the bottom and between the sides. Let the glue dry completely(or the wood will warp and un-glue with the paint). To make the pretty decorative relief I used cardstock and cardboard. To make a flower, I used cardstock cut into a flower shape. The flower shape is 3/8". I use 3 flower shapes to make 1 rose. The middle is rolled and glued onto one flower shape and then glued onto one more flower shape. The leaves are cut out of cardboard(like the cardboard from a cereal box). Make a pretty composition. You will want to harden the flowers or they will loose their shape with the paint. I used Modge Podge. You can also use white glue. Let dry completely. The legs of the bed are 1 1/8". I used stair rails that I cut to size. But a simple dowel 1/8" in diameter works too. Glue your legs in place and allow to dry completely. Once everything has dried, we can paint! For a true shabby chic I would first paint this bed grey, let dry, cover with glue, let that dry for 5 minutes and apply a thick coat of white paint. You would get a gorgeous crackle effect. For this bed I painted mine with 2 coats of white. Then I took a pencil that I cut with my box cutter to expose more of the lead and applied it into the grooves and around the edges. The more you apply the more dramatic the effect. I did mine pretty light. Once you wet the lead with your last coat of white paint, you will get a soft grey highlight to all the places where you applied the lead. The mattress base is a piece of cardboard 2 5/8" wide x 6 1/8" long. I hot glued some stuffing/pillow filler on top of the cardboard and trimmed it neatly. There's 1 3/4" of stuffing on my bed. Next, I covered with fabric. The fabric piece is 8 3/4"x 4 3/4". Hot glue the cardboard mattress to the bed. Now dress the bed with bed skirt, blankets, pillows. I put a dot of glue to hold the blankets in place. Some places I used hot glue. For the pillows, I fill them with candle filler sand. This makes the pillows heavier and more realistic. That's it! You're done. Enjoy your new daybed!
This post is part of the Sewing Back-to-School series, 30 days of helpful sewing articles by guest bloggers. Feel free
This is the project for this month. This French chaise is made from card stock, foam core and mat board. You could trim off the front of the chaise and make a chair. The chaise in front, the one with the patterned fabric is a little longer than the pattern included. It was my prototype for the blog and I felt the chaise needed to be a little shorter. The length is up to you if you want to change it. Below are the patterns. On the left side of the blog is a listing, "Things to do, Things to see", in this listing is a post, "HOW TO RE-SIZE THE PATTERNS"; please use these directions to print the patterns out to the correct size. For a form for the back I used the top of a solid air freshener container. (The other line you see is from my first attempt. The chaise was too small.) I have been told that Renuzit has changed their packaging!!!! Use the seat base as a guide to find something else for a form. The back has to fit around the seat base, look for something that fits in that space. You could also cut a form from foam core using the seat base pattern. I would probably cut 3 layers of foam core and glue them together for a form. Just use the part of the pattern that will be where the back is. You don't have to have the rest of the seat base. Measure down from the small end 2 1/8 inches. Make marks all around and then fill in to make a solid line all around. Cut out your back pattern and trace it onto a piece of card stock. Mark a center line on the front. Cut the back out, don't cut on the line this time. Leave extra card stock all around. Spread wood glue on the back of your back. Place the first back onto card stock and press all of the glue out. Cut these 2 backs out, again don't cut on the line, yet. Spread glue on the back you just cut out and place it onto another piece of card stock. Press all of the glue out and make sure you have all 3 layers glued together well. Now, you cut the back out following the line. Mark a center line on the back of the back, too. With the glue still wet bend the back around the air freshener and secure with a rubber band or two. (I like these rubber bands. I get them when I buy fresh broccoli.) Leave this to dry. This piece needs to be stiff when we begin to work with it. If you do this first thing in the morning you should be able to work with it after lunch. While the back is drying cut out your base pattern and trace it onto 1 layer of 3/16 inch thick foam core. Mark a center line on the base. Cut the base out. Cut the back frame pattern out. You can trace this onto card stock, 6 times or you can copy it using your computer printer. I ran out of ink so I traced mine 6 times. Cut out the back frames. Mark centers on one side of each frame. Set these aside until the back is dry and stiff. I know there are machines that scrap bookers use to cut shapes out. This pattern piece is a good candidate for this machine. THIS IS OPTIONAL I have traced the outside edge of the back frame onto card stock. I am making marks all around the inside edge of the traced line. I am measuring 3/32 inch