Just like my Maya basic doll, this crochet doll pattern needs no sewing. It's kind of like a smaller version of Maya. I design this doll for Nutshell Lane Studios group doll of the month for April. You can use any yarn and hook size making it to achieve the size you like. Finished doll size: 12 inches Using worsted weight yarn with size F/ 3.75 mm hook. Pattern is written in US Terminology. Abbreviation: Sc- single crochet Ch- chain Inc- increase Dec- invisible decrease St- stitch Sts- stitches Pattern start Arms: Make two. Crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the rounds from hand to shoulder. Use a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts Round 1: 6 Sc in magic ring Round 2: Inc in each st around (12) Round 3: (Sc in next 3 sts, Inc in next st) repeat around (15) Round 4: Sc around (15) Round 5: Sc in next 5 sts, Bobble stitch in next, Sc in next 9 sts (14sc, 1 bobble to make a thumb) Round 6 : Sc around (15) Round 7: (Sc in next 3 sts, Dec) repeat around (12) Round 8: (Sc in next 4 sts, Dec) repeat around (10) Round 9-18: Sc around (10) Finish off. Arms are made ahead in this pattern for later attachment. Leg 1: Round 1: Ch9, Sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 6 sts, 3 Sc in next st, On the other side of chain,Sc in next 6 sts, Inc in next (18) Round 2: Inc in next st, Sc in next 6 sts, Inc in next st, 3 Sc in next st,Inc in next st, Sc in next 6 sts, Inc in next st, 3 Sc in next st (26) Round 3: Inc in next st, Sc in next 8 sts, Inc in next st, (Sc in next st ,Inc in next) x2, Sc in next 8 sts, (Inc in next st, sc in next) x2 (32) Round 4: Sc in each st around working in back loops only. (32) Round 5-6: Sc in each st around (32) Round 7: Sc in next 7 sts, Dec x3, Sc in next 2 sts, Dec x3, Sc in next 11 sts (26) Round 8: Sc in next 6 sts, Dec x2, Sc in next 2 sts, Dec x2, Sc in next 10 sts (22) Round 9: Sc in next 5 sts, Dec x4, Sc in next 9 sts (18) Round 10-23: Sc in each st around (18) Finish off first leg, place marker in 14th stitch. Leg 2: Follow instruction for round 1-23 for the first leg DO NOT finish off. To join both legs with 2nd leg on hook,Continue working Sc in next 4 sts, Ch 2, Slip stitch where you place stitch marker in 1st leg. Start crocheting the Body. (Stuff as you go.) Continue to crochet in continuous spirals without joining the rounds, using a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts. Round 24: Ch 1, Sc in same stitch and each st around Leg 1, Sc along ch 2, Sc in each st around Leg 2, Sc along ch 2 (40) Round 25: Sc in next 8 sts, Inc in next st, Sc in next 19 sts, Inc in next st, Sc in next 11 sts (42) Round 25-28: Sc in each st around (42) Round 29: (Sc in next 12 sts, Dec) repeat around (39) Round 30-31: Sc in each st around (39) Round 32: (Dec, Sc in next 11 sts) repeat around (36) Round 33-34: Sc in each st around (36) Round 35: (Sc in next 10 sts, Dec) repeat around (33) Round 36-37: Sc in each st around (33) Round 38: (Dec, Sc in next 9 sts) repeat around (30) Round 39: Sc in each st around (30) Round 40: Sc in each st around,Crochet arms on the side of body as you go with the thumb facing front. Shoulder: Round 41: (Sc in next st, Dec) repeat around (20) Round 42: (Sc in next 2 sts, Dec) repeat around (15) Neck: (Stuff it FIRMLY) Round 43-44: Sc in each st around (15) Round 45: Sc around working in back loops only. (15) Round 46-49: Sc in each st around (15) Round 50: (Sc in next st, Dec) repeat around (10) Round 51: Dec around (5) Finish off, cut yarn leaving long tail. Using a yarn needle, Thread through each stitch and pull tightly to close the neck. Note: Your doll looks weird right? The neck is made this way to create a floppy head stopper. Head: Attach yarn at the back of the neck,in the remaining loop of round 44. Round 1: Ch 1, Inc in each st around (30) Round 2: (Sc in next 4 sts,Inc in next st) repeat around (36) Round 3: (Sc in next 5 sts,Inc in next st) repeat around (42) Round 4: (Sc in next 6 sts,Inc in next st) repeat around (48) Round 5: (Sc in next 7 sts,Inc in next st) repeat around (54) Round 6-14: Sc in each st around (54) Place Safety eyes between rounds 10-11. Round 15: (Sc in next 7 sts,Dec) repeat around (48) Round 16: (Sc in next 6 