If you’re making a soft rag doll and are hung up on how to hand embroider the doll’s face, or even if you just need a quick run down on basic stitches, I hope this super simple video embroidery tutorial is helpful for you!
Pattern: @zumragurumi English Translation: @samyelidesign MATERİALS: Yarns: Nako pırlanta (skin color:3148) Alize Diva (For dress, Pink (561) and light Pink (185)) Hook: 2,10 mm and 1,50 mm 2.5 mm electrical wire Fiberfill Fine black yarn for face contouring Yarn for the hair ABBREVİATİONS: st: stitch ch: chain mr: magic ring sc: single crochet inc: increase (2 sc in the next st) dec: decrease (sc next 2 sts together ) ( )*6 : Repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated HEAD: Start with skin color 1) 6 sc in magic ring (6) 2) 6 inc (12) 3) (sc, inc)*6 (18) 4) (2 sc, inc)*6 (24) 5) sc, inc, (3 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (30) 6) (4 sc, inc)*6 (36) 7) 2 sc, inc, (5 sc, inc)*5, 3 sc (42) 8) (6 sc, inc)*6 (48) 9) 3 sc, inc, (7 sc, inc)*5, 4 sc (54) 10-21) sc in each st around (54) (12 rnds) 22) 18 sc, 6 inc, 6 sc, 6 inc, 18 sc (66) 23-27) sc in each st around (66) (5 rnds) 28) (9 sc, dec)*6 (60) 29) (8 sc, dec)*6 (54) 30) (7 sc, dec)*6 (48) 31) (6 sc, dec)*6 (42) 32) (5 sc, dec)*6 (36) Place eyes between round 20th and 21th leaving 7 sts between them. 33) (4 sc, dec)*6 (30) 34) (3 sc, dec)*6 (24) 35) (2 sc, dec)*6 (18) 36) (7 sc, dec)*2 (16) Fasten off Process eyelashes and eyebrows then fill the head with fiberfill. ARMS: (2 pcs) Start with skin color 1) 6 sc in magic ring (6) 2) (inc, 2 sc)*2 (8) 3) sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 2 sc (10) 4) 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc (12) 5) 2 sc, 2 inc, 8 sc (14) 6-7) sc in each st around (14) (2 rnds) 8) 2 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc (10) 9) 8 sc, inc, 2 sc (11) 10-30) sc in each st around (11) (21 rnds) FOOT: (2 pcs) Start with white color 1) 9 ch, starting from the 2nd ch st crochet around the chain like: 7 sc, 3 sc in next stitch, 6 sc, inc (18) 2) inc, 6 sc, 3 inc, 6 sc, 2 inc (24) 3) sc, inc, 6 sc, (sc, inc)*3, 6 sc, (sc, inc)*2 (30) 4) 9 sc, (2 sc, inc)*3, 12 sc (33) 5-7) sc in each st around (33) (3 rnds) 8) 8 sc, (sc, dec)*6, 7 sc (27) 9) dec, 7 sc, (sc, dec)*4, 6 sc (22) 10) 8 sc, (sc, dec)*2, 8 sc (20) 11) 8 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc (18) 12-17) sc in each st around (18) (6 rnds) Take the yarn to the front. 18) From FLO: (x, 2 ch)*18 Fasten off. Cut the yarn. LEGS: (2 pcs) Continue with skin color from BLO on the 17th row. 18) sc in each st around (18) 19-27) sc in each st around (18) (9 rnds) 28) 12 sc, 4 inc, 2 sc (22) 29) 11 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, sc (20) 30) sc in each st around (20) 31) 5 sc, inc, 7 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc (19) 32) sc in each st around (19) 33) 6 sc, inc, 12 sc (20) 34) sc in each st around (20) 35) 7 sc, inc, 12 sc (21) 36) sc in each st around (21) 37) 8 sc, inc, 12 sc (22) 38-41) sc in each st around (22) 42) 9 sc, place marker here and change the yarn with white color. 43-46) sc in each st around (22) (4 rnds) Cut the yarn after the first leg is finised, do not cut the yarn after the second leg is finished BODY: Combine the legs. 1) 7 sc from first leg, 2 ch, 22 sc from second leg, 2 sc on the ch, 15 sc from first leg (48) 2) 8 sc, 2 sc on the ch, 40 sc (48) 3) 2 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 12 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 10 sc (52) 4-9) sc in each st around (52) (6 rnds) 10) 3 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 7 sc (48) 11) sc in each st around (48) 12) 4 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 7 sc (44) Continue with skin color. 