away from the outside line. When I am done measuring and making the marks I fill in by drawing a solid line. I am going to make two of these to add to the back of the chaise. This will add more surface interest. I did not do this on the shabby chic chaise, I did it on the gold one. You can look at the pictures at the end of the blog to see what both styles look like. In this picture I have glued, using wood glue, three pieces of mat board together and have it clamped to dry. This is for the legs, I am going to use my scroll saw to cut out the six legs. Six legs are an option, you may want to just use 4. If you scroll down you find a picture showing the unfinished chaise with 4 legs. I like 6 so I am using 6. If you are using a craft knife you will need to trace the leg onto mat board 18 times, 12 times if you are using only 4 legs. I know, that's a lot of tracing. You could copy the leg pattern onto paper using the printer and glue the paper onto the mat board and then cut out the leg pieces. This will take time, but I think it's worth it. Take your time, take a break and come back to it. I have the six legs traced. I am about to cut out the legs and I thought I would show you my scroll saw. These really make good Christmas presents. And . . . if you have one of these you could use 3/16 inch thick bass wood instead of 3 layers of mat board. My legs are cut out. I want the glue to dry more on these because I will be sanding off the square edges later. If you have your 18 legs cut out you now have to glue them together. Use wood glue and press them together tightly. Let them dry. Wipe a little glue along the edges of the legs, too, this will help seal the paper. Take a break and let the glue dry, it's best not to rush this process. When the back is stiff take it off the form (top of air freshener container) and place it onto the base matching center lines. I know I don't have one drawn, but you do! Straighten and shape the sides. Use wood glue to glue the outside back frames on. I begin with gluing the center first. Don't skimp on the glue, the glue will wet the card stock and let you ease the back frame into place, whether you have to stretch or move the frame around a bit. The outside of the back is getting bigger with every layer of card stock and all of the frames are cut the same size. This works for me so I don't make any changes to the size of the frames. Be sure to press the card stock together tightly when you have the frame in place, this is important for the final look. Wipe the glue off the edges. Keep a wet rag close and keep your fingers clean. Glue on the fingers will make the card stock back frame stick to you. I have the 3 outside back frames glued onto the back of the back. For the inside frames I found that if I cut the center bottom out it was easier to fit the frame into the back. With every layer of card stock the inside is getter smaller so we will have to compress the frames a bit. In this picture you can see that I haven't yet discovered that cutting out the center back helps a bit. You may also have to cut the arm section because there will be too much frame to fit. I've cut the card stock back frame. I've cut the trimmed off the tiny bit of extra and glued the ends down. Continue gluing until you have all 3 frames on the inside of the back. Don't forget to be pressing the edges together tightly. Here are the OPTIONAL extra pieces that I am going to glue onto the top of the outside of the back. I have cut the optional pieces out. I've glued the optional pieces onto the outside of the back. Here are all of the layers of card stock glued together with wood glue. I hope you have tried to keep all of these edges neat and even. This is the back ready to be glued onto the base. The top of the center back has a little place that you could glue on some decoration. I am using a heart punch for mine. I used 3 layers of card stock for the hearts. Glue the back onto the base and hold with a rubber band. Straighten and shape the arms. Please let this dry before you go onto the next step. This is a side view of the assembly. When the glue in the legs is dry you can sand off the sharp edges using 180 grit paper. If any paper starts to come off or come apart glue it back on or back together and set that leg aside and start to sand another leg. Yes, this is tedious. Yes, you could use bass wood and you wouldn't have to worry about the mat board coming apart, but you would also have to have a scroll saw. Wooden cabriole legs are available from Hobby Builders, on their on-line store, but they are too long to use. You would have to sand the sharp edges of off them, too. When these mat board legs are sanded, sealed and painted you can't tell that they aren't wood. This is the picture of the chaise with 4 legs. When the glue has dried on the back and base you can glue the legs into the notches. DRY FIT THE LEGS AND TRIM THE NOTCHES IF NEEDED. If you want 6 legs you will have to cut 2 more notches in the base. Cut the notches, dry fit the legs and if they fit glue them in. I like the chaise with 6 legs. Just a note here, but you could cut off the front of the base and make a chair out of this pattern, also. This is the front of the