sts,Dec) repeat around (42) Round 17: (Sc in next 5 sts,Dec) repeat around (36) Round 18: (Sc in next 4 sts,Dec) repeat around (30) Round 19: (Sc in next 3 sts,Dec) repeat around (24) Stuff the head firmly as you go. Round 20: (Sc in next 2 sts,Dec) repeat around (18) Round 21: (Sc in next st,Dec) repeat around (12) Round 22: Dec around (6) Finish off, cut yarn leaving long tail. Using a yarn needle, Thread through each stitch and pull tightly to close the head. For dress and hair cap pattern CLICK HERE! ** My patterns are free and I would like them to stay that way. You are free to print them out for your personal use. Please do not sell my patterns or say they are your own. You are free to do whatever you want with the finished item. If you are selling them online please link back the pattern and give me credit. If you want to share the pattern please see Terms of use to be guided accordingly.Thanks and enjoy crocheting. ©2018 by Nelly Lopez. All rights reserved
A quick little tutorial on lining a sleeveless bodice, an easy technique that gives a nice clean finish. This is the technique used to make the bodice of Valentine's little dress.
Adorable 18" doll robe free pattern pdf that is easy to sew and perfect for dressing up dolly. Matching kid robe available too!
Doll clothes, doll patterns, historical doll clothes, patterns for american girl, make doll clothes, free doll patterns, free doll clothes patterns, free ag patterns
This tutorial is perfect, it was done by my good friend Megan who owns American Prim. I added a few Homespun from the Heart notes. Doll D...
A few weeks ago, I made an American Indian costume for an American Girl doll. After making it, I decided it would be fun to make the doll a teepee because play time is so much more fun with accessories, right? This doll-sized teepee is perfect for a doll 18" or smaller. The best part about making this is that it can be made from a pair of pants that you no longer wear, making this another totally inexpensive project. Following too many Christmas expenditures, this inexpensive project is the best kind of project! Supplies Needed: One pair of pants - the wider the pant legs the better. 1 package of extra wide double found bias tape Thread Scissors 7 - 3/8" dowels Start with a pair of pants. Cut both legs off - from the hem up needs to be at least 25 inches. Unpick any seams and cut off the hem. Cut the pant legs into even triangles. Sew the triangles together per this diagram: After you cut an opening in the top of your teepee, round off the corners of the bottom of the fabric circle by cutting as needed. If you want a design on your teepee, cut the design from a contrasting fabric. HERE is the deer design, if you want to copy the design I used. I drew the antlers onto the deer with a washable fabric marker and then sewed the antler design with a tight, narrow zig zag stitch. You'll need to cut out two deer from this pattern. Place the deer onto the lower portion of each flap. One will be reversed so that your deer are facing each other and the opening of the teepee. Next stitch the "do not sew" edge or flap opening by folding over the unfinished edge and stitching close to that edge (see top right photo). Sew brown seam tape around the bottom of the circle, starting and stopping at the flap opening. For the ties, take the remainder of the seam tape and cut in half. Sew that seam tape together finishing off one end of each piece of seam tape. Sew this seam tape at 9" from the bottom of the tee pee. Follow as described in this diagram: Fold in half 1" of 1/8" wide elastic and sew this to the top and bottom of each seam. This elastic will be used to hold your poles to the teepee. 13. I next added a little white jumbo rick rack onto the bottom of the teepee by sewing at the top and bottom of the trim. The white from this trim added a little punch of contrasting color. 14. Thread the dowels through the elastic. 15. Tie the dowels together right above the opening. I used a piece of leather cut into a 1/4" wide x 12" long stripe and wrapped the leather around the dowels a couple of times. This will hold your dowels together. 16. Spread the "poles" apart and let a child have fun pretending. xoxo Grandma