13) (20 sc, dec)*2 (42) 14) 2 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 11sc, dec, 4 sc (38) 15) 18 sc, dec, 16 sc, dec (36) 16-17) sc in each st around (36) 18) 18 sc, inc, 16 sc, inc (38) Combine the arms. 12 sc, place marker here. 19) 8 sc, 3 sc with arm, 16 sc, 3 sc with order arm, 8 sc (38) 20) 8 sc, 9 sc on the arm, 16 sc, 9 sc on the order arm, 8 sc (50) 21) (7 sc, dec)*2, 14 sc, (7 sc, dec)*2 (46) 22) 3 sc, dec, 13 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 13 sc, dec, 3 sc (42) 23) 3 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 3 sc (38) 24) 8 sc, 3 dec, 12 sc, 3 dec, 6 sc (32) 25) 3 sc, dec, 2 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc, dec, sc (24) 26) (2x, dec)*6 (18) 27) 6 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 3 sc (16) 28-31) sc in each st around (16) (4 rnds) DRESS: Start with dark pink color. Return at the end of the rows. 1) 45 ch, starting from the 2nd ch st crochet around the chain like: inc, (6 dc, 2 dc in to next st)*6 (50) 2-3) 5 ch, skip 1 st, sc, (3 ch, skip 1 st, sc)*24 4) 5 ch, skip 1 st, sc, (4 ch, skip 1 st, sc)*24 5) 3 ch, (3 dc in each space)*25 (75) 6) 5 ch, skip 1 st, sc, (3 ch, skip 1 st, sc)*37 6) 5 ch, skip 1 st, sc, (3 ch, skip 1 st, sc)*37 7) 5 ch, sc, (3 ch, sc)*4, 7 ch, skip 8 space, sc, (3 ch, sc)*5 8) 5 ch, sc, (3 ch, sc)*4, (3 ch, skip 1 st, sc)*3, (3 ch, sc)*10, (3 ch, skip 1 st, sc)*3, (3 ch, sc)*5 9) 2 ch, (3 dc in each space)*repeat until the end of the sequence 10-12) 2 ch, 51 dc 13) 4 ch, (skip 2 st, dc, 2 ch, dc to the next space)*17, ss 14) 2 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc to the next space)*17 15) 2 ch, dc into 2nd st, (2 dc, 2ch, 2dc to the next space, dc in the next st), (skip 2 st, dc into 2nd st, (2 dc, 2ch, 2 dc to the next space, dc in the next st))*16 16) 2 ch, from the second st: 2 dc, (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc to the next space, 2 dc, (skip 2 st, 2 dc, (2 dc, 2ch, 2 dc in each space, 2 dc))*16 17) 2 ch, from the second st: 3 dc, (dc, 2 ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc), (skip 2 st, 3 dc, (dc, 2ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc))*16 18) Start with light pink. 2 ch, from the second st: 3 dc, (dc, 2 ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc), (skip 2 st, 3 dc, (dc, 2ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc))*16 19) Start with dark pink. 2 ch, from the second st: 3 dc, (dc, 2 ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc), (skip 2 st, 3 dc, (dc, 2 ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc))*16 20) Start with light pink. 2 ch, from the second st: 3 dc, (dc, 2 ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc), (skip 2 st, 3 dc, (dc, 2 ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc))*16 21) Start with dark pink. 2 ch, from the second st: 3 dc, (dc, 2 ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc), (skip 2 st, 3 dc, (dc, 2 ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc))*16 22) Start with light pink. 2 ch, from the second st: 3 dc, (dc, 3 ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc), (skip 2 st, 3 dc, (dc, 3 ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc))*16 23) Start with dark pink. 2 ch, from the third st: 2 dc, (3 dc, 3 ch, sc into first ch, 2 dc to the next space, 3 dc in the next st, skip 2 st)*16 FLOWER: 1) 6 ch, ss into first ch and ring creation. 2) 1 ch, 12 sc, ss 3) (3 ch, bubble in the next st, 3 ch, sc in the next st)*6 TAIL OF FLOWER: 60 ch, from the second st: 50 ss from the FLO (2 pieces) SHOES: (2 pcs) Start with black color 1) 9 ch, from the second st: 7 sc, 4 sc into same ch, 6 sc, inc, ss (19) 2) 1 ch, inc, 3 sc, 3 hdc, (2 hdc in the next st)*3, 3 hdc, 3 sc, 2 inc, ss (24) 3) sc, inc, 3 sc, 3 hdc, (hdc, 2 hdc in the next st)*4, 3 hdc, 3 sc, (inc sc)*2 (33) Continue with dark pink color. 4) 1 ch, 33 sc from BLO, ss (33) 5-7) sc in each st around (33) (3 rnds) 8) 1 ch, 10 sc, (sc, dec)*4, 11 sc, ss (29) 9) 1 ch, 8 sc, dec, sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, sc, dec, 7 sc, ss (25) RIBBON: Start with light pink. sc, 4 ch, 3 trc, 4 ch, 2 sc, 4 ch, 3 trc, 4 ch, sc in magic ring HAIRGRIP: Foliage: Start with green color. (10 ch, from the second st: sc, hdc, 7 dc)*3 Flower: 1) 35 ch, (dc, 3 ch, dc in the fifth ch), [(1 ch, skip 2 ch, (dc, 3 ch, dc in the next ch)]*10 2) turn, 2 ch, (7 dc to the next space, sc to the next space)*10 HAIRS:
A quick run through of embroidering the face on a cloth doll… I embroider my dolls’ faces after I’ve stuffed the bodies and sewn down the yarn hair. I prefer placing the features after everything else is in place. I use pins to mark spots for eyes and nose, using a tape measure to center …
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I can't count how many times this year I've received e-mails from readers asking if I could make them a ballerina doll because they didn't think they could tackle the hand embroidered eyes. But since I know for a fact that anyone can sew embroidered eyes, I decided to post a tutorial to take the mystery out of it. If you can believe it, I actually find sewing doll eyes to be slightly easier than the blanket stitch on pincushion leaves. Let's jump in! Technique Tutorial: Satin-Stitched Doll Eyes 1. So. First things first: embroider the eyes before you sew the hair. That way if something goes so awry that you need to start over, you haven't wasted felt or time sewing the hair (but you won't, because you have this handy tutorial to guide you!). 2. In order to get symmetrical eyes, it's important to start with accurate tracing. In the past, I have taped the pattern to a sunny window and held the fabric on top of it, however my preferred method now is to use a light box, so I don't have to worry about the fabric slipping around on top of the paper or the awkward angle for tracing. If it's still too slippery, go ahead and use a bit of tape to keep everything in place. If you're curious, this is my favorite fabric pen. 3. Sew small backstitches around the eye circles. I aim to have the needle tip go through exactly the center of the traced line or just on the outer edge, then make sure it goes back into the same hole as the previous stitch. Try to be consistent with your needle placement as this will help your circle to be as round as possible. Don't be afraid to take out a stitch or two if your circle forms a little angle. It is way easier to take out a couple of stitches now than to try to camouflage it later. If your circle is persistently angular, your stitches are probably too large. 4. Fill in the circle with satin stitches. Start your stitches right next to the backstitches, or slightly in between them. Try to fill in all the fabric underneath the first time around, but go back and fill in the gaps later if necessary. Start at the bottom of the eye and end at the top. Don't pull the thread super tight, just enough so the thread lies pretty flat and the fabric underneath doesn't wrinkle. Think you're finished filling in the eye? Peek-a-boo! A little gap likes to hide at the top of the eye; use your needle to push the thread downward, hold it with your thumb, and then sew another satin stitch or two to fill in the remaining space. 5. On to the eyelashes! These are just a few little backstitches. I sew the long line downward (2-3 stitches) so the last stitch is even with the bottom of the eye, then add a stitch for each eyelash, sewing the bottom lash first and then the one above. Tie off the knot on the back and trim the thread. 6. This last step is crucial, as it adds some sparkle to your doll's eyes. Sew a single white stitch in the upper right corner of each eye. Aim to have the stitches in the same spot on each eye, even if they aren't exactly where my stitches are. Again, if it doesn't look right, take it out and try again. It's just one stitch and worth a little extra effort to get it the way you want! On the other hand, don't stress about the inevitable imperfections that are part handmade sewing. My doll eyes are never perfectly even. So when you are struggling a little bit, when you have the urge to just throw it away, sleep on it and take another look in the morning, it's never as bad as you think! Do you have any questions about hand stitching the eyes? Or is there something else keeping you from making your first doll? Let me know and maybe I can help de-mystify it for you! Happy Stitching! P.S. The darling girl pictured above is not my daughter (I know I've been away for a while, but it hasn't been that long!). Isn't she the most adorable little model?
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