shabby chic chaise. First, I cut strips of card stock the thickness of the base and glued this on the base to cover the foam core. Next, I punched out a heart for the center and cut a narrow strip of card stock to fit all around the base of the chaise. For the gold chaise I am going to add a half circle at the center front of the chaise. I used my circle template to draw the half circle. The strip of card stock is the thickness of the foam core. I glued on the strip of card stock to cover the foam core edge. This card stock strip goes all the way around the chaise. You will probably have to use a couple of pieces get the length you need. I've cut another strip of card stock to be glued along the bottom of the first strip. I've also added a heart in the center. Measure the thickness of the back and cut a strip of card stock that measurement. Glue the strip to the edge of the back to cover the layers of card stock. You've just built a French chaise. You probably feel like lying on one now! I spray the chaise with a clear varnish, I use Krylon satin. Give the chaise a couple of coats, letting the coats dry between. I concentrate on the legs, don't go and get them drippy, just make sure they are well covered. After the varnish is dry I sanded the legs with 220 grit paper. I also sanded anywhere else that I thought needed smoothing such as seams,wrinkles and edges I wanted to take the sharp edge off of. You can add a little glue to the seams to fill in, spray and sand. If you think you need another coat or two and more sanding you can do that. You need a smooth surface to start the painting process. Take your time here and look closely. Some of you might be looking around my room and wondering what that is under the window that's covered up with the yellow checkered tablecloth. That's my Passap knitting machine. I used to be quite a machine knitter. I wrote for a magazine for 6 years and authored 2 books. I don't use it much anymore, I love doing miniatures just tooooo much. I mention this because of the little afghan on the shabby chic chaise. I knit the afghans on that knitting machine. Tigger has joined us for a bit. Her brother, Digger, has been on the blog before. I painted the chaise gold. You could just as easily spray the whole thing gold, too. I sanded and painted a few times to get a smooth finish. Again, take your time and give it all a good look before you go on. Check out February 15, 2010, "How to make 2 fancy faux finishes", for another way to finish in gold. When I was satisfied with the surface I sprayed the chaise with the Krylon satin to finish. For this chaise I painted on a little brown paint to dull the gold a bit. For the shabby chic chaise I used the same brown but added a little glaze so I could wipe it off. I found that the spray varnish kept the paint from sticking, too. This is all an experiment. When you are done spray the chaise with the varnish again. Use your cushion base pattern to trace onto 2 pieces of mat board the cushion base. Glue the 2 layers together and let dry. You may want to clamp them together. If you have a scroll saw glue the mat board together first then cut out the pattern. Cut a strip of Thermolam Plus, I talked about this in the "Make and upholster a 1 inch scale chair" tutorial. I buy it at JoAnn's, I have found it in the fabric department at Wal-Mart,too. Glue the Thermolam Plus onto the edge of the cushion base, only in the "leg" area, not past the notched area that is the seat. Trim off the extra even with the mat board. I am using a "pain in the neck fabric". It will get glue spots, it will be hard to glue and it will be hard to ease around corners, but I thought it would look good with the gold and it was a remnant for only a $1.00. Cut a strip of your fabric and cut some notches to help you get around the end of the chaise. We will be using tacky glue for the upholstery. Glue the fabric onto the cushion base. There should be a little extra fabric past the notches into the seat area. Cut more notches on the other side of the strip of fabric and glue it down to the cushion base. Trim off extra fabric in the seating area and glue the ends down leaving little "ears" of fabric. I apply glue inside these "ears" of fabric. I trim off the "ears". Glue the cushion base into the chaise. I have it clamped. Use the back frame pattern to make the pieces needed to apply fabric onto for the outside and inside upholstery. You are going to make the pieces for the inside back just like you made the back using 3 layers of card stock glued together. Trace the pattern, rough cut out and glue onto a second layer of card stock, rough cut out and glue onto the third layer of card stock. Following the lines of the pattern cut the 3 layers out. Cut the center back out and place it onto the form and secure with a rubber band. Let this dry. Cut the side pieces out and set them aside for now. Trace the pattern again for the outside pieces and cut them out. You will only need one layer of card stock for these. You will need to fit and trim these pieces to allow for fabric and trim. I left at least a 1/16 inch all around. I am showing the arm piece. For gluing fabric onto card stock I use glue stick. Don't use too