How to make small doll heads and draw on bead heads by Atelier Pippilotta in English
By now we have talked about rounds, cylinders and coins, some of the basic and fundamental shapes you need to know how to crochet and understand how are done if you wish to make your first amigurum…
THIS PATTERN DOWNLOAD IS NO LONGER FUNCTIONAL ON THIS PAGE - IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO DOWNLOAD THE PATTERN, YOU CAN VIEW IT AT ITS NEW PAGE LOCATED HERE: FREE Waldorf Inspired Baby Doll Pattern - Creating a Natural Life This doll took me one day to sew entirely by hand. I did not use a machine. Im…
One piece doll from head to toes! As announced few weeks ago, it is time for little lesson on how to make doll in one piece. There are several ways on how I do it. In this, first lesson will try to…
After searching for the right handmade Waldorf doll and then waiting eons to receive it, now you have a sweet (or several) little wool-stuffed creature in your hands. Although he or she came fully dressed, in a thoughtful and suitable outfit that complements their personality and local weather, n
This is a blog for sharing dollmaking patterns, images of my life, and some poor poetry. The links to patterns should now be restored.
THIS PATTERN DOWNLOAD IS NO LONGER FUNCTIONAL ON THIS PAGE - IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO DOWNLOAD THE PATTERN, YOU CAN VIEW IT AT ITS NEW PAGE LOCATED HERE: FREE Waldorf Inspired Baby Doll Pattern - Creating a Natural Life This doll took me one day to sew entirely by hand. I did not use a machine. Im…
When it comes to choosing a hair style for your natural cloth doll, the daring dollmaker wishes to employ natural fibers. Wefting locks, wether alpaca or sheep’s wool, is very easy once you get the hang of it. Let me show you with this mini tutorial.
Here is a new crochet pattern to create your very own sweet amigurumi doll, Julie. She has curly red hair and wears a trendy sapphire jumpsuit.
Hello Friends! It's been awhile hasn't it? And this past year has been something else for all of us. My husband and I were pretty much cut off for most of it with only the occasional outside visit with family or friends though we were so lucky to be able to spend time with our grandkids who, after the first couple of months, were part of our bubble for the duration. But it has definitely been an "interesting" time in so many ways. Plague, isolation, natural disasters, insurrection: I can see why "may you live in interesting times" is a curse! Knowing that so many people have lost loved ones in this pandemic absolutely breaks me. I hold those lives in my heart and will always do so and I will never forget that it didn't have to be this way. But life does goes on, the pendulum swings back, and hopes for better times do seem to be finding some fruition. My husband and I have had both of our vaccinations and so has my 87 year old, still seeing patients, dad - which is a HUGE relief to me as you might imagine. So as I try to get back to a somewhat more "normal" life I thought I would try to restart my blog with a little gift. I'm sharing a pattern for my little lavender babies. I don't make these any more to sell and I thought it might be a fun project for those of you who enjoy handwork. These are made entirely by hand, no sewing machine necessary, and are pretty easy (if somewhat time consuming) to make once you have the head done. I'll include lots of pictures and directions so it might take a few posts to get all the info but I promise to make them all in short order. So let's get started! First you will need to make a small ( about 3.5inches in diameter) Waldorf style head. There are tons of posts online for making these heads, this just happens to be the way I do it for this type of doll. You will need: Wool Cotton string one piece 3" long and one 6" A 3" piece of 5/8" tubular gauze Cotton knit "skin" fabric (old tee shirts can work here!) needle and thread scissors Pigma markers, colored pencil, white gel pen (optional) OR Embroidery floss for the face The first step is to tightly tie the smaller piece of string around one end of the tube and cut off the excess string. Then turn the tube inside out. Next stuff the tube with wool. This is probably the hardest step because you will need to put a lot more wool in there than you think. Keep pushing the wool in and pulling on the open end to pack it into a small ball, about 3.5 inches in diameter, the ball should be very firm. Then you will take the longer string, wrap it around the base of the ball a couple of times, pull it very tight, and tie it off. Sometimes it helps to make the head firmer if you tie a second string above the first. It just depends on how loose the head feels. Now it's time to shape the head. Thread your needle and anchor your thread at the bottom of the head. Now wrap the thread a couple of times around the head from top to bottom and pull it tight. Insert the needle from the bottom of the head to the side next to the first wrap. wrap the thread from front to back a couple of times and pull tight again. This time you're going to sew over the two wraps at their crosspoint in an X to lock them down. Take the needle through the head and do the same thing on the other side and end with the needle at the back bottom of the head near the neck. At this point you need to shimmy the back portion of the thread down to the neck to form the back of the skull. I frequently use the needle to help pull it up and down, just go carefully and take your time. You can choose now to catch that lowered thread and tie off your work OR you can make a nose. To add a nose, bring the needle and thread to the front of the face, below the eyeline thread and slightly to the left or right of the middle. sew a tiny circle or back and forth, poking up some wool as you go. You want to make a tiny bump. Then take your needle to the back of the head and tie it off. Already you have a sweet looking little head, so let's put some skin on it! Cut a rectangular piece of the cotton knit that will fit around your head. The size will depend on your finished head size but roughly 3" x 2" . Fold one side in and pin together and also put a pin in the front to keep it from slipping down the head. Thread a needle with matching thread, anchor it at the back of the neck and wrap it around the base of the head. Make sure to pull the fabric tightly in the back and keep it smooth around the top of the wrap. Stitch up the back of the head and then around the top of the head, pull the thread tight, and knot. Cut off any excess fabric and, if necessary, take a couple of stitches back and forth across there top to neaten things up. Almost done!!! We just need to make some eye indentations. So mark on the front where you want your eyes with pins or pencil. Then take your needle from the back of the head to the front and then back again taking a very small stitch in the front and pull it tight so that an indentation is formed. Tie that off and do the other eye. You did it! Look at that cutie! The only thing left is to give them a face. I use Micron Pigma pens, a white gel pen, and Prisma colored pencils for my faces these days but I used to embroider them and it really does make a very sweet and simple face. It's entirely up to you. Part 2 of this series will have the pattern you can download and will focus on making the arms and feet. You can find that HERE .
In creating this little one, for a soon to be 12-years old little dollmaker, I feel like I am growing up. This entire year has been such a growth for me, when I actually decided I was going to do "this" (as I call dollmaking). Changing my patterns has always been a struggle f
I just created this amigurumi doll pattern and I’m pretty happy with it. There are corrections I’ll make next time around, but I think it’s really cute. I’ve been crocheting for 6 months now and everything is a bit intimidating at first — and such a fun ride by the end. I read and watched… Read More »Amigurumi Doll – Basic Body. FREE Patterns Too!
Explore carbonated's 13066 photos on Flickr!
I've been making a few of these for friends and neighbors who are having a frustrating time this winter. It's brought a smile to almost ever...
" ......a handcrafted doll is one of a kind, an individual which carries the spirit of the maker in its stitches and absorbs the spirit of the child who loves it". Isn't this a beautiful description of a handmade doll?...
After almost one moth of break from new posts, returning with, I hope, lovable gift to you all. New crochet addition to all Waldorf admirers. Simple testing the head for this pattern has taken our li
Make your own no-sew American girl doll clothes.
This post may contain affiliate links. This is probably the most realistic crochet baby doll pattern we’ve ever seen! Seriously, Baby Louis by Cleoschrochetart is an absolutely amazing doll free crochet pattern! This crochet baby doll is so realistic in its details and the stitch work is purely art and so truly impressive. This great little pattern is written in two languages: English … Amazing Crochet Baby Doll Pattern Read More »
This weekend is going to be spent partying! All three of my children have a different friend celebrating their birthday. My daughter's friend has an American Girl doll and I thought it would be fun to make her some new doll clothes for a gift. I was able to quickly sew some pajamas, a leotard and tutu, and this new spring dress. (Don't tell her, but I only paid $1 for everything. Doll clothes use so little fabric that you can usually just use your scraps.) The one I will show you how to make is my own pattern. Ariel wanted to sew her friend a dress and I knew we were going to need to keep it simple. I started to help her use one of my Simplicity doll patterns, and then decided it was beyond the simple sewing skills of my daughter. We threw it out! This is what I came up with, a very basic dress that my daughter could sew, but one that is still pretty. Ariel calls it a formal dress since it's so long on the doll. In order to make the pattern, I decided I should make another dress for Ariel's Kit doll. Now her and her friend will have matching dresses! When you print out the pattern pieces make sure you print actual size. Don't scale it down for the page, as it will be too small for your doll. Even fractions of an inch will be too tight. I made the dress very form fitting. I like to make the cuffs of the sleeve a contrasting color. You could even make the bodice pieces a different fabric. The skirt pattern piece is missing a tiny little corner. It's just barely too large for a letter size piece of paper. Your printout should take up the entire sheet of paper. I taped on the tiny piece that was missing. Here's what all of your pattern pieces look like: To start off, I first sewed the shoulders, with the fabric right sides together. I try to do 1/4 inch seam on most of this dress. The clothes are so tiny that when you do anything larger, you lose part of the dress. You want to do a small hem on the neckline. Before you sew your cuffs onto the sleeves, you first need to iron them in half lengthwise. Next pin them onto the sleeves with all the unfinished edges together. The cuffs should be a little bit longer than your sleeves. Trim off the excess. I like to use the zigzag stitch to close my seams and keep them from fraying too much. I iron the seam toward the sleeve. Then I do a quick gathering stitch on each sleeve. Pin your sleeves on the arm holes, and then stitch them with a 1/4 inch seam. You really need these sleeves on tight! The dress is so tight, that you'll be tugging quite a bit on the arm holes to get the dress on. Now we sew the armpit. On this seam I try to keep it very small, and I reinforce it with a zigzag stitch. If you do an entire 1/4 inch, you will have trouble getting the dress over the doll's body. You need to hem the back bodice pieces. This time I do a double fold for the hem, but still keep it small. You need as much as you can get to get the dress on the doll. Now that the bodice piece is finished, you need to work on the skirt. I used a 1/4 inch seam here. Once you're finished you can flip the skirt to the right sides showing. This really is a very simple dress. We're almost done! To attach the bodice and skirt, I placed the skirt in through the neck hole. You need to line up the seam you just sewed on the skirt, with the back bodice pieces. I first pinned the back closed then I pinned it to the skirt. This part is kind of tricky to sew as the opening is not very large. The pieces should be the same size. I noticed when my daughter did the sewing; the skirt was a little bit too large. You can take in a little on the waist, but I would try to make your seams smaller on the bodice instead. (The parts that you hemmed on the back bodice pieces or on the armpits) Again if it's too small, it won't fit over the doll's body. This dress is very snug! You're almost done! Depending on how long you want the dress, you need to do the skirt hem. I did a double fold about 1/4 of an inch, 1/2 inch total. The only thing left is to decide how you want the dress to close. You could sew snaps on, or use Velcro. My sewing machine sews buttons on really easy, so I opted for one button at the top. I love how the dress turned out! I think the part I especially enjoyed was how easy it was to make. I've made my daughter some complicated doll clothes in the past that take me all day long to make. This one only takes about 1 hour to put together. (Two hours if you're like my daughter and new to sewing) Simple, but beautiful. You gotta love that! **Recently Added** American Girl Coloring Pages Felicity Kirsten Samanth Kit Molly