much on fabric that shows glue spots, this will show, too. Apply the glue stick to the card stock and press the card stock onto the fabric. Cut notches all around. Use the tacky glue to glue the extra fabric to the back of the card stock. Glue the center back piece onto the outside of the back. The trim will fill in the extra space. This is the piece for the arm, glued to the card stock with notches cut. Use tacky glue to glue the extra fabric to the back of the card stock. Glue onto the side of the chaise. When the inside pieces are dry enough to work with you will have to trim them to fit. Leave at least a 1/16 inch all around. I've left a 1/16 inch all around. Trim the pieces for the arms, too. Cut out the pattern for the center back Thermolam Plus pattern. Use it to cut the first layer, cut the second layer a little larger. Spread tacky glue all over the card stock piece and press the first layer, second layer and finally another piece that covers the whole center back. Trim off the extra Thermolam Plus even the edge. A Note: December 16, 2011, "How to make a no-sew mattress and box spring", this shows how to tuft and you might want to apply this to the center back of the chaise. Cut a piece of fabric larger than the center back. Cut notches in the extra fabric. I start by gluing the bottom onto the back of the card stock. Glue the rest of the fabric around the back, easing it in, smoothing out the folds. Glue the center back into the back of the chaise. I only use 2 layers of Thermolam Plus for the arms. I start with a small square in the center. Spread tacky glue all over the arm and press the small square on first then press another piece to fit the whole arm. Trim off the extra Thermolam Plus even with the edge of the card stock. Cover the arm piece just like you did the center back and glue the arms into the chaise. Cut out the seat cushion pattern and DRY FIT into the chaise. Make adjustments if needed to the pattern before you use it to cut out the foam core. Trace the seat cushion pattern onto 1 layer of foam core and cut out. Dry fit the seat cushion into the chaise. Make adjustments if needed. I use 4 layers of Thermolam Plus for the seat cushion. On the pattern you will see a line drawn on half the pattern. This line is for the first layer, you will have to make a pattern for the first layer. The pattern I gave you is for the second layer. Cut out the first 2 layers of Thermolam Plus. Spread tacky glue all over the seat cushion foam core and press the first layer on, the second layer and a third layer that covers all of the seat cushion. Trim the extra Thermolam Plus even with the edge of the foam core. The fourth and final layer will be glued under the foam core in the leg area and at the back. This fourth layer is not glued on the seat's side. Cut notches around the end of the cushion. Glue the Thermolam Plus onto the form core. Notch the back of the Thermolam Plus. Glue the Thermolam Plus onto the foam core at the back. I do apologize for using the name of this stuff so often, but if I switch to using a substitute like "fleece", that could be mistaken for many different things. Here is the seat cushion ready to be covered with fabric. Cut fabric to fit the cushion with extra to be glued around and under. Cut slashes into the notches at the end of the seating area. Do you see the traces of red fabric on the end of the seat cushion? Got it all covered and what did I find? A glue spot! Had to rip it off. Keep a wet cloth next to you, wipe your hands. There is always stray glue lurking at the side of a finger nail to ruin your upholstery. I began covering the seat cushion by gluing the leg sides to the foam core. To keep me from pulling the fabric down to the bottom when I begin gluing the bottom, I glued a small bit of the back to the form core. You naturally pull the fabric when you are gluing around the curve, gluing the fabric to the back will stop that. Start gluing the end. This fabric isn't cooperating and I am going to leave it for now and come back when I have everything else glued. Maybe I can get the folds out. I wish I had you all here. Especially, when gluing around curves you want to keep pulling the fabric down. All you are doing is adding more bulk, creating more folds. The best corners are the ones where the least amount of fabric is used. When I come back I will cut out some more of the fabric. For right now I want the fabric to set up with the glue. Apply tacky glue to the notch and press the fabric down to it. Apply tacky glue in the "ears" and press the fabric together. Another view. I've got both of the "ears" glued and I am now putting glue onto the fabric at the corner of the back. I also will apply tacky glue to the side. There's the glue. I've pressed the fabric together and glued the sides. I then trimmed the fabric out of the corner. I'm adding a little more glue to the notched area "ears". I've trimmed out the fabric. If you have fabric that doesn't ravel you can trim the "ears" off flat, even with the foam core. My fabric ravels. Can you see at the corner back where I've glued the corners down? I've gone back to mess with the end. This will have to do and I will hope the trim will cover most