I was in the mood to up-cycle some old clothes, and sweaters have so many possibilities. In my pile of too worn out, too small, too dated clothes, I found my husband's sweater that has shrunk. It was an XL, it looks more like a large now. The sleeves are perfect for making 18" doll clothes (American Girl). So, here's what you've been waiting for... the Sleeve Sweater Dress tutorial... Materials and Tools: A sweater: Mens large or bigger or a Woman's equivelant size A doll for fitting (This is designed for an 18" American doll) Scissors Pinking Shears (optional) Snap Sharpie Marker Thread Sewing Machine Ruler Pins Optional Materials (see Accessorize) Cutting: First measure and cut about 12" up from the bottom of the sleeve (this will be the body of the dress). Next measure about 6" up from the remaining sleeve and cut again (the arms of the dress). None of these measurements are real exact for 2 reasons, 1) you're dealing with sweaters that stretch, and 2) dolls will vary in size. Feel free to trim during this process to make a better fit for your doll. Take your sleeve piece and slip it on your doll's arm, slide the fabric all the way to one side against the existing seam (see picture below). Pin the sleeve according to what shape and fit you want. I left a slight "bell" at the end of the sleeves on my dress. Once pinned, take the sleeve off, draw with a Sharpie the general shape of the sleeve. With the fabric still pinned together, cut along your line. Take your newly cut piece (still folded), flip it over, and use it as a pattern on the other existing seam. Trace, and cut. Try it On... On the doll of course... position the dress piece where you want it to rest, folding the top down to fold under her arms (see picture below). Mark (I used a sharpie) on the fold where and what size the arm holes need to be. This doesn't have to be exact since your sleeves can stretch to some degree to accommodate a larger hole. While the dress is still on her, pin the back to fit, sort of a dart, but instead of sewing up the triangle, you'll be cutting instead (I used pinking shears). Sew: Right sides together, sew the long end of the sleeve (see picture below). I used a zig zag stitch as well as a top stitch. You'll probably need a lot of reinforcement because of the nature of the fabric. With the body of the dress inside out, slip the sleeve through the hole with the right sides out. Pin the sleeve around the hole. Pin the top and bottom of the hole first and stretch the rest of the fabric to meet the sides (see picture below). Zig zag and top stitch around, attaching the sleeve. This can be tricky, so take your time and make sure you're not sewing layers together that don't belong. You may finish your rough edges with hems, zig zag stitches, or even pinking shears . I chose to leave mine raw... my preference. Assemble: Where you've cut a slit in the back of the dress, attach snaps. I created a cowl neckline in front by hand stitching a few stitches to secure the shape of the fold. There is a lot of fabric, so you can shape your neckline however you'd like. Accessorize: Side ponytail... optional, but encouraged. You should have a small scrap piece from the center of the sleeve, great for making embellishments for your dress (possibly a belt or tie). I used a scrap piece of leather and a metal rectangle ring for the belt. I sewed one end and used sticky "hook and loop" at the other.You have only used one sleeve, you have the rest of the sweater still to up-cycle, a matching beanie hat, headband, leg warmers or fingerless gloves would finish the look nicely. Good luck! In the comments, We'd love to see your finished sweater dresses, please post links! Please join our flickr group and upload pictures of your Sweater Dress or any other Finding Pins and Needles projects. I'd love to see them! Pin It A thanks to CraftGossip.com for showcasing this post!
Free crochet doll pattern