of the folds. You might ask, "Why didn't you cut a strip of fabric for boxing?" I tried, but my fabric ravels and I would have to glue the edge to stop that. Oh, my fabric hates glue, too. Turning a hem would make the boxing out of scale. Keep out of the remnants, Kris. I HAVEN'T glued the seat cushion in, yet. It's just setting there. I am going to make twisted embroidery floss trim. I don't know if you all know how to do this, but I am going to explain it anyway. For the picture I have the six strand floss taped to my table and I am twisting it. How much? This you will have to experiment with. You can use the six strands or use less strands. With your other hand hold the floss in the middle and fold the end you are twisting back to the taped end. The floss will naturally twist the opposite direction and hold the twist. This little drill is available from Hobby Builders. I bent a nail and put it in the end so I could tie on the floss. I tie the other end of the floss to a hook I have screwed into my cabinets near my table. This is what I use to twist the floss with. This takes experimentation to get used to how much to twist but I am sure you will get on to it. The folded middle sometimes isn't usable. You have to glue the floss before you cut or it will unwind. This can be heart break time, keep your fingers clean, wipe them off. You'll be pressing the trim on and get a little extra glue on the side of a finger, then you'll pick up your chaise to turn it around and you will have left glue behind. Oh, you probably won't know right then but you'll find it. . . . . Start gluing the floss on. I have a tutorial on piping if you want to make piping for your chaise, April 14, 2010, "How to make piping for pillows". I also have a tutorial for pillow with a ruffle, March 17,2011, "How to make a dollhouse pillow with ruffle". The floss is glued on the inside and outside of the chaise. I glue the floss or piping onto my seat cushions before I glue the cushions into my furniture. I have glued the floss onto the seat cushion and have glued the seat cushion into the chaise. There they are. It took me about 2 days to complete a chaise. I was an intense 2 days, lots of gluing! I hope you try this out. Even when I look at the piece it blows my mind that it's only paper. As always, Have fun, Expand on it, make it better . . . . . . Just Keep Making Minis! TTUL Kris IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS PLEASE E-MAIL ME AT [email protected]
Optimized topology • Product format: STL Digital Download • Modelled using Zbrush • All Transforms set to 0 • Optimized topology • Inspected with Blender 3D Print and Lychee Slicer Every STL model in our store is a unique creation. Optimized for 3D printing, having undergone tests and inspection in both lychee, blender and by printing, ensuring a smooth printing experience without errors. Please keep in mind that print quality may differ based on your printer and your choice of materials. I highly recommend using Resin-based materials for the best results, but our models are also compatible with FDM printers. For hassle-free printing, we suggest using the free-to-use Lychee Slicer or Cura slicer software. These tools are free to use. The models are designed to accommodate various scales. Simply adjust the scale in your preferred software to match your creative vision. File Format: STL Usage License for Commercial Purposes: You are permitted to produce and sell 500 physical copies of this item exclusively as an individual merchant. The distribution, sale, donation, or any form of sharing of the STL file, including any alterations or adjustments, is strictly prohibited. Your purchase grants you a usage license but does not confer ownership of the asset. SwanHome3D retains all intellectual property rights. By acquiring this file, you are bound by the terms and conditions as outlined herein. If you have any issues, questions or requests please don't hesitate to contact us. We genuinely value your input and feedback. Thank you!
Pretty much finish with the exterior. Moving on to the interior. More pix to come. This is a work in progress... I've wanted to make a Chateau dollhouse forever! But I've had put it off because I have absolutely no room for a huge dollhouse. So I had this thought what if I could make one small enough to put anywhere, but still have the feel of an extravagant Chateau. Well, this is the result. I call this a room box instead of a dollhouse, because it's just one room. A bit of ima
The strange and ominous shadowbox diorama dollhouses of french artist Marc Giai-Miniet.
This is the project for this month. This French chaise is made from card stock, foam core and mat board. You could trim off the front ...
Dollhouses are a very weird phenomenon. What's so likable about a tiny replication of our own dwellings — or very different ones — in 1:12 scale? But dollhouse popularity is assured: they've been bestsellers in toy stores since their beginnings as…
Intricately made miniature staircase model with metal balusters and a faux doorway underneath. Piece is signed and dated as seen in Image #8. This was the work of a Compagnon, a member of a french guild that dates back to the Middle Ages.
Mandatory Credit: All Images Courtesy Michael Williams/MyLifeInPlastic.com Ideal Tuesday Taylor Fashion Doll Dollhouse House Summer Winter A-frame aframe A frame ski lodge lake house lakehouse miniature diorama 1970s vintage collectible toy toys dolls
Welcome your dolls to this beautiful dollhouse, inspired by the classic and beautiful French houses. With its natural wooden look, the wooden dollhouse fits into almost any interior. Totally different from plastic toys in bright colours. We are huge fans! Furniture and dolls can be ordered in different colours. Please note: the furniture set shown in the photo can be ordered here.
An FBA tutorial - full bust adjustment tutorial for the Maven Pattern French Dart shift sewing pattern, get a perfectly fitting dress!
Housed in a 16th century building in the historic center of Lyon, France is the Musée Miniature et Cinéma, a 5-story museum containing over 100 miniature film sets. The tiny scenes were produced by world-renowned miniaturists and contain the highest form of Hyperrealism in order to trick the audience’s eye into believing each set was indeed life-size. The handcrafted models contain all the minuscule features that would be found in the film’s actual scene, from fake mold inhabiting peeling walls to scratches seen behind tiny bedposts. More
The strange and ominous shadowbox diorama dollhouses of french artist Marc Giai-Miniet.
I made a dormer. The painting on this side is done, just some lead for the roof, the balconies, railing and shutters. Because I have a dormer, there is room for a little guest-room. I also used the beautiful lace that Mercedes give me as curtains, it is just perfect!!
Victor Gabriel Gilbert (1847-1935, French) ~ Jeune femme lisant, n/d [Source: Christie’s]
The strange and ominous shadowbox diorama dollhouses of french artist Marc Giai-Miniet.
Make your own 1:12 dollhouse bed from scrap fabric and paper. These two headboard tutorials are beginner friendly!
First Steps La Visite La leçon de piano La Nourrice The Breastfeeding Mother La Maternité Madame de Staël et sa fille Albertine Albertine de Staël A Young Lady And A Little Girl Portrait Of Marécha…
Regency Reader Question For the aristocracy, it was apparently all the rage to have a male French chef. However, the references I’ve found said that such men
A dash of Whimsy for your home! Cottage and shabby chic styles mingle to create a truly romantic look! 100% handmade and original! In a world full of mass production, hand made is the one true luxury." anonymous
As a child there always seemed to be hours of time to fill and despite busying myself with reading Mallory Towers, playing with Barbie and writing poems I was often bored. It was about this time that my passion for making things started. Anyway I'll pass on a few of my childhood craft ideas in case you are suffering from ennui and need inspiration. Then as now I have little patience for making things that don't give fairly immediate results; French Knitting was a quick win. You need a wooden cotton reel (haven't seen one of these for a while) for the authentic Renka experience or a commercially-made knitting dolly. Tap four small nails into the top of the reel, stuff a tail of wool through the hole - I'm getting a bit bored trying to describe this - so for excellent instructions I shall refer you to: http://www.how-to-knit-guide.com/french-knitting.html. Eventually a small woollen sausage will appear at the bottom of the cotton reel - if you are very impatient you can pull the tail and stretch the wool. Keep going until you lose the will to live or you have run out of wool. I would then sew the said sausage into hats, capes and skirts for my dolls. Alternatively I'd sew them into circles and give them to Nan -she would (loyally) put them on her dressing table as coasters for flagons of Oil Of Olay (aka Oil of Ugly ). Another time-consuming activity was shoe box weaving (no - you are not weaving a shoe box - just read on). Take the body of a shoe box, on the rims of the short-side cut shallow notches at about 1cm apart. Knot some wool and thread it through a notch, take it to the far end and thread through the facing notch, wind around the tag (this instruction writing is obviously an art which is beyond me and a little dull) and then take it back up again. Continue until all notches are full - you now have your warp. You are now ready for the exciting (everything is relative) part. Take a small ruler and use it to lift up alternative warps and slide under a length of wool to act as a weft or woof (those Anglo-Saxons really knew how to make a good word in my uttlerly biased opinion). If you vary the wool colours and don't pull it too tight you will produce a tiny magic carpet (or big if you happen to have very large feet) - warning this takes ages